
Class Ek^di 
Book. -llS 'E.. 



A N E \V 



COMPREHENSIVE 
O A Z E T T E E R OF V I M C I N I A, 

AND THE 

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA: 

CONTAINTNG 

A COPIOUS COLLECTION 

OP 

GEOfiPAPjnrAL, STATISTICAL, F OLiTJCAL, COMMEUCIAL, RELIOIO0S, MOKAt, AND MISCELLANEOUS 
INFORMATION, COLLECTSD AND COMPILED FROAI THE MDti'f RESPECTABLE, 
AND CIIlfeFLY Fkoyi OllfGINAL SO'^HCES : "** 



BY JOSEPH MARTIN, 

TO WDKjH is .ilM-'ED 

A HISTORY OF T 1 R ii 1 N f A 

I'ROM ITS FIRST SETT LEIMKN'r T' * 'i mc YEAR IT:'.!: 
WITia .»> vDSTRACTor TUK r lil.VC I V.VJ. ):\ L ..> io . v .::1THAT PLiUOO fO THE 

INDEPENDENCE OF VIRGINIA, 

WTtlTiEN KAl'FV-^-LV FOR THE WOKK 

r.Y A CIT1?.KN 0¥i' viux;f?^:iA 

:._„. \ 

i HaRL''TTESYILT.E : 

a F, D B V y a ?; r. p h ?r a p t i > . 

LEY & TOMPKlXf^ PRINTERS. 



Entered according to Act of Congress m the year 1835, 

By JOSEPH MARTIN, 

hi the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Virgilriai: 



o^ 



TO 



THE MEMBERS 



OF THE 



VIRGINIA HISTORICAL AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY 



GENTtfMEN, 



Excuse the liberty I take in asking the protection of 
your name, for a work which I am compelled to throw 
upan the world under the most inauspicious circumstan- 
ces. You seem to constitute the most appropriate body, 
to which I can look for aid in perfecting the great work 
which I have undertaken, and of which this imperfect es- 
say constitutes the first fruit. To render a work of this 
description a perfect picture of the moral and political 
condition of a state, and a faithful record of its progress to 
its present condition, the efforts of no single individual 
can be adequate ; but the united and persevering exertion 
of a number of gentlemen associated for the express pur- 



4 DEDICATION. 

pose of investigating and developing the resources of the 
state, and finding and preserving the records of its histo- 
ry, are absolutely necessary. I now venture to call your 
attention to the first work which has ever appeared since 
the publication of Mr. Jefferson's notes, which professed 
to embrace all which could be ascertained of the present 
situation of Virginia, and some investigation of its past 
history. That materials for a much more copious detail 
of both subjects exists, no one can doubt, but with the 
hope that the information here collected may not be alto- 
gether useless, I venture to ask the protection of your 
countenance, 

And remain, gentlemen. 

With the greatest respect. 
Your most obedient 

And most humble Servant, 

JOSEPH MARTIN. 



PREFACE. 



We are well aware that it is considered by critics 
to be an act of unpardonable impertinence to obtrude an 
imperfect work upon the notice of the public, and then 
apologize for its imperfections. But we beg leave to as- 
sure their cynical Lordships that this is no meat for them, 
and of course they need not whet their beaks at our an- 
nouncement of its imperfections. Our apology is not 
made to deprecate their wrath, but in deference to a gen- 
erous public, which will be thankful to the enterprize 
which gives it a mass of information which was not pos- 
sessed before, and not cavil because every fact is not given 
which exists, or those which are given are not in the very 
best form in which they could have been presented. 

The publisher of this work lays claim to no literary at- 
tainment whatever: he only claims the merit due to bold- 
ness in enterprize and unconquerable perseverance in 
execution. He has been upwards of two years col- 
lecting the materials for this work, from individuals re- 
siding in every quarter of the state, expending much 
money in the acquisition of his matter, at a time when he 
was scarcely able to support his family. But this method 
of collecting matter, although it produced considerable 
delay, ensured the most recent and authentic informa- 
tion which could be procured. The almost innumerable 
contributions when received had to be examined and ar- 
ranged, and such parts as were thought either useful or in- 
teresting, culled from the mass of unnecessary matter 
which sometimes encumbered the communications. — 
When this was done, and the publisher thought he had 
obtained such an amount of information as would be highly 
useful, although it would not form a perfect Gazetteer of 



6 PREFACE. 

Virginia, he resolved to publish and rely upon subse^ 
quent editions to make up the deficiencies^ But here a 
new difficulty occurred: — without credit and without capi- 
tal, it seemed impossible to find an individual to print, or 
one to edit the book. 

The huge mass of undigested manuscript was presented 
to several literary gentlemen, who shrunk from the task 
of arranging so voluminous a collection ot ill-written man- 
uscript, upon the contingency of being paid by the safe 
of the work. At length, however, a young man who had 
no experience in such matters was induced to undertake 
it, but his occasional absence and necessary attention to 
other business, added to a most illegible chirography 
caused many errors of the press which it was out of his 
power to correct. The printers also were new in tlifeir 
business, and not prepared for conducting it with that at- 
tention to neatness and accuracy which was desirable. 
But although there are many glaring typographical er- 
rors, which the editor could not correct, because he did 
not see the proof sheets, it is believed that very few of 
them effect the sense, and still fewer falsify statements of 
fact. . -^'^ 

The publisher has at length struggled through diificul-^ 
ties, which often seemed insuperable to less persevering 
men, and now presents the \rork to the public, if not a» 
perfect as it might be, yet certainly as perfect as he could 
at this time make it. ;-»)«* 

The publisher feels it his duty to render the most^ 
grateful acknowledgments to the many individuals wiio- 
have rendered him assistance in the collection of mate-^ 
rials; and begs leave to mention the names of a few lite- 
rary gentlemen to whose kindness he is under especial 
obligation, — among these are Messrs. James E. Heath (if 
Richmond, Lewis Summers of Kanawha, Lucien Minw of 
Louisa, J. R. W. Dunbar of Winchester, Thomas S. Plea- 
sants of Goochland, W. G. Minor of Caroline, J. R. FItz- 
hugh of Stafford, R. L. Cook of Augusta, Archibald Stu- 
art of Patrick, Linn Banks, of Madison, William Shultice 
of Mathews, A. Sparks of Southampton, F. Mallory of 
Norfolk, H. L. Hopkins of Powhatan, J. Minor of Spott- 
sylvania, J. H. Lee of Orange, Wm Green of Culpeper, 



PREFACE. ? 

Wj»> a. Harris of Page, R. B. Semple of King & Queen, 
Yeardley Taylor, of Loudoun, Isaac Flesher of Jackson, 
Wm. Burk of Monroe, S. Philips of Bedford, J. D. Mc- 
GiUof Middlesex, N. M. Taliaferro of Franklin, G. W. 
G. Browne of Wythe, J. J. Williams of Frederick 
Wm. J. Williams of Charlotte, Joseph Jenney of Prince 
William, James P. Carrell of Russell, B. F. Dabney of 
King William, Joseph Duff of Lee, James Garland of 
kelson, Wm. Wilson of Bath, and Edgar Snowden of 
Alexandria. Many more have sent in contributions well 
worthy of special notice, who have been perhaps as libe- 
ral as these gentlemen in the extent of their communica- 
tions, and the trouble they seem to have taken, but it 
woulid be difficult to know where to stop, if he was to 
pubiisTi the names of all to whom he is under obliga- 
litm& Such portions of the Gazetteer as are not original 
have been compiled from the Encyclopoedia Americana, 
the Gazetteer of the Fnited States, Elliott's District of 
Goluinbia, or Official Documents. 

Apology is due for publishing the hasty compositioii 
l¥:liich is called rather from its length than its character, a 
History of Virginia. The publisher promised in his pros- 
pectus between six and seven hundred pages, and all who 
^w his manuscript volumes supposed they would, unless 
very extensively curtailed overrun a thousand, but when 
the matter came to be edited and printed, it did not hold 
<m^t as well as was supposed. This unfortunately could 
not be ascertained until the Gazetteer was through the 
press,-and then it was necessary to fill it up with a more 
extensive, instead of the concise, history which had been 
promised. 

/phe time was of course too limited, being written as 
fest as three active compositors could print, for the author 
to have an opportunity to pay any attention whatever to 
his languge or style, or to digress upon the many topics 
which so invitingly offered, or turn his eyes for a mcnient 
to other colonies or countries. He was compelled to pro- 
ceed with the single isolated narrative of Virginia history, 
and he trusts that the subject itself is so interesting that it 
will be read even in his hasty sketch. Were he and his 
^orknot both infinitely too humble for criticism to hawk 



« PREFACE 

at, lie would expect to be torn in pieces for the audacity 
of dignifying the hasty composition of little more than a 
fortnight, with the noble name of history) but he feels per- 
fectly secure in his insignificance, and if the insect swarm 
of little critics should be inclined to inflict their venomous 
stings upon him, he can throw around himself a shield, 
which even their utmost fury cannot penetrate, and that 
is the consciousness that his hasty sketch was not written 
with the expectation of meeting with approbation as a 
philosophic treatise upon the history of Virginia, but 
merely with the hope of presenting a succinct and faithful 
narrative of the early events of the colony. This he has 
labored assiduously to effect, consulting every authority 
which it was possible to examine in so short a time ; and if 
on any subject, all is not said which might have been said, 
or all which is said is not true, he at least feels sure that 
he has respectable authority for every word he utters, and 
that he believes all to be true. 

All the circumstances of the case, we doubt not with a 
liberal public, will ensure this first attempt to describe 
V^irginia as it exists at the present day, a favorable recep- 
tion ; and it will respect the disposition and the enter- 
prize which has given them so much, rather than blame 
the stern poverty which would not allow the publisher to 
wait longer, without receiving some emolument. With 
the proceeds of this edition he expects to be able to sub- 
sist, until he can prepare a work more worthy of the nable 
state whose moral and physical attributes he delineates.- 

It will be perceived that a new plan has been adopted 
in the arrangement. Instead of giving a contniuous al- 
phabetical list of subjects and places, from the beginning 
to the end of the volume, by which means much repeti- 
tion must occur, and frequent references have to be made 
in order to obtain an account of an}'^ county or section of 
country ; the work is divided into three parts, first a gene- 
ral description of the moral and physical character of the 
whole state is given, and then of the two great portions, 
eastern and western Virginia separately, and under these 
latter heads a general description is given of each county, 
in alphabetical order, and under each county an alphabeti- 
cal list of the most remarkable places it contains ; a gene- 



PREFACE. 9 

ral alphabetical index at the end completes the system. 
The object of this arrangement was to present to the mind 
each separate portion of country at once, in a connected 
view, so that the reader at a distance might form as good 
an idea of the state of improvement in each county, as if he 
were on the spot, which it v/ould be impossible to do, if 
each little place w^as scattered through the book in a gen- 
eral alphabetical arrangement, whilst it was thought that 
the general index would make it as convenient for pur- 
poses of mere reference as it would be under the old sys- 
tem. 

The same wish to present a connected view, and the dif- 
ferent characteristics which distinguish Eastern and Wes- 
tern Virginia, produced the division of the state into these 
two portions. 

It is unnecessary to enlarge upon the necessity which 
existed for such a Avork, it has been felt b}^ every traveller, 
man of business, and literary man in the community ; and 
the information here collected, existed for the most part 
only in the minds of those who have contributed it. The 
desideratum is not yet how'ever fully supplied, as no indi- 
vidual has been found willing to contribute the informa- 
tion, which was wanting with regard to many of the coi.n- 
ties; but this it is hoped w-^y be obtained in time for 
another edition. With a hope that what is already accom- 
plished will meet the expectations and approbation of 
t%ose who have so liberally patronized him, the v/ork is 
for the present dismissed- 

BY THE PUBLISHER. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Dedication, ....... 3 

Preface, ....... 5 

List of tables, - - - - - - 13 

List of errata, - - - - - - - 14 

Table of abbreviations, - - - - - 15 

General Description of Virginia, - - - - 16 

Situation, boundaries, and extent, - - - - ib. 

Face of the country, ----- ib. 

Geology and Mineralogy, • - - - 23 

Mineral waters, ------ 24 

Scenery and Natural Curiosities, - - - - 25 

Mountains, ------ 27 

Bays, harbors, rivers, swamps, - - - - 36 

Climate, .--.-.. 57 
Political and moral condition, 

Population, - • - ° . " ' ^^ 

Government and laws, ... - - 69 

Civil list, .... = . 72 

Laws, .-.-■- f 5 

Religion, - ^ - - 76 

Education, ...... .77 

Military organization, arms, &c. - - - - 83 

Lunatic hospitals; ■ - - • - - 85 

Penitentiary, ...... jb. 

Internal Improvement, . • ■ - ", ^^ 

Manufactures, ...... 99 

Agriculture, ...... ib. 

Commerce, - - - - - - 100 

Fiscal concerns, - - - - - - 101 

Revenue, - - - • - - - 103 

Banks, - - - - - - • 104 

Remarks on arrangement pursued in description of counties, - HO 

Eastern Virginia, - - - - - - 1 1 1 

Western Virginia — Introduction, .... 297 

" " General Description, - - - 299 

Virginia House of Delegates, ..... 469 

Senate, ...... 470 

District of Columbia, 471 

Establishment, situation, boundaries, and extent, - - ib 

Soil, 473 

Geology and Mineralogy, .... 474 

Climate »..•--- 476 



CONTENTS 



n 



District of Columbia. 

Aborigines, 

Population, 

Government, 

Alexandria, 

Fisheries on tlie Potomac, 

Water Fowl on the Potomac, 

Washington City, 
Congressional Districts of Virginia, 
Electoral Districts, 
Virginia Election Laws, 

" Ratification of U. S. Constitution, 

Declaration of Rights (June 12, 1776,) 
Table exhibiting the population, &.c. &c. &c. - 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA, 



PACE. 

476 

ib. 

lb. 

477 

480 

482 

496 

612 

513 

515 

523 

ib. 

528-9 



CHAPTER I 
Introduction, Progress of Commerce, Roanoke Settlements. 

Merit of discovering America, — Advancement of Commerce by the 
Crusades — in the Italian cities — -in Spain — in Portugal, — Dis- 
covery of America. — England, — Want of Com.merce in early times, 
— Voyages of the Cabots, — Progress of English discovery, — Fro- 
bisher — Gilbert — Raleigh, — Failure of the Roanoke settlements, 531 

CHAPTER II. 
Settlement at James Town, — Suffering." of the Colonists, — 
Adventures of Smith. — New Company raised — its charter, — 
James Town, -^Machinations against Smith — Difficulties of the 
colony, — Smith taken prisoner — his release. — Arrival of Newport, 
— Discovery of earth believed to L. ^uld, — Departure of Newport, 
— Survey of the Chesapeake and its waters by Smith, — Smith made 
President, — Second arrival of Newport, — Judicious conduct of 
Smith, — New Charter, — New arrival of emigrants, — Badness of 
the selection, — New settlements, — Accident to Smith — his departure, 
— his character, - - - 54G 

CHAPTER III. 
Progress of the Colony, — Massacre of 1662, — Dissolution 
OF tije London Company. — State of the colony at Smith's depar- 
ture, — its conduct and consequent sufferings, — Arrival of Gates — 
of Lord De La Ware, — ^his departure. — Arrival of Dale, — Martial 
law, — Gates governor, — -Grants of land to individuals, — New char- 
ter, — Marriage of Pocahontas, — Friendly relations with the In- 
dians, — Subjection of Port Royal and Manhattan, — Cultivation of 
Tobacco, — Tenure of lands, — Tyranny of Argall, — Propriety of 
reform in the government. — Yeardley governor, — First colonial 
assembly in 1619. — Introduction of women, — Introduction of ne- 
groes by the Dutch in 1620. — Constitution brought over by Sir 
Francis Wyatt. — Relations with the Indians, — Massacre of the 22d 
of March, 1662, — its consequences, — Struggles between the king 
and the company, — Commissioners sent to Virginia, — Firmness of 
the Virginians, — Dissolution of the company, - - 558 



\-4 CONTENTS 

PAGE. 
CHAPTER IV. 
Progres.s of the Colony from the Dissolution of the Lon- 
don Company, to the breaking out of Bacon s Rebellion 
IN 1675. — Accession of Charles I. — Tobacco trade, — Yeardley 
governor, — his commission favorable — his death and character. — 
Lord Baltimore's reception, — State of religion, — legislation upon the 
subject, — Invitation to the Puritans to settle on ^Delaware Bay. — 
Harvey governor, — Error with regard to his early administration, — 
Dismemberment of the colonj'-, — »Grant of Carolina and Maryland, 
— probable cause of discontent. — Harvey deposed — restored, — 
Wyatt governor, — Acts of the Legislature improperly censured, — 
Berkeley governor, — Indian relations, — Opechanranough prisoner, 
— his death, — Change of government in England, — Fleet and army 
sent to reduce Virginia, — Preparation for defence by Berkeley, — 
Agreement entered into between the colony and the commissioners 
of the commonwealth, — Indian hostilities, — Matthews elected gover- 
nor, — Difficulties between the governor and the legislature, — adjust- 
ed, — State of the colony and its trade, — Commissioners sent to 
England, — The Restoration, — General legislation, - - 576 

CHAPTER V. 

Bacon's Rebellion,- — Hostile Designs of the French. — Indif- '. 
ference to change in England,-T- Navigation act, — Convicts, — Con- ~ 
spiracy detected, — Discontents, — Cessation from tojjacco planting 
for one year, — Royal grants, — Virginia's remonstrance, — Success 
of deputies, — Indian hostilities, — Army raised and disbanded by 
governor, — People petition for an army, — elect Bacon commander, 
— he marches without commission and defeats Indians, — pursued 
by governor, who retreats on bearing of rising at James Tovvn, — 
Governor makes concessions, — Bacon prisoner, — is pardoned. — 
People force commission from governor, — Bacon marches id meet 
Indians, — hears he is declared a rebel by Berkeley, — marches to 
meet him, — he flees to Accomac, — Convention called and free go- 
vernment established. — Bacon defeats the Indians, — Berkeley ob- 
tains possession of the shipping, and occupies James Town, — is 
beseiged by Ba:;on, and driv^viJ out,— Jamestown burnt. — Death of 
Bacon, — character of his enterprise. — Predatory warfare, — treaty 
between governor and his opponents, — Cruelty of Berkeley, — 
King's coramissioners, — Departure of Berkeley and his death. — 
Acts of Assem.bly passed during Bacon's influence. — Conduct of 
king's commissioners, — Culpeper governor, — Discontents, — Con- 
duct of Beverly. — Howard governor. — General conduct of Vir- 
ginia and progress of affairs. — Plan of De Callier for dividing the 
British colonies, ..--.- 599 

Sketch of Virginia history from the beginning of the French war to 
■'i ' iiinin';- of tlio Revolution, ... ^313 



I.IST OF TABLES, 



Jefferson's and Watson's Meteorological observations, 

Population, . - . . 

School Commissioners' Reports, 

Militia and Arms, 

Convicts, .... 

Improvements contemplated, 

" Fund, 

Receipts into Treasury, 
Disbursements from Treasury, 
Revenue from each county, 
Banks, . . . . 

Students of the University, 
Tobacco trade of Lynchburg, Petersburg, and Richmond, 
Louisa population, . . . . . 

Population of District of Columbia, 

" of Alexandria, .... 

'• of Georgetown, .... 

" of Washington, .... 

Costs of Federal Buildings, .... 
Table of Population, &c. «Stc. of each State, 
Table of Time of Election, &c. &c. 



61 

67 

78 

83 

86 

95 

96 

101 

102 

103 

104 

126 

140 

219 

476 

479 

494 

499 

508 

528 

529 



ERRATA. 



***In this list only such errata are collected as effect the sense. 
Page 69. 12 lines from the bottom for "erected" read "created." 

<' 67 and 68, the total population of Virginia is given as 1,211,375 instead of 
1,211,405,— the error arises from an error in the column of Female Slaves, 
p. 68. 

" 139. Top line, for "dram" read "dam." 

" 151. Five lines from the top dele "Harvey's Store," repeated second time. 

" 154. Top line, for "1778" read "1748." 

" 160. Right hand column, 11th line from bottom, for "depulated" read "depopu- 
lated." 

" 176. Left hand column, dele "Laurel Spring," which belones to Albemarle, see 
p. 114. 

" 215. Upperville is in the wrong place — transpose to Fauquier p. 174. 

" 234. Right hand column, Lombardy Grove, distance from R. given twice — the 
last one is correct. 

•' 248. Right hand column, 10 lines from top, for "1,338" read "338." 

" 275. " " 14 " for "B^ioad" read "Broad." 

" 284. Left hand column, 12 " for "Thomburg" read "Thorns- 

burg." 

" 339. Four lines from bottom, for "Logan" read "Fayette." 

" 355. Left hand column, 18 lines from top, for "Ut lund inter minores sideres," 

read, " inter omnes 

velut inter igncs 

Luna minores." 

" 135. Left hand column, line 23d from top, for "August and September" read 
"April and August." 

" 276. First line on top, for "1831" read "1833." 

" " Fifth line from top, for "Shenandoah" read "Page." 



ABBREVIATIONS. 



P.O. 
p. V. 
P T. 
C. H. 

ms. 
Distance from 

Co. 



•R." 



Post-Office. 
Post Village. 
Post Town. 
Court House, 
miles. 

Washington. 
Richmond. 
County. 



Mntn. - - - Mountains. 

Long. - - - Longitude. 

Lat. ... Latitude. 

Sq. ms. - - - Square miles. 

The rest, such as N. E. W. S. &c. for the 
pouit.'i of the compass are suificiently mani- 
fest. 



GAZETTEER OF VIRGINIA. 



PRELIMINARIES. 



SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT. 

Virginia was one of the original thirteen, and is now one of the twenty 
four United States of North America; it lies between 36° 31', and 40° 39' 
north latitude; and 6° 35' west, and 1° 48' east longitude from Washing- 
ton city: it is bounded on the north and northeast by Pennsylvania and Ma- 
ryland, cast by the Atlantic ocean, south by North Carolina and Tennessee, 
and west by Kentucky and Ohio; its mean length from east to west is 355 
miles, its mean breadth 185 miles, and its horizontal area 65,624 square 
miles. The Atlantic bounds Virginia, from the extreme soiUh-eastern an- 
gle of Maryland, to the extreme north-eastern angle of North Carolina, a 
distance of 112 miles; North Carolina bounds it on the south, from the At- 
lantic west to the Iron Mountains, 340 miles; from this point the boundary 
runs along the Iron Mountains in a north-easterly direction, to the north- 
east angle of Tennessee, four miles; Tennessee then forms a border to the 
Cumberland mountains 110 miles; then Kentucky, along the Cumberland 
mountains to the Tug Fork of Sandy river, 1 10 miles; thence the boundary 
runs down this stream to the Ohio 70 miles.. The boundary follows the 
Ohio from the mouth of Tug Fork of Sandy, to the point at which it emerges 
from Pennsylvania, 355 miles; from this it runs south in common with the 
western border of Pennsylvania, 64 miles, thence east along its southern 
border to the north-western angle of Maryland, 58 miles; from this, south 
to the head of the north branch of the Potomac 36 miles; and down the 
Potomac to its mouth, 320 miles ; it then crosses the Chesapeake Bay, and 
runs east, along the southern boundary of Maryland to the Atlantic, 60 
miles — presenting an entire outline of 1,635 miles. 

Face of the Country — Natural and Political Sections. — Virginia 
exceeds all of her sister States in territorial extent, and is perhaps the most 
strongly marked in her ph3"sical features. Like Maryland and North Caro- 
lina, she has her sea and alluvial section, below the head of tide-water; her 
middle and hilly section; and her central or mountainous section; but in 
Virginia a fourth section must be added, which may be called the western 
or Ohio section, its \X"aters emptying into that stream. 

These four sections are so distinctly marked in their features as to be re- 
cognized in the fundamental law of the State, and must ever have important 
political and moral eiTects. Adopting the limits indicated in the new con- 
stitution, these four sections contain as follows, viz. First — The section 
from the sea coast to the head of tide-water, thirty-six counties, and three 
towns, to wit : Accomac, Caroline, Chesterfield, Charles City, Essex, Eli- 
zabeth City, Fairfax, Greensville, Gloucester, Hanover, Henrico, Isle of 
Wight, James Citj', King and Queen, King William, King George, Lan- 
caster, Mathews, Middlesex, Nansemond, New Kent, Northumberland, 
Northampton, Norfolk, Princess Anne, Prince George, Prince William, 
Richmond, Southampton, Spottsylvania, Stafford, Surry, Sussex, Warwick, 



18 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Westmoreland, York, and the city of Richmond, borough of Norfolk, and 
town of Petersburg; Avhich are all together entitled to 36 Representatives 
in the House of Delegates. Second. — The territory stretching from the 
head of tide-water to the Blue Ridge, contains 30 counties, to wit : Albe- 
marle, Amelia, Amherst, Bedford, Buckingham, Brunswick, Campbell, 
Charlotte, Cumberland, Culpeper, Dinwiddie, Fauquier, Fluvanna, Frank- 
lin, Goochland, Henry, Halifax, Loudon, Louisa, Lunenburg, Madison, 
Mecklenburg, Nelson, Nottoway, Orange, Patrick, Pittsylvania, Powhatan, 
Prince Edward, and Rappahannock, which together have 42 Representatives 
in the House of Delegates. Third — The Valley section contains 15 coun- 
ties, to wit : Augusta, Alleghany, Bath, Berkley, Bottetourt, Frederick, 
Hampshire, Hardy, Jefferson, Morgan, Page, Pendleton, Rockingham, 
Rockbridge, and Shenandoah; which together elect 25 members of the House 
of Delegates. Fourth — The Trans-Alleghany, or western section, contains 
30 counties, to wit : Brooke, Cabell, Fayette, Floyd, Grayson, Greenbrier, 
Giles, Harrison, Jackson, Montgomery, Monongalia, Kanawha, Lee, Lewis, 
Logan, Mason, Monroe, Nicholas, Ohio, Pocahontas, Preston, Randolph, 
Russell, Scott, Smyth, Tazewell, Tyler, Washington, Wood, and Wj-the; 
which together elect 3 1 delegates to the House of Delegates. 

Section First. — There is little of Virginia actually level, this term being 
strictly applicable only to the counties of Accomac and Northampton, on 
the eastern side of the Chesapeake, and to Princess Anne, Norfolk, and 
Nanscmond on the west; containing an aggregate area of only about 2200 
square miles, or less than the thirty-first part of the State. 

The shores of the peninsula east of the Chesapeake, Avhich constitute the 
two counties of Accomac and Northampton, are low and flat, about GO 
miles long, and from 10 to 15 wide, and bounded towards the sea by a 
string of low sandy islets. The waters of the Chesapeake enter the sea 
between cape Charles and cape Henry, forming a straight of fifteen miles 
in width. Norfolk, one of the principle ports of Virginia, has a good har- 
bour in the southern part of the bay, near the mouth of James River. 
The embovichure of the James forms a speacious haven, called Hampton 
Roads, in which all the navies in the world might ride; this haven Avas 
formerly open, but the strong fortifications, castle Calhoun, and fortress 
Monroe.on the opposite sides of the entrance would now probably render it im- 
practicable for an adverse fleet to enter. — [See Old Point Comfort — Eliza- 
beth city county.] 

Except in depth, extent, and position the Chesapeake does not differ 
essentially from Pamlico and Albemarle sounds on the south, or Delaware 
bay on the north. Virginia and Maryland occupy the centre of a physi- 
cal section, remarkable for its deep and wide rivers; and the tributaries of 
the Chesapeake seem in this respect to imitate their great reservoir. The 
Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, and Chester on the east; and the James, 
York, Rappahannock, Potomac, Patuxent, and Patapsco on the west, all 
widen into expansive bays before their final discharge. These minor 
bays gradually become less deep and wide, as they approach the head of 
tide water, but they retain the distinctive character of bays as far as the 
tide penetrates. 

West of the Chesapeake, the country gradually rises into hill and dale, 
though much marshy and flat land skirts the wide mouths of the rivers, 
and the minor bays which they form. The soil of the section under re- 
view is strictly aili^vial, for though the face of the country, on approaching 



OF VIRGINIA. 19 

the primitive ledge which terminates the tides, is diversified by waving 
hills, yet its structure is of the character styled by geologists ancicyit allu- 
vial. The greater part of the substrata are composed of sand and pebbles; 
large masses of rock in their original position are rare, except at great 
depths. 

Section Second. — The Blue Ridge traverses Virginia for 260 miles, in 
a direction from S. W. to N. E. and except where passed by the James 
and Roanoke rivers it is a continuous range. It constitutes a county limit 
throughout its progress in this state. Falling from this finely delineated 
chain, is an inclined plain, containing 15,386 square miles, terminated by 
the head of the Atlantic tides. This beautiful section, if we merely regard 
the fall of water, has a declivity of about 300 to 500 feet; but the fall of 
water gives a very inadequate idea of the slope in the arable soil, which 
towards the Blue Ridge rises in many places, to at least 1000 feet, in the 
spaces between the rivers. The face of nature though exhibiting little of 
grandeur, is extremely rich and pleasing m the endless variety of hill, 
valley and river scenery. In the higher part, besides the magnificent back 
ground of the Blue Ridge, the more distinct ranges of the Alleghany 
may be seen towering above it, from the detached ranges in its neigh- 
borhood; all of which tells that the solid structure of the section is Appa- 
lachian, and that the outer ridges of that system influence the course of 
the waters, as may be seen in the Roanoke, James, Rappahannock and 
Potomac rivers. 

This section is as healthy as any portion of the Avorld, the water is ex- 
cellent and plentiful throughout; the lands fertile, producing in abundance 
all the staples of the state; easily recovered when exhausted, and always 
susceptible of high improvement by judicious management; the farms 
are smaller than in the tide water district; the people are industrious and 
intelligent, and from James river to the Potomac perhaps are the best 
farmers in the state. Mr. Jefferson pronounced that portion of this section 
which lies under the south west range of mountains, to be the garden 
spot of America ; and General Washington, when written to by Sir John 
Sinclair to recommend to him some spot for a residence in America, after 
passing in review the whole union, pronounced a residence some where 
on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, between the Potomac and the 
James, to combine most advantages, and be the most desirable. 

Section Third. — The great valley section is in some respects the most 
remarkable in Virginia ; it extends from the Iron mountains, at the N. E. 
angle of Tennessee, to the northern bend of the Potomac, at Hancocks- 
town; its mean length is near 300 miles; the mean distance between the 
Blue Ridge and Alleghany about 43. This is a continuation of the Kit- 
tatinny valley of Pennsylvania, and is a true table-land or mountain pla- 
teau. The rise to this plateau is abrupt, the difference of the mean eleva- 
tion on the east, and west sides of the Blue Ridge being from 200 to 300 
feet. The elevation of Lynchburg is only 500 feet, whilst that of Staunton, 
near the sources of the Shenandoah is 1,152 feet; Lexington, in Rock- 
bridge county, 902 feet; Salem, on the Roanoke, in Botetourt county, 
1,200 feet; and the Warm Springs, in Bath county, 1,782 feet; and the 
mean elevation of the farms throughout the section in all probability ex- 
ceeds 1000 feet. A stratum of limestone of varying breadth, runs nearly 
parallel Avith the Blue Ridge, on its western side, which continues to ac- 
company it in its course through Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Ncav Jer- 



20 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

sey- The surface of the great A'alley of Virginia is much broken and di- 
versified, but every where contains zones of highly productive soil ; it 
abounds, with few exceptions, with the purest and best water, and is so rich 
in scenery, as to afford an endless variety of beautiful landscape. With re- 
gard to declivity, the Valley presents some curious phenomena. The 
northern and nearly one half of the whole surface declines to the N. E., 
towards the Potomac, and is drained by the Shenandoah, Cacapon, and 
south branch of Potomac. 

South of the sources of the Potomac and Shenandoah, is a middle valley; 
which inclines to the east, and is drained by the James and Roanoke: the 
extreme southern part of the valley inclines to the north west ; and is 
drained by New river, and the great Kenawha. We thus perceive that 
this table land is partly inclined towards the Atlantic, and partly towards 
the Ohio; and that the inflected line which separates the sources of the 
James and Roanoke, which flow into the former, from those of the great 
Kenawha, flowing into the latter, — crosses the valley obliquely from the 
Blue Ridge to the Alleghany 

Section Fourth. — The extreme length of the Ohio section of Virginia, 
from the northern boundary of Tenessee, to the northern angle of Brooke 
county, is nearly 300 miles. The greatest breadth is iiearly along the gen- 
eral course of the great Kenawha, about 135 miles; but both extremes are 
narrow; the mean width is about 94 miles. The area 28,337 square 
miles. The surface is for the most part mountainous, and nearly every 
where broken. The chains of the Appalachian system stretch over it, in 
a course nearly parallel to that part of the Ohio which bounds Virginia. 
The soil is even more variable in quality than the surface is in elevation, 
every grade of sterility and fertility may be found. As the elevation of the 
Avater, at the junction of the Ohio and great Kenawha is 533 feet, and that 
point is only about 40 miles from the mouth of the great Sandy, the lowest 
point in western Virginia, we may regard all the surface of the Ohio sec- 
tion as rising above 500 feet. The elevation of Wheeling above the Ocean 
is 634 feet; and the Ohio, the base of this great inclined plane, and the re- 
cipient of the waters of western Virginia, rises upwards of 560 feet, nearly 
to a level with lake Erie. The dividing ridge of the waters of the Ohio 
and Atlantic, is the apex of the plain before us, and has its highest eleva- 
tion in the mountains, from which the sources of the James and Roanoke 
rise on one side, and those of the great Kenawha on the other. Under the 
heads of Giles, Pochahontas, and Monroe counties, which occupy the 
highest part of the plain we are surveying, it may be seen, that the mean 
elevation of the arable soil exceeds 1,600 feet. A similar, if not a higher, 
mean height might be assigned to the sources of the great Kanawha,lrom 
those of the Greenbrier to those of New river. From these elevated vallies 
the sources of the Ohio flow, like radii from a common centre. The dif- 
ferent branches of the Monongahela rise in Lewis and Jvandolph counties, 
and flowing north, through Harrison,, Monongalia, and Preston counties, 
enter Pennsylvania ; and uniting their waters, continue north, to meet those of 
the Alleghany, and form the Ohio, at Pittsburg. The Ohio from Pittsburg 
sweeps a curve flrst north westward, then westward for nearly 100 miles', 
in a course nearly parallel with the Monongahela, the two streams flowing 
in opposite directions. From the large curve of the Ohio below Pittsburg, 
to the influx of the little Kenawha, there is only a narrow inclined plane of 
about 30 miles width, between the Ohio, and the sources of creeks which 



OF VIRGINIA. 21 

flow eastwardly into the Monongahela. Down tlils plain, flow, Harmans, 
Cross, BufTalo, Wheeling, Fish, Fishing, Middle Island, and some other 
creeks of less note. Near the little Kcnawha the plain Avidens, and the de- 
clivity inclines from W. to N. W: this declination is also maintained in the 
rallies of the great Kenawha, and great Sandy rivers. 

The tributary waters of the extreme southern part of the Ohio section of 
Virginia, though drained into the same recipient, are borne from the eleva- 
ted plateau, between the sources of the great Kenawha and Tennessee; and 
before their discharge make the immense semicircular curve of the latter. 

The difference of level between high-water mark on the Ohio river, aird 
the elevation we have noticed, is about a mean of 850 feet: but this eleva- 
tion is only the first in a series of planes, which rise one above another, until 
a mean height of between 1800 and 2000 feet, is attained in central Virginia. 
If we assume latitude 38° 10' as the central latitude, it will at longitude 3° 
west of Washington city, correspond nearly with the greatest elevation, and 
estimating 400 feet as an equivalent to a degree of latitude, the counties 
along the mountainous section of Virginia will have a climate, similar to 
that in north latitude 43° on the Atlantic coast. 

If from the foregoing elements, we embrace the whole of Virginia, we 
have before us, a large section of the United States: extending over more 
than 4° of latitude, and 8f ° of longitude, differing in relative level upwards 
of 2000 feet, without estimating mountain peaks, or ridges. If we suppose 
the actually settled parts of the United States, to be 030,000 square miles, 
Virginia will embrace one ninth part. It is as we have seen traversed 
from S. W. to N. E. by the Appalachian system of movmtains in lateral 
chains; of these the Blue Ridge is the most distinctly defined, but is only 
one of six or seven chains that may be traced and identified across the state. 
One of these chains, though omitted in some maps and broken into frag- 
ments in others, is in nature little less obvious than the Blue Ridge; aird is 
distinct throughout its course in Virginia. This neglected Appalachian 
chain stretches at a distance, varying from 15 to 30 miles, southeastwardly 
from the Blue Ridge. It is known in New Jersey as Schooley's mountain, 
and though entirely apparent through Pennsylvania, it has received no dis- 
tinct appellation in that stale. In Maryland it is called the Parr Spring 
Ridge, and is rendered very conspicuous where it is traversed by the Poto- 
mac, by the fine conical peak called the Sugar Loaf In Virginia it 
traverses Loudon, Fauquier, Orange, Albemarle, Nelson, Amherst, Bed- 
ford, Franklin, and Henry counties. West of the Blue Ridge, the moun- 
tain chains are also very confusedly delineated on our maps, though they 
are far from being so in nature; even on Tanner's large map of the United 
• States, the continuous chains cease with the Alleghany, whilst in fact 
western Virginia is traversed by three distinct chains, west of this moun- 
tain; — indeed the whole state, from the head of tide-water to the Ohio, is 
formed of a series of mountain chains, and intervening vallies. This struc- 
ture is obvious to all who examine the map, with a knowledge of the influ- 
ence of the direction of the hills upon the inflection of the streams. Among 
the mountain chains however, the Blue Ridge must ever be the most impor- 
tant, physically and politically. This cliain stands distinct and de- 
tached from the rest, in a remarkable manner. Its highest points are the 
Peaks of Otter, in Botetourt county, which may be seen at a great distance ; 
one of them is remakable for its symmetry, being conical, and terminating in 
a limestone cube; the upper surface of which is scarcely sufficiently extensive 



22 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

to contain a dozen persons. It has been supposed that these beautiful peaks, 
are the highest points in the Appalachian system, S. W. of the Delaware, 
if computed from their base; but the White Top peaks of the Iron mountains, 
near the North Carolina line are now thought to be still more elevated. 

The diiferent portions of the state are strikingly distinguished from each 
other in their appearance. The tide-water or eastern section, is in general 
low, level, sandy, and unproductive, — in some parts exhibiting almost as de- 
solate appearance as the pine barrens of New Jersey. Above the falls of the 
rivers, the country presents a bolder and more picturesque outline, and the 
soil if not generally productive, is in most cases capable of improvement; 
the alluvial lands on river and creek bottoms of this section are very fine; 
those on James river will compare with any in the world lor fertility. The 
valley section contains a considerable portion of mountainous and sterile 
land; but no part of the commonwelth presents larger tracts of fertile and 
well cultivated soil, or better adapted to the cultivation of every species of 
grain. 

West of the Alleghany, a large portion of the country must for ever 
remain in its primitive forest; it is generally mountainous and broken, but 
interspersed with fertile vallies, well calculated to grazing, and raising 
stock, and occasionally presenting rich bodies of limestone. 

From the vast extent of this state and the variety of its surface, we should 
of course expect a great diversity of climate. In the Atlantic country, east 
of the mountains, the heat of summer is long and oppressive, the spring 
short and variable, and the winter extremely mild, — snow seldom lying 
more than a day after it has fallen. Droughts in summer and autumn are 
common, and the people are subject to autumnal fevers. On the mountains, 
the air is cool, and salubrious, and the inhabitants are tall and muscular, 
Avith robust forms, and healthy countenances; fires are used during five 
months in the year; the heat of summer during the day is considerable, but 
the nights are always cool. On the western side of the mountain the cli- 
mate is cooler by several degrees, than on the same parallel of latitude on 
the coast: the valley of the Ohio, is exceedingly hot in summer, while in 
winter, the river is sometimes frozen for two months at a time, so hard as 
to be passed on the ice ; the autumn is dry, temperate, and healthy, and the 
weather most delightful. 

From the facts which have been stated with regard to the variety of soil, 
and climate in Virginia; a corresponding variety in the staple productions 
will at once be suggested. Every vegetable, from cotton to wheat, and the 
fig to the apple, can be produced in abundance. 

When discovered and colonized by Europeans, the region noAv comprised 
in Virginia, Avas one continued dense, and vary partially broken forest. A 
few savage tribes were found along the tide-waters, but the interior Avas 
scarcely inhabited. It may be remarked that though the soil increases in fer- 
tility as we advance from the seaboard, yet density of population is in a near 
ratio to proximity to the place of original settlement, on James river If 
we make every just allowance for the space actually occupied by moun- 
tains, and other unproductive tracts, still there would remain at least 50,000 
square miles, capable of sustaining a mean distributive population, equal in 
number to that which occupies any of the best inhabited of its existing coun- 
ties, (for example, Henrico, including Richmond,) such a ratio, would give 
Virginia more than five millions of inhabitants, — a number far below the 
population she could support. 



OF VIRGINIA. 23 

The principal Towns are, Richmond, the seat of government, situated at 
the falls of James river, on a site or elevation perhaps not to be surpassed 
in beauty in the United States, having an extensive view of the river, and an 
open, well cultivated, and fertile country for many miles in extent; it con- 
tains 16,060 inhabitants: Norfolk, on Elizabeth river, which flows into Hamp- 
ton Roads, had in 1830, a population of 9,816; Petersburg and Fredericks- 
burg, at the falls of the Appomatox and Rappahannock, the first containing 
8,300 inhabitants, and the last 3,308: Lynchburg, on James river, 120 miles 
above the falls, contains 4,630 inhabitants: Wheeling, on the Ohio, though 
only the fourth town in size and population, containing 5,21 1 inhabitants, is 
perhaps the most flourishing town in the state. Besides these — Winches- 
ter, Shepperdstown, Martinsburg, Staunton, Lexington and Fincastle, in the 
valley; Charleston, Abingdon and Brooke in the trans-Alleghany section de- 
serve to be noticed — Williamsburg in the eastern section, and the ancient 
seat of government, is on the decline, but Charlottesville, near which the 
state University is located, has rapidly improved. 

The principal Rivers flowing into the Chesapeak bay, are, the Potomac, 
Rappahannock, York and James; all of Avhich are large and navigable. 
The Shenandoah traces its quiet course down the valley, at the base of the 
Blue Ridge, and unites with the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. The Roan- 
oke rises in the mountains, and passing into North Carolina, empties 
its waters into Albemarle sound. The Monongahela, and great Kena- 
wha are both tributaries of the Ohio. Besides these, numerous other 
streams intersect the country in every direction ; and render it inferior to few 
in facilities for transportation by water. The Chesapeake bay, one of the 
finest on the continent, extends 190 miles from its mjjuth, into the states of 
Virginia and Maryland ; it is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and generally 9 
fathoms deep. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — If we trace a line from the mouth of 
Potomac creek, through the Bowling Green and fork of the Pamunky, to 
Richmond, — thence through Petersburg and Hicksford, to the Roanoke 
near Weldon, — we shall embrace between it and the ocean, only tertiary, 
and alluvial formations. The soil contains oxides of iron, shells and marie, 
bones of sharks, whales, and other fish, carbonated wood, and other vegeta- 
ble remains. From this line to the Blue Ridge, the formation may be re- 
garded as essentially primitive; as most of the rocks are of that denomina- 
tion. In this space however, two belts of ti-ansition and secondary forma- 
tion have been found resting on the primitive rocks. One of these is the 
sand-stone and coal formation of the counties of Goochland, Powhatan, and 
Chesterfield; which is supposed to continue through the state, in a direction 
parallel to its mountains; the other, a narrow stratum of limestone, which 
has been found at the base of the South West mountains, at A'arious points 
between the Potomac and James, and which yields in several of its quaries 
beautiful mai'ble. In this primitive region, various valuable ores and pure 
metals have been discovered, among them iron ore in masses, and layers, — 
black lead, — copper, and gold. It is now well ascertained that a formation 
in which the latter metal is frequently found, commences near the Rappa- 
hannock in the county of Spottsylvania, and inclining with the mountains 
from N E. to S. E. runs through Spottsylvania, Louisa, Fluvanna, and 
Goochland, to James river; and crossing this stream near the Point of fork, 
passes through Buckingham into North Carolina, and thence on to the 
Cherokee lands in Georgia. Many portions of this vein are extremely rich. 



24 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

and the purity is so extraordinary, the ore so near the surface, and the ma- 
chinery necessary for its coUection so cheap, that many individuals have en- 
o-ao-ed'in the search. [For a more particular discription, see the several 
counties mentioned.] The dip of the rocks in this region is usually about 45°. 
West of the Blue Ridge, the country may be considered as divided by a 
line, sometimes corresponding vnth the Alleghany mountains, but in gen- 
eral running east of them ; and south of the head waters of the Roanoke, 
stretching along the summits of the Bushy, Clinch, and Garden moun- 
tains. E^ast of this line, the primitlrr rocks appear only at the tops of high 
ridges and mountains; the intervals between, and the sides of the mountains 
being in general transition, but sometimes secondary formations. Among 
the rocks of this region, are blue and gray limestone, slate, sandstone, gyp- 
sum, buhrstone, and conglomerate or pudding stone,^ — iron ore of the best 
quality is extensively distributed in this portion of the state, and valuable 
lead mines are worked in Wythe county, near Austinsville. The dip of the 
rocks is in this district less than in the primitive, but sometimes rises to 45°. 
West of this line described lies the great secoH//«.r?/ formation of the state. 
The line of strata is more or less undulating, but in general nearly horizon- 
tal. This portion of the state abounds in mineral wealth. Bituminous 
coal, and iron ore are found almost every where:' — beds of limestone are ex- 
tensively distributed, and the caverns which abound in them furnish large 
quantities of nitre. The salt Avells of the great Kenawha and Holston, art^ 
even superior to those of Onandagua, in New York ; and new springs art 
every day developing themselves and being brought into operation, on the 
little Kenawha, and in other places. When greater facilities of transpor- 
tation shall be given t^this district of country, it maybe confidently predic- 
ted that no portion of the United States will present greater rewards to in- 
dustry and enterprize. 

Mineral Waters. — The Hydro-sulphurous springs of Virginia have 
been long celebrated. Perhaps they are surpassed in no portion of the 
earth for efficacy, in most of the cases which result from diseased action of 
the liver, or the stomach. They are known by the appellations of the Blue 
sulphur, White sulphur, Salt and Red sulphur springs, to which have been 
recentlj'^ added, the Gray sulphur; and are situated, the two former in Green- 
brier, at the foot of the western slope of the Alleghany, — and the three last 
in the county of Monroe. The Blue sulphur holds at least three active me- 
dicinal qualities in its composition; its tonic quality admirably sustains and 
husbands the debilitated system, while the alimentary canal and the glandu- 
lar organs are efficiently operated upon, by its cathartic and deobstruent 
powers. The While sulphur acts, when taken in doses of two or three 
glasses at a time, as an alterative, exercising on the system much of the 
salutary influence, without the evil effects of mercury, — used in larger 
quantities it becomes actively diaretic and purgative. The Salt sulphur is 
more remarkable than the White, for the latter property; but not equal to it 
in the former. The Red sulphur, in addition to the qualities which it has 
in common with the last mentioned springs, is remarkable for its action on 
the pulse, Avhich it reduces considerably in a short time: this property ren- 
ders it highly valuable in pulmonary affections. The Sweet springs are 
situated on Potts' creek (a branch of James river) about 22 miles east of the 
Salt sulphur springs. They are of the class of waters called acidulous, 
and are valuable as a tonic in cases of debility, and in all the varieties of 
dyspepsia which arc unaccompanied by inflammation. Their temperature is 



OF VIRGINIA. 25 

about 73°. In the same range of mountains in which the Sweet springs are 
situated, and from 35 to 40 miles to the northeast are the thermal waters, 
known as the Warm and the Hot springs: The baths of the former are 
of the temperature of 96°, and are famed for relieving rhumatism, and va- 
rious other complaints. The temperature of the latter, present every va- 
riety, from 51 to 107°, and are celebrated for their efficacy in cutaneous, 
rhumatic, dyspeptic, and liver complaints. Dr. Bell, in describing these 
springs observes, — all that has been performed by the Bristol, Buxton, and 
Bath waters in England, maybe safely claimed as of easy accomplishment by 
the Virginia waters just enumerated. If to the Hot, Warm and Sweet 
springs, — We add the white, Salt, Red, and Blue Sulphur, — we may safe- 
ly challenge any district of country of the same extent in the world to pro- 
duce the same number and variety of valuable waters, — whether we have 
regard to their mineral impregnation or temperature, or the time in which 
they relieve entirely and permanently from a host of distressing maladies. 

Besides the above waters, there are various others of more or less value in 
Virginia, The springs at Bath, in Berkely county, have similar properties 
with the Sweet springs, and a temperature somewhat higher. In Botetourt, 
Montgomery, and Augusta there are also Hydro-sulphurous waters, similar 
in character to those in Greenbrier and Monroe, but of less efficacy. [See 
in the several counties named, a more particular description of these 
springs.] It is astonishing that these waters should, as long as their value 
has been known, never have been accurately analyzed; until the summer of 
1834, Professor Rogers of William and Mary college analyzed the Warm 
spring water, the result of which may be seen under the head of Bath 
county. ^ 

Scenery AND Natural Curiosities. — The scenery o^ Virginia is in 
general highly picturesque. Without possessing the combination of high- 
land and water prospect, which gives such a charm to the shores of the 
Hudson, or the soft lake scenery of the interior of New York; she surpas- 
ses even that state in the beauty of her vallies, and the grandeur of her 
mountains. The James and Kanawha vallies, offer at many points, in the 
bold outlines of their hills, and their broad and fertile low-lands, images 
Avhich remind the traveller of the rich scenery of the Loire and the Garonne, 
The mountains of the state are strikingly distinguished, not only by an 
ever-varying succession of hill and dale, but by the beauty of their covering ; 
their vigorous growth of oak, chesnut and lynn, contrasting advantagiously 
with the mountain districts of the northern and eastern states. 

The Curiosities of Virginia, present to the tra\'eller, objects of yet deeper 
interest than her scenery. Among them may be enumerated : — the pas- 
sage of the Potomac, through the Blue Ridge, so happily described by Mr. 
Jefferson, — that of James river through the same mountain; — the cliffs of 
New river, which present for a distance of 20 miles, a succession of sublime 
scenery — rivalled in our country only by that of Niagara, between the falls 
and Glueenstown; — the celebrated Natural Bridge of Rockbridge, and the na- 
tural Tunnell of Scott county, "the most sublime of nature's works," — the va- 
rious medicinal springs already noticed; — and the burning springs of Kan- 
awha. The blowing cave at the Panther's Gap in Rockbridge, admits per- 
petually a strong current of air. Other extensive and beautiful caverns ex- 
ist in the limestone districts of the state; of the latter, two surpass the rest in 
beauty and interest, — the one called Weyer's cave, from its discoverer, — the 
other Allen's cave, — the former is situated in Augusta, near the little vil- 
4 



25 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

lage of Port Republic, — the latter is situated in Shenandoah county, a short 
distance from Front Royall, on the right bank of the Shenandoah, about a 
quarter of a mile from the river, and is said to surpass Weyer's in the gran- 
deur and beauty of its chambers. The description given by Goldsmith of 
the grotto of Antiparos seems almost literally to apply to these interesting 
works of nature; Weyer's cave penetrates to a distance of 2700 feet; and 
Aliens 1200; presenting a series of lofty passages, and spacious apartments, 
encrusted with chrystals, and glittering Avith beautiful stalactites; ex- 
hibiting some of nature's wildest and most beautiful fantasies. We feel in 
traversing these magnificient apartments, as if we were visiting some of those 
enchanted palaces in which of old the Knights of chivalry were spell- 
bound, or gazing on the bright visions, and revelling in the beautiful 
scenes conjured up by the magic of eastern fancy. A cave on Jackson's 
river, near Covington, is said to be much more extensive and intricate than 
those mentioned, but not so beautiful. In Montgomery covmty on the north 
bank of New river, l^ miles from Newbern, is situated what is called the 
Glass Windotos ; a great curiosity, which presents the spectator with a scene 
almost as magnificient as the natural bridge. The Falling Water, in Berkely 
county, and Falling Spring, in Bath, are two beautiful cataracts, — the first 
is situated on the bank of the Potomac, 6 miles north east from Martinsburg, 
andfallsover a large alluvial rock, which rises 200 feet above the surface of 
the river; — the latter rises in the Warm Spring mountains, about 20 miles 
south west of the Warm springs, and about three quarters of a mile from its 
source, falls over a rock more than 200 feet above the valley below. The 
ebbing and flowing springs of Bath and Washington counties, may be men- 
tioned as great natural curiosities, — the former situated in the valley of the 
Cow Pasture river, 16 miles north east of the Warm springs; it ebbs and 
flows to a remarkable extent — affording Avhen the tide is full, sufficient wa- 
ter for a gristmill, — when at ebb, only supplying a tanyard and a distillery; 
the water is of the purest and best quality, and equal in the hottest seasons to 
the temperature of ice-water. The Ice-mountain and Ice-cave, in Hamsphire 
county are very remarkable. On the north w^cst side of the mountain, the 
surface is covered with loose stones, which being removed to the depth of 
three feet, an abundance of ice may be found at all seasons of the j'ear. 
The Ice Cave, is situated near the top of a hill, nearly 1000 feet high — af- 
fords an abundant supply of excellent ice throughout the year. The most 
remarkable cataract in the State, is the Falling Spring, in Alleghany coun- 
ty. The stream has sufficient power, a few yards from its source, to turn a 
mill wheel, and about a mile below, it has a perpendicular descent of 200 
feet, over a precipice of calcareous rock ; before it reaches the bottom, it is al- 
most converted into vapour, and the temperature is considerably reduced ; 
the stream unites with Jackson's river, about a mile below the cataract. 
The Salt Pond lake, in Giles' county, not having been described in any ac- 
count of the state, deserves to be noticed. It presents the curious spectacle 
of a beautiful sheet of Avater, about three miles in circumference, and a 100 
fathoms deep, on the summit of a lofty mountain. Some of the aged people 
in the neighborhood, remember when its bottom was a spot of marshy 
ground, covered with pine and oak timber, and much frequented by deer 
and elk in pursuit, as was supposed, of salt. In process of time, a small 
pond was formed in the centre, — encreasing slowly at first, untill a stream 
which flowed out high on the moiuitain, suddenly ceased, and then rapidly 
rising above the tops of the trees, and finally to the top of tlie mountain. 



OF VIRGINIA. 27 

wliicli it overflows at an angle below the general level. The water is en- 
tirely fresh, and abounds with lizards, but has no fish, The idea which 
prevails of its alternate rise and fall is erroneous; it is 3700 feet above the 
Ocean. 

Lake Drummond, m the Dismal Swamp, is about 7 miles in extent, and 
varies from 10 to 20 feet deep; it is about 24 feet above tide water; and in 
times of drought, the only feeder to the Dismal Smamp canal. Its waters 
are cool, and strongly impregnated with juniper ; but pleasent to drink. Our 
limits will not permit us to notice the carved or calico rock of Kanawha, 
and various other curiosities of the state, which merit description: but some 
account of them will be found in the several counties in which they are lo 
cated. * 

MOUNTAINS. 

Having taken a general survey of the whole of Virginia, we will now 
give a more particular description of her mountain ranges, and the courses 
of her streams. Our mountains are not scattered confusedly in groups, or 
in solitude over the surface of the country ; but are disposed in massive rid- 
ges, commencing about 180 miles from the coast, and running parallel with 
it; in a S. W. direction. The first continuous chain derives its name from 
the deep blue colour by which it is distinguished. The North Mountains 
are from 20 to 30 miles farther west; and these are succeeded by the great 
Appalachian or Alleghany range, which divides the eastern and western 
waters. The Appalachian system presents its widest base in Virginia, and 
if we include its various lateral ridges, occupies a superficies of nearly one 
hundred miles in breadth, nearly all of which is covered Avith mountains 
and vallies. In the same direction generally are the veins of limestone, 
coal, and other minerals; and the falls of the rivers. James and Potomac 
rivers penetrate through all the ranges east of the Alleghany; — that is bro- 
ken by no water course, and is in fact the spine of the country between the 
Atlantic on one side, and the Mississippi, and St. Lawrence on the other. 
The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge has been said to be 
perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a ve- 
ry high point of land, — on your right comes the Shenandoah, having 

* Note.— The Ibllowing interesting letter, on the mineral wealth of Virginia, was ad- 
dressed to the Hon. John Flovd, whilst Govenor of Virginia. 

" I have recently returned from a geological excursion m Virginia. I entered the 
state near the head water.s of the Potomac, passed thence to Winchester, followed the 
course of that fine Valley to the Natural Bridge ; retracting my steps, I turned west- 
wardly at Staunton, crossed the mountain at Jennings' Gap, and visited the justly 
celebrated medicinal springs in that region; returning, I went from Staunton through 
Charlottesville to Richmond, and down the James to its mouth. When this tour is 
taken in connection with a former visit to Wheeling, it will be conceded that 1 have 
seen enough of the state to enable me to form a rough estimate of its geological and 
mineralogical importance : and I do assure you sir, that although my anticipations 
were far from being meagre, I was astonished at the vastness and variety of interes- 
ting objects in that' department of natural history, that were constantly developing 
themselves, inviting the mind of man to reflection, and his hand to industry, and dis- 
playing at every step the wisdom and benificence of the Great Greater. 

I determined upon respectfully suggesting to your excellency, the expediency of a 
topographical, geological, mineralogical, and orgetological survey of Virginia. 
Should the enlightened representatives of the freemen of your state concur in this 
opinion, it will redound to the honor of all concerned, by the encouragement it will 
give to the study of the natural sciences— by the enhancement in the value of land 
in the interior, thereby enriching the state and its citizens, and giving a very proper 



28 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

ranged along the foot of the mountains for a 100 miles in search of a vent, — 
on your left approaches the Potomac, also in quest of a passage; — at the 
moment of their junction they rush together through the mountain and pass 
to the sea. The first glance of the scene hurries us into the belief that the 
mountains were created before the rivers, that in this place the latter were 
dammed up by the former, and made a lake, which covered a considerable 
portion of the valley, — that continuing to rise, they at length burst through 
at the spot, and tore asunder the mountain from its summit to its base. The 

check to unnatural migrations to the extreme west — by bringing to light and useful- 
ness innumerable valuable crude materials, — thereby not only enlarging the field of 
manufactures and the useful arts, but furnishing carrying for tlie canals and roads 
already constructed, and assisting in new internal improvements in locations of equal 
importance. That I may not appear to be too enthusiastic, pardon me for pointing 
out some of the most obvious features in the geology of Virginia. Whether we con- 
sider the comfort and convenience of our species, or the industry and prosperity of a 
state, there is no mineral production that can outvie in importance with that of coal. 
In this country, where we have hitherto always had a superabundance of fuel, owing 
to the vast extent of our natural forests, the importance of a constant and abundant 
supply is not felt, and we are too apt to neglect properly to appreciate its value; 
but it is not so elsewhere — and a moment's reflection will shew that it ought not to be 
so here. Without fuel, of what use would be to us the metallic ores1 For instance 
iron, which is now moulted, drawn and worked into thousands and tens of thousands 
of useful instruments, from a knife, to the complicated machinery of a steam ingine, 
would forever remain an indissoluble and useless mass of matter without the aid of 
fuel. Even the steam engine itself, that colossus of modern machinery, Avithout the 
assistance of fire would be inactive and impotent. 

Where is the state in this Union 1 I might perhaps safely ask, where is the country 
in the world, that can surpass Virginia in the variety of position and abundance of 
supply of this valuable combustible 1 She possesses, not only in common with her 
sister states, a liberal quantity of bituminous coal in her western and carbonaceous 
regions — where, according to geological calculations, bituminous coal might be rea- 
sonably expected to be found; but in the eastern division of the state, within a few 
miles of the tidewater of a majestic stream which empties its ample waters into the 
Atlantic Ocean — in a geological position where bituminous coal never would have 
been sought after, because bituminous coal could not there have ever been expected 
to have been found, bituminous coal of a good quality, and apparently in great abun- 
dance has been found ; — nature seeming, as it were, in this instance, to enable her to 
favor an otherwise highly favored land — to have defined all her own rules, and baf- 
fled the skill of the gravest geologist, by depositing bituminous coal upon the naked 
and barren bosom of the uncarbonaceous granite ! I have often wondered why this 
anomaly did not strike the capacious and highly gifted mind of Jeflerson ; and why 
he, or some other of the many reflecting men of Virginia, was not led by it to inquire, 
what else there might be in store for the good people of that state 1 By neglecting to seek 
for them, we ungratfuUy reject the proffered kindness of our Greater ; the laws of 
inanimate matter are, in this respect, in imision with those that govern animated na- 
ture : we are furnished with the material and means, but in order to stimulate us to 
useful and healthful industry, we must labor in their appropriation. God gives us 
the earth and the seed, but we must plough and sow, or we can never reap; so he has 
bountifully placed within our reach innumerable valuable rocks, minerals and com- 
bustibles; but to enjoy them, we must delve into the bowels of the earth — and having 
found them, we must by various laborious processes render them fit for our use. To 
those who are accustomed to regard these things, it is dillicult to determine which 
causes the most painful sensations, to ob.serve how few coal mines, in comparison to 
what might be, are opened in the neighborhood of Richmond; or the want of skill ex- 
hibited in the selection and working of those recently opened. Nor is the deposite of 
the bituminous coal upon the granite, the only geological anomaly of this quarter. 
Proceeding from Charlottesville towards Richmond, almost immediately after you 
leave the talcose formation of the Blue Ridge, you are astonished at the fertility of 
the soil. You can scarcely persuade your.self that you are travelling over a country 
of primitive rocks. Soon however you discover "that the fertility is not universal, 
but confined to patches of a brick-red covering, that overlay the disintegrated mate- 
rials of the primordail formations; and upon .seeking further into ibis curious matter, 



OF VIRGINIA. 29 

piles of rock on each side, but especially on that of the Shenandoah, bear 
evident marks of rupture and avulsion from their beds, by some powerful 
force. The distant finishing which nature has given to the picture is of a 
very different character ; and a perfect contrast to the fore-ground. The 
former is as placid and delightful as the latter is wild and tremendous. 
You see through the rough and horrid cleft, a clear and beautiful view of 
level and fertile country, bounded only by the limits of human vision. 

The height of our mountains has not yet been estimated with any degree 
of exactness. There is no doubt but the Alleghany, as it is the dividing 
ridge for the waters, is more elevated above the ocean than the rest; but its 
relative height, estimated from the base on which it stands, will not com- 

your surprise is not a little increased upon discovering that this brick-red covering 
owes its existence to the disintegration of a rock which, in most other places, is ex- 
ceedingly slow to decompose — and which, when decomposed, forms a cold and in- 
hospitable soil. It is the hornblende sienite. Here it is surcharged with iron, which 
oxidating by exposure to the atmosphere and moisture, the rock freely disintegrates, 
and the oxide of iron being set at liberty, imparts its coloring to the ground, and fer- 
tilizes the soil in an extraordinary degree. 

Next in geological and statistical importance, I would place the mineral springs of 
Virginia; and those would form a legitimate subject of investigation to those who 
should be appointed to conduct a geological survey. 

1 am not aware of any portion of country of the same extent, possessing an equal 
number and variety of mineral springs as the counties of Bath, Greenbrier and Mon- 
roe. This is a subject upon which one might easily compose a book; but I must 
confine myself to a few lines. The waters are thermal and cold ; the former of va- 
rious degrees of intensity. They hold in solution a variety of metals, earths, acids, 
and alkalies, combined in various proportions, and suited to relieve the sufferings of in- 
valids from a number of diseases. Mineral .springs of less interest than these have 
excited the attention of the learned in almost every age and country ; and Virginia 
owes it to her high mental standing, independently of every other consideration, to 
assist the cause of science by investigating the causes of the high temperature, and 
making accurate analysis of these valuable waters. It is the duty of states, as it is of 
individuals, to furnish their quota to the general stock of information ; and this ispe] 
culiarly the duty of a republican state, whose happiness, nay, whose very political ex- 
istence depends upon an improved state of the minds of its citizens. Mr. John Ma- 
son Good, in his "Book of Nature," after describing the barren state of society in the 
middle ages, says: "We have thus rapidly travelled over a wide and dreary desert, 
that like the sandy wastes of Africa, has seldom been found refreshed by spots of 
verdure; and what is the moral 1 That ignorance is ever associated with wretched- 
ness and vice, and knowledge with happiness and virtue. Their connections are in- 
dissoluble; they are woven in the very texture of things, and constitute the only sub- 
stantial difference between man and man," and I would add between state and state. 

Has the heat of these waters any connexion with volcanic phenomenal or is the 
temperature entirely chemical, originating in the decomposition of sulphuret of iron, 
as I suggested some years ago, in a paper published upon the subject 1 At the Hot 
Springs, the hot sulphur water and the cold pure water issue out of the calcareous 
rock at the base of the Warm Spring mountain, within a few feet of each other. 
One of these Virginia springs makes a copious deposite of calcareous tufa; and at 
another, you perceive newly formed chrystals of sulphate of iron. The White Sul- 
phur Spring takes its name from a rich white deposite, and the Red Sulphur from 
one of that color. If this is not an uncommon and a highly interesting section of 
coimtry, calling aloud for investigation, and meriting legislative inteference, then 
have I taken an entirely erroneous view of the subject. 

The Warm Spring mountain is white sandstone. The rocks of the Valley of the 
Hot Springs are calcareous, argillaceous and siliceous. They are all nearly vertical. 
At first the two former, and afterwards the two latter alternate. They have all been 
deposited in a horizontal position, and between their narrow strata are thin layers of 
clay, covering organic remains. * * * * * * 

The mountain ranges of Virginia are more numerous, and the Valleys consequent- 
Iv narrower than they are in Pennsylvania; but some of them are very interesting. 
The great Valley, as it is sometimes calleri, or par excellence, the Valle)/, situate be- 



30 , GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

pare with that of some of its kindred ranges ; — the country rising- a consider- 
able step behind each range. It has been before stated that the Peaks of 
Otter, in the Blue Ridge, were supposed until lately to be the highest points 
measured from their base, in North America ; but it has since been ascer- 
tained that the White Top Peaks of the Iron mountains are still more ele- 
vated. The highest peak of the latter is only about 4,2G0 feet above the 
Atlantic ocean, — which is not one fifth part of the height of the mountains 
of South America, or one third of the height which would be necessary in 
our latitude, to preserve ice unmelted in the open air throughout the year. 
The range of mountains next beyond the Blue Ridge, which we call the 
North Mountain, received the name of Endless mountain from the Indians, 
on account of its great extent. 

Alleghany mountain of the Appalachian system. It is an unanswera- 
ble objection to giving the name of Alleghany to the whole system, that it 
has been appropriated to a particular chain in Pennsylvania, Maryland and 
Virginia. From the basin of the Kanawha, to that of the western branch 
of the Susquehannah, through 4° of latitude, the Alleghany is a dividing 
ridge between the waters flowing into the Atlantic, from those of the Ohio, 
giving source, eastward to the branches of James river and the Potomac 
and on the other side, or weastward to those of the Kanawha, Monongahe- 
la, Youghioghany and Kiskiminitas. The ridges which form the particu- 
lar chain of the Alleghany, are not very distinctly defined, though the en- 
tire chain constitutes so remarkable a feature in the geography of the United 
States. The length of the Alleghany is, from Monroe county, in Virginia, 
in the valley of the Kanawha, to Centre county, in Pennsylvania, in the val- 
ley of Susquehannah, 300 iniles. The height varies, but may be stated at 

tween the Blue Ridge and the North and Alleghany mountain, is by far the most ex- 
tensive. The rocks often obtrude, rendering the soil rather scanty — but nevertheless 
this is a fine district of comitry. 

I could find no fossils in this rock. In regard to the metallic ores I would observe, 
that I discovered suflicient indications of their existing in Virginia in quantity suffi- 
cient to justify a more accurate examination. Iron abounds in almost every part of 
the western section of the state; traces ot copper, lead, manganese and chrome, have 
also been discovered near the Blue Rridge; and the gold of Orange county is equal 
to any found in the Carolinas or Georgia. 

1 have never seen any thing that exceeds the richness and variety of coloring of the 
serpentine of the Blue Ridge. This mineral is easily cut, and the fineness and close- 
ness of the grain render it susceptible of a high polish: at Zoblitz, in Saxony, several 
hundred persons are employed in its manufacture. Besides the minerals belonging 
to the talcose formation, and generally accompanying serpentine, are many of them 
valuable in the arts; for instance, steatite (soap stone,) talc, chromate of iron, clorite 
of slate, and native magnesia. A geological survey would most probably lead to the 
discovery of most of these minerals. 

I could make large additions to this communication, but for the fear of traspassing 
upon your patience. I will therefore close my obrorvations with noticing two instan- 
ces of a want of confidence in the mineral productions of your own state, which I am 
persuaded that a geological survey would tend to correct. I met many wagons loa- 
ded with sulphate of lime (gypsum) from Nova Scotia, being taken to the interior to 
be used as a manure ; but I did not see one wa'j;on employed to bring carbonate of 
lime (common lime stone) from the inexhaustible quarries of the great Valley to any 
other district to be used for the same purpose. In the beautiful and flourishing city of 
Richmond, I observed the fronts of two stores fitting up in the new and fashionable 
style with granite (so called) (sienite) from Massachusetts, while there exists in the 
James river and on its banks, in the immediate vicinity of the town, rocks of a supe- 
rior quality, in quantities amply sufficient to build a dozen cities. 

I have the honor to be, sir, your most obedient servent, 

PETER A. BROWNE. 



OF VIRGINIA. 31 

S500 feet, as a mean. Similar to all other chains of the Appalachian system, 
that of Alleghany does not rise into peaks, but stretches in parallel ridges, 
which, to the view from either side, presents gentle rounded, and swelling 
knolls, or elegantly defined lines, which bound the distant horizon. The 
component material of the Alleghany, is mostly graywake, though limestone 
and other rocks occasionally occur. This chain is rich in iron and bitumi- 
nous coal. Some ridges have naked summits, but this feature is rare, the 
ridges generally being clothed with timber in all their height. A few 
mountain planes with tolerable soil for agri'culture occur, but mostly the soil 
is rocky and barren, and often marshy. Pine and oak the most abundant 
timber. 

Appalachian Systkm. — The name given to the immense chain extend- 
ing along the whole Atlantic course of the United Slates, from Alabama to 
Maine. In the southern states they are 200 miles from the sea, but to the 
north they approach near the coast. They run generally in parallel ridges, 
and the various divisions go by different names. In Tennessee they are 
called the Cumberland Mountains, — in Virginia — Blue Ridge, — in Penn- 
sylvania the Alleghany and Laurel Mountains, — in New York, — the Cats- 
kill, — in Vermont the Green Mountains, and in New Hampshire, — the 
White Mountains. They are sometimes broken into groups and isolated 
chains. Their highest summits are in New Hampshire, and between 6 
and 7000 feet above the level of the sea. East of the Hudson they are of 
granite formation. In the west and south they consist of granite, gneis, mi- 
ca, clay-3tate, primitive limestone, &c. 

Blue Mountain. — This undistinguishing term has been applied to seve- 
ral chains of the Appalachian system in the United States, but more particu- 
larly to that one called by some tribes of Indians "Kaatatin Chunk," or 
Endless Mountain. If we turn our attention to the Appalachian chain we 
find them often only interrupted, Avhere a cursory surv^ey would lead us to 
place a termination. Whether the Kittatinny Chain or "Blue Mountain" 
could be detected eastward from the Hudson we are unprepared to deter- 
mine, but Avestward of that river, this chain is found distinct in the ShaAvan- 
gunk, near Kingston, in Ulster county, New York. It thence ranges 
S. W., meets and turns Delaware river at the extreme northern angle of NeAv 
Jersey, and continues its original direction to the Delaware Water Gap, 
where the mountain chain is traversed by the river, and the former curves 
more to the westward, enters Pennsylvania, over which it ranges about 150 
miles to the northern angle of Franklin county, after having been pierced 
by the Lehigh, Schuylkill, and Susquehannah rivers. Between Franklin 
and Bedford counties the Kittatinny reassumes nearly its original direction in 
the state of New York, and though in some places confounded with the Alle- 
ghany, really continues a distinct chain over Maryland, Virginia, North Ca- 
rolina and Tennessee, into Alabama, S. W. of Susquehannah, the Kitta- 
tinny rises, and extending first nearly Avest, betAA'een the tributaries of Core- 
dogAAdnet and Shoreman's rivers, is thence broken into ridges bounding on 
the Avest, the valley of Conecocheague, gradually curA'es to the souhAvard, 
and reaches Potomac, extending very little Avest of south. Rising again 
beyond the Potomac, between the Opequan and Black creeks, it runs near- 
ly parallel Avith the Blue Ridge, is passed by the North Fork of Shenan- 
doah, and extends thence betAA^een the tAvo main branches of that river. 
Though scarcely appearing distinctly on our best maps, the chain of Kit- 
tatinny is completely distinct, and continues over Rockingham, Augusta 



32 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

and Rockbridg-c counties, Virginia, into Botetourt, to where it is traversed 
by James river, below the mouth of Craig's creek. Rising again beyond 
James river, the chain stretches along the higher sources of James and 
Roanoke rivers, to the centre of Montgomery county, near Christiansburg. 
Here it leaves the Atlantic slope, and merges into the valley of the Ohio, 
by entering the sub valley of New river or Upper KanaAvha. 

Thus far, in all its range from the Hudson, the Kittatinny chain is bro- 
ken into links by the higher sources of the Atlantic rivers, and similar to the 
Southeast Mountain and Blue Ridge, the base gradually rises, ascending 
the vast inclined plain obliquely, until it reaches the highest apex between 
the sources of Roanoke and those of Little river branch of New river. In 
this region the lowest gap through which measurements have been made 
for a projected canal, is 2049 feet above the level of the Atlantic ocean. 
The base of the chain now commences to depress and inflecting to a course 
considerably west of S. W., is traversed by New river or Upper Kanawha. 
Beyond the latter stream, under the Local name of Iron Mountain, and dis- 
charging to the eastward the tributaries of New river, and from the oppo- 
site flank those of the south branch of Holston and Watauga, it reaches the 
extreme N. E. angle of the Tennessee. At the latter point, the chain as- 
sumes a direction very nearly S. W., and under the various local names of 
Iron Mountain, Bald Mountain, Smoky Mountain and Unika Mountain, is 
pierced in succession by Watuga, Doe, Nolechucky, French, Broad, Big, 
Pigeon, Tennessee, Proper and Hiwasse rivers, and merges according to 
Tanner's map of the United States, into Blue Ridge, in the northern part of 
Georgia, between the sources of Coosa and Hiwassee rivers. 

If the whole body of the Kittatinny and its mean elevation is compared 
with the body and elevation of the Blue Rridge, the former exceeds in both 
respects, from the Hudson to their termination in Georgia, though at the 
high lands on the Hudson and in the Peaks of Otter, the Blue Ridge rises 
to a superior elvevation from their respective bases. 

As a distinct and defined chain the Kittatinny is upwards of eight hun- 
dred miles in length. The height above the ocean varies from 800 to 
2,500 feet. All the ridges in their natural state were Avooded to their sum- 
mits, though the trees are generally stunted in growth at any considerable 
height. In the vallies along both flanks the timber is often very large and 
lofty ; particularly the pines, oaks, hemlocks and liriodendron. On some of 
the ridges good arable soil is found on the summits, but sterility is the gene- 
ral character of the soil. Amongst the peculiar features of this chain, one 
may be remarked, which gives it a very distinct character. In all its 
length, it is no where strictly a dividing limit between river sources. 
Without assuming any connexion with the mountains eastAvard of the Hud- 
son, the Kittatinny is pierced by the DelaAvare, Lehigh, Schuylkill, Sus- 
quehannah, Potomac and James rivers, flowing into the Atlantic ocean, 
and by the Cireat Kanawha, and various branches of Tennessee, flowing in- 
to the valley of the Ohio, or basin of the Mississippi. 

Blue Ridge.. — Of the distinctive chains of the Appalachian system, and 
indeed of all the sections of this system, the Blue Ridge stands most apart 
and prominent, though of much narrower base, and of less mean elevation 
than either the Kittatinny or Alleghany. On a colored map of Virginia 
the Blue Ridge has a very striking appearance, arising from the fact of 
being a county limit in all its range over that state. W^ithout tracing a 
probable but hypothetical identity, between the mountains of Massachusetts, 



OF VIRGINIA. 33 

Connecticut and Vermont, with the Blue Ridge, we first meet this chain 
distinct at West Point on the Hudson river. Thence it rises into broken 
but continuous ridges over New York and New Jersey, to the Delaware, in 
a S. W. direction. Traversed by the Delaware immediately below the in- 
flux of Lehigh, and inflecting similar to the Kittatinny, to S. W. by W., it 
is pierced by the Schuylkill at Reading, by the Susquehannah below the 
mouth of Swatara, by the Potomac at Harper's Ferry, by James river, be- 
tween Bedford and Amherst counties, Virginia, and by the Roanoke be- 
tween Bedford and Franklin counties in the same state. In its further 
progress S. W. from Roanoke, the Blue Ridge becomes the limit of river 
source to its final extinction in Alabama. The length of this chain from the 
Hudson to Roanoke, is 450 miles, and from Roanoke to where it ceases to be 
a distinct chain in Alabama, 350 miles, having an entire length of 800 miles 
S. W. from the Hudson. The Hudson does not, however, terminate the 
Blue Ridge to the N. E. Many river passages through mountains have 
been noticed and celebrated, and, among others, the passage of this chain 
by the Potomac at Harper's Ferry; but it may be doubted whether from all 
the attendent circumstances, any similar phenomenon on earth combines so 
many very remarkable features as the passage of the tide stream of the Hud- 
son through the two chains, the S. E. Mountain and Blue Ridge. 

Profoundly deep, far below the utmost draught of the largest vessels of 
war, the flux and reflux of the tides rush along a narrow and tortuous chan- 
nel, on both sides bounded by enormous craggy and almost perpendicular 
walls of rock, rising from one thousand to twelve or fifteen hundred feet 
above the water surface. Sailing along this astonishing gorge the mind in- 
voluntarily demands by what operation of nature has this complication of 
wonders been produced? Again, what in an eminent degree enhances the 
surprise and admiration, is the fact, that this great river pass is made direct- 
ly through a mountain nucleus In all the chains of the Appalachian sys- 
tem, masses rise at different places, far beyond the ordinary height, and 
spreading much wider than the mean base of the chain in which they occur. 
The Peaks of Otter — the Peaks in the Catsbergs, in Windham, Green 
county. New York, several peaks of the Green mountains in Vermont, 
and above all, the White mountains of New Hampshire, are examples. 
The Highlands, pierced by the Hudson, and passed by the tide from the ocean, 
are however, every thing considered, by much the most remarkable of these 
mountain peaks or groups to be found, not only in the United States, but 
probably on this planet. Receding from the highlands, either to the S. W. 
or N. E. the chain depresses so much, that on our maps, the continuity in ei- 
ther direction, is generally not represented. There is, nevertheless, in the 
vicinity of the Hudson, no real interruption of either the South Mountains, 
or Blue Ridge, along their direction. The highest peaks being in the Blue 
Ridge on both sides of the river. Of these peaks, the highest is Butter Hill, 
Avhich rises 1,535 feet above the ocean tides, and rising abruptly from the 
water, affords a very fine and extended landscape to the N. W. and W. 

After leaving the Hudson, Blue Ridge continues to N. E. about 20 miles, 
and then, similar to other chains of the same system on both sides of that 
river, rapidly inflects to a course a very little north of east, a direction 
which it maintains above 250 miles in the states of New York, Massachusetts 
and Vermont. For the first 70 miles of its northerly course, the Blue 
Ridge discharges from its eastern flank numerous branches of Housatonic, 
and from the opposing .slope, Fishkill, AVappingers, Jansen's or Ancram 
5 



^4 GENERAL DESCUIPTION 

and Kinderliook creeks, flowing westward into the Hudson. With the 
sources ofllousatonicand Hoosack rivers, the features of Blue Ridge change ; 
hitherto from the Hudson, a line of river sources, it now looses that charac- 
ter, and is broken into innumerable ridges by the higher sources of Hoosack 
and Batten Kill, flowing into the Hudson; and thence by those of Paulet, 
Otter, Onion, La Moille and Missisque riA^ers, falling into lake Champlain. 
All these latter streams rise in the S. E. mountain, and flowing down a 
western slope pass the Blue Ridge. 

A hypothesis may be hazarded, that what is designated Green mountains 
in the sourthern part of Vermont, and the ridge or series of ridges, known by 
the same term in the northern part of the same state, are fragments of two 
separate chains, though generally represented as the continuation of one 
and the same chain. Regarding the great western chain, east of the Hud- 
son, in the state of New York, Massachusetts and Vermont, as the continua- 
tion of Blue Ridge,, the whole length of the chain in the United States, ex- 
ceeds 1,0C9 miles. In relative elevation, the Blue Ridge is humble, though 
in one part, Bedford county, Virginia, the peaks of Otter rise to 4,200 feet 
above tide water. Generally, the ridges are from 700 to 1,000 feet above 
their bases, and the base rising with the mountain, when the ridges are 
seen from the elevated table land, from which flow Roanoke, KanaAvha, 
Yadkin and Tennessee, they are, in fact, less imposing than when seen from 
the Hudson, Delaware, Susquehannah, Potomac or James rivers, though at 
the former region, the real oceanic elevation is more than double what 
it is near the more northern rivers. 

From its prominence, and southwestwardly from the Hudson, its isola- 
tion. Blue Ridge has been, though very erroneously, regarded and delineated 
as the extreme southeastern chain of the system; in reality, however, it is 
the third distinct chain advancing from the Atlantic ocean. 

Cumberland Mountain is a chain of the Appalachian system, and 
continues under this name through Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and 
part of Alabama; whilst it is known in Pennsylvania as the Laurel chain. 
This mountain though not so delineated on our maps, is continuous from 
Steuben county, in New York, to Jackson, Morgan and Blunt coimties in 
Alabama, — along an inflected line of 800 miles. About the extreme eastern 
angle of Kentucky, and S. W. of the Great Sandy, this chain becomes dis- 
tinctly known as the Cumberland mountain, and ranging S. W. seperates 
Virginia from Kentucky; as far as Cumberland Gap, on the northern boun- 
dary of Tennessee: continuing S. W., but whh an inflection to the N. W. 
this chain stretches over Tennessee, — dividing in its course the waters of 
the Cumberland from those of Tennessee river: entering Alabama, and 
crossing Tennessee river at its great bend, it gradually disappears among 
the sources of the Black Warrior river. The Cumberland chain is in no 
part very elevated, — ranging from 800 to 1,000 feet above the level of the 
"tide; but though humble as to relative height, it maintains otherwise all the 
distinctive characters of the other Appalachian chains; extending in lono-, 
regular and often lateral ridges, passable only at long intervals where gaps 
occur, or Avhere it is traversed by rivers. The ridges are wooded to the 
summit. 

KiTTATlNNY Mountains, an extensive and important chain of the Ap- 
palachian system. In Pennsylvania the Kittatinny is very definite, and 
with an intervening valley between their ranges, parallel to the Blue Ridge. 
It is the same chain, however, which first becomes definite in the state of 



OF VIRGINIA. 35 

New York, west of the Hudson, and there known as the Shawangunk, and 
extending S. W. over the upper part of New Jersey, enters Pennsylvania 
at the Delaware Water gap. Thence inflecting to W. S W., is traversed 
by the Lehigh at the Lehigh Water gap, by the Schuylkill above Ham- 
burg, and by the Susquehannah, five miles above Harrisburg. From the 
latter point the chain again inflects still more to the westward, between Cum- 
berland and Perry counties. At the western extremity of those two coun- 
ties, the chain abruptly bends to a nearly southern course, between Frank- 
lin and Bedford counties, enters Maryland, by the name of Cove moun- 
tain, being traversed by the Potomac river, between Williamsport and 
Hancockstown, and stretches into Virginia, as the Great North mountains, 
over Virginia, from the Potomac to James river, between Rockbridge and 
Alleghany counties. This chain though broken, remains distinct; a simi- 
lar character prevails from James river to New river, between Wythe and 
Grayson counties. After being traversed by New river, the chain again 
assumes complete distinctness, leaves Virginia, and under the local name of 
Iron mountains. Bald mou.ntains. Smoky mountains and Unika mountains, 
separates North Carolina and Tennessee, to the Unika turnpike on the 
western border of Macon county, of the former state. Thence continuing a 
little W. of S. W., crosses the N. W. angle of Georgia, enters Alabama, 
and separating the sources of the creeks of Middle Tennessee river, from 
those of Coosa, merges into the hills from which rise the numerous 
branches of Tuscaloosa. 

Thus, defectively as the Kittatinny, called expressly by the Indians Ka- 
taatin Chunk, or the Endless mountains, are delineated on our maps, it is 
in nature a prominent and individual chain, from N. lat. 34° 31' to 41° 30', 
and 2° 45' E. to 10° W. long., Washington city. Ranging through 7° of lat. 
and almost 13° of long., stretching along a space exceeding 900 statute miles, 
and varying in distance from the Blue Ridge, between 1-5 to 25 miles, gen- 
erally about 20, though in some places the two chains approach, as at Har- 
risburg, to within less than 10 miles from each other. In relative height the 
Kittatinny exceeds the Blue Ridge, but as regards the plain or table land 
on which they both stand, it rises gradually from tide water in Hudson 
river, to an elevation of 2,500 feet in Ashe county, of North Carolina. From 
James river to the Hudson, the chain ranges along the Atlantic slope, and 
is broken by streams flowing through it on their course towards the Atlan- 
tic ocean, but passing the higher valley of James river, the Kittatinny Avinds 
over the real dividing line of the waters, and is thence traversed by New 
river, Watauga, Nolechucky, French Broad and Tennessee rivers. 

Kittatinny Valley, in the most extended sense of the term, is in length 
commensurate with the mountain chain from which the name is derived; 
it therefore extends fromHudson river to the northern part of Alabama, vary- 
ing in width from eight to 25 miles, with generally a substratum of limestone 
towards Blue Ridge, and of clay slate on the side of the Kittatinny- Some of 
the most flourishing agricultural districts of the United States, are included 
in this physical section. The county of Orange, in New York, Sussex and 
Warren, in New Jersey, are nearly all comprised Avithin its limits. In 
Pennsylvania it embraces the greater part of the lower section of Northamp- 
ton; nearly all Lehigh, Berks and Lebanon, the lower part of Dauphin, 
with the greater share of Cumberland and Franklin. In Maryland the 
eastern and left part of Washington. In Virginia, a large part of Berkley, 
JefTerson, Frederick, Shenandoah Rockingham, Augusta, Rockbridge, Bo- 



36 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

tetourt, Monto-omery and Grayson, and in North Carolina, the counties of 
Ashe, Buncombe, Haywood and Macon. 

The latitude and relative elevation of this great zone has already been 
shown in the preceding article, and the peculiar features of its parts may be 
seen under the respective heads of the counties it embraces, in whole or in 
part. 

Laurel Hill, or Laurel Mountain, is a local name given to several 
of the western chains of the Appalachian system, and leads of course to con- 
fusion. The chain in Pennsylvania extending from the Conemaugh to the 
Youghioghany river, — and which seperates Cambria county, from West- 
morland, and Summerset from Westmorland and Fayette, is there called the 
Laurel Hill, whilst another chain ten miles further west, is called the 
Chesnut Ridge. Both these ridges continue out of Pennsylvania, and en- 
ter Virginia, S. W. of the Youghioghany; but the names are reversed, ^.xidi 
the Chesnut Ridge of Pennsylvania is the Laurel Hill of Virginia. Such 
is the wretched delineation of the Appalachian system, on all of our maps, 
that no adequate idea of the respective chains, can, in many instances, be 
obtained from them. The two chains mentioned in this article, though not 
so represented, preserve their identity, in a manner similar to the Blue Ridge, 
from New York to Alabama. 

BAYS, HARBOURS, RIVERS, SWAMPS, &c. 

To complete our view of Natural Virginia, we have only to consider her 
waters: these for convenience we shall arrange as we have the mountains, 
in alphabetical order. 

Albemarle Sound belongs to North Carolina, but as it is intimately 
connected with some of the w^aters of Virginia, we will notice it, — It is an 
estuary of the Roanoke and Chowan rivers, extending 60 miles in length 
from east to w^est, along N. lat. 36°, with a mean breadth of eight miles, but 
protruding several deep minor bays. The Roanoke enters from the west, 
and the Chowan from the N. W. at the extreme interior of Albemarle, which 
spreads below the entrance of those rivers in a shallow expanse of water, 
with a level, or rather a flat, country along each shore. Every small inlet 
has its own comparative broad bay, by one of which, the Pasquotank, a navi- 
gable inland communication by the Dismal Swamp canal, has been formed 
between Albemarle sound and Chesapeake bay. Albemarle sound is sepa- 
rated from the Atlantic ocean, by long, low, and narrow reefs of sand; but 
having two channels of connexion southward with Pamlico sound, one on 
each side of the Roanoke Island, and on the northward an opening to the 
ocean by Currituck sound and inlet ; both rivers are navigable to near their 
sources. The climate of this basin differs very much between its extremes, 
both from difference of latitude and of level. The latitude differs near 3^: 
degrees, and the level not less than 1000 feet, giving an entire difference of 
temperature of upwards of 5 degrees of latitude. The vegetable productions, 
both na'atral and exotic, have a corresponding variety with the extent of cli- 
mate. On this basin, near the mouth, the orange and sugar cane are culti- 
vated; and on its higher branches, the apple, and wheat, rye, oats, and other 
cerealia. The staple vegetable, however, both on the interior and islands 
contiguous to this basin, is cotton, though admitting a very wide range of 
staple, such as tobacco, indigo, &c. Rice is extensively cultivated. 

Appomatox river rises in Buckingliam and Prince Edward counties, 



OF VIRGINIA. 37 

and flows thence by a very crooked channel, but by a general eastern course, 
with the counties of Prince Edward, Amelia, Dinwiddie, and Prince George, 
on the right, and Buckingham, Cumberland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield on 
the left, and falls into James river after a comparative course of 90 miles. 
The tide ascends the Appomattox, to the falls of Petersburg, about 20 miles 
above the mouth, and thus far contains depth of water for large merchant 
vessels. This stream drains a very fine section of Virginia, between lat. 
37° 33' and 37° 26' north. It may be navigated as far as Broadway's, by 
any vessel which has crossed Harrison's bar, in James river, and has eight 
or nine feet water a few miles higher up to Fisher's bar ; and by late im- 
provements it contains seven feet water to Petersburg, where navigation 
ceases. 

Bannister river rises by numerous branches in Pittsylvania county, 
and flowing twenty-five miles in a N. E. direction, enters ■ Halifax county, and 
inflects to the S. E. about 30 miles, and falls mto Dan river about ten miles 
above the junction of the latter with the Roanoke. Bannister drains most 
part of the peninsula between Dan and Roanoke rivers, below the eastern 
boundary of Henry and Franklin counties. 

Big Sandy, mentioned before as Great Sandy river, has its most remote 
sources in the north western slopes of Clinch mountain, but receives tribu- 
taries from a distance of 70 miles, along the upper parts of Russell, Taze- 
well, and Logan counties. The eastern or main branch rises in Logan and 
Tazewell, but the higher streams uniting, the main channel becomes, for a 
distance of 30 miles, a line of demarcation between those two counties, to 
where it passes Cumberland mountain. From the latter point to its influx 
into the Ohio, the channel of Big Sandy separates Kentucky from Virginia, 
flowing between Logan and Cabell of the latter, and Floyd, Lawrence, and 
Grreenup of the former state. The main or eastern branch of Big Sandy 
has interlocking sources with those of Guyandot, Blue-stone, a branch of 
Great Kanawha, Clinch branch of Tennesse, and its own West Fork. 

The West Fork of Sandy rises in Russell county, flows thence westward, 
traverses Cumberland mountain, and enters Pike county, Kentucky. Pas- 
sing over Pike into Floyd in the original direction, the channel curves to 
northward, and unites with the eastern branch between Lawrence of Ken- 
tucky, and Cabell of Virginia. The valley of Big Sandy is in its greatest 
length from S. S. E. to N. N. W. about 100 miles, with a mean breadth of 
about 30; area 3000 square miles; bounded to the westward by the vallies of 
Kentucky and Licking rivers, to the northeastward by that of Guyandot, 
and eastward by that of New river, or the upper waters of Great Kanawha. 
The main stream enters the Ohio at Catlettsburgh in Greenup county, Ken- 
tucky, and opposite to the extreme southern angle of the state of Ohio, N. 
lat. 38° 24' and long. 5° 33' west of Washington. 

Blackwater river has its extreme source in Prince George county, and 
within 8 or 10 miles southwara from the influx of Appomatox into James 
river. Flowing thence southeastward over Surry and Sussex, it inflects to 
the southward and separating Southampton on the right from Isle of 
Wight, and Nansemond on the left, falls into the Nottoway river very nearly 
on the border between Virginia and North Carolina, after a comparative course 
of 70 miles. 

Blue-stone, a small river in Tazewell and Giles counties, which rises 
in the latter, and interlocking sources with those of Clinch and Big Sandy, 



Sa GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

flows tliencc N. E. down a mountain valley into New river, which it enters 
about five miles above the influx of Greenbrier. 

Cheat river, a considerable branch of the Monongahela, rises on the bor- 
der of Randolph and Pocahontas counties, interlocks with Elk and Green- 
brier branches of the Great Kanawha, and after uniting with the south branch 
of the Potomac, flows thence by a general northern course 70 miles, over 
Randolph into Preston county, inflecting in the latter county to N. N. W. 
forty miles to its junction with the Monongahela, at the S. W. angle of Fay- 
ette county, Pennsylvania. The valley of Cheat lies between those of Mo- 
nongahela on the west, Potomac east, and Youghioghany east. The length 
of this valley is about 100 miles, mean breadth not more than 18, and its area 
about 1800 square miles. Cheat river is 200 j^ards wide at its mouth, and 
100 yards at the Dunkard's settlement, — it is navigable 60 miles higher for 
boats, except in dry seasons. The boundary between Virginia and Penn- 
sylvania crosses it, three or four miles above its mouth. 

Chickaiiominy river rises between the vallies of the Pamunkey and 
James rivers, about 20 miles N. W. from Richmond; it flows thence S. E. by 
E. — having the counties of Henrico and Charles City on the right, and 
Hanover, New Kent, and James City counties on the left ;' it falls into James 
river after a comparative course of 60 miles. 

Chesapeake bay, a deep gulf, opening from the Atlantic ocean, between 
capes Henry and Charles; lat. 37° and long. 1° east from Washington, 
intersecting in the mouth of the bay, near midway between the capes, which 
are about 15 miles asunder. The mouth of this fine sheet of water extends 
westward 20 miles to the mouth of James river. Curving rapidly, above 
the influx of James river, the Chesapeake extends almost directly north over 
one degree of latitude, with a mean breadth of 20 miles, having received 
from the wcstv/ard James, York, Rappahannock, and Potomac rivers, and 
from the opposite side, Pocomoke and Nantikokc rivers. Widened by the 
union of so many tributaries, the Chesapeake is upwards of 40 miles wide 
from the mouth of the Potomac to that of Pocomoke, and about 35 from the 
most southern capes of the Potomac to the influx of Nantikoke river. A- 
bove the entrance of the tvv'o latter streams, the main bay narrows to a mean 
width of about 10 miles, and at some places under 5 miles, but with an ellip- 
tic curve to the westward 115 miles to its termination, at the mouth of Sus- 
quehannah river, having received from the westward above the Potomac, 
the Patuxent, Patapsco, Gunpowder and Bash rivers, and from the eastAvard 
Nantikoke, Choptank, St. Michaels, Chester, Sassafras and Elk rivers. The 
entire length of Chesapeake bay is 185 miles; and it may be doubted whe- 
ther any other bay of the earth, is, in proportion to extent, so much diversi- 
fied by confluent streams as is the Chesapeake. 

In strictness of geographical language, it is, however, only a continuation 
of Susquehannah river, of which primary stream all the other confluents of 
Chesapeake are branches. In the main bay the depth of water continues 
sufficient for the navigation of the largest ships of war to near the mouth of 
Susquehannah; and in Potomac that depth is preserved to Alexandria. In 
the other tributary rivers large vessels are arrested before reaching the head 
of tide water. If taken in its utmost extent, including the Susquehannah 
valley, the Chesapeake basin forms a great physical limit; to the S. W. 
Avith few exceptions, the rivers, bays and sounds, are shallow, and compara- 
tively unnavigable; but with the Chesapeake commences deep harbors, 
which follow at no great distance from each other, to the utmost limits of 



OF VIRGINIA. 39 

iKe Atlantic coast of the United States. The entire surface drained into this 
immense reservoir amounts to near 70,000 square miles. 

We know of no place in which we can better introduce an article upon the 
Chesapeake Peninsula, a natural section of the United States, the pecu- 
liar features of which are generally lost or confused among the political sub- 
divisions of our country. This physical section is bounded by the Atlantic 
ocean S. E., by Chesapeake bay W., by Delaware bay N. E. and united to 
the main continent by an isthmus, now traversed on the north by the Ches- 
apeake and Delaware canal. That work has in fact insulated the peninsula, 
and given it water boundaries on all sides. Thus restricted, this peninsula 
extends from Cape Charles N. lat. 37° 8' to the Chesapeake and Delaware 
canal at N. lat. 39° 32'. Greatest length very nearly in a direction north 
and south 182 miles. The general form is that of an elongated ellipse, 
which, in component material, features, and elevation, differs in nothing 
essential from the Atlantic islands scattered along the coast of the United 
States. Chesapeake bay is itself divided between Virginia and Maryland ; 
the shores on both sides south of the Potomac and Pocomoke rivers belong 
to the former, and to the northward to the latter State. The southern part 
of the peninsula is entirely in Virginia, and is a long, narrow promontory, 
70 miles, by 8 to 10 miles wide. Above Pocomoke bay the peninsula 
widens, and after an intermediate distance of 33 miles, is equally divided 
between the States of Maryland and Delaware. In the widest part, between 
Cape Henlopen, Sussex county, Delaware, and the western part of Talbot, 
Maryland, the width is 70 miles, but narrowing towards both extremes, the 
mean breath is about 27; area 4900 square miles. The surface is generally 
level or very gently undulating. The ocean and Chesapeake shores are strong- 
ly contrasted. Along the former, are narrow and low islands, with shallow 
sounds, and no stream issuing from the land of any consequence. The 
opposite shore of the Chesapeake is in an especial manner indented by innu- 
merable bays, and compared with the confined width of the peninsula, rivers 
of great magnitude of volume. The character of the Atlantic is extended 
along the Delaware bay; and entirely round the peninsula, much of the soil 
is liable to diurnal or occasional submersion from the tides. 

The general slope is southwestward as demonstrated by the course of the 
rivers Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, Chester, Sassafras, and Elk. Po- 
litically it contains all Sussex, Kent, and more than one-half of New Castle 
county, of Delaware, all Worcester, Somerset, Dorchester, Talbot, Caroline, 
Queen Ann, and Kent, and one-third of Cecil county, of Maryland, with all 
Accomack and Northampton counties, of Virginia. 

Chowan river, is in North Carolina, but formed by the imion of three 
streams of Virginia, the Meherin, Nottoway, and Blackwater rivers: 

The Meherin rises in Charlotte county, Virginia, 1° 30' Avestfrom Wash- 
ington City, lat. 37°, between the vallies of Roanoke and Appomattox, and 
floAVing thence S. E. by E. by comparative courses 80 miles, passes into 
North Carolina between Northampton and Gates counties, and 20 miles 
farther unites with the Nottoway, above Winton, between Gates and Hert- 
ford counties. 

The Nottoway derives its remote sources from Prince Edward county, 
Virginia, between those of Meherin and Appomatox. In a general eastern 
course of 70 miles, the Nottoway separates Lunenburg, Brunswick and 
Greensville counties from Nottoway, Dinwiddle and Sussex, and flows into 
the central parts of the latter. Thence inclining S. E. 40 miles it receives 



40 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Blackwater river almost on the boundary line between Virg-inia and North 
Carolina. Below the junction of the Nottoway and Blackwater, the name 
of the former, and course of the latter, are preserved, and about 10 miles 
Avithin North Carolina and in Gates county, meet the Meherin to form 
Chowan river. 

A tide water river, or more correctly a bay, the Chowan, gradually 
widens, but still retaining a moderate breadth, 25 miles to the influx of Be- 
mer's creek, there bends to near a southern course and more rapidly widens 
for 25 miles to its junction with Roanoke, at the head of Albemarle sound. 
Lat. 36°, passes up Albemarle sound, and intersects the eastern point of 
Bertie county. North Carolina, between the mouths of Chowan and Roan- 
oke, 0° 20' long, east of Washington City. 

Including all its tributaries, the Chowan drains an area of 3,500 square 
miles, Avhich, as a physical section, comprises the northeastern part of the 
basin of Roanoke. As a commercial channel, the Chowan, Nottoway, and 
Blackwater extend almost directly from the mouth of Roanoke to that of 
James river. There is at all seasons sufficient depth of water to admit sloops 
of war to Murfreesboro' on Meherin, about 10 miles above the entrance 
of Nottoway river. 

Clinch river of Virginia and Tennessee, the great northeastern consti- 
tuent of Tennessee river, rises in Tazew'ell county, Virginia, and flows 
thence bv a general course of S. W. over Russell and Scott counties, 90 
miles. Entering Tennessee, Clinch separates Claiborne county from Haw- 
kins, Granger and Anderson; Campbell from Anderson, and thence travers- 
ing the latter, enters Roan, and unites with the Tennessee at Kingston, after 
an entire comparative course of 180 miles. In the south part of Campbell 
county Clinch receives from the N. E. Powell's river. The latter rising 
in Russell county, Virginia, issues thence in a direction almost parallel to 
the Clinch; traverses Lee county of Virginia, enters Tennessee, crossing 
Claiborne and Campbell counties, joins the Clinch at Grantsboro, after a 
comparative course of 90 miles. A short distance above its junction Avith 
Tennessee river, the Clinch receives from the N. W. Emery's river. It 
may be remarked that the course of the higher branches of Emery's river is 
directly the reverse of that of Clinch and Powell's river. Uniting the vallies 
of Emery's and Clinch river, the whole valley is about 220 miles long; but 
the width is contracted comparatively, and fully estimated at 20 miles; area 
4400 square miles. 

In all their respective courses, Clinch and Holston pursue a parallel direc- 
tion, in few places 20 miles asunder, each receiving short creeks, from an 
intervening mountain chain. On the opposite or right side. Clinch ^n suc- 
cession interlocks sources with those of Great Sandy, Kentucky and Cum- 
berland rivers. The relative elevation of the vallies of Clinch and Holston 
differ but little from each other, and each stream above their junction, must 
have, from their remote fountains, a fall of 1000 or 1200 feet. 

Coal river, in western Virginia, rises in Logan county by two branches, 
called relatively Great and Little Coal rivers. The former rises in the wes- 
tern spurs of the Appalachian ridges, flows N. W. out of Logan into Ka- 
nawha county, receives Little Coal river from the S. W. and finally falls 
into the right side of Great Kanawha and Guyandot rivers. ,'[Sce Kan. co.] 

Craio's creek, or, more correctly, Craig's river, is the extreme S. W. 
tributary of .Tames river, rises in Giles and Montgomery counties, Virginia, 
interlocking sources Avith a branch of Great Kanawha, and with the extreme 



OF VIRGINIA. 41 

higher sources of Roanoke; and flowing thence to the N. E. over Bote- 
tourt countjr, falls into James river after a comparative course of 40 miles. 

("owpASTUiJE river, Virginia, rising in the mountain valley between the 
KtUatinny and Warm Spring mountain, interlocking sources with the south 
branch of Potomac, but flowing in an opposite direction S. S. W. falling 
into, or joining Jackson's river, to form James river, after a compaia'.ive 
course of 50 miles. 

Dismal Swamp. This remarkable swamp extends from north to south 
nearly thirty miles ; and averages from east to west nearly ten ; it lies partly 
in Virginia, and partl}^ in North Carolina. Five navigable rivers, and some 
creeks rise in it; of the rivers, two flow into Virginia, — south branch of 
Elizabeth river, and south branch of Nansemond, — and three into North 
Carolina, — the North river, the North West river, and the Pcquimonds. 
The sources of all of these streams are hidden in the swamp, and no traces 
of them appear above ground. From this it appears, that there must be 
plentiful subterraneous fountains to supply these streams, — or the soil must 
be filled perpetually with the water drained from the higher lands which 
surround it. The latter hypothesis is most probable, because the soil of the 
Swamp is a complete quagmire, trembling under the feet, and filling imine- 
diately the impression of every step with water. It may be penetrated to a 
great distrance by thrusting down a stick, and whenever a fire is kindled 
upon it, after the layer of leaves and rubbish is burned through, the coals 
sink down, and arc extinguished. 

The eastern skirts of the Dismal Swamp are oA'ergrown Avith reeds, ten 
or tvv'elve feet high, interlaced every where with thorny bamboo briars, 
which render it almost impossible to pass. Among these are found, here 
and there, a cypress, and Avhite cedar, which last is commonly mistaken for 
the juniper. Towards the south, there is a very large tract covered with 
reeds, without any trees, which being constantly green and Avaving in the 
wind, is called the green sea. An ever-green shrub, called the gall-bush, 
grows plentifully throughout, but especially on the borders; it bears a berry 
which dies a black color, like the gall of an oak, — and hence its name. 

Near the middle of the Swamp, the trees grow much closer, both the 
cypress and cedar; and being always green and loaded with large tops, are 
much exposed to the wind, and easily blown down, in this boggy place, 
vrhere the soil is too soft to afford sufficient hold to the roots. From these 
causes, the passage is nearly always obstructed by trees, which lay piled in 
heaps, and riding upon each other ; and the snags left in them pointing in 
every direction, render it very difficult to clamber over them. 

On the western border of the Dismal Swamp, is a pine SAvamp, above a 
mile in breadth, the greater part of Avhich is covered to the depth of the 
knee with water: the bottom, however, is firm, and though the pines grow- 
ing upon it are very large and tall, yet they are not easily blown down by 
the wind; so that this swamp may be passed without any hinderance, save 
that occasioned by the depth of the water. With all of these disadvantages, 
the Dismal Swamp, though disagreeable to the other senses, is, in many 
places, pleasant to the eye, on account of the perpeiual verdure which makes 
every season like'the spring, and every month like Ma3^ (See a more par- 
ticular description of Dismal Swamp, Norfolk county.) 

Dan river, belongs partly to A'irginia, and partly to North Carolina, it 
drains the greater part of Granville, Person, Caswell, Rockingham and 
Stokes counties, of the latter ciatc, and of Patrick. Hcnrv, Pittsvlvania, and 
6 



42 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Halifax counties, of the former state. The extreme western sources of Dan 
river are in Patrick county, Virginia, and in the S. E. spurs of the Blue 
Ridg-e. The general course almost due east along the intermediate borders 
of North Carolina and Virginia, to where the four counties of Pittsylvania, 
Halifax, Person and Caswell meet. Here entering and flowing in Virginia 
N. E. by E., falls into the Roanoke at Clarksville, having a mean breadth 
of about 33 miles. This river drains 3,960 square miles. 

Dividing creek, a small stream of Virginia, forming for a few miles the 
boundary between Lancaster and Northumberland counties, and then falling 
into the Chesapeake. 

Elizabeth river, rises by numerous small branches in Princess Ann 
and Norfolk counties, flows to the N. W. opening into a wide estuary, termi- 
nating in the mouth of Jtimes river. The entire length of Elizabeth river 
is only about 25 miles, but it gains importance as forming the fine harbor 
of Norfolk, admitting to that port vessels of 18 feet draught, and again as 
constituting with the Dismal Swamp canal and Pasquotank river, a chain 
of inland navigation from Chesapeake bay to Albemarle sound. 

Elk river, in western Virginia, rises amid the Appalachian ridges m 
Randolph and Pocahontas counties, interlocking sources with those of Mo- 
nongahela. Little Kanawha, Wheat, Greenbrier and CTauley rivers. Leav- 
ing Randolph and Pocahontas, and traversing Nicholas and Kanawha coun- 
ties, it finally is lost in Great Kanawha at Charleston, after a comparative 
western course of 100 miles. 

Gauley river, rises in Randolph, Pocahontas, and Greenbrier counties, 
by numerous creeks which unite in Nicholas, and flow by a course a little 
south of west, falling into the right side of the Great Kanawha river, at the 
head of the Great Falls. The valley of Gauley river is about 60 miles 
long, and lies between those of Elk and Greenbrier rivers. 

Greenbrier river rises in the northern part of Pocahontas county, 
over which it flows, and entering and traversmg Greenbrier county, falls 
into Great Kanawha, after a comparative southwestern course of 90 miles. 
Greenbrier has its remote sources in the same ridges with those of Cheat 
river branch of Monongahela, and those of the South branch of the Poto- 
mac. The valley of Greenbrier lies between those of James and Gauley 
rivers. It is an elevated region. The water level is from actual admea- 
surement, 1,333 feet at the efiiux of Greenbrier into Great Kanawha. The 
mean height of the farms above the ocean level cannot fall much, if any, 
short of 1,500 feet. 

GuYANDOTTE river rises in Logan county, from the northwestern foot 
of the Great Flat Top mountain, and flowing thence N. N. W. draining a 
valley between those of Great Kanawha and Sandy rivers, enters Cabell 
county and falls into Ohio river below Barboursville, after a comparative 
course of about 100 miles. 

Ctuyandotte, Little, falls into Ohio river betAveen the mouths of Guy- 
andotte and Great Kanawha rivers, and for some miles above its mouth con- 
stitutes the boundary between Mason and Cabell counties. 

Hampton Roads, local name of the mouth of James river opposite the 
mouths of Nansemond and Elizabeth rivers. Towards the Chesapeake 
bay, Hampton Roads is defined on the north by Old Point Comfort, and on 
the south by Point Willoughby; within James river the termination is in- 
definite. This sheet of water is sufficiently deep for the largest ships of 
war. The United States commissioners, appointed to examine the lower 



OF VIRGINIA. 43 

part of Chesapeake bay in 1818, reported, that although extensive, Hampton 
Roads admitted the erection of adequate defences against an enemy's fleet. 

HoLSTON river rises in the Alleghany mountains, in Virginia, and flows 
S. S. W. into Tennessee, it then takes a course more to the south to Knox- 
ville, and 3.5 miles below that town, it unites Avith the Clinch, and the united 
streams take the name of the Tennessee. It is navigable for boats of 25 
tons burthen, more than 100 miles. On its banks are several iron- works; 
and the adjacent csountry abounds with iron-ore, and contains several lead- 
mines. Valuable salt works exist near its sources. 

Jacksox river, the principal constituent of James river, rises by two 
branches, the north and south forks, in the southern part of Pendleton county, 
Virginia. Flowing thence southwestward and nearly parallel, and between 
lateral chains of mountains, the two branches traverse Bath county, and en- 
tering Alleghany, incline towards each other and unite, but the united stream 
still pursues a southwestern course, receiving Dunlop's creek from the west 
and Pott's creek from the south, after a comparative course from the source 
in Pendleton of about 50 miles. With the junction of Pott's creek, the 
whole stream inflects very abruptly to N. E. and flowing in that direction 
15 miles, through rugged mountain passes, unites with Cow Pasture river 
to form James river. The valley of Jackson's river, is an elevated region. 
At Covington, the county seat of Alleghany county, where Dunlop's 
creek falls into Jackson's river, the water surface is 1,238 feet above the 
Atlantic level', it is therefore probable, that the greatest part of the arable 
surface of the adjacent country exceeds a comparative height of 1,500 feet. 
Lat. 38°, and long. 3° Avest, Washingtori, intersect in the western part of 
Bath county, about 6 miles north of the junction of the two main branches 
of Jackson's river. 

James river. The two streams which unite to form this fine river, may 
be seen under the he head of Jaekson and Coav Pasture rivers. Below the 
junction of its two constituents, the united water is first known as James 
river, which forcing a passage through between Pott's and Mill mountains, 
enters Botetourt, and assumes a southern course 10 miles, to where it re- 
ceives Craig's creek from the south, and inflecting to S. S. E. flows in that 
direction 15 miles, thence abruptly turns to N. E. by E. 20 miles, to the wes- 
tern foot of Blue Ridge, and the reception of North river from Augusta 
and Rockbridge counties. Assuming a S. E. course of 28 miles, James 
river, now a fine navigable stream, traverses a gap of Blue Ridge about 15 
miles N. E. the Peaks of Otter, and in a distance of 30 miles, separating 
Amherst from Bedford and Campbell counties, and traversing another late- 
ral chain of mountains near Lynchburg, again turns to N. E. Continuing 
the latter course 40 miles and separating Amherst and Nelson from Camp- 
bell and Buckingham counties, James river assumes a course a little south 
of east 70 miles by comparative course, having on the left the counties of 
Albemarle, Fluvanna, Goochland and Henrico, and on the right the coun- 
ties of Buckingham, Cumberland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield, to the head 
of tide water and the lower falls at Richmond. 

Meeting the tide, James river, similar to most of the Atlantic rivers of the 
United States generally, widens and presenting rather the features of a bay 
than those of a river, turns to a little E. of S. E. 90 miles by comparative 
courses, finally merges into Chesapeake bay, between Point Willoughby 
and Old Point Comfort. The entire length of .Tames river, from its source 
in Pendleton, to its efflux into Chesapeake, is 3G8 miles, but following the 



44 GENERAT. DESCRIPTION 

actual mear.iiera it is probable that this stream flows not much if any less 
than 500 miles. 

The valley of James river, including all its tributaries, lies between lat. 
36° 40' and*38° 20', and in long, extends near 1° east to 3° 40' w^est from 
Washington. A line in a S. S. W. direction from Old Point Comfort to 
the Alleghany mountain will pass along very near the middle of this val- 
ley 225 miles. The broadest part is along the extreme sources, from the 
fountains of Jackson's river to those of Craig's creek &0 miles, but the 
mean wndth amounts to about 45 miles and the area to 10,125 square miles. 

In the natural state James river affords at, and a few miles above, its 
mouth, depth of water for ships of any required draught, but the depth 
gradually shallows, so that only vessels of 130 tons can reacli Rockets, or 
the port of Richmond. Though much has been designed above tide water 
in meliorating the navigation, little has been actually accomplished. A 
canal connects the tide below, and the navigable water above the 
falls at Richmond. The following relative heights will show the gradual 
rise of the James river. Columbia at the mouth of Rivanna 178 feet; 
Scottsville, at the southeastern angle of Albemarle county, and below the 
southeast chain of the Appalachian system 255 feet; Lynchburg, also be- 
low the southeast mountain 500 feet; Pationsburg, at the great bend above 
Blue Ridge 806 feet; Covington, at the junction of Dunlop's creek and 
Jackson's riv-er, 1,222 feet; highest spring tributary to Craig's creek, 2,498 
feet. Those heights are only the elevation of the water, and at every point 
must fall short of that of the arable soil. Without any great risk of error, 
an allow^ance of winter temperature equal to 6 degrees of Fahrenheit may 
be made between the extremes of this valley on the same latitude. 

Kanawha, Great, river. North Carolina and Virginia, has the most 
remote source in Ashe county of the former, between the Blue Ridge and 
main Appalachian chain, there knowm by the name of Iron mountain ; the 
tw^o higher branches, after draining the northern part of Ashe, unite near 
the boundary between North Carolina and Virginia, and continuing their 
original course to the N. E. by N., enters Grayson county of the lat- 
ter state, breaks through the Iron mountain between Graj'son and Wythe; 
winds over the latter and Montgomery; thence inflecting to the N. N. W. 
traverses Walker's and Peter's mountains. Below the latter chain, the 
course of N. N. W. is continued to the mouth of Gauley river having re- 
ceived also from the northeast Greenbrier. 

Above Gauley river, the main volume of Kanawha is called New river ; 
but receiving the Gauley, and turning to N. W., this now large stream, 
known as the Great Kanawha, is still farther augmented from the north by 
Elk river, and from the south by Coal river, falls into Ohio river at Point 
Pleasant, after a comparative course of 280 miles, 100 above Walker's 
mountain, 100 from the pass through Walker's mountain to the mouth of 
Gauley river, and 80 from the mouth of Gauley to the Ohio. 

The higher branches of New river have interlocking sources with those 
of Catawba and Yadkin on the S. E., and Avith those of Watauga and IIoI- 
ston to the northwest. Below- the Iron mountains the interlocking souces are 
with those of Clinch and Sandy to the west, those of Roanoke to the east, and 
those of James river N. E., as far down as the gorge of Peter's mountain, 
westward of the latter pas?. Greenbrier, coming in from the north has its 
sources in the same region with those of the Potomac on the northeast, and 
with tho.?e of the Monongahela to the northward. The valley of Kanawha 



OF VIRGIXIA. 45 

proper, beloAV Gauley river, lies g-enerally Ijctwcon the valley of Guyandotte 
on the S. W., and that of Little Kanawha N. E., though the sources of Elk 
river, also reach the vicinity of those of Monongahela. 

l^he entire valley of Great Kanawha, including that of New river, extends 
lat. 36^ 15' in Ashe county. North Carolina, to 38° 52' at the junction of 
Kanawha and Ohio, and in long. 2° 43' at the higher source of Greenbrier, 
to 5° 03' west of Washington city. The length of this valley from the 
Blue Ridge between Patrick and Montgomery counties, Virginia, in a 
N. W. direction is 180 miles, the utmost breadth from the sources of New 
river, to those of Greenbrier is 180, but the mean width is about 60, and the 
area may be stated at 10,800 square miles. 

The most remarkable feature in the valley of the Great Kanawha, as a 
physical section, is relative- height. At the mouth of Sinking creek, between 
Walker's and Peter's mountains, 120 miles by comparative courses below 
the sources, the water level is 1,585 feet above the Atlantic tides; at the 
mouth of Greenbrier 1,333, and at the mouth into Ohio 525 feet. Compar- 
ing the fall from Sinking creek to the mouth of Greenbrier 252 feet in 
30 miles direct, that above Sinking creek must be 900 feet at least, conse- 
quently, the higher branches of New river, in Ashe county, must rise at a 
comparative height of upwards of 2,500 feet. 

Little Kanawha, rises in Lewis count}^ and flowing N. W. by W., en- 
ters Wood, and falls into the Ohio, at Parkersburg, after a comparative 
course of 00 miles. The valley of this river is nearly commensurate with 
"Wood and Lewis counties, and has that of Great Kanawha south. Middle 
Island creek to the north, and that of Monongahela, N. E. is 150 yards 
wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of ten miles only; perhaps its 
northern branch called Junius' creek, which interlocks with the west fork 
of Monongahela, may one day admit a shorter passage from the latter into 
the Ohio. 

Little river, of Montgomery county, rises in the western vallies of the 
Blue Ridge, and flowing to the N. W,, about 25 miles comparative course, 
falls into NeAv river, 12 miles S.. W. by W. Christiansburg. 

Mattapony river has its extreme source on the eastern border of Orange 
county, near the Rapid Ann, about 25 miles westward Fredericksburg, but 
the most numerous of its creeks are in Spottsylvania. These unite within, 
and traverse Caroline, and thence forming a boundary between King Wil- 
liam and King and Queen, unite with the Pamunky, to form York river, 
after a comparative southeastern course of ten miles. The valley of the 
Mattapony lies between those of the Rappahannock and Pamunky, and is 
traversed by N. lat. 38° and the meridian of Washington. 

Matciiapungo Inlet, on the coast of the Atlantic, between Hog and 
Prout Islands, Northampton county. It opens into a sheet or small gulf, 
called Broad Water, 28 miles N. N. E. cape Charles, lat. 37° 20'. 

Meherin river, of Virginia and North Carolina, deriving its most remote 
sources from Charlotte, but rising principally in Lunenburg and Mecklen- 
burg counties, and uniting on the western margin of Brunswick. Contin- 
uing its original course S. E. by E. over Brunswick and Greenville, and 
thence seperating a part of Greenville from Southampton, it enters North 
Carolina, between Northampton and Gates counties, and joins the Nottaway 
to form the Chowan, between Gates and Hertford counties. The entire 
comparative course of the Meherin is about 95 miles, but the valley is nar- 
row, not exceeding 20 miles width at any part, (mean width hardly 10,) area 



46 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

about 900 square miles, lying between the vallies of Roanoke and Nottaway. 

MoNONGAHELA river, in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, is formed 
by Monongahela proper, Tygart's Valley river. Cheat river, and the Yough- 
ioghauy. I'he Cheat is in fact the main stream, having its remote source 
in the southern part of Randolph county, Virginia, at lat. 38° 27', interlock- 
ing sources with those of Green river, and Jackson's branch of James river. 
The remote sources of Tygart's Valley river, are nearly as far south as those 
of Cheat, and also in Randolph county. T'he mountain ridge from Avhich 
both streams rise is known locally as Greenbrier mountain, and the valleys 
from which the higher sources are derived, must be at least 2,500 feet eleva- 
ted above tide water in Chesapeake bay. 

Monongahela proper, is the western branch, rising in Lewis county, Vir- 
ginia, with interlocking sources with those of Tygart's Valley and little 
Kanawha. The three branches near their sources, pursue a general nor- 
thern course, but the two western, gradually approach each other, and 
unite at lat. 39° 28', where they form a point of seperation between Harrison 
and Monongalia counties. Thence assuming a northern course over the 
latter county, finally leave Virginia, and form a junction with Cheat on the 
boundary between Fayette and Green counties, Pennsylvania. 

The Cheat in the highest part of its course, flows along a mountain valley, 
in a northern direction, but gradually inclining to northwestward, as already 
noticed under the head of Cheat river. Below the junction of the main 
branches, the Monongahela, by a rather circuitous channel, pursues a gener- 
al northern course over Pennsylvania, about 50 miles, comparative length to 
its junction with Youghioghany, 11 miles S. E. of Pittsburg. 

The Youghioghany is a considerable branch, having its remote sources 
in the western part of Alleghany county, Maryland. Flowing thence 
northwardly, enters Pennsylvania, and separating for some feAv miles, So- 
merset, from Fayette county, receives a large tributary from the eastward, 
Casselman's river, and turning to N. N. W. about 50 miles, comparative 
course, is lost in the Monongahela at MacKeesport. Augmented by the 
Youghioghany, the Monongahela below the junction, assumes the course of 
the former, 18 miles by the channel, but only 1 1 direct distance to Pittsburg, 
where it unites with the Alleghany to form the Ohio. The general course 
of the Monongahela is almost exactly north, and almost as exactly along 
long. 3° W. Washington, 150 miles by comparative distance. The widest 
part of its valley lies nearly along the line between Pennsylvania and Vir- 
ginia, 80 miles; the mean Avidth 40, and area 6,000 square miles. 

If we allow only 1,500 feet elevation to the arable country on the head 
"branches of Cheat, Pittsburg being elevated 678 feet, will give a descent of 
•822 feet to the valley of Monongahela. The extremes of lat. are thus almost 
exactly compensated by declivity, and explain why the seasons near Pittsburg 
and in Randolph county, Virginia, differ but slightly. 

Though the two eastern branches. Cheat and Youghioghany, rise in 
mountain vallies, and the whole country drained by all the tributaries of Mon- 
ongahela is very broken and rocky, direct falls are rare and of no great ele- 
vation when they occur. Cheat river, is navigable through Monongalia 
and Preston, into Randolph county; both branches of Monongahela proper, 
above their junction, and Youghioghany to r)hio, have falls. The whole val- 
ley has gained recent increase of importance as being part of the route or 
routes of proposed lines of canal improvement. 

Monongahela river is 400 yards wide at its mouth; at the mouth of the 



OF VIRGINIA. 47 

Youghioghancy 12 or 15 miles higher up, it is 300 yards wide; and continues 
of that width to the mouth of Cheat river, a distance of 90 miles by water, 
but only 58 by land. In this space the navigation is frequently interrupted 
by rapids, but are passable by boats when the river rises a few feet. From 
that point it admits light boats, except in dry seasons 65 miles further, to the 
head of Tygart's valley, — presenting only some falls of a few feet, and lessen- 
ing in width to 20 yards. The western fork is navigable in winter 10 or 15 
miles, towards the northern branch of the Little Kanawha, to which a good 
wagon road might be made. The Youghioghany is the principal branch of 
this river. This branch passes through the Laurel mountain about 300 
miles from its mouth, and is that far, from 300 to 150 yards wide, and the 
navigation much obstructed in dry weather by rapids and shoals. In its 
passage through the mountain the fall is very great, admitting no naviga- 
tion for ten miles to the Turkey Foot. Thence to the great crossing, about 
20 miles, it is again navigable, except in dry seasons, and is at that place 20 
yards wide. The sources of this river are divided from those of the Poto- 
mac by the Alleghany mountain. From the falls at which it intercepts the 
Laurel mountian to Fort Cumberland, the head of navigation on the Potomac is 
40 miles of very mountaneous road. Willis' creek, at the mouth of which 
was Fort Cumberland, is 30 or 40 yards wide, but beyond that, there is no 
navigation. 

Nansemond river risesin Isle of Wight and Nansemond counties, 
but chiefly in the latter. It opens by a comparatively wide bay into Hamp- 
ton Roads, and is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Sleepy Hole, for those 
of 100, to Suffolk, the county town of Nansemond, and for those of 25 tons 
to Milner's. 

Nottoway river, of Virginia and North Carolina, has its most remote 
source in Prince Edward county. Flowing thence S. S. E. between Not- 
taway and Lunenburg counties, between Dinwiddle and Brunswick, turns 
to eastward between Greensville and the western part of Sussex. Entering 
the latter, and first curving northward winds to S. E., and traversing Sussex 
and Southampton counties, receives Blackwater river from the north, and 
entering Gates county. North Carolina, bends to S. W. 10 miles to its junc- 
tion with Meherin, to form Chowan river. The entire length of Nottaway 
by comparative courses is 110 miles. The Nottoway A^alley is about 100 
miles, by 20 mean width, comprising great part of Nottaway, Dinwiddie, 
Sussex, Surry, and Southampton counties, and a smaller part of Lunenburg, 
Brunswick, Greensville, Prince George, Isle of Wight, and Nansemond 
counties, and a minor part of Gates county. North Carolina. 

OccoauAN river rises in Loudon, Fairfax, and Fauquier counties, tra- 
verses and drains the western part of Prince William county, and thence 
forming the boundary between Prince William and Fairfax counties, falls 
into the Potomac, about 25 miles below Washington City, and nearly oppo- 
site Indian Point. [See Prince William county.] 

OHioTbriiis the boundary of Virginia for 355 miles. It is in some re- 
spects the most remarkable river upon earth. The physical section of the 
earth drained by it lies between lat. 34° 12' and 42° 27', and long. 1° and 
12° west of Washington City. The course of the Ohio proper, from the 
sources of Alleghany to its junction with the Mississippi, is by calculation 
59° 30' west, 680 statute miles. 

The form of the valley of the Ohio approaches, in a very remarkable 
manner, that of a regular ellipse, of which a line drawn from its most north- 



48 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

ern to its most southern sources, from Orleans creek, Cutaraugus county, 
New York, to Bear Grass creek, Marion county, Alabama, 750 statute 
miles, — would be the transverse diameter, and another line CNtending from 
the Blue Ridge, where the sources of the Great Kanawha and those of 
Watauga branch of Tennessee rise, to the northwestern sources of the Wa- 
bash, 450 miles, would be the congugate axis. Measured by the rhombs 
following the elements in the following table, the area comes out more than 
200,000 square miles; 

Table of the extent in square miles of the valley of Ohio river: 

square miles. 

8,980 

25,655 

29,205 

32,700 

32,250 

- 32,742 

29,488 

9,085 



34° and 35° 


2i 


Rhom 


35 36 


Qi 


do. 


36 37 


n 


do. 


37 38 


^ 


do. 


38 39 


8i 


do. 


39 40 


H 


do. 


40 41 


8 


do. 


41 42 


2* 


do. 



Aggregate extent in square miles, - - - 200, 1 1 1 

Allowing the greatest length to be 750 miles, the mean width Avill be 267 
very nearly, or the mean breadth amounts to within a trifling fraction of 
one-third of the greatest length, a compactness seldom equalled in rivers. 

If the Alleghany is regarded as the primary and remote constituent of 
Ohio, this great stream rises by numerous creeks in McKean and Potter 
counties, Pennsylvania, and Alleghany and Cataraugus counties, NeAV York. 
Becoming navigable near the line of demarcation between the two states, 
the stream, Avith partial windmgs, pursues the general course already stated, 
to its junction with the Mississippi, affording a natural navigable channel of 
between 1,200 and 1,300 miles. The opposing inclined plains of Ohio val- 
ley are of unequal extent, nearly in the proportion of two to three, the larger 
falling from the Appalachian system of mountains, and containing 120,000 
square miles. 

In their features also the two Ohio plains differ essentially. The south- 
eastern, declining from a mountainous outline, has a comparatively rapid 
slope. The most elevated table land from which the eastern tributaries flow, 
is that where rise the sources of Clinch, Holston, and Great Kanawha, 
about 2,500 feet. The Appalachian table land declines in relative elevation 
both to north and south of this nucleus, but there is no one part from the 
sources of Alleghany and Genesee to those of Tennessee and Coosa, through 
7° of lat. but which exceeds 1,000 feet. 

The elevation of Ohio at Pittsburg, Avhere the Alleghany and Mononga- 
hela unite, is 678 feet, and that of the low water at the confluence of Ohio 
and Mississippi 283 feet; of course the Ohio below Pittsburg, has a fall of 
395 feet in 948 miles, the length of the intermediate channel. The left tri- 
butaries must have, from the preceding data, a descent of from 1,000 to 
2,200 feet. Down this rapid declivity, advancing from north to south, are 
found/the streams of Clarion, Kiskiminitas, Monongahela, Great Kanawha, 
Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland and Tennessee, and several of lesser length 
of course, whose sources do not reach the Appalachian vallies. 

It may well excite surprise, that along this t;teep plain, direct falls arc not 
frc(pient, and ^^h"re they do occur arc of moderate direct pitch. 



OF VIRGINIA, 49 

To an eye sulliciently elevated, and powers of vision sufficiently enlarged, 
the whole valley of Ohio would appear one immense decliAdty, falling very 
nearly at right angles to the general range of the Appalachian system, and 
the rivers would appear to have cut deep channels seldom in a direction cor- 
responding to the plane of general descent. 

Of these channels that of Ohio would appear as the principal. Per- 
sons competent have carefully measured the height of the hills, in the vicinity 
of Pittsburg, and found them about 460 feet above the low water level of the 
rivers, or 1,138 feet above the level of the Atlantic tides. Above Pittsburg 
to the hills, which rise like mountains from lake Erie, the ascent is at least 
400 feet, and below Pittsburg the fall to the Mississippi has been shown to 
be 395 feet. Without therefore estimating mountain ridges, the great in- 
clined plain of Ohio has a descent of upwards of a foot to the statute mile, 
but what is something remarkable, the rivers, and particularly the Ohio it- 
self, do not fall gradually with the planes of their courses. The actual 
channel from Pittsburg to the mouth is 948 statute miles, and the fall 4,716 
inches, or not quite five inches per inile. 

The waters in effect have abraded their channels, deeper toward their 
sources than in proportion to length of course. It is this circumstance 
which has contributed to give to the Ohio proper, the appearance of flowing 
in a deep and immense ravine. The difference of climate arising from dif- 
ference of level, frequently exceeding a degree of latitude in less than a mile, 
and radiated heat, with an exuberant alluvial soil, giving in spring a preco- 
cious vegetation along the river bank, have superinduced great misunder- 
standing respecting the temperature and seasons of this region. 

Descending the Ohio, say from Pittsburg, the scenery along the banks 
and hills, is in an eminent degree picturesque and varied, but these fine fea- 
tures imperceptibly fads away, and long before reaching the Mississippi, to- 
tally disappear, and leave a narrov/ horizontal ring sweeping round the 
heavens, formed by the trees along the banks. 

As a navigable channel, few, if any other rivers of the globe, equal the 
Ohio. In the higher part of its course, the navigation is annually more or 
less impeded in winter by ice, and in autumn by a want of water. Impedi- 
ment from ice prevails in all its course, but below the influx of Kanawha, 
drought is of less injury, and belov*' the rapids at Louisville, in a com- 
mercial point of view, removed by a navigable canal. 

The four most important of all mineral productions abound in the Ohio 
valley, limestone, mineral coal, salt, and iron ore. Of all continuous bodies 
of productive soil on earth, if climate and fertility are combined, the valley 
of Ohio will, it is probable, sustain the most dense population. Not long 
since there did not e.xist upon its immense surface 20,000 civilized human 
beings. In 1831, it sustained about 3,000,000. Can the history of the 
world afford any parallel to such increase? 

P-\MUNKEY river, the principal constituent of York river, is formed by 
Pamunky proper and North Anna. The latter rises in Orange, the nor- 
thern part of Louisa and in Spottsylvania counties, and flowing thence 
southeastward unites with the Pamunkey, between Caroline and Hanover 
counties. 

The Pamunky rises in the S. W. mountain, on the border between Al- 
bemarle and Louisa ; drains the southern and central part of Louisa, and 
traversing Hanover, joins the North Anna. Below their junction, the uni- 
ted water:?, known by the name of Pamunky, preserve the original course 
7 



60 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

southeastward, about 45 miles comparative course, (but perhaps double 
that distance 6y the bends,) to its junction with Mattapony to form York 
river. The entire comparative length of Pamunkey, by either branch, is 
about 90 miles. The broadest part of the valley but little exceeds 30 miles, 
and is only about 15 mean width, area 1,300 sqtiare miles, lying between 
those of James and Chickahorainy on the right, and Maltopony on the 
left. 

Pig river, rises in the southeastern slope of the Blue Ridge, and 
flowing thence eastward, between Black water and Irvine rivers, traverses 
and drains the central part of Franklin county, and entering Pittsylvania, 
turns to E. and falls into Roanoke, after a comparative course of 35 
miles. 

PocATALTco. — This river has its sources near the northern boundary of 
the county of Kanawha, and flows through a body of forest land finely tim- 
bered: much of it fertile, and sufficiently level for adi-antageous cultivation. 
The alluvial lands on its borders, are generally rich, and of width suffi- 
cient to form good farms. Pocatilico discharges itself into the Great 
Kanawha, 20 miles below Charleston, and forty miles above the mouth of 
the latter river; it is navigable by batteaux, which ascend from 20 to 30 m.iles, 
and during the winter and spring months, large and heavy loaded boats 
may descend with safety, as also rafts of timber of various descriptions. 
Extensive beds of rich bituminous coal, are found near the Pocatalico, and 
its branches, and iron ores apparently of good quality, are often dug out of 
the hills. 

Potomac river, of Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania. This river 
above Blue Ridge, is formed by the north branch, distinctively called Poto- 
mac, Patterson's river. South Branch, Cacapon, Back creek, Opequhan and 
Sheandoah, from the southwestward, and by a series of bold, though com- 
paratively small streams from the northward. The stream to which the 
name of Potomoc is first applied, rises in the Alleghany chain, opposite to 
the sources of Cheat and Youghioghany branches of Monongahela, at lat, 
39° 10' long, from Waishington city, 2° 30' W. Flowing thence N. E. 30 
miles, receives from the north. Savage river, and bending to S. E. 10 miles, 
traverses one ortAvo minor chains of mountains, and returning to N. E. 18 
miles to the influx of Will's creek, from the north at Cumberland. Now a 
considerable stream, by a very tortuous channel, but direct distance 15 
miles to S. E., the Potomac below Cumberland, breaks through several 
chains of mountains to the influx of South Branch. The latter is in length 
of course, and area drained, the main branch. The various sources of this 
mountain river originate in Pendleton county, Virginia, lat. 38° 25', be- 
tween the Alleghany and Kittatinny chains. Assuming a general course 
of N. E., the branches unite in Hardy county, near Moorfields, beiow 
Avhich, in a distance comparative course of 40 miles to its union with the N. 
Branch, the South Branch receives no considerable tributary. The volume 
formed by both branches, breaks through a mountain chain immediately be- 
low their junction, and bending to N. E. by comparative distance of' 25 
miles, but by a very winding channel reaches its extreme northern point at 
Hancock's town, lat. 39° 41', and within less than two miles south of the 
southern boundary of Pennsylvania. Passing Hancock's town the Potomac 
again inflects to S. E., and as above ■\'sinds by a very crooked channel, but 
by comparative course of 35 miles to the influx of Shenandoah from the 
southward, 



OF VIRGINIA. 51 

Shenandoah is the longest branch of Potomac, having a comparative 
length of 130 miles, and brings down a volume of water but little inferior 
to that of the main streaiu. It has its most remote sources in Augusta 
county, Virginia, interlocks sources with those of Great Calf Pasture 
branch of James river, and by Blue Ridge, is separated from those of Rivan- 
na, as far south as lat. 37° 55', almost exactly due west of the eutrance of Po- 
tomac into Chesapeake bay. The elongated valley of Shenandoah is part 
of the great mountain valley of Kittatinny, and comprises nearly all the 
counties of Augu-ta, Rockingham, Page and Shenandoah, with the eastern 
sections of Frederick and Jetierson. The upper valley of Potomac, inclu- 
ding that of Shenandoah is in length from S. W. to N. E. 160 miles, where 
broadest 75 miles, but has a mean breadth of 50 miles, area 8,000 
square miles. The water level of Potomac at Harper's Ferry is 288 feet 
above tide water; therefore we may assume at 350 feet the lowest arable 
land in the valley above the Blue Ridge. This is equivalent to a degree 
-of latitude on the aerial temperature at the lowest point of depression. So 
rapid is the rise, however, in crossing the valley to the foot of Alleghany 
mountain, that an allowance of 1,200 feet is rather too moderate an estimate 
for the extremes of cultivated soil. 

Passing the Blue Ridge, with partial windings, the Potomac continues 
S. E. by comparative courses 50 miles to the lower falls and head of ocean 
tides at Georgetown. Having in the intermediate distance received the 
Monocacy river, from the north, and some minor creeks from the south ; 
like the Delaware, below Trenton, and the higher part of Chesapeake 
bay. below the mouth of Susquehannah the Potomac, meeting the tide, bends 
along the outer margin of the primitive rock. It is indeed very remarka- 
ble that the three bends, in the three consecutive rivers, follow almost ex- 
actly the same geographical line; or flow from head of tide water, S. W. — 
the Delaware 60, Chesapeake 40, and Potomac 45 miles, — the latter a few 
miles beloAv the place at Avhich it retires from the primitive rocks, reaches 
■within six miles of the Rappahannock, below Fradericksburg. The two 
latter rivers not far from parallel to each other, assume a comparative course 
76 miles to the N. E., the intermediate peninsula being no where aboA"e 22 
miles wide, and the distance from the south side of the mouth of the Poto- 
mac, to the north side of that of the Rappahannock, is only 20 miles. 

Combining the two sections above and below the Blue Ridge, the whole 
basin of the Potomac embraces an area of 12,950 square miles, extending 
from lat. 37° 50' to 40° and in long. 0° 45' E. to 2° 45' W. of Washington 
city. The winding of its tide water channel renders the navigation of the 
Potomac bay (for such it is beloAv George Town,) tedious though not dan- 
gerous. The channel has sufficient depth to admit ships of the line of 74 
guns to the navy yard at Washington. 

With its defects and advantages as an agricultural and commercial sec- 
tion, — the basin of the Potomac is a very interesting object in physical and 
political geography; — deriving its sources from the main Appalachian 
spine, the Potomac has worn its channel through the intervening chains to 
their bases; and performed an immense disproportion of the neces.sary task 
to effect a water rout into the valley of the Ohio, — such a rout has been 
commenced under the name of Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and is yet in 
progress. The Potomac is eight miles wide at its mouth, four and a half at 
Nomony bay, three at Acquia, one and a half at Hollooing point, and one 
and a half at Alexandria. 



52 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Its soundings are seven fathoms at its mouth, five at St. Georges island, 
four and a half at Lower Matchodie, three at Swan's point and up to Alexan- 
dria, thence 20 feet of water to the falls, which are 13 miles above Alexan- 
dria. These falls are 15 miles in length, and of very great descent, and the 
navigation above them for batteaux and canoes is so much interrupted as to 
be little used, It is however used in a small degree up the Cohongoronta 
branch as far as Cumberland, at the mouth of Wills's creek; and is 
capable of being made navigable at no grerat expence. The Shenandoah 
branch interlocks Avith the sources of James riTer, near the Blue Ridge. 

Rappahannock river, formed by two branches, Hedgeman's ancf 
Thornton's rivers, both deriving their remote sources from Blue Ridge. 
Hedgeman's river, after a comparative course of 30 miles, between Fauquier 
and Culpeper counties, receives Thornton's river from the latter, and the 
united waters continuing the course of the former S. E. 20 miles, join the 
Rapid Ann. A navigable river at the junction of its two main branches,, 
the Rappahannock, continues to the S. E. 10 miles to its lowest falls, where 
it traverses the primitive ledge, and meets the ocean tides at Fredericksburg. 
Similar to the Delaware, and all the large western tributaries of Chesapeake 
bay, the Rappahannock turns after passing the primitive rock, but after a 
short curve to the southward, this stream resumes a S. E. course, Avhicli 
with a rather tortuous channel it maintains to Leeds, in Westmoreland county, 
where it approaches to within five miles of Potomac, at the mouth of Maf- 
tox creek. Gradually widening, and with the features of a long, narrow 
bay of 55 miles, the Rappahannock by a S. S. E. course, is lost in Chesa- 
peake bay between Windmill and Stingray points. The tide ascends this 
channel to the falls at Fredericksburg, something above 100 miles, admit- 
ting vessels of considerable tonnage. In all the distance below the union 
of its two main branches, it does not receive any accession above the size of 
a small creek. The entire basin is 140 miles by a mean width of 20; area 
2,800 square miles. Extending in lat. from 37° 34' to 38° 44', and in long, 
from 0° 41' east to 1° 22' Avest of Washington. 

Rapid Ann river, deriving its remote sources from the Blue 
Ridge, and floAving thence S. E. 20 miles across the valley, between 
Blue Ridge and South East mountain, turns thence N. E. 15 miles to the 
influx of Robertson's river from the N. W. Passing South East mountain 
and inflecting to a general eastern course of 30 miles, it joins the Rappahan- 
nock 10 miles above Fredericksburg, after a comparative course of 65 miles. 
In nearly the Avhole of its length Rapid Ann separates Orange county first 
35 miles from Madison, and thence 25 from Culpeper. At their junction 
it is superior in volume to Rappahannock; and exceeding also in length, of 
course, the Rapid Ann is the main stream. 

RivANNA river, a branch of James river, is navigable to its intersection 
with the South West mountain, which is about 22 miles. The navigation 
has lately been opened by dams and canals, and it is now navigable to Pi- 
reus, within one mile and a quarter of Charlottesville. 

Rock creek, a small stream of Maryland, and of the District of Columbia, 
gains importance only as it separates the city of Washington from George- 
town. This creek has its extreme source about four miles westward of Me- 
chanicsville, Montgomery county, Maryland, heading with the east branch 
of Potomac river, at an elevation above tide v/ater at Georgetown of 500 
feet. The entire length of the creek, following its valley, is about 28 miles. 



OF VIRC4INIA, 53 

The fall being upwards of 17 feet to the mile, and that fall being in many 
places far above the mean, renders it an excellent mill-stream. 

Roanoke river, of Virginia and North Carolina. Taken in the utmost 
extent, Roanoke basin is the same as Albemarle, and includes the sub-basins 
or vallies of Roanoke proper, and Chowan river. Advancing from south 
to north, all the rivers beyond the Roanoke, have their most remote foun- 
tains on the Atlantic side of Blue Ridge ; but with the Roanoke a new fea- 
ture appears. The Blue Ridge is pierced by that stream, which derives its 
higher fountains from the main Alleghany chain in Montgomery county, 
Virginia, and within eight miles of the main channel of New river, and at 
an elevation without estimating the mountain ridges, of at least 2,000 feet. 
Issuing by numerous creeks from this elevated tract, and uniting into one 
stream near the border between Montgomery and Botetourt counties, it is 
here literally "The Rapid Roanoke," having at Salem, in the latter county, 
fallen 1,000 feet in little more than 20 miles. At Salem the water level is 
1,002 feet by actual admeasurement, above mean Atlantic tide. Below Sa- 
lem the river inflects 20 miles in an eastern course, to its passage through 
Blue Ridge, and thence S. E. 2.5 miles to its passage through South East 
mountain. Passing South East mountain between Bedford and Pittsylvania 
counties, the now navigable volume sweeps by an elliptic curve to north- 
ward, and round to S. E. 50 miles comparative course, to the influx of Dan 
river, entering its right side from the west part. Below the junction of 
these two rivers, the united waters in a course a little south of east 60 
miles by comparative distance, reach tide water at Weldon, having fallen 
by a lengthened cataract over the primitive ledge. About midway between 
the influx of Dan river and Weldon, Roanoke leaves Virginia and enters 
North Carolina. Mingling with the tide, the Roanoke by a very tortuous 
channel, but by comparative course flows South East 50 miles, and thence 
eastward 25 miles to its junction with Chowan river at the head of Albe- 
marle sound. The entire valley of Roanoke, if measured" alorig the main 
Stream or Dan river is 250 miles, but the rivers wind over this space by 
channels of much greater length. By comparative courses it is 155 miles 
from Salem to Weldon, Avhilst from a report made by the Roanoke compa- 
ny, the intermediate channel is 244 miles. Taking these proportions, the 
length of this river by its meanders is about 400 miles. Including the whole 
Albemarle basin, it is 290 miles from its outlet into the Atlantic ocean, to 
the fountains of Roanoke in Alleghany mountain, but with the Chowan 
and Dan vallies united to that of the principal river, the basin is compara- 
tively narrow, being only 80 miles where broadest, and not having a mean 
breadth above 50 miles, or an area exceeding 14,500 square miles. It is 
hot, however, its extent which gives most interest to the Roanoke or Albe- 
marle basin ; it is at once a fine physical section and physical limit. Th6 
difference of arable level, amounts to at least 2,000 feet, and no two regions 
of the earth can differ in every feature more than do the truly beautiful hills 
and vales on each side of the Appalachian chains, from the stagnant marshes 
and level plains towards the Atlantic ocean. Along the lower Roanoke 
commences, advancing from the north the profitable cultivation of cotton, 
the fig tree begins to appear, rice can be produced, and in summer the ad- 
vance towards the tropics is felt, and very distinctly seen on vegetation. 
Ascending the basin, the aspect of the northern states gradually appears, 
both on the features of nature and on cultivated vegptables. Wheat, rye, 
and other small grain, with meadow gras^e^, and the apple, flourish. The 



5i GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

summers are cooler, and the winters have the severity suitable to relative 
elevation. Though the higher part of Roanoke is annually frozen, and for 
a shorter or longer period rendered unnavigable in winter, with lower Roan- 
oke commences the region on the Atlantic coast where navigation remains 
open at all seasons. It is true that even Albemarle sound has been occa- 
sionally impeded with ice, but this phenomenon is rare. As a navigable 
channel following either branch, the importance of this basin is lessened by 
the shallowness of Albemarle sound — an irremovable impediment. At 
present, however, there is in progress a scheme for connecting, by 
rail-road, the navigable tide water below Weldon with Chesapeake bay. 
In its actual state the rivers are navigable for boats to Salem on the Roan- 
oke, and to Danbury in North Carolina by Dan river. This was effected 
by side canals, sluices and other artificial improvements. 

Sandy river, of Virginia and Kentucky, is composed of two branches, 
called relatively East fork and West fork. East fork, the main constituent 
of Sandy, rises in the Appalachian valleys, interlocking sources with those 
of Great Kanawha to the east, and with those of Holstonand Clinch branches 
of Tennessee river to the S. E. Issuing from this elevated region, and 
draining part of Tazewell and Logan counties, Virginia, the Sandy river 
pursues a N. W. direction by comparative courses 50 miles, to its passage 
through Cumberland mountain. Becoming a boundary between Virginia 
and Kentucky below the Cumberland chain, Sandy assumes a direction of 
N. N. W. 70 miles, separating Logan and Cabell counties, of Virginia, 
from Floyd, Lawrence, and Greenup counties, of Kentucky, to its final in- 
flux into Ohio river opposite Burlington, Ohio. West Sandy rises in Rus- 
sell and Tazewell counties, Virginia, and assuming a N. W. direction pierces 
"the Cumberland chain, enters Kentucky, and after traversing Pike and Floyd 
counties, bends to the northward and joins East Sandy in Lawrence county. 
The valley of Sandy river has that of Tennessee river S., Kentucky S. W., 
Licking W., that of Ohio N., Guyandotte E., and Great Kanawha S. E, 
It is about 100 miles long, mean Avidth 35, and area 3,500 square miles. 

Shenandoah river, one of the great southern branches of Potomac river, 
'^s composed of two branches, called with no great relative correctness, 
North Branch and South Branch. The southern and main branch rises in 
Augusta county, as far south as latitude 38", and long. 2° west of Wash- 
ington City. Flowing thence northeastward along the northwestern slope 
of Blue Ridge, over Augusta, Rockingham, and Page counties, receives 
the North Branch in the southern angle of Federick county, after a com- 
parative course of 90 miles. 

The North Branch of Shenandoah river has its source in Rockingham 
•county, from which it f^ows by comparative courses N. N. E. 50 miles over 
Rockingham and Shenandoah counties, enters Frederick, bends to the east- 
Avard, and joins the South Branch as already noticed. Below the junction 
of its two branches, the Shenandoah flows N. E. along the N. W. slope of 
Blue Ridge 40 miles to its junction with the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. 

Tennessee river, of the state of the same name, and of the states of 
Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, and Virginia, is 
the great southeastern constituent of the Ohio. The very peculiar features 
c^r the valley of Tennessee, demand a general and particular notice. This 
valley is naturally divided into two physical sections; the higher or moun- 
tainous, and the lower or hilly. The most remote sources of Tennessee are 



UF VIRGINIA. 55 

fouiul in those of Clinch, in Tazewell, and of Holston in Wythe counties, 
of Virginia, interlocking sources with those of Sandy and Great Kanawha. 
From this elevated origin, the main constituents pursue a southwestern 
course between the two parallel chains of the Appalachian system, Cum- 
berland, and the main spine, both stretching in a similar direction with the 
rivers, at a mean distance of about 70 miles asunder. Besides this princi- 
pal valley, another of less width betv%-een the main chain and Blue Rido-e, 
is also drained by the constituents of Tennessee ; but this more eastern and 
more elevated valley slopes to the N. W., at right angles to the mountain 
chains. The latter mountain A^alley comprises the North Carolina and 
Georgia part of the valley of Tennessee. Including both minor vallies, 
upper Tennessee drains an elongated ellipise of 350 miles longer axis; 
shorter axis 120 miles from the Blue Ridge at the sources of French Broad, 
to Cumberland mountain, where it separates the sources of Powell's river 
from those of Cumberland: mean breadth 80 miles, and area 24,000 square 
miles. Descending from the extreme fountains in Virginia, the valley 
widens as the mountain chains recede from each other, and again contracts 
as the same chains gradually re-approach each ether at the northwestern 
angle of Georgia, and northeastern of Alabama. At the latter point, well 
known by the name of Nickajack, all the large tributaries have united, and the 
Blue Ridge and Cumberland chains have inclined to within less than 40 
miles of each other. Belovv^ Nickajack, the now large volume of Tennes- 
see continues S. W. GO miles, Vv'ithout receiving a single creek of 20 miles 
course, the two bounding mountain chains still inclining upon each other, 
till their approaching bases force the river through the Cumberland chain. 
To one whose eye first glanced on the volume of Tennessee, below its pas- 
sage through Cumberland mountain, without previous knowledge of the 
valley above, no adequate idea would occur, that before it, flowed the accu- 
mulated waters of a mountainous region of 24,000 square miles extent. In 
fact, to an observer, thus placed, the main volume of Tennessee would ap- 
pear as one of the constituents of a river valley below the Cumberland 
chain. About 20 miles below the passage of Tennessee river through it. 
the Cumberland moimtain receives the Blue Ridge, if such a term can be 
correctly applied to the merging of two mountain chains. Here, along the 
northern sources of Mobile basin, the Appalachian system changes its dis- 
tinctive character, and the confused masses of hills follow each other west- 
wardly toward the Mississippi. The Tennessee river deflects rather more 
than does the mountain system, and flows N. W. hj W. by comparative 
courses 120 miles, to the northwestern angle of Alabama, and the northeast- 
ern of Mississippi, where this large stream again bends at nearly right an- 
gles, and pursues a course of a very little west of north 150 miles, to its en- 
trance into the Ohio, after an entire comparative course of 680 miles. 

The second great section of Tennessee, and the lovv'er part of the first, 
below Nickajack, are comprised in the fine northern valley of Alabama. 
The main volume flowing along the base of a physical line extending from 
the Ohio valley in the vicinity of Pittsburg, to the northern part of the ba- 
sin of Mobile. The very striking coincidence of the river inflections be- 
tween the extremes of this region, must appear to the most inattentive ob- 
server of a good map of that part of the United States. This regularity of 
structure is evinced by the great inflections of Ohio, KanaAvha, Kentucky, 
Green. Cumberland, and Tennessee rivers. The Tennessee itself literally 
occupies the base of the pliysical region indicated, as in all its comparative 



56 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

course below Nickajack, or its entrance into Alabama, of 330 miles, it does 
not receive a single stream above the size of a large creek, nor does the outer 
selvedge of its valley on the left, in Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, and 
Kentucky, exceed a mean breadth of 20 miles. On the right, embosomed 
between Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, and comprising central Tennes- 
see, and northern Alabama, spreads a physical region, extending from Cum- 
berland mountain to the lovv'er reach of Tennessee river, 130 miles, with a 
mean breadth of 80 miles, and an area of 10,400 square miles. This beau- 
tiful tract is semi-circled by the main volume of Tennessee, and drained by 
Elk river. Duck river, and innumerable creeks. Below Duck river, how- 
ever, Tennessee receives no stream from either side of any magnitude wor- 
thy notice in a general view. Including all its sections, the lower valley 
of Tennessee comprises an area of 17, GOO square miles: and the whole val- 
ley embraces a superficies of 41,600 square miles. This extent of Tennes- 
see valley, if compared with the whole A^alley of Ohio, spreads over nearly 
one-fifth part, and gives to Tennessee the first rank among the tributaries 
of Ohio. Amongst the peculiar features of the course of Tennessee, the 
most remarkable is, that rising as far north as lat. 37° 10', and curving 
thence southward to lat. 34° 23', it again recurves back to its original lati- 
tude, and falls into the Ohio river almost exactly due west from its primi- 
tive springs in Tazewell county; thus embosoming nearly the whole large 
valley of Cumberland, and part of that of Green river. Geographically, 
Tennessee valley lies between north lat. 34° 10' and 37° 10', and in long, 
between 4° 15' and 11° 40' west of Washington. It is the first and largest, 
advancing from the south, of those streams gushing from the elevated slopes 
of the Appalachian ridges, and which flow westward into the great basin 
of the Mississippi. In relative height, there is above 1,700 feet difference 
between the highest and lowest extremes of Tennessee valley. The arable 
surface of Tazewell and Wythe counties, from which the fountains of Ka- 
nawha and Holston have their origin, must be at least 2,000 feet above the 
Atlantic tides ; whilst that of Ohio river, at the influx of Tennessee, but lit- 
tle exceeds 300 feet. The difTerence is fully an equivalent for 4° of latitude, 
and accounts for the rapid changes of climate experienced on lines of lati- 
tude in Tennessee. The current of every branch of Tennessee is very rapid, 
though direct falls are rare, and even dangerous shoals are not common. 
Of the latter, those particularly called Muscle Shoals, between Lauderdale and 
Lawrence counties, Alabama, are most remarkable and difficult to navigate. 
The whole river, however, having a mean fall exceeding two feet to the 
mile, is only favorable to down stream navigation, Avhich it admits in most 
of its branches to near their sources. 

Tye river, a small river of Virginia, rising in the Blue Ridge, and flowing 
southeastward into James river, after draining part of Nelson and Amherst 
counties, and by one of its constituents, Piney river, forming for some few 
miles the boundary between those counties. 

York river of Virginia, formed by two main branches, Pamunky and 
Mattapony. Below the union of its constituent streams, York river is ra- 
ther a bay, varying from two to three miles in width, extending to the S. E. 
27 miles, and thence east 12 miles, into Chesapeake, between York and 
Gloucester counties. Below the junction of Pamunky and Mattapony ri- 
rivers; York bay does not receive a tributary above the size of a small 
creek. It admits ships of any size to or near the Great Bend at York- 
town, but above admit.'! only roasting vessels. Includins" nil its tributaries, 



t)P VIRGINIA. 57 

llie valley of York river lies between those of James and Rappahannock, 
The gi'eatest length 120 miles from the mouth of York river to the ex- 
treme source of North Anna river, in South West mountain; but, if taken 
with this extent the mean width would not exceed 20 miles, and at the ut- 
most breadth, only about 45 miles. The area 2,600 square miles. Exten- 
ding in lat. from 37° 15' to 38° 16', and in long, from 0° 41' E. to 1° 22' 
W. of Washington. 

YouGiiioGHANY river of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, having 
its most remote sources in Preston county of the latter state, but deriving its 
most numerous southern tributaries from the valley between the Back Bone 
and Laurel mountains, Alleghany county, Maryland. From this elevated 
tract the main stream flows nearly due north 35 miles, enters Pennsylva- 
nia between Fayette and Somerset counties, within which it thence flows 
about eight miles direct course to where it is joined by Castleman's river, an 
equal or probably a superior stream, entering from the N. E, Some of the 
southern fountains of Castleman's river, rise in Alleghany coujity, Mary- 
land, but the greater part of its tributaries flow from Somerset county,. 
Pennsylvania, and rise in the same valley with the confluents of Youghio- 
ghany. Below the union of the two main branches the Youghioghany 
assuming a northwestern course, continues in that direction 60 miles to its 
junction with the Monongahela at MacKees port, in Alleghany county. 
Where Youghioghany is traversed by the United States road at Smithfield, 
the water level is 1,405 feel above that of the Atlantic. The extreme heads 
of this stream have an elevation exceeding 2,500 feet; the mouth being ele- 
vated about 700 feet, the entire fall must be 1,800 feet. The whole valley 
of Youghioghany is cither mountainous or very hilly and broken. 

CLIMATE. 

The following article was received too late for insertion in its proper 
place, but we insert it here as affording some evidence of attention and ob- 
servation upon a subject of which our men of science have been too negli- 
gent; and which requires the joint and persevering labor of many hands 
to afford any thing like accurate detail or valuable information. 

At the discovery of our continent it presented an immense forest untouch- 
ed by human labor. The majestic rivers of the new world, swelling by 
every shower, inundated the whole country, and left in their track numer- 
ous marshes and extensive lakes. The woods were hid with rank luxu- 
riance, while the exuberant undergrowth of herbs, shrubs, and weeds, gave 
to the prospect that gloomy and repulsive solitude which was so aptly de- 
scribed by the first settlers as the tvilderness. The earth could not retain 
the heat of the sun, nor could this effect be produced by the mass of foliage. 
The air stagnated in the forest. Offensive exhalations arose from the nu- 
merous marshes, and the accumulated decay of vegetation, while the whole 
land was rife with the pestilence of malaria. 

We cannot always arrive at definite conclusions of the climate of any 
country by barely measuring its degrees of distance from the equator. Its 
character "is controlled by many other direct causes. Extent of territory — 
nature of soil — height of mountains and elevation above the sea, gi'catly 
affect it. The extent of our northern seas, with the ice which continue.'* 
there from year to year, gives to every wind which blows over them an 
intense cold. A chain of gigantic mountains spread their snow-capped 



58 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

summits throughout the heart of our continent. The winds which blow 
over them become deeply surcharged with cold, whose piercing severity is 
not diminished until it has extended far down upon our southern sea coast. 
Our daily experience attests the truth of this fact. 

The climate of Virginia has not been stationary. To trace its character- 
istics is to follow the varying passions of the coquette — now enticing by 
seductive smiles — and now chilling by capricious frowns. Yet it is the 
clime under whose genial influence we have been bred, and we can easily 
forget its vicissitudes in the glittering canopy of life and beauty which it 
throws around every scene. Those who have dweh amid the sunny clime 
of Italy — the fierce heat of Spain, and the elastic air of France, can appre- 
ciate from the test of comparison, the softness of a Virginian day — and how 
splenetic soever we may be, it never has gloom enough to make us "damn 
it as a lord." 

Captain John Smith, in his faithful and spirited History of the Colony of 
Viro-inia, makes many allusions to its climate, and with a proper allowance 
for his zeal in coloring the advantages of a settlement in the colony, we 
may receive his statements as the honest opinions of a careful and accurate 
observer. 

"The sommer (says he) is hot as in Spaine, the winter cold as in France 
or England. The heate of sommer is in June, July, and August, but com- 
monly the cool breezes asswage the vehemency of the h^ate. The chief 
of the winter is halfe December, January, February, and halfe March. The 
cold is extreme sharpe, but here the proverbe is true 'that no extreme long 
continueth.' Sometimes there are great droughts, other times much raine^ 
yet greater necessitie of neither, by reason we see not but that all the raritie 
of needful fruites in Europe may be there in great plentie by the Industrie of 
man." In an earnest appeal to the friends of the colony, he again recom- 
mends it for the "mildnesss of the ayre and the fertilitie of the soyle " 

This sketch of the colony is studiously silent as to the existence of marsh- 
es, though much of the ill health of the first emigrants, may be traced to 
them.* In giving an account of the bays, rivers, and brooks, our author 
incidentally remarks that " by the rivers are many plain marshes contain- 
ing some twenty, some one hundred and some two hundred acres. But lit- 
tle of grasse there is but what groweth in low marshes." In the advance of 
population and agricultural improvement, these marshes were gradually're- 
duced.. Mr. Nathaniel Causeey, who had lived in Virginia with Captain 
Smith, states in the year 1G27, "that whereas the eoimtry was heretofoi-e 
held most intemperate and contagious by many, now they have houses, 
lodging, and victuals, and the sun hath power to exhale up the moist vapors 
of the earth where they have cut down the Avoods, Avhich before it could not, 
being covered Avith spreading tops of high trees, they find it much more 
healthful than before." Captain Butler, a gallant pioneer of the noAv AA'orld, 
and at one time governor of Bermuda, on his return to England from Vir- 
ginia in the year 1624, presented to Charles I. a pamphlet entitled, ''The. 
unmasked face of our colony in Virginia as it tvas in the tcivter 1622." 
In this Avork he draAvs a lamentable picture of the struggles of the infant 
colony, and asserts "that the English plantations are generally seated on 
marshes, lakes, and infectious bogs, Avhich have subjected the planters to the 

♦In the reply of Governor Berkeley to the enquiries of the Lords Commissioners 
of Foreign Plantations, in 1G71, he states " that all ncv; planfationsRve for an age or two 
unhealthy, until they arc thoroughly cleared of Avood," '2 Ilcn. Stat, at LargCj 515. 



OF VIRGINIA. m 

inconveniences and diseases prevalent in the most unhealthy parts of Eng- 
land." This pamphlet excited much hostility against the Virginian Com- 
pany, which was artfully fermented-by Charles I. who was then secretly 
planning the ruin of that noble and patriotic association. Some of the 
members of the company who had been in Virginia united in an address to 
the public, in which they state "that they had found the air of Virginia to 
be as Avholesome and the soil for the most part as fertile as in any part of 
England." The House of Burgesses in a curious memorial of resentment, 
ill humor, and personal sarcasm, pronounced the charges of Capt. Butler to 
be false and slanderous, and informed the king "that no bogs have been 
seen here, by any that have lived here twice as many years as Capt. Butler 
did weeks in the country — the places which he so miscalls being the richest 
parts of the earth, if we had a sufficient force to clear their woods and to give 
the fresh springs which pass through them a free passage. The soil is gen- 
erally rich and restores our trust with abundance. The air is sweet and the 
clime healthful, all circumstances considered, to men of sound bodies and 
good government." 

In 1624 the Virginian Company in petitioning parliament for encour- 
agement and protection, earnestly recomanended the colony "for that tem- 
perature of climate which agreed well with the English." Smith often 
makes similar comparisons, and it is evident from the writings of our ear- 
liest hi.storians, that the climate of Virginia differed but little from that of 
England. The immense mass of vegetation which overshadowed the coun- 
try, filled it with fogs and vapors, assimilating it to that of England, and 
lendering it extreinely cold in its winters, and tardy in its summers. It was 
less affected by the standard temperature of the sea than England, and was 
marked with more striking vicissitudes. The cold winter of 1 607, which 
was felt throughout all Europe* was, in the language of Smith, found "as 
extreame in Virginia." There were also many unseasonable years, and 
others singularly propitious to the agriculture of the country. The year 
1610 was long recollected by the epithet of the starving time, while in the 
year 1619 two crops of rare-ripe corn were made. Among many of the 
acts of the House of Burgesses regulating the trade of the country, we find 
one which prohibits the exportation of Indian corn "on account of the un- 
seasonableness of the last two summers." 

As the country was gradually cleared of its forests and undergrowth, the 
climate became dry, temperate, and warm. The act of the House of Bur- 
gesses of 1705, which directed the capitol to be built at Williamsburg, re- 
cites, "that this place hath been found by constant experience to be healthy 
and agreeable to the constitutions of this his majesty's colony and domin- 
ion, having the natural advantages of a serene and temperate air, and dry 
and champaign land." A correspondent to the Royal Philosophical Socie- 
ty, who wrote an account of Virginia about this period, says "that the win- 
ters are dry and clear — the spring is earlier than that of England. Snow 
falls in great quantities, but seldom lies above a day or two, and the frosts, 
though quick and sharpe, seldom la,st long. July and August are sultry 
hot, while September is noted for prodigious showers of rain. _ The north 
and N. W. winds are either very sharp and piercing, or boisterous and 
stormy, and the S. E. and south hazy and sultry." 

* hi this year at Paris the beard of Honry IV. was frozen in bed cum regina. Sul- 
ly's Mem. Vol. IV. 252. 



60 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Prom the want of accurate observations, and those careful colkctjons of 
meteorological facts which elucidate the character of all climates, our spe- 
culations on that of Virginia must be necessarily vague and indefinite, and 
for the nicer shades of its changes, we are forced to substitute the broader 
features of its outline. Our climate is uniform only in its sudden vicissi- 
tudes. Its consistency is impaired by many causes, which have produced 
a difference of temperature dependant on the deeply marked geographical 
distinctions of our sea board, tide water, valley, and niountainous regions, 
My observations have been principally confined to that intermediate country, 
between the Chesapeake and the South West Mountains, on the low and 
moist lands of the Matapony, in latitude north 38° 6', and about seventy 
miles south of Washington City. While I am forced in my examination 
of the temperature of odier parts of the state, to rely on statements often in- 
accurate in their conception and irrelevant in their details. 

The standard temperature of every country is regulated by that of the le- 
vel of the ocean. According to the researches of Professor Leslie, the 
mean temperature at the level of the sea, in our latitude, is between 67°" 
and 71°, which gradually diminishes from that level, until it reaches the 
point of perj^etual congelation. Pure air is not heated by the sun's rays 
which pass through it. The solar rays must be stopped by the earth, col- 
lected and reflected before any heat can be given to the atmosphere. In tak- 
ing a standard, we assume the sea, which afi(3rds a fairer criterion of uni- 
form temperature, than the mean heat of springs and wells. Neither does 
the sea retain the extreme of heat or cold which we find in the earth. A 
cold Avind blowing over this volume of salt water, necessarily cools its sur- 
face, which from its increase of specific gravity, sinks and gives place to 
an inferior warmer wave. The action of the Avind in rippling the surface 
of the Avater, and the influence of tide and currents conspire in bringing 
the warmer Avater to the level of the sea to mitigate the coldness of the 
wind: this action continues till the AA'hole water is so far cooled that it be- 
comes susceptible of frost. When frozen it is no longer warmed from the 
inferior AA'ater, but blows on with increased rigor. A Avarm Avind takes a 
portion of cold as it passes o\'er the surface of the sea, and becomes reduced 
to the mean temperature of that body. The sea breeze so prevalent in Eas- 
tern Virginia is cool, as much from the standard heat of the ocean, as from 
its rapidity of motion. It is cooler in Virginia than in the West Indies, 
and often since the opening of the country, spreads its elastic freshness to 
the foot of the South West Mountains, There is a sensible and striking 
difference betAveen the temperature of Eastern and Western Virginia, The 
former from its vicinity to the sea coast, becomes tempered into more gen- 
tleness; while its earlier vegetation shoAVS the greater poAA'er of its soil to 
retain heat. In the latter the Avinters are longer and more severe, yet the 
farmer may there admire the AA'isdom of that providence, Avhich in increas- 
ing the rigor of the frost, melloAvs and crumbles the land for the purposes 
of agriculture, Avhile the light soils of the oast require no such agency. 

In the course of five years, from 1772 to 1777, Mr. Jefferson made many 
observations on the temperature at Williamsl)urg, and haAung reduced them 
to an average for each month in the year, he has given us the results of the 
greatest daily heat of the several seasons.* I have before me a series of 
careful observations compiled by that accurate thinker, and accomplished 

* Notes on Virginin, Cluery 7. 



OF VIRGINIA. 



61 



scholar, the late David Watson, (of Louisa count}',) in a similar period of 
five years, from 1823 to 1828. His residence was near the South West 
mountains, and in a country comparatively thickly covered with wood. The 
result of his observations and those of Mr. Jefferson, making a distance in 
time of 52 years, and of southern latitude in favor of Williamsburg, is here 
submitted ; 



MR. 


JEFFERSON S. 




MR. 


WATSON S. 




January, 


38^° to 


44° 


January, 


36 


to 


44 


February, 


41 to 


47i 


February, 


85 


to 


40 


March, 


48 to 


54* 


March, 


44 


to 


49 


April, 


56 to 


62| 


April, 


56 


to 


60 


May, 


63 to 


701 


May, 


61 


to 


69 


June, 


711 to 


78i 


June, 


71 


to 


79 


July, 


77" to 


82i 


July, 


80 


to 


84 


August, 


76i to 


81 


August, 


81 


to 


84 


September, 


69i to 


74i 


September, 


74 


to 


77 


October, 


6U to 


66 i 


October, 


59 


to 


63 


November, 


47f to 


531 


November, 


46 


to 


54 


December, 


43 to 


481 


December, 


40 


to 


44 



The coolest and warmest parts of the day were separately added, and an 
average of the greatest cold and heat of that day was formed. From the 
averages of every day in the month, a general average for the whole month 
was deduced. In following this mode of analysis, there are many slight 
features of discrepancy between the statements of Mr. Jefferson and Mr, 
Watson, Avhich considerably impair the correctness of the comparison. Mr. 
Watson's thermometer Avas suspended in a passage, far removed from the 
action of fire, in a house constructed of wood; and the calculation of his 
table is based on observations made between the hovirs of 10 A. M. and 3 
P. M. Mr. Jefferson is silent as to the situatio?i of his thermometer, while 
it appears that he has reckoned from the hours of 8 A. M. to 4 P. M. 

Tire hottest period of these five years, observed by Mr. Watson, was in 
July, 1825, when the thermometer on several days rose above 90° and the 
hottest month was in August, 1828. The coldest period was during the 
month of January, 1827, and the Avarmest Avinter Avas in 1828-29. 

My OAvn observations made during a period of four years, from 1829 to 
1834, cannot be calculated for an average te-mperature. Many days and 
even months from my absence from home, Avere necessarily unnoticed. 
Those periods AA'hich are recorded differ but little in their particular and 
daily resuhs, from those of Mr. Watson ; Avhile I have noticed his singular 
omission — the prevalence of the Avinds, and the "fantastic tricks" Avith Avhich 
our climate so playfully disports. From my obserA^ations, I am induced to 
place the mean temperature of our climate at 55°; thus varying according 
to natural and artificial causes several degrees from the standard tempera- 
ture of the sea. 

The year 1831 Avas characterised by many vicissitudes of heat and cold. 
On the 27th February the mercury sunk to 7°, Avhile in July and August 
it frecpiently rose to 86° and 94°. The ensuing AA-inters of 1831 and 1832 
Avere uncommonly rigorous, snoAV fell in great quantities, and in many places 
continued on the ground till the 4th of March. Early frost did much inju- 
ry to vegetation, Avhile the cold Avas but slightly removed from the earth 



ej2 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

until late in the ensuing summer. The spring of 1834 was attended by 
severe frosts, which resembled in their destructive character, those which 
had rendered the year 1816 proverbial. They committed great devastations 
in April, and on the 15th, 16th, and 17th of May, the Indian corn on our 
low lands, and the leaves of the garden and forest trees were scathed and 
blighted to a degree precluding, in many cases, all hope of restoration. 

In Virginia the transitions irom heat to cold are sudden, and sometimes 
to very extreme degrees; often in the day time the mercury will stand at 
94° or 81°, and will fall in the course of a few hours to 60° and 50°. Mr. 
Jefferson informs us that the mercury has been known to descend from 92° 
to 47° in thirteen hours. I have frequently noted vicissitudes of a similar 
kind, and when the change is accompanied by a S. E. wind and rain, the 
air becomes cold, raw and disagreeable. We have few summers in which 
a fire is not often required. On the 1st of May, 1827, there was a light 
fall of snow at Gloucester Court House,* while it is not uncommon to see 
slight frosts in Aiigust. In our winter the cold Aveather, though severe, is 
short, and the frequent snov\'s of the night are generally removed before the 
sunset of the ensuing dajr. Water in ponds is slowly congealed, and rare- 
ly makes ice thick enough for preservation, until it has been chilled by a 
fall of snow — again, its production is very rapid; rivers half of a mile in 
breadth, will be frozen over in the course of one night, sufficiently firm to 
bear men and horses. f In the month of January, 1827, many of those 
short yet wide salt streams, Avhich wash the shores of Gloucester county, 
were frozen to the extent of thirty or forty feet from the land. This rigo- 
rous cold is rarely of much duration. Sustained, and principally created 
by north and northeastern winds, it quickly yields to the shifting of the 
Avind to any other point. Some of our Avinters are so temperate and mild, 
that the cattle can find a support in the Avoods. Vegetation has been ob- 
served in all the Avinter months, and in the latter part of December diminu- 
tive pears, peaches and apples, fully ripened, have been gathered from the 
trees. A rose, exposed in an open garden, bloomed throughout the Avhole 
winter of '28 and '29. In this winter the peach tree bloomed in the latter 
part of Januarj'-, and produced in its regular season a plentiful crop of fruit. 
Many of our coldest days are succeeded by gentle and moderate eA-enings; 
our severest cold is about the latter part of January, generally commencing 
after a hard rain, and continuing on an average about six days, thus realis- 
ing the truth of that old Virginian proverb, "that as the day lengthens the 
cold strengthens; a rapid thaAA% often accompanied Avith rain and east Avinds, 
then takes place, Avhile Avarm days and moderate nights soon reduce its se- 
verity, and open the Avay for the premature approach of spring. "Halfe 
of March" is no longer Avinter. Spring has already scattered her vivid 
mantle o'er the scene, Avhile the AAdiole air is redolent of life and fragrance. 
Yet even its brightness is momentary — an unexpected frost often shoAvs that 
the frown of winter still lingers on the land, and we too frequently find a 
practical illustration of Shakspeare's metaphor, 

" The tyrannous breathings of the north, 
Checks all our bnds from bloAving." 

* Dr. Rush in his essay on the climate of Pennsylvania, mentions a fall of snoAv at 
Philadelphia on the night betAveen the 4th and 5th Iv1ay, 1774. 

tMr. Jeflerson tells us that in 177G York river Avas frozen over at York toA\n, and 
in 1780, Chesapeake bay Avas solid from its head to the mouth of the Potomac. The 
cold Avintersol 1784 and 1814 still live in the recollections of tradition. 



OF VIRGINIA. 63 

it is now stormy, variable and cold; now calm, gentle and warm, and now 
dry, peaceful, and serene. Until the middle of May our climate presents 
one incessant tumult of rain and drought, frost and heat; yet a spring uni- 
formly cold is far more favorable to our agriculture, than its usual imcertain 
temperature for suppressing vegetation, it protects it from the blighting frosts 
of March and April. Often during the spring months the weather is ex- 
cessively damp, cloudy and hazy. In March, 1833, the sun was obscured 
for more than thirteen days, while every thing was chilled into gloomy mel- 
ancholy. 

The vegetation of this season affords us a criterion of the heat of the 
spring, which may be received in aid of the more accurate results derived 
I'rom the thermometer. In the course of four years I have found these ave- 
rage periods of time suststained by careful observations : 

Peach blooms from March 7 to March 14. 

Apple blooms from March 20 to March 29. 

Cherry blooms from March 13 to March 17. 

Plum blooms from March 26 to March 31. 

Strawberry blooms from March 24 to March 31.* 

About the latter part of May our summer has commenced : the air be- 
comes dry, warm and elastic, and the verdure of the forest assumes a more 
deepened hue of vivid green. The superabundant moisture of the earth 
acquired during the winter, is now thoroughly evaporated, and the tempera^ 
ture of the season in dispelling lassitude, invigorates into activity. Sum- 
mer burns on with a bright and glowing splendor, alternately relieved by 
gentle showers and refreshing breezes. Occasional droughts of many weeks 
in duration, parch the luxuriance of the vegetation — they are succeeded by 
copious and heavy showers of rain, which quickly restore the withered 
prospect. The approach of autumn is marked by heavy fogs in the morn-' 
ing and evening, which are soon dispelled, leaving that calm and serene 
temperature, which gives to this season all the beauty of tranquil repose. In 
every season there is a large and constant exhalation from the earth in the' 
shape of vapor, its volume being proportioned to the heat of the day. We 
do not often observe this exhalation when the heat of the atmosphere differs 
in a small degree from that of the earth ; v.'hen the temperature of the air 
is considerablj^ lower, this vapor so soon as it has arisen is deprived of a 
part of its heat, Avhile its watery particles are more closely attracted into? 
union and become visible in the shape of fog. In the autumn of Virginia, 
the heat of the day is sufficient to produce a large ascent of vapor. Undis- 
turbed by currents of wind it easily condenses, and is thickened by calm and 
chilling nights into a heavy mist, Avhich in the guise of a cloud finds its 
resting place on the earth. Autumn of all other seasons, is least liable fo- 
s-udden and extreme vicissitudes. The approach of winter is alike gradual 
and uniform, and though we have frequent light snows, the mildness of au- 
tumn is rarely wasted away until late in December. 

In reasoning from the researches of philosophy, we are taught to place 
but little reliance on the uncertain narratives of tradition ; they, however, 
with a slow yet steady advance, acquire respect, and often mould theory into 
fact, and fashion opinion into fixed principles. The common belief that our 

* At the residence of R. G. Esq. near the Natural Bridge in the valley of Virginia^ 
these fruit trees in the year 1834, bloomed at the following periods: 

Peach " April 1. I Plum April 1. 

Apple March 30. | Strawberry April 15. 



64 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

fclimate has been changed into a milder temperature, has taken most of its 
certainty from the statements of our okl people, who are uniformly colisist- 
e'lli in this particular. The bloom of the orchard trees formerly restrained 
by a protracted winter from premature expansion, rarely failed arriving at 
the maturity of fruit ; the earth remained covered with snoVv for many 
weeks, and the \vinter did riol, as now, dally with the wantonness of spring. 
The marshes, uncleared lands, ponds and lakes, which conspired to absorb 
the heat of the earth,* liave been almost obliterated or greatly reduced. 
There is a lesser quantity of snoAV, and more of rain, while the frequency 
of violent storms of wind in the spring and summer, distinctly prove the 
great mass of our local heat, and accumulated electricity. 

The wmds of Virginia are singularly fickle and capricious, possessing 
neithei: the uniformity or regularity of those which blow at the tropics. Our 
prevailing wind is the south west, which assumes, alternately, gentle and 
severe characteristics. The frequency of southwestern winds above the 
latitudes of the trades, flows as a necessary consequence, from the continu- 
i^iice and direction of the vast currents of air. It moves uncontined and 
unresisted over the sea, until it reaches that unbroken rarige of motmtains, 
which towers from one extremity of our continent to the other. It strikes 
against them, and from its elasticity rebounds with great velocity, in a direc- 
tion Opposed to the forcing powers of the trades, taking in its oblique move- 
ment all those features which mark our southwestern wind. 

During 'the spring the N. E. is the most common wind. The huge mass- 
es of snow and ice at the north pole, are gradually melted by the heat of 
the sun; great quantities of vapor during this time are exhaled and remain 
suspended, augmenting both the weight and bulk of the atmosphere. That 
wonderful and mysterious agent, electricity, in dispelling the vapor and 
converting it into elastic air,t gives an impetus to that wind wliich issuing 
from the poles, takes a northeastern direction as it advances sotuherly, (its 
<5iarnal motion being less than that of the earth,) and falls surcharged with 
Snow and rain on every portion of our country. 

Mr. JelTerson made 3698 observations on ihe various points from which 
our winds blew, noting their changes two or three times in each day. The 
prevalence of the S. W. winds, over those from other quarters is thus nu- 
merically stated by him: 

South West, 926. North, 409. 

North, till. West, 351. 

North East, 548. South East, 223. 

East, 521. South, 109. 

He has also made a comparative vieAv of the difference between the Avinds 
at Monticello and Williamsburg. He has reduced nine months' observa- 
tions at Monticello, to four principal points, being perpendicular to, or par- 
•allel Avith, our coasts, mountains, and rivers, viz: the N. E., S. E., S. W., 
and N. W. He has also reduced an equal number of observations, 421, 
from his table above, taking them proportionally from every point. 

*Th'is principle is apparent from the fact that marshy countries are always cold; 
the decrease of temperatnre after a violent rain, also proves its truth. An imitsual 
evaporation carries off the heat of the earth, and may Ave not reasonably expect a cold 
winter after a Avet .summer 1 

t Through a glass tube filled Avith Avater, Dr. Franklin passed an electric shock, the 
ttibe Avas shattered to pieces, and the water disappeared; a similar experiment Avas 
tried Avith a tube filled Avith ink on a sheet of Avhite paper, the same effects AU'ere pro- 
iduced, the paper being neither stained nor discolored. 



OF VIRGINIA. 65 

My own observations made many times in each day, amount to 749, with- 
out reducing them in the proportionate manner of Mr. Jefferson. I have 
submitted them under the points and heads which he has adopted: 





N. E. 


S. E. 


s. w. 


N. W. 


Total. 


Williamsburg, 


127 


61 


132 


101 


421 


MoNTICELLO, 


32 


91 


126 


172 


421 


Braynefield, 


204 


130 


247 


168 


749 



Days. 




Days. 


122 


North, 


26 


89 


South, 


21 


61 


West, 


12 


30 


South East, 


4 


302 




63 

302 



In an average of two years, I have found our winds thus yearly prevail- 
ing; the dominant wind of each day being only reckoned, and not the usual 
vicissitudes of local b;:eezes, or squalls. 

South West, 
North West, 
North East, 
East, 



days 365 

A curious phenomenon is sometimes witnessed during a severe wind from 
the S. W. ; a thin vapor or scud is seen moving with great velocity below 
the clouds, from the N. E., there being two currents of air of directly 
contrary courses in active motion at the same time. 

In the early part of the spring and autumn, in dry seasons, about sunset 
it is common to meet with currents of warm air, small in their extent yet ex- 
tremely rapid in their movements; they are considerably above the heat of 
the human body, and are wayward and eccentric, both in their duration and 
extent. Their existence has given rise to much speculation, and even the 
experienced philosophy of Mr. Jefferson has succumbed to the mystery* of 
their origin. 

Our frosts are sometimes equally severe and unexpected. No body plac- 
ed near the earth has a temperature of its own, but is entirely regulated by 
that of the earth. A violent storm of rain, by absorbing much of the heat 
of the earth, is often followed by a destructive frost. When the power of 
fx«st reaches a certain pitch, the vapors dispersed throughout the air, yield 
their latent heat — the atmosphere becomes clouded, the frost is either de- 
stroyed or mitigated, and the vapors descend in rain or snow. 

Our hardest frosts never penetrate the earth more than three inches, and 
though the leaves of the trees and shrubs are scathed or destroyed, and tini- 
ber sometimes splits in the direction of the fibres of the tree, its roots uni- 
formly remain uninjured. Those portions of vegetation which grow near- 
est to the earth, and those in low and marshy situations, receive the severest 
injuries. On the night of the 17th May, 1834, the leaves of the oak, hicko 



* May they not proceed from that latent electricity, which pervades the air most m 
dry seasons.'and which is attracted to the human body by its heat,— thus producing 
from the action of offinitv^ the feeling of sudden Marmthl 
9 



66 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

ry, and all the forest trees, Avere blig-hted in most of their foliage; the syca- 
more only remained unhurt. Frost during the Avinter, is a fatal enemy to 
those plants which are nurtured in southern exposures; they are sometimes 
covered with snow, which melting rapidly, is converted in the course 
of the night into destructive ice. Our u^kitc frost is generally harmless, it 
being simple dew slightly congealed. 

Dew is found in Virginia in heavy masses, generally in the months of 
August, September, and October; it lies in greater quantities on our flat 
than high lands, being collected there during the absence of the sun from 
the horizon, like the relics of a drizzling rain. It appears first on the low- 
er parts of bodies, because in the evening the lower atmosphere is first cool- 
ed and most disposed to part with its vapor. 

Virginia is subject to rains of vehement and long- continuance; they fall 
in the largest quantity about the breaking of the winter, and in March and 
September. I have no data on which to reckon their depth* or their preva- 
lence over the fair and cloudy days of our climate. Our valley and wes- 
tern regions, by the condensing power of their mountains, and our tide Ava- 
ter sections, by the attractive force of broad ri\'ers, have more local rains 
than the intermediate country, and do not suffer in the same proportion from 
continued droughts. If a year be remarkable for rain, it is fair to conclude 
that the ensuing Avinter Avill be severe, from the great CA'aporation of the 
heat of the earth, and if the rains have been violent, sterility and barren- 
ness Avill folloAv in the next year in proportion, as the surface mould, so A'i- 
tal to vegetation, has been scattered and Avasted away. 

Our Indian summer presents an ample field for the creations of fancy and 
the conceits of theory. It generally folloAVS excessive and protracted droughts, 
and is dispersed by heavy rains. It has been traced to electric influence — 
to the burning of mountains — to the existence of numerous impalpable atoms 
of decayed vegetation, and has been assimilated to those light gray clouds 
Avhich overhang Peru. Adhuc lis est subjudice. 

POLITICAL AND MORAL CONDITION. 

Having given a summary account of the natural condition of Virginia, 
reserving a more detailed account for the particular counties; Ave uoav pro- 
ceed to give a similar succinct description of the situation of her people, be- 
gining Avith their number and classes. 

POPULATION. 

The number of people in Virginia has been as folloAvs, at the several pe- 
riods mentioned, viz: in 1790, — 747,610 — in 1800, — 880,200 — in 1810 

974,622— in 1820,-1,065,350 — and in 1830, — 1,21 1,375.— At the last pe- 
riod the population was divided as folio avs, among the several counties, viz- 

EASTERN DISTRICT. 

Counties. Population. Comities. Population. 

Accomac, 16,650 Amelia, 11036 

Albemarle, 22,618 Amherst, l'^'o71 



* According to the observations of Dr. Sanders, made near Boston during ten ve"^s 
from January 1 821 to January 1, 1831, there Avere on an average in each yea? 219 
days of fair and MGof cloudy weather. Rain fell more or less on 57 daAS^ Boston 
js on the sea coast, m Int.. 1-20 20-58', and the standing temncrature onhe IcAcl o f 
the sea at that place is betAveen 59= and 60 Fareuhe:t. 



OF VIRGINIA. 



G7 



Counties. PopulationA Couulies. 

Bedford, 20,246 Caroline, - - 

Brunswick, 15,767 Charles City, 

Culpeper, 24,027 Charlotte, 

Cumberland - - - - 1 1,690! Chesterfield, - 

Dinwiddle, 21,901 1 Meclenburg, - 

Elizabeth City, - - - - 5,053 Middlesex, - - 

Essex, 10,521 Nansemond, - 

Fairfax, 9,204 Nelson, - - - 

Fauquier, 26,086 New Kent, 

Fluvanna, - - - - - - 8,221 Norfolk, - - - 

Franklin, 14,911 Northampton, - 

Gloucester, 10,608 Northumberland, 

Goochland, 10,369 Nottoway, - 

Greensville, 7,117 Orange, - - - 

Halifax, 28,034 Patrick, - - - 

Hanover, 16,253 Pittsylvania, - 

Henrico, 28,797 Powhatan, - - 

Henry, 7,100 Prince Edward, 

- - 10,517 Prince George, 



Pop 



Isle of Wight, - - - 

James City, 3,838 

King and Gluesn, - - - 11,644 
King George, ----- 6,397 
King William, - - - - 9,812 

Lancaster, 4,801 

Loudon, 21,939 

Louisa, 16,151, 

Lunenburg, ----- 1 1,957. Sussex, 

MadLson, 9,236 Warwick, 

Mathews, 7,664 Westmoreland, 

Buckingham, - ,- - - 18,351 York, - - 
Campbell, 20,350' 



Prince William, 

Prince Anne, 

Richmond, - 

Southampton, 

Spoitsylvania, 

Stafford, 

Surry, 



ulatioji. 

17,760 

5,500 

15,252 

18,637 

20,477 

4,122 

11,784 

11,254 

6,458 

24,806 

8,641 

7,953 

10,130 

14,637 

7,395 

26,034 

8,517 

14,107 

8,367 

9,330 

9,102 

6,055 

16,074 

15,134 

9,362 

7,109 

12,720 

1,570 

8,396 

5,354 



WESTERN 

Cou7itics. Population. 

Alleghany, 2,816 

Augusta, 19,926 

Bath, 4,002 

Berkeley, .- 10,518 

Botetourt, 16,354 

Brooke, -----'-- 7,041 

Cabell, 5,884 

Frederick, 25,046 

Giles, 5,274 

Grayson, 7,675 

Greenbrier, 9,006 

Harrison, - 14,722 

Hampshire, 11,279 

Hardy, 6,798 

Jefferson, 12,927 

Kanawha, 9,326 

Lee, 6,461 



DISTRICT. 

Counties. Population- 

Lewis, - - 6,241 

Logan, ------- 3,680 

Monongalia, _ - . - - 14,056 

Mason, 6,534 

Monroe, 7,798 

Montgomery, 12,306 

Morgan, 2,694 

Nicholas, 3,346 

Ohio, 15,584 

Page,(formerly E. Shenandoah) 8,327 

Pendleton, 6,271 

Pocahontas, 2,542 

Preston, 5,144 

Randolph, 5,000 

Rockbridge, 14,244 

Rockingham, 20,683 

Russell, 6,714 



68 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Counties. 


Population. 


Counties. 


Population. 






5,724 


Washington 


15,614 


Scott, ------ 

Shenandoah, - - - 


. 


11,423 


Wood, - 


6,429 


Tazewell, - - - - 

T^.rlof . . - - - 


- - 


5,749 
4,104 


Wythe, - 


12,163 


lyler, - - - - 






Total population of Eastern Virginia, 832,980; 


Western Va. 378,425. 


Of the preceding were 


white persons, 








Males. 


Females. 


Under 5 years of 


age, 


65,793 


62,411 


From 5 to 10 




51,805 


49,904 


" 10 to 5 




43,287 


41,936 


" 15 to 2a 




36,947 


40,479 


" 20 to 30 




60,911 


62,044 


" 30 to 40 




36,539 


36,456 


" 40 to 50 




23,381 


23,750 


" 50 to 60 




15,261 


15,447 


" 60 to 70, 




8,971 


8,765 


" 70 to 80 




3,674 


3,857 


" 80 to 90 




1,108 


1,098 


" 90 tolOO 




184 


158 


" 100 and UD 


ware 


s 


26 


98 



Tota), 



S47,887 



346,383 



Of the colored population, were 

Male 
Under 10 years of age, 8,236 



From 10 to 24, 
" 24 to 36, 
" 36 to 55, 

55 to 100, 
" 100 and upwards 

Total, 



6,126 
3,546 
2,721 
1,731 

27 



Free. 

Female. 
8,002 
7,031 
4,501 
3,379 
2,024 
24 



Slaves. 



22,387 



24,961 



RECAPITULATION. 

Free Colored. 
47,343 



Male. 
84,000 
68,917 
43,189 
30,683 
12,155 
133 

239,077 

Slaves. 
469,757 



Female. 
83,270 
66,921 
40,927 
27,206 
12,275 
144 

230,680 

Total: 
1,211,375. 



514,280 
20, 1 24 
345,796—880,200 



331,175 



Whites. 
694,270 
Increase of population : 
In 1800 the white males numbered, 
Free colored, 
Slaves, 

Increase in thirty years. 
Or thirty-seven and a half per cent. 

In the same period, the free whites increased 180,020, or 35 per cent.; 
the free colored persons 27,224, or 135 per cent.; and the slaves, 123,961, 
or 36 percent. For the ten years preceding the census of 1830, the rate 
of increase of the whole population diminished considerably, and the rela- 
tive increase of the several classes varied from the foregoing results. On 
the whole population, the rate was reduced from 37^ to 13^ per cent.; on 



OF VIRGINIA. Gd 

the free wliite, from 35 to 15 per cent. ; on the free colored, from 135 to 28\ 
per cent.; and on the slaves from 36 to 10| per cent. It is to be observed, 
however, that, while the black population of the whole state has been dimin- 
ishing, when compared with the white, the reverse is true in respect to Eas- 
tern Virginia, which is peculiarly the slave region; for, while, in 1790^ 
there was in that district a majority of 25,000 whites, the slave and free 
colored population outnumbered them at every successive census, until, ia 
1830, the excess Avas upwards of 81,000. The facts thus exhibited show 
that Western Virginia, which contains comparatively few slaves, has rapidly 
increased its white population in the last tesr^-ears, the rate of increase 
amounting to 25 per cent, ; while, on the eastern side of the mountains, the 
increase of the Avhites, in the same period, did not exceed 7-^ per cent. The 
greater multiplication of blacks in Eastern Virginia, notwithstanding con- 
stant deportation to the southern and southwestern states, may be partly as* 
cribed to the mild treatment which they generally receive from their own- 
ers. On the other hand, the evil effects of slavery, and the policy of adopt- 
ing some scheme for gradual abolition, are topics which have been freely 
and earnestly discussed, and have already arrayed the Virginians into two. 
powerful parties. The slow progress of the white population, compared 
with some of the other states, when so many propitious causes exist for its. 
advancement, has been urged as a prominent objection to slavery. Indeed^, 
the march of its aggregate population has fallen far short of the predictions 
of former times. Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes, which were written in 1782,. 
estimated that the then existing stock, unaided by foreign emigration, would 
be multiplied to 2,270,000 by the year 1835, exceeding, by upwards of a^ 
million, the result of the last census. That the increase of numbers has. 
been restrained by powerful checks seems reasonable; but to point out their- 
true character and operation, belongs rather to the department of moral ancB 
political philosophy. 

This state is now divided into one hundred and eleven counties; whereof 
sixty-six are on the eastern side, and forty-five on the western side of the- 
Blue Ridge mountains. Six new covmties having been added since the tak- 
ing of the last census, and revision of the constitution ; they were erected 
by act of Assembly 1831-2, viz: — Page county, formed out of parts off 
Shenandoah and Rockingham — Rappahannock, formed out of a part of 
Culpeper county — Smj^th, formed out of Washington and Wythe — Floyd, 
from a part of Montgomery — Jackson, out of part of Mason, Kanawha and! 
Wood — and Fayette, formed out of parts of Greenbrier, Nicholas, and Ka-- 
nawha counties. 



GOVERNMENT AND LAWS. 

Constitution. — The first constitution of this state was formed and adopt- 
ed in 1776,.. and continued in operation until October, 1829, when a conven- 
tion met at Richmond to alter and amend it, or frame a new one: on the 
14th of January, 1830, the present constitution was adopted by a vote of 55 
to 40. The amended constitution on being submitted to the legal voters of 
the state Avas ratified by a majority of 10,492 votes, as appears by the fol- 
lowing statement: 



70 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 





For. 


Against. 


Transalleghany District, 


2,123 


11,289 


Valley 


3,842 


2,097 


Middle " 


12,417 


1,080 


Tide-Water " 


7,073 


1,091 



Total, 



20,055 



15,503 



Legislaturk. — The first election of members of the House of Delegates, 
and Senate, under the amended constitution, took place on the several court 
days in the month of October, 1830, in the different counties and boroughs 
entitled to representation : and the first General Assembly convened at 
Richmond on the first Monday in December, 1831. 

By this constitution the legislative power is vested in a Senate and a 
House of Delegates, which are together styled the General Assembly of 
Virginia. The House of Delegates consists of 134 members chosen an- 
nually; — 31 from the Trans-Alleghany district; — 25 from the Valley dis- 
trict; — 42 from the Middle district; — and 30 from the Tidewater district. 
The Senate consists of 32 members;- — 13 from the counties Vv'est of the 
Blue Ridge; — and 19 from the country east of that mountain. The Sena- 
tors are elected for four years, and the seats of one-fourth are vacated each 
year. — In all elections to any office or place of trust, honor, or emolument; 
the votes are given viva voce. — A reapportionment* in both houses, is to tabe 
place every ten years, commencing in 1841; until which time there is to be 
no change in the number of delegates and senators from the several divi- 
sions; and after 1841 the number of delegates is never to exceed 150, or 
that of senators 30. 

Executive. — The executive power is vested in a Governor elected by 
the joint vote of the two houses of the General Assembly. He holds it 
three years, commencing the 31st of March after his election, or on such 
other day as may be from time to time prescribed by law; and he is ineligi- 
ble for the thi'ee years next after the expiration of his term of office. There 
is a Council of State, consisting of three members, elected for three years by 
the joint vote of the two houses; the seat of one being vacated annually. 
The senior covmsellor is Lieutenant Governor. 

The present executive officers are 

L. W. Tazewell, Governor, 

Daniel A. Wilson, Lieut. Governor, ) 

Wyndham Robertson, > CoinicU. 

Peter V. Daniel, ) 

Lawson Burfoot, Treasurer of State, 

James E. Heath, Auditor, 

James Brown, Jr., Second Auditor, 

William Selden, Register of the Land Office. 

Judiciary. — The Judges of the Supreme Court of Appeals, and of the 
Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery, are elected by joint vote of 
both houses of the General Assembly, and hold their offices during good 
behavior, or until removed by a concurrent vote of both houses; but two- 
thirds of the members present must concur in such vote, and the cause of 
remoA'al be entered on the journals of each house. 



OF VIRGINIA. 71 

The present Court of Appeals consists of 

Salary. 

Henry St. Georjre Tucker, President, 2,720 

Francis T. Brooke, Judge, 2,500 

William H. Cabell, do. 2,500 

Wm. Brockcnbrough, do. 2,500 

Dabney Carr, do. 2,500 

The Judges are entitled to receive, in addition to their salaries, 25 cents 
a mile for necessary travel. The Court of Appeals holds two sessions annu- 
ally; one at Lcwlxburg, Greenbrier county, for the counties lying west of 
the Blue Ridge, commencing on the 1st Monday in July, and conti- 
nuing 90 days, unless the business shall be sooner despatched; the 
other at Richmond, for the counties lying east of the Blue Ridge, commenc- 
ing at such times as the court may, from time to time, appoint, and continu- 
ing 160 days, unless the business shall be sooner despatched. 

General Court. — 'The state is divided into 10 districts, and each district 
into two circuits, and a Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery is held 
twice every year in each county and corporation ; the courts sitting until the 
business is despatched. 

There are 20 Judges, having each a salary of $1,500, and their names, 
with the number of their respective circuits, are as follows : 

1. Richard F. Baker, 8. William Daniel, 15. Benjamin Estill, 

2. John F. May, 9. ¥7illiam Leigh, 16. James E. Brown, 

3. Abel P. Upshur, 10. Fleming Saunders, 17. Allen Taylor, 

4. William Brown, 11. Richard H. Field, 18. Edward D. Duncan, 

5. J. T. Lomax, 12. Lucas P. Thompson, 19. Lewis Summers, 

6. John Scott, 13. Richard E. Parker, 20. Joseph L. Fry. 

7. John B. Clopton, 14. Daniel Smith, 

County Courts. — -Justices of the Peace Avho constitute these Courts are 
elected by the Governor, upon nomination of the existing County Courts. 
Four Justices constitute a Court for the trial of civil, and five for criminal 
causes. Their civil jurisdiction in law and equitj^ is concurrent with 
that of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery in cases of trover 
or dctimie, and others involving greater value than $50; and below that 
amount but over $20, it is exclusive. Their criminal jurisdiction is con» 
current with that of the same Court in petit larceny, and all other offences 
of free persons not exceeding the grade of misdemeanors, and in the case 
of slaves exclusive as to all offences. The Justices receive no compensa- 
tion ; but the lucrative office of Sheriff is conferred upon one of their body, 
generally the eldest Justice, and for two successive years, when he gives 
way to the next oldest in commission, <fcc. These Courts arc established by 
the Constitution, but their jurisdiction, is settled by law. 

Right of Suffkage is extended to every white male citizen of the 
commonwealth, resident therein, aged 21 years and upAvards; who was 
qualified to exercise the right under the former constitution and laws: — or 
who own a freehold of the value of $25; — or who has a joint interest worth 
$25, in a freehold; — or who has a reversion, or vested remainder in fee 
expectant on an estate for life or years; of which he shall have been pos- 
sessed for six,months, unless obtained by descent, devise, or marriage; — or 
who shall own and be in occupation of a leasehold estate, recorded two 



72 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

months before he oflers to vote, of an annual Aahie of $20, and original du- 
ration of at least 5 years; — or who has been housekeeper or head of a 
family for 12 months, and been assessed with, and has paid taxes. 

But paupers, persons of unsound mind, non-commissioned officers, sol- 
diers, seamen and marines of the U, States, and persons convicted of infa- 
mous offences cannot vote. 

As connected with this subject we insert here the Civil List of Vir- 
ginia; — prepared in compliance with a resolution of the House of Dele- 
gates of the 8th of March, 1833. 

CIVIL LIST, 

'^heicing ihe nature and extent of the duties of each officer of the Govcr?t- 
ment and their Salaries. 

Governor, salary $3333 83. — -The governor is ex-officio president of the 
literary fund, the board of public works, the James river company, and the 
northwestern turnpike company, for which several services he receives no 
additional compensation. 

Lieutenant Governor, $1000; two Councillors, $1000 each. — The lieu- 
tenant-governor is not now a director of either of these boards. In case of 
the death or resignation of the governor, he is entitled to the chief magis- 
trate's salary in lieu of his own. Neither the lieutenant-governor, nor the 
other members of the council, have any perquisites of office. 

Secretary of the Commonwealth, $1620 00; Assistant Clerk, $1000 00; 
Copying Clerk, $200 00. — The secretary or clerk of the executive depart- 
ment is also keeper of the seals and librarian, by virtue of his office. He 
is entitled to a fee of $1 67 upon each testimonial granted from the execu- 
tive department, and to commissions, at the discretion of the joint library 
•committee, upon sales or exchanges of books belonging to the library fund. 
These perquisites, it is understood, are very inconsiderable. Neither the 
assistant nor copying clerk is entitled to any other compensation besides his 
'salary. 

Clerk of the Council, $500 00: — Keeps the journal of the council, and 
performs various other duties, for Avhich he has no perquisites. 

Door-Keeper to the Council, $500 00. — The door-keeper to the council 
is also keeper of the capitol keys, but is entitled to no compensation besides 
his regular salary. The incidental expenses of the execntive depart- 
ment during the past fiiscal year, amounted to $1,193 61, including fuel, 
stationery and postage. 

President of the Court of Appeals, $2750 00; Four Judges of the 
Court of Appeals, $2,500 each. — The president and judges are entitled, ex- 
clusive of their salaries, to twenty cents per mile for travelling to and from 
the respective courts they arc required to attend. 

Clerk Eastern Court, $1000 00: Clerk Western Court, $1000 00.— 
This allowance of $1,000 to each of the clerks of the court of appeals, is 
the maximum fixed by law, but the judges may in their discretion reduce 
it. The clerks are entitled to their regular fees from individuals, but to no 
other compensation from the state. The judges are authorized to appoint 
a crier and tipstaff to each of the courts held at Richmond and Lewisburg, 
and to fix their compensation. The crier at Richmond received, during the 
last fiscal year, $729, and the tipstafl^ $608 31 : and the incidental expenses 



OF VIRGINIA. T3 

for fuel, stationery, iScc. amounted, in the same period, to $193. The con- 
tingent expenses at Lewisburg, owing to the short terms of the court, are 
very inconsitierable. 

Twenty Judges of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery, 
nineteen at $1,500, and one at 81,800. — The judge of the superior court 
of Henrico receives $1,800 annual salary. The other judges, $1,500 each; 
and all are entitled to 15 cents per mile for travelling through their circuits 
and to the general court. 

Clerk of the General Court, $500 00. — The fees of the clerk of the 
general court are very inconsiderable. 

Attorney Superior Court Henrico, $300 00 ; Clerk Superior Court Hen- 
rico, $100 00. — An act concerning the superior court of Henrico, passed 
29th March, 1823, fixes the compensation of the attorney and clerk of that 
court, and makes them, in effect, salaried officers. The clerk is moreover 
entuled to his fees for services rendered the commonwealth, which will pro- 
bably average about $40 per annum. 

Attorney Genera], $1000 00. — The attorney general is entitled to fees 
when recovered from defendants; but owing to the diminished number of 
judgments against public debtors, his fees have not averaged more than $40 
per annum for the last two years. 

Treasurer, $2000 00. — The treasurer is ex-officio a director of the board 
of public works, the James river company, the literary fund, and the north- 
western turnpike company. He is moreover, by virtue of his office, a di- 
rector of the Virgniia bank, and treasurer of the Cincinnati fund, which is 
in his possession. He has no perquisites of office. 

First Clerk, $900 00. — The first clerk of the treasurer has charge of the 
books in which the accounts of the commonwealth are kept, distinguished 
from those which relate to speciffic funds, the latter being confided to the 
second clerk. Both, however, perform indiscriminately the current duties 
of the office. The incidental expenses of the treasury office during the last 
fiscal year, embracing fuel, stationery, sweeper, &c. amounted to $152 38. 

Auditor of Public Accounts, $2000 00. — The auditor is ex-officio a di- 
rector of the James river company, the board of public works, the literary 
fund, and the northwestern turnpike company. He is also, in conjunction 
with the governor, lieutenant-governor, and second auditor, one of the com- 
missioners for transporting the free people of color. He has no perquisites 
nor extra compensation, except a fee of 50 cents for each redemption of de- 
linquent land. The late laws on that subject have reduced these fees to an 
average of thirty or forty dollars per annum. His general duties are to 
audit all claims against the commonweaUh, and to collect and disburse the 
public revenue. 

Clerk of Accounts, $1400 00. — The clerk of accounts has in his pecu- 
liar charge the public books of account, prepares all the revenue statements 
and the lists of balances, and performs a variety of duties connected with 
his department. 

First Clerk, $900 00. — The first clerk represents the auditor in his ab- 
sence, and during such time, is entitled to extra compensation at the rate of 
$166 67 per annum. He has special charge of the vouchers upon which 
warrants are issued, assists the auditor in the revenue settlements, and per- 
forms various other duties. 

Second Clerk, $750 00; Third Clerk, $600 00.— The second clerk has 
charge of the delinquent land lists, and in common Avith the third clerk, 
10 



74 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

performs a variety of duties appertaining to the current business, such as 
examining and correcting commmissioners' books, insolvents in the revenue, 
and militia fines, &c. &c. The auditor is also authorized to employ an ex- 
tra clerk, in his discretion, at the rate of $50 per month, growing out of 
the accumulated labors of the office from revolutionary claims, &c. The 
incidental expenses of the office in the last fiscal year, including stationery, 
fuel, and sweeper, and excluding postage, amounted to $280 75. The post- 
age alone amounted to i^ 1,050. 

Second Auditor, $1800 00. — The second auditor is an ex-officio director 
of the James river company, board of public works, literary fund, and north- 
western turnpike company, and audits all the accounts appertaining thereto. 
He is moreover superintendent of the literary fund, and clerk to the board 
of directors. He is also ex-officio secretary to the board of public Avorks, 
and one of the commissioners for removing free people of color. He is 
entitled to no extra compensation. 

First Clerk, $900 00; Second Clerk, $600 00.— The first clerk repre- 
sents the second auditor in his absence, and when necessary, acts as clerk 
to the literary fund, and secretary to the board of public works; keeps the 
books of the James river company and board of public works, and assists 
the second auditor in the current business. The second clerk keeps the 
books of the literary fund and northwestern turnpike company, and attends 
to other duties. The incidental expenses of the office, and of the several 
boards connected therewith, for the past fiscal year, embracing, fuel, statione- 
ry, sweeper, pay of m.essengers, and clerks of boards, postage, printing, and 
miscellaneous expenses, amounted to $1,172 64. 

Register of the Land Office, $1500 00. — The register's duties are prin- 
cipally defined in the genei'al revised land law of 1st March, 1819. He 
has no perquisifes, his fees of office being required to be paid into the trea- 
sury. 

First Clerk of the Land Office, $900 00. — The first clerk receives and 
examines surveys, &c. and issues grants, &c. 

Second Clerk, $600. — The second clerk is engaged principally in record- 
ing. The incidental expenses of the land office the past fiscal year, including 
fuel, stationery, parchment for grants, and sweeper, amounted to $625 29. 

Public Printer, $2600 00.— "$1,000 of the public printer's salary is paid 
quarterly. The residue annually, after the completion of the sessions acts. 
The salary is exclusive of extra printing. The amount paid during the 
last fiscal year for printing legislative documents, extra copies of the acta 
and journals of the library, «fcc. &c. amounted to $1,836 64, which is pro- 
bably about a fair annual average. 

Superintendent of the Penitentiary, $2000 00 : First and Second Assist- 
ant Keepers $700 each; Third, Fourth, Firth, Sixth, and Seventh Assist- 
ant Keepers, $000 each. — Neither the keeper nor assistant keepers receive 
any extra compensation. The auditor is not informed as to the particular 
distribution of duties among the assistants. The 6th and 7th assistants 
were for the first time so denominated in the act of 8th March, 1833. They 
were previously called turnkey and delivery clerk. 

Clerk, $600 00. — The clerk keeps the accounts of the institution, and 
acts as clerk to the board of directors. He has no perquisites. 

Five Directors, at $150 each. — The directors are paid annually, at thcx 
rate of $3 per day, for each day's attendance; not to exceed $150. 

Surgeon to the Penitentiary and Public Guard, $900 00. — Attends the 



OF VIRGINIA. 75 

sick convicts at the penitentiary and soldiers of the public guard, and is en- 
titled to no perquisites of ofiice. 

General Agent or Store-Keeper to the Penitentiary. — The agent for sel- 
ling penitentiarjr manufactures is allowed a commission of seven per cen- 
tum upon sales, in lieu of salaries to himself and clerks. 

Adjutant General, 8500 00. — For the various laws respecting the adju- 
tant general, see 1 Rev. Code, pages 94. 95, 96 and 98, and Supplement, 
pages 60, 64, 81 and 84. 

Vaccine Agent, 8500 00. — The allowance is paid semi-annually, on the 
order of the executive. The auditor is informed by the agent that there are 
numerous applications for vaccine matter. No perquisites of office. 

Superintendant of the Westham Magazine, $150 00. — It is understood 
that no duties are nov/ required of this officer, the magazine not being used. 

Keeper of the Rolls and Clerk of the House of Delegates, 8200 00. — 
The clerk of the house of delegates is ex-officio keeper of the rolls, and it 
is in the latter character, that he is entitled to the stated salary of $200 per 
annum. As clerk, his allowance was fixed at 6150 per week, by the act of 
16th February, 1822. Out of this weekly allowance, the clerk" of the 
house of delegates employs an assistant in the office during the sessions of 
the legislature, and defrays the expense of enrolling and engrossing the acts. 
Besides his official duties during the session, he is required after the ad- 
journment of the legislature, to arrange and cause to be published, with 
marginal notes and indexes, the laws of that body. His perquisites consist 
in fees for certified copies of the acts of assembly; but it is understood that 
they amount to a very inconsiderable sum. The incidental expenses of the 
office of the clerk during the last fiscal year, including fuel, stationery for 
the house of delegates, binding journals, parchment, &c. amounted to 
$333 48.— Total amount of Civil List, $74,553 33. 

Though not strictly within the terms of the resolution of the house 
of delegates, it is perhaps required by its spirit, that the allowances to the 
officers of the general assembly, so far as they have been fixed by law, 
should be added. 

The speaker of the senate is entitled, under the act of 16th February, 
1822, to $G per day, mileag.e and ferriages. The speaker of the house of 
delegates, to $8 per day, mileage and ferriages. The clerk of the senate, 
to $75 per week. The sergeant at arms to the senate, to $30 per week. 
The sergeant of the house of delegates, to $28 per week, and fees for ar- 
rests. The clerks of each of the committees to the house of delegates, to 
$35 per week. The door keepers to both houses, each to $28 per week. 
The printer to the senate, to $500 for the session. The only clerks of com- 
mittees of the house of delegates, whose allowances were fixed by the act 
of 16th February, 1822, were those of propositions and grievances, elections 
and claims, courts of justice, and roads and navigation. Other clerks of 
committees have been occasionally appointed, and their wages paid by a 
special clause in the annual appropriation law. 

It may also be proper to add, that pursuant to the resolution of the gene- 
ral assembly of 21st February, 1833, the executive has employed an agent 
to examine certain revolutionary documents, with a salary of $1,200 per 
annum. 

LAWS. 

On the third of July. 1776, the convention which met to adnpi a constitu- 



76 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

tion for the stale, having declared it independent, passed an ordinance de- 
claring that " The common law of England, all statutes or acts of Parlia- 
ment made in aid thereof prior to (he fourth year of the reign of King 
James the first, and which were of a general nature and not local to th?xt 
kingdom, should be considered as in full force, until the same should be 
altered by the Legislature." 

After this the Legislature re-enacted by special acts all of llie statutes of 
the British Parliament which they thought applicable and necessary ; and 
on the '27th December, 1792, declared that no statute or act of Parliament 
should have any force or authority within this commonwealth, — saving all 
judicial and remedial writs which might have been sued out before that act. 

The common law, the constitution and statutes of Virginia, the constitu- 
tion of the United States and the laws and treaties made in pursuance thereof, 
constitute the whole law of Virginia. 

RELIGION. 

Although the bill of rights, in 177G, declared that all men were equally 
entitled to the free exercise of religion, according to the dictates of con- 
science, yet the first constitution contained no express provision on the sub- 
ject. The legislature, in 1785, passed an act for establishing religious free- 
dom, and subsequently repealed all laws which recognized the Protestant 
Episcopal Church as the legal establishment. The glebe lands, and other 
church property, were vested in the overseers of the poor, for charitable 
uses, reserving only to the living incumbents an estate for life, and exempt- 
ing the church buildings from confiscation. The new constitution of 1830 
fully recognises absolute religious freedom as a part of the fundamental 
law. The Episcopal church, Avhich, after the loss of its revenues, suflercd 
almost total extinction in Virginia, has revived, in the last twenty years, by 
the voluntary support of its friends, and is now distinguished by numerous 
and wealthy members, and by a pious and intelligent clergy. In 1834 the 
number of ministers in the State, including two bishops, was 50, churches, 
58, and 2840 communicants. In the same year, the Presbyterians num- 
bered 117 churches, 100 ministers, 11,413 commvmicants; the Methodists, 
168 ministers, communicants 34,316 whites, and 7,447 colored, total 41,763; 
the Baptists, 261 ministers, churches 450, and communicats 54,302, of 
whom it is conjectured that one-half are slaves. The precise distinction be- 
tween the regular Baptists and the Reformers, called the disciples of Christ, 
not being in all cases drawn, there is no coming to any thing like certain 
knowledge, but it is supposed they do not exceed 10,000 in number, neither 
are they so systematically arrayed as to afford any accuracy in their statis- 
tics, either as to the number of teachers, congregations, meeting-houses, 
&c. Attempts are now being made for a better arrangement of their af- 
fairs. The increase of new members, for the last two or three j-ears, has 
been so great that it has not been possible to keep pace with the demand 
for preachers, meeting-houses, &c. They have advanced in the U. States, 
withm 10 years, from a few in number, to something like 150,000. The 
Catholics have 5 ministers, and 10 congregations; but the number of lay 
members is not ascertained. It will be perceived that the Baptists and Me- 
thodists are the most numerous sects in the state; and the estimate docs not 
include a considerable nimibcr of separatists from both communions. Be- 
sides these, there arc Friendrs, Lutherans, Dunkers, Unitarians, Jews, <S:c. 



OF VIRGINIA. 77 

scattered through the state, whose numbers are not accurately known. The 
Presbyterians have a theological seminary in Prince Edward, and the Epis- 
copalians one near Alexandria, both of which institutions have flourished 
by private liberality. The state, in its political capacity, has always mani- 
fested a strong jealousy of all ecclesiastical establishments; yet the Virgi- 
nians are generous in private contributions towards objects of religion and 
benevolence. Sunday schools, and societies for promoting temperance, Af- 
rican colonization, &c., have been extensively patronized in late years. 

EDUCATION. 

Literary Fund. — This Fund was established by the Legislature in 
1809, by devoting the proceeds of all escheats, fines, and forfeitures, to the 
encouragement of learning. In 1816 it was encreased by the liberal appro- 
priation of the debt due from the United States to Virginia, on accovxnt of 
advances made by the State in the late war with Great Britain. The per- 
manent capital of this fund amounted, in September, 1833, to $1,5.51,857 47 
Of this there was invested in stocks, loans and debts, - $1,551,803 34 



Leaving in the treasury to the credit of the fund, - - 54 1 1 

To Avhich balance must be added the undrawn school 

quotas, amounting to - - $20,256 74 

First deducting the amt. invested in bank stock, of 7,150 00 



13,106 74 



Which leaves a total balance to the credit of the fund of $13,160 87 

The revenue arising from this fund amounted, in 1833, to $78,340 61 
Of which there was expended - - - 62,927 18 



Leaving a balance, to encrease the capital, of - $15,413 43 

When the Legislature appropriated the United States debt to this fund, 
it at the same time gave $230,000, and an annuity of $15,000 from the fund, 
to the University of Virginia. 

Primary Schools. — The sum of $45,000 annually has been appropri- 
ated from the revenue of the Literary Fund, to the different counties, in pro- 
portion to their white population, for the sole purpose of instructing poor 
children in the elements of learning. This sum is placed under the manage- 
ment and control of School Commissioners, appointed by the Court of each 
county. 

The primary school system has been modified from time to time since its es- 
tablishment, — and is now under the control of the Second Auditor, who 
renders an annual report to the Legislature, of the disbursement of the fund, 
founded on the returns of the county commissioners. — As the public boun- 
ty is confined to the oflspring of indigent parents, a plan is now partially in 
operation, by which contributions may be received from individuals to es- 
tablish schools free for all classes of pupils; and strong hope is entertained 
that the experiment will prove successful, notwithstanding the difficulties 
Avhich arise from the mixed population of one portion of the state, and the 
scattered population and rugged surface of the other. Experience has al- 
ready demonstrated the utility of even the existing system, and thousands 
Avho must have groped through life in the darkness of ignorance, have had 
the cheering light of knowledge shed upon them by means of the primary 



7S 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



schools. We annex the Second Auditor's abstract of the number of poor 
children taught in each county, the expense, &lc. for the year 1832-3: 

ABSTRACT of School Commissioners'' Reports for the year 1832, receiv- 
ed betiveeji 30th September, 1832, and 1st October, 1833. 





c 


"a . 




o 
c 


•c o 










COUNTIES 


E 


c 2 


c 


c 


2 


■3 5 


■5 


— -3 

3 




AND 


E . 

§5 


E=- 


■a 


■3 




E<3 


c 

c • 
o 2^ 


c — 


— o 


TOWNS. 




0-=' 

'^ -a 
= 1 


o 3 


o . 




= £-3 




J; = c. 


'■5 3 








, o 


. o 






£ M 


» S ^> 


c,2 




C.S 


c " 


c " 


C VI 


tuS-a 


> i " 


a "^ 


> CO 


X -• 




^ 


?; 


Z 


r, 


< 


<- « 


K 


< 


K 


Albemarle, 


15 


49 


600 


181 


13020 


71 


4 cts. 


i&3 15 


S570 74 


Amelia, 


8 


13 


120 


49 


6147 


125 


4 


5 57 


273 08 


Amherst, 


15 


25 


250 


85 


5383 


63 


4 


2 87 


243 74 


Alleghany, 


8 


10 


80 


42 


2016 


48 


4 


2 08 


87 29 


Accomac, 


12 


30 


750 


256 


14895 


54 


31 


2 31 


592 22 


Augusta, 


15 


65 


600 


437 


21003 


48 


4 


2 02 


883 59 


Bath, 


10 


17 


100 


99 


3901 


39 


3* 


1 44 


142 53 


Bedford, 


15 


29 


450 


338 


19656 


58 


4* 


2 55 


861 65 


Berkeley, 


15 


34 


530 


349 


24518 


70 


3i 


2 45 


854 14 


Botetourt, 


13 


45 


325 


300 


22843 


76 


4 


3 28 


982 58 


Brooke, 


9 


29 


410 


268 


19383 


72 


2i 


1 98 


530 13 


Buckingham, 


10 


G5 


250 


136 


11188 


84 


4 


3 67 


498 90 


Brunswick, 


- 


_ 


— 


— 

















Cabell, 


7 


17 


200 


117 


6399 


55 


4 


2 40 


280 76 


Campbell, 


8 


29 


350 


115 


59G8 


52 


4 


2 12 


244 57 


Caroline, 


8 


29 


450 


157 


11577 


74 


4 


3 31 


519 88 


Charles City, 


_ 


_ 























Charlotte, 


8 


23 


300 


95 


8072 


85 


4 


3 79 


360 16 


Chesterfield, 


11 


30 


500 


178 


14042 


79 


4 


3 38 


601 65 


Culpeper, 


15 


49 


500 


330 


22927 


69 


4 


3 07 


1012 93 


Cumberland, 


9 


20 


100 


91 


8647 


95 


4 


4 14 


376 73 


Dinwiddle, 


1-2 


20 


120 


61 


9658 


158 


4 


6 77 


412 94 


Essex, 


7 


12 


300 


56 


4420 


79 


4 


3 26 


183 92 


Elizabeth City, 


7 


2 


50 


21 


776 




4 


2 16 


45 39 


Fairfax, 


9 


23 


500 


183 


10650 


58 


4 


2 38 


435 50 


Fauquier, 


- 


- 


— 


— 


— 


— 





— 





Franklin, 


9 


24 


500 


285 


14093 


49 


3J 


1 82 


518 50 


Fayette, 


- 


- 


— 


— 


— 


— 




— 





Frederick, 


9 


100 


650 


428 


31500 


74 


4 


2 77 


1186 85 


Floyd, 


6 


6 


150 


33 


1444 


44 


4 


3 20 


105 52 


Fluvanna, 


8 


18 


100 


43 


3711 


86 


4 


3 88 


166 83 


Grayson, 


7 


41 


350 


307 


13010 


42 


4 


1 77 


544 15 


Greenbrier, 


10 


20 


500 


239 


12106 


50 


4 


2 25 


537 90 


Greensville, 


- 


_ 




















Giles, 


6 


19 


225 


123 


7342 


57 


3i 


2 20 


281 66 


Gloucester, 


14 


15 


160 


36 


2645 


73 


4 


3 48 


125 42 


Goochland, 


11 


25 


250 


57 


6030 


108 


4 


4 60 


262 57 


Halifax, 


12 


60 


lOOO 


242 


16541 


69 


4 


2 91 


704 21 


Hampshire, 


14 


48 


800 


545 


22048 


40 


4 


1 67 


912 14 


Hanover, 


12 


50 


350 


36 


3486 


97 


4 


4 59 


165 20 


Hardy, 


15 


21 


250 


100 


7646 


76 


4 


3 32 


332 23 


Harrison, 


15 


86 


900 


754 


36200 


48 


2i 


1 29 


976 13 


Henry, 


5 


10 


90 


65 


4312 


66 


3i 


2 30 


149 52 


Henrico, 


— 


_ 





















Isle of Wight, 


10 


29 


350 


198 


9902 


50 


4 


2 24 


442 98 


James City, 


- 


- 


— 


— 


— 


— 




— 





OF VIRGINIA. 



79 



Jackson j 
Jefferson, 
Kanawha, 
Kin? &. Q,ueen, 
King George, 
King William, 
Lancaster, 

Lewis, 

Logan, 

Loudon, 

Louisa, 

Lunenburg, 

Madison, 

Mason, 

Matthews, 

Mecklenburg, 

Middlesex, 

Monongalia, 

Monroe, 

Montgomery, 

Morgan, 

Nansemond, 

Nelson, 

New Kent, 

Nicholas, 

Norfolk County, 

Norfolk Borough, 

Northampton, 

Northumberland, 

Nottoway, 

Orange, 

Ohio, 

Patrick, 

Page, 

Pendleton, 

Preston, 

Petersburg, 

Prince Edward, 

Prince George, 

Prince William, 

Princess Anne, 

Pittsylvania, 

Powhatan, 

Pocahontas, 

Randolph, 

Richmond County, 

Richmond City, 

Rockbridge, 

Rockingham, 

Russell, 

Stafford, 

Shenandoah, 

Scott, 

Smyth, 

Southampton, 

Spottsylvania, 

Surry 

Sussex, 

Tazewell, 

Tyler, 

Washington, 

Warwick, 

Westmoreland, 

Willianxsburg, 



14 


31 


350 


217 


17105 


78 


4 


3 25 


705 26 


14 


24 


450 


29S 


19217 


64 


4 


2 73 


814 72 


9 


25 


200 


117 


7129 


61 


4 


2 73 


320 22 


6 


8 


150 


56 


5766 


103 


4 


4 46 


249 92 


7 


22 


200 


07 


5418 


81 


4 


3 52 


236 10 


9 


8 


150 


45 


250(^ 


56 


4 


2 84 


117 91 


10 


21 


500 


163 


9726 


60 


f 


2 48 


404 34 


9 


34 


500 


235 


11654 


50 


■21 


1 30 


304 99 


15 


75 


900 


420 


29383 


70 


4 


2 96 


1230 18 


12 


27 


250 


123 


12260 


100 


4 


4 10 


505 13 


11 


15 


300 


83 


6256 


75 


4 


3 40 


282 41 


9 


15 


200 


78 


5984 


76 


4 


3 18 


248 10 


9 


19 


175 


127 


6697 


53 


3f 


2 23 


283 41 


6 


13 


90 


62 


6975 


112 


3 


3 55 


220 29 


10 


80 


300 


151 


14282 


94 


4 


4 14 


625 62 


9 


10 


150 


133 


11359 


85 


4 


4 06 


539 91 


9 


80 


1000 


637 


32341 


51 


2i 


1 39 


889 15 


11 


25 


450 


192 


10454 


54 


3j 


2 05 


395 40 


8 


9 


300 


68 


4745 


70 


4 


3 05 


207 44 


6 


9 


150 


66 


3783 


57 


3| 


2 46 


162 75 


11 


20 


150 


66 


5373 


81 


4 


3 60 


238 51 


7 


18 


247 


57 


36S9 


65 


4 


2 96 


169 06 


9 


9 


150 


28 


2037 


73 


4 


3 65 


102 22 


7 


18 


150 


99 


5214 


52 


3 


1 82 


179 80 


8 


83 


300 


154 


11423 


74 


4 


3 13 


482 36 


6 


30 


100 


80 


22436 


280 


n 


4 28 


343 55 


9 


16 


130 


99 


6835 


69 


4 


3 00 


297 65 


9 


17 


190 


89 


5331 


58 


4 


2 73 


242 89 


8 


16 


150 


40 


5390 


135 


4 


6 19 


247 70 


11 


40 


240 


90 


7745 


86 


4 


3 70 


333 78 


10 


40 


500 


282 


23032 


81 


21-13 


1 84 


520 06 


12 


19 


150 


135 


8786 


65 


3 


2 09 


281 92 


6 


20 


250 


109 


5469 


50 


4 


2 17 


237 25 


15 


36 


400 


356 


14298 


40 


3i 


1 45 


515 43 


7 


23 


220 


190 


9374 


49 


3 


1 61 


306 14 


12 


18 


200 


30 


6900 


230 


3 


7 62 


228 57 


10 


15 


150 


38 


3008 


79 


4 


3 33 


126 45 


11 


12 


120 


26 


3028 


116 


4 


5 30 


137 80 


8 


18 


400 


178 


11655 


65 


4 


2 81 


500 18 


8 


14 


200 


50 


6124 


124 


4 


2 36 


267 94 


15 


54 


iioo 


368 


19752 


54 


3f 


2 26 


830 63 


6 


20 


80 


23 


2596 


113 


4 


4 64 


106 84 


5 


17 


120 


100 


6018 


60 


3 


2 11 


211 29 


9 


23 


350 


197 


7947 


40 


3J 


1 37 


280 64 


9 


45 


400 


70 


15750 


225 


3? 


8 42 


497 70 


12 


44 


460 


320 


21692 


67 


3i 


2 73 


873 76 


13 


85 


700 


351 


22510 


64 


31 


2 54 


890 05 


8 


17 


300 


187 


11608 


62 


3 


2 24 


418 44 


9 


15 


250 


152 


8299 


54 


3} 


2 00 


305 11 


13 


82 


800 


522 


35675 


68 


4 


2 89 


1512 61 


7 


23 


475 


143 


5592 


39 


4 


1 69 


242 61 



26 

30 

9 

25 



250 
200 
130 
200 



212 
120 

80 
95 



12203 

8961 
8449 
7919 



57 4 

75 4 

105 4 

83 4 



2 43 

3 35 

4 67 
3 57 



20 450 216 



37 



20 



10958 
198 
239 



51 2 



1 20 



40 4 



60 4 



4 08 
3 14 



515 45 
403 39 
374 27 
338 95 



259 46 
20 42 
12 56 



80 



GENERAL DESCllIPTION 



Wythe, 

Wood, 

York, 



10 

9 



29 
34 
11 



250 159 

400 288 
120 83 



9437 

11(;27 

70:20 



2833 32804 16689 1083105 
12 3 4' 



59 3i 
40 3 

48 4 



2 35 
1 27 

3 52 



373 53 
306 34 

292 G8 

42033 06 



RECAPITULATION. 

Number of schools in 100 counties and towns, as per column 1, - 2,833 

Number of poor children in ditto, as per column 2, - - - - 32,804 

Number of poor children sent to common schools in ditto, as per 

column 3, 16,669 

Number sent to district schools, as per statement A, - - 412 

Total number of poor children educated, - - 17,081 

Amount expended for tuition at commoii schools, and all other 
expenses, for books, compensation to officers, &c. as per col- 
umn 5, --....... 42,033 06 

Ditto, at district free schools, as per statement A, - 963 21 

Total expenditure for tuition, &c. - - - $42,996 27 

Average number of days actual attendance of each poor child 

at common schools, ---.---... 65 

Average amount paid for each poor child, including books and 
writing materials, clerks' and treasurers' compensation, at 
common schools, ---.......^2 52i 

Ditto, at district free schools, per statement A, 2 33| 

Average rate paid for each day's actual attendance at common 
schools, including books, &c. and officers' compensation, - - - 3 9-10 

STATEMENT A. 

Abstract of School Commissio7icrs' Reports, shcunng the operations of the 
District Free Schools, in the Counties iyi which they have been establish- 
ed, dwrijig the year etiding oOth September, 1832;' 

^ ^i ^S M" 3 g ^2o ^ 

".y 2'o 2:5 a - ^^ f ±^ 

COUNTIES. -5 2 ^ g-^ £^ " 5 §Sg2 o 

" y^ Sr'£ <A c^rn -^m' ^. ° B'-'^ o, 

•^ i^_. s|i s| i^ g§ ^:es °^.- 

SC^oS rtS'55 csrt t^S 'u'g ':=§-^E<^S 

° °^| g^l g" -S; o- g|^^ |i 

o o«^ I^S 1^ g2 gS ^^-=2 1^ 

Franklin, 34 8 398 00 — — 436 342 25 154~~ 

Monroe, 31 2 — — _ _ 54 21 10 
Washington, 49 24 914 00 3167 00 4081 00 1067 566 75 248 

953 21 412 

The actual payments made by school commissioners to teachers, beino- 
$963 21, the actual cost of each poor child, /o?- the portions of the year 
for which such payments were made, Avill average $2 33f. 

COLLEGES. 

William and Mary— This institution, Avhich is at Williamsburg 
forincrly the capitol of Virginia, and next to Harvard College, the oldest 
m the United States, derives its name from William and Marv sove- 



OF VIRGINIA. 81 

reigns of England, by whom its charter was granted in 1G91. It re- 
ceived with its charter a grant of £1,985, 20,000 acres of land, and a penny 
a pound on tobacco exported from Virginia and Maryland ; and it was fur- 
ther aided by private donations, particularly by the munificence of the Hon. 
Robert Boyle. In 1693, the Assembly of Virginia ordered that it should 
be built at Williamsburg, and made some additional grants, so that its an- 
nual income became upwards of £3,000; but it was subsequently greatly di- 
minished. — "The funds," as recently stated by the President of the college, 
"consist of bonds, stocks, land,s, and houses, amoimting in all to about 
$150,000, not yielding, however, a revenue in proportion to the amount." — 
" No regular list of students or graduates, has been kept till within the last 
few years; the number, therefore, of alumini we cannot determine; but it 
is certainly greater than from any other college south of the Potomac. — 
Owing to peculiar circumstances, the graduates have always been few. 
Nine-tenths of the students have gone through one course without apply- 
ing for a degree." Many of the most eminent men of Virginia Avere edu- 
cated here. The condition of the college, at different periods, has been very 
variable; but, after a period of declension, it has had, for some years past, a 
-considerable degree of prosperity. It is under the legislative government 
of a board of 24 trustees who supply the vacancies in their own body. 

The college edifice is a large misshapen pile of buildings. The college 
library contains 3,500, and the students' library, 600 volumes. 

The Rev. James Blair, D. D. was named pre/ldent in the charter, but is 
said not to have entered upon the duties of thecffice till 1729; he died in 
1742, and was succeeded by the Rev. William Stith, who died in 1750. — 
The Rev. James Madison, D. D. (Bishop of Virginia,) was president from 
1777 to 1812. His successors have been the Rev. W. H. Wilmer, Dr. J. 
Augustine Smith, and the Rev. Dr. Adam Empie. 

Facultij in 1833.— Rev. Adam Empie, D. D., Pra^. <S^^ Prof. Mor.Phil 

William B. Rogers, Prof. Ckcrdistn/ and Nat. Philosophy. 

Dabney Brown, Prof. Humanity. 

Thomas R. Dew, P rof. History, Metaphysics, <^'C. 

Robert Saunders, Jr. P rof. Mathematics. 

Beverley Tucker, Prof. Law. 

Number of students in the Senior and Junior classes in 1833, 26; irre- 
gular students 15; law students 12; academical 37; total 90. Graduates 
in 1829, 5; in 1830, 7; in 1831, 15; in 1832, 11. 

Commencement is on the 4th of July. — One vacation, from commence- 
ment to the last Monday in October. 

Annual Expenses — for a Junior student ; board and lodging $ 1 00 ; wash- 
ing, fuel, candles, &-c. $20; three fees for the moral, mathematical and che- 
mical courses, and half a fee for the metaphysical course, $70; matricula- 
tion $5; — total $195. For a senior student $185. The /ff7o co^/rsc com- 
mences at the opening of the college, and terminates on the Saturday be- 
fore the last Monday in April. E.rpenses, board, washing, and fuel, $90; 
tuition $20; matriculation $5; — total, $115. 

The grammar school opens on the 15th of October, and closes on the 1st 
of August. E.rpcnses, board, including every thing, $100; tuition 
total $120. 

Hampden Sydnev, in Prince Edward county : 

Wa-shixoton College, in Rockbridge: 
11 



82 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Raxdolh Macon, at Boydton, in Mecklenburg co : are all flourishing; 
institutions, and a full account may be seen of them in their respective coun- 
ties. We pass on to the principal literary institution of the state, the 

University of Virginia. — The legislature of Virginia at the session 
of 1817-18, adopted measures for establishing an institution then proposed 
to be named Central College, and 24 commissioners were appointed to select 
a site for it. They accordingly selected a pleasant and elevated spot nearly 
two miles from Charlottesville, in the county of Albemarle, not far from the 
centre of the population of the state. Their choice was confirmed by the 
legislature in 1819, and an act was passed incorporating the institution by 
the title of the Universitj/ of Virginia, which went into operation in 1825. 
It was erected and endowed by the state; and it owes its origin and peculiar 
organization chiefly to Mr. Jefferson. It has a fine collection of buildings, 
consisting of four parallel ranges about 600 feet in length, and 200 feet 
apart, suited to the accommodation of 9 professors and upwards of 200 stu- 
dents; which together with the real estate, cost $333,996. It posseses a 
very valuable library of 10,000 A'olumes, and a philosophical apparatu.^, 
which together cost $36,948. The state gives annually $15,000 for the 
support of the institution. The whole annual income of the University is 
about $18,500. The professors are paid partly by a fixed salary and part- 
ly by fees received from the students; bv\t the sums which they severally 
receive are widely different, varying in ordinary years from $1,600 to 
$3,500. 

The plan of this University differs materially from that of other institu- 
tions of the kind in the United States. The students are not divided into 
four classes, Avith a course of studies embracing four years; but the differ- 
ent branches of science and literature here taught are styled schools, and 
the student is at liberty to attend which he pleases, and graduate in each, 
when prepared. The first degree was conferred in 1828 — the number of 
graduates in that year was 10; in 1829, 12; 1830, 30; 1831, 20; 1832,46; 
total, 118; of these 16 were graduates in ancient langvtages; 14 in mathe- 
matics; 23 in natural philosophy; 9 in chemistry; 17 in moral philosophy; 
22 in medicine; and 17 in law. The title of "Master of Arts of the Uni- 
versity of Virginia," was conferred on one student at the commencement of 
1832, and on several in each year since. To obtain this title it is necessa- 
ry to gradauit in the several schools of mathematics, ancient languages, 
moral philosophy, natural philosophy, chemistry, and by a recent enactment 
in some two of the modern languages. 

Ancient Languages, from 1825 to '33, 519— in 1833, 58 
Modern " " " 

Mathematics, " " 

Number of Stu- Natural Philosophy, " 

dents in the <^ Chemistry & Materia Medica, 

School of Medicine, " " " 

Anatomy and Surgery, "• 
Moral Philosophy, " " 

Law, " " " 

Animal Expenses. — Board, including bed, washing, and attendance, dur- 
ing the session from September 10 to July 20, $100; fuel and candles $15; 
room-rent $8; use of library and public rooms, $15; fees to three profes- 
sessors (to one only $50; to two, $30 each; if more than two, $25 each,) 
$75; total $213. 



425— 


" 22 


619— 


" 76 


410— 


" 83 


407— 


" 69 


238— 


" 40 


183— 


" 35 


252— 


" 38 


201— 


" 37 



OF VIRGINIA. 



83 



Faculty in 1834. — Gesner Harrison, Prof. Ancient Languages. 

George Blsetterman, Prof. Modern Languages. 

Charles Bonnycastle, Prof Mathematics. 

Robert Patterson, Prof Natural Philosophy. 

John P. Emmet, Prof Chemistry and Materia Medica. 

Augustus L. Warner, Prof. Anatomy and Surgery. 

Alfred T. Magill, Prof Medicine. 

George Tucker, Prof Moral Philosoj^hy and Political Economy. 

John A. G. Davis, Prof Laio. 

Chairman of the Faculty, in 1834, Professor Bonnycastle. — The chairt 
man is annually chosen from the professors, by the Visitors. 

Board of Visitors, in 1834, Joseph C. Cabell, Rector, Chapman Johnson, 
John H. Cocke, Thomas J. Randolph, W. C. Rives, and William H. Brod- 
nax. The Visitors are appointed by the governor and council, every four 
years, and choose their own rector. A more detailed account of this insti- 
tution is given in Albemarle county. 

MILITARY ORGANIZATION, ARMS, &c. 

Abstract of the annual rettirn of the Militia of the State of Virginia, for 

the year 1833 — viz: 

General Staff, 104 

Cavalry, 7,635 

Artillery, 5,301 

Grenadiers, Light Infantry, Riflemen, and Infantry of the line, 89,079 



Total Militia, - 
Decrease during 1833, 

Which are divided as follows : 
Divisions, - - - - 
Brigades, - - - - 
Regiments, 

Troops of Cavalry, - 
Companies of Artillery, 

In these divisions the officers 
Major Generals. 
Brigadier Generals - 
Adjutant Inspector and Gluar- 

ter Master General, 
Aids-de-Camps, 
Division Inspectors, 
Division Gluarter Masters, 
Brigade Inspectors, - 
Brigade Gluarter Masters, 
Colonels, ... 

Lieutenant Colonels, 
Majors, - - . - 
Adjutants, 
Gluarter Masters, 
Paymasters, 
Chaplains, 



102,119 



672. 



o 

22 
154 
110 

72 



Companies of Grenadiers, - 5 

do. Light Infantry, 74 

do. Riflemen, - 120 

do. Infantry of the line,927 



and men, are divided thus : 

4 [Surgeons, - - - 138 

21; Surgeons Mates, - - 130 

Captains, . . _ 1080 

1 Lieutenants, ... 1095 

29 Ensigns, - - - 588 

4 Cornets, ... 77 

4 Sergeant Majors, - - 126 

22 Quarter Master Sergeants, il5 

19 Musicians, - - - 860 

139 Buglers and Trumpeters, 53 

135 Sergeants, - - - 3642 

135 Corporals, - - - 2158 

138 Privates, - - - 91128 

141 Commissioned Officers, - 4037 

137 Non-Commissioned Officers, 

2. Musicians and Privates, 9808.2 



84 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Arms, «5'^- «'«■ i^'<^ hands of the militia, and remaitiing in the Lexington 
Arseiial, September 30, 1833, viz: 



Brass four pounders, 

do. six pounders, - - 5 

Iron four pounders, - - 5 

do. six pounders, - - 26 

Muskets, - - - - 37181 

Bayonets, - - - 3G857 

Carbines, - - - - 120 



Rifles, .... 2174 

Horsemans' pistols, - - 1991 

Cavalry swords, - - 2053 

Artillery swords, - - 353 

Colors, - - - - 1G7 

Drums and fifes, - - 375 

Bugles, Trumpets, &c. &c. 22 



Reports of Anns, 4-c. Remaining in the Armory at Richmond, on the 30/A 

September, 1833 — viz: 
Brass mortars, . - - 21 Muskets, - - - 38,472: 



Rifles, Virginia manufactory, 880 

do. received from the U. S. 1851 

Carbines, - - - 20. 

Pistols, .... 70a 

Cavalry swords, &c. &c. - 3126, 



32 pounders, brass, - - 6 

Long 6 pounders, brass, - 1 

24 pounders, iron, - - 4 

12 pounders, iron, - - 36 

6 pounders, iron, - - 129 

4 pounders, iron, - - 43 

Regulations. — An act for the better organization of the militia, passed' 
1833-34, revises and consolidates all the existing laws on the subject of the 
militia, with amendments, of which the following are the principal provi- 
sions: the officers are recjuired to be trained by the commandments of regi- 
ments, instead of by the brigade inspectors; the musters are increased, st^ 
that there will be one regimental muster in the spring, one battalion muster 
in the fall, and a company muster in the spring and fall, each making four 
musters in the year; volunteer companies having two extra additional mus- 
ters, making six in the year, but the regimental courts of enquiry have the 
power within any regiment to dispense with any of the extra musters if 
they think proper, and the power of substituting battalion masters, in the 
spring, in lieu of i\\e regimental muster, and also to prescribe the tune and 
place of muster; the commandants of regiments to prescribe the time and 
place of the trainings of the ofiicers, instead of the brigadier generals, as 
heretofore. All companies are to be officered witli a captain, four lieuten- 
ants, fiv^e sergeants, and six corporals each; volunteer companies are per- 
mitted to adopt their own by-laws, and the commandants thereof to appoint 
the time for their e.xtra musters; fines for failing to attend such extra mus- 
ters to be imposed by the courts of enquiry, to be collected by the sherifl^s, 
and paid to the treasurers of such companies, to be disposed of by the com- 
panies as they may deem proper; all nuiformed volunteer companies to be 
armed. The act exempts from militia duty, (except in time of war, insur- 
rection or invasion,) all members of volunteer companies who produce to 
their regimental courts of enquiry, certficates from their commanding offi- 
cers of seven years service* Companies of artillery equipped with ord- 
nance, to be allowed one dollar per day for each horse employed in drawing 
their artillery and caissons, and the governor is authorized to require any 
company of artillery to perform the duties of light artillery. 

The uniform of the respective corps of the militia, to be the same Avith 
that of the United States' army, unless the governor, by proclamation, shall 
otherwise order; but volunteer companies now uniformed, are not required 
to change their uniform. Battalion courts of enquiry to be held in October 



OF VIRGINIA. 85 

or November, and reoimcntal courts in November or December ; the act 
authorizing boards of the officers of the different regiments to be convened 
at any- time to transact any other business of the regiment other than the 
assessment or remission of fines. The fines on non-commissioned officers 
and soldiers for failing to attend musters, to be not less than 75 cents, nor 
more than three dollars for each delinquency. Musicians may be allowed by 
the regimental courts of enquiry, two dollars per day for each lawful mus- 
ter, the claims to be paid by the sheriff within three months thereafter, and 
provision is made for the more prompt payment than heretofore of drafts for 
the purposes of the militia. One stand of colors only is allowed to each 
regiment, and colors and musical inistruments are not allowed oftener than 
once in ten years, nor unless sanctioned by the regimental court of enquiry. 
The adjutant general is allowed the brevet rank of a brigadier general. — 
The executive to cause the act, together Avith the articles of war, to be print- 
ed, and one copy to be furnished to each commissioned officer. The act not: 
to take effect till \\\q first of January, 1835. 

LUNATIC ASYLUMS. 

This state has two lunatic asylums: one is located in eastern Virginia, at 
Williamsburg, James city county, the other in western Virginia, at Staun- 
ton, Augusta county. There were in the lunatic hospital at Williamsburg, 
on the first of .January, 1834, 37 male and 18 female patients — total 55. — 
During the year 1833, nine died, and three were discharged. The aggre- 
gate expense for the support of this institution during the past year, was- 
$9,250 87, according to the director's report. In the lunatic hospital at 
Staunton, there were on the 2Sth day of December, 1833, 19 male, and 1& 
female patients — total 37; during the same year, one died. There was ex- 
pended for the support of this establishment, duriug the past year, $6,078- 
3"!, according to the report of the committee. 

A considerable addition is now being made to the building of the lasS 
mentioned asylum.. 

PENITENTIARY. 

We believe this system has been as successful in {ew states, as in Virginia.. 
The annexed table exhibits the fact that it is only necessary to send back 
again one in (nearly) every twenty-one ; which seems to exhibit a very suc- 
cessful reformation: — whilst the reports of its fiscal concerns prove that so- 
far from being a burthen, it brings to the State a small annual revenue. To 
punish crime, and reform the criminal, without expense to the state, is the 
object in view: — our system certainly attains the latter completely, and ap-^ 
proximates, in a very beneficial degree, to the former; 



86 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



A TABLE shewijig the number of convicts, o-eceived in the Penileniiary 
of Virginia, from the time it 2oas opened in 1800, with the pardons, 
deaths, escapes, and discharges in each year, until the 30/A of Novem- 
ber, 1833, and the number remaining on that day. 



< 


> 


o 

1 


each year. 
11 


o 


03 


he prisons 
e 1st Jan. 
ear. 


oo 

•Si 




o 

ti 




'T3 
'T3 


aj Co 












. u 




<U 


c3 


C cd 


_- <u 




d 


o >> 


o 


6 >^ 


6 <u 


6 o <u 


TS t3 




-^ 


^ 


^ 


^ 


^ 


^ 


Ol ^ 


1800 


21 


— 


1 


1 





. — 




1801 


23 


— 


1 





10 


19 




1802 


44 


— 


1 





16 


41 


Qj c/: ^ 


1803 


55 


3 


2 





31 


68 


O 1) '- 


1804 


41 


1 


1 


3 


33 


87 


>- a O 


1805 


50 


— 


1 


— 


21 


90 


^ 


1806 


40 


5 


5 


1 


34 


1 18 ■ 




1807 


54 


18 


3 




22 


113 


3 


1808 


37 


11 


— 


— 


29 


124 


1 


1809 


40 


8 


1 


— 


31 


121 


4 


1810 


25 


11 


3 


— 


20 


121 


1 


1811 


33 


10 


5 


— 


18 


112 


1 


1812 


50 


34 


— 


— 


11 


112 


5 


1813 


52 


17 


5 





33 


117 




1814 


33 


23 


3 


— 


15 


114 


3 


1815 


45 


9 


6 


— 


14 


106 


6 


1816 


74 


9 


3 


— 


26 


122 


6 


1817 


77 


16 


3 


— 


39 


158 


4 


1818 


60 


9 


7 


— 


47 


171 


6 


1819 


80 


12 


11 


— 


34 


168 


5 


1820 


93 


20 


9 


— 


44 


191 


5 


1821 


81 


13 


15 


— 


55 


211 


4 


1822 


103 


20 


12 


— 


60 


209 


5 


1823 


83 


12 


14 


— 


66 


220 


9 


1824 


62 


15 


16 


6 


45 


211 


4 


1825 


34 


1 


23 


— 


47 


191 


3 


1826 


52 


6 


18 


— 


33 


154 


2 


1827 


43 


4 


17 


— 


28 


149 


2 


1828 


50 


6 


17 


— 


21 


143 


1 


1829 


55 


4 


21 


— 


24 


149 




1830 


57 


4 


15 


— 


25 


155 




1831 


49 


5 


25 


— 


22 


168 


4 


1832 


43 


13 


51 


— 


20 


165 


1 


1833 


37 


11 


9 


— 


19 


124 


1 



1786 



330 



330 



11 



993 Av'ge,122 86 



OF VIRGINIA. 



87 



These convicts were employed in the following occupations, vi'z. 



Boot and Shoe making, 


- 


14 


Splicers, 


. 


3 


Hai'ness making, - 


- 


2 


Fuller and Washer, 


1 


Tailoring, 


- 


10 


Wheelwrig 


hts, 


7 


Blacksmith?, 


- 


8 


Carpenters, 


. 


6 


Strickers, - - - 


- 


8 


Coopers, 


. 


7 


Nailors, 


- 


3 


Yard hand, 


pumps, «&c. 


2 


Mill Stone makers, 


- 


2 


Runners, 


. 


2 


Firemen, 


- 


1 


Nurses, 


. 


2 


Weavers, 


- 


17 


Cooks, 


- 


3 


duillers and spoolers, 


- 


5 


Clerk, 


- 


1 


Wool carders, 


- 


2 


Invalids, 


. 


5 


Wool spinners. 

Total numt 




2 
of m 








er 


en. 


. 


113 


Women (all colored persons) 


cmplo} 


'ed sewing, 


* * 


9 



Total of all colors of both sexes, - - 122 

Number of slaves for transportation, , - . 7 

The act making solitude not more than half or less than one-eigth of the 
term of conviction, and requiring each person to be confined in his dark 
and solitary cell for six months immediately after being received, was in 
force from the 1st of March, 1824, to the 9th of March, 1826. It was then 
provided, that three months of solitary confinement should be suffered at 
the commencement of each person's term, and three months more at the 
close. This law continued in force until the 27th February, 1829; when 
it was provided that the first three months should be omitted; but the three 
months at the close of the term was continued until the 9th of March, 
1833, when solitude was reduced to one-twelfth part of the whole term and 
not to exceed one month at any one time. The wall round the prison was 
not erected till 1824. 

Of the number of prisoners received into the Penhentiary from 1st Oc- 
tober, 1832 to 30th Sept. 1833, there were for- 



Murder, 


4 


Horse stealing. 


6 


Voluntary manslaughter, 


5 


C4rand larceny, - - - 


10 


Unlawful stabbing. 


2 


Forger^', - - - . 


2 


Stealing free negroes, 


1 


Passing counterfeit bank notes. 


3 


Arson, - . . . 


2 


Bigamy, .... 


1 


Robbery, 


1 


Felony, ... - 


6 


Stealing slaves, 


1 









Total, 



44 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENT. 

Virginia is considerably behind her sisters New York and Pennsylva- 
nia in the extent of her improvements. For this several reasons may be 
assigned; first, her habitual caution and prudence in legislation, requiring 
demonstration of its utility before she will embark her capital in any new 
euterprize ; second, the sectional jealousies of different portions of the state, 
the interest of several often conflicting, with regard to any specific iin- 
provement proposed ; third, the mismanagement of her first enterprizes in 
this field, have contributed to dampen her ardour ever since. Of late she 
seems to be more inclined to arou.se from her lethargy. There is a per- 



88 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

inanent fund devoted to the purpose of internal improvement ; by a report 
in Sept. 30, 1833 this fund amounted to $1,423,661 11, to which may be 
added a disposable fund of $966,847 80, [of which however $61,111 11 is 
at present improductive] making in all $2,415,586 50; from Avhich the an- 
nual income is $144,934 00. This fund is managed by 13 directors styled 
the " Board of Public Works j of which board the Governor, Treasurer, 
^nd First Auditor are ex officio members. The board meets annually on 
the first Monday in January. The members receive $4 per diem, and 20 
■cents a mile for travelling. 

The views of Governor Tazewell upon this subject are interesting: — 

"Another great Corporation connected with the fiscal concerns of the 
Commonwealth, is "the Board of Public Works." This institution was 
■established in 1816, and'endowed with all the stocks then held by the state 
an different Turnpike and Canal Companies, in the Bank of Virginia and 
the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, and whh all the interest the state might 
'acquire thereafter as a bonus or premium for the incorporation of other 
Banks, or for the increase of their capital, or the renewal of their charters. 
These funds and their proceeds, although nominally much greater, cannot 
■be justly estimated, in money, at more than about two millions of dollars, 
which may now, therefore, be considered as constituting the capital stock 
'of the Corporation. The receipts from this capital are equal to about 
■$115,000 annually. 

"The object of this institution, was to invest its annual profits, and the pro- 
'ceeds of such part of its capital as it might be thought judicious so to invest, 
in any work of Internal Improvement, promising when completed, to be of 
advantage to the Commonwealth, and profitable to the other proprietors of 
it. But aware of the difficulties that would attend the judicious selection of 
^such works, the authors of the Corporation established a rule, by which it 
should be governed in every case. When any work of Internal Improve- 
ment was proposed, if after the requisite surveys of it had been made, and 
its cost estimated, by officers and at the expense of the Corporation, three- 
•^fths of the capital deemed necessary for the completion of such a work was 
subscribed by individuals, the residue was to be taken by the Corporation, and 
;paid for by it rateably with the sums advanced by the private stock-holders. 

"If this scheme had been carried into full effect according to the original 
plan, it seems quite obvious, that all the funds of the Corporation would 
have been ultimately invested in the stocks of comparatively small under- 
takings, to the completion of which the enterprize and unaided capital of in- 
dividuals woxxld have been perfectly adequate : Avhile great works, the very 
magnitude of which would prevent the combination of a sufficient number of 
individuals to subscribe the proportion necessary to secure the co-operation 
of the state, would never hav^e been carried into effect. Thus, while some 
partial improvements might have been made, no work of general and perma- 
nent utility Avould have been accomplished, and the great object of the Cor- 
poration must have been defeated. The discovery of this was at last made ; 
but not until more than $900,000 of the capital of the institution had been 
invested in undertakings since abandoned, or in those the profits of Avhich 
are quite inconsiderable, or much less than the average rate of profit in the 
country generally. 

"To remedy this defect, a modification of the original plan was adopted. 
The Commonwealth assumed upon itself, exclusively, the completion of cer- 
tain great Internal Improvements, in which, from their very nature, the co- 



OF VIRGINIA. 89 

operation of a sufficient number of individuals could not be expected, leaving- 
all others, deemed of less general utility, to the support of the Board of Pub- 
lic Works. Thus the subject of Internal Improvement has become divided 
into parts — in one of which the state is concerned exclusively, while in the 
other, the Board of Public Works is but a co-partner with individuals. 

"The effect of this division of the public interests, has been attended with, 
some hazard already, and unless much discretion is used hereafter, will be 
ruinous to the Board of Public Works, and seriously oppressive to the state 
itself The funds of the Corporation not being equal to the immedia,te ac- 
complishment of all the great objects in which the Commonwealth was con- 
cerned exclusively, and to the advancement, at the same time, of the others 
in which the Board of Public Works was interested as a co-partner with in- 
dividuals, to supply the deficiency, resort was had to loans. The payment 
of the interest and the reimbursement of the principal of these loans Avere 
charged, in the first instance, upon the stock for the benefit of which the 
loans had been effected: but should this prove insufficient, the funds of the 
Board of Public Works were made subject to these payments; and should 
a deficiency still exist, the Treasury itself was made accountable for it. 

"The example of relying upon loans for the accomplishment of such pub- 
lic works being once set, was soon followed in the case of works to be con- 
structed at the joint charge of the state and of individuals. Large sums have 
been borrowed to enable the payment of the subscription of the Corporation 
to these works also. The payment of the interest and the reimbursement 
<if the principal of these loans, were charged, in like manner, upon the cor- 
porate funds, in the first instance: but should these prove insufficient, the 
Treasury itself, as before, is made chargeable with any deficiency. 

"Thus it has happened, that while a considerable portion of the capital of 
this Corporation has been invested in stocks absolutely unproductive, 05 
very nearly so, the whole of this capital is now charged with the payment 
of the interest and reimbursement of the principal of large debts, for which 
the Treasury itself is ultimately liable. As yet, the income of the Corpo- 
ration is equal to the satisfaction of all its expenses, and to the payment of 
the interest charged upon it. It is believed also, that the capital is suffi- 
cient to discharge the principal of all these debts. But should any ad- 
ditional burthen be imposed upon this Corporation, at this time, it is proba- 
ble that its means would not suffice to meet all its engagements, without im- 
pairing this capital. In that event, it is obvious that ere long, the whole 
weight of all these engagements must fall upon the Treasury, when to pre- 
serve the credit of the state, new and burthensome taxes must be imposed 
upon the people. 

"To prevent such a result, I recommend to you most earnestly, that no 
new charge be imposed upon this Corporation, at present. In a few years, 
it is expected very confidently, that all the Avorks in AA'hich it is concerned 
and Avhich are noAv in progress, Avill be completed. Unless individuals 
have been greatly deceiA'ed in their estimates of the effects of these Avorks, 
the funds invested in them Avill then become productive. The profits of 
this capital, or its proceeds Avill then enable the easy and speedy reimburse- 
ment of the debts Avith AA'hich the Corporation is now charged. The Avhole 
funds of the Board Avill then become applicable to other undertakings ; and 
the AA^ork of Internal Improvement may again proceed with increased vigor 
and adA-antage. But if a different course is pursued, the ruin of this Cor- 
poration may be the too probable consequence — grievous taxation must fol- 
12 



90 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

low as the necessary effect of its ruin; and the work of Internal Improve' 
ment will receive a shock from Avhich it will not recover for a long period. 

"As a fiscal agent, the Board of Public Works has been, and under ju- 
dicious management will continue to be, of great advantage to the Com- 
monwealth. So long as its plans meet public approbation, it will call into 
useful action the unemployed capita] of individuals, making this productive 
to its proprietors, and beneficial to the community. The very debts which 
it may be compelled to contract occasionally, Avill effect all the beneficial 
results, without producing any of the evils attendant upon a public debt — 
provided they are confined to a limit, within which the income of the Cor- 
poration, after satisfying its expenses, will certainly pay the interest, and its 
capital surely reimburse the principal. But if a different course is adopted, 
this Institution, instead of being an useful fiscal agent, will be worse than 
useless. It Avill then become positively mischievous, acting as a perpetual 
drain of the Treasury and exhausting its funds, repleted often as its coffers 
must be, by heavy exactions from the people." 

Naidgation East of the Apjyalachian System. — The eastern part of Vir- 
ginia is peculiarly favored in facilities for water transportation, in the im- 
mense and deep bay of Chesapeake and its large tributaries, the James, the 
York, the Rappahannock, and the Potomac. The earth affords no other 
instance of so great a physical change in so short a distance, as that between 
the shallow sounds of North Carolina, and the deep water of the Chesa- 
peake; in the latter the largest ships of war have adequate depth almost to 
the very A^erge of the primitive rock ; ships of the line ascend the main bay 
nearly to its head, — the Potomac to Alexandria, — some distance into York 
river, — and up James river to the mouth of Nansemond ; sloops drawing 
six or seven feet water penetrate into innumerable creeks upon both sides 
of the bay. Nature seems also to have been especially liberal to this state 
in the peculiar direction of the channels of her rivers, making her eastern 
border a common recipient of all flowing east of the Appalachian System. 
The rivers of Georgia and the Carolinas, from Alatamaha to Cape Fear 
inclusive (and we might say without much violence to Roanoke) flow S. E. 
or S. S. E.: but from the southern border of Virginia to the Susquehan- 
nah they floAV east, and the latter river south. Much has been done to im- 
prove the navigation in eastern Virginia, but little when compared with 
the extent of country and the number of lines of communication inviting at- 
tention. 

James River is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Warwick, and 125 
tons to Rocket's, the port of Richmond. At that city commences the falls 
or rapids, to pass which by a navigable canal, the old James River Com- 
pany was chartered in 1784, and were collecting tolls in the year 1794. 
(See Richmond, Henrico County.) The Richmond canal entered a basin 
on the western side of the city, it was 25 feet Avide, and 3 deep, and extended 
originally 2| miles to its junction Avith the river, in Avhich space there are 
12 locks, and a fall of 1 80 feet. Three miles aboA-e the falls there Avas another 
short canal, Avith 3 locks, OA-ercoming a fall of 34 feet. These canals and 
locks, Avith other slight improvements opened a tolerable navigation of 12 
inches AA-ater to Lynchburg. In 1825 the James River Company declared 
canal navigation complete to the head of Maiden's Adventure tails, in Gooch- 
land County, a distance of 30| miles from Richmond. The Avidth of the 
canal is 40 feet, depth of Avater 3^ feet, and the expense AA^as $623,225; the 
fall overcome Avas 140^ feet. This last improvement Avas probably in pro- 



OF VIRGINIA. 91 

portion to its magnitude the most promptly executed Avork at that time ac- 
complished in the United States. Besides these there is another canal 
through the Blue Ridge, about 7 miles long, and 30 feet wide, overcoming 
a fall of 100 feet. 

James River and Kanawha Commu?iicatio?i. — The necessity of opening 
a complete communication between the Ohio and Chesapeake by this line, 
has been feU by all classes in Virginia, indeed it is admitted that without i^ 
she must sink to a very low ebb when compared whh her more enterprising- 
sisters, in wealth, population, and importance. There has already been ex. 
pended on this line of improvement $1,274,583, of which $038,883 86, 
have been expended on the lower James River Canal, the old and new im- 
provements, — $365,20-7 02 on the mountain canal, — $87,389,81 on the 
Kanawha, — and $171,982 49 on turnpike roads and bridges from Coving- 
ton to the Kanawha; but these improvements though of great local advan- 
tage to the sections of country in which they are situated, by no means es- 
tablish a continuous communication. To effect this all-important object the 
Legislature in 1831-2, granted a charter of incorporation to the James 
River and Kanawha Companj^ Aviih a capital of $5,000,000. This char- 
ter was at first liberal, but has since been most particularly and specially 
favored by the Legislature, for the purpose of inducing individual subscrip- 
tion; exempting the shares from taxation, making the charter perpetual, 
allowing the Banks to subscribe, and subscribing for the state an amount 
for beyond her usual proportion in improvements, &c. These advantages, 
and the unremitting exertions of some patriotic citizens, have (it is believed) 
procured the necessary amount of subscriptions, and it is probable that the 
noble Avork will be commenced in the spring of 1835. No human foresight 
can see the limit of the advantages attendant on its success, or the evils of 
Its failure.* 

Dismal Swamp Ciinal is another important improvement, it is said to 
have been the first canal commenced in the United States, and nearly the 
last finished, — it is 22^ miles in length, 40 feet wide, and 6|- deep, it passes 
from Deep creek to Joyce's creek at the head of Pasquotank river, and con- 
nects the waters of the Chesapeake with those of Albemarle sound, it is 

*The first Message of Governor Tazewell contains the best history of the legisla- 
tion upon this subject which we have seen: 

"One of the great Corporations created for purposes of Internal Iraprovementj in 
which the Commonwealth is now concerned exclusively, is " Tjie James River Com- 
pany." The origin of this must be sought for as far back as the year 1784. In that 
year, the General Assembly passed an Act, whereby they incorporated a Company 
under this name, with a capital of $100,000, divided into 500 shares, of $200 each, for 
the purpose of clearing and extending the navigation of James River, from tide-wa- 
ter upwards, to the highest parts practicable on the main branch thereof. By seve- 
ral other acts passed afterwards, it was declared, that t)\e highest place practicable 
within the meaning of the first act, was Crow's Ferry at the mouth o^ Looney's creek 
in the county of Botetourt; and the capital stock of the Company Avas increased to 
700 shares. Of these shares, the state became a subscriber for 250, Avith Avhich the 
Board of Public Works was afterwards endowed, as a part of its capital, Avhen this 
Institution Avas created in 181G. 

After the Avork for the accomplishment of AA'hich this charter Avas granted, had 
been completed, or very nearly so, it Avas thought beneficial to the state, to improve 
the navigation of James River beyond the highest point first fixed, to the mouth of 
Dunlap's Creek — to make a convenient road from thence to the great falls of the Ka- 
nawha River ; and to make the last mentioned riA'er navigable from the great falls 
thereof to the river Ohio. But as their charter imposed no .such obligations upon the 
then existing Company, it was necessary to enter into a ncAv contract with if, for that 



92 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

partly in Virginia and partly in North Carolina. This canal was finished, 
upon a circumscribed plan in 1822. Its dimensions have since been en- 
larged. Every quarter of a mile, the canal is widened to 60 feet for turn- 
out stations. The locks newly constructed correspond in dimensions with 
those of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal; and the old ones may be so 
altered when necessary, without great difficulty. The summit level is 16^ 
feet above the Atlantic at mid-tide, and is supplied by a feeder of five miles' 
length from lake Drummond. The basin at Deep creek, is half a mile in 
length, and 15 feet above the level of tide-water. The Northwest canal 
connects Northwest river [which empties into Currituck sound in N. Caro- 
lina] with the main canal, requiring a cut of 6 miles. This canal is 21 feet 
wide, and 4 feet deep. 

The Appomatox has been improved from its mouth 10 miles to Fisher's 
bar, and around the falls 5 or 6 miles above Petersburg. 

Danville and Dan river canals are a series of improvements upon the 

purpose. This was accordingly done, by an act pa,ssed in February 1820. Under 
this new act, the state undertook to pay, semi-annually, to the Stockholders of the 
James River Company, a dividend upon their stock of 12 per centum per annum for 
several years, and of 15 per centum per annum forever thereafter. The state un- 
dertook further, to carry into effect the contemplated improvements, by appropriating 
to that purpose the requisite funds; and in consideration of these things, the Company 
assigned to the Commonwealth, all their tolls and income of every kind. 

The state having thus acquired all the interest of the original stockholders in this- 
Company, the General Assembly abolished the former Directory of the Company, by 
an Act passed in 1823, and appointing a new Directory of the same, committed the 
management of its concerns to this bo'dy- To enable the accomplishment of the ob- 
ject specified, sundry Acts were passed by the General Assembly, from time to time, 
authorizing the Directory to borrow large sums of money. For the payment of the 
interest of the siuns so to be borrowed, and of the annuitv" aforesaid,, all the income of 
the Company was appropriated to that purpose; and the General Assembly pledged 
its faith, that it would provide such other revenues as might be necessary. Until 
such other sufiicient funds should be provided, however, so much of the revenue ol" 
the Board of Public "Works as might be necessary to supply the deficiency, was ex- 
pressly pledged. 

Under this authority, the President and Directors of this Company have borrowed 
at various periods since the authority was given, and at various rates of interest, sun- 
dry sums of money, the aggregate of which amounts now to S'1,324,500; and the total 
amount of the annual interest thereon is computed at S76,563 50, exclusive of the 
perpetual annuity of $21,000 payable to the original stockholders of the Company, for 
the surrender of their charter. 

In 1833, the policy which seems to have guided the course of legislation upon the 
subject of the James River Company until that time, appears to have been changed. 
Until then, the policyhad directed, that the Commonwealth should possess the exclu- 
sive control over this great institution. To give complete eflect to this policy, the state 
had expended much more than a million and a half of dollars in completing the work. 
But on the 16th of March 1832, a joint stock company was again incorporated, pro- 
visionally, to effect the great purpose of connecting the tide water of James River 
with the navigable waters of the Ohio. The capital of this company was to be 
$5,000,000 divided into shares of $100 each. To this stock, the state stipulated, that 
she would subscribe at once ten thousand shares, or S'l, 000,000, to be paid for by a 
transfer of the whole interest the Commonwealth held in the works and properly of 
the James River Company; and when three-fifths, or more, of the capital stock should 
be taken by others, the state agreed, to subscribe for the residue of the S'5,000,000, be 
this what It might. Time until the second Monday in December 1832, Avas allowed 
for making up the subscription of the private stockholders, but before that day another 
act was passed, extending this time to the 3d Monday in December 1833, and this ex- 
tended time was again prolonged by another Act, passed by the la.st Assembly, until 
the 31st of December of the present year. The latter Act binds the Commonwealth 
to sub.scnbe for the remainder of the capital stock of the contemplated companv 
whenever one moiety of it, or more, should have been taken by other subscribers. ' ' 
In this state of things, while the faith of the state is pledged to comply with the 



OF VIRGINIA. 93 

upper branches of the Roanoke river, upon wliicli in Virginia and North 
Carolina, the Roanoke company have expended about $350,000. 

Shenaiidoah Canals are on the river of that name, and near Port Repub- 
lic in Rockingham county. A fall of 50 feet is overcome by six short ca- 
nals with stone locks; by which this river is rendered navigable nearly 200 
miles. 

The Rappahannock has been improved by locks, dams, and canals, from 
Fredericksburg to Fox's mills, about 40 miles. This work was done by a 
joint stock company — $30,000 of the stock belonging to individuals, and 
$20,000 to the state. 

North- Weste rn Turnpike. We extract an account of this road from Gov. 
Tazewell's first message, sent to the Legislature Dec. 1st, 1834: 

"Another great Corporation in which the Commonwealth is exclusively 
concerned, is that styled ' The President and Directors of the North- Wes- 
tern Turnpike Road.' This was created by an act pas€^ in the year 1831. 
Its object was, to construct a road from the town of Winchester, in the 
county of Frederick, to some point on the Ohio River to be thereafter select- 
ed; and the Corporation was authorized to borrow, on the credit of the State, 
a sum or sums of money not exceeding $125,000, for the accomplishment of 
the object of its creation. During the last session of the General Assem- 

conditions proposed by itself, provided these conditions are accepted by others, I feel 
myself restrained from oflering a single remark as to the justice or polic}'' of the con- 
templated scheme. The proffered contract must be carried into efl'ect by the Com- 
monwealth, be its effects what they may; provided those to Mhom the profl'er has been 
made accept its terms, on their part, within the time limited. But should these terms 
not be accepted within the time prescribed, I would recommend to your most serious 
consideration a careful revision of them, if a further extension of the time is hereaf- 
ter proposed. 

In any event it will be wise to provide some means now, by which the debt due by 
the James River Company may be ultimately reimbursed; because, whether the pro- 
posed arrangement be completed or not, the payment of the principal of this debt will 
remain as a charge upon the state exclusively. Although the payment of the per- 
petual annuity to the original stockholders in this Company', as well as of the annual 
interest due to the lenders of the large sums borrowed to carry on this great work, is 
well and amply provided for already, no provision has ever been made for the reim- 
bursement of the debt itself It is true, that no part of this is yet pa)'able, nor will 
become due for many years: but sound policy requires that whenever a debt is con- 
tracted, funds adequate to the extinction of it, at some time or other should be sea- 
sonably appropriated to that object. Should this be omitted, there is always hazard, 
that the debt will not only become permanent, but that its amount will constantly aug- 
ment; and while this tends, by its influence, to generate great inequalities in a state, 
it must in time disturb its legislation, impair its credit, and produce eflects upon its 
currency which cannot be foreseen or prev'ented. 

As a fiscal agent, the James River Company has been of no benefit as yet. The 
income of this Corporation has not sufficed to satisfy its own expenses, the perpetual 
annuity due to the original stockholders, and the intere.st of the sums borrowed to 
carry on its works. Owing to this cause, the ability of the Board of Public Works 
has been much cramped of late, by the necessity imposed upon that body to provide 
for the deficiency, out of its funds". But the resources of the James River Company 
have been much influenced for several years last past, by the shortness of the crops 
u,sually tran.sported to market by the works of that Company; by the reduction of the 
rate of its tolls; as well as by various casualities; which it is to be hoped will not 
again occur. When these causes shall cease to operate, the income of this Company 
will be augmented ofcour.se; and if ever its annual resources shall suffice to meet all 
its annual engagements, it must become a most valuable institution, not only to all 
those who may then be directly interested in it, but to the public and to the Treasury ; 
provided this "income be made liable to the reimbursement of the principal, and to 
the payment of the interest, of the debt due by the company, for which debt the Com- 
monwealth is ultimately bound," 



94 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

bl\', an act was passed, empowering the Corporation to borrow, on tlie cre- 
dit of the Commonwealth, for the purpose of the road, a further sum not 
exceeding $86,000. 

"Under the authority given to it by these several acts, the Corporation 
has borrowed the sum of $121,000 only, as yet, which may be considered 
as the present capital stock of this institution. For the payment of the in- 
terest, and the final redemption of the principal of all the sums borrowed, 
the nett proceeds and surplus tolls Avhich may arise from the road, after 
keeping the same in repair, were pledged and appropriated, by the terms of 
the charter. But should these funds be found inadequate, the General As- 
sembly has stipulated to provide other and sufficient revenues for these pur- 
poses; and until such other sufficient funds shall be provided by law, so 
much of the revenue of the Board of Public Works, not otherwise appro- 
priated, is pledged, as may be necessary to supply the deficiency. 

"Although great progress has been made towards the completion of this 
work, it is not yet finished. No profits, therefore, have been derived from 
it; but it has hitherto acted as a drain of the income of the Board of Public 
Works, whose revenue is bound to provide for the payment of the interest 
on the capital borrowed. It is expected, however, that this improvement will 
be so far completed during the next year, that it may then be made produc- 
tive; and when finished, but little doubt is entertained, that the incom.e de- 
rived from its tolls, will not only keep it in repair, and satisfy the interest on 
the capital borrowed to construct the work, but will suflice, in time, to re- 
imburse the lenders of this capital. It will then become a valuable fiscal 
agent." 

Railroads, though but of late introduction into the United States, have 
attracted considerable attention in Virginia ; one has been lately executed 
styled the Chesterfield Railroad, near Richmond. The results of this road 
are more brilliant m proportion to its extent, than those of any similar work 
in the Union. It is about 13 miles long, and connects the coal-mines of 
Chesterfield with tide-water. The whole capital invested in it, including 
cars for transportation, stables, horses, &c. was $150,000. The trade on 
it is already 50,000 tons per annum, and the receipts for transportation du- 
ring the year 1 833 were $70,000. The stock is of course at a high premium. 

The Petersburg and Roanoke Railroad was the second which went into 
operation in the state, which it did in midsummer 1833; the cars running 
daily between its extreme points. This road commences at Petersburg, and 
extends 60 miles a little Vi. of S. to Weldon, in N. Carolina, and the foot 
of the falls of Roanoke river; the line is very direct, and the graduation in 
no place exceeds 30 feet per mile, and the curves have radii of from 2 to 4 
miles. Great part of the profit arising from this road is derived from the 
transportation of persons. The work was began on the line in 1 83 1, and 
completed June, 1833, aggregate cost $450,000. Before the construction 
of this road Norfolk bad always been regarded as the proper depot and out- 
let for the trade of the Roanoke valley, and would no doubt have become 
possessed of it by improvements connected with her Dismal Swamp Canal; 
but this road having arrested most of the trade and carried it to Petersburg, 
the country about Norfolk procured at the session of 1833-4 the passage 
of an act authorizing the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad, which is to 
terminate at the same point on the Roanoke Avith the Petersburg road, and 
which is now under contract. The construction of the Portsmouth road 
will probably carry the trade to the seaboard, to avoid the tedious navigation 



OF VIRGINIA. 



95 



of tlic James river, after it reaches Petersburg, — unless there should be a 
road made from Richmond to Petersburg, (which is spoken of) by Avhich 
the trade coming by this route would have the advantage of the market of 
both cities. We can scarcely believe that there will be trade enough to 
employ profitably, both roads, as some suppose, but the travellino- alone will 
always enable the Petersburg road to pay something to its owners. 

The Winchester Railroad, connecting the flourishing town of Winches- 
ter, with the Baltimore and Ohio railroad at Harper's Ferry, is rapidly pro- 
gressing, and nearly com.plcted. 

The Richmond and Fredericksburg i2«?Zro(7,fZ company have the law, and 
will probably soon have the funds necessary for its completion, as the trade 
would be considerable, and the travelling immense. 

The following list exhibits a number of projected improvements, for Avhich 
the state has granted charters, and authorised a subscription of two-fifths, 
on the part of the literary fund, as soon as the individual subscription should 
make up the other three-fifths; some of these improvements are now going 
on actively, but in the most of them the stock has not as yet we believe been 
taken : 

Name of Companies. 
Thoroughfare gap turnpike company, 
Lexington and Moimtain canal turnpike co. 
Winchester and Potomac railroad co. 
Hmitersville and Warm spring turnpike co. 
Thornton's gap and Warrenton turnpike co. 
Danville and Evansham turnpike co. 
Staunton and Jennings's gap turnpike co. 
Fincastle and Blue Ridge turnpike co. 
Smithfield, Charlesto-\vn and Harper's ferry 

turnpike company, (additional sub.) 
Staunton& James river turnpike co. do. 
Rivanna and Fredericksburg turnpike co. 
Alillborough and Carr's creek turnpike co. 

$•546000 $218400 

Since this article was sent to press we ha've received the following table, 
shewing the state of the Internal Improvement Fund at a much later date: 

State of the Fund for Internal Im.'provem.ent, SOth September, 1834. 
Productive. Unproductive. Totals. 

Permanent funds, (as per statement B,): 

Bank stocks and loans, and James river 
company's stock, - - . . 
Internal improvement companies, 

Disposable funds, (as per statement C,):- 
Bank stocks and loans, - - . 
Internal improvement companies, 



Date of 


Act. ( 


Capital. 


Two-fifths. 


13th Feb. 


1833, 


31000 


12400 


12th " 


" 


10000 


4000 


31st Jan. 


" 


300000 


120000 


20th Mar. 


1832, 


16000 


6400 


1st " 


1833, 


30000 


12000 


28th Feb. 


" 


50000 


20000 


7th Mar 


i( 


6000 


2400 


26th Feb. 


" 


8000 


3200 


25th " 


u 


10000 


4000 


7th " 


" 


50000 


20000 


28th Jan. 


" 


30000 


12000 


22d Dec. 


1832, 


5000 


2000 



,345,900 00 \^a--^e.r^ ^^ 

29,150 00 208,611 11 \ ^''^'^P*^^ " 

185,373 03 50,000 00) , ,.0^^! At 

230,575 00 593,653 40 \ 1.159,601 43 



Total investments. 

Cash in the treasury: 

Belonging to the permanent funds, $30,- 
496 30, and to the disposable funds, 
$15,243 53, 



1,890,998 03 .942,264 51 



2,833,262 54 



45,739 83 



Total amount of the fund for internal improvement, 



$2,879,002 37 



96 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

The receipts into the treasury from Isi Octo- 
ber, 1833, to 30th September, 1834, in- 
cluding the balance on hand the first 
mentioned date ("$25,077 59) amounted to - - 338,190 64 

The disbursements during the same period 

were, 292,450 81 



Leaving in the treasury, as above stated, $45,739 83 



The probable receipts during the year end- 
ing 30th September, 1835, including the 

present balance on hand, will amount to - - 288,227 83 

The probable charges and appropriations, 

under present engagements, will be, ... 353,600 27 

Leaving a probable deficiency of - - - $65,372 44 

Permanent Funds, 30/A Septanber, 1834. 

125i shares in the Little river turnpike company, at par, 12,550 00 

250 " James river turnpike co. " 50,000 00 

7947 " Bank of Virginia, " 794,700 00 

3381 " Farmers' Bank of Virginia, " 338,100 00 

900 " Bank of the Valley, " 90,000 00 

231 " North-western bank of Virginia, " 23,100 00 

82 " Swift run gap turnpike co. *' 4,100 00 

125 " Upper Appomattox co. " 12,500 00 

Certificates of James river co. 6 per cent, loans, 50,000 00 

Amount producing revenue, ■ 1,375,050 00 

70 shares in the Dismal swamp canal company, at par, 17,500 00 
70 " Chesapeake and Ohio canal company, 

(formerly slock of Potomac CO.) - 31,111 11 
2500* " Chesapeake an I Ohio canal company, 

<state subscription of 1833,) - - 250,000 00 

Amount unproductive, 298,611 11 

Total amount, *$1, 673,661 11 



I'JS'ote. — Amount reported last year, 1,423,661 11 

Add the state's subscription to the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal company, " transferred to, and vested in" the fund 
for internal improvement, by the act of March 8th, 
1834, 2,500 shares, or 250,000 00 



$1,673,661 11 



OF VIRGINIA. 



97 



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OF VIRGINIA 99 

MANUFACTURES. 

Few countries possess greater advantages than Virginia, for success in 
manufacturing; she has labour sufficiently cheap and abundant, inexhaus- 
tible supplies of fuel, and almost unlimited water-power. But planting 
and farming continue the favourite pursuits; her citizens seeming unwilling 
to invest their capital in enterprizes new and hazardous, and for which 
they have not been rendered competent by their habits and education. 
There are however extremely valuable flour mills, and some nail, cotton 
and other manufactories at Richmond, of which a more detailed account 
will be given when we speak of that city. In speaking of Wheeling in 
the N. W. part of the state, we shall give an account of her manufactories 
of cotton and woollen cloths, glass, iron, nails, porter, &.c. which are nume- 
rous and valuable. The salt works on the Kanawha produce annually 
about 12,00,000 bushels of salt, and the amount is only limited by the de- 
mand; those on Holston produce from 150,000 to 200,000; and there are 
others on a smaller scale which will be noticed in their proper places. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There is great diversity In the agriculture of the state, but it is for the 
most part badly conducted. The old practice of cultivating land every 
year until exhausted, and then leaving it to recover from its own resources, 
still continues in many places. In others the three shift system prevails ; — 
that is first a crop of Indian corn, second, Avheat, rye or oats, and third — the 
year of rest as it is erroneously called, but in which in fact the stock are 
permitted to glean a scanty subsistence from the spontaneous vegetation; — 
after which it is again subjected to the scourging process of cultivation, 
while little attention is paid to the application of manures or the artificial 
grasses. This destructive system for the most part prevails from the sea 
board to the head of tide-water, and on the south side of James River to the 
Blue Ridge. On the north side of that river, especially towards the Poto- 
mac, cultivation is much better ; a regular system of rotation in crops is at- 
tended to: grass seeds, generally red clover, (trifolium pratense) are soAvn 
on the small grain; animal and vegetable manures are saved with care and 
judiciously applied, gypsum is used to great extent and with very powerful 
effect. In the valley district, also a good system of cultivation is pursued ; 
and irrigated meadows are common, and very productive. On both sides of 
the Blue Ridge, maize or Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, and bitck Avheat 
are the principal grain crops. Tobacco is the principal staple of most of 
eastern Virginia, but in the Valley is cu.ltivated only in its southern por- 
tion, — and not at all beyond the Alleghany. The grasses common to both 
regions are the red clover (trifolium pratense,) orchard grass (dactylis glo- 
merata) timothy (phleum pratensa,) and herds grass, (alopecurus praten- 
sis,) the two former are cultivated on dry, the latter on moist soils. In the 
eastern and southern counties, cotton is planted to considerable extent. On 
the shores of the Chesapeake barley and the castor oil bean (ricinus corn- 
munis) are cultivated • and on some of the best lands above tide-Avater hemp 
is raised to advantage. 

The Trans-Alleghany country, being exceedingly mountainous, and re- 
mote from market is chiefly devoted to raising live-stock. No more grain 
is raised than is sufficient to supply the country itself, and the travellers 
and stock-drovers who pass through it; but in summer the visitors of the 



100 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

mineral waters, afford a very considerable market, consuming an immense 
quantity of provisions. The climate and soil are very favourable to grass, 
and afford excellent pastures. The greensward and white clover, (trifolium 
ripens) spring up spontaneously wherever the timber is removed or deaden- 
ed, and on rich ground are very luxuriant. The cattle are fattened gene- 
rally on fine pastures of clover and timothy mixed. 

It is difficult to speak with precision of the profits of agriculture in Vir- 
ginia, in many instances it yields a bare subsistence to the cultivator, in, 
others a neat income of two or three per cent; but where the lands are in 
good heart, careful and judicious husbandry practised, and wheat and to- 
bacco the principal crops, there is no doubt that with slave labour a profit 
of from 6 to 8 per cent may be armually realized from capital invested; to 
accomplish this however, great attention and activity are necessary on the 
part of the proprietor. Lands in the Valley, in consequence of there being 
fewer slaves, are more equally divided among the whites; the young popu- 
lation settle more at home, instead of moving to the west — and the lands are 
generally better cultivated: these circumstances cause land to sell generally 
higher in that section, and the country to be more prosperous, although 
running streams are less frequent and communication with market more 
difficult and expensive. 

In 1831 according to official returns 4459 hogshead of tobacco were de- 
livered from the several warehouses in the state for exportation or manufac- 
ture, and during the year ending in June 1832, upwards of 544,000 barrels 
of flour passed the various inspections. The quantity of flour inspected 
however constitutes but a very uncertain index of the amount produced. 
Virginia flour, especially the Richmond brands, stand very high in foreign 
markets, and in South America particularly, bear a price far above all other 
flour. Most of the vegetable productions found in the southern and middle 
states are common also to Virginia. West of the Alleghany the sugar 
maple grows in abundance. There are some excellent native grapes, the 
culture of which it is presumed will claim greater attention, since the win- 
ters have been found too severe for the foreign vine. The subject of ju- 
dicious and scientific agriculture is receiving more attention every day. 
The good work is promoted by agricultural societies, and Mr. Edmund Ruf- ' 
fin's valuable production, the Farmer's Register, decidedly the best work 
upon the subject, published in America. 

COMMERCE. 

The value of imports into the state of Virginia, between October 1st 1830, 
and September 30th 1831, was $488,522, and the domestic produce exported 
amounted to $4,140,986, — foreign produce exported $489, — total exports 
$4,150,475. This immense difference between the imports and exports is 
made up by imports from sister states, the precise amount of which it is im- 
possible to ascertain, but there is always a balance against us to the credit 
of our northern friends. 

At the same time the amount of tonnage employed was as follows : — 
American entered, 2,2933, foreign entered, 9,983 — total entered, 32,916. 
" departed, 48,719, " departed, 11,879— total departed, 60,598. 



OF VIRGINIA, 



lOi 



FISCAL CONCERNS. 

We give below from the last Treasurer's Report, the state of the Finances 
of the Commonwealth on the termination of the last Fiscal Year. 

Amou7ii of Receipts ayul Disbursements on account of the Commonwealth, 
in the Fiscal Year, eliding icith the 30th September, 1834. — -^4/50 the 
balances to the credit of the Commonwealth at the commencement of the 
year, 

RECEIFTS. 



To balance on hand 1st clay of October, 1833, as 
report, - . - , . 

To amounts received in fiscal year, ending- with 
ber, 1834, on the following accounts, viz; 

Arrears of taxes. 

Clerks of county and corporation courts, 

Clerks of superior courts. 

Clerks of appeals, - . _ 

Inspectors of tobacco, - - _ 

Miscellaneous receipts, - _ . 

Militia fines, , . _ - 

Notarial seals, , . _ . 

Privy seals, .... 

Penitentiary agent, ... 

Register of the land office, 

Revenue taxes of 1833, - 

Revenue taxes of 1834, . . - 

Redemption of land, ... 

Unappropriated land, - , ^ 

Washington monument fund, 



per last annual 

$185221 69 
30th Septem- 

2229 07 

6777 80 

7248 90 

199 50 

4573 32 

7542 68 

8867 59 

3086 69 

53 20 

7000 00 

5111 15 

318272 74 

23630 64 

5496 94 

2135 19 

1109 42 



To amount received in fiscal year, ending the 30th SepL 1834, 403334 83 

$?88556 52 

Receipts in each quarter,— 1st, $324897 88; 2d, 25937 43; 3d, 35079 39; 
4th, 17420 13. 



102 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



DISBURSEMENTS. 

By amounts disbursed in fiscal year, ending with SOtli September, 1834, 
on the following accounts, viz : 

Arsenals, .... 5951 70 

Criminal charges, - - - 32240 20 

Contingent fund, - - - 13828 60 

Contingent expenses courts, - - 22625 38 

Civil prosecutions, - - - 47 15 

Cavalry equipments, - - - 1084 43 

Expenses representation, - - 599 75 

General appropriation, - - - 24417 91 

General account revenue, - - 28031 00 

General Assembly, - - - 90140 88 

Guards in the country, - - - 1821 99 

Interest on public debt, - - - 2372 35 

Interest on Chesapeake and Ohio canal stock, 12588 91 

Jerman Baker, ... 1 80 

Lunatic hospitals, - - - 34500 00 

Militia fines, - - - - 10641 67 

Military contingent, ... 1668 76 

Manufactory of arms, - .- - 1280 00 

Officers of government, ... 78815 24 

Officers of militia, - - - 3707 40 

Officers of penitentiary, - - - 7826 32 

Penitentiary criminal charges, - - 4754 27 

Penitentiary house expenses, - - 3010 96 

Penitentiary building, - - - 8319 43 

Pensioners, .... 2308 42 

Public guard, .... 19224 92 

Public warehouses, - - - 2842 72 

Public roads, .... 2000 00 

Revolutionary half pay claims, - - 12167 00 

Repairs of governor's house, - - 937 06 

Repairs of the armony, - - - 1515 01 

Sinking fund, - - - - 132 90 

Slaves executed, .... 3222 00 

Slaves transported, - - - 1 1 190 00 

Washington monument fund, - - 1000 00 

Warrants on account, - - - 4121 07 



By amount disbursed in fiscal year, ending 30tli Sept., 1834, 
By balance on hand 1st October, 1834, 



472337 20 
116219 32 

$588556 52 

Balances' at the end of each quarter, 1st, $394876 48; 2nd, $252352 75- 
3d, $177568 17; 4th, $116219 32. 



OF VIRGINIA. 



103 



REVENUE. 

The folloicing table taken from the last Auditor'' s Report, exhibits the 
amount of Taxes arising on Lots, Lands, S(ai-es, Horses, Carriages, 
and on Licenses to Merchants, Pedlars, Keepers of Ordinaries and Houses 
of Entertainment, and Exhibitors of Shoivs, <S,"c. for 1834: 



Counties. 


Totals. 


Isle of Wight, - 


- $1876 54 


Accomack, 


- $3170 


68 


Jackson, 


227 22 


Albemarle, 


6908 


33 


James City, 


670 28 


Alleghany, 


488 


24 


Jefferson, 


4848 08 


Amelia, 


2889 


24 


Kanawha, - 


1585 13 


Amherst, 


3116 


85 


King George, 


1760 75 


Augusta, 


6717 


19 


King William, - 


2563 03 


Bath, 


848 


07 


King and Q,ueen, - 


2296 31 


Bedford, - 


4613 


99 


Lancaster, - 


989 79 


Berkeley, - 


3267 


48 


Lee, 


650 61 


Botetourt, - 


3760 


37 


Lewis, 


689 91 


Brooke, 


1287 


74 


Logan, 


176 84 


Brunswick, - 


3751 


56 


Loudoun, - 


8817 32 


Buckingham, 


5132 


87 


Louisa, 


3840 38 


Cabell, 


635 


66 


Lunenburg, 


2452 17 


Campbell, - 


6697 


10 


Madison, 


2211 51 


Caroline, 


4533 


33 


Mason, 


799 17 


Charles City, 


1413 


74 


Matthews, - 


950 07 


Charlotte, - 


4361 


41 


Mecklenburg, 


5104 96 


Chesterfield, 


5252 


08 


Middlesex, - 


806 90 


Culpeper, - 


3330 


94 


Monongalia, 


1392 52 


Cumberland, 


2985 


88 


Monroe, 


1203 65 


Dinwiddle, 


7042 


78 


Montgomery'-, 


1289 69 


Elizabeth City, - 


866 


58 


Morgan, 


536 84 


Essex, 


2423 


37 


Nansemond, 


2064 18 


Fairfax, 


2996 


18 


Nelson, 


2787 08 


Fauquier, - 


7344 


28 


NeAv Kent, - 


1257 88 


Fayette, 


215 


94 


Nicholas, - 


303 36 


Floyd, 


326 


31 


Norfolk County, - 


3728 33 


Fluvanna, - 


2132 


60 


Norfolk Borough, 


5723 80 


Franklin, - 


2194 


36 


Northampton, 


1982 74 


Frederick, - 


9119 


67 


Northumberland, 


1242 08 


Giles, 


553 


23 


Nottoway, - 


2580 87 


Gloucester, - 


2172 


50 


Ohio, 


2819 25 


Goochland, - 


3407 


87 


Orange, 


3852 50 


Grayson, 


468 


97 


Page, 


1341 42 


Greenbrier, - 


1671 


97 


Patrick, 


849 31 


Greensville, 


1983 


27 


Pendleton, - 


1090 98 


Halifax, - 


6178 


43 


Pittsylvania, 


5265 82 


Hampshire, 


2411 


92 


Pocahontas, 


373 29 


Hanover, - 


4689 


40 


Powhatan, - 


2792 87 


Hardy, 


2609 


49 


Preston, 


492 27 


Harrison, - 


1708 


27 


Princess Anne, - 


1907 50 


Henrico, 


14106 


68 


Prince Edward, - 


3814 89 


Henry, 


1201 


9(^ 


Prince George, - 


1941 49 



ro4 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Prince William, - 


- 


$2GG8 


48 


Surry, 


. 


- 


$1257 


49 


Randolph, - 


- 


- 


639 


47 


Sussex, 


- 


- 


2711 


55 


Rappahannock 


- 


^ 


1898 


13 


Smyth, 


* 


- 


089 


04 


Richmond, - 


- 


- 


1177 


08 


Tazewell, - 


- 


. 


727 


55 


Rockbridge, 


- 


- 


3195 


27 


Tyler, {710 rt 


(ur7is,) 








Rockingham, 


. 


. 


4928 


04 


Warwick, - 


- 


- 


350 


74 


Russell, 


- 


- 


6G9 


51 


Washington, 


- 


. 


2286 


10 


Scott, 


. 


- 


534 


63 


Westmorelan 


d, - 


- 


1560 


26 


Shenandoah, 


- 


- 


3534 


16 


Williamsburg, 


- 


382 


16 


Southampton, 


. 


- 


3096 


28 


Wood, 


. 


- 


1190 


11 


Spottsylvania, 


- 


- 


4103 


58 


Wythe, 


- 


- 


1901 


42 


Stafford, - 


2025 
nount of taxes incl 


81 


York, 


le. 




823 


45 


Total ai 


uded in -above tab 


$291580 


67 


Tax on licenses to 


me re ha 


nts, bro! 


vers, jewellers 










and auctioneers, 


- 


. 


68346 


66 






Ditto 


to 


pedlars, 


- 


. 


6455 


42 






Ditto 


to 


ordinary keepers. 


16636 


41 






Ditto 


to 


louses c 


f private entertainment, 


3305 


20 






Ditto 


to 


venders 


of lottery tickets, - 


4129 


69 






Ditto 


to 


shows, 




■ " ■ 


2310 


00 


101283 


88 









Deduct as the cstimatod amount of insolvents, overcharges, 
imascertaincd lands, and lands purchased for the com- 
monwealth, ... - - - . . 



392864 05 



3000 00 



Deduct sheriffs' commissions of 5 per cent. 19493 20 

Ditto ditto of 2^ per cent, for 

prompt payment, .... G871 09 



Add estimated nett amount from the county of Tyler, 



389864 05 



26364 29 

363499 76 
580 00 

$364079 76 



BANKS. 

Stafc of the Bank of the. Valley, i7icludififf its Officers of Discount and 
Dejwsiie, on the 2d day of December, 1883. 



Specie, 
Notes of other banks, 
Due from other banks, 
Bills and notes dis- ) 
counted, ^ 

Bond account, 
Real estate, 



$133,257 
127,398 
222,823 



1,229,233 75 

1,036 88 
80,445 91 



$1,794,106 31 



Capital stock, 


690,000 00 


Notes in circulation, 


875,185 00 


Due to other banks, 


12,068 27 


Discount, 


31,461 52 


Contingent fund, 


34,738 17 


Deposite money, 


150,743 35 




$1,794,196 31 



OF VIRGINIA 105 

State of the North-western Bank of Virginia, at Wheeling, November 

28th, 1833. 

Capital stock Branch at Wellsbnrg, - - - $50,000 00 

Dii ]• X J ^ bad 1,100 00 > - - «^^ „^^ ^^ 

Bills discounted, I .^ ^^^^ jg ^..^ g2 ^ _ _ 366,306 74 

Real Estate, ..... 2,820 00 

Due by Commonwealth of Virginia, - - - 770 00 

Due by other banks, - - - - - 18,782 06 

Due by expense account, ..... 539 25 

Specie on hand, . . _ . . 36,674 00 

Office notes, ...._. 1,530 00 

Notes of other banks, .... 89/268 00 

Bank notes stolen, .... 68,456 00 

Bank notes recovered, 



Specie stolen, 



Capital stock, . ^ . 

Bills in circulation, . . _ 

Profit an<i loss, ... 

Discount received and premiums, 
Due to Union Bank of Maryland, loan, 
Due to S. Jacob, cashier at Wellsburg, 
Due to other banks, 
Deposites, .... 



Stal^ of the North-icestcrn Bank of Virginia, Wellsburg Branch, No- 

vembcr 30th, 1833. 

Bills discounted, (no bad or doubtful debts) 
Due by other banks, -....- 

Due by John List, Cashier, . - . - . 

Due by expense account, . - - . - 

Specie on hand. --...-- 
Notes of other banks, . . . . . 



Capital stock. 

Bills in circulation, 

Profit and loss. 

Discounts received and premiums, 

Due to other banks. 

Due to depositors. 



14 



35,882 00 




32,574 00 




840 00 


53,414 00 




$600,104 05 


. 


624,500 00 


- 


179,450 00 


- 


9,040 14 


- 


8,886 65 


- 


20,000 00 


- 


377 14 


- 


50,900 39 


- 


66,949 73 




600,104 05 



94,231 


29 


12,539 


84 


287 


72 


220 


68 


19,877 


52 


30,628 


00 


$157,785 


05 


50,000 


00 


86,920 


00 


1,372 


38 


2,183 


33 


5,429 


23 


11,880 


11 


$157,785 


07 



106 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Detailed statement of the Bank of Virginia, and its several Branches, 

January 1st, 1834. 



*Debt outstanding: 
Richmond, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg', 
Fredericksburg, - 
Lynchburg, 
Danville, 
Charleston, 



Specie : 
Richmond 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksburg, - 
Lynchburg, 
Danville, 
Charleston, 



2,408,175 44 
726,273 81 

l,037,9r)r) 94 
648,335 12 
681,U46 79 
340,529 22 
268,085 13 

$6,200,402 45 



Stock of James River : 
Company 6 per 
cent stock, 

Real estate ; 
Richmnnd, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksburg, 
Lvnchburg, 



179,076 IG 

16,943 83 

86,750 15 

45,363 60 

16,366 84 

55,561 85 

35,863 40 



$435,925 83 



Notes of other banks: 

Richmond, - 24,155 

Norfolk, - 33,745 

Petersburg, - 3,615 

Fredericksburg, - 34,541 

Lynchburg, - 13,323 

Danville, - 10,745 

Charleston, - 10,630 



00 

m 

00 
15 

39 
00 
00 



Charleston, 

Balances due from other 

banks, 
Fredericksburg, - 



$130,TM 54 
19,336 46 



90,029 06 



$109,36 
Foreign hills of exeh-ange : 
Richmond, - 1' 45,766 52 

Petersburg, - 29,716 

Fredericksburg, - 



100,000 00 



114,465 89 

64,783 63 
78,658 52 
29,155 44 
25,843 77 



312,907 25 



Total, $7,406,425 68 



Capital stock : 

Notes in circulation: 
Richmond, 
Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 
Fredericksbttrg, ~ 
Lynchburg, 
Danville, 
Charleston, 



2,740,000 00 

821,000 00 
186,140 00 
585,065 00 
375,360 00 
435,240 00 
310,065 00 
256, 8&0 0€> 



$2,969,760 OO 
Balance due to other banks : 
Richmond, - 106,36^ 78 

Norfolk, - 15,774 24 

Petersburg, - 87,774 87 

Lynchburc:, - 3,686 38 

Danville, " - 900 14 



$214,444 41 
Balance the treasurer U. States: 
Richmond - 15,759 94 

Norfolk, - 9,000 00 

Petersburg, - 25,669 26 

Fredericksburg, - - 20 92 

1,587 231 Lynchburg, - - 83 21 



$177,070 09 



$50,553 30 



♦ In this item is included dcmiestic (»r inland bill's of exchange, 

at Richmond, 6P8,270 61 

at Petersburg, 383,556 34 

SI, 08 1,8-26 95 
The amount at oilier banks dues not appear as the returns do not distinguish,. 



OF VIRGINIA. 



107 



Deposite money : 




Danville, 


. 


27,129 22 


Richmond, 


999,070 


42 


Charleston, 


- 


9,174 60 


Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 


151,356 


9() 








95,016 


33 






<^1,491,687 88 


Fredericksburo-, 
Lynchburg, 


153,492 


57 








56,'447 


tJ 1 

78 


Total, 




7,466,425 68 




Capital Stock, 


Nctt profits for the year. 


Rate of per cent 


At Richmond, 


1,000,000 


171,715 49* 


17 


17 15 100 


•' Norfolk, 


440,000 


16,728 81 


3 


80 


" Petersburg, 


450,000 


42,750 29 


9 


50 


" Fredericksbur 


g, 300,000 


28,640 00 


9 


541 


" Lynchburg, 


300,000 


32,047 ^7 


10 


68^ 


" Danville, 


150,000 


15,687 17 


10 


46 


" Charleston, 


100,000 


11,349 92 


11 


35 




$2,740,000 


t 


18,919 55 making 


ans 


ig'ate of 1 1 64. 



State of the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, and its several Branches, \st 

January, 1834. 



Debt outstanc 


ing: 




Specie : 


Richmond, 




1,572,546 20 


Richmond, 


Norfolk, 


- 


692,482 78 


Norfolk, 


Petersburg, 


- 


642,170 54 


Petersburg, 


Fredericksburg, 


. 


562,310 61 


Fredericksburg 


Lynchburg, 


- 


576,851 93 


Lynchburg, 


Winchester, 


- 


378,614 26 


Winchester, 


Danville, 




56,360 00 


Danville, 




§54,471,336 32 





204,831 


20 


28,397 


61 


40,139 


70 


41,779 


30 


36,917 


00 


22,486 


40 


717 


70 


$375,268 91 


384,400 00 


323,391 


35 



♦ Including S35,.518 88 profit on bank stock sold — 
Whole amount of bad and doubtful debts reported last j'ear. 
Whole amount of surplus fund, after payment of the last dividend, 

Total of bad and doubtful debts to be provided for, - 61,008 65 

From which may be deducted whatever may be collected from the doubtful debts, 
and any gain by the destruction of notes in circulation, which may be fairly consi- 
dered as equal to the balance of bad and doubtful debts. 

Debts contracted and unpaid between the 1st January, 1833, and 1st January, 1834, 
viz. 

Richmond, 875,312 04 

Norfolk, ..-..-... 223,973 OO 

Petersburg, 413,272 68 

Fredericksburg, 189,983 78 

Lvnrhburg, 477,680 00 

Danville, 336,251 00 

Charleston, - 112,610 12 



Making a total of 
All of which is good. 



$2,629,082 62 



108 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 



Foreign Notes: 






Fredericksburg, - 


257,325 00 


Richmond 


50,636 


16 


Lynchburg, 


397,640 00 


Norfolk, 


37,204 


52 


Winchester, 


147,720 00 


Petersburg, 


4,663 


66 








Fredericksburg, - 


4,365 


00 


$1,887,608 00 


Lynchburg, 


9,205 


00 






Winchester, 


22,239 


97 


Due to other banks: 




Danville, 


615 


00 


Richmond, 

Norfolk 


126,958 76 
29,455 94 




$128,929 


31 


66,998 96 Petersburg, 


Bank stock: 






Frcd'ksburg 


, 33,387 80 


Richmond, 


23,715 


50 


5,116 05 Lynchburg, 




Fredericksburg, - 


10,876 


00 


Winchester, 
1,124 65 Danville, 


11,625 31 












$34,591 


50 






Real Estate ; 


73,239 6G 


201,427 81 


Richmond, 


91,918 


09 




73,239 66 


Norfolk, 
Petersburg, 


38,488 
35,791 


67 

48 








128,188 15 


Fredericksburg, - 


17,421 


65 


Deposite money ; 




Lynchburg, 


22,993 


58 


Richmond, 


811,080 29 


Winchester, 


24,490 


18 


Norfolk, 


91,161 43 

137,383 33 

75,746 22 




$231,043 65 


J. trLvloUlllt:, 

Fredericksburg, - 








Lynchburg, 


91,704 47 










$5,241,169 


69 


Winchester, 


18,036 14 


Stock: - 


2,000,000 


00 


Danville, 


261 66 


T^rifpQ in f*i rpn 11 1 in'"* * 








i^LllCO ill l^lll^lliU-HVl 

Richmond, 


552,688 


00 


1 


,225,373 54 


Norfolk 


155 600 


00 






Petersburg, 


376,635 


00 


Total $5 


,241,169 69 



Statement of bad and doubtful debts due the Farmers^ BanJc of Virginia^ 
on the ist January, 1834, and also the contingent fund: 

Bad debt last year, . . . . . 178,833 45 

Doubtful, ...... 155,231 26 



Contingent fund, 
Profit in stock, 

Deficiency, 

Bad debt as above, 
Extinguished during the year, 



Doubtful as above, 



$334,064 71 
105,015 14 
53,038 50 158,053 64 



176,011 07 

178,833 45 
46,507 53 

132,325 93 
155,231 26 



OF VIRGINIA. 



109 



Contlng-ent fund, iucluding January, 1834, 
Profit on 502 shares of stock, valued at par, 

Total bad and doubtful debt provided for, 



287,556 18 
159,488 39 
15,608 50 — 175,096 89 



$112,460 30 



From which should be deducted whatever may be received, from debts 
reported doubtful, and any gain by loss of notes in circulation. 



Amount of debts contracted at the Farmers' Bank of Virginia and its 
Branches, during the year 1833, and which remained unpaid on 1st Janu- 
ary, 1834. 

Bank at Richmond, - - - . . 965,387 13 

Fredericksburg, - - - . 496,180 23 

Petersburg, - - - . . 357,122 26 

Norfolk, - - - - . 176,163 62 

" Wmchester. ..... 96,047 00 



$2,090,900 24 



State of the Farmers^ BcmJc of Virginia, including the branches Igt 

Ja/iuary, 1834. 
4,471,336 32|Stock, 
375,268 91 Notes in circulation. 



Debts outstanding, 
Specie, 

Foreign Notes, - 
Bank Stock, 
Real Estate, 



128,929 31 

34,591 50 

231,043 65 



,241,169 69 



Profits of Richmond, 13 58 per cent. 
Norfolk, 3 18 

Petersburg, 11 08 

Fredericksburg, 12 41 
Winchester, 6 71 

Danville, 3 97 

Aggregate profits, 1 07 

Contingent fund, 159,488 39 



Due to other banks, 
Deposite money, 



2,000,000 00 
1,817,608 00 
128,188 15 
1,225,373 54 

$5,241,169 69 



In this estimate, the profits on bank 
stock purchased some years ago, and 
sold in 1833, are not included, not 
belonging to the usual business esti- 
mated — but being actually received, 
add that to the current profits, and the 
profits of Richmond, are 21 60 pr. ct. 
Norfolk, 4 10 " 



REMARKS. 

Arrangement pursued in the description of counties. 

We have now completed our " General Description of Virginia ;" having 
presented in the first part a view of Nulural Virgiyiia, comprehending her 
Situation, Boundaries, Extent, Face of the Country, Mineralogy and Geol- 
ogy, Scenery and Natural Curiosities, Mountains, Bays, Harbours, Rivers, 
&c. and in the second, her Moral and Political Condition: — under which 
head we included. Population, Religion, Government and Laws, Arms 
and Military Organization, Provisions for the Insane, Penitentiary, Inter- 
nal Improvement, Manufactures, Agriculture, Commerce, and Fiscal Con- 
cerns. We now proceed to give a more detailed account of the same sub- 
jects, taking the State, County, by County, in alphabetical order, and giving 
the origin of the county, an accurate and generally minute account of its 
topography, and a detail of the number, occupation, &c. of its Citizens, 
and of each Town and Village. In order to present a more condensed and 
connected view, than would have been possible by taking the counties of the 
whole State at once into consideration, in the confused order which an al- 
phabetical arrangement Avovild present ; and as that arrangement was abso- 
lutely necessary for covenience of reference, we have divided the State into 
Eastern and V^estern Virginia, at the Blue Ridge, and made an alphabeti- 
cal arrangement of the counties of each portion separately. The Towns, 
Villages, Post Offices, ^c. are arranged in Alphabetical order in the coun- 
ties to which they respectively belong; the Comity Town, and other places 
of more than usual importance, being distinguished by a larger type. An 
Alphabetical Index of all the places mentioned, and general subjects treated 
of, is at the end of the volume. 

Under the head of Eastern Virginia, we will consider all of the 
counties east of the Blue Ridge. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA. 



AC COM AC* 



This county was ci'eated by act of Assembly in 1G72, and formed out 
of part of Northampton Co. It is the northernmost of the tAvo counties 
Avhich compose the " Eastern Shore of Virginia," and extends from the 
Atlantic to the Chesapeake. It is bounded E. by the Atlantic, S. by 
Northampton Co. W. by Chesapeake bay, N. W. by Pocomoke bay, and 
N. by Worcester Co. Md. It extends from 37° 28' to 38° 2' N. lat. 
and from 1° 24' tol° 46' E. long, from Washington. Its greatest length 
is from S. S. W. to N. N. E. 48 m's.its mean width about 10 m's., its area 
480 sq. miles. Much of its surface is composed of sand-banks and islands 
upon the coast, its real arable superficies is only about 400 sq. miles, much 
of which is .fertile, and the surface level. It produces well, wheat, corn, 
cotton, oats, &.c. and peas, beans, potatoes, and other table vegetables in 
great abundance. Population in 1820, 15,966, in 1830, 19,656, of the latter 
4,495 were white males, 4,969 white females, and the rest people of colour. 
This county belongs to the third judicial circuit and second district: — Taxes 
in 1832-3, $3,081 22; in 1838-4, on lots $52 34— land, $1,858 87 ;— on 
2385 slaves, $594 25,-2522 horses, $151 32—9 studs, $131 00—16 
coaches, $33-31 carryalls, $36 70—461 gigs, $311 20— total $3170 68. 
Amount expended in educating poor children, in 1832, $592 22 — in 1833, 
$692 92. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. 

ACCOMAC C. H. or Drummon(h-\'n\ March, June, August and Noveni' 
Town, is situated 214 m's. E. of R. Ucr. Judge Upshur holds his Cir- 
and 206 S. E. of W. in lat. 47°. 54, jcuit Superior Court of La av and Chan- 
Besides a brick Court House and eery on I'llh of Maij,iii\A \bth of Oc- 



Jail, the town contains a Methodist 
house of worship, and 39 dwelling 
houses. There is one common school 



lober. 

Bell Haven, P. O. 226 m's. S. E, 
of W. and 194 from R. situated in the 



in the place, and 4 attorneys, 2 phy-S. E. part of the county, 20 m's. from 
sicians, 3 mercantile stores, 1 {■a.r\\\Q-\DruinmonfVs Toirn, and 194 S. S. E. 
ry, 2 saddle and harness makers, 3 'of Annapolis 



tailors, 3 cabinet makei'S, 1 watch and 
clock maker, 1 carriage maker, 2 



HoRNTowN, P. V. ISO m's. S. E. 
of W. and 240 from R. situated on a 



boot and shoe factories; and 3 grist ! navigable stream, by Avhich vessels 

mills in the vicinity. Population 240. [drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, as- 

Counti/ Courts, arc held on the last \ ccnd Avithin a mile of the town, and on 

Moiidat/oi every moiiih: — Quarter/ 1/,' the post road leading I'rom Drum- 



112 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



mo7uVs Town, to Snow Hill, 2G m's. ' 
N. N. E, from the former and 16 N. 
W. of the latter. It contains 15 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house 
of worship, 1 common school, 2 
taverns, and 4 mercantile stores, 1 
house carpenter, 1 hatter, 1 wheel- 
Wright, 1 tanyard, 2 shoe and boot 
manufactories, and 1 milliner and 
mantiiamaker. Population 150. 

Modest Town, P. V. 192 m's. 
from W. and 248 from R. situated 10 
miles east of Drummondstoicn, 2 
from navigable tide-water, and 3 from 
the Atlantic Ocean. It contains G 
dwelling houses, 1 Baptist, and 1 Me-i 
•thodist house of worship, 1 Sabbath | 
school, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, I 
i boot and shoemaker, 1 smith shop. : 
Population 43 persons; of whom 1 is' 
a physician. This place abounds 
with fish, oysters and clams. The 
soil in the neighbourhood is fertile, and t 
produces well corn, wheat, rye, oats, 



peas, beans, potatoes and other vegeta- 
bles in great variety. 

OxANcocK Crkek, P. O. 2I0m's. 
S. E. of W. and 209 from R. situated 
on the Chesapeake shore, 8 m's. S. W. 
by W. of Dn(inmo7uhtoirn. 

PuNGOTEAGiiE, P. O. 2 1 8 m's from 
W. and 202 from R. situated 1-^- miles 
from the head of Pungoteague creek, 
and 12 m's. from Drvmmondstoicn. 
The country around produces in abun- 
dance, wheat, corn, oats, cotton, pota- 
toes, <fec. The trade from the creek 
of this name employs five regular 
coasting A'essels. The population of 
the village is 100, it contains 1 physi- 
cian. There are 20 dwelling houses, 
1 Methodist and 1 Episcopalian house 
of worship, a common school, a ta- 
vern, a grist mill, a mercantile store, 
tanyard, tailor, boot and shoemaker, 
and a smith shop. Warrant tryings 
are held here on the 3d Monday in 
every month. 



AL.Bli]MAl4LE. 

"Tins county was created by the Legislature in 1744, from a part of 
tiTOOchland County. It is bounded N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which sep- 
arates it from Augusta and Rockingham, N. E. by the southern part of 
Orange, E. by Louisa and Fluvanna, S. by James River which separates it 
from Buckingham, and S. W. by Nelson. Its length from S. W. to N. 
E. is 35 miles, its mean width 20, and area 700 sq. m's. The parallel of N. 
lat. 38° passes A-ery nearly through the centre of the county, which is 
Ukewise the case with long. 1° 30' W. of Washington. The northern part of 
this county is drained by the Rivanna and its constituent creeks, which 
uniting below Charlottesville, pass through the South West Mountain, 
and enter Fluvanna some miles below. The soxilhern portion of the 
county is drained by the waters of the Hardware, which rises by 2 branches, 
the one in North Garden, and the other in South Garden, Avhich uniting at 
the foot of the S. W. Mountain flow between the portions of it known by 
the local name of Carter's and Green-Mountain, and passes also into Flu- 
vanna, before its junction with James River. 

There is little of the soil of Albemarle absolutely barren, and in the 
mountain valleys, and river or creek bottoms it is exceedingly fertile, Avhilst 
the undulating hills which intervene are susceptible of almost unlimited 
improvement by judicious cultivation. The scenery in all parts of the county 
js exceedmgly beautiful and picturesque; we know of no portion of the 
state Avhich prcrscnls such a number and Aarietv of beautiful prospects as 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



113 



may he seen from the hills of Albemarle. This county belongs to the 
twelfth judicial circuit and sixth district. Population in 1820, 19,750 — 
•in 1830, 22,618. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $6,842 58—1833-4, on lots $335- 
43— lands $4,092 65 -, on 6439 slaves, $1,609 75—5270 horses, $316 56— 
16 studs, $239 34 — 96 coaches, $243 75 — 43 carryalls, $43 50—47 gigs, 
$29 35 — Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $590 74 — 
in 1834, $805 37. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &a 

Batesi'ILLe, p. O. and Electio?i\sihout 20 general mercantile establish- 
!precinct, generally called Oliver^ s\ments. There is 1 Female Acade- 
^Id Store, situated on the Scottsville my, in which young ladies are taught 
•and Staunton turnpike, 20 m's. fromlall the useful branches of education, 



fthe former, and 25 from the latter. It 
■has 12 scattering dwelling houses, 3 
general stores, 1 tan yard and 1 
blacksmith shop. In the vicinity 
'there is 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist 
■house of worship. The population is 
70 ; of whom 1 is a physician. 

Brown's Cove, P. O. 109 m's. N. 
W. of R., and 136 from W. situated 
^n the northern part of the county. 

Brooksville, p. O. situated at the 
junction of the Rivanna and Rockfish 
"turnpike with the Scottsville and 



as well as the elegant accomplish- 
ments, it is well conducted and flou- 
rishing, having generally from 30 to 
40 pupils; there is also an elementary 
scTiool for boys; and a school to pre- 
pare youths for the University is 
labout to be established on a perma- 
nent footing by a young gentleman 
said to be entirely competent to its 
proper management: if such be the 
case it will certainly flourish, as svich 
a school is much wanted, and the tem- 
porary schools hitherto established 



Staunton turnpike ; 101 m's. N. W of have met with remarkable success. 



R., and 20 S. W. of Charlottesville 
Carter's Bridgi:, P. O. situated 
at the passage of Hardware through 
,S. W. Mountain, 133 m's. from 
Washington, and 91 from R. 

CHARLOTTESVILLE, P. T. 
and county seat, 123 m's. S. W. from 
Washington, and 81 N. W. by W. 
from R. It is "beautifully situated, 
N. lat. 38° 3', long. 1° 5' W. of 
Washington, a mile east of the Uni 
versity of Virginia, and 3 m's. N. W 



The town has a circulating library of 
well selected books. 

An Agricultural Society which 
boasts among its members the princi- 
pal farmers of this and the neighbour- 
ing counties, holds its semi-annual 
meetings liere ; at the fall meetmg 
there is an exhibition of live stock, and 
domestic fabrics, and premiums are 
awarded for the best productions. 
The mechanical occupations are as 
follows: — 1 printing ofiice, issuing a 



from Monticello, in a fertile and well {weekly paper, and frequently engaged 
Avatered valley, on the right bank of in books and pamphlets, 4 tailorins: 



the Rivanna river, at the intersection 
of the main post roads leading from 
Lynchburg, Staunton, and Lexing- 



establishments which give employ- 
ment to a number of hands, 3 tan 
yards, 3 saddlers, 1 tin plate worker, 



ton, to Washington, Alexandria and '2 cabinet makers, 3 wheelwrights, 1 
Richmond. It contains besides thejchair maker, house and sign painter, 
ordinary county buildings, 1 Episco- 2 coach and gig manufactories, 2 
palian, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Baptist, andjjewellers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 
1 Methodist house of worship, 3 large which employs a number of hands, 1 
and commodious hotels, 1 tavern,"2 hatter, 2 confectioners, 4 blacksmith's 
bookstores, 2 druggist's stores, and'shops, 1 brick yard, 2 book binders, 
15 



114 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



several house carpenters, bricklayers, 
6lc. The professional men are 6 at- 
torneys at law, 6 physicians and 3 
surgeon dentists. The whole popu- 
lation by an accurate census recently 
taken expressly for this work is 957 ; 
viz : white males 290 — females 260 — 
free blacks 59 — slaves 348. 

The village is provided with" a fire 
engine, and company attached; and 
boasts a large and well disciplined 
corps of volunteers. The navigation 
of the Rivanna has recently been 
opened by locks and dams, and boats 
with their lading can now ascend to 
Pireus, within a mile and a quarter 
of Charlottesville, which is a depot 
for the produce of the northern and 
middle part of this county, part of Au- 
gusta, and will be for Rockingham 
and the counties beyond it, when a 
road which has been located and com 
menced from Charlottesville to Har- 
risonburg shall have been completed. 
A neat and permanent covered bridge 
has recently been erected at a cost of 
$4,000 over the Rivanna River, on 
the post road leading from Charlottes- 
ville to Alexandria, D. C. Several 
lines of daily stages pass through this 
town. Charlottesville is a healthy 
place, and for the most part compactly 
though irregularly built, the houses 
are generally of brick, of which there 
are about 200, large, handsome, and 
comfortable dwellings. The surface 
on which the town stands is elevated 
from 5 to 700 feet above the tide ofl 
the ocean, and the vicinity is salubri- 
ous, and the soil fertile, producing in 
abundance, wheat, corn, oats, tobacco, 
&/C. In the neighbourhood are seve- 
ral extensive flour manufacturing, 
grist, and saw mills, and 2 carding 
machines. The country aroimd is 
thickly settled, abounding with hand- 
some and valuable farms, well culti- 
vated and rapidly improving. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly, 
March, June, August, and November. 
Judge Tiioivipson opens his Circuit 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the lO^A of May, and \Oth of Oc- 
tober. 

CovEsviLLE, p. V. 145 m's. S. W. 
of W., and 103 N. W. by W, of R., 
situated in the Avestern part of the 
county, 22 m's. from Charlottesville, 
on the stage road leading from that 
place to Lynchburg. It contains sev- 
eral dwelling houses, 1 general store, 
1 house of entertainment, 1 tan yard, 
1 milliner and mantua, maker, and 1 
Presbyterian house of worship. Pop- 
ulation 30. 

Dyer's Old Store, P. O. 133 o 
m's. S. W. of W. and 96 from R. 

EVERETTSVILLE, P. O. 116 m's. 

S W. of W., and 74 from R.; it con- 
tains a tavern, 1 general store, a 
blacksmith's and a wheelwright's 
shop. 

Earlysville, is pleasantly situ- 
ated 1^ m's. E. of Longwood, and 
13 N. of Charlottesville. It contains 

7 dwellings, 1 tavern, 1 general store, 
1 tailor, 1 wheelwright, 1 black- 
.smith's shop, and 1 tan yard. Popu- 
lation 35. 

Garland's Store, P. O. 137 m's. 
from W., and 95 from R. 

Hardin's Tavern, P. O. 130 m's. 
S. W. of W., and 88 from R., situated 

8 miles W. of Charlottesville; near it 
the Methodists have a house of wor- 
ship called Shiloe. 

Hydravlic Mills, P. O. 112 S. 
W. of W. and 100 W. of R., 6 miles 
from Charlottesvile. 

Laurel Spring, P. O. 167 m*s. 
from W., and 25 m's. W. of Char- 
lottesville. 

Lindsey's Store, P. O. 76 m's, 
W. of R. and 108 from W, 

Longwood, P. V. 94 m's. N. W. 
by W. of R. and 136 S. W. of W. it 
ha^ several dwelling houses. Popu- 
la^on 30. One physician. 
■^'Milton, 120 ms. S. W. of W. and 
81 N. W. by W. of R. and 6 miles 
S. E. of Charlottesville: — situated 
on the right bank of the Rivanna, and 
a mile and a half from the main stage 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



115 






road leading from Charlottesville to 
Richmond. It was formerly a place 
of some trade, being- the head of boat 
navigation, but the imperfect slate of 
the navigation and the competition of 
Scottsville and Charlottesville have 
caused it to go to ruin. It contains 
16 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, and I tanyard; — It has a plea- 
sant and romantic situation, upon a 
high spur or abutment of Monticello 
mountain, which places it far above 
the level of the river. — On the oppo- 
site side of the riv-^er, there is a Bap- 
tist church and a grist mill. Popu- 
lation 60 whites and 10 free blacks. 

Moreman's River, P. O. 143 ms. 
from W. and 104 from R.— N. W. of 
Charlottesville, and in the N. W. an 
gle of the county; it has a house of 
/■private entertainment, one general 
■ store and a blacksmith shop. 

Monticello. — We have seen no 
where so true, so accurate, or so beau- 
tiful a description of the dwelling 
place of the Great Apostle of Liberty, 
as in Wirt's "■Eulogy upon Adams 
and Jefferson.''^ We are glad to have 
an opportunity of relieving the tedium 
of dry statistic detail, by so rich a 
specimen of taste. " Let us now turn 
for a moment to the patriot of the 
South. The Roman mora Hist, in that 
great work which he has left for the 
government of man in all the ofRces 
of life, has descended even to proscribe 
the kind of habitation in which an 
honored and distinguished man should 
dwell. It should not, he says, be 
small, and mean, and sordid : nor, on 
the other hand, extended with profuse 
and wanton extravagance. It should 
be large enough to receive and accom- 
modate the visiters which such a man 
never fails to attract, and suited in its 
ornaments, as Avell as in its dimen- 
sions, to the character and fortune of 
the individual. Monticello has now 
lost its great charm. 

" Those of you who have not alrea- 
dy visited it, will not be very apt to 
visit it hereafter: and from the feel- 



ings which you cherish for its depart' 
ed owner, I persuade myself that you 
will not be displeased with a brief and 
rapid sketch of that abode of domes- 
tic bliss, that temple of science. Nor 
is it, indeed, foreign to the express pur- 
pose of this meeting, which, in look- 
ing to ' his life and character,' natu- 
rally embraces his home and his do- 
mestic habits. Can any thing be in- 
different to us, which was so dear to 
him, and which was a subject of such 
just admiration to the hundreds and 
thousands that were continually re- 
sorting to it, as an object of pious pil- 
grimage? 

" The Mansion House at Monti- 
cello was built and furnished in the 
days of his prosperitJ^ In its dimen- 
sions, its architecture, its arrangements 
and ornaments, it is such a one as be- 
came the character and fortune of the 
man. It stands upon an elliptic plain, 
formed by cutting down the apex of a 
mountain; and, to the west, stretching 
away to the north and the south, it 
commands a view of the Blue Ridge 
for a hundred and fifty miles, and 
brings under the eye one of the bold- 
est and most beautiful horizons in the 
world; while on the east, it presents 
an extent of prospect boimded only by 
the spherical form of the earth, in 
which nature seems to sleep in eter- 
nal repose, as if to form one of her 
finest contrasts with the rude and rol- 
ling grandeur of the west. In the 
wide prospect, and scattered to the 
north and south, are several detached 
mountains, which contribute to ani- 
mate and diversify this enchanting 
landscape ; and among them, to the 
south Willis's mountain,* which is 

* This mountain, which is in the county 
of Buckingham, at a distance of 70 miles 
from R. consists of two conical peaks jut- 
ting from the plain, which often at sunrise 
on a clear morning, assume every possible 
variety of lorm, and in each appears so 
natural, that one seeing it for the first time, 
would suppose each its natural shape. 
This beautiful illusion is produced by the 
rising of the clouds towards the summit of 
th.. mountain, on the rising of the sun. 



116 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLi:. 



so intorestingly depictec] in his Notes, 
From this summit, the Philosopher 
was wont to enjoy that spectaclc,among 
the sublimest of Nature's operations, 
the loomingof the distant mountains; 
and to watch the motions of the plan- 
ets, and the greater revolution of the 
celestial sphere. From this summit, 
too, the patriot could look down Avith 
uninterrupted vision, upon the wide 
expanse of the world around, for which 
he considered himself born; and up- 
ward to the open and vaulted heavens, 
Avhich he seemed to approach, as if 
to keep him continually in mind of 
his high responsibility. It is indeed 
a prospect in which you see and feel, 
at once, that nothing mean or little 
could live. It is a scene fit to nourish 
those great and high-souled principles 
Avhich fonued the elements of his cha- 
racter, and was a most noble and ap- 
propriate post for such a sentinel, over 
the rights and liberties of men. 

"Approaching the house on the 
east, the visiter instinctively paused to 
cast around one thrillmg glance at 
this magnificent pduorama: and then 
passed to the vestibule, where, if he 
had not been previously informed, he 
would immediately perceive that he 
was entering the house of no common 
man. In the spacious and lofty hall 
which opens before him, he marks 
no tawdry and unmeaning ornaments : 
but before, on the right, on the left, 
all around, the eye is struck and grati- 
fied by objects of science and taste, so 
classed and arranged as to produce 
their finest efTect. On one side, spe- 
cimens of sculpture set out in such 
order, as to exhibit at a "coup d' Oil, 
the historical progress of that art, 
from the first rude attempts of the ab- 
origines of our country, up to that ex- 
quisite and finished bust of the great 
patriot himself, from the master hand 
of Caracci. On the other side the 
visiter sees displayed a vast collection 
of specimens of the Indian art, their 
paintings, weapons, ornaments, and 
manufactures; on another an array of 



the fossil productions of our coirntiy,- 
mineral and animal; the polished re- 
mains of those colossal monsters that 
once trod our forests, and are no more; 
and a variegated display of the branch- 
ing honors of those 'monarchs of the 
waste,' that still people the wilds of 
the American Continent. 

" From this hall he was ushered into 
a noble saloon, from which the glorious 
landscape of the westagain bursts up- 
on his view; and which, Avithin, is 
hung thick around with the finest pro- 
ductions of the pencil- — historical 
paintings of the most striking subjects, 
from all countries, and all ages; the 
portraits of distinguished men and 
patriots, both of Europe and America,, 
and medallions, and engravings in 
endless profusion. 

" While the visiter was yet lost im 
the contemplation of these treasures? 
of the arts and sciences, he Avas start- 
led by the approach of a strong and 
sprightly step, and turning with in- 
stinctiA'e reverence to the do©r of en- 
trance, he Avas met by the tall, and ani- 
mated, and stately figure of the pat- 
riot himself — his countenance beam- 
ing Avith intelligence and benignity, 
and his outstretched hand, Avith its 
strong and cordial pressure, confirm- 
ing the courteous Aveleome of his lips. 
And then came the charm of manner 
and conversation that passes all de- 
scription — so cheerful — so unassum- 
ing — so free, and easy, and frank, and 
kind, and gay, — that even the young 
and overaAved.and embarrassed visiter 
forgets his fears, and felt himself by 
the side of an old and familiar friend." 

Mr. Jefferson states in his Notes 
that Monticello is 500 feet above the 
RiA'anna Avhich runs at its base; it is 
the most northern of the portion of the 
South West mountain, called by the 
'ocal name of Carter's mountain. 
The late proprietor injured the ap- 
pearance of Monticello A-ery much by 
cutting doAvn the beautiful shade and 
ornamental trees for the purpose of 
cultivation ; but it is believed that the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



H7 



/ 



deep veneration entertained by the pre- 
sent owner for the character of Mr. 
Jefferson, and the respect he enter- 
tains even for the inanimate objects 
associated with his memory, will lead 
him to restore it, as far as possible to 
the candition in which he left it, and 
attend carefally to the preservation of 
every object which could be supposed 
to have occupied his attention, or added 
beauty to his residence. The curiosi- 
ties of which Mr. Wirt speaks were 
presented to the University of Virgi- 
nia, the paintings Ave believe Avere 
sold, the bust was bought by Congress. 
— A simple massive granite obelisk 
marks the grave of Jefferson, with the 
unostentatious inscription written by 
himself, which speaks only of being 
the "Author of the Declaration of 
Independence, and the Founder of 
the University of Virginia;" thus 
showing how much more highly the 
venerable sage regarded the bursting 
of the fetters Avhich bound the free- 
dom of the people, and the emancipa- 
tion of the mind from the chains of 
ignorance, — t^n all his civic tri- 
umphs. ^.X"*^ 

Mount Alto, P. 0. 156 ms. S. 
W. by W. of W. and 97 ms. from R. 

Mount Israel P. O. 145 ms. S. 
W. of W. and 103 from R.— 17 ms. 
N. W. of Charlottesville. 

New York, P. V. 143 ms. S. S. 
W. of W. and 101 from R.— It is 
situated in the Avestern part of the 
county, near the foot of the Blue Ridge ; 
it contains 15 houses, 2 general stores, 
1 tanyard, 1 jackscreAA' manufacturer, 
1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 black- 
smith's shop — Population 70. 

ScoTTsviLLE, formerly Scott's 
Ferry, is 150 miles S. W. of Wash- 
ington, and 83 W. of Richmond. It 
is situated on the N. bank of James 
river, 20 miles W. S. W. of Char- 
lottesville. This place has improA-ed 
rapidly in the last 4 years, and is yet 
a flourishing village. It contains 1 20 
houses, chiefly of brick; one Metho- 
dist and one Presbyterian house of 



worship, a male and a female school, 
and tAvo Sunday schools, nine gene- 
ral and five grocery stores, and one 
apothecaries shop. The principal 
manufactures are clothing, leather 
shoes, cabinet work, and earthen Avare. 
An inspection of flour and tobacco is 
established in this place, of the former 
the average quantity inspected and 
sold is 3500 barrels. Scottsville car- 
ries on an extensive trade in flour, 
bacon, butter, lard, and other pro- 
ducts, Avith the counties of Nelson, 
Augusta, Rockbridge, Rockingham, 
Bath, Pendleton, and Pocahontas; 
these products are exchanged for 
groceries, gypsum, coarse cotton and 
Avoollen cloths and money. The mar- 
ket of Scottsville is ready and tempt- 
ing to the producer, the only fault of 
its enterprising merchants being that 
they pay prices too liberal for their 
OAvn prosperity, and this cause only 
has lately gn^en a temporary check 
to the rising of the toAvn. A tri- 
Aveekly line of stages passes through 
it, communicating Avith Richmond 
and Staunton. ScottSAalle being situ- 
ated at the extreme northwestern bend 
of the navigable Avater of James river, 
Avould probably acquire an immense 
increase of trade, if the James and 
KanaAvha improA^ement is carried in- 
to effect. There is a savings institu- 
tion in the toAvn. It has tAvo resident 
attorniesand four regular phj-sicians; 
its Avhole population is about 600. 

Shadavell Mills, — erected by Mr. 
.Jefferson, on the Rivanna near the spot 
of his birth ; they carry on an exten- 
sive business, having a large mer^ 
chant, grist, and saw mill, with a 
carding machine, &c. The main 
stage road from Charlottesville to 
Richmond runs by them. 

Stoney Point, P. V. 71 ms. N. 
W. by W. of Richmond, and 113 
from Washington — in the N. E. part 
of the county. 

University of Virginia, P. O. 
situated one mile W. of Charlottes- 
ville, 124 W. of S. W. from Wash- 



118 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



ington, and 82 N. W. by W. of Rich- 
mond. This institution was founded 
in 1819, under the immediate supcr- 
A'ision of Mr. Jeflerson, and organised 
in 1825, and had the same year 123 
students, and has been gradually in- 
creasing until in 1834 it had 208, — 
Its Library contains nearly 10,000 
volumes; its philosophical and chemi- 
cal apparatus are very complete, and 
it has a handsome cabinet of 7nine- 
rals. There is also an anatomical 
and a general museum, and an astro- 
nomical observatory, with the requi- 
site instruments. The importance of 
this institution to the state renders it 
necessary to give a fuller detail of its 
management and regulations than of 
similar institutions. 

Matriculation. — To be admit- 
ted into the Universit}% the Student 
must be sixteen years of age ; but 
the Faculty are authorised to dis- 
pense with this requisition in the case 
of application for admission by two 
brothers, one of Avhom is under the 
age of sixteen. 

If the applicant for admission has 
been a student at any other incorpor- 
ated seminary, he cannot be received, 
but on producing a certificate from 
such seminary, or other satisfactory 
evidence to the Faculty, wiih respect 
to his general good conduct. 

Every Student is free to attend the 
Schools of his choice, and no other 
than he choses ; provided, that if un- 
der the age of twenty-one, he shall 
attend at least three professors, unless 
he has the written authority of his 
parent or guardian, or the Faculty 
shall, for good cause shewn, allow 
him to attend less than three. The 
qualifications of the Student to enter 
the Schools of Antient Languages, 
Mathematics, and Natural Philoso- 
phy, are tested by previous examina- 
tions. 

Before a student matriculates, he is 
furnished Avith a copy of the laws, 
which he is required to read. On 
matriculating, he sicfns a Avrittcn de- 



claration, that he will conform to those 
laws, and, if he be a resident student, 
that he has deposited with the Patron 
all the funds in his possession. 

Course of Instruction. — In 
each school, there are three regular 
lectures a week; besides which, there 
are in most of them extra lectures 
suited to the several classes into which 
the school is divided. The mode of 
instruction is by text-books and lec- 
tures, accompanied by rigid examina- 
tions. The course pursued in each 
school, is as follows. 

Ancient Languages. Profes- 
sor Harrison. — In this school are 
taught the Latin and Greek Lan- 
guages, and Literature, and the He- 
brew Language. The instruction, 
given by prelections and examina- 
tions, comprises the following sub- 
jects: 

1. The formation and composition 
of words, and the laws by which they 
are governed. 

2. The primary and secondary 
signification of words and the princi- 
ples by which they must be ascer- 
tained. ,» 

3. Syntax. — The relations which 
words sustain to each other in a sen- 
tence, are taught at the same time and 
in connexion with their endings, the 
latter serving, with the aid of prepo- 
sitions, &c., as signs of the former. 
The importance of attending to the 
order in which words are arranged 
in a sentence, and of being careful to 
read the words and members of a sen- 
tence just as they stand in the Latin 
and Greek authors, is insisted upon. 
The other idomatic peculiarities are 
carefully noticed. 

4. Metres and Quantity. — These 
are objects of constant attention. 

5. The Greek and Roman, Histo- 
ry, Geography and Literature, are 
taught by prelections, and by com- 
menting on portions of the text-books 
appointed to be read. These form 
part of the studies of the senior classes. 

The text-books are : 



Eastern Virginia— albemarle. 



119 



In the Junior Latin Class: — Ho- 
race, Cicero's Epistles acl Divcrsos, 
Terence, and Ccesar's Commentaries; 
the last chiefly with a view to the writ- 
ten exercises. Zumpt's Latin Cxram- 
mar is referred to. The student should 
have Lempriere's Classical Dictiona- 
ry, new edition by Anthon, in two 
vols.; Adams' Roman Antiquities, and 
the Ancient, with the corresponding 
Modern Maps of the series published 
by the "Society for the diffusion 
of useful knowledge," or the " ^ton 
Comparative Atlas." 

In the Senior Latin Class: — Juve- 
nal, Livy, and Tacitus. Of both Livy 
and Tacitus the student should have 
the whole works, so far as they re- 
main. 

In the Junior Greek Class: — Xe- 
nophon's Anabasis, a play of Euri- 
pides, or ^schylus, and Herodotus. 
Buttmann's Greek Grammar, is re- 
rerred to:^^the " Larger" Grammar 
of Buttmann, by Robinson, is to be 
preferred. Donnegan's Greek and 
English Lexicon, and Thiersch's 
Greek Tables by Patton, are recom- 
mended. 

In the Senior Greek Class: — Eu- 
ripides, Sophocles, Thucydides, and 
Homer. In the prelections to this 
class, it is attempted to introduce the 
student into the higher departments of 
grammatical criticism; references are 
made to the large Grammar of Mat- 
thioe, and to the annotations of Por- 
son, Schaefer, Hermann, Erfurdt, 
Elmsley, <fcc. 

In Roman History, &c. — The stu- 
dents are advised to read the early 
part of Hooke's Roman History, with 
Ferguson's Roman Republic, Nieb- 
uhr's Roman History, and Heeren's 
Manual: also, Montesquieu's "Gran- 
deur et decadence des Romains," and 
Dunlop's History of Roman Litera- 
ture. 

In Grecian Hislury, &«. : — The 
History of Greece published by the 
Society for the Diffusion of Useful 
Knowledge, is the text-book. Refer- 



ence is made to Mitford, Gillies, &c. 
In both Grecian and Roman History, 
pains is taken to point out the ancient 
authorities. 

In Hebreic: — Biblia Hebraica.edit. 
Van Der Hooght, by D'Allemand, 
London ; or the revised edition by 
Aug. Hahn, Leipsic; which is better. 
Stuart's Hebrew Grammar, 3d edi- 
tion, and Gesenius's Hebrew Lexicon, 
by Gibbs : [not the abridgement.] 

It is expected of the students of La- 
tin and Greek, that they wall read in 
their rooms a list of such authors and 
parts of authors, furnished by the 
Professor, as cannot be read in the 
lecture-room : e. g. Cicero's Epistles 
to Atticus, his Orations (selected,) 
and Treatise " de Republica ;" Sal- 
lust, Terence, Plautus : ^schylus, 
Virgil, Sophocles, Euripides, Aristo- 
phanes, Demosthenes, iEschines, Thu- 
cydides, &c. 

As an essential part of the course, 
the students of each class are required 
to furnish regularly, once a week, a 
written exercise ; which consists in 
the conversion of Latin or Greek into 
English, and of English into Latin or 
Greek. The exercises are examined 
by the Professor, and the errors 
marked : thus corrected, they are re- 
turned to the students, and the correc- 
tions stated and explained in the pre- 
sence of the class. For these exer- 
cises, the classic authors are used as 
the text. The black-board is contin- 
ually iised for the prupose of assisting 
the student, by the aid of the eye, in 
comprehending and retaining the il- 
lustrations given. 

Modern Languages. Professor 
ZJ/fP^/cry/irt/wt.— The languages taught, 
in this school, are the French, Span- 
ish, Italian, German, and Anglo Sax- 
on ; and if desired, will also be taught, 
the Danish, Swedish, Hollandish, and 
Portuguese Languages, In each of 
them, there are two classes, the senior 
and the junior, together with a third 
class for those who wish to qualify 
themselves for degrees in this school, 



120 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



as it is required that Iavo degrees be' 
obtained in modern languages before 
that of A. M. will be conferred: Be- 
sides the oral translations in the lec- 
ture room, the students arc required 
to write, as regular exercises out of 
the lecture rooms, translations from 
the foreign language irito English, 
«nd vice versa. Lectures on the 
Literature of each isf the nations 
Avhose languages are taught, are de- 
livered twice a week, by the Profes- 
sor ; as also lectures on Modern His- 
tory, and the political relations of the 
different civilized nations of the pre- 
•sent day. The text-books used are 
the principal classics dn each lan- 
guage. 

Mathematics. Professor Bon- 
nycastle. — In this school there are 
■commonly 5 classes. Of these, the 
first junior begins with Arithmetic: 
fbut as the student is required to have 
some knowledge of this subject when 
he enters the tlniversity, the lectures 
of the Professor are limited to the 
theory, shewing the methed of nam- 
ing numbers, the different scales of 
flotation, and the derivation of the 
several rules of Aritlimetic from the 
primary notion of addition; the addi- 
tion namely, of sensible objects one 
hy one. The ideas thus acquired are 
appealed to at every subsequent step, 
and much pains are taken to exhibit 
■yhe gradual developement from these 
"elementary truths, of the extensive 
science of mathematical analysis. 
Lacroix's Arithmetic is the text-l)ook. 

In Algebra, the first problems are 
analyzed with, and without, the use 
of letters, to make the student sensible 
of the advantages of these signs. In 
teaching the rules for adding, sub- 
tracting, «fcc.,tliey are compared Avith 
the correspondent rules in Arithmetic, 
and the agreement or diversity is no- 
ticed and explained. The text-book 
is Lacroix's Algebra. 

In Geometry, the first elements are 
taught, and illustrated by the use of 
anodels. 



The second junior class cohtimie 
to read Lacroix's Algebra, and Bon- 
nycastle's Inductive Geometry. In 
the latter, they successively acquire, 
the theorems of Synthetic Geometry — 
the theory and practice ot Plane and 
Spherical Trigonometrj^ with the ap- 
plication of the latter to Nautical As- 
tronomy — the theory of Projection — 
and the theory of Curved lines and 
Surfaces. Their subsequent studies 
usually embrace a portion of the Dif- 
ferential Calculus. 

The senior classes contimxe the 
Differential Calculus in lessons taken 
from Young and from Bonnycastle's 
CTeometry, concluding the course of 
pure Mathematics with the Integral 
Calculus, the theory of which is taken 
from Young, and the examples, from 
Peacock. 

There is, moreover, a class of Mix- 
ed Mathematics, for such of the more 
advanced students as choose to pursue 
it; which consists of parts of Ventu- 
roli's Mechanics, the first book of 
Laplace's Mecanique Celeste, and of 
the applications of the principles there 
given to various problems. 

And, lastly, there is attached to this 
school a class of Civil Engineering ^ 
wherein are taught the first principles 
of Descriptive Geometry — of the con- 
struction of draughts and plans — of 
surveying — and, lastly, of the con- 
struction of Roads, Canals, Bridges, 
and other public works. 

Natural Philosophy. Profes- 
sor Patterso7i. — The course of lec- 
tures in tliis school is divided into 
two parts, each of which is followed 
by a general written examination of 
the students. The first part treats of 
the properties of ponderable bodies, 
and includes Statics, Dynamics, Hy- 
drostatics, Hydrodynamics, Pneumat- 
ics, Crystalization, Molecular and 
Capillary Attraction, Strength and 
Stress of Materials, and Acoustics. 
The second part comprises Heat, in- 
cluding Meteorology and the Steam- 
engine, Electricity and Galvanism, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBExMARLE. 



121 



Magnetism and Electro Magnetism, 
Optics, Astronomy. 

Tlie text-books used are, Lardner 
and Kater's Mechanics, Lardner's 
Hydrostatics and Pneumatics, Brew- 
ster's Optics, the Treatises on Heat, 
Electricity, Galvanism, Magnetism, 
and Electro Magnetism, in the Library 
of Useful Knowledge, and Herschel's 
Astronomy. 

As the enactments require only an 
acquaintance with arithmetic in order 
lo enter this school, mathematical de- 
monstrations, though not avoided by 
the Professor, are not required of the 
students of the general class. But the 
candidates for graduation form a sep- 
arate class, and are taught the appli- 
cations of elementary mathematics, 
{Algebra, Geometry, and Trigonom- 
etry,) to Natural Philosophy. The 
application of the higher calculus be- 
longs to the school of Mathematics. 

The Apparatus provided for the 
school of Natural Philosophy is very 
extensive and complete, and thus ena- 
bles the Professor to illustrate every 
part of his course by experiments in 
the presence of his class. An Obser- 
vatory, Avith its appropriate astrono- 
mical instruments, is also attached to 
this school. 

Chemistry and Materia Medi- 
CA. Professor Emmet. — There are 
two classes in this school ; one of 
Chemistry, to which there are lec- 
tures given twice a week, and the 
other of Materia Medica and Phar- 
macy, to Avhich is given a lecture 
once a week throughout the session. 

In the Chemical lectures, all the 
important applications of the science 
to the mechanic arts, agriculture and 
domestic economy are noticed, and, 
when practicable, illustrated by ex- 
periment. In the lectures on earths 
and metals, the appropriate minerals 
are exhibited and noticed with refei'- 
ence to the sciences of Mineralogy 
and Geology. At the clo.se of the 
history of inorganic matter, the atomic 
theory and the laws of definite pro- 
16 



portions are fully explained and ex- 
emplified. The latter part of the 
course is occupied with the chemistry 
of organic substances, and it compri- 
ses the history, analysis and proper- 
ties of each substance ; to which are 
added general views of the connexion 
between Chemistry and the physiolo- 
gy of animals and vegetables. 

In the lectures on Materia Medica 
and Pharmacy, the subjects are treat- 
ed in the following order: — The ope- 
rations of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical 
preparations, the effect which the 
combining of different substances has 
on their medicinal properties, the dif- 
ferent classifications of the Materia 
Medica, and lastly, its several articles 
treated alphabetically. 

There is attached to this school, a 
very extensive apparatus and a labo- 
ratorj'-, in Avhich the students are oc- 
casionally permitted to see the opera- 
lions, and to perform experiments. A 
free use is made of the black-board in 
these as in almost all the other classes 
in the Universit}^ 

Medicine. Professor Magill. — 
The subjects taught in this school are 
Physiology, Pathology, Therapeu- 
tics, Ob.stetrics and Medical Jurispru- 
dence. The last forms a distinct 
class, and comprehends other stu- 
dents in addition to those of Medicine. 
A full course of lectures is delivered 
on each of the above branches. Dun- 
glison's Human Physiology is the 
text-book on that subject ; in Patholo- 
gy and the practice of Medicine, 
Eberle's Practice of Medicine is re- 
commended ; in Obstetrics, Burns, or 
Dewees, or Gooch ; and in Medical 
Jurisprudence, Beck or Ryan. 

Anatomy and Surgery. Pro- 
fessor Warner. — In Anatomy, the 
lectures are delivered from Subjects, 
with which the school is regularly 
supplied. The text-book is Horner's 
Special Anatomy. In Surgery, the 
text-book is Cooper's First Lines. 
This and the two preceding schools 
constitute the Medical Department of 



122 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



the University; and the candidates for 
the degree of "Doctor of Medicine," 
must pass examination in them all. 
An extensive Museum is attached to 
this department. It possesses one 
advantage, "at least, over the other 
Medical Schools in the United States 
in having a session of more than ten 
months, instead of one of ahout four. 

A full course of lectures in the 
Medical Department of this Univer- 
sity, is considered as equivalent to a 
full course in both the Philadelphia 
and Baltimore Schools ; so that a stu- 
dent with a certificate from this Uni- 
versity of having attended a full course 
of lectures here, is entitled to stand 
for graduation at either of the above 
named schools, after having attended 
all the lectures there delivered for one 
session only. 

Moral Philosophy. Professor 
Tucker. — There are two classes in 
this school. The Junior Class stu- 
dies Rhetoric, Belles-Lettres and 
Logic, the first half of the session, 
and Belles-Lettres and Ethics, the last 
half. 

The Senior, studies Mental Philos- 
ophy, the first part of the session, and 
Political Economy the last. The ex- 
aminations are on the Professor's lec- 
tures, Brown's Philosophy, Say's Po- 
litical Economy, and Adam Smith. 

In the Junior Class, the examina- 
tions are on the Professor's Lectures, 
Blair's Lectures, Campbell's Rhe- 
toric, Stewart's Active and Moral 
Powers. 

There are also in this school, lec- 
tures on logic and general grammar. 

Law. Professor Dads. — In this 
school are taught the Law of Nature 
and Nations, the Science of Govern- 
ment, Constitutional Law, the Com 
mon and Statute Law, Equity, and 
Maritime and Commercial Law. 

This school is divided into two 
classes. The text-books studied by 
the junior class, are Vattel's Law of 
Na ture and of Nations, the Federal- 
ist, the Virginia Report of '99, and 



Blackstone's Commentaries. Those 
studied by the senior, are Coke upon 
Littleton, (Thomas's edition,) Stephen 
on Pleading, Starkie on Evidence, 
(the first vol.) Toller on Executors, 
Chitty on Contracts, Bayley on Bills, 
Fonblanque's Equity, and Mitford's 
Pleadings, to which it is proposed to 
add a treatise on Commercial and 
Maritime LaAv. 

On these books, prelections are de- 
livered by the Professor, in which it 
is his object to supply what is defi- 
cient and explain what is obscure in 
the text, to refer in connection with it 
to the leading cases and authorities, 
American and English, illustrative of 
the topic vmder consideration, and 
generally, to ofTer such comments as 
he deems necessary to its thorough 
understanding. In these prelections, 
the statute law of Virginia and the 
United States, and its effects on the 
pre-existing law are particularly ex- 
plained. Each prelection is preceded 
by an examination on the last togeth- 
er with its text. 

On government, and on various to- 
pics of National, Constitutional and 
Municipal Law, not discussed in the 
text-books, lectures are delivered; on 
which also, the class are examined. 

Students not wishing to study Mu- 
nicipal Law, can enter for that por- 
tion only of the junior course, which 
embraces National LaAV, Government 
and Constitutional Law ; which por- 
tion, those wishing to study Muni- 
cipal Law only, can if they choose 
omit. 

The students of this school have 
instituted a LaAV Society, at the meet- 
ings of which the Professor presides. 
In it, questions connected Avith the 
studies of the school are discussed, 
fictitious cases litigated in the form of 
regular pleadings, and the issues pro- 
duced decided in the appropriate mode, 
and the members exercised in conA-ey- 
ancing by having to prepare and sub- 
mit to the Society the necessary deeds 
to effectuate supposed agreements, &c. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



123 



Religious exercises are performed 
at ihe University every Sunday, bv a 
Minister of the Gospel, residing there, 
whose services are rendered on the 
private invation of the Professors, Of- 
cers and Students. 

Examinations. — There are two 
public examinations of all the stu- 
dents, each session, the one at such 
convenient time about the middle of 
the session as the Faculty shall ap- 
point, the other at the close of the ses- 
sion. 

These are thus conducted. The 
Professor of the School prepares, in 
writing, a series of questions to be 
proposed to his class, and affixes to 
them numerical values, according to 
his estimate of their relative difficulty. 
On the assembling of the class for ex- 
amination, these question are for the 
first time presented to them ; and they 
are required to answer them in writ- 
ing, in a prescribed time, without 
communication with one another or 
with other persons, and without any 
reference to books. Their answers 
are suhsequently carefully examined 
and compared, and a value attached 
to each, not exceeding that of the cor- 
responding question. In the schools 
of languages, subjects may also be se- 
lected for oral examination, and the 
values of these exercises are marked 
at the time. 

The students are then arranged in- 
to four divisions, according to the 
merit of their examinations, as deter- 
mined by the following method. The 
numerical values attached to all the 
questions are added together, and also 
the values ot the ansioers given by 
each student. If this last number 
amounts to three-fourths of the first, 
the student is ranked in the first di- 
vision ; if it be less than three-fourths 
and as much as one-half, in the se- 
cond; if less than one-half and as 
much as a fourth, in the third; if less 
than a fourth, in the fourth division. 
The e.xaminations are conducted and 
the results acertained hy a committee. 



consisting of the professor of the 
school and two other professors. 

The standing of each student at the 
examinations is communicated to his 
parent or guardian : and the names of 
those who are in the first divisions 
are announced on the public day, at 
the close of the session, and published 
in one or more of the newspapers of 
the state. 

Degrees. — Three honarary dis- 
tinctions are conferred in this Institu- 
tion ; a Certificate of Proficiency — 
that of Graduate in any School — and 
that oi Master of Arts of the Univer- 
sity of Virginia. 

The first, the Faculty may confer 
on any student who shall, on exami- 
nation, give satisfactory evidence of a 
competent acquaintance with any of 
those particular branches which, ac- 
cording to the regulations, may be 
separately attended in a school. The 
second, they are authorized to confer 
on any student who shall, on exami- 
nation, give satisfactory evidence of 
his proficiency in the general studies 
of any of the schools. And the third, 
is obtained by graduation, in the 
schools if Antient Languages, Mod- 
ern Languages, Mathemelics, Natu- 
ral Philosophy, Chemistry, and Mo- 
ral Philosophy. But in all cases, to 
obtain a diploma, or certificate of pro- 
ficiency, the candidate must give the 
Faculty satisfactory proof of his abili- 
ty to write the English language cor- 
rectly. 

No particular period of study i.s 
prescribed for the acquisition of these 
honors. The student obtains them 
whenever he can undergo the rigid 
examinations to which the candidates 
for them are subjected. 

The title of Doctor of Medicine is 
conferred on the graduate in the 
Medical Department. 

On the last day of the session, the 
Visitors, Faculty, Officers and Stu- 
dents, assemble in the Rotunda, and 
the public are invited to attend. On 
this occasion, the certificates and di- 



124 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



$100 



plomas arc awarded to the successful 
candidates, the results of the exami- 
nations are announced, and orations 
are delivered, and essays read by Stu- 
dents appointed for that purpose. 

Expenses, &c. — The expenses 
for the session of upwards of 10 
months, commencing the 1st of Sep- 
tember, and ending the 4th of July 
following, are as follows : — 
Board, including bed and other 
room furniture, washing and 
attendance, - . - - - 
Fuel and candles, to be fur- 
nished by the Proctor, at 
cost, and 5 per cent commis- 
sion, estimated, if only one 
student in the dormitory, at 
$30, — if two students in the 

dormitory at 

Rent of an entire dormitory 
$16 ; for half, if occupied by 
two students. 
Use of the library and public 

rooms, 

Fees — if one professor be at- 
tended $.50 ; if two, each 
$30: if more than two, each 
$25 — say, - 



15 



15 



Total, exclusive of books and 
stationary, clothing and 
pocket money, - - - - $213 
In addition " to the regular fee, 
^20 is paid by students who at- 
tend the Senior Class in the school of 
Law. 

Boarding-houses are provided with 
in the precincts, for the accommoda^ 
tion of students; and no student is per 
mitted to board or lodge out of the 
precincts, unless in the family of his 
parent or guardian, or of some par- 
ticular friend, approved by the Facul- 
ty. Except, that students above tlie 
age of 20 years, may reside out of the 

Erecincts, in such private boarding- 
ouses as the Faculty may approve. 
Every student re,sidenl within the 
precincts, is rcqiiired, on matriculo 



other available funds, wliich lie shall 
have in hi.s possession, or under his 
control, in any manner intended to 
defray his expenses while at the Uni- 
versity, or on his return from theiice 
to his residence. Nor shall he ma- 
triculate, till he shall have deposited a 
sum at least sufficient, after deducting 
the Patron's commission, two per 
cent, to pay for the use of his dormi- 
tory and the public rooms, to pay the 
fees of the Professors whom he may 
design to attend, to pay 3 months' 
board to his hotel-keeper, to purchase 
the text-books and stationary which 
he may want at the commencement, 
and $20 on account of fuel and can- 
dles, and $10 to cover contingent 
charges and assessments against him 
for injuries to the buildings, &c., 
which two last mentioned sums are 
credited in the final settlement of his 
accounts. In like manner, he shall 
deposit Avith the Patron all the funds 
which he shall receive Avhile a stu- 
dent of the University, for the pur- 
poses aforesaid. At the end of the 
first three months of the session, he 
shall deposit enough to pay his board 
and other expenses for the next three 
months; and at the expiration of the 
second period of three months, he 
shall deposit cnoiigh to pay his board 
and other expenses for the residue of 
the session. 

Students resident out of the Uni- 
versity, are required, on matriculating, 
to deposit with the Patron funds suf- 
ficient, after deducting the Patron's 
commission, to pay the fees of the 
Professors whom they propose to at- 
tend, the sum charged for the use of 
the public rooms, and $10 to cover 
contingent charges. 

The expenses of the students resi- 
dent in the University, are limited as 
follows: — for board, the use ot dormi- 
tory and public rooms, and tuition 
fees, the sums before stated ; for cloth- 
ing during the session, a smn not ex- 
ceeding $100; for pocket-money du- 



ting, to deposit with the Patron, all 

the money, checks, bills, drafLs, and ring the session, not exceeding $40; 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



125 



for books or stationery, whatever thelBiit the privilege so allowed may be 
parent or guardian may think fit to withdraAvn by the Faculty, at any 
allow; for medicine and medical at-;time, when in their opinion it has 
tendance whatever may be necessary.! been used to the evil example of the 
These limits are in no case to be ex- students, and otherwise to the injury 

of the Institution. 



ceeded, unless under special circum- 
stances, the Faculty shall allow it. 
Resident students are forbidden to 
contract any debts Avhatsoever ; but 
for every thing purchased, they are 
forthwith to pay, or to draw upon a 
fund in the hands of the Patron ap- 
plicable thereto. 

Students, wherever resident, are re- 
quired to wear the uniform prescribed 
by the enactments ; consisting of cloth 
of a dark grey mixture, at a price not 
exceeding $G a yard. 

The Faculty, at their discretion, 
may allow any man, of undoubtedi 

moral character, above the age of 23 Faculty to give instruction in those 
years, to attend lectures in any of the accomplishments to such students, as 
Schools of the University, and to re- wish to acquire them, 
side out of the precincts, exempt fromj A military corps has been formed 
the rules and regulations prescribed by the students, and an instructor ap- 
for the government of students : ex- pointed, for the purpose of learning 
cept only, that he shall pay the usualj military tactics. One afternoon in 
Professors' fees, and the usual com-lthe week is devoted to these exer- 
pensation for the use of the public, cises ; but it is at the option of the 
rooms, and shall observe all those'student whether he Avill engage in 
laws of the Institution which enjoin them, 
respectful and orderly deportment:! 



At the end of every month, a cir- 
cular is addressed by the Chairman 
of the Faculty to the parent or guar- 
dian of each student, in which are 
stated his absences from the lectures 
he was bound to attend, and other ir- 
regularities of which he may have 
been guilty, that month ; together 
with such information as to the stu- 
dent's progress .and conduct as it may 
be deemed proper to communicate. 

AccoMPLisHMENTs.-There are in 
the University, teachers of Music, Fen- 
cing and Dancing, authorized by the 



126 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 



TABLE, cx/ilbitbii^- the state, of the several Schools of the Univcrslti/, from 

its commencement. 



1 1 ^ f/i 










T3 c3 






~ — 




r^ — :^ — 1 


o . 
<u o 

§1 




I.I 

li 


w OJ 

.-1 


g be 

O fcX3 


CO- 

a 


rt o 
PL, 


a o 


2G 


o 

o 

— c 


ca >., 

S br. 

2 ^ 


Ph 

15 




o c 
314 


1st. 


18-25 


123 


57 


73 


73 


35 


35 


2d. 


182G 


177 


107 


90 


98 


43 


45 


IG 






28 


26 


453 


3d. 


1827 


128 


53 


59 


62 


24 


38 


l(i 


4 




12 


18 


286 


4th. 


1827-8 


131 


48 


46 


63 


30 


43 


23 


2 


23 


25 


24 


327 


5th. 


1828-9 


120 


39 


26 


45 


33 


38 


22 


11 


27 


23 


27 


291 


6th. 


1829-30 


133 


52 


39 


60 


47 


42 


29 


3 


34 


16 


23 


345 


7th. 


1830-31 


133 


57 


46 


78 


57 


37 


25 


4 


23 


38 


17 


382 


8th. 


1831-32 


140 


48 


24 


64 


58 


60 


41 


15 


41 


57 


29 


437 


9th. 


1832-33 


158 


60 


23 


78 


82 


70 


38 


10 


36 


41 


37 


476 


lOtli. 


1833-34 


201 


75 


64 


109 


73 


89 


41 

277 


49 


44 

228i 


6- 
3-23 


48 
249 


610 
3921 I 




Totals. 1444 


598 


490j 


730 


482 


497 



N. B. — The number in the columns of Medical Jurisprudence are those 
in addition to the Medical School. 



Other information with regard to 
the University will be found in the 
General Description of Virginia. 

Warren, P. V. situated on the left 
bank of James river, at the mouth of 
Ballinger's creek, in the southern an- 
gle of Albemarle, 2.5 miles S. S. W. 
of Charlottesville, 89 miles N. W. by 
W. of Richmond, and 148 from W. 
C. — This village was in a flourish- 
ing condition till the year 1823, when 
it began to decline, and the value of 
property in it has since fallen very 
much; it was at that time made a de- 
pot by the farmers for their staples, 
wheat, flour, tobacco, &c. — but they 
have since found it more advantageous 
to transport their produce to Rich- 
mond, through Scottsville. This vil- 
lage is beautifully situated, and the 



fertility of the surrounding soil, and 
grandeur of the landscape are objects 
of univ^ersal admiration : the salubrity 
of this neighborhood is unsurpassed 
in the U. States — It contains several 
dwelling houses — one free church — 
one common school — two mercantile 
stores — two taverns — and one coop- 
er's-shop — Population 50; of whom 
two are physicians. 

Yancey's Mills, P. O. on the 
Rivanna and Rockfish Gap turnpike 
between Charlottesville and Staunton, 
16 miles from the former, and 24 from 
the latter— 138 ms. S. W. by W. from 
W. C. and 97 from R. — It contains a 
tavern, one mercantile store and a 
blacksmith-shop. Libert?/ meeting- 
house, in the neighborhood, is free for 
all denominations. 



AMELIA. 

Amelia was created by the Legislature in 1734, and formed out of part 
of Prince George, It is bounded N. W. by Cumberland, or the Appomat- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— AMELIA. 



127 



tox; N.bylhe Appomattox or Powhatan county; N. E. by the Appomattox, 
or Chesterfield; S. E. by Namozine creek, or Dinwiddle; S. byNottoway; 
and W. by Prince Edward: — Length from S. E. to N. W. 30 miles, mean 
width 10 — area 300 square miles. The surface is greatly diversified, the 
soil on the hills, poor, and generally much worn, on the bottoms very fertile. 
It is drained by various creeks which flow to the N. E. into the Appomat- 
tox— Populationin 1820—11,106; in 1830, free whites 3,293,— slaves, 7,518, 
— free blacks, 2,200— total, 11,031. — It belongs to the second judicial cir- 
cuit, and first district. Taxes paid 1832-3, $3,063 02— in 1833-4, on lots 
$38 74— land $1989 25— on 3109 slaves, $777 25—2345 hor.ses, $140 
76— 8 studs, $104 00—21 coaches, $52 50— 6 carryalls, $6 00—11 gigs, 
$3 355 — Total, $3116 85. Amount expended in the education of poor 
children in 1832, $243 74,— in 1833, $337 62. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



AMELIA C. H., P. O. 169 miles 
from W. and 47 from R. — in N. 
Lat. 37° 13' and long. 10° 11' W. of 
Washington: on the main Danville 
road leading to Richmond. It con- 
tains besides the county buildings 
several dwelling houses, one tavern, 
& several mechanics. Population 40. 

County Courts are held on the 
fourth Thursday in every month; — 
quarterly in March, May, August, 
and November. Judge May holds 
his Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery on the 17 th of April 
and September. 

Deatoxville or Thompson'' s ta- 
vern, P. O. 52 ms. S. W. of R. and 
174 from W. — on the Geneto road; 
and at the intersection of the roads 
leading from Petersburg to Farmville, 
— and from Richmond to Prince Ed- 
ward, — 54 miles W. of Petersburg, 
162 of Farmville, 23 N. E. of Prince 
Edward C. H. and 16 E. of Raine's 
tavern, on the road leading from Pe- 
tersburg to Lynchburg: A road from 
Fredericksburg, also comes in here 
from the N. W. 

Dennes' p. O. 55 ms. S. W. of R. 
and 177 from W. 

Elk Hill P. O. 64 ms. S. W. of 
R. and 156 from W. 

Finney Mills P. O. 52 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 176 from W. 30 ms. 
N. of W. from Petersburg, 8 S. E. of 
Amelia C. H. 7 E. of Dennisville, 4 



N. of the line of Nottoway county, 
and 5 W. of Bevil's bridge, across 
the Appomattox — Situated on Beaver 
pond creek, a small but constant stream; 
and one mile N. of Deep creek, — a 
stream large enough to admit batteaux 
navigation for 15 miles, from its junc- 
tion with the Appomattox; the flour 
from Finney mills is carried in wa- 
gons to this stream, thence to the Ap- 
pomattox, thence to Petersburg. — The 
mills take their name from their for- 
mer proprietor; they turn two pair of 
Corn, and the same number of Burr 
stones ; there is a cotton-gin in another 
house; and a methodist meeting house 
called the Tabernacle at the spot. 
The mill is capable of grinding from 
20 to 25000 bushels of wheat in the 
ordinary grinding season. 

Hallsville, p. O. 33 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 155 from W. 

Jetersville p. O. 54 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 176 from W. 

LoMBARDY P. O. 42 ms. S. W. of 
R. and 164 from W. 

Manboro' p. O. 48 ms. N. W. of 
R. and 170 from W. — situated at the 
intersection of the road leading from 
Richmond to North Carolina, and 
from Petersburg to the west. 

Office Tavern P. O. in the wes- 
tern part of the county, 43 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 165 from W. — on 
the main stage road leading from 
Farmville to Petersburg-, and 4 ms. 



128 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— AMHERST 



N. W. of Amelia C. H.~rhe Clerk' s\ 
Office of the superior and county\ 
courts is located in this place; — there 
is also an extensive manufactory ofj 
wheat machines, ploughs, &c. — and 
in the neighborhood, one Presbyte- 
rian and one Methodist house of wor- 
ship. The population amounts to 50 
persons. 

PaInsville p. V. in the western 
part of the countj- — 4G ms. S. W. by 
W.of R., 168 from W., 12 from Ame- 
lia C. H., 18 from Genito, and 15 from 
Jamestown. Painsville contains 7 
dwelling houses, — one tavern, — one 
mercantile store, one wheelwright, — 
one smiths-shop," — one cabinet maker, 
— -and one free meeting house. A 
Baptist church of about 40 white 
members was established in 1832 near 
the village. There is also a flourish- 
. ing Methodist church about three 
miles from the village, and a Presby- 
terian church about five ms. — There 
are Union Sabbath Schools at these 
churches, and a Female Benevolent 
Society attached to the Baptist church, 
which is auxiliary to the B, Educa- 



tion Society. — This church also con- 
stitutes an Auxiliary Bible Society, 
and contributes also to the Baptist As- 
sociation, and the B. Triennial Con- 
vention of the U. S. The Presbyte- 
rian church has a Tract Society. A 
Temperance Society holds its mcet- 
mgs in Painsville. The country a- 
round is thickly settled, and within 
three miles are two mercantile stores 
and a cotton factory — One attorney and 
three physicians reside in Painsville, 
its Avhole population is bl, of whom 
32 are whites. 

Wigwam, the residence of the late 
distinguished William B. Giles, 
about 62 ms. S. W. of R. and 156 
from W. — about three miles from the 
Appomattox. The buildings are of 
wood, but prettily and neatly built, 
and convenient, — the situation is itself 
pleasant and rttired, but docs not com- 
mand a view of much of the sur- 
rounding country — during Mr. Giles' 
life he had a large classical school at 
his residence, provided with excellent 
teachers, 



AMHERST. 

Amherst Avas ci'ealcd by the Legislature in 1761, from a part of Albe- 
ttiarle. It is bounded S. W. by Bedford county, or James river; S. by 
James river or Campbell county; S. E. by James river, or Campbell and 
Buckingham counties; E. and S. E. by Tye river, or Nelson county; and 
N. E. by Blue Ridge or Rockbridge county. This county is nearly a pa- 
i-allelogram, 22 by 19 ms; area 418 sq. ms. — It is enclosed on two sides, the 
S. W. and S. E. "by the James river, and entirely drained by the tributaries 
of that stream. The county generally slopes to the South, its elevation 
above the Ocean is from 500 to 800 feet; — The soil is naturally fertile, and 
of the same dark', rich red, which is found so susceptible of improvement 
in Albemarle, &c. — but the system of Agriculture is bad; and when the 
land is exhausted it is generally turned out; and the deep red gulleys washed 
by the rain fill the traveller with feelings of the most gloomy desolation; 
but it is hoped that the James river improvement by rendering transporta- 
tion cheaper will induce the farmers to cultivate in Avheat, the lands Avhich 
are now turned out, when too poor for tobacco, and change the appearance 
of the soil. — The .scenery of Amherst is beautifully variegated Avith 
mountain, hill, and river. This county belongs to the tAvelfth judicial 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 



129 



circuit, and sixth district. Population in 1820, 10,483, — in 1830, 12,071. — 
Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2,063 62,— in 1833-4, $3,116 85. 

Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $273 08 — in 1833, 
$259 06. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



AMHERST C. H., P. V. situated 
on the stage road leading from Char- 
lottesville to Lynchburg, 15 ms. from 
the latter, 136 ms. W. from Richmond, 
and 180 from Washington, in N. lat. 
37° 29', long. 2° 12' W. of W. C. 
It contains besides the county build- 
ings, 14 dwelling houses, 1 common 
school, 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 
I tanyard, and several blacksmith- 
shops. — Two attorneys and three re- 
gular physicians reside in this village. 
Population 130. 

County Courts are held on the ord 
Monday in every month; — Qiharterly 
in March, June, August, and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Thompson holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the Ia-^ of April and 
September. 

Buffalo Springs P. O. 147 ms. 
W. of R. and 190 from W.— These 
waters are chalybeate, and attract a 
good deal of company in summer. 

Knightsville p. O. 131 ms. from 
R. and 185 from W. 

New Glasgoav P. V. 132 ms. W. 
of R. and 175 S. W. of W.— in the 
N. W. part of the county on an ele- 
vated place, 20 ms. N. N. E.of Lynch- 



'burg. — It contains 21 dwelling houses 
one free house of worship, 1 academy 
1 hotel, 4 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard 
1 Sadler, 1 cabinet maker, 1 wheel 
Wright, and 1 smith-shop. New Glas 
gow is pleasantly situated in a very 
healthy and picturesque region; — the 
soil around was originally good and 
is susceptible of easy and high im- 
provement. 

Pedlar Mills P. O. 135 ms. W. 
of R. and 198 S, W. of W.— in S. 
W. part of the county, at the junction 
of Horsley's creek and Pedlar river, 
on the north side of that river, and 4^ 
ms. from its junction with the James: 
— It contains a store, a merchant mill, 
a tavern, a tailor-shop, a tanyard, and 
a blacksmith-shop. It has 14 houses 
and a population of 56 persons; one 
of whom is a physician. Pedlar 
river might easily be made navigable 
to the mills. 

Prvors Vale P. O. 141 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 191 from W. 

Rose Mills P. O. 127 ms. from 
R. and 170 S. W. of W. 

Sandridge's P, O. 142 ms. from 
R. and 185 S. W. of W. 

Waugh's Ferry P. O. 142 ms, 
from R. and 205 S. W. of W. 



BEDFORD. 

Bedford Avas created by the Legislature in 1753, out of a part of Lu- 
nenburg county. It is bounded E. and S. E. by Campbell county, — S. and 
S. W. by Staunton river, branch of Roanoke, separating it from Pittsylva- 
nia on the S. and Franklin S. W. — W. and N. W. by the Blue Ridge, 
which separates it from Botetourt; and N. E. by James river, which sepa- 
rates it from Amherst. — Length between the James and Staunton 30 miles, 
mean breadth 22,— and area 660 sq. ms.— lat. from 37° to 37° 32' N. and 
long, from 2° 10' to 2° 50' W. of W, C— This county for the m.ost part 
inclines to the S. E. — The inclination terminating in the Peaks oi Otter in 
17 



130 EASTERN AHRGINIA— BEDFORD. 

the N. W. part of the county; — from these Peaks elevated 4,260 feet above. 
the Uc.^an, li^dford slopes towards her two luain boundary streams, the 
J.i;Ti-s aad Roanoke, and has also lesser inclinations towards her two smal- 
Uv streams, Goose cree.'c and Otter river. — T/ic soil is generally well adapted 
to farininj, e.-jual perhaps to any in Virginia, and had it never been doomed 
to thj curse of eACcSsive tobacco culture, would not have been surpassed by 
aiy portion of the state in improvement. — Tobacco has been the principle 
stapU; but many are now turnmg their attention to the improvement of their 
la.id by clover and plaster, and hnd them astonishingly successful, and the 
soil capable of high and rapid improvement. — There is a stratum of red 
clay waich is almost impervious to water, and gives durability to an im- 
proved soil; — some of tlie lands on the water-courses are destitute of this 
qa.ility, and their value is diminished by the defect. The face of the country 
is generally uneven and in many places broken, especially the south part, 
fro.n the great western road. I'he principal streams flowing through the 
coantv are Otter and Goose creek, the former rises in the mountains about 
the si'des and base of the Peaks of Otter; the head of the south fork of the 
latter rises between the celebrated Peaks, on the road passing thi-ough Jen- 
ning'.. Gap, and half way from the base to the summit; it is a large spring 
of deli'^'htiul water and very powerful at its source, and is so increased by 
ether springs ere it reaches the base of the mountain, that it affords beauti- 
ful sites for machinery: after uniting with the north fork it forms a consid- 
erable stream, running nearly a south course until it unites Avith Goose 
creek, which rises in the S. W. side of the Peaks, and runs first south and 
then east. It affords many sites for water-works, and many mills are 
erected on it. 

The celebrated Peaks of Otter are situated on the south of the road 
which passes through Jenning's Gap; the county line passes over the nor- 
thern or Flat Top Peak; this Peak Avas estimated by 3Ir. Jefferson to be 
fourteen or fifteen feet highest, but it is the southern one which has attracted 
most attention, — its pinnacle being formed of rock piled on rock for forty 
feet. From this the traveller gazes with delight upon the country below, 
studded with farms, diminished by the distance to the appearance of gar- 
dens, and mountain rising above mountain in endless "perspective, whilst 
immediately beneath his feet the clouds may be pouring their genial shoAvers 
upon the foot of the mountain. John Randolph of Roaiiokt, is said to haA'e 
written some pious lines, upon AA^tnessing this majestic and elcA-ating scene. 
The spot has been visited also by the eloquent Volney. — There are tAvo 
other peaks in the same range of mountains, Avhich have not been mentioned 
by travellers or geographers, they are distant five and seA'en miles from the 
two former, and are probably of equal height; the old hunters say, that the 
most northern one, Avhich is called the Ajjple Orchard, is the highest of 
all; its name is derived from the appearance of the trees on its top, Avhich 
resembles an old deserted orchard. The top affords a IcA^el of four or five 
acres of A'ery rich soil, and has springs upon it. The other of these ne- 
glected Peaks is called the Onion; it has nothing remarkable about it, except 
its height. The soil in the lofty elevations of these mountains is astonish- 
ingly fertile. 

Chalybeate Waters, discovered in the south part of the county, haA-e been 
found to be beneficial in diseases of the skin and debility, but no care being 
taken of them, they are little knoAvn or frequented. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 



131 



There is a cave of some extent on the head waters of Gooss creek, of 
which little is known. 

The timber of Bedford is generally oak, — white, black, red, Spanish, and 
bo.x: oak, — there is also much good jyine in some sections. — Few hog::, and 
little cattle is raised for market ; there are some fine horsts raised, and mere 
attention has been lately attracted to this subject. 

There are about thirtj* good manufacturing mills in the county, end as 
many saio mills. About six miles of the James river canal, which passes 
through the Blue Ridge, lie in this county. — This county belon^rs to the 
eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Population 1820, 1 0,305 — in 
1830, 20,246 — Taxes paid in 1833, $4,321 41— in 1834, on lots, $76 09— 
land, $2,538 50— slaves, (No. 4545,) $1136 25— horses, (No. 4670,) $280 
20— studs, (No. 33,) $496 00— coaches, (No. 31,) $68 40— carryalls, (No. 
7,) $7 00— gigs, (No. 20,) $11 2.5— Total $4,613 19. Amount expended 
in 1833 for education of poor children, $861 65. 



15 
25 

450 

330 

181S2 

55 

4cts. 

$2 39 

8787 84 



School Fund from BOik Sept. 1833, to 1st Oct. 1834. 
Number of school commissioners, ... 

" common schools attended by poor children, - 

" poor children in the county, - 

" " " sent to school, - 

Aggregate No. of days' attendance of poor children at school, 
Av^erage " " " each poor child " 

Rate of tuition per diem, .... 

Average paid for each poor child, including all expenses, 
Expended in 1833, for all expenses, . . . . 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, £cc. 



Chambless' Store, P. O. 159 ms. 
from R. and 237 from \V. 

Davis' Mill, P. O. 155 ms. S. W. 
by W. from W. 

Davis' Store, P. O. 149 ms. from 
R. and 217 from W. 

Dickinson's Store, P.O. 152ms. 
W. of R. and 230 from W. 

Hendricks Store, P. O. 161 ms. 
from R. and 239 S. of W. 

LIBERTY, P. V. and seat of 
justice, is situated on a branch of Ot- 
ter river, 26 ms. S. W. from Lynch- 
burg, 145 ms. S. W. by W. from R. 
and 223 from W.— lat. 37° 17' N.— 
long. 20° 29' W. of W. C— The 
Lynchburg and Salem turnpike runs 
through the town, which contains be- 
sides the county buildings, 70 houses: 
— 2 Baptist, and 1 free church, — 1 \ 
masonic hall, — 2 taverns, — 5 mercan- 
tile stores, — 1 tobacco manufactorv, — 



2 tanyards, — 3 house-carpenters, — 1 
wheelwright, — 3 tailors, — 2 black- 
smiths, — and 2 turners — The mail 
arrives and departs fifteen times in a 
week. — Liberty contains 9 attorneys, 
and 4 regular physicians; — whole 
population 350. 

Coanty Courts are held on the Afh 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August, and Novein- 
ber. 

Judge Daniel holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the tenth of May and October. 

Mersey's, P. O. 170 ms. W. of R, 
and 248 from W. — It contains 5 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 tavern, 2 manufactur- 
ing flour mills, 5 common grist mills, 
2 carding machines, and 3 sawmills. 
— The neighboring soil is good and 
produces well all the staples of tiia 
middle states. 



132 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BRUNSWICK. 



Otter Bridge, P. O. 17 ms. S. 

W. by W. of Lynchburg, 215 ms. S. 
W. of W. and l'37 from R. 

OTTER PEAKS, situated on the 
boundary line between Bedford and 
Botetourt, by the road 30 ms. from 
Lynchburg; — These summits are 
4,260 feet above the Atlantic, and are 
the highest Peaks of the Appalachian 
chain, except the White Top peaks 
of the Iron mountain, and some points 
in New Hampshire. — See a descrip- 
tion of these in the preliminary de- 
scription of this county. 

Saint Jaime.? Church, P. O. 139 
ms. from R. and 217 S. W. of W. _ 

Tiber, or Goose Creek, P. O. in 
the western part of the county is 10 
ms. W. of Liberty, 233 ms. from W. 
and 155 from R. — situated on the wa- 
ters of a beautiful stream called Goose 



creek, with a fine view of the mag- 
nificent Blue Ridge, aiid the towering 
Peaks of Otter. It contains 10 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 free house of worship, 
1 Benevolent Society, ©nd 1 manufac- 
turing flour mill, — the principal me- 
chanical pursuits are the blacksmiths, 
tanners, boot and shoe makers, wagon 
makers, and brick layers. The soil 
in the neighborhood is fertile, produc- 
ing wheat, corn, buckwheat, tobacco,' 
oats, hemp, and flax, in abvmdance.— - 
Grazing is also carried on by the far- 
mers in the neighborhood, and no soil 
can be better adapted to grass and clo- 
ver. — Tiber has 1 physician, and a 
population of 70 souls. 

Wharton's Mills, P. O. 154 ms. 
from R. and 227 S. W. of W. 

White Oak Grove, P. O. 149. 
ms. from R. and 227 from W. 



BRUNSWICK. 

Brunswick was created by the Legislature in 1720, from a portion of 
Surry and Isle of Wight. It is bounded N. W. and N. by Lunenburg, — 
W. by Mecklenburg, — N. E. by NottOAvay river, which separates it from, 
Dinwiddle, — E. by Greensville, — S. by Southampton go. of N. Carolina, 
and S. W. by Warren co. of the same state. It is nearly a square, of 26 
miles on each side; area 676 sq. miles: extending in lat, from 36° 32' N. 
to 36° 56' N., and in long, from 0° 39', to 1° 04' W. of W. C. The S. W. 
angle touches Roanoke, and a small section is drained S. into that stream ; 
but the body of the county is comprised in the vallies of Meherrin and Not- 
toway rivers, and declines to the east. — Population 1820 — 16,687 — in 1830 
— 15,767. — Brunswick belongs to the second judicial circuit, a,nd first dis- 
trict.— Tax paid in 1833, $3618 91— in 1834, $3751 56.— Amount ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, no report — in 1833, $417 65. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Diamond Grove, P. O. 86 ms. S. 
S. W. of R. and 179 from W.— on 
the Meherrin river and main stage 
road from Petersburg, Va.,to Charles- 
ton, S. C, 7 ms. S. oi Lauirenceville ; 
situated in a rich and enterprising 
neighborhood. 

Gholsonville, p. V. on the left 
bank of Meherrin river, 75 ms. S. S. 
W. of R. and 107 from W. — one mile 



S. of Lawrenceville and on the main 
road leading S. from Petersburg — it 
contains 5 dwelling houses, one Me- 
thodist house of Avorship, 1 coach 
manufactory, and a blacksmith-shop. 
— It has one physician, and a popula- 
tion of 60 persons. 

IJarrisville, p. O. 46 ms. from 
R. and 108 from W. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. 



133 



JoNESBORo', p. O. 92 ms. S. of R. 
and 194 from W. 

LAWRENCEVILLE, P. V. and 

county seat, 69 ms. W. of S. from 
Richmond, and 191 from Washing- 
ton— lat. 36° 48' N., and long. 0° 50' 
W. of W. C. — Lawrenceville is a 
beautiful and wealthy little upland 
village, on a branch of the Meherrin 
river, containing a handsome court- 
house, clerk's office, and jail, an ele- 
gant masonic hall, and an Episcopal 
church, 25 neat dwelling houses, 1 
common school, 1 temperance and 1 
missionary society, 4 mercantile stores, 

2 taverns, 2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 1 
boot and shoe factory, 2 tailors, and 

3 smith-shops. Population 350; of 
whom 4 are attorneys, and 1 a physi- 
cian. 

Courdy Courts are held on the 4.th 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, Blay, August, and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge May holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of LaAV and Chancery 
on the 26/A of April ?ixn[ September. 

Lewisville, P. V. 78 ms. S. S. 
W. from R. and 200 from W. — situat- 
ed on Gee's road, one mile N. W. of 
Gee's bridge over the Meherrin river, 
and near the dividing line of Lunen- 
burg, Brunswick, and Mecklenburg; 
28 miles from Randolph Macon Col- 
lege, and 9 from Laicrencevillc. — It 



contains 13 dwelling houses, 1 mer- 
cantile .store, 1 tailor, and 1 blackshith. 
Population 33. There are several 
Methodist houses of worship in the 
immediate neighborhood. The coun- 
try is healthy, and well settled with 
industrious and wealthy farmers; the 
land is strong and well watered, and 
produces all the staple articles of the 
state. 

Kennedy, P. O. 60 ms. S. S. W. 
of R. and 188 from W. 

Percivals, p. O. 67 ms. S. W, of 
R. and 186 from W. 

Sturgeonville, p. v. 60 ms. S. 
S. W. of R. and 182 from W.— This 
place takes its name from Sturgeon 
creek, which runs near it. — It is situ- 
ated in the N. E. part of the county, 
in a tolerably thickly settled neigh- 
borhood. The land once good, is 
now much worn out, but the inhabi- 
tants are ^Tfealthy and hospitable; 
wheat and tobacco are the staples. — 
There are in the neighborhood of the 
P. O., 1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyte- 
rian house of worship, 1 Academy, 
1 female school, 2 general stores, 1 
blacksmith, 2 boot aiid shoe makers,. 
1 tanyard, and a house of entertain- 
ment. 

White Plains, P. O. 94 ms. S. 
S. W. of R. and 205 from W.— situ- 
ated on the great southern road; 80 
ms. N. of Raleigh, N. C. 



BUCKINGHAM. 



Buckingham was created by the Legislature in 1761, and formed out 
of part of Albemarle county. — It is bounded on the N. E. — N. — N. W.— 
and W, by the James river, which separates it from Fluvanna, Albemarle, 
Nelson, and Amherst; S. W. by Campbell; S. by the Appomattox, which' 
separates it from Piince Edward; and E. by Cumberland. Length 34 
miles, mean breadth, 24 — area 816 sq. miles; — it extends in lat. from 37° 
13' to 37° 45' N. and in long, from 1° 12' to 1° 55' W. from W. C. 

The head waters of the Appomattox flow along the S. border of this 
county; but its general inclination is N. towards the James, Avhich forms 
about half of its entire outline. The only mountains in Buckingham are 
Willis' s mountain, a small range near its eastern bordei% and another in the 
S. W. part near James river, called Ferguson'' s mountain; the remainder of 



13i 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. 



the county is generally level. Willises river rises in the S. part ol the 
county — flows in an eastern direction, enters Cumberland, then turns to the 
N. E. and empties into the James, 40 miles above Richmond; it is naviga- 
ble 65 miles Irom its mouth, — a remarkable circumstance for a river of its 
length; — its channel rather resembles a canal than a river. Slate river 
rises in the S. part of this county, llows to the N. E. and empties into the 
James 3 miles above New Canton, and 63 above Richmond. — Buckingham 
is by no means Avealthy in proportion to its extent, — a large portion of it is 
barren and uninhabited; on the borders of the watercourses the soil is fer- 
tile, producing well all the staples, tobacco, wheat, corn, &c. — the interven- 
ing ridges are extremely sterile and desolate. — The county contains 7 manu- 
facturing flour mills, capable of grinding irom 200 to 250,000 bushels of 
wheat annually, 5 wool-carding establishments, 8 tanyards, and 40 grist 
mills. — Slate is found in abundance at the mouth of Slate river. — Iron-ore 
is found near New Canton. — Gold is found in many places, and one mine 
is said to be the richest in America. A Mi7ieral Spring has been disco- 
vered ten miles S. of New Canton, which is known as the Physic Spring, 
the waters of which have not been analyzed, but are thought by physicians 
acquainted with its qualities, to be useful in many diseases, especially those 
of a chronic nature. — Buckingham belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, 
and fourth district. Population 1820, 17,-582— in 1830, 18,351. Taxes in 
1832-3, $5053 2-5—1833-4, on lots, $67 06— land, $2937 55— on 5817 
slaves, $1454 25— 3781 horses, $226 86— 13 studs, $188 00— 88 coaches, 
$265 75 — 13 carryalls, $13 00 — 6 gigs, $40 40. — Total $5132 87. 
Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $498 90 — in 1833, 
:l 24. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. 



Diana Mills, P. O. 75 m's. W. 
of R., and 160 from W. — situated on 
Slate river, 5\ m's. above its junction 
with the James, and 5 above Virginia 
Mills. It contains 1 dwelling house, 
and 3 stores Avhich do a good busi- 
ness. Slate river is a constant stream, 
portions of which run through a fine 
wheat and tobacco country. Popu- 
lation at Diana Mills 12. 

DiUGUiDsviLLE, or Bent Crecl-f, 
P. V. 196 m's. S. W. by W. of W. 
and 112 from R., situated in the S. 
W. part of the county at the mouth of 
Bent Creek on James river. A 
neat village with considerable trade, 
and containing 16 dwelling houses, 
3 general stores, 2 groceries, a tav- 
ern, a house of private entertainment, 
and a tobacco warehouse ; — at the 
latter were formerly inspected from 8 
to 1200 hogsheads of tobacco annual- 
ly, and it is yet much used as a place 



of deposite by the planters, prior to 
sending their tobacco to Richmond. 
The mechanics of the place are a 
tanner, saddler, Avheelwright, black- 
smith, cabinet maker, tailor, brick- 
layer, and stone mason : there are in 
the neighbourhood 2 extensive man- 
ufacturing mills, a grist and a saw 
mill:— from 20 to 30,000 bushels of 
wheat are annually purchased in the 
village. — A horse mail arrives thrice 
a week. Population 132, 1 of whom 
is a physician. 

Eldridges, p. O. 79 m's. W. of 
R., and 154 from W. 

Flood's P. O. 180 m's. S. W. of 
W., and 96 W. ofR. 

MAYSVILLE, P. V. and County 
Seat, 87 m's. W. of R., and 162 from 
W.— in lat. 37° 22' N., and long 1° 
32' W. of W. C, situated near the 
centre of the county on Slate Creek, 
35° N. of Lynchburg. It contains 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. 



135 



besides the county buildings, about 
50 dwelling houses, 1 Free church, 
and 1 Presbyterian, 1 female acade- 
my, and 2 elementary schools for 
boys, 4 mercantile stores, 1 apotheca- 
ries shop, and 3 taverns; — the me- 
chanics are 1 tanner, 2 saddlers, 2 
boot and shoe manufacturers, 1 silver 
smith and watch maker, 1 milliner 
and mantua maker, 2 wagon makers, 
2 cabinet makers, 3 tailors, 1 tin 
plate worker, and 1 miller. There 
are 5 arrivals of the mail in each 
week. Maysville contains 5 resident 
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. 
Population 300. 

County Courts, are held on the 
^d Monday in every month ; Quar- 
terly in March, May, August and 
November. Judge Daniel holds 
his Circuit Superior Court of Law 
and Chancery on the 10 th of August, 
and September. 

New Canton, P. V. in the north- 
ern part of the county, 63 m's. W of 
R., and 138 from W., situated at the 
mouth of Slate Creek, on an elevated 
bank about a fourth of a mile from 
James river, commanding a beautiful 
perspective view down the river. It 
was once a place of considerable 
trade, but has been for sometime ra- 
pidly declining. It contains 36 dwel- 
ling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 
tavern, 1 flour manufacturing mill, 
1 tanyard, and 1 saddler. A Free 
house of icorship is situated a mile S. 
of NeAV Canton; and 4 m's. W. the 
Virginia MilU,hY which large quan- 
tities of flour are manufactured, — they 
are situated on Slate river, on which 
several valuable slate quarries are 
opened. An iron foundry has lately 
been opened at New Canton, by which 
is manvifactured all qualities of iron. 

Immediately on Slate river the 
country is hilly, but soon becomes 
very level; — the borders of the river 
are very fertile, but the level country 



beyond the hills extremely sterile, 
except on the flats of creeks. New 
Canton has 1 attorney, and 1 physi- 
cian. Population 50. 

Neav Store, P. O. 81 m's. from 
R., and 167 S. W. from W. 

Oakville, p. V. in the S. W. part 
of the country, 49 m's. S. W. by W. 
of New Canton, 103 W. of R., and 
187 W. of W., situated at the inter- 
section of the roads leading from 
Bent creek, to Prince Edward C. H. 
and from Lynchburg to Stone Wall 
Mills, 2| m's. from the line of Camp- 
bell Co. It contains but 2 dwelling 
houses, and a store selling about 
$10,000 worth of goods annually. 

The land in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood of Oakville is sterile but 
level, the surrounding country is more 
fertile, and well adapted to the staples 
of the state. Much tobacco, Avas 
formerly raised in this section of 
country, but the planters are turning 
their attention more to the cultivation 
of the other staples, and to improving 
their land by clover, plaster, &lc. 
There is great variety in the soil, 
some being dark and stony, some red, 
and some gray, — the former is most 
productive. 

Physic Spring, P, O. 67 m's. W. 
of R. and 153 from W. 

Stone Wall Mills, P. O. in the 
S. W. part of the Co., 108 m's. S. W. 
of R., and 192 from W., situated on 
James river, 15 m's. below Lynch- 
burg. It contains 2 dwelling houses, 
1 manufacturing mill, 2 mercantile 
stores, 1 tailor, 1 shoemaker, and 1 
blacksmith. Located in a convenient 
place for sending produce to market 
by water; and surrounded by a 
healthy and wealthy neighbourhood. 
Population 20. 

Warren, Ferry, and P. O. 87 
m's. W of R. and 172 from W. — in 
the W. part of the Co., 10 m's. W.of 
the C. H. 



136 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. 



CAMPBELL. 

Campbell was created by the Legislature in 1784, from a portion of 
Bedford. It is bounded S. by Staunton, branch of Roanoke, which sepa- 
rates it from Pittsylvania and Halifax, W. by Bedford, N. by James river 
which separates it from Amherst, S. E. by Buckingham and Prince Ed- 
ward, and E. by Charlotte. Campbell approximates to a square of 24 m's. 
on each side, with an area of 576 sq. m's., and extends in lat. from 37° to 
37° 26' N. and long, from 1° 46' to 2°22 'W. of W. C. There are a few 
small mountains in Campbell : — both its bounding rivers the Staunton and 
James are navigable for boats far above its limits ; thus opening communi- 
cation with'^Chesapeake bay and Albemarle sound. Tlie surface is much 
broken, but productive in grain, fruit, tobacco, pasturage, &c. Population 
including the town of Lynchburg in 1820—16,570, in 1830—20,350. 
Campbell belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Taxes 
in 1833, $6682 53—1834, on lots, $1666 74— land, $3093 82— 



5128 slaves, $1282—3589 horses, $215 34—16 studs, $210 00— J 



coaches, $167 10—26 Carryalls, 
$6697 10. Amount expended in 
57— in 1833, $165 03. 



$26 50—57 gigs 
educating poor 



5 60.— Total, 
children in 1832, 



TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST-OFFICES, &c. 



Arnoldston, p. V. 219 m's. S. 
W. from W., and 141 from R., situ- 
ated at the junction of Otter river 
with Staunton, on the main southern 
road— 20 m's. from Lynchburg, and 
25 from the Peak's of Otter, which 
with several other picturesque moun- 
tains are in view. The country 
around is fertile, rich, well watered, 
thickly settled and healthy. The vil- 
lage contains several dwelling houses, 
I mercantile store, 1 wheelwright, 
■and a blacksmith shop, Avith various 
other mechanics. There are five 
grist and saw mills from 2 to 4 m's. 
distant; these mills are surrounded 
Xvith fine timber for building, &c. 
Population of Arnoldston 15. 

Brookneal, p. V. 162 m's. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 240 from W., situ- 
ated in the S. E. part of the county 
'on a beautiful eminence on the north 
bank of Staunton river, opposite the 
Seven Islands, a little above the junc 
lion of Big Falling river, with Staun^ 
•ton river. It contains 21 houses — 10 
of which are dwelling houses, 2 mer 
cantile stores, 1 Baptist house of wor- 
ship, 1 tavern, tan yard, saddler, tai 



or, boot and shoe factory, tobacco fac- 
tory, and 2 blacksmith shops; in the 
vicinity. On Big Falling river is a 
manufacturing mill. Population 1 09, 
of whom 61 are whites, and 48 blacks, 
and 1 a physician. The falls at this 
place and for some miles above are 
very considerable, on both rivers ; and 
fully adequate to the movement of any 
machinery whatever. The Staunton 
is the dividing line of Campbell 
and Halifax, and has at this place a 
ferry, and on the opposite side a ta- 
vern. For some miles above Brook- 
neal there is very little flat land on 
Staunton river, the hills which abound 
with fine building rock, running to 
the waters edge; but at Brookneal 
the flat land becomes wider and con- 
tinues to widen for miles beloAV. 
These flats are very fertile, producing 
most abundant crops of wheat, corn, 
oats and tobacco; and some parts also 
are well adapted to clover and grass. 
The uplands are of common quality, 
and abound with good oak, and pine 
timber. There are seA'eral fine beds 
of soap stone, and iron ore in this vi- 
cinity. 



Eastern Virginia— Campbell 



137 



CAMPBELL C. R, P. O. 210 
m's. from W., 133 from R. and 12 
m's. S. of Lynchburg. Besides the 
ordinary county buildings it contains 
12 dwelling houses, 2 taverns, 1 
classical and 1 common school, 2 
mercantile stores, 1 lanyard and seve- 
ral mechanics. The public buildings 
are large, neat and commodious, and 
the village rapidly improving. The 
mails arrive and depart 3 times a 
week. The population is from 90 to 
100; of whom 3 are attorneys and 1 a 
physician. 

County Courts, are held on the 2fZ 
Monday in every month : — -Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and Novem- 
ber. Judge Daniel holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the 26/A of April and 
September. 

Concord, P. O. lOG m's W. of R. 
and 192 from W., 12 m's, from Camp- 
bell C. H., and 13 from Lynchburg. 
Concord is the name of a small sec- 
tion of country in which the P. O. is 
located, and derives its name from a 
meeting house in the vicinity. The 
country around is fertile and thickly 
settled, and within 2 m's. of the P. O. 
are 3 houses of public worship — 
Presbyterian, Baptist and Methodist. 

Falling Bridge, P. O. 122 m's. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 203 from W. 
in the S. E. part of the county, 20 
m's. S. E. of Lynchburg. 

Flat Creek, P. O. 129 m's. S. 
W. by W. of R., and 207 miles 
from W. 

Greenhill, p. O. 152 m's. from 
R., and 230 from W. 

Leesville, p. V. 147 m's. S. W. 
by W. of R., and 225 from W., situ- 
ated at the junction of Staunton river 
and Goose creek. It contains 20 
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 
a tavern, tobacco factory and ware- 
house, manufacturing flour mill, 
hemp and wool carding machine and 
cotton gin, 2 tanyards, a tailor, 3 
blacksmiths and 2 boot and shoe fac- 
to'-ies. Population 65 ; of whom 1 is 
a physician. 18 



LYNCHBURG. The town of 
Lynchburg is situated on the S. or 
right bank of James river, in the N. 
W. corner of the county of Campbell, 
120 m's. W. from R. and 198 m's. 
S. W. from W. Its lat. is 37° 36' 
N. and its long. 79° 22' W. from 
Greenwich. 

The river in front of the town is 
about 200 yards wide, and flows to 
the S. E., giving the same direction 
to the principal streets. The naviga- 
tion is difficult, the river being ob- 
structed by shoals, rocks and rapids, 
throughout a considerable part of its 
course above tide-water, and admitting 
only the use of batteaux carrying 
about 5 tons. Their form is peculiar 
and excellent. 

The river is crossed in front of the 
centre of the town, by a plain wooden 
bridge, from which, and in the same 
direction, Water st. leads through the 
middle of the town, crossing the other 
streets at ri<^ hi angles. 

On the N. W. side, the town is 
limited by the abrupt bank of Black 
Water'"creek, which flowing N. E. en- 
ters James river a little above the 
bridge. The river banks on the 
N. E. side are broken, precipitant 
and elevated; presenting, in connec- 
tion with the distant view of the Blue 
Ridge and the Peaks of Otter, a scen- 
ery which has been universally ad- 
mired for its beauty and boldness. 

In some situations, the banks of the 
river disclose strata of earth in a man- 
ner highly interesting and instructive 
to the geological student. Lynch- 
burg stands in a primitive region, 
abounding in several varieties of the 
granitic rocks. Mica slate, horn- 
blende, chlorites, quartz, and various 
ores of iron, are often met Avith; and 
among the rarer minerals, lithomarge, 
an oxide of titanium, cyenite, asbestos, 
(fee. Gold, in small quantities, has 
been found in the neighbourhood. 
The quarries produce a compact mica 
slate, capable of being wrought easily 
with the chisel into blocks, havingf 



133 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. 



the closest resemblance to granite, and 
affording a building material highly 
valuable, but as yet too little appre- 
ciated. 

The streets parallel to the river, 
which have been more or less built 
upon, are 10 in number. Of these, 
the 2d or "Main street" is the princi- 
pal. Almost all the shops and stores 
of the town are situated on this street ; 
and for the distance of about three 
quarters of a mile, it presents continu- 
ous rows of tolerably well built 
houses. Main st. together with 3d, 
(the next in order, proceeding from 
the river,) occupies a bench on the 
river bank, at an elevation of about 
125 feet; while 4th st. is nearly 100 
feet higher; lying only a little below 
the common level of the country. 
These streets are crossed at right 
angles by 10 or 12 alleys, having 
Water st. in the middle, which be- 
tween 3d and 4th streets, is too pre- 
cipitous for the use of carriages of any 
kind. 

The number of houses is between 
8 and 900. The court house, market 
house, and other public buildings, ex- 
cepting a substantial stone jail, are in 
a style of architecture v.'hich does no 
credit to the place. The principal 
hotels are the Franklin and the 
Union, on Main st., and the "Wash- 
ington on 3d St. Several of the pri- 
vate dwellings would be considered 
ornamental to any city. 

The churches, in the order of their 
erection, are the Methodist Episcopal, 
the 1st Presbyterian, the 1st Baptist, 
the Protestant Episcopal Church of 
St. Paul's, the 2d Baptist, the Metho- 
dist Protestant, the 2d Presbyterian, 
and a Friend's meeting house in the 
vicinity of the town. These build- 
ings, 5 of which stand on 3d st. are 
mostly quite plain; 1 or 2 only having 
any pretensions to architectural pro- 
priety or ornament. 

Among the mechanics of I^ynch- 
burg are found — distributed in the 
usual proportions of an inland town, 



bakers, blacksmiths, cabinet makers, 
carpenters, carriage makers, chair 
makers, coopers, coppersmiths, gun 
smiths, hatters, masons, painters, print- 
ers, rope makers, saddlers, shoema- 
kers, silversmiths, tallow chandlers, 
tanners, tailors, tinners, turners, to- 
bacconists, &c. 

The principal manufacturing es- 
tablishments within the town, are 
a large and excellent' flour mill and a 
saw mill, on Black Water creek, with 
a number of others in the neighbour- 
hood, a carding machine on a rivulet 
at the lower end of the town, several 
brick yards, 2 extensive tanyards, and 
a good many tobacco factories, for 
stemming, manufacturing, &.c. These 
factories give employment to many 
hundred hands. A cotton factory on 
the right bank of Black Water creek, 
erected by the Lynchburg Manufac- 
turing Company with a capital of 
$100,000, and intended to run 2500 
spindles, and give employment to 
about 70 persons, is just getting into 
operation. This is the lir.st attempt 
of any importance to carry on the cot- 
ton manufacture in S. W. Virginia ; 
the success of the enterprise is confi- 
dently anticipated, and the hope is 
cherished that other capitalists may 
be induced to embark in similar un- 
dertakings among us, until at least 
the wants of the country depending 
upon Lynchburg are supplied Avith 
domestic fabrics of our own produc- 
tion. 

The Lynchburg Water Works, for 
furnishing the town with an unfailing 
supply of pure and wholesome water, 
were constructed in 1828-29, under 
the direction of Albert Stein, esq. En- 
gineer, at an expense of $50,000. 
The height — unprecedented in this 
country — to which it was necessary 
to raise the water, renders this one 
of the most interesting imdertakings 
of the kind in the United States. 

An arm of the Jaiues, formed by an 
island about 2 miles in length, is 
crossed, a short distance above the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. 



139 



limits of the corporation, by a dram 10 
feet high. A canal of half a mile in 
length conveys the water to the pump 
house on the river bank, at the foot of 
3rd alley. A double forcing- pump 
on the plan of De la Hire, worked 
by a large breast wheel, impels the 
water through the ascending pipe 
which is 200 feet long, to a reservoir 
containing 400,000 gallons, situated 
between 4th and 5th streets, and at 
the elevation of 240 feet above the 
level of the river. Fire plugs are 
connected with the distributing pipes 
at every intersection of the alleys with 
2'nd and 3rd streets, and afford an ad- 
mirable security against the danger 
of fire. The height of the reservoir, 
above these streets (the only ones 
compactly built,) gives a jet of Avater 
by means of hose pipes, of from 60 to 
80 feet elevation, and throws it, in 
bold and continuous streams, over the 
roofs of the highest houses. The 
water is extensively taken by the in- 
habitants, and the rents are already 
accumulatinof a sinkinsf fund for li- 



lottesville, distant 70 m's. N. E. has 
been skilfully graduated; and in spite 
of an uncommonly broken country, 
is now traversed with expedition and 
ease. The Richmond road is now 
being turnpiked to ChiUon's, 15 m's. 
from Lynchburg — the only part of 
the route ihat particularly required 
this mode of improvement. An ex- 
cellent turnpike is now nearly com- 
pleted from this place to Lexington, 
by the way of the Blue Ridge Canal 
on James river. This road passes 
near the Natural Bridge, 30 m's. from 
Lynchburg. A similar road having 
already been opened westward from 
Lexington to Covington, the most di- 
rect route from the lower country to 
the Virginia Springs, will now be 
found to lead through Lynchburg. 
The Lynchburg and eastern turnpike, 
running S. W. through New London 
and Libert)'-, is now completed half 
the distance. This is an expensive 
macadimised road. It enters Lynch- 
burg at the lower end of the town ; to 
accommodate the wants of the other 



quidating the debt incurred in con- end, an arm has been constructed 
structinsf these valuable works. from Cocke, or West street, (the north- 



The water power created by the 
dam for the water works, is amply 
sufficient for working a large addi- 
tional amount of machinery, and waits 
only for a clearer perception by cap- 
italists of the manufacturing advan- 
tages of this tovv'n, to be brought into 
extensive use. The cheapness of la- 
bour, the abundance of provisions, 
and the extent and wealth of the 
country looking this way for its sup- 
plies of domestic as Avell as of foreign 
goods, unite with the vast water pow- 
er actually prepared and ready for any 
application, in inviting the attention of 
men of capital and enterprise, to this 
important subject. 

Lynchburg has suffered much from 
the want of good roads, by which the 
products of the surrounding country 
might be conveyed to her market. 
The recent improvements, however, 
are important. The road to Char- 



ernmost alley,) intersecting the turn- 
pike a mile and a half from town. 

The " Piedmont road," by Char- 
lottesville, Lynchburg, Danville, Sa- 
lem, N. C, &CC. having lately been 
made the route for the great sovithern 
mail, the public at large have addi- 
tional inducements for improving the 
portion of it between Lynchburg and 
Danville. A good thoroughfare in 
this direction would prove an impor- 
tant accession to the commercial fa- 
cilites ot this town. 

A mail coach passes to and from 
Richmond 3 times a week; the line 
continues westward to Lewisburg in 
Greenbriar county, passing by Liber- 
ty in Bedford county, Fincastle in 
Botetourt county, and the Sweet and 
White Sulphur Springs, intersecting 
the line from Richmond by way of 
Charlottesville at the latter place. 
Just beyond the Blue Ridge, a branch 



140 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. 



of this line extends to Salem, Avhere 
it joins the line passing up the Valley 
from Staunton. &c. Another mail 
coach passes between this place and 
Washington city, by way of Char- 
iottesville 3 times a week; this line 
extends on south into Georgia. 

The commercial relations of Lynch- 
burg are extensive, embracing a large 
tract of country to the south and west. 
Exclusive of an important section of 
Virginia, the N. W. parts of North 
Carolina, and many counties in east 
Tennessee communicate Avith the At- 
lantic ports through this town. The 
recent arrangements for carrying 
through the long contemplated im- 
provements connecting the James and 
Kanawha rivers, are likely to affect 
the trade and prosperity of the place : 
but whether prosperously or adverse- 
ly, time must develope. In the year 
1832, a charter was obtained for "the 
Lynchburg and New River Rail Road 



Company," and a large amount of 
stock taken. Circumstances caused 
the abandonment of that undertaking; 
yet so important is it for Lynchburg 
to secure its S. W. trade, to the great- 
est extent, that the connection of the 
waters of the Tennessee M'ith the 
James river at this place, is an enter- 
prise that ought never to be lost sight 
of One of the richest sections of the 
Union will find this its most direct 
route to the Atlantic markets. 

The staple article of trade in Lynch- 
burg is tobacco ; for the inspection 
and storage of which there are in dif- 
ferent parts of the town, 7 large Avare- 
houses. So fertile and productive 
AA'ere — and in a measure, still are — 
the tobacco lands of the country trad- 
ing to Lynchburg, that in regard to 
the quantity inspected, the place has 
long been the largest tobacco market 
in the A\-orld. 



The following is a tahular view of the statistics of the Tobacco Trade of 
Ly7ichh(,rg for the last 12 years, including a statement of the inspec- 
tions at Richmond and Petersburg:' 



the year ending 


LYNCHBURa. 


RICHMOND. 


PETERSBURG 


Oct. 1st, 


Passed . 


Refused. 


Passed. 


Refused. 


Pa.ssed. 


Refused 


1822, 


10185 


1750 


7314 


2393 


13133 


4527 


1823, 


14061 


3057 


7716 


4561 


10628 


3352 


1824, 


12457 


1790 


8216 


3808 


8710 


2309 


1825, 


14817 


1957 


9254 


3041 


5866 


2067 


1826, 


11506 


1649 


8669 


3070 


1479 


1482 


1827, 


16127 


2465 


11142 


5087 


2096 


3346 


1828, 


13285 


2621 


10196 


7407 


1322 


4025 


1829, 


10981 


1946 


7970 


4626 


1201 


2407 


1830, 


11926 


3539 


8360 


7007 


2120 


4515 


1831, 


11842 


3743 


8939 


7419 


2002 


4634 


1832, 


9906 


3909 


5639 


5494 


1158 


3804 


1833, 


7957 


2173 


4868 


4617 


2877 


3605 



With the exhaustion of the rich 
soils that have heretofore produced 
that staple, the amount of tobacco 
groAA'n, and the profits of the busi- 
ness, must gradually diminish. ■, Ma- 
ny intelligent planters, foreseeing the 
inevitable course of things, are by de- 
grees abandoning the culture of the 
plant, and giving an increased atten- 



tion to the groAving of wheat and the 
improvement of their overcropped 
lands. There is not in the Union a 
soil superior to theirs if properly man- 
aged. Their success in clover and 
Avheat Avill animate the spirit of agri- 
cultural improA^ement, check the tide 
of emigration, and by furnishing in- 
creased quantities of merchantable 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. 



141 



produce, afford the surest guarantee 
for the permanent prosperity of their 
market town. 

The Lynchburg branch of the 
Bank of Virginia has a capital of 
$300,000, and that of the Farmers' 

Bank of Virginia, a capital of $ 

. There are also two Savings 

Banks, paying interest on deposites. 
The beneficial effects of these admi- 
rable institutions are widely felt. 

The most important Benevolent 
Societies of Lynchburg are, a Bible 
Society, auxiliary to the American 
Bible Society, instituted in the year 
1815; — a Colonization Society, insti- 
tuted in 1826, which has been instru- 
mental in sending out many people of 
color as colonists to Liberia, — and a 
numerous and influential Temperance 
Society. 

Lynchburg has no incorporated 
seminary of learning. The business 
of education is left entirely to indi- 
vidual enterprise. There is a good 
classical and mathemaiical school, se- 
veral schools for both sexes, and others 

for young ladies exclusively of 

which one is furnished with an exten- 
sive and costly Philosophical Appa- 
ratus. 

The town labors under the reproach 
of having no public library. 

In addition to the " Lynchburg Vir- 
ginian," a semi-weekly paper of long 
standing, another, also semi-weekly, 
has lately been established. 

The town was established in the 
year 178G, but so slow Avas its pro- 
gress that in 1793, it contained but 
five houses. The charter of incorpo- 
ration was obtained in 1805. Popu- 
lation in 1830, 4,630, including 12 
resident attorneys, and 15 practising 
physicians. 

Marysville, p. V. 147 m's. S. 
W. by W. of R., and 225 from W., 
situated in the S. part of the county, 
20 m's. S. W. of Lynchburg, and 15 
m's. S. of Campbell C. H., in a thick- 
ly settled and wealthy neighbourhood, 
on Seneca creek, a mile above its 



junction with Staunton river. It con- 
tains 20 dwelling houses, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
a tanyard, and various mechanics. 
Seneca creek has lately been improved 
by the Roayioke Company, and boats 
can now come up to the mill. Popu- 
ation 50. 

Moueman's p. O. 221 m's. from 
W., and 143 from R. 

New London, P. V. near the W. 
border of Campbell, 209 m's. from 
W. and 131 from R. New London 
is an incorporated town, situated on the 
Lynchburg and Salem turnpike, 1 1 
m's. S. W. of the former, and 50 E. 
of the latter. It contains 25 dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 
and 1 handsome Methodist meeting 
house, a rope walk, blacksmith shop, 
wheelwright, tanyard, and 2 saddlers. 
The New London Academy is situ- 
ated a mile W. of the town. At this in- 
stitution a student may be prepared to 
enter any of the colleges or Univer- 
sities with credit. There were in 
1834, 50 pupils: — the buildings con- 
sist of a handsome and commodious 
Academy, a presidents' house, and a 
large brick church well enclosed. 
The Bedford and Campbell Agricul- 
tural Society, holds its meetings at 
New London. There is a merchant 
mill on Buffalo creek, about half a 
mile west of the town, and another 
about the same distance south, both 
on a very extensive scale. Popula- 
tion 100. 

Neio London was founded about the 
year 1750, and about the time of the 
American revolution contained per- 
haps thrice its present number of in- 
habitants. There was then establish- 
ed at this place a United States armo- 
ry, and its artisans, which have since 
been removed to Harpers Ferry: — 
Five or six Scotch merchants, who 
were largely engaged in business 
about the commencement of the revo- 
lution, refused to take the oath of alle- 
giance, broke up their establishments, 
and left the country. These circum- 



k 



142 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAROLINE. 



stances combininp- with the establish- 
ment of Lynchburg so near it on 
James river, have given a shock to 
the prospcritj^ of the town from which 
it cannot recover. 

Under the old district system the 
Superior Court was held at New 
London. 

RED HILL, situated in the S. E. 
part of the county, on the borders ofi 



this county and Charlotte, about three 
miles below Brookneal, on the Staun- 
ton river — The residence of PAT- 
RICK HENRY, and the burial 
place of himself and his lady. 

Rekdy Spring, P. O. 110 ms. 
from R. and 19G S. W. of W. 

Yellow Branch, P. O. 135 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 213 from W. 



CAHOIilNE. 

Caroline was created by the House of Burgesses, in February, 1727, 
(in the language of the act) "on the heads of Essex, King and Queen, and 
King William." — The first court was held under a commission from Go- 
vernor Gooch, in May 1728. — It is bounded N. by the Rappahannock 
which separates it from King George, N. W. by same river separating it 
from Staflbrd, — N. E. by Essex, — E. and S. E. by King and Queen, and 
King William, — S. S. W. by the Pamunkey, which separates it from Han- 
over, — and W. by Spottsylvania. — Its shape is nearly a parallelogram, in 
length 30 miles from N. E. to S. W. and in breadth 20; — area 600 sq. ms. 
— lat. 37° 4' to 38^ IG' N. and long. 0° 2' to 0° 43' W^ of W. C— The 
surface is much broken, and the soil presents great variety. 

The Rappahannock and Pamunkey are on the borders of this county, 
and the Mattapony runs a little south of its centre, the low grovinds of these 
rivers are admirably adapted to the culture of Indian corn, wheat, and to- 
bacco, — indeed for the firs-t they are said to be the best lands in the state. — 
Its principal villages are Bowling Green and Port Royal, and its Academies 
Rappahannock and Concord. Caroline was formerly divided into three 
parishes, Drysdale and St. Mary's, created in 1727, and St. Margaretl's, in 
1744, in each of which a church was placed, only St. Margaretts remains: 
— but there are many other churches and meeting houses in the county, 
which belong principally to the prevailing denomination — the Baptist. The 
people are religious, and remarkable for their wealth, hospitality and intel- 
ligence; — it was the birth place of the republican John Taylor, — the 
highly gifted Edmund Pendleton, and the chivalric General Wood- 
ford. Population, 1820, 18,008 — in 1830, 17,744. — Caroline belongs to 
the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4440 82 
— 1834, on lots, $62 71 — lands, $2355 22— on 5581 slaves, $1395 25 — 
3015 horses, $180 90—11 studs, $133 00— on 71 coaches, $180 56— 
4 stages, $6 50—93 carryalls, $97 25—218 gigs, $121 94— Total, $4533 
33. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $519 88 — in 
1833, $539_.84. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

BOWLING GREEN, P. V. and I leading from Fredericksburg to Rich- 
county seat, 44 ms. N. N. E. of R. mond, 22 miles from the former. — 
and 78 from W. on the main road j The public buildings are new, hand- 



Eastern virc4inia— Caroline. 



143 



SOiAc, and spacious, consisting of a 
court house, clerk's office, and jail, 
recently erected; one Episcopalian 
house of worship, and in the vicinity 
one church belonging to the (reform- 
ed) Baptists. There are 29 dwelling 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 grist 
and saw mill, 1 coach and wagon 
manufactory, 2 blacksmiths, 1 tan- 
yard, 2 tailors, 2 bricklayers, 1 house- 
joiner, and 2 boot and shoe factories; 
2 elementary schools, one for each 
sex ; 1 well organized Sunday 
school, and 1 temperance society; al- 
so a female benevolent association, 
which has a fair annually, the profits 
of which are appropriated to benevo- 
lent purposes. 

This village is located on a beauti- 
ful level green, ornamented with fine 
trees; it derives its present name from 
the nature of its location, its original 
name was New Hope. — The seat of 
county justice was removed to this 
place in 1805. The railroad now 
under contract between Fredericks- 
burg and Richmond, is expected to 
make this village a place of consider- 
able trade. — A line of stages running 
N. and S. pass here twice a day; and 
two cross mails from E. to W. — The 
surrounding country is remarkable 
for its healthiness and fertility, pro- 
ducing abundantly all the staples of 
the state. Population 317 persons, 
of whom 6 are attorneys, and 2 phy- 
sicians. 

County Courts are held on the 2fZ 
Monday in every month: — Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and No- 
vember. 

Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \st of May, and \Qih of Sep- 
tember. 

Chilesburg, p. O. 55 ms. from 
R. and 83 from W. 

GOLANSVILLE, P. O. 43 ITIS. N. of 

R. and 90 S. S. W. of W.— It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, a mer- 
cantile store, tanyard, blacksmith, 
saddle and harness maker, tailor, to- 



bacco factory, manufacturing mill, 
and a grist and saw mill. Popula- 
tion 21 whites and 53 blacks. The 
scenery around is pretty and the 
country health j'-; the soil is good, 
adapted to Indian corn, wheat, oats, 
and tobacco of fine quality. There 
are two mineral springs in the neigh- 
borhood, supposed to contain iron and 
sulphvir. 

Jemap, p. O. 69 ms. from R. and 
68 from W. C. 

Mill Farm, P. O. 44 ms. from 
R. and 93 S. of W. 

Oxford, P. O. 33 ms. from R. and 
100 from W. 

Port Royal, P. V. on Rappa- 
hannock opposite Port Conway in 
King George, 59 ms. from R. and 78 
from W. — on the S. side of the river 
22 ms. below Fredericksburg. It is 
one of the oldest towns in Virginia, 
and was rapidly declining until a few 
years past, but is now improving. It 
contains 236 houses, 2 houses of pub- 
lic worship, 1 methodist and 1 Epis- 
copalian, 6 mercantile stores, and 1 
merchant mill. The mechanics are 
a tanner, saddler, carriage maker, 
and ship builder. Population in 1 830, 
600; 2 of whom are attorneys, and 2 
physicians. 

Port Royal was created a town by 
the House of Burgesses in 1744. — It 
possesses a fine harbor, which readily 
admits vessels drawing eleven feet 
water; it was formerly one of the 
principal markets in the state for to- 
bacco, but has now lost this important 
trade; it yet however exports large 
quantities of wheat and Indian corn. 
— Two steamboats regularly stop four 
times a week at this place on their 
route between Fredericksburg and 
Baltimore. 

Rappahannock Academy, P. O. 
64 ms. N. N. E. of R. and 72 S. S. W. 
of W., in the N. part of the county. 
— This was a flourishing and useful 
school a few years since, but we be- 
lieve there has been no teacher there 
for some time pa.st. — Wc now how- 



144 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLES CITY. 



ever see an advertisement, which states 
that the school will be opened on the 
15th January, 1835, with teachers fully 
competent to teach all the branches 
of education usually taught in our 
schools. 

Sparta, P. O. 48 ms. from R. and 
89 from W. 

Turner's Store, P. O. 86 ms. 
from W. and 36 N. of R. 



Veilleboro', p. O. in N. part of 
the county, 8 ms. N. of Boiding 
Green, the seat of justice, 70 ms. S. 
S. W. of W. and 52 from R. on the 
stage road leading from Fredericks- 
burg to Richmond, 14 miles from the 
former. 

White Chimneys, P. O. 30 ms, 
N. of R. and 92 from W. 



CHARLES CITY. 

Charles City was one of the eight original shires into which Vir- 
ginia was divided by the House of Burgesses in 1734. It is bounded S. 
by James river which separates it from Surry, Prince George, and Ches- 
terfield, — E. by the Chickahominy, Avhich separates it from James City, — 
N. by the same river separating it from New Kent, and W. by Henrico. 
Length 26 miles, mean breadth 8; area 208 sq. miles: extending from lat. 
37° 9' to 37° 28' N. and long. 0° 5' E. to 0° 22' W. of W. C— The sur- 
face of the county is rolling. — This county being so advantageously situ- 
ated on tide Avater, transacts its mercantile business directly with the large 
cities, and hence has not given growth to the number of little villages, with 
which many of our counties are crowded. Population 1820, 5255 — in 
1830, 5500. — Six attorneys, five regular physicians, and sundry Thomso- 
nia7is reside in the county. There are 2 Episcopal, 1 Quaker, 3 Baptist, 
and 4 Methodist churches in the county; also 1 classical academy, and seve- 
ral inferior schools; 7 mercantile stores, 1 asylum for the poor, 5 grist mills, 
2 saw mills, and various mechanics. Taxes paid in 1833, $1397 84 — in 
1834, on land, $798 88— 1579 slaves, $394 75—836 horses, $50 16—3 
studs, $52 00— 33 coaches, $81 50— 8 carryalls, $8 00— 45 gigs, $28 45. 
Total $1413 74. — In the primary schools no operations. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «kc. 



CHARLES CITY C. H., P. O. 
near the centre of the county 30 ms. 
S. S. E. of R. and 152 from W.— 
The only buildings are the court 
house, clerk's office, jail, a tavern, 
and a private dwelling. 

County Courts are held on the od. 



Thursday in every month; — Quar- 
terly in March, May, Augusts, and 
November. 

Judge Upshur holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \sl of April and I2th of 
October. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 145 

CHARLOTTE. 

Charlotte was created by the Legislature in 1764, from a part of 
Lunenburg county. The Southwestern border of Charlotte is washed by 
Staunton river, which separates it from Halifax. On the west, the line 
which separates Charlotte from Campbell runs on a ridge of highlands 
which give rise to waters flowing westwardly into Falling river, and east- 
wardly into Turnip creek. On the N. and N. E. the line, which separates 
Charlotte from Prince Edward, runs on a ridge of high lands, which give 
rise to waters flowing north and northeastwardly into the Appomatox, and 
south into the Staunton river. On the E. and S. E. the line, which sepa- 
rates Charlotte from Lunenburg, runs on a ridge which gives rise to 
Avaters flowing southeastwardly into the Meherrin, and westwardly into 
tributary streams of Staunton. On the S. the line which separates Char- 
lotte from Mecklenburg, runs on a ridge, which gives rise to waters flow- 
ing south into the Meherrin and northwestwardly into Bluestone. Length 
22 miles, mean breadth 18, and area 600 sq. miles: extending in lat. from 
36° iV to 37° 16' N. and in long, from 10° 33' to 2° 05' W. of W. C— 
Charlotte county contains by actual surveys as entered on the commission- 
er's books, about 310,000 acres of land, valued, together with buildings, 
under the equalizing laws, to something near 2,275,000 dollars ; the aver- 
age price per acre under that calculation including buildings is S8 75. 
The buildings being valued at nearly 356,000 dollars ; the average price 
per acre wihout the buildings is about $7 60. — The census taken in the 
year 1830, gives to the county, 15,252 souls — shewing about 20 acres to 
each individual in the county. 

The general surface of the county is greatly diversified with hills and 
vales, embracing every A-ariety of soil, and is watered by numerous creeks 
and rivulets all tributary to Staunton river, except the head branches of the 
Meherrin, on the E. and S. E. The principal streams of Charlotte flow- 
ing into Staunton and its tributaries, are the following. 

The first, beginning in the Avestern part of Charlotte, is Turnip Creek, 
the head AA^aters of AA'hich rise in the neighborhood of the Red House, near 
the Campbell line, it runs south and enters Staunton river just aboA'e Cole's 
Ferry. This is not a large stream, yet it affords considerable bottom or 
flat land, especially at and near its mouth. It is from 15 to 20 miles in 
length. 

The next in order, proceeding southeastAvardly is Cub Creek, the head 
branches of Avhich are in Campbell county; from the place Avhich it enters 
the county to its junction Avith Staunton, the distance is from 30 to 40 
miles. It has many tributary streams ; — those on the west are Bear Creek, 
rising near the Red House. Turkey Cock and Louse Creek, — thetAvo first 
are inconsiderable streams, the last is from 10 to 12 miles in length and at 
and near its junction Avith Cub creek, a little above BaldAvin's mills, 
aflfords much A'aluable bottom lands. Those on the E. are Little Cub, 
Horsepen, Rough creek, and Tern/s creek. Cub creek Avith its tributary 
streams AA^aters a large and valuable portion of the upper end of Charlotte, 
affording a considerable quantity of rich bottom land and hill sides Avell suit- 
ed to the groAA^th of the various kinds of grain, and in many places, produc- 
ing tobacco of the finest quality. It enters Staunton river 3 or 4 miles be- 
loAV Cole's Ferry. 

Next is Wallace^s creek. Its head spring is near the road leading from 
19 



146 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 

Charlotte court house to Cole's Ferry, it flows through a neighborhood of 
very good land, and enters Staunton just above Morion's Ferry: it is from 
9 to 10 miles in length. 

Next in order is Little Roanoke ; Avhich rises in the northeastern part of 
Charlotte, near the Prince Edward line, and runs southwest through the 
county and empties into Staunton river about 4 miles below Clark's Ferry. 
It is from 25 to 30 miles in length. This stream with its tributaries, waters 
a great part of the lower end of Charlotte, as well as a valuable part of 
the upper end. It is a low, flat and sluggish stream, affording very little 
fall of water, and contains as much bottom land as any in the state of its 
size and length ; particularly at its mouth ; where there is a body of rich 
low grounds, including those on Staunton, of fully a thousand acres. 
Randolph's Lower Quarter, situated below its mouth, itself contains be- 
tween 7 and 800 acres in one body. The principal tributary stream, to 
Little Roanoke, on the west, is Wardsfork ; which rises in the neighbor- 
hood of Chickentown in the upper end, and with its tributaries, waters 
the best tobacco land in the county ; indeed the lands on this stream are 
remarkable for their universal fertility. It flows into L. Roanoke on a 
low bed at right angles — hence a large body of low grounds, the largest 
in the interior of the county, was for a long time under Avater and con- 
.sidered irreclaimable. These grounds remained common until within a 
few years past, and were so injurious to heahh as to be considered a public 
nuisance. About the year 1817 James W. Bouldin purchased a tract of 
land immediately in the fork, containing bottom lands on both streams, and 
commenced reclaiming. About the j^ear 1819 his brother Judge Bouldin 
purchased a tract above on L. Roanoke, and commenced draining : the 
plan of draining as it relates to the courses and location of the ditches on 
both purchases was laid out and executed under the direction of James W. 
Bouldin. By these means, certainly the largest, if not the finest body of 
low grounds, in the neighborhood of the Courthouse, is, from a wilderness 
of bogs, mire and stagnant waters, rendered arable and comparatively 
heahhy. 

The next tributary on the west is Dunnii-ayit ; which rises in the neigh- 
borhood of Edmond's Store, and flows through a neighborhood of good 
land, into L. Roanoke, just above Dabbs' Bridge. 

On the E. the first tributary stream is HelVs creek, though a small 
stream, it affords much good bottom land, particularly towards its mouth. 
It enters Little Roanoke just below L. Roanoke bridge. 

Next in order are Spencer'' s and Spring creeks, rising on the dividing 
ridge, which separates Charlotte from Prince Edward and Lunenburg. 
They unite just before they flow into Little Roanoke. Just below their 
junction and at their mouth, 'there is a large body of valuable flat land. 
That which lies above, immediately on L. Roanoke, is of the pipe clay 
'"Stjii-*n4-was fhrmerly liable to inundations. Much has been done for its 
recovery from water and to improve its quality, still it is not equal to land 
above and below it. 

Next is Ash Camp, it rises in the neighborhood of Keysville, in a poor 
.country, but as you descend this creek, the quantity and quality of the bot- 
tom lands increase. 

Next is Twitti.es' Creek. It rises on the ridge, which separates the 
waters of Meherrin from those of Staunton river^ This is a longer and 
larger stream than those just mentioned. It aflx)rds a considerable quan- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 147 

thy of flat lands, yet with some few exceptions, the plantations on this 
stream are not remarkable for their productions. It enters Little Roanoke 
on a tract of land on which the late Judge Paul Carrington, Jr. resid- 
ed ; it is considered very valuable. The first brick house in the county 
was built on this tract. 

The next streams are the Horsepens. They rise on the same ridge, the 
branches of which water a great part of the southeast of Charlotte. The head 
streams rise in and run through a body of as poor lands as any in the 
state, but as you approach their mouths, the quantity and quality of good 
lands increase, and after they unite the Horsepen affords much valuable 
low grounds. It enters L. Roanoke just above Jo/m Ra,ndoli)h''s Lower 
Quarter. 

ReijyiolcVs Creek is a tributary to this stream. It rises on the road that 
leads from the Double Bridges in Lunenburg to Moseley's Ferry. It runs 
through a neighborhood once of very fine lands, but much exhausted by 
cultivation ; it enters the Horsepen ju.st below Bedford's Bridge. 

Next to L. Roanoke on the S. we come to Sandy Creek. In this portion 
of the county the soil and quality of the lands are essentially different from 
those in other parts. The soil is universally sandy or gravellJ^ and upon 
a slight view, it w'ould appear to those v/ho lived on lands of a different 
texture, to be very unproductive ; but it is known to be as productive for 
all kinds of grain and grass as any in the county, similarly situated, and 
of late years tobacco is produced of fine quality by judicious cultivators. 
Those who live on these lands, say that they vegetate quicklj^ are soon 
exhausted, but revive speedily, when proper measures are used. Several 
valuable plantations lie on Sandy Creek, near its mDuth. It is a short 
stream, and enters Staunton a little above Moseley's Ferry. 

After leaving Sandy Creek, the county becomes very • narrow to its 
southern extremity, a ridge running between Bluestone and Staunton to its 
termination. The first tributary, to Staunton after leaving Sandy Creek, is 
Buffaloe. This stream rises in the neighborhood of Jeffrey's Store and 
runs into Staunton river, a ^g\\ miles below ?vIoseley's Ferry. 

The next are CarglVs and Hoga?Cs Creeks. Two small streams water- 
ing the extreme south of the county. Hogan's Creek with its branches 
water some very valuable land. 

Bluextone aflbrds to this county some very valuable land, originally very 
fine, having a rod clay foundation Avith mulatto soil. 

S(amit07i river gives to this county as much valuable bottom lands, as 
it does to any county on its waters. On the western extremity of the 
county, at the mouth of FaUin.g river, lived and died the distinguished 
Patrick Henry. His residence was on the termination of the ridge, 
w^iich separates Charlotte from Campbell. It is called Red Hill, from 
which there is a very handsome southern view of a A-ery large body of 
rich low grounds, estimated at 500 acres. It is now the property of his 
two youngest sons. The remains of the orator and his lady repose on the 
spot. 

The next most conspicuous place on the river, proceeding southwardly, 
is called Ward\<; Neck, situated just above the mouth of Cub Creek, be- 
tween that and Cole's Ferry ; it is embraced by a large bend or curve of 
the river, corresponding with the Cove in Halifax, which lies just below 
it on the opposite side of the river. It affords several beautiful situations 



148 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 

for buildings, on elevated, fertile and level table lands, skirted by the richest 
and most fertile low grounds or river bottoms. 

The next place just below Clark's Ferry, is the residence of the late 
John Randolph of Roanoke. Proceeding southwest from the Court- 
house, on the main southern stage road, when getting within a mile of 
Clark's Ferry, a left hand road leads up a gentle assent to the summit of 
the only hill in the county, dignified by the name of mountain. On this 
summit stands the buildings, late the residence of this illustrious orator. 
They are situated literally in the woods ; for there is not a vestige of land 
cultivated in view — they consist of two plain wooden buildings, of one story 
each, with two rooms on a floor, within a few steps of each other; the 
back building, which he mostly occupied, is entered through a piazza, on 
a pebble floor, the roof of which is supported by unheivn posts taken im- 
mediately from the forest. Notwithstanding the simplicity of the out- 
ward appearance of these buildings, within the furniture, plate, paintings 
and library corresponded with the elevated characted of their owner, es- 
sentially rich but plain. A few steps to the west of the front building 
under a large pine tree, is interred the body of that Man, whose inimitable 
eloquence once electrified the people of the United States, and whose fame 
almost reached the remotest bounds of the civilized world. 

Immediately below Mr Randolph's, near the junction of the L. Roanoke 
with Staunton river, on an elevated and beautiful site, stands the residence 
of the late Judge Paul Carrington, Sen. It is now the property of his 
youngest son. Judge Carrington was a member of the bar of the covmty 
of Charlotte, when the county court was organized in the year 1765, he had 
been a practising lawyer and a member of the House of Burgesses, when 
this county was a part of Lunenburg. After the British Governor, Lord 
Dunmore, had abdicated the government of Virginia, a convention met 
in Richmond in the year 1775, to organize a provincial form of govern- 
ment and plan of defence for the colony. This plan of defence Avas sub- 
mitted by them to a committee of public safety. Paul Carrington was one 
of that committee. He subsequently became a Judge of the Court of Ap- 
peals, in which office he remained until a few years previous to his death. 

After leaving the lands at the mouth of the L. Roanoke, the quantity 
and quality of the low grounds decrease, so far as the county of Charlotte 
reaches on the river. 

Upon a general view of the soil, it may be said, that it is generous and 
free — that most of the wood, on the streams and hill sides has been cut 
down, the hill sides much exhausted, yet the bottom lands are generally 
productive, more especially where they are, in the hands of judicious cul- 
tivators. Our ridges contain the only forests, and they are mostly poor and 
barren — valuable only for their timbers. These remarks hold good gene- 
rally, except those tracts in possession of large land holders, on some of 
which, there are still some good bottom and high lands uncleared, particu- 
larly on L. Roanoke, Cub creek and Wardsfork. 

Agriculturalists say with confidence, that it is found by a proper course 
of cultivation, that all exhausted lands, originally good, especially those 
with red clay foundations are recoverable, and can be brought back to their 
original fertility — if so, it is confidently hoped that a spirit of improvement 
in agriculture may prevail, which will" efl^ect this object. 

Minerals. — There is a singular vein of stone running through the coun- 
ty nearly from N. to S. It is composed of a series of round stones of va- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 149 

rious sizes, sometimes very large; — the vein in some places is barely per- 
ceptible, consisting of only a few round pebbles, in others it protrudes a 
rugged mass of rocks. Gold and Silver have been diligently sought, but 
710 1 found. 

Elections. — There are 3 precinct elections in the county — 1 at Harvey's 
store in Chicken-town, 1 at Fuqua's store, above Louse creek, both in the 
upper end of the county; and 1 at M'Cargo's in the lower end, near Wil- 
liesburg. 

Poor. — The County Court has lately purchased land and erected build' 
ings about 7 miles from the C. H. for the accommodation of the poor. The 
present inmates are 6 males, and 9 females. This arrangement is expected 
to lessen considerably the poor rates of the county. 

Society. — The great men who have resided in Charlotte, and the many 
pious and good men which she has produced, operating by their example 
and exertions upon an intelligent community, have given to Charlotte so- 
ciety a tone of dignified and lofty sentiment, not often met with, and not 
soon to be laid aside. 

Two Agricultural Societies have lately been formed in the county; 1 
at Charlotte C. H., the other near Wyliesburg in the lower end. These 
societies embrace the most wealthy and enterprising citizens of their re- 
spective neighbourhoods. 

The Main Western Road, from the east, leading by Prince Edward C. 
H. enters this county near the sources of Spring creek, after entering the 
county, the main or right branch crosses Cub creek at Harvey's bridge, 
thence by the Red House to Lynchburg and Campbel C. H. The left 
leads on by Rough creek church, crosses Cub creek, at Rawlins' bridge, 
after which it branches; the right goes on the ridge, on the head waters of 
Louse creek and Turkey cock, and intersects with a road leading from 
Cole's ferry, by the Red House, to Lynchburg. The left, at Rawlins' 
bridge, leads on by Chappel's shop, and Gaines' ; crosses Lovtse creek at 
Dennis', thence to Fuqua's store — after which it again branches: the j^rs^ 
right leads on to Hat creek in Campbell, the next to Booker's ferry and 
Red hill, crossing Turnip creek at Oliver's, just below Bruce's mill. The 
left to Cole's ferry. 

The ?iext road, that enters the county from the east by Prince Edward 
C. H. is the 7nain southern stage road — it enters the county near the head 
waters of L. Roanoke, crosses that stream at L. Roanoke bridge, crosses 
Dunnevant, at Spencer's, thence to Charlotte C. H., a little abov^e which, it 
branches: the right leading across Woodsfork to Price's old field, where it 
again branches : the right leading to White's tavern, Avhere a left leads to 
the Red House, where it intersects with the main western road. The left 
at Price's old field leads to the road leading from Rough creek church to 
Booker's ferry, and to Cole's ferry. The left above Charlotte C. H. is the 
continuation of the stage road, and leads to Morton's ferry, and to Clark's 
ferry. 

The next road that passes through the county from the east, is by 
Moor's old ordinary in Prince Edward, it enters the county at Clark's, 
Avhere it immediately branches. The right leads to L. Roanoke bridge; 
and thence to the main ■western road near Chicken (own : the left at Clark's 
leads to Keysville, thence to Charlotte C. H. At Kej^sville it branches, 
the right leading on the ridge between Ash camp and Tuelties' creek to 



150 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 



BouUlin's old storo,* thence to Charlotte C. H. and thence it intersects with 
Booker's ferry road at Harris's. 

The next road, that enters the county from the east, is one that crosses 
the Double Bridges in Lunenburg; it enters the county near Hayleysburg, 
thence by Eubank's store, to Brigdewater's, near Avhich place it branches. 
The left leading on the ridge separating the waters of Meherrin from a 
branch of the Bluestone, to Mack Goode's. The right or main road at 
Brige water's leads by Leciprus' store, and M' Cargo's to Wyliesburg, 
Avhen it branches; the right leads across Sandy creek by Brock's, to Mose- 
ley's ferry; the left leads to Callicote's, thence to Brook's Avhere it intersects 
with the Mosel}'- ferry road, to Jeffries' store, to Blank's ferry, and to Clarks- 
ville and Abbeyville, in Mecklenburg. Population in 1820, 13,290—1830, 
15,252. Charlotte belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 5th district. 

Taxes paid in 1833, $4,239 97— in 1834, on land, $22,177 77—5288 
slaves, $1,322—3569 horses, $214,14 12, studs, $280—113 coaches, 
$283 65— 24 carryalls, $24— 99 gigs, $57 85. Total $4,361 41. Am't. 
expended in educating poor children in 1832, $360 16— in 1833, $467 96. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



FiNEwooD, p. V. 114 m's. S. W. 
of R., and 205 from W., situated in 
the lower end of the Co. on the wa- 
ters of Bluestone creek, on the road 
leading from Charlotte C. H. to Boyd- 
ton, Randolph Macon College, &c. in 
Mecklinburg, in a fertile and healthy 
neighbourhood. 

Friend's Grove, P. V. 195 S. S. 
W. of W., and 104 S. W. of R., 7 
m's. E. of the C. H., and 4 from 
Keysville. It contains 1 mercantile 
store, a tobacco factory giving employ- 
ment to 30 hands, and a blacksmith 
shop. 

Harvey's Store, P. O. 108 m's. 
S. W. of R., and 199 from V^^. 

MARYSVILLE, P. O. and Seat 
of Justice, 30 m's. S. E. of Lynch- 
burg, 96 m's. S. W. of R., and 187 
from W. in lat. 37° 03', N. long. 1° 
52' W. of W. C, situated on the 
main southern stage road, on a ridge 
between Little Roanoke and its tribu- 
tary Wardsfork, about 4 m's. from 



contains a large C. H. built on a plan 
furnished by Mr. Jefferson, a jail of 2 
stories, with a jailor's house, also of 2 
stories, immedialel}'- in front of it ; all 
of brick except the jail, which is of 
ponderous hewn stone: — besides these, 
the village contains 40 dwelling 
houses, a Baptist and a Presbyterian 
house of worship, 2 well kept taverns, 
5 mercantile stores, 1 classical and 1 
common school, a temperance society, 
and a bible society hold their quarter- 
ly and annual meetings in this place. 
The vicchanics, are a tanner, 3 sad- 
dlers, and 2 tailor shops both of which 
employ a number of hands, 3 black- 
smiths, 4 Avagon makers shops, each 
of which employ 8 or 10 hands, and 
1 carriage maker, 1 cabinet maker, 3 
boot and shoe factories, besides seve- 
ral house carpenters and bricklayers. 
The mail is delivered thrice a week. 
Population 475 persons; of whom 4 
are attorneys, and 3 physicians. 
County Courts are held on ihe first 



iheir junction. The Public Square' Monday in every month ; — Quarterly 

* This place, Bouiuiii's old slore, i.s one of the oldest settlements in this county ; the 
settlement was made by Col. Thomas Bouldin, who removed from Maryland, and 
settled here — within a few hundred yards of this place was buried the late Thomas 
T. Bouldin, deceased, here are buried also his father and grand father. Here also 
resides his mother, the sister of the late governor Tyler, active and healthy at the 
advanced age of 8'2 years. Seldom does it occur in this countrv. that the same lanu- 
ly resides at the .^anie place for so long a time. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 



151 



ill March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. Judge Leigh, holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the I6th of April and September. 

Harvey's Store, P. O. 108 m's. 
from R. and 199 from W. 

Keysville, p. V. on the head of 
Meherrin river, 99 m's. S. W. of R. 
and 190 from W. It contains 7 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 mercantile store, a tav- 
ern, 2 wagon makers employing ma- 
ny hands, 2 blacksmiths, 1 boot and 
shoe factorjr, an excellent wool-card- 
ing machine on an extensive scale, 
and a cotton gin. Population 70. 

Red House, P. O. 112 m's. S. W. 
of R., and 194 from W. 

Rough Creek Church, P. O. 
105 m's. S. W. of R., and 196 from 
W., situated 9 m's. W. of the C. H. 
between Cub creek, and its tributary 
Rough creek: at this place there are 
2 stores, a Presbyterian church, a 
blacksmith and tailor, several private 
dwellings, and a resident physician. 



This has been, and still is in some 
measure, a favourite place of resort 
for the people of the upper end for 
political or social purposes. 

Roanoke Bridge, P. O. 89 m's. 
S. W. of R. and 180 from W., situated 
on the waters of L. Roanoke in a fer- 
tile and healthy district: — contams a 
store, a mill, and a blacksmith shop. 

Wheeler's Spring, P. O. 99 
m's. from R., and 190 from W. 

Wyliesburg, p. O. 107 m's. from 
R., and 222 from W., situated on the 
road leading from the Double Bridges 
to Moselcy's ferrj-, 18 m's. S. of the 
C. H. It contains at this time a store, 
a blacksmith, and a resident phy- 
sician. This is a place of meeting 
for the lotoer end, as Rough creek 
church is for the upper end of the 
county. The road leading by Char- 
lotte C. H , and Reed's mill to Clark's 
ferry, is the dividing line of these 2 
divisions. 



CHESTERFIELD. 



Chesterfield was created by the House of Burgesses in 1748, from 
a part of Henrico. It is bounded N. by the James which separates it from 
Henrico, and Charles City, — E. S. E. by the Appomattox, which separates 
it from Prince George, — S. and S. W. by the same river, separating it from 
Dinwiddle S. and Amelia S. W. — and W. N. W. by Powhatan. Extreme 
length from the junction of Appomattox with James, to the Avesteru angle 
38 miles, mean breadth 12, — area 456 square miles. Lat. 37° 10' to 37° 
31' N. and long. 0° 22' to 1° 05' W. of W. C— The surface is broken, 
and the soil is poor except on the rivers. — The most profitable railroad in 
the world is in this count}", from James river to the coal mines, a distance 
of 13 miles. We subjoin an account of these mines from the pen of a tra- 
veller : 

"These coal mines are on the south side of James river, about twelve 
miles above the city of Richmond. At this city the granite rock makes its 
appearance. It forms the bed of the river, and affords an inexhaustible 
water power. On the road to the Chesterfield mines, rocks are not seen 
until you get near the mines. The country is rolling, and has the aspect 
of barrenness and poverty — yet good husbandry would soon give to it fresh- 
ness and beauty. — The elevation is gradual to the west, and as far as I could 
judge, the summit level, at the mouth of the Maidenhead mine, is about 
300 feet above the tide water in James river. 

"Within the circumference of about a mile square, there have been seve- 



152 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 

ral mines opened and seven or eiglit are now wrought. The rock is not 
many feet below the surface, and is from two hundred and fifty to four hun- 
dred and fifty feet thick. The prevailing rock is a light grey coarse sand 
stone — rather hard and some of it sparkling with chrystalized quartz. This 
rock alternates with a bluish clay in a state of considerable compactness, 
and with shell. — Much of thcvse last two are so filled with the sulphate of 
iron, minutely disseminated, that they soon decompose in the atmosphere. 
There is no trace of the lime rock, nor as yet of the old red sand stone. It 
is doubtful, however, whether they have reached the bottom of the coal for- 
mation. At the bottom of one of the shafts, the floor vipon which the coal 
rests is called granite — but from the description of the rock, I concluded it 
must be the hardest of the scinite rocks. 

"The coal here is bituminous. The basins appear to be small, and the 
colliers complain of the faults and troubles in them. The coal seams are 
from a few inches to several feet in thickness — one has been found nearly 
twenty feet thick. The dip rarely exceeds forty-five degrees. Wooldridge's 
mine is the deepest and the only one which has a steam engine to raise the 
coal and the water out of the pit. The others employ mules. The mines 
are worked day and night, except Sundays — when the water is draivn as 
often as necessary to keep the works below from being flooded. Drifts are 
cut from the foot of the shafts, and some of those have been carried out seve- 
ral hundred yards. These are said to be from ten to twenty feet wide, and 
from five to twenty or thirty feet high. Mules are employed in the mines 
to draw the coal to the foot of the shafts. These are fed and stabled in the 
chambers of the mine. Nevertheless, they keep fat. And Avhat is certainly 
not a little remarkable to a novice, these mines abound in raus. They go 
down, it seems, on the ropes, attracted into these lartarean abodes by the 
provisions and provender, which are sent down for the negroes and mules. 
The negroes prefer this to labor in the field. 

"All these mines raise about two hundred tons of coal in each twenty- 
four hours. This coal is sent daily, (Sundays excepted,) in a team of se- 
venty to a hundred cars, over a fine rail-way thirteen miles, to the river. 

" There are several valuable coal mines on the north side of James river, 
in the western part of Henrico county. Coal has likewise been discovered 
in Goochland and Powhatan counties." 

Chesterfield belongs to the seventh judicial circuit, and fourth district. 
Population in 1820, 18,003— -in 1830, 18,637. Taxes paid in 1833, $5231 
31— in 1834, on lots $292 31— land, $2572 88— on 5266 slaves, $13 16 50 
—3134 horses, $188 64—12 studs, $390 00—123 coaches, $291 35—2 
stages, $6 00—46 carryalls, $52 00—234 gigs, $133 40. Total, $5252 
08. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $601 65 — in 
i833, $561 64. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bellona Arsenal, a United 
States military post, situated on beau- 
tiful elevated ground, on the south side 
of James river, 14 ms. above Rich- 
mond, 135 from W. and 2 south of 
Bellona P. O., Henrico counter. It 
was established in 1816-17, since 



which time it has been garrisoned by 
a company of U. S. Artillery. It has 
been a depot for a considerable quan- 
tity of military stores, and during a 
great portion of the time since its con- 
struction, a number of artificers have 
been employed in repairing and fubri- 



EASTERN V IRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 



153 



eating small arms and other muni 
tions of war. Immediately adjacent 
to the Arsenal, is Bcllona Foundry. 
owned by Major John Clarke, who 
for a number of years past has been 
casting cannon, — under an annual 
contract with the government — The 
guns made at this place are said to be 
unsurpassed in quality by any made 
in the United States. In consequence 
of the continuous expense and incon- 
venience of transportation to and from 
the arsenal — of the extreme difficulty 
arising from its isolated location, of 
obtaining and retaining the mechanics 
necessary for an arsenal of construc- 
tion — of the unsafe condition of the 
property at a point, where from its 
contiguity to the coal pits, a greater 
number of negroes could be collected 
in a few hours, than at any other place 
in the commonwealth, and of the re- 
puted unheahhiness of the place, — an 
order has lately been issued for aban- 
doning the post and removing the 
troops and property to Fort Monroe 
at Old Point Comfort. 

CoLEsviLLE, P. O. 36 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 158 from W. in the S. W. 
angle of the county. 

GooDSBRiDGE, P. O. 38 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 160 from W. I 

Hallsboro', p. V. 17 ms. fromj 
R. and 139 from W. — situated on the! 
Buckingham road leading from Rich-j 
mond to Lynchburg, 15 ms. from 
Scottsville in Powhatan county, — in a[ 
healthy and pleasant neighborhood. 
The soil in the vicinity is rather poor,| 
and most adapted to the culture of| 
oats and corn. — It contains several j 
dwelling houses, 1 large Baptist meet- 
ing house, (called " Be^Ac/,") a large, 
comfortable, and convenient tavern, a 
mercantile store, and a common school. 
20 



The Lynchburg stage passes every 
day in the week. 

Hatchersville, p. O. 11 ms. 
from R. and 133 from W. 

Manchester, P. V. 123 ms. from 
W. and 1 from R, — pleasantly situ- 
ated on the margin of James river, 
opposite to Richmond, to which it is 
united by Mayo's bridge across the 
rapids. It contains about 360 houses, 
2 houses of worship, 1 Methodist and 
the other Baptist, 2 common schools, 
6 grocery stores, 1 cotton seed oil 
mill, 1 cotton factory, with a capital 
of $70,000, 8 tobacco manufactories, 
1 poor asylum, and 1 merchant mill. 
The principal mechanical pursuits 
are, house-carpentry, cabinet making, 
(to considerable extent,) coach making, 
blacksmith's work, 66c. Population 
1500 persons; of whom two are at- 
torneys, and three physicians. 

The Chesterfield and Manchester 
Rail Road connects the strata of bitu- 
minous coal on James river, with its 
tide water, at Manchester; — It extends 
13^ miles in a single track, with se- 
veral turn-Guts, and 1^ mile branch- 
roads to the coal beds. — The compa- 
ny was incorporated by the Legisla- 
ture in 1829^ commenced work in 
January, 1830^ and was opened for 
use in July, 1831. This road was 
so profitable as to afford a dividend of 
TEN PER CENT, to the Stockholders 
^?^ the first six months; — A result 
which has not been equalled by any 
improvement in the United States, 
perhaps in the world. The cost of 
the road was $8,000 per mile; and 
including wagons, horses, &c. the 
whole disbursement of the company 
has been about $140,000: or $10,370 
per mile. 

Vadexsburg, P. O. 20 ms. S. of 
R. and 142 from W. 



154 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 

CuLPEPER was created by the Legislature in 1778 from a part of Orange. 
It is bounded N. and N. E. by the North Fork of Rappahannock river, 
which separates it from Fauquier N. and Stafford E. N. E. — E. and S. E. 
by the Rapid Ann river, which separates it from Spottsylvania E. and 
Orange S. E. — S. and S. W. by Orange, — W. and N. W. by the new 
county of Rappahannock. — We give its dimensions as they existed prior to 
the separation of Rappahannock, and expecting to receive information of 
the extent of the latter by the time it comes to press, by reference to that 
county, the present extent of Culpeper may be ascertained. Length of the 
old county from the junction of Rapid Arm and Rappahannock to its north- 
ern angle in the Blue Ridge 42 miles, — mean breadth 16, and area 672 
square miles; extending in lat. from 33° 15' N. and long, from 0° 35' to 1° 
20' W. of W. C. — We do not as yet know precisely to what lat. and long, 
the eastern boundary of Rappahannock extends. Besides its two boundary 
streams, Culpeper is watered by a number of creeks and rivers flowing N. 
E. into the Rappahannock, S. E. into the Rapid Ann; but the former being 
much longer, indicates the general slope of the county to be in that direc- 
tion, the chief of them is Aestham river which rises in Madison and crosses 
Culpeper; and next in importance. Mountain creek, which rises near the 
Madison line, flows nearly parallel to Hazel, branch of Aestham river, and 
empties like it into the Rappahannock. The surface is finely diversified 
with hill and dale, and contains large bodies of excellent land ; of the same 
general character which pervades the counties generally on the eastern foot 
of the Blue Ridge. Population in 1820, 20,942—1830, 24,027. Culpe- 
per belongs to the 1 1th judicial circuit, and sixth district. Taxes paid in 
1833, $3309 95— in 1834, on lots, $136 40— land, $1930 29— on 3222 
slaves, $805 50—3119 horses, $187 14— 9 studs, $122 00—43 coaches, 
$99 7,5 — 33 carryalls, $40 75 — 16 gigs, $9 10. Total $3330 94. 
Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $1012 93 — in 1834, 
$735 01. 

Historical Sketch. — Crilpcper county, at all times respectable, but 
chiefly distinguished in the revolutionary war, for the services of her Ed- 
ward Stevens, her John Green, and her gallant Minute Men, Avho, as 
Mr. Randolph said, in one of his speeches in the United States Senate, 
"were raised in a minute, armed in a minute, marched in a minute, fought 
in a minute, and vanquished in a minute;" — was first created in 1748, out 
of a part of the county of Orange. Every thing therefore of a prior date 
which relates to the present county, must be sought either in Orange, or in 
Spottsylvania, from which Orange was taken in 1734, or in Essex, from 
which Spottsylvania was taken in 1720; or lastly, in the old county of 
Rappahannock, which was divided in 1692; and Essex and the county of 
Richmond made oat of it; with a direction that the records belonging to 
the county court of Rappahannock, prior to that division, which was in fact 
an extinction of it, should be kept in Essex. — In 1793, Madison was taken 
from Culpeper, and in 1833, she was still further reduced in importance 
and extent by the act of assembly, which created a new county and revived 
in it the name of Rappahannock, with this difiercnce, that it is now the soil 
frotn which that valuable stream derives its sources, instead of that through 
which it flowed in the full majesty of its accumulated strength. The boun- 
daries of Culpeper, at the present time, are the same that formerly existed, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 155 

except the dividing line between it and Rappahannock. That, unfortunately, 
is so described, that it is impossible to say with certainty, what it is. The 
act directs that the boundary line of Rappahannock shall begin "at the cor- 
ner of Madison and Culpeper counties upon the top of the Blue Ridge of 
mountains, and run thence iriih the line of said counties to the fohit where 
it is intersected by Hugh's (Hughes's) river, above the junction of Hugh's 
(Hughes's) and Hazel rivers; thence Avith Hugh's (Hughes's) river to the 
junction of the aforesaid rivers; thence to a bend in the river near a point 
called the Giant's Castle; thence to Horner's mill upon the Fauquier and 
Culpeper line;" and thence with the lines of the bordering counties to the 
beginning. Unluckily Hughes's river crosses the Madison line into what 
was formerly Culpeper, at the jiomt which seems to be indicated by the 
foregoing description, in the natural construction of the words; — flows some 
distance.beuds, and recrosses into Madison, — making a sort of insulated 
area between the river and the county line — and then some distance below 
crosses again into Culpeper, at a point still above the junction with the 
Hazel. In the natural construction of the language, Culpeper still retains 
jurisdiction over soil that is thus entirely detached from the body of the 
count}', and which for convenience sake ought to belong to Rappahannock. 
The commissioners for running and marking the county line have perform- 
ed their duty fully, as it seems to us, and yet have not touched this ques- 
tion; which will perhaps occasion some difficulty, in various ways, unless 
the assembly shall interpose to make it clearly a part of the one or the other 
county. 

Culpeper, in its original shape, comprehended all "the debateable 
ground" betweeen the Crown of England and Lord Fairfax, that lay on 
the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, and was formerly the subject of a very 
interesting controversy, that deserves still to be remembered for the expla- 
nation it affords of some things, which otherwise would be inexplicable. 
Charles the Second, while a fugitive from his kingdom, granted to Lord 
Hopton and others "all that entire tract of land, situated within the heads 
of the rivers Rappahannock and Quiriough or Potomac, the courses of the 
said rivers, as they are commonly called and known by the inhabitants and 
descriptions of those parts, and Chesapeake bay, together with the rivers 
themselves, and all the islands whhin the banks of them;" and on the 8th 
of May, 1669, after his restoration, and after that patent had been surren- 
dered, "in order that he might regrant the lands with alterations," — again 
granted the same tract of country to the Earl of St. Albans and others. — 
These afterwards sold their right to Lord Culpeper; and James the Second, 
in the fourth year of his reign, but after he had in fact ceased to reign, cori- 
firmed the patents, and granted the same tract to the Lord Culpeper, his 
heirs and assigns, forever. Such was the origin of the proprietary title to the 
Northern Neck of Virginia:— but if any doubt as to its validity could have 
existed, it was entirely removed, not only by universal acquiescence during 
the colonial government, but by solemn decisions of the highest judicial 
tribunal in the commonwealth after the estabiiEhment of an independent 
government here. From Lord Culpeper this magnificent estate descended 
to his heir, Lord Fairfax; who (or his descendant, with the same title of 
nobility) afterwards removed to Virginia, and made it his residence. As 
the proprietors of the Northern Neck thus owned, the land lying between 
the Rappahannock, from its head to the bay, on the one side, and the Poto- 
mac, from its head to the bav on the other,~and the Crown retained its title 



156 EASTERN VIRGINIA^CULPEPER. 

to all the lands not included within those limits or otherwise granted away, 
— it was perfectly clear, in the first settlements, — which commenced on the 
seaboard, — to whom the settlers Avere to apply for a title to their lands. 
Below the falls, the Rappahannock was a well defined natural boundary : 
and as the land happened to lie on the north or the south side of it, the title 
was to be derived from the Proprietary or the Crown. But where the set- 
tlements upon that river extended towards the mountains, it was discoA'ered 
that it was formed by the confluence, a short distance above the falls, and at 
the point which is now the extremity of Culpeper county to\\ards the sea, 
— of two streams so nearly equal in magnitude, that it might well be doubted 
which of them led to the "head" of the Rappahannock. The one formed 
of several tributaries that might well dispute among themselves the honor 
of being the main branch of that arm of the river, has its source at Ches- 
ter's Gap in the Blue Ridge, and in its whole course from thence to the 
point of the Great Fork of the Ixappahannock, (as it is called to distinguish 
it from the Little Fork, formed above by the junction of this stream with 
Aestham's river,) separates the present counties of Fauquier, and (to a very 
small extent) StafTord, on the north, from Rappahannock and Culpeper on 
the south. The other, formed in like manner, has its source at that point 
in the Blue Ridge where the four counties of Orange, Madison, Rocking- 
ham and Shenandoah meet ; and in its whole course from thence to its con- 
fluence w^ith the former, it separates the present counties of Orange, and 
(to a very small extent) Spottsylvania on the south, from Madison and Cul- 
peper on the north. If the latter were the main branch of the Rappahan- 
nock, and consequently tlte boundary of the proprietary tract, — grants of all 
the lands lying in what — from 1748 to 1793 — was Culpeper co. (and now 
makes the three counties of Culpeper, Madison and Rappahannock,) were 
to be obtained from the proprietors of the Northern Neck: if the former, 
then from the Crown. And by drawing one line on the map of the state, 
from Fairfax's store, at the head of the North Branch of the Potomac, on 
the Back Bone of the Alleghany mountains, between the counties of Hardy 
and Randolph, to the former, — and another from the same point to the lat- 
ter, (head of the Rappahannock,) it will be found that the title depended 
upon the same considerations, to a larger tract of country on the Avestern 
side of the Blue Ridge, than even these three counties on the eastern. 

As early as the year 1705, upon the presentation of a patent for lands 
lying within the limits of this debateable ground,- — to be signed by the pro- 
per agents of the royal government in this colony, — the agent for the pro- 
prietor of the Northern Neck objected to it — and thereupon an order of 
council was made, that neither the Crown or the proprietor should issue 
patents for such lands, until the dispute should be settled, and that commis- 
sioners mutually chosen should view the two branches of the Rappahan- 
nock, which we have before described. They were accordingly chosen, 
and reported that the streams appeared to be of equal magnitude : — and 
some other persons (styling themselves Wood's trustees,) by the reqviest of 
the proprietor's agent, certified the same thing. After tliis the colonial 
government seems to have treated the territory on the south side of the 
North Fork of the Rappahannock, rising at Chester's Gap, as belonging 
to the Crown: — for in 1720, an act of assembly was passed, creating the 
county of Spottsylvania, which, in declaring its boundaries, directed a line 
to be run over the high mountains to the river on the north west side there- 
of, thence down the said river until it comes againsi the head of Rappa- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 157 

hannock, thence to the head of Rappahannock river; and down that river 
to the mouth of Snow Creek. And in 1734, an act was passed /«r divid- 
ing Spottsylvania, which directed that all that territory of land adjoining 
to and above the dividing line tliereby established, bounded S. by the 
line of Hanover county, (as it was then called,) northerly by the grant of 
the Lord Fairfax, and westerly by the utmost limits of Virginia, should 
be "thenceforth created into one distinct county, and be called and known 
by the name of the county of Orange. In 1748, an act was passed for 
dividi?ig the county of Orange, which created the county of Culpeper; — 
and until the creation of Rappahannock in 1833, Culpeper always extended 
to that North Fork and to Chester's Gap; and in fact, in tracing the titles 
to land in the old county of Culpeper, it is found, that the patent, during this 
period, was usually granted in the name of the King — sometimes in the 
name of Lord Fairfax. In 1733 that lord obtained from the King instruc- 
tions to the colonial government to appoint commissioners to settle the dis- 
pute about the boundaries, and to issue no more patents for lands lying 
within the contested districts, until the dispute was ended ; but these instruc- 
tions were not communicated to the governor and council until 1730. In 
that year Lord Fairfax arrived in the colony with the instructions ; and in 
the course of that and the succeeding year, a survey, in pursuance of them, 
was made of the Northern Neck, by the commissioners, who, differing in 
opinion, made separate reports; which, in 1733, were referred to the com- 
mittee of the council (in England} for plantation affairs, upon whose report, 
the King, on the 1 1th of April 1745, determined that all the lands contained 
between the head springs of the Potomac and the south branch of the Rap- 
pahannock^ as we have before described it.) and the mouths of the 2 rivers, 
belonged to Lord Fairfax. In the meantime the commissioners had made 
their reports to the colonial government, which, -from the alarm thereby oc- 
casioned to the holders of lands within the imsettled limits, who had derived 
their titles from the Crown, produced remonstrances and counter petitions 
before the governor and council: — and they confirmed the survey and re- 
port, that were most favourable to Lord Fairfax, upon the terms, that he 
should establish all the grants that had been made by the Crown; to which 
effect an order was made by the Lord on the 21st of December 1738. The 
ro3''al order in council, already mentioned, also recited that Lord Fairfax 
had consented, and indeed proposed, " that all the grantees of lands under 
the Crown within the boundaries aforementioned, should quietly enjoy their 
lands according to their respective grants; and likewise to do and consent 
to all such acts as should be thought necessary to confirm and decree such 
grantees in the quiet possession of their said lands; and thereupon directed 
that the colonial government should not make any grants of lands within 
the said boundaries, or molest or disturb Lord Fairfax in the quiet posses- 
sion and enjoyment of the lands contained therein ; provided the said lands 
should be subject to the grants made of any parts thereof by his majesty, 
or any of his royal predecessors, and that the Lord Fairfax should comply 
with his proposal before mentioned. And in 1748, an act of assembly was 
passed which gave the form, and sanction and validity of laAV to this com- 
promise, as it might properly be called, — establishing the head spring of 
Rappahannock, commonly called Conway, as the proprietor's southern 
boundary, and confirming the thles of grantees from the Crown. At the 
same session the whole of the land, on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, 
which had been the subject of this important and protracted controversy, 



158 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 



was created into a separate and distinct county ; and it was named after Lord 
Culpeper, the ancestor of the then present proprietor. 

At the C H. of the county a town was established by an act passed in 
1759, which was called after the proprietor of the county himself, Fairfaoc, 
and has continued ever since to be the seat of justice for the county, by the 
same name. It was recently, by an act passed in 1834, incorporated; and 
at this time contains a C. H., jail, and clerk's office, on the public square, 
all handsome buildings, an episcopalian and a presbyterian church built of 
brick, and a masonic hall built of wood, with a large wooden meeting 
house in the immediate vicinity, belonging to the Baptist denomination: — 
its streets are broad and laid out in a rectangular form, and are well sup- 
plied with pumps. There are 3 taverns, besides some boarding houses, 9 
stores ; 1 watch maker and jeweller's shop, 2 saddlers, 4 shoe makers, 4 
tailors, and mantuamakers, 1 hatter, 3 blacksmiths, 2 carpenters and cabi- 
net makers, 1 considerable establishment for making wagons, &c. and 
another quite extensive for making coaches, carriages, &c. The Piedmont 
line of post coaches, passes through this place. It contains also 7 lawyer's 
offices, 3 doctor's shops, and a parsonage house, which the vestr}^ of the 
Episcopal church have purchased, and the ladies have nearly paid for, by 
that ingenious method of making much out of little, which has been latterly 
practised with such general success — a fair. There are in the immediate 
vicinity of the town 3 schools, all on private foundations, and 1 market 
house, also on private foundation; — 2 respectable tanyards are kept up in 
sight of the town. There is a printing e.stablisliment, from which issues a 
weekly paper, under the title of the Culpeper Gazette; and another very 
recently established, that sends forth weekly. The Messenger. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICE, &c. 



Amissville, p. O. 121 ms. from'ms. from Fairfax, and 10 from 

R., and 69 from W. Woodville, in Rappahannock. It 

Colvin's Tavern, P. O. 90 ms. contains a tavern, store, and black- 



from R., and 80 from W. 

FAIRFAX, P. O. a?id seat of Jus- 
tice, 88 ms. N. W. of Fredericks- 
burg, 76 S. W. of W. and 94 from R., 
in lat. 38° 26', long. 1. 04', W. of C. 



smith shop. 

Jeffersoxton, p. V. 109 m's 
from R., and Gl S. S. W. of W., situ- 
ated near the right branch of the Rap- 
pahannock, in the N. E. angle of the 



County Courts are held on the 2/1':? county, and on the Piedmont stage 
Monday in every month: — Quarterlj/lvoute from Washington to Milledge- 
in March, Mat/, August and Noi^e?}i-\\i\\e, Georgia. The town is built on 
ber. Judge Field holds his Circuit one street, and contains 43 dwellinsr 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 2rd of June and Ath of Novem- 
ber. [See above, on this page.] 



houses, 1 Baptist house of worship, 1 
Female association, for the purpose 
of educating young men for the min- 



Grantley's p. (J. 116 ms. from istr}', 1 Elementary school with 50 
R., and 59 ms. S. of W. scholars: also, 3 mercantile stores, 3 

Griffinsburg, P. O. 103 ms. from taverns, 1 tanyard, 1 hat manufactory, 



R., and 85 ms. S. W. of W., situated 
on the main road leading from Thorn- 
ton's Gap in the Blue Ridge, to 
Fredericksburg, 18 ms. from the 



3 boot and shoe factories, a wagon 
maker, carriage maker, and 3 house 
carpenters. Population 300; of whom 
2 are physicians. Lce^s Sulphur 



former, and 50 ms. from thr^ latter, ? Sprijigs, a place of considerable resort 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CUMBERLAND. 



159 



in summer, are only 2^ ms. from Jef-| 
fersonton. 

Locust Dale, P. O. 86 ms. from 
R., and 86 ms. S. S. W. of W. 

Midway, P. O. 95 ms. from R., 
and 68 S. S. W. of W. 

RicHARDSviLLE, formerly SmitK s 
Tavern, P. O. 95 ms. from R., and 
71 S. W. of W., situated on the stage! 
road from Fredericksburg to Fairfax, 
18 ms. distant from each; in the gold 
region and near some of the best mines 
yet discovered in Virginia. 

Racoon Ford, P. O., situated im- 
mediately on the banks of Rapid Ann, 
15 ms. by water above its confluence 
with the Rappahannock, 30 W. of 
Fredericksburg, 15 N. E. of Orange 
C. H., and 10 S. E. of Fairfax. It 
contains 8 dwelling houses, a mer- 
cantile store, house of entertainment, 
merchant znill, grist mill, saw and 
shingle mill, wool carding machine 
and cotton gin, boot and shoe factory, 
a tailor, blacksmith, wagon maker, 
and carriage maker. Population 35 
whites, and 45 blacks. Total 80. 

Rexeville, p. O- 101 ms. from R. 
and 79 S. W. by W. of W., situated 
handsomely on a healthy, and high 
position, in the midst of a fertile coun- 
try, on 1 of the north branches of the 
Rappahannock, and immediately on 
the stage road, which leads from 
Washington to Charlottesville, 60 
ms. trom the latter. It contains 12 
dwelling houses, a mercantile store, 
new house of entertainment, tanyard, 
shoe factory, cooper's shop, Avheel- 
wright, Hacksmith ; and has a school 
in the neighbourhood. This little 
village is rapidly improving, the vi- 
cmity being occupied by wealthy and 
industrious farmers. 



Rock Mills, P. O, 113 ms. from 
R., and 75 S. W. of W. 

Stevensburg, p. V. in the south- 
ern part of the county, 95 ms. from R. 
and 83 ms. S. W. of W. — beautifully 
situated between the Rapid Ann, and 
Rappahannock river, on the stage 
road from Fairfax to Fredericksburg, 
7 ms. distant from the former, and 30 
from the latter. It contains 20 dwel- 
ling houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 
1 house ot worship, free for all de- 
nominations. Population 150 per- 
sons ; of whom 2 are physicians. This 
place was formerly much resorted to 
by inhabitants of the lower counties 
during the sickly seasons. 

Thornton's Gap, P. O. 120 ms. 
N. W. of R., and 102 ms. N. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the western part 
of the county in the gap of the Blue 
Ridge. 

Thompsonville, p. O. 104 ms. 
from R., and 75 S. W. by W. of W. 
It contains 7'dwelling houses, 2 houses 
of worship, 1 Baptist, and 1 free for 
all denominations, 3 mercantile stores, 
and 2 blacksmith's shops ; there are 
3 merchant mills in the vicinity. Pop- 
ulation 70. There is a benevolent 
society, Vv^hich holds its meetings at 
this place. 

Waylandsburg, p. V. 102 ms, 
from R. and 84 S. W. of W., situated 
on Crooked Run, which separates 
Madison from Culpeper, near the 
road between Fairfax and Orange C. 
H., 8 ms. W. of the former, 74 from 
the latter, and 8 N. E. of Madison C. 
H. It contains 18 houses, I of which 
is a merchant mill with 4 pair of stones, 
and 1 a saw mill. Population 13. 



CUMBERLAND, 



Cumberland was created by the House of Burgess's in 1748, from a part 
of Goochland. It is bounded N. by James river, which separates it from 
Fluvanna, and Goochland, E. by Powhatan, S. E. and S. by the Appomat' 



160 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— CUMBERRLAND. 



tox which separates it from Amelia, and Prince Edward, and W. bj'- Buck- 
ingham. Length 32 ms., mean brtaJth 10, and area 323 sq. ms. extending- 
in lat. from 37° 12' to 37° 39' N. and long, from 1° 13' to 1° 40' W. of 
W. C. The slope of this county is N. E., and the central part is drained 
by Willises river, which empties into the James, a few miles above Carters- 
ville. This stream is navigable by boats to Curdsville, a small town in 
Buckingham: (See Buckingham.) This county is also watered by 4 
creeks, which rise in the upper part within 3 or 4 miles of each other, near 
Rains' tavern. Bear hrcuich empties into Willis's river. Great Guinea 
after running about 20 miles in the county empties into the Appomattox. 
Angle creek about 12 miles long, and Green creek, about 3; both of which 
afford much fertile bottom lands; — and Little Gu7iea, all flow into the Ap- 
pomattox. The A'ppomattox waters, and bounds the southern part of the 
county from Powhatan to Buckingham, about 30 miles, and the James 
river on the north, by making a considerable bend, bounds and waters 
about the same distance. 

The surface is undulating, and the soil productive. The staples are in- 
dian corn, wheat and tobacco. The latter has been considered the princi- 
pal article, but of late the farmers have turned their attention more to the 
cultivation of wheat; by which the lands have much improved, and the im- 
provement is still progressing. 

Iron and coal have recently been discovered, on the Appomattox, near 
Farmville. The prevailing religious sects, are Presbyterians, Baptists, and 
Methodists: — there are 10 houses of public worship, and 4 resident min- 
isters: — there are 4 flour manufacturing, and a number of gristmills in the 
county. Population 1820, 11,023—1830, 11,690. Cumberland belongs 
tolheSthjudicial circuit, and 4th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2,881 80,in 
'34, on lots, $59 13— land, $1,458 19—3850 slaves, $962 50—2,161 horses, 
$129 66— 7 studs, $134— 50 coaches, $123 15—34 carryalls, $46 55— 
107 gigs, $68 70. Total $2,985 88. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $376 73— in 1834, $196 38. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. 



Ca Ira, P. V. in the W. part of 
5the county, 72 ms. S. W. of R., and 
i48 from W., situated 45 ms. E. N. 
E. of Lynchburg, on the N. side of 
Willis's river,5 ms.W. oi Cumberlayul 
€. H., 16 N. E. of Farmville, and 18 
jns.from Buckingham C.H. surround- 
ed by a fertile country. Willis's ri- 
ver is navigable to Curdsville, in 
Buckingham, 12 ms. above this place, 
■and 60 ms. from its mouth. Ca Ira 
■contains about 40 dwelling houses, 3 
mercantile stores — selling $40 000 
■worth of goods annually, a merchant 
mill, which grinds from 28 to 30,000 
bushels of Avheal in the grinding sea- 
son, a tobacco warehouse, at which 
from 3 to 500 hog&heads cf tobacco 



are annually received, a house of wor- 
ship free for all denominations, 2 ta- 
verns, and a masonic hall: — there are 
also among the mechanics, 2 tailors, 
2 wheelwrights, 2 blacksmiths, and 2 
plough manufacturers. 

This village was until lately un- 
healthy, and nearly depulated upon 
two different occasion: this was attri- 
buted to the pond attached to the man- 
ufacturing mill, which covered 200 
acres of ground, and nearly sur- 
rounded the village, and produced 
very severe bilious attacks. The 
dam has now been removed 2 ms. up 
the stream, and the Avater brought 
down by a navigable canal : the old 
pond has been filled up, and its site 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. 



161 



cultivated, which yields immense 
crops to the owners ; and health is re- 
stored to the village. Population 210. 
Three mails a week are received. 

Cartersville, p. V. on the right 
bank of James river, 47 ms. W. of R. 
and 122 from W., situated in a fertile 
and healthy country. It contains 50 
dwelling houses, 1 house of worship 
free for all denominations, a common 
school, a merchant mill, which grinds 
from 20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat 
annually, 5 mercantile stores, 3 gro- 
ceries, 2 builders of thrashing ma- 
chines, 2 tanyards, 1 saddler and 
many other mechanics, such as wheel- 
wrights, plough makers, blacksmiths, 
shoe makers, &c. Considerable trade 
is carried on in wheat and other pro- 
duce of the surrounding country. — 
Population 300 souls; of whom 1 is 
an attorney, and 2 physicians. 

CUMBERLAND, C. II. P. V. 
55 ms. from R., and 140 from W. 
situated on a high and healthy ridge 
between Willis's river and the Appo- 
mattox; commanding a beautiful view 
of the Blue Ridge. It contains be- 
sides the county buildings, 5 dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 2 taverns, 
a saddler, boot and shoe factory, tai- 
lor, and various other mechanics. 
There is a house of worship in the 



vicinity, free for all denominations. 
The surrounding county is tolerably 
fertile, producing corn, wheat, oats, 
tobacco, &c. Population 30 whites 
and 60 blacks. Total 90. 

County Courts are held on the ith 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in February, May, July, and October. 
Judge Daniel, holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery, 
on the \st of April and September. 

Langhorn's Tavern, P. O. 61 
ms. W. of R., and 146 from W. 

Raines', P. O. 69 ms. W. of R., 
and 154 from W. 

Stoney Point Mills, P. O. in 
the southern part of the county, 61 
ms. S. W. by W. of R., and 146 from 
W., situated on the Appomattox river, 
60 ms. above Petersburg, 16 ms. below 
Farmville. and 5 ms. S. of Cumber- 
land C. H. It contains 20 houses, 1 
large manufacturing mill, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, a wheelwright, blacksmith, 
cooper, and tailor Tobacco of as 
good quality as any in Virginia, is 
raised in this neighbourhood. The 
soil is susceptible of high improve- 
ment. The water power is sufficient 
for machinery of any extent. Popu- 
lation 90 persons; 1 of whom is a 
physic iaiL 



DINWIDDIE. 

DiNwiDDiE was created by the Legislature in 1752, from a part of 
Prince George. It is bounded E. by Prince George, — S. E. by Sussex, — 
S. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Brunswick, — W. by Notto- 
way, — and N. W. by Amelia. Dinwiddie is in form a hexagon, with a 
diameter of about 28 miles; — area about 616 sq. miles. It is divided near- 
ly into equal parts by the parallel of 37° N. lat. — its long, lies between 0° 
33' and 1° 3' W. of W. C. The northern part of the county, about one- 
fourth of the whole, slopes north and is drained by the Appomattox. The 
remainder inclines S. E. is drained by Monks Creek, Stoney, Sapony, and 
other tributaries of Nottoway river. — The surface is undulating. — Popu- 
lation in 1820, 13,792 — in 1830, 21,801. Dinwiddie belongs to the second 
judicial circuit, and first district. Taxes paid in 1833, $6538, 50 — in 
1834, on lots, $2736 59— land, $1863 68—5962 slaves, $1496 50—2673 
horses, $160 38— 7 studs, $258 00— 134 coaches, $348 25— 49 carryalls, 
21 



162 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DIN WIDDIE. 



$49 55 — 233 gigs, $135 83. Total, $7042 78 Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $412 94 ; in 1833, $217 68. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



DINWIDDIE C. H. &c P. O. sit-i 

uated on Stoney Creek, 15 ms. S. W. 
of Peterburg, 40 from R. and 162 
from W. Counts/ courts are held on 
the third Monday in every month. 
Quarterly, March, May, August and 
November. Judge May holds his 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on 1st April and September. 

GooDAVVNsviLLE, P. O. 47 m's. 
S. S. W. of R. and 169 from W. 

Harrisville, or Wyoming, 54 
m's S. of R. and 176 from W., situat- 
ed in the S. E. corner of the county, 
near Nottoway river, on the main 
southern stage road. It contains a 
mercantile store, blacksmith shop, 
and wheelwright. In the A'icinity 
there are 2 extensive manufacturing 
mills; and the surrounding country 
is very thickly settled. 

PETERSBURG, Port of Entry, 
and P. O. 22 miles S. of R. and 
144 S. S. W. of W. lat. 37° 13' and 
long. 24° W. of W. C: situated on 
the right or southern bank of Appo- 
mattox river — 12 ms. above its junc- 
tion with James river in the northern 
angle of the countj^ where it joins 
Prince George and Chesterfield ; so 
that a part of the town is in each of 
those counties. This depot is well 
situated to sustain a high commercial 
rank amongst the ports of Virginia. 
The harbor admits vessels of consi- 
derable draught, and the adjacent 
country is well peopled and cultivated. 
The falls of Appomattox near which 
the city stands, aflbrds an illimitable 
water power, whilst a canal obviates 
the impediment to navigation. Pre- 
vious to the year 1815 the buildings 
were nearly all of wood, but in the 
summer of that year nearly all those 
situated on the most commercial 
streets were consumed by fire. Since 
that event the town lias been rebuilt 



with neat and substantial brick houses 
and, in value as well as appearance, 
is very much improved. The num- 
ber of houses besides the county 
buildings, which are-handsome, may 
be estimated at about 800. There 
are 7 houses of public worship, be- 
longing to Episcopalians, Methodists, 
Baptists and Presbyterians, — a Ma- 
sonic Hall, female orphan asylum, se- 
veral common schools and one free 
school ; the latter is on the Lancastc- 
rian plan and Avas endowed principal- 
ly by a legacy left to the town, for 
that purpose by a benevolent indivi- 
dual, (David Anderson,) and is 
called the "Anderson Seminary.'''' 
There are six tobacco factories, six 
manufacturing flour mills, 1 brass and 
cast-iron foundry, 2 earthen-ware pot- 
teries, 2 cotton-seed-oil mills, numer- 
ous mercantile stores, and 4 druggist 
shops. The principal mechanical 
pursuits are — 2 printing offices, by 
which 2 weekly papers are issued, 
and considerable book-work-printing 
done, 4 carriage manufacturies, 5 
wheehvrights, 4 cabinet makers, 3 
jersey Avagon makers, 3 brick mold- 
ers, 1 stone cutter and mill stone 
maker, 2 tanneries, 5 saddlers, 15 
blacksmiths, 4 coppersmiths and tin- 
plate Avorkers, 3 jeAvellers and Avatch 
makers, and many house carpenters, 
tailors, hatters, milleners, and mantua 
makers. Petersburg is noAv rapidly 
increasing in business in consequence 
of its Rail Road, to the Roanoke 
irer, Avhich is about sixty miles long, 
and aflbrds an opening by which 
largequantitiesof produce are brought 
to this market from the upper Roan- 
oke and from the interior of North 
Carolina, and by Avhich goods are 
with much facility returned in ex- 
change, as the cflrs run daily to the 
Roanoke and back a<rain. The "rade 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. 



163 



of the road, with the exception of two 
or three planes, with an ascent of 
twenty-seven or thirty feet per mile, 
is very favorable to the use of the 
locomotive engine ; and their success 
with this kind of power has not been 
surpassed in the country. They have 
now three engines upon the road, a 
part of which have been at work up- 
wards of nine months, and made their 
trips with as much regularity as could 
have been expected from horse pow- 
er. One of those, the "Liverpool," 
is probably, for her weight, the most 
effective engine of the country. This, 
and one of the other engines on this 
road, wore constructed by M. Burry, 
of Liverpool, who has also furnished 
two engines for one of the Schuylkill 
rail roads, which we are informed work 
equally well. The proprietors of 
this road consider it as part of the 
great line of communication from 
eiorth to south, and look to its ultimate 
connexion with the Charleston rail 
road, by similar works through North 
Carolina. Another channel by 
which much produce is brought to 
this market, is the Upper Appo- 
mottox Canal, — through" which there 
is a constaiitly increasing trade. 
To this market there have been 
brought in one year 40,000 bales of 
cotton, 5,000 hogsheads of tobacco, 
and more than 100,000 bushels of 
wheat, besides many other articles. 

Petersburg is also much indebted 
for her pro.sperity to her cotton fac- 
tories ; of which at present, there are 
three: — ^he first established was that 
of the Petersburg Manvfacturing 
Company, in the year 1828. This 
factory commenced spinning in the 
fall of that year with 500 spindles, 
and the number Avas gradually in- 
creased, until it noAV runs 2500, which 
daily spin about 1200 pounds of yarn, 
or three hundred and sixti/ thousand 
pounds per annum. This yarn is 
made of the best cotton brought to 
the market, and the most of it is sold 
in yarn itself without further manu- 



fticture; some part of it is woven at 
the factory into a heavy cotton cloth 
called "oznaburgs," and is stamped 
" Virginia cloth," in consequence of 
the likeness between this and the cot- 
ton cloth formerly so well known in 
this state by that name. This facto- 
ry gives employment to none but 
white persons, and has constantly 
employed about 110 operatives, who 
are mostly young girls, of good char- 
acter and industrious habits, who re- 
ceive in weekly wages about ^Ai/-^ee;i 
thousand dollars per annum. — The 
Merchants' Manufacturing Compa- 
ny has two factories, one of which is 
on a small scale, and has for some 
years been in operation, the other re- 
cently erected, has but lately begun 
to spin ; it has a commodious house 
well planned, and runs 3500 spindles 
and a number of looms capable of 
weaving from 1500 to 2000 yards of 
cotton cloth per day and employs 
about 200 operatives. It is in con- 
templation to erect, ere long, two other 
cotton factories, on a large scale, and 
as the water power here is great, the 
raw material plenty, and operatives 
readily procured, it is probable that 
at no distant da}-, Petersburg will be 
a considerable manufacturing town. 
— From the town, a considerable for- 
eign trade is carried on with Eng- 
land, France, Holland, and Germany, 
and goods of all descriptions are here 
plenty and cheap. Large ships load 
at City Point. The navigation from 
City Point to this place until lately 
was bad, aflording not more than four 
feet water — but within a few years 
works have been completed on the 
river, which have deepened it to 
about seven feet. — At one time this 
town Avas considered unhealthy, but 
bj- draining and filling up marshes, 
and by other improvements, it has 
now become as salubrious as any part 
of lower Virginia ; and has the char- 
acter of being hospitable and patri- 
otic ; and a very delightful place of 
residence. The Bank of Virginia 



164 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. 



and Farmers' Bank of Virginia have 
each a branch at this place. It pos- 
sesses also an insurance office, and 
custom house. Population 1830, 
8,322. Corporation courts are held 
on the third Monday in every month ; 
Quarterly in March, May, August 
and November. Judge May holds 
his Circuit Superior Court of Law 
and Chancery on the first of Aprit 
SLXid^September. 



Poplar Grove, P. O. 39 ms. S. 
of R. and 161 from W. 

RicHiEviLLE, P.O. 62 ms. S. of R. 
and 164 from W. 

Safpony Creek, Cross Roads, 
and P. O. 44 ms. from R. and 166 
from W. In the southern part of the 
county, 22 ms. S. S. W. of Peters- 
burg. The creek is a branch of Sto- 
ney Creek, and the latter of Notto- 
way river. 



ELIZABETH CITY. 

Elizabeth City was one of the eight original shires into which Vir- 
ginia was divided in 1634. — It is bounded E. by the Chesapeake, S. by 
Hampton Roads, N. by Back river, which separates it from York, and W. 
by Warwick. — Its form is nearly that of a square, about 18 miles on each 
side; — area 64 square miles. It extends from 37° 02' to 37° 08' N. lat. 
and from 0° 37' to 0° 47' E. of W. C. Population, 1820, 3,789—1830, 
5,053. — It belongs to the 3d judicial circuit, and 2nd district. Taxes paid 
in 1833, $794 24— in 1834, on lots, $184 62— on land, $316 63—912 
slaves, $228 00—408 horses, $24 43—3 studs, $71 00— 7 coaches, $16 
00—49 carryalls, $49 55—233 gigs, $135 83. Total, $7042 78. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, $45 39 — in 1834, no report. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



HAMPTON, P. V. and coujity 
seat, 96 ms. from R. and 199 S. E. of 
W. Hampton is a sea port, situated 
on Hampton Roads, 2^ miles from 
Fortress Monroe, 18 from Norfolk, 24 
from York Town, and 36 from Wil- 
liamsburg. — It contains about 130 
houses; 2 Methodist, 1 Baptist, and 1 
Episcopalian meeting house, 1 Aca- 
demy and 1 private school, 6 dry good 
stores, 10 grocery stores, 2 taverns, 3 
castor oil manufactories, (2 in town 
and 1 adjacent.) The principal me- 
chanical pursuits are, shoe making, 
blacksmiths' work, house-carpentry, 
and ship-building. Hampton has for 
some time been declining: — There is 
no commerce or inland trade to sup- 
port it. Hampton is the place of re- 
sidence for nearly all the pilots for 
James river, and the neighborhood of 
Norfolk; and when trade was brisk, 
they circulated nearly all the proceeds 



of their labor in their own town ; but 
the Fortifications at Old Point Com- 
fort, and the Rip Raps, have been for 
some time past the principal source of 
revenue to the inhabitants both of the 
town and county, by the wages given 
for negro laborers. Hampton is as 
healthy as any town in lower Virgi- 
nia. Population in 1830, 1120.— 
There are 2 attorneys, and 4 physi- 
cians. 

Comity Courts are held on the ith 
Thursday in every month; — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
Noi^ember. 

Judge Upshur holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 24/;A of April and \9th of Sep- 
tember. 

Old Point Comfort, or For- 
tress Monroe, cape and P. O. 13 
ms. in a direct line a little W. of N. 
Norfolk, 3 ms. S. E. of Hampton, the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ELIZABETH CITY. 



165 



county seat, and 202 ms. S. S. E. of 
W. C. The promontory, particular- 
ly called Old Point Comfort, is almost 
exactly on lat. 37°, and with the op- 
posing point, Willioughby, on the 
right shore, forms the real mouth of 
James river, the intervening strait se- 
parating Lynhaven bay from Hamp- 
ton Roads. 

The channel Avhich leads in from 
the Capes of Virginia to Hampton 
Roads, is, at Old Point Comfort, re- 
duced to a very narrow line. The 
shoal water, which, under the action 
of the sea, and reacted upon by the bar, 
is kept in an unremitting ripple, has 
given the name of Rip Raps to this 
place. When the bar is passed, Hamp- 
ton Roads, which extend to Norfolk, 
about eighteen miles distant, into 
which James river, Elizabeth river, 
and Nansemond Mouth empty, afford 
the finest anchorange in the world, 
and in them its navies might ride with 
j>erfect safety. With a view of mak- 
ing this a secure retreat for ships of 
war and for our commerce, in any fu- 
ture contest with a naval power|Fort 
Monroe was built on the point, on the 
right side of the channel at the en- 
trance of the Roads — and the castle 
of the Rip Raps is directly opposite 
the point, at the distance of about 1900 
yards. The two forts will complete- 
ly command the chan»el, and it will 
be impossible for a single ship of war 
to pass without the permission of the 
power holding the fortresses. They 
are so constructed as [to present im- 
mense batteries of cannon upon an 
approaching ship, from the moment 
she comes in reach, from the Capes, 
and throughout all the bendings of 
the channel it must still be under the 
power of the cannon: for the forts 
present a new aspect at every turn, 
and in all probability the interdicted 
ship would be a wreck, or a confla- 
gration, from the hot shot thrown into 
her, before she completed half the cir- 
cuit of the channel. 

There is much salutary experience. 



bought however dearly, in the lessons 
of the late war. These waters were 
then the resort of the British fleets, 
and while all American vessels were 
either driven from their own harbors, 
or captured, the enemy made himself 
at home here — sent detachments to 
Baltimore and Washington — ravaged 
the shores of the Chesapeake — burnt 
our Capitol and Navy Yards, and 
laid the whole country under contri- 
bution: The erection of the two 
Forts at this central point of our sea- 
board, gives us a refuge to our naval 
force, if driven in by superior num- 
bers, and will, in effect, not only oc- 
clude Hampton Roads to the enemy, 
and shut him out from James river 
and Norfolk, our naval depot, but 
must deter him ever venturing up the 
Chesapeake bay. If such an attempt 
were made, the first calm would put 
the most powerful fleet of an enemy 
completely at the mercy of a few steam 
frigates or steam batteries, which, by 
means of their self-moving power, 
would be enabled to take such posi- 
tion as suited them, and to set fire to 
the ships of the enemy with hot shot, 
or cut them off in detail. The shel- 
ter of these forts, too,, would enable a 
few ships, lying in security under their 
guns, to sally out and take advantage 
of any storm Avhich might separate a 
blockading force, exposed to the acci- 
dents of an open sea. 

These circumstances give great im- 
portance to the Avorks which are to 
form the gates at Hampton Roads — 
and, as a consequence, in a great de- 
gree to the Avhole Chesapeake bay. 
Fort Monroe is already finished, and 
is at this moment in admirable condi- 
tion, if its armaments were completed. 

The Rip Raps structure, is a mon- 
ument, worthy of the people who have 
lavished their means in its erection, 
and of the genius of the engineers by 
whom it was planned. The area of 
the structure, as originally staked ofT 
includes five acres; a great part of 
which was 22 feet below the surface. 



IGG 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ELIZABETH CITY. 



of the sea, and that nearest the surface 
18 feet. To get a foundation above 
water for the Fort or Castle, an Island 
has been raised, by throwing rocks 
into the water, until, by gradual ac- 
cumulation, it has emerged above the 
tides. The rock of which this Island 
is formed, has been brought from great 
distances, and at a vast expense. 

After a foundation was obtained for 
the Castle above high water, the biiild- 
ing of the Castle was begun, and car- 
ried up so as to form the first embra 
sures. It was found that the settling 
of the artificial mound of stone crack 
ed the walls. The building was, 
therefore, discontinued; but immense 
masses of granite have since been 
brought and lodged upon the lines of 
the work, that the weight of the ma- 
terial, might be employed in consoli- 
dating its foundations. For some 
years this marine pyramid sunk be- 
tween six and eight inches; during 
the last year but one, although press- 
ed with the weight of all the material 
gathered for the superstructure, it set- 
tled about three inches. 

The present aspect of the place is 
rough and savage, and when the surge 
rushes in among the hollow piles of 
granite, and the wind whistles among 
the naked spars, which are planted 
round the walls for the support of the 
scaffolding, the music of the surround- 
ing elements of sea and air, is quite 
in keeping with the dreary, desolate 
spot, which, at a distance, looks like 
a Gibralter, beaten down by cannon- 
ade, and fallen prostrate in the sea. 

Nothing could add more to the 
grandeur, of what has been justly 
called the American Mediterranean, 
than the elevation of the Castle at 
Rip Raps — the rising of this giant of 
the flood, from the waves, as contem- 
plated by Commodore Warrcnton, 
Commodore Elliot, General Armis- 
tead, General Bernard, General Swiftj 



and Major McRee, the commissioners 
and engineers, in whose design the 
work originated. The ancients tell 
us that Venus rose from the sea, but 
it would seem a much fitter element, 
to give birth to the god of war; and 
never was there a nobler scene, or 
nobler temple, than that appropriated 
for his cradle, by the American peo- 
ple at the Rip Raps. He will appear 
here, not like the goddess of love, 
borne in a shell upon a summer's sea, 
but upon a tower of strength amidst 
the noise of restless surges, — a fit 
emblem of the American people, 
whose martial strength belongs alike 
to the land and to the ocean. 

It is a circumstance worth notice, 
that the material for the structure of 
the Castle of the Rip Raps is drawn 
from most of the commercial states of 
the Union. In walking over the piles 
you behold the dai'k grey granite of 
Maine — the whitish blue and the black 
speckled granite of T*onnecticut — the 
red free stone of the same state — the 
pied granite of the Susquehannah — 
the deep blue of the Little Falls of 
Potomac — and the ash colored of the 
James river. 

In this edifice, which is to form a 
strong hold in a central position— de- 
fend our great naval depot, and to pro- 
tect our naval power over the ocean; 
and especially to aflbrd a. place of re- 
fuge to the commerce of the nation, 
each commercial state may point to a 
portion of the blended strength which 
it has contributed to the common 
structure. The castle, at the Rip 
Raps, should then be called, as well 
from its use, as from its origin, the 
Castle of the Federal Union — and 
when attacked by foreign or domestic 
assailants, it should run up with 
the ensign of "the Federal Union," 
the watch word "j/ mist be ^jr^serr- 
ed:' 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ESSEX. 



167 



Essex was created by the Legislature in 1692, from a part of (Old) 
Rappahannock Co. It is bounded E. by the Rappahannock river, which 
separates it from Richmond, — S. E. by Middlesex, — S. and S. W. by King 
and Q,ueen, — W. and N. W. by Caroline, — and N. by the Rappahannock, 
which divides it from King George and Westmoreland. Length 28 miles, 
mean breadth 10, and area 280 sq. miles. Lat. 38° intersects the meridian of 
Washington, about one-third of the length of the county from its northern 
extremity. Surface in the western part moderately hilly, and soil general- 
ly sandy and barren except on the rivers and creeks. Population 1820, 
9,999—1830, 10,-53 1. Essex belongs to the fourth judicial circuit, and 
second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2452 26— in 1834 on lots, $55 10 
—land, $1124 96—3235 slaves, $808 75—1476 horses, $88 56— studs, 
$118 00—38 coaches $101 75—1 stage $3— 21 caryalls, $24 10—178 
gigs, $99 15. Total $2996 18. Expended in education of poor children 
in 1834, $183 72— in 1833, $300 74. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bowers, P. O. 62 ms. N. E. by N. 
E. of R. and 121 from W. in the lat 
southeastern part of the county. 

DuNNsviLLE, P. O. 56 ms. S. E. 
from R. and 115 from W. 

LoRETTo, p. V. 69 ms. N. E. from 



E. of R. and 109 S. E. of W. 

37° 58' N.; long 11° 10' E. W. 
C. The situation is low and flat, but 
as there is not much marsh land in 
the neighborhood, it is not very sick- 
ly. It was formerly a place of con- 



R. and 92 from W. situated on thejsiderable trade, as large ^-essels can 
mail route from Tappahan7iock\.o¥\:e- ascend some distance above it, but 
dericksburg, about 40 miles fromtheilike most of the villages on tide wa- 
latter and 20 from the former ; and a ter in Virginia it is not increasing, 



mile from the Rappahannock river. 
It contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 



because the business formerly trans- 
acted by them directly with foreign 



Episcopal church, 2 mercantile stores, 'countries, is now transacted through 
a tavern, shoemaker, blacksmith, tai- the medium of the cities. It is about 
lor, bricklayer, painter, and several;50 miles from the open Chesapeake 
bourse carpenters. Population 50jbay. It contains 29 dwelling houses, 
persons, of whom one is a physician. '4 mercantile stores, 2 druggists, one 

Lloyds, P. O. 62 ms. from R. andihouse of worship free for all denomi- 
97 from W. nations, 2 hotels, a female seminary 

Miller's Tavern, P. O. 40 ms.'of the, first order, which has been es- 
from R. and 119 S. of W. itablished 15 years, and received an 

Montague, P. V. 67 ms. S. E. byjunusual share of public favor ; in this 
E. from R. and 126 from W. Ajall the usual female accomplishments 
small village in the southern part ofare taught, whilst every attention is 
the county, on the stage road from paid to the moral and religious duties 
Tappahannock, to Urbanna, and 2'of the pupils, by the pious and ac- 



ms from the Rappahannock river. 
Population 50 ; of whom one is an 
attorney, and one a physician. 

TAPPAHANNOCK, P. V. and 



complished lady who presides over 
the establishment. — The mechanics 
are, a jeweller, milliner and mantua 
makei-, 2 tailors, a saddle and harness 



seat of justice ; situated on the rightimaker, a coach maker, and 2 boot and 
bank of the Rappahannock, 50 miiesjshoe makers. — There is a Ferry 



168 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 



across the Rappahannock at this point, vin March,, May, August and NovcM'- 



Population 1830, 280. Three attor- 
neys, and five physicians reside here. 
County courts are held on the third 
-Monday in every month : Quartirly 



Judge Brown holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery, on the ith of May and 
October^ 



FAIRFAX. 

t^AlRFAX was created by the Legislature in 1742, frotn apart of Prince 
William. It is bounded E. partly by the Potomac river, which separates it 
from Prince George's Co., of Maryland, and partly by the District of Co- 
lumbia, — S. by the Potomac and Occoquan river, which separates it from 
Prince William, — W. by Loudoun, — and N. by the Potomac, separating 
it from Montgomery Co. Maryland. Length from S. E. to N. W. 25 ms. 
mean breadth 180 — area 450 square iniles ; it extends in lat. from 35° 36' 
to 39° 03' N. and in long, from 0° 03' to 0° 33' W. of W. C. The sur- 
face is hilly and broken ; the soil is in some places good, but much of it 
is sterile. Population 1820, 11,404 ; in 1830, 9,204. Fairfax belongs to 
the 6th judicial circuit and 3d district. Taxes paid in 1833, $3070 00 — • 
in 1834 on lots, $56 72— land, $2144 63—1896 slaves, 474 00—2618 
horses, $157 08—6 studs, $35 00—44 coaches, $90 00—31 caryalls, 
$31 00— 12 gigs, $*7 75. Total, 2996 18. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $435 50— in 1833, $440 70. 

•towns, villages, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Centreville, p. V. in the wes- 
tern part of the county, 143 ms. from 
R., and 27 S. W. of W. This village 
is situated on the Fauquier, and Alex- 
andria turnpike road, about 6 ms. from 
ihe line dividing the counties of Lou- 
doun, and Prince William. It derives 
its name from itscentral position, being 
about equi-distant from Leesburg, 
Middleburg, Warrenton, Washington, 
Georgetown and Alexandria. Its situ- 
ation is elevated and highly pictu- 
resque,affording one of the best moun- 
tain prospects in the state of Virginia. 
It has always been remarkable for the 
salubrity of its air, and the health of its 
inhabitants. It contains 30 dwelling 
houses, 1 Methodist meeting house, 2 
taverns, 3 mercantile stores, 1 com- 
mon school, and a well organized 
Sunday school. The mechanics are 
2 tanners, 1 saddler, 4 boot and shoe 
manufacturer,?, 1 wheelwright, 2 black- 
smiths, 1 cabinet maker, 2 house car- 



penters, and 1 tailor. For some time 
past this village has been declining ; 
but the spirit of industry and enter- 
prize at present manifested by its in- 
habitants, justifies the hope of a more 
favourable state of things. Population 
220 ; of whom 2 are attorneys, and 3 
physicians. 

Dronesville, p. O. 140 ms. from 
R., and 17 from W. 

FAIRFAX C. II. P. O. 1 40 ms. 
from R., and 28 ms. S. W. by W. of 
W. It contains besides the ordinary 
county buildings, 50 dAvelling houses, 
for the most part frame buildings, 3 
mercantile stores, 4 taverns, and 1 
common school. The mechanics are 
boot and shoe makers, saddlers, black- 
smiths, tailors, &lc. Population 200 
persons; of whom 4 are attorneys and 
2 physicians. 

County Courts are held on the Zrd 
Monday in every month ; — Quarterly 
in March, June, August and NovW. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 



169 



Judge Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 2bth of May and October. 

MOUNT VERNON, is situated 
8 ms. from Alexandria, and 15 ms. 
from Washington. The house erect- 
ed on this consecrated spot, is of wood, 
cut in imitation of free stone. The 
centre part was built by Lawrence 
Washington, brother to the General: 
the wings were added by General 
Washington. It is named after Ad- 
miral Vernon, in whose expedition 
Lawrence Washington served. The 
house is 2 stories high and 96 feet in 
length, witli a portico fronting the ri- 
ver, extending the whole length of the 
house surmounted by a cupola; the 
grounds are in the same slate as left 
by General Washington. 

The house contains on the ground 
floor, 6 rooms and a spacious passage, 
4 of these are of ordinary size: at the 
north east is a large room, very lofty, 
with a handsomely sculptured ceiling, 
which contains a very handsome mar- 
ble mantle-piece sent to General 
Washington from Italy, — also a very 
fine organ, on which instrument the 
late Mrs, Washington was an accom- 
plished performer; this room is only 
used for large dinner parties, &c. 
The room, at the south east end of the 
house, is used as a family dining 
room, and contains busts of Monsieur 
Neckar, Paul Jones, and General 
Washington, — also a handsome libra- 
ry, fitted in the Avall, with glass cases ; 
the books chiefly collected by Gene- 
ral Washington. 

The house fronts N. W., the rear 
looking to the river. In front of the 
house is a lawn, containing 5 or 6 
acres of ground, with a serpentine walk 
around it, fringed with shrubbery, 
and planted with poplar. On each 
side of the lawn stands a garden : the 
one on the right is the flower garden, 
and contains two green houses, (one 
built by Gen. Washington, the other 
by Judge Washington,) a hot house, 
and a pinery. It is laid ofl' in hand- 
22 



some walks, with box-wood borders, 
remarkable for their beauty. It con- 
tains, also, a quantity of fig trees pro- 
ducing excellent fruit — the other is a 
kitchen garden, containing only fruit 
and vegetables. 

About 200 yards from the house, in 
a southerly direction, stands a sum- 
mer' house, on the edge of the river 
bank, which is lofty and sloping, and 
clothed Avith wood to the water's edge. 
The summer house commands a fine 
prospect of the river, and the Mary- 
land shore, — also of the White House 
at a distance of 5 or 6 ms. down the 
river, where an engagement took 
place during the late war, with the 
British vessels which ascended the ri- 
ver. Proceeding from the summer 
house about 150 yards, in a westerly 
direction, you come to the A'ault — a 
plain excavation in the bank, faced 
with brick, and surrounded with a 
rough white-washed paling. Several 
lofty oaks stand around it, and small 
red cedar trees grow on the top of the 
tomb. The door and door posts are 
covered with names of visitors. In the 
vault are buried General Washing- 
ton and his wife, Judge Washhig- 
ton and his wife, with many relations 
of the family. 

The estate, as owned by Judge 
Washington, consisted of between 3 
and 4000 acres, now divided between 
the Judge's nephews. John Augustine 
Washington, owns Mount Vernon 
with the grounds immediately around 
the house, and 1200 acres of land. 
The fallow deer abound in the 
woods. The timber of which is com- 
posed chiefly of white and black oak, 
with dogwood, hickory, ash, cedar, 
<fcc., the soil is thin, and rather poor, 
cultivated chiefly in Indian corn, rye, 
barley, &c. Judge Washington cul- 
tivated the millet to a considerable ex- 
tent ; — he kept many sheep, and found 
them profitable. There are 2 fishe- 
ries on the place, where shad and her- 
ring are caught in large quantities. 
' Mount Vernon is healthy during all 



170 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 



the year except the fall, when agues 
and bilious L^'ers prevail. An intel- 
ligent visiter, connected with the pub- 
lic press, some years since gave to the 
Vv'orld an interesting sketch of a visit 
to Mount Vernon, he remarks, " we 
were conducted over long gravel 
walks, bordered with box, which is 
arranged and trimmed into the most 
fanciful figures, ^nd which at the age 
of 20 years and upwards, still pos 
sesses the vigour and freshness cf 
youth. At the extremity of these ex- 
tensive alleys and pleasure grounds, 
ornamented witli fruit trees and shrub- 
bery, and clothed in perennial ver- 
dure, stands two hot houses, and as 
many green houses, situated in the 
sunniest part of the garden, and shield- 
ed from the northern winds by a long 
range of wooden buildings, for the ac- 
con.modatioii of servants. From the 
air of a frosty December morning, we 
were suddenly introduced into the 
tropical climate of these spacious 
houses, where we long sauntered 
among groves of the coffee tree, le- 
mons and oranges, all in full bearing, 
regailing our senses w'ith the flowers 
and odours of spring." 

"One of the hot houses is appro- 
priated entirely to rearing the pine 
apple which grows in great perfec- 
tion, long rows of which we saw in 
a flourishing and luxuriant condition. 
A stalk produces but a single apple, 
which grows near the ground, in the 
centre of a cluster of tall and spear- 
shaped leaves. Many bushels of le- 
mons and oranges of every variety 
are annually grown, which besides 
furnishing the family with a supply 
of these fruits at all seasons, are dis- 
tributed as a delicacy to their friends, 
or used to administer to the comforts 
of their neighbours in cases of sick- 
ness. The coffee plant thrives well, 
yields abundantly, and in quality is 
said to be equal to the best Mocha. 
The branches under which we walk- 
ed were laden with the fruit, fast ad- 
vancing to maturity. Among the 



more rare plants we saw the night 
blooming cereus, the guava, from 
which the jelly of that name is made, 
allocs of a gigantic growth, the West 
India plantain, the sweet cassia in 
bloom, the prickley pear, and a thou- 
sand others. They are all tastefully 
arranged in large boxes made for the 
purpose, and nurtured with unceasing 
attention, requiring the constant ser- 
vices of two assistants besides the 
chief gardener. To the north of the 
range of buildings before mentioned, 
is an extensive kitchen garden, sur- 
rounded with a hedge of cedar, so 
regularly trimmed, as to present the 
appearance of a verdant wall. At 
every step in these pleasure grounds, 
the thought occurred that the illus- 
trious projector is no more. " There 
was a garden, and in the garden, a 
new sepulchre," says the Scripture. 
The lesson on human pursuits and 
human pleasures, inculcated by this 
concise and beautiful narration of the 
Evangelist, never struck me more 
forcibly than when we left the gate, 
and walked towards the tomb of 
Washington. In passing the house, 
the chamber in which he died was 
pointed out to us ; and imagination 
aided by these memorials, soon pre- 
sented the whole scene in such dis- 
tinct and vivid colors that we seemed 
almost to follow his remains to the 
grave. The family vault in which 
the dust of the hero reposes, is at the 
distance of perhaps 30 rods from the 
house immediately upon the bank of 
the river. A more romantic and pic- 
turesque site for a tomb can scarcely 
be imagined. BetAveen it and the 
Potomac, is a curtain of forest trees 
covering the steep declivity to the 
water's edge, breaking the glare of 
the ])rospect, and yet affording glimpes 
of the river, when the foliage is the 
thickest. The tomb is surrounded 
by several large native oaks, which 
are venerable by their years, and 
which annually strew the sepulchre 
with autumnal leaves, furnishing the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUaUIER. 



171 



most appropriate drapery for such a 
place, and giving a still deeper im- 
pression to the memento mori. Inter- 
spersed among the oaks, and over 
hanging the tomb, is a copse of red 
cedar; but whether native or trans- 
planted, I could not ascertain, its 
ever-green boughs presents a fine 
contrast to the hoary and leafless 
branches of the oak; and while the de- 
ciduous foliage of the latter indicates 
the decay of the body, the eternal ver- 
dure of the former furnishes a beau- 



tiful emblem of the immortal spirit. 
The sacred and symbolic cassia Avas 
familiar to Washington, and perhaps 
led to the selection of a spot where 
the ever green flourished." 

Pleasant Valley, P. V. 138 ms. 
from R., and 30 ms. W. of W., situ- 
ated on Little river turnpike road, 10 
ms. above Fairfax C. H. It contains 
10 dwelling houses, a tavern, store, 
and blacksmith shop. Population 20. 

Prospect Hill, P. O. 132 ms, 
from R., and 9 W. of W. 



FAU(iUiER was created by the legislature in 1759, from a part of Prince 
William. It is bounded N. by Loudoun, N. E. and E. by Prince William, 
E. and S. E. hy Stafford, S. and S. W. by the Rappahannock, which sepa- 
rates it from Culpeper, and W. N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which separates 
it from Frederick: — greatest length 45 ms. mean breadth 16, and area 720 
sq. ms. — It extends in lat. from 38° 24' to 39° 02,' and in long, from 0° 32,' 
to 1° 5' W. of W. C This county possesses very valuable beds of mag- 
nesia, soap stone, and several gold mines, worked upon an extensive scale. 
The northern part of the county slopes north, and sends it waters to Goose 
creek; but from the neighbourhood of Cobler mountain, near Salem, a ridge 
runs to the S. E. extremity of the county, which divides its waters: those on 
the N. E. side flowing N. E. into the Occoquan, and those on the S. W. 
flowing in a S. E. directioa until they reach the Rippahannock. '^^hz sur- 
face is agreeably diversified, and the soil when judiciously cultivated, sus- 
ceptible of high improvement, and very productive. Population 1620, 
23,103 — 1830, 26,086. Fauquier belongs to the Qth judicial circuit, and 
3/-i district. Taxes paid in 1833, 87,282 69— in 1834, on lots, $293 42— 
land, $1,553 74—5,903 slaves, $1,475 7.5—7132 horses, 8427 92—28 
studs, $311 00—76 coaches, $191 50—52 carryalls, $62 26—35 gigs, 
^23 75. Total $7,344 28. No report of school commissioners. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Arnold's Old Place, P. O. 129 
ms. from R., and 73 from W. 

Barnetts' Mills, P. O. 93 ms. 
from R., and 68 from W., situated on 
the north side of the Rappahannock 
river, about 6 ms. above its junction 
with the Rapid Ann. It contains 12 
dwelling houses, a Pre.'sbyterian house 
of worship, a mercantile store, an ex- 
tensive flour manufacturing mill, 40 
feet square, and 5 stories high, which 



malces annually from 3 to 4000 bar- 
rels of flour, a grist, and a saw mill 
which saws from 2 to 300,000 feet of 
plank annually. The mechanical 
pursuits are various, such as millers, 
millwrights, coopers, boot and shoe 
makers, blacksmiths, <fcc. Popula- 
tion 30. 

The Rappahannock is at this place 
100 yards wide, and is now being 
made navigable for boats to Frede- 



172 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUariER. 



ricksburg.by the Rappahannock Com- 
pany. The navigation is to extend 
50 ms. above Barnett's mills, and will 
greatly enhance the value of water 
power at this and other points on the 
river. The Avater power at this 
place is created by a dam 5 feet high, 
situated half a m'ile above the mills, 
and conveyed to them by a canal cut 
in some places through the solid rock, 
to the depth of 25 or 30 feet, the fall 
gained by the dam and canal is 16 
feet. There has recently been erected 
at this place a stamping mill, for the 
purpose of stamping gold ores, ob- 
tained from a mine about half a mile 
distant, worked by a company. The 
ore of this mine is thought by expe- 
rienced judges, to contain gold enough 
to afford a good profit upon the in- 
vestment necessary to keep the mine 
in operation, — It is even said that ore 
yielding _/f/if?/ cents a bushel, may be 
worked profitably — and picked ore 
from this mine has yielded $8 per 
bushel by actual assay. We learn 
also by a recent communication, that 
the miners in searching for gold have 
recently discovered a beautiful soap- 
stone which has already become an 
article of commerce, and is likely to 
be very profitable, when the improve- 
ments on the river shall have been 
completed sufficiently for its trans- 
portation. 

Blackwell's Mill, 116 ms. N. 
N. W. of R., and 60 ms. S. W. by 
W. of W., situated 6 ms. W. of War- 
renion, 40 N. of Fredericksburg, and 
50 ms. S. W. of Alexandria, o^i the 
east side of Carter's Run, about 2 ms. 
above its junction with the Rappa- 
hannock, on the main road leading 
from Warrenton to Chester'.s Gap; at 
the end of the progressing improve- 
ment of navigation, Vvhich, when com- 
plete will make the mill, the main de- 
posit of all the grain raised west of it, 
as far as the Blue Ridge, a distance of 
18 ms, of fine wheat growing country. 
This mill stands unrivalled in its sec- 
tion of country, for the immense 



amount of wheat which it purchases. 
It manufactures 30,000 bushels an- 
nually. There is also a good saw 
mill, with an abundance of pine timber 
at hand, 1 general store, and 10 dwel- 
ling houses. The country around is 
densely populated ; — the soil suscep- 
tible of high improvement, especially 
by the use of clover and plaister. 
Population at the mill 30. 

DoDDsviLLE, P. O. 105 ms. from 
R. and 68 from W. 

Edgefield, P. O. 105 ms. from R. 
and 73 from W. 

Elk Marsh, P. O. 101 ms. from 
R, and 57 from W. — situated in the 
southern part of the county, 22 ms. 
N. W. of Fredericksburg. 

Elk Run Church, P. O. 90 ms. 
from R. and 68 from W. — situated in 
the S. E. part of the county, 20 ms. 
N. N. W. of Fredericksburg. 

Farrowsville, p. V. in N. W. 
part of the county, 130 ms. from R. 
and 64 W. of W. — situated on the 
head waters of Goose creek, 4 ms. be- 
low Manassa's Gap. — It contains a 
tavern, 2 mercantile stores, and a house 
of public worship free for all denomi- 
nations. Population 20. 

Fayetteville, p. O. situated 50 
ms. S. W. of W., in the southern part 
of the count jr. 

FoxviLLE, P. V. 108 ms. from R. 
and 64 W. of W. — situated on the 
banks of the Rappahannock, 30 ms, 
from Fredericksburg. It contains 2 
extensive manufacturing mills, 2 wool 
carding machines, 1 mercantile store, 
and several black.smiths, and coopers. 
Large quantities of good sl(7fe are 
found in the neighborliood: in wliich 
there is also a mineral spring — said 
to be iv/iife sulphur — which is now a 
place of considerable resort. — The 
surrounding country is fertile and 
thickly settled with intelligent and in- 
dependent farmers. 

Geioiantown, P, O. 95 ms. from 
R. and 61 from W. — about the centre 
of the county. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUQUIER. 



173 



Griggsby's Store, 127 ms. from 
R. and 61 from W. 

Lee's Sulphur Spring, on the 

Rappahannock, near Thompson's 
Falls, on the road from Warrenton 
to Jeffersonton, in Culpeper. This 
spring has been only known for a 
few years, but has become exceeding- 
ly popular, and attracts such a con- 
course in summer, as to have induced 
their enterprising proprietor (John 
Hancock Lee) to go to very great ex- 
pense in erecting large, pleasant, and 
commodious buildings; and laying out 
the grounds with great beauty, taste, 
and variety of ornamental trees, &c. 

McRaeville, p. O. 127 ms. from 
R. and 53 from W. 

MoRRisviLLE, P. V. in the south- 
ern part of the county. — 95 ms. from 
R. and G3 from W. — situated on the 
stage road which leads from Falmouth 
to Washington, the county seat of 
Rappahannock county, 19 ms. from 
the former, 18 from Wa7-rrent07i, and 
20 from Fredericksburg. It contains 
a general store, tavern, hatter, tailor, 
wheelwright, and blacksmith. — The 
Baptists hold a monthly meetmg at 
this place. Population, 20 whites, 
and IS blacks. 

New Baltimore, P. V. 122 ms. 
from R. and 45 S. of W. from W. — 
situated in the eastern part of the 
county, on the post road leading from 
Warrenton, to Alexandria, 5 miles 
from the former. It contains 1 7 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 flourishing Academy, 
incorporated 5 years since by the Le- 
gislature, and now in high estimation, 
"2 mercantile stores, a tanyard, wheelr 
Wright, hlacksmith, boot and shoe 
factory, and 2 wheal fan factories on 
an improved plan — A Colonization 
Society, auxiliary to the State Society 
has recently been formed. — In the 
vicinity there is a Baptist house of 
worship, called Broad Run meeting 
house. Population 115 persons; ofl 
whom 2 are physicians. 

Oak Hill, P. O. 122 ms. from 
R, and 58 S, W. by W. of W. 



Orleans, P. O. distances omitted 
on the post oflice list. 

Paris, P. V. 131 ms. from R. and 
58 S. W. by W. of W.— situated in 
the northern part of the count)', at the 
foot of Ashby's Gap, in the Blue 
Ridge, and immediately at the junc- 
tion of the roads leading from Alex- 
andria and Fredericksburg to Win- 
chester. It contains 25 dwelling 

houses, 3 mercantile, stores, 1 house 
of public worship, free for all deno- 
minations, 1 common school, 2 sad- 
dlers, 1 cabinet maker, 1 tailor, 1 tur- 
ner, 2 smith shops, 1 wheat fan ma- 
ker, 2 wagon makers, 1 chair maker, 
and 3 boot and shoe factories. — This 
village enjoys a pure atmosphere, 
good water, and good health at all 
seasons; a disease of a local charac- 
ter has never been known to invade 
it. — The people are intelligent and 
industrious ; famed for their moral de- 
portment and hospitality. — The prac- 
tice of gaming and horse racing, once 
the favorite amusements of the place 
and its vicinity, 'have now entirely 
gone out of vogue. The valley in 
which Paris is located extends 5 or 6 
miles southward of the village. The 
land of the surrounding country is 
fertile, producing all the principle sta- 
ples of the state, and worth at an ave- 
rage price about twenty dollars an 
acre, falling however in value as it 
recedes from the mountain. Popula- 
tion 200 persons; one of whom is a 
phj'sician. 

Rectortowx, p. V. 129 ms. from 
R. and 53 S. W. by W. of W.— situ- 
ated a mile to the S. E. of Goose 
creek, in a very healthy and fertile 
neighborhood. It contains 24 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 Methodist house of 
worship, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 
1 saddler, 1 wagon -maker, 3 black- 
smiths, 1 cabinet maker, 1 boot and 
shoe maker, 1 tailor, 3 extensive mer- 
chant mills, 1 saw mill, and 1 carding 
machine. Population 100; one phy- 
sician. 

Somerville, p. V. So ms. from R. 



174 



EASTERxN VIRGINIA— FAUaUIER. 



and 73 W. of W. — situated near the 
S. E. border of the county, on the 
main stage road leading from Fal 
mouth to Winchester, 19 ms. from 
the former, 20 ms. S. E. of Warren- 
ton, 19 from Brentsville, 7 N. W. of 
Spottedville, and 5 S. E. of Elk Run: 
and at the intersection of the roads 
leading to those places. In the vi- 
cinity of the post office, is one large 
and flourishing male, seminary, in 
which is taught all the usual branches 
of education taught in our schools, 
and averaging -generally from 60 to 
80 pupils; a tavern, mercantile store, 
blacksmith's shop, running several 
forges, and a cotton gin. The coun- 
try around is moderately fertile and 
thickly settled. 

Salem, P. V. in the northern part 
of the county, 1 17 ms. from R. and 63 
W. of W. This village is laid out 
with one main street running E. and 
W. — nearly half a mile in length: 
and two cross streets, as yet unim- 
proved. — It is situated on the stage 
road leading from Warrenton to Win- 
chester, 13 miles from the former, and 
30 from the latter place, on a hand- 
some ridge, which divides the waters 
Avhich flow through Goose creek into 
the Potomac, from those which flow 
into the Rappahannock. It contains 
33 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile 
stores, 1 Academy, used as a place of 
public worship by all denominations, 
until a large and handsome brick 
meeting house, which is now being 
erected, shall be completed, 1 common 
school, 1 well organized Sunday 
school, and 3 taverns. — The mecha- 
nics are, saddlers, tailors, boot and 
shoe makers, coach makers, Avagon 
makers, blacksmiths, bricklayers, 
stone masons, plasterers and fancy- 
wall painters, house-joiners, &c. The 
principal article of trade is lumber, 
great quantities of which are brought 
from the country for some distance 
round. There is a tri-weekly stage 
running from Fredericksburg to' Win- 
chester, and a cross mail 3 times a 



week from Buckland to this place. 
Population 250 persons; of whom 
one is a physician. 

Walnut Branch, P. O. Ill ms. 
from R. and 55 S. W. of W. 

WARRENTON, P. V. and seat 
of justice, 107 ms. from R. and 51 S. 
W." by W. of W., in lat. 38° 41' N. & 
long. 0° 46' W. of W. C— It is a beau- 
tiful village situated near the centre of 
the county; and contains (besides the 
ordinary county buildings which are 
spacious and handsome, and erected 
at an expense estimated at $30,000,) 
200 neat and closely built dwelling 
houses, 3 houses of public worship, 
Methodist, Presbyterian, and Episco- 
palian, 4 primary schools, 3 taverns, 
4 private boarding houses, 2 printing 
offices, each issuing a weekly paper, 
4 wheelwrights, 1 coach maker, 3 
saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 2 cabinet makers, 5 house 
carpenters, 4 blacksmith shops, 2 tai- 
lors, 2 clock and watch makers, 3 ba- 
kers, 1 tanner and currier, 3 brewe- 
ries, 1 tin plate worker, 2 milliners, 1 
mantuamaker, 1 house and sign paint- 
er, and 2 plough manufactories. This 
village has a regular market, which 
is held in a neat little building, the 
upper part of which is used as a Toicn 
Hall Population 1300; of whom 
3 are resident ministers, 9 attorneys, 
and 8 physicians. The Winchester, 
Fredericksburg, Alexandria, & Char- 
lottesville, post roads intersect each 
other at right angles in W^arrenton, 
which mak^es it quite a thorough-fare. 
Many travellers going south prefer 
this route as it gives them an oppor- 
tunity of viewing the rich counties at 
the foot of the Blue Ridge, Fauquier, 
Culpeper, Orange, Albt marie, &c. 
and of visiting the Uaivtrsity of Vir- 
ginia. There is an excellent McAd- 
amiscd turnpike from Warrenton to 
Alexandria. 

County Courts are hdd on the Ath 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
m March, May, August, and Novcvi 
bcr. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FLUVANNA. 175 

Judge Scott holds his Circuit cantile stores, a cooper's shop, black- 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the l5^ of April and September. 



smith shop, and a boot and shoe fac- 
tory : — on the east or Fauquier side 



Weaver's Mill, P. O. 1 14 mileslthere are 3 dwelling houses, I grist 



from R. and 59 fe. W. by W. of W. 
Wheatley, p. V. 105 ms. from 
R. and 64 S. W. by W. of W.— situ- 
ated 25 miles above Fredericksburg, 
upon the Rappahannock, which di- 
vides the town and throws a part into 
Culpeper. — On the Culpeper side 
there are 8 dwelling houses, 1 extensive 
flour manufacturing mill, capable of 
grinding 50,000 bushels of wheat in 
the ordinary grinding season, 1 cotton 
gin, and wool-carding machine, 2mer- 



and 1 saw mill. Population of the 
whole place 90.. The Rappahannock 
river is at this place 100 j-ards wide, 
and has in the distance of a mile, a 
fall of 44 feet, commencing above the 
village and terminating below. This 
the Rappahannock Company will 
evade by a canal which they have 
commenced on the Fauquier side. — 
Vast quantities of building stone of 
excellent quality, may be found on 
both sides of the river. 



FLUVANNA. 

Fluvanna was created by the Legislature in 1777, from a part of Al- 
bemarle county. — It is bounded N. by Louisa, \V. by Albemarle, S. by 
James river, which separates it from Buckingham, and E. partly by Gooch- 
land, and partly by a bend of James river, separating it from Cumberland. 
It is in shape a parallelogram, approaching to a square, its border in com- 
mon Avith Albemarle is 2<3 miles, its mean breadth 16, — area 416 sq. miles. 
It extends in lat. from 37° 40' to 37° 58' N. and in long, from 1° 12' to 1° 43' 
W. of W. C. The Rivanna river enters it from Albemarle, and flowing 
S. E. divides the county diagonally, leaving nearly half on the north side, 
and empties into James river at Columbia. The surface is for the most 
part broken, but between the Rivanna and James there is a large tract of 
barren, level land which runs for some distance into Albemarle. The xoil 
on the rivers is good — that on the James equal perhaps to any of the cele- 
brated low grounds on that river. The lower part of the county, — included 
in a line drawn from the mouth of little Bremo creek to the N. E. angle 
of the countj'- — has a dark greyish soil resembling disintegrated granite 
which produces the best cheicing tobacco in the state. An eminent tobacco 
manufacturer of Richmond has ofTered the inhabitants of this district to 
take all of their tobacco, (lugs included,) at 610 a hundred, and pay all 
costs and charges for its delivery in Richmond. 

The vein of gold which runs through Louisa, Goochland and Fluvanna 
into Buckingham, is worked near Palmyra, the county seat of Fluvanna. 
Population 1820, 6,704— in 1830, 8,221.— This county' belongs to the 11th 
judicial circuit and Gth district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2092 18 — in 
1833-4, on lots, $37 31— land, $1316 83—2093 slaves, $523 25—1626 
horses, $97 56—7 studs, $84 GO- 10 coaches, $26 25— 20 carryalls, $24 
05—30 gigs, $23 35. Total, $2132 60. Expended in educating poor 
children"^in 1832, $166 83~in 1833, $359 73. 



176 EASTERN VIRGINIA— FRANKLIN. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, <fcc. 



Columbia, P. V. 52 ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 122 from W.— situated 
on the left bank of the Rivanna, at its 
junction with the James. — It contains 
20 dwelling houses, 4 mercantile 
stores, 2 taverns, 1 house of public 
worship, free for all denominations, 1 
common school, 2 tailors, 3 boot and 
shoe factories, 2 cabinet makers, 1 
wheelwright, 1 hovise carpenter, and 

1 smith's shop. Population 85 whites, 
one of whom is a physician, 54 free 
colored persons, and 38 slaves. To- 
tal, 177. 

Laurel Spring, P. O. 61 ms, N. 
W. by W. of R. and from W. 

Lindsey's Cross Roads, P. O. 
80 ms. W. of R. and 123 from W. 

PALMYRA, P. V. and seat oj 
justice, 59 ms. N. W. by W. of R. 
and 136 S. W. of W., in lat. 37° 47' 
N. and long. 1° 29' W. of W. C— 
situated on the Rivanna river, 14 ms. 
from its junction with the James. 
Besides the county buildings which 
are of brick, and have been recently 
erected, it contains 14 dwelling hous- 
es, 1 methodist house of worship, 1 
mercantile store, 1 tavern, 1 merchant, 
grist and saw mill, 1 woollen factor5^ 

2 saddlers, 2 tailors, 1 boot and shoe 
factory, 1 tanyard, 1 cabinet maker, 
and several carpenters and coopers. 
A handsome and permanent bridge is 
erected across the Rivanna. This 
village is thriving. 

County Courts are held on the ^th 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly 'n\ March, June, August, and No- 
vetnbcr. 

Judge Field holds his Circuit 



■Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \st of April and Septem- 
ber. 

Union Mills, 68 ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 122 from W., situated 
on the left bank of the Rivanna, on 
the post road, 25 miles froni Colum- 
bia, and 16 from Charlottesville, in 
the midst of beautiful mountain and 
river scenery. At this place there 
are located, a merchant mill, grist and 
saw mill, and a cotton factory, called 
the Virginia Union Factory. — 
This factory owned by Messrs. Tim- 
ber lake and 3Iaffruder,is-d large and 
commodious brick building: it runs 
1500 spindles, besides the necessary 
machinery for carding, &c. — it con- 
tains 12 power looms, in which seve- 
ral hundred yards of substantial cloth 
are made per day. The cotton yarn 
of this establishment is in high repute 
throughout the state. More than 100 
operatives are employed by the enter- 
prising proprietors in the different de- 
partments of their establishment. — 
The place contains comfortable houses 
for the accommodation of 18 or 20 
families, a tanyard, and a methodist 
house of Avorship ; besides the elegant 
dwellings of the proprietors. 

Wilmington, P. V. 55 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 132 from W., 
situated on Rivanna river, 14 miles 
above its mouth. There are located 
here 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 
and a blacksmith shop. 

Winn's Tavern, P. O. 68 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 142 from W. in 
the Avestern part of the county. 



FRANKLIN. 

Franklin was created by the Legislature in 1784, from parts of Bed- 
ford and Henrj'- counties. It lies S. W. of Staunton river, and is bounded 
by the county of Botetourt on the N., Bedford on the N. E. and E., Pitt- 
sylvania on the S. E., Henry on the S., Patrick on the S. W., by the Blue 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— FRANKLIN. 177 

Ridge, separating it from Floyd ou the W. and a small part of Montgomery 
and part of Botetourt on the N. W. L?ngth 30 miles, mean breadth 25, 
and area 750 square miles. It contains in lat. from 36^ 46' to 37° 13' N. 
and in long, from 2° 41' to 3° 18' W. of W. C. 

Black Water river and Pig river rise in the Blue Ridge on the west, 
and run nearly parallel with each other through the county to the east. 
Black Water emptying itself into the Staunton at the junction of the Bed- 
ford, Pittsylvania and Franklin lines; and Pig river emptying itself in the 
same stream in the county of Pittsylvania. — Neither river is navigable. 

The streams called creeks are all small, though of sufficient size for the 
usual purpo.ses of machinery. The principal of these are Syiow creek, ris- 
ing in the mountain and running east into Pig river — Maggotty, rising in 
the Blue Ridge, running to the east into Black Water — Chesnwt creek, run- 
ning to the east into Pig river — GiWs creek, rising in the Blue Ridge and 
running to the east into Black Water — Runneti Bag, rising in the Blue 
Ridge and running to the S. E. into Smith's river, in the county of Patrick, 
and Nicholas creek, running south into Smith's river. 

There arc some small mountains — Chcsn'it mountain south of the court 
house about twelve miles, and the Grassy Hill, on the north, about a mile 
from the court house, are the largest. The others are small and deserve no 
particular notice. About half a mile east of this place an immense rock 
rises very abruptly, particularly on the north, at least two hundred feet above 
its base, from which the county town takes its name — it is known as the 
Bald Knob, from its barren surface of rock — whose area is about eighty 
feet in length, by a mean breadth of about fifteen. 

The Staitntoii or Roanoke river, from the point where it passes through 
the Blue Ridge, forms a natural boundary of the county, separating it from 
Bedford. — The Blue Ridge from the same point forms another natural 
boundary on the north, separating Franklin from Botetourt, until it loses 
itself in the Alleghany at the Bent mountain, which then forms the boun- 
dary separating Franklin from Montgomery and Floyd, until it reaches the 
Patrick line. 

The staples arc principally tobacco, Avheat, Indian corn and iron. The 
Washington Iron Works, on Pig river, within half a mile of Rocky Mount, 
yield annually about 150 tons of iron of a very superior quality. Iron ore 
is found in various parts of the county. 

The slope of the county'- is E. S. E. The elevation of the surface is 
about equal to that of the adjoining county of Bedford, or about 650 feet 
above the tide of the ocean. The general face of the country is rolling — 
the soil of a medium quality, with a clay foundation, and generally well 
adapted to farming. Population 1820, 12,017— in 1830, 14,91 1.— Franks 
lin belongs to the. tenth judicial circuit, and fifth district, Taxes paid in 
1832-3 82182 19— in 1833-4, on lots. $19 35— land. $1131 12—2612 
slaves, $653 00—34.59 horses, $207 54— 14 studs, $146 00— 8 coaches, 
$21 00—9 carryalls, $9 00—12 gigs, $7 35. Total, $2194 36. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, $518 50^in 1833, $1188 55. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &lc. 

Boon's MiLts, P. O. 184 ms. S. 1 Calloway's Mill, P. O. 193 ms. 
W. of R. and 262 S, W. by W, of S. W. by W, of R. and 271 from W. 
W. ^ 

23 



178 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GLOUCESTER. 



Cooper's P. O. 172 ms. S. W. by 
W. of R. and 250 from W. 

DicKEN-soN, P. O. 201 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 279 from W. 

Haleford, p. O. IGO ms. from R. 
and 242 from W. 

Helm's, P. O. 203 ms. from R. and 
281 S. W. of W. 

Hunter's Hall, P. O. 196 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 274 from W. 

Rocky Mount, P. V. and seat of 
justice 185 ms. from R. and 203 S. 
W. of W. — situated on a branch of 
Pig river, a tributary of Roanoke, in 
lat. 36° 57' N. and 'long. 2° 50' W. 
of W. C. It contains besides the 
usual county buildings, about 30 
dwelling houses, 3 general stores, and 
2 taverns. — The mechanics are 2 tai- 
lors, a saddler, cabinet maker, 2 black- 
smiths, a boot and shoe manufacturer, 
a printing office, which issues a week- 
ly paper, and a lanyard. — In the vi- 
cinity there is an iron furnace and 
forge, which give employment to 100 
operatives, and manufacture about 1 60 
tons of bar iron and castings annually. 
Population (exclusive of the persons 
employed in the iron manufactory) 
175 persons; of whom 3 are attor- 
neys, and 1 a phj'sician. 

County Cowrts are held on the \st 
Monday in every month: — Quarfer- 



ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Saunders holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 9th of May and October. 

Shady Grove, P. O. 217 ms. from 
R. and 305 S. W. of W. 

Taylor's Store, P. O. 173 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 251 from W. 
situated 12 ms. E. of Rocky Moimt. 

Union Hall, P. V. 201 ms. from 
R. and 276 S. W. of W. — situated near 
the Blue Ridge mountain, between 
Pig and Black Water rivers, on the 
main stage road leading from Henry 
C. H. to Lynchburg, at the intersec- 
tion of the road from Pittsylvania C. 
H. to Rocky Mount. It contains 15 
dwelling houses, I Methodist house of 
worship, at which an English school 
is kept, and one well organised tem- 
perance society. The mechanics are 
a tanner, tailor, blacksmith, and to- 
bacco manufacturer. In the vicinity 
on Pig river is an extensive manufac- 
turing flour mill, and a wool and cot- 
ton manufactory. Population 25 per- 
sons: of Vv'hom one is a physician. 

Woodpecker's Level, P. O. 208 
ms. from R. and 286 S. W. of W.— 
situated in the western part of the 
county, 23 ms. eas-t of Ro-cky MounL 



GL-OUCESTEIi. 



Gloucester was created by the Legislature in 1652, from a part o( 
York county. It is bounded N. by the Piankatank river, which separates 
it from Middlesex, — E. by Mathews and an arm of the Chesapeake formed 
by the mouth of York river, and Mob Jack bay, — S. by York river, which 
separates it from York county, — S. W. by the same river, separating it from 
James City county and New Kent, and N. W. by King and Queen county. 
Length 28 miles, mean width 10, and area 280 square miles. It extends 
in lat. from 37^ 15' to 37° 35', and in long, from 0° 14' to 0° 42' E. of W. 
C. The principal products of this county are corn, cotton, and wheat, — 
much barley was formerly raised, but from some unknown cause the lands 
have ceased to be adapted to its cultivation. Population 1820,9,678 — in 
1830, white males, 217 — females, 2197 — total, 4314 — slaves, males, 2885 
— females, 2806— total, 5691 — free colored persons, males, 275 — females, 
328 — total, 603. Number of flimilics, 911; average number in each family 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— C400CHLAND. 



179 



1 1 ; nuinber of persons to the square mile, 35. Gloucester belongs to the 
fourth judicial circuit, and second district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2180 
91— in 1833-4, on lot.s, 8389 00— land, $790 GG— 3042 slaves, $7G0 50 
— 1220 horses, $73 20—4 studs, $76 00— G4 coaches, $139 GO— 9 car- 
ryalls, $10 00—214 gigs, $118 65— total, $2172 50. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $125 42— in 1833, $334 73. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Glknx's p. O. 89 nis. E. of R. 
and 148 from W. 

GLOUCESTER C. H. P. V. 82 
ms. E. of R. and 1G6 from W. — situ- 
ated near the centre of the county, 2 
miles from the head of Ware river, 
and. 14 from Gloucester ferr}^ It 
contains a court house, clerk's office, 
a criminal and a debtors jail, 8 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 incorporated Academy 
for males, called 'Ncirlngtou,' and 
one female Academy, 4 mercantile 
stores, and 1 tavern. The mechanics 
are a wheelwright, 2 carriage makers, 
3 blacksmiths, a boot and shoe facto- 
ry, and 2 tailors. There are eight 



houses of public worship, within the 
circumference of 14 miles from the 
court house, of which 2 are Episco- 
palian, 2 Baptist, and 4 Methodist. 
Population 120. 

The mail between Washington City 
and York Town passes this office 
four times a week, and between Rich- 
mond and Mathews twice a week. 

Count 1/ CovrlsnYe held on ihe first 
Monday in every month ; — Quarterly 
171 March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 9Ath of May and October. 



GoocKLAXD was created by the Legislature in 1727, from a part of Hen- 
rico. It is bounded, on the W. by Fluvanna, N. by Hanover and Louisa, 
E. by Henrico, and S. by James river, which separates it from Powhatan 
and Cumberland. It is 30 miles in length by about 10 in mean breadth, 
containing 300 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37° 31' to 37° 51' N. and 
in long, from °0 47' to 1° 20' AV. of W. C. 

The general surface of the county is undulating, in some places rather 
broken. In diverging from the nvcr it becomes more level and uniform, 
particularly in the upper part of the county. There is great diversity of 
soil, thougli much that is now exhausted and abandoned for all purposes of 
cultivation, was naturally of good and improvable quality. By far the finest 
portion of the county is that in the vicinity of James river. Perhaps there 
is no other tract of similar extent in eastern Virginia, that combines equal 
natural advantages with so much fertility of soil and beauty of scenery. 
The width of the low grounds which form the ravine of the river, and the 
bold features of the adjacent highlands, present a pleasing and striking con- 
trast. Added to this, an improved system of husbandry has been generally 
adopted throughout this section within a few years, the good efl'ects of which 
are decidedly manifest. But though the lands in the vicinity of the river 
are undoubtedly much finer than in other parts of the county, yet they are 
in many places of excellent quality, and easily susceptible of improvement. 
The chief products are corn, wheat, tobacco and oats. Wheat and tobacco 



180 EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. 

are the staple commodities for market, though the extent to which the latter 
is cultivated has been much circumscribed of late years. 

Goochland is well watered, particularly in the lower part by good streams, 
which mostly empty into James river. On many of these, there is water 
power to a considerable extent, but none of it is employed for domestic manu- 
factures. Saw and grist mills are numerous. 

Roads and Canals. — The most important local improvement in the county 
is the Tuckahoe canal, which was excavated about the year 1828. It was 
projected for the purpose of conveying the coal on Tuckahoe creek to 
Richmond, and is exclusively within the county. It communicates with 
the James river canal by means of a lock. Being constructed upon eco- 
nomical but efficient principles, the stock has proved to be exceedingly valu- 
able. The only good road in the county, and one of the best betAveen the 
Blue Ridge and Tide Water, is the main stage road leading by the court 
house, from Richmond to Charlotte sville. A laudable pride is feh, to keep 
this highway in good repair. There are sections of other roads, preserved 
in good order; but generally speaking, the road laws are executed whh 
very little attention to public convenience. The Three Chopped road is 
almost as much famed for its often impassable condition as the well known 
bog of the Choppawamsic. 

Minetals. — The mineral wealth of Goochland is considerable. Bitumi- 
nous coal is found in great abundance in the lower or eastern part of the 
county, both on Tuckahoe creek and on James river. In the upper portion 
of the county, gold has been discovered in many places, from which some 
profit has been realised. 

Churches. — There are from 15 to 20 houses of public worship in the 
county, the greater part of which belong to the Baptists, who constitute the 
prevailing sect. The other religious societies are the Methodists, Presby- 
terians, Episcopalians and Friends. 

Streams. — Tuckahoe creek, a stream of some size, forms in part the lower 
boundary of the county. In its vicinity, a few miles from James river, 
there is an extensive body of coal, of excellent quality. To facilitate the 
transportation of this mineral to market, the Tuckahoe canal was opened 
in 1828, to communicate with the James river improvement. The stock of 
this canal is probably the most valuable canal stock in Virginia, the divi- 
dend being 33 per cent, per annum. On Tuckahoe creek and its branches 
there are many grist and saw mills, the latter of which furnish a great 
quantity of lumber for the Richmond market. The stream is about 15 or 
20 miles in length, pursuing generally a S. E. course to its junction with 
James river. The country which it waters is of medium quality — some of 
it very good. 

Dover creek, about ten miles long, emptying into James river at Dover 
mills. Its general course is southerly, The soil on either side, after leav- 
ing the river for a mile or two, is of inferior quality, and not a little of it 
an entire waste. 

Geriito creek empties into James river at Judo's ferry. At about two miles 
from the river it is divided into the eastern and western branches, on the 
former of which there is a saw mill, and on the latter two grist mills. The 
land along this stream is mostly of excellent quality. General course south, 
and about eight miles in length. 

Beaverdam creek, one of the principal streams in the county, empties in- 
to James river about five miles below the court house, after pursuing a very 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. 181 

devious course. The principal branches of this stream, are the eastern 
and western forks, and Horsopon creelc. It drains a considerable portion 
of country, much of which is distinguished for its fertility, and the durable 
qualities of the soil. The flats along the creek are generally wide, and 
yield great crops of Indian corn. The higland is remarkably well adapted 
to the growth of wheat. Though the land is rolling throughout the whole 
length of Beaverdam creek, there is not much water power, and of course 
very few mills on the stream. On the Horsepcn, there is an excellent grist 
mill, and a saw mill. 

Little creek, a small stream entering into James river three miles above 
the court house. It is five or six miles long; general course to the south. 
Its passage is through a portion of beautiful country. 

Lickitigholc creek is a considerable stream which discharges itself into 
James river four miles above the court house. It was formerly navigable 
for batteaux for two or three miles to a manufacturing mill, but its bed has 
now become so obstructed by hammocks, as to impede their progress, except 
for a short distance. It is divided into two branches, the larger and smaller, 
both of which pass through a country of tolerable fertility. There are but 
few mills on this stream. Length about 15 miles, pursuing a somewhat 
southeasterly direction to its entrance into the river. 

Bi/rd creek, the largest stream in the county, empties into James river 
about 7 miles below Columbia. It is divided into two branches, Big and 
Little Byrd, which unite near the mouth. The Big Byrd rises in Fluvanna, 
and flows a S. E. course, running through a hilly country, especially near 
its termination. The lands onthis stream as well as the Little Byrdare gene- 
rally thin, but abound in fine timber. There are several grist and saw mills. 
It is on the smaller branches of the Byrd that gold has been found. 

Islands. — Suhot island contains .500 acres, and is situated opposite to 
Dover mills. The soil is in a high degree fertile. 

Pleasant' s islands, a short distance above Judes ferry, and three miles be- 
low Maiden's Adventure falls. The land is extremely fertile, and some of 
the original growth was Horse Chesnut, (/Esculus flava,) a very uncom- 
mon forest tree in Eastern Virginia. The two islands contain nearly 200 
acres. 

BMing' s islanl, in Rock Castle neck, about ten miles above the court 
house, contains 500 acres, and possesses a soil of great fertility. 

E'k island, a few miles above Carters ville, contains 1000 acres, and is 
much celebrated for the strength and fertility of its soil : half of this island 
sold a ikiw years since for the enormous price of $75,000. 

Ferries. — Manican totvn ferry, a few miles above Powell's. 

Jades ferry, at the mouth of Genito creek. 

Michiiiz' ferry, one mile below the court house. 

Population in 1820, 10,037— in 1S30, 10,360. Goochland belongs to the 
7th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $3358 09 — in 
1833-1. on land, $2228 3G— 3153 slaves, $789 00—2150 horses. $129 
35—5 studs, $76 00 — U coaches, $113 50—30 carryalls, $35 80—63 
gigs, $35 85 — Total, $3407 87. Expended in educating poor children in 
1833, $186 42. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Be.vverd.vm, p. O. 24 ms. W. oflton, on the mail route leading to 
R. and 139 S. S. W. from Washinsr- Charlottesville, and one mile north of 



182 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. 



James river. 7'here are here a tavern, a 
store, and a blacksmith's shop. It is 
situated in a populous neighborhood, 
not far from Beaverdam creek, whence 
its name. It is surrounded mostly by 
a beautiful, undulating country, well 
adapted to the production of Indian 
corn, wheat, and clover. Tobacco 
was formerly one of the staples, but 
of late years its culture has been near- 
ly discontinued. 

Dover Mills, P. O. on Dover 
creek, near the Charlottesville road, 
21 miles west from Richmond, 135 
from W. and 10 miles below the C. 
H. A store is kept here, and recent- 
ly a tavern has been built. The mill 
possesses advantages greater perhaps 
than any other in the county. Be- 
ing situated at the bank of the James 
river canal, it has every command of 
Water power, and facility for transpor- 
tation to market. A large quantity of 
wheat is yearly manufactured into 
flour, and it is in many respects a 
place of much activity in business. It 
is in the midst of one of the finest 
wheat growing portions of the coun- 
ty, and also affords a market for some 
of the produce ol the contiguous parts 
of Louisa and Hanover. 

Fife's P. O. 30 ms. W. of R. and 
116 S. S. W. of W.— situated in the 
western part of the county, on the 
Charlottesville road, near its intersec- 
tion with the mail route from Frede- 
ricksburg to Cartersville on James 
river, and Salisbury, N. C. A store 
is kept here. The soil of the sur- 
rounding country is of variable quali- 
ty; some of it well adapted to the 
growth of tobacco. 

GOOCHLAND C. H. 127 miles 
from W. and 28 above R. on the 
Charlottesville or river road, and one 
mile north of James river. The place 
has a village-like appearance, and 
contains a tavern, store, tailor's shop, 
&.C. The public buildings are built 
in a neat and durable manner. A 
portion of the adjacent country exhi- 
bits ratlier a hilly and broken suface, 



■ but the soil is mostly of good quality, 
I and some of it exceedmgly fertile. 
I County Courts are held on the. oil 
Monday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vembcr. 

Judge Clopton holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 17/A of April and \st of 
October. 

Johnson's Spring, P. O. on the 
Three Chopped road, 28 miles from 
R. and 15(3 from W. The land in 
the vicinity is of inferior quality, 
much exhausted by injudicious culti- 
vation. 

Mitchell's, P. O. on the Three 
Chopped road, 50 m.s. from R. and 
153 S. S. W. of W. There is a store 
at this place. The land in the vicini- 
ty is of tolerable qualitj^ well adapted 
to the growth of tobacco, of which a 
considerable quantity is prepared for 
market. 

Powell' .s, P. O. 15 ms. W. of R., 
137 from W. and 16 below the court 
house, on the Charlottesville mail 
road. At this well known place, a 
tavern has been kept a number of 
years by William Powell. The good 
order and excellent accommodations 
which distinguish his house, deserve 
a notice in any account which may 
be given of this place. It is situated 
in a thickly settled neighborhood, in 
about two miles of James river. The 
land in the vicinity is of medium 
quality, adapted to the culture of oats, 
of which a large quantity is consum- 
ed at the adjace)it coal pits. 

Saundkrson's, p. O. 160 ms. S. 
S. W. of W. and 42 from R. 

Shannon Hill, P. O. on the 
Three Chopped road, 52 miles from 
R. and 147 S. S. W. of AV. The 
adjoining land is of medium quality, 
well adapted to the production of to- 
bacco, in common with much of the 
upper part of the county, in which it 
is located. There are located here 
besides the post office, a new and com- 
modious tavern, a- mercantile store, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— GREENSVILLE. 



183 



blacksmith shop, and a boot and shoo 
factory. Thero are several Baptist 
hou3e.s of worship in the vicinitv. 
Considerable quantities of gold have 
lately been discovered in the neigh- 
borhood, both on the surface and in 
mines. One mine has recently sold 
for $10,000. 

Watkinsville, p. O. situated on 
the Three Chopped road, leading from 
Richmond to Charlottesville, 36 miles 
from R. 1.58 from W. and 7 N. of 



Goochland C. H. near the head of 
Beaverdam creek, about half a mile 
from the northern boundary of the 
county, on the ndgc which separates 
the waters of the James from South- 
anna river. The land in the neigh- 
borhood IS naturally very fine, well 
adapted to the growth of wheat and 
clover. It contains 8 dwelling houses, 
1 mercantile store, a tavern, tailor's 
and blacksmith's shops. Population 
25. 



GREENSVILLE. 

Greexsville was created by the Legislature in 1784, from a part of 
Brunswick. It is bounded north by Nottoway river, which separates it 
from the county of Dinwiddie and part of Essex, — E. by Sussex and South- 
ampton counties, — S. by Northampton county, of North Carolina, — and 
W. by Brunswick. Length 22 miles, mean breadth 14, and area 308 square 
miles. It extends in lat. from 36° 30' to 36° 43' N. and in long, from 0° 
20' to 0° 46' W. of W. C. — -Meherrin river enters it on the west from 
Brunswick, traverses it in a southeasterly direction, and cuts off about one- 
third of the county to the north; and being bounded on the north by Not- 
toway river, it has considerable commercial advantages. The county slopes 
to the S. E. Population in 1820, 6,853 — in 1830,7,117. Greensville be- 
longs to th3 first judicial circuit and first district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, 
$1983 73— in 183-1, on lots, $21 51— land, $922 06—2420 slaves, $605 
00—1425 horses, $35 50— 4 studs, $158 00—49 coaches, $133 75—8 
carryalls, $S 10—34 gigs, $49 35— Total, $1987 27. No report from 
school commissioners. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



HICKSFORD, P. V. and seat of 

justice, 63 miles S. of Richmond and 
185 from W. — situated on the right 
or south bank of the Meherrin river, 
in lat. 31° 37' N. and long. 0° 35' 
W. of W. C. It contains 12 dwel- 
ling houses, including 3 taverns, and 
3 general stores; court house, clerk's 
office, and jail. l^he Petersburg 
Railroai passes Vv'ithin one hundred 
yards of this village, on its east side. 
The railroad bridge, across the Me- 
herrin river, is one hundred yards 
long, supported by two hundred stone 
piers, and two abutments of the same 
material. Population 35 whites, one 



of whom is a physician, and 30 
blacks — total 65. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and Oci'r. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 15//i of April and 23^ of 
October. 

Sandy Mount, P. O. in the south- 
ern part of the county, 75 miles from 
R. and 197 from Washington. 

Poplar Mount, P. O. 56 miles 
S. of R. and 178 from W.— situated 
on the south side of Nottoway river, 
on the road leadins: from Hicksford 



184 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HALIFAX. 



to Petersburg, 12 miles S. of the for- 
mer, and 32 from the latter, and 8 
miles east of the Petersburg rail 
road. The surrounding country is 
wealthy, and the soil fertile, producing 



well all the staple commodities of the 
state, tobacco, cotton, wheat, Indian 
corn, &c. — which is sold in the Pe- 
tersburg market. 



HALIFAX. 

Halifax was created by the Legislature in 1752, from a part of Lunen- 
burg county. It is bounded on the north by Staunton river, which sepa- 
rates it from Campbell, — N. E. by the same river, separating it from Char- 
lotte, — E. bv Mecklenburg, — S. by Granville county, of North Carolina, — 
and W. by Pittsylvania. Its length is 33 miles, mean breadth 23, and area 
759 square miles. It extends in lat. from 36° 30' to 37° 02' N. and in long. 
from 1° 38' to 2° 12' W. of W. C. Though the Roanoke curves semi- 
circularly round the northern and eastern border of this county the slope is 
almost directly eastward. Dan river enters at the S. W. angle of the coun- 
ty, and flowing N. E. by E. over the county, receives within it Banister 
river from the N. W. and Hycootee from the S. W. and thus augmented, 
joins the Roanoke at the extreme eastern angle of the county. It is well 
watered, and has an excellent soil. Much first rate tobacco is raised in the 
county. Population in 1820, 19,060— in 1833,-28,034. Halifax belongs 
to the ninth judicial circuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $6216 
14_in 1834, on lots, $23 66— on land, $3218 43— 7727 slaves, $1931 75 
—5769 horses, $346 14—20 studs, $312 00—78 coaches, $203 20—81 
carryalls, $82 15—102 gigs, $61 10— Total, $6178 43: Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $704 21— in 1833, $690 76. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Barksdale, p. O. 246 ms. S. W. 
of W. and 156 S. W. by W. of R. 
situated between Dan and Banister 
rivers, 14 miles north of Halifax C. 
H. This village contains several 
dwelling houses, 1 Baptist house of 
public worship, 1 common school, a 
Sabbath school, a missionary and tem- 
perance society, an apothecary, wheel- 
wright, boot and shoe factory, and a 
blacksmith. The post office located 
at this place is perhaps the oldest es- 
tablishment in the county. The land 
of the surrounding country is light 
and sandy, remarkably free and pro- 
ductive, but easily exhausted. The 
staple commodity is tobacco. 

BANISTER, P. V. and seat of 
justice, situated on the south side of 
Banister river, 130 miles S, W. by 



W. of Richmond, and 220 S. W. of 
Washington; in lat. 36° 44' N. and 
long. 1° 58' W. of W. C. and about 
10 miles below the head of naviga- 
tion. Besides the usual county build- 
ings, it contains 25 dwelling houses, 
with a number of out hou.ses, mecha- 
nic's shops, &c. 2 spacious houses of 
public worship, 1 Episcopalian and 
the other Methodist, a large and hand- 
some Masonic Hall, (which has late- 
ly been erected of brick, in an elevat- 
ed and advantageous situation, about 
the middle of the village,) several 
handsome and commodious taverns, 3 
general stores, and 1 grocery. The 
mechanics are a saddler, coach maker, 
2 wheelwrights, 3 blacksmiths, 2 tai- 
lors, 1 cabinet maker, and 2 boot and 
shoe manufacturers. There are in 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HANOVER. 



185 



the vicinity 2 extensive flour manu- 
facturing mills, 2 saw mills, and 2 
cotton gins. The face of the country 
on each side of the village is very 
much broken, Avhich causes it to be 
very long and narrow, and the hous- 
es to be built in a scattering manner, 
except immediately around the court 
house, where all the stores and me- 



raercantile store; and in the vicinity, 
2 houses of public worship, I Baptist, 
and the other Presbj^erian. The 
country around is densely settled, and 
the land fertile, producing in abun- 
dance, tobacco, wheat, Indian corn, 
cotton, &c. 

Brooklyn, P. V. 148 ms. S. W. 
of R., and 238 from W. It contains 



chanic's shops arc located. Thevil-|12 dwelling houses, 1 mercantile 
lage is remarkable for its health, be- store, 1 druggist shop, 1 tanyard, 1 
ing well elevated by a gradual ascent boot and shoe factory, 1 coach and 
of three quarters of a mile from the vvagon maker, 1 tailor, 2 blacksmith 
river. It is situated on the main road [shops, and 1 house carpenter. The 
from Fredericksburg to the south. !situation is high and healthy. Pop- 
Seven stages pass through weekly, 'ulation 60 persons; 1 of whom is a 
and eleven mails are received at the physician. 

post office. There is a race course i Cextreton, P. O. 139 ms. S. W. 
in the neighborhood, over which ra- jby W. of R., and 229 from W. 
ces are run once a year. Population I Meadsville, 139 ms. S. W. of W. 
250 persons; of whom 3 are attorneys iand 229 from R., situated at the head 
and 3 physicians. |of navigation on Banister river, 20 

Coiuity Courts, are held on the|ms. from its junction with Dan river, 
ith Monday in every month: — Q^i^r- and 10 from the C. H. It contains 
terly in March, June, August and 12 dwelling houses, 2 general stores, 
November. 1 1 tobacco warehouse. 1 -iron foundry 

Judge Leigh holds his Circuit |and plough manufactory, 1 cabinet 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery i maker, 1 tanyard, 1 tailor, 1 black- 
on the 1st o{ Ajjril and Se'ptember. [smith, 2 extensive flour manufactur- 

Bexnett's Store, P. O. 146 ms. 'ing mills, a wool carding machine, 
S. W. of R., and 236 from W. jand a cotton gin. Population 70 per- 

Bentleysville, p. O. 115 ms. |sons; 1 of whom is a physician, 
from R., and 230 from W. I Mount Laurel, P. O. 115 ms. S. 

Black Walnut, P. O. 141 ms. W. of R., and 206 from W. 



S. W. of R., and 230 from W. 

Bloomsburgu, p. O. in the south- 
ern part of the county, 13 ms. S. of 
Bannister, 233 ms. S.' S. W. of W., 
and 143 S. W. by W. of R., situated 



Republican Grove, 149 ms. S. 
W. of R., and 239 from W. 

ScoTTSBURG, P. V. 135 ms. S. S. 
W. of R., and 235 from W. It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, 1 tavern, 



2 ms. S. of Dan river, and 8 ms. from 1 mercantile store, and 1 smith's shop, 
the North Carolina line, on the main Population 40. 

S. W. stage road leading from Wash- Warren's Store, P. O. 115 ms. 
ington City to Salisbury, N. C. andiS. W. by W. of R., and 205 from W. 
Milledgeville, Georgia. There are 'situated in the western part of the 
located here a dwelling house, and a county. 



HANOVER. 



Hanover was created by the legislature in 1720, from a part of New 
Kent County. It is bounded N. by the Pamunkev which separates it from 

24 



186 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HANOVER. 



Spottsylvaiiia, Caroline, and King William counties, E. by New Kent, S. 
by the Cliiokahominy to its source, separating it Irom Henrico, and by 
Goochland, and W. by Louisa. Its length is 45 ms., main width 14, 
and area GoO square ms.; and it extends in lat. from 37° 29', to 38° 05' N. 
and in long, from 0° 15,' to 0° 57' W. of W. C. The North Anna river 
bounds the county from its N. W. angle to its N. E. angle, — the South 
Anna enters the county near its S. W. extremity, and unites with the form- 
er, about the middle of the northern county line, and near the south eastern 
extremity of Caroline; the two then take the name of Pamunkcy, and 
uniting with the Mattopony at the south eastern extremity of King William 
County, form York river. The Chickahominy rises at the point at which 
Hanover, Goochland, and Henrico meet, and forming the county line of 
Hanover, it afterwards separates New Kent from Charles City, and turn- 
ing S. enters James river between the latter county and James City. The 
surface of Hanover is hilly, and the soil of every extreme, from best river 
alluvion, to barren sand. Population in 1820, 15,267 — 1830, 16,253. It 
belongs to the 7th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, 
$4,488 37 — in 1833-4, on lots, $5 11— on land, $2,617 04—4,655 slaves, 
$1,163 75—3,160 horses, $189 60—12 studs, $320 00—116 coaches, 
$263 00—1 stage, $2 00—28 carryalls, $28 00—178 gigs, $100 00. To- 
tal $1,689 40. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $165 20 — 
in 1833, $255 12. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Cold Harbour, Election Pre- 
cinct, near the S. E angle of the 
county. 

Dextoxsville, p. O. 22 ms. N. 
of R., and 144 from W. 

Green Bay, P. O. 94 ms. S. S. 
W. of W., and 52 ms. from R. 

HANOVER C. II. P. V. 20 ms. 
from R., and 102 from W., situated 
on the north side of Machunp's creek, 
immediately on the main stage road 
leading from Richmond to Frede- 
ricksburg, 46 ms. from the latter place, 
on the top of the first range of hills 
inclining down to the creek, and about 
1 mile above the junction of the creek 
with the Pamunky river. It is sit- 
uated in a pleasant and wealthy neigh- 
liourhood, the river running almost 
entirely round it, making very exten- 
sive and fertile flats, highly produc- 
tive in all kinds of grain usually cul- 
tivated in Virginia. The flat lands 
were naturally rich, and are now un- 
dergoing considerable improvement 
from the use o[ 'niarle, which abounds' 
on almost every estate in the neigh- 



bourhood. The marie in many in- 
stances is found several miles from 
the river, in very large and extensive 
beds, and very rich. This place con- 
tains a C. H., Clerk's office, and 2 
jails, a very large and commodious 
tavern with various other houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 blacksmith, and 1 
boot and shoe maker. Population 
about 50 persons of whom 1 is an at- 
torney. 

"Hanover C. H. is famed for being 
the arena on which the famous Pa- 
trick Hcrt.ri/ figured in early life. It 
was here that those speeches were de- 
livered by him that fired the bosoms 
of his coimtrymen ; and fixed and con- 
firmed them in the manly spirit that 
so soon displayed itself in the expedi- 
tion that was undertaken against Go- 
vernor Dunmore, commonly called 
the gunpowder expedition. It was 
here that the first company of armed 
men were formed and organized in 
opposition to Briti.'^.h tyranny, in Vir- 
ginia; and in the walls of the present 
C. II. that the splendid and manly el- 



E ASTE R N VIRGIN I A— II A NO VER. 



1R7 



oquencc of the illustrious Henry was 
first heard, felt and fully acknowledged 
by his countrymen, it was here that 
his vivid fancy taking wing rose to 
some of the most sublime heights that 
human genius is capable of attaining. 
It was here that on one occasion he 
received in common with his coun- 
trymen intelligence of the premeditat- 
ed aggressions against his country', by 
England, and inspired with the indig- 
nation -which such a communication 
Tvas calculated to produce on the mind 
of so intelligent, high minded and pa- 
triotic a spirit, he could not contain 
himself for a moment, and not seeking 
the customary rostrum he took ad- 
vantage of the first convenient eleva- 
tion which presented itself, and spoke 
in a strain, such as they had never be- 
fore heard from man. The effect was as 
he desired, he awakened and aroused 
them to a just estimate of the lawless 
rule premeditated by the British min- 
istry. The after ev^ents of his history 
are too well known to need commen- 
tarj'. 

To Hanover, also, the world is in- 
debted for one of the first orators and 
politicians now figuring in the arena 
of American politics — Henry Clay — 
Clay was born and reared within 3 
ms. of Hanover C. H. and the vene- 
ration in which this spot is held may 
hi judged from the fact, that passen- 
gers in almost every stage which pas- 
ses from time to time, are in the habit 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 2Gth of A'pril, and 15/A of Sep- 
tember. 

Hanoverton, p. O. 31 ms. N. E. 
of R., and 94 S. S. W. of W., situated 
on the right bank of the Pamunky 
river. 

MoNTPELiER, P. O. 24 ms. N. of 
R., and 112 ms. from W., situated on 
the main stage road, leading from 
Richmond to Louisa C. H. 60 ms. 
from the latter. 

Negro Foot, ElcrJion Precinct, 
in the western e:ctremity of the coun- 
ty, nearly equal distance from the 
northern and southern boundary. 

Newfound Mills, P. O. 36 
ms. N. of R., and 102 ms. S. S. W. 
of W. 

Tavlorsville, p. O., 28 ms. N 
of R., and 10(3 from W. 

Thompson's Store, P. O. 46 ms. 
N. of R., and 92 from W., situated in 
the northern part of the county. 

Old Church, P. O. 15 ms. N. of 
R., and 122 from W. 

Verdox, p. V. 30 ms. N. of R., 
and 105 from W. between the North 
Anna, and Little river, immediately 
on the latter ; and at the intersection 
of the roads leading from Hanover 
C. H. to Louisa C. H., and from the 
Bowling Green, in Caroline, to Rich- 
mond — 12 ms. from the first — 20 from 
the second, and 3.3 ms. both from 
Louisa C. H. and Goocliland C. H. 
In the vicinity arc several dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 cotton 



of g:'.tiag out and visiting the C. H. 
and lingering away the passing hours 'manufactory, 2 wheelwrights, 2 black- 
in reminiscences of the master spirits j smiths, and various other mechanics, 
that have rendered them illustriou.s. j Population 50. 

These same venerated walls havei \Voodlawn, P. O. in the N. W. 
also in more modern date, been made i part of the county, 30 ms. northward of 
to resound with the argumentative R., and 105 ms. S. W. by W. of W. 

C, situated immediately on the main 



genius, and sonorous voice of the de- 
parted Morris, who Avas also a na- 
tive of this old and venerable county. 



stage road, leading from R., to Louisa 
C. H., 23 ms. from the latter; and at 



County arvl Corporation Courts n.xe\i\\G head of several small streams, on 
held on the Ath Tuesday in evervlthe N. side of the South Branch of the 



^month: — Q'larterly in Feb. April, 
July, and October. 

Ju^DOE Clopton holds his Circuit 



Pamunky river. 



188 EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 

HENRICO. 

Henrico is bounded on the S. W. by James river, which separates it 
from Chesterfield; on the N. W. by Goochland; on the N. E. by Hanover 
and New Kent; and on the S. E. by the county of Charles City. Its mean 
length is 27 ms. ; mean breadth 10i| ms., and area 291 square ms., extend- 
ing in lat. from 37° 57' to 37° 4', and long. 0° 20' to 0° 49' W. of W. C. 
Henrico was one of the primitive counties or shires into which the colony 
was divided in 1634. Its territory was of course, at that time, very exten- 
sive, but repeated partitions in order to form other counties, have reduced 
it to its present comparatively small size. With the exception of the lands 
on James river, which are very fertile, the soil is generally light and un- 
productive. There are also some good farms on the Chickahominy, a 
small stream which divides the county from New Kent and Hanover, and 
enters James river above Jamestown. The surface is moderately undulat- 
ing, terminating in abrupt precipices both on the Chickahominy and James 
river bottoms. Richmond, the metropolis of Virginia, is situated in the 
centre of the county in reference to its length from N. W. to S. E. (See 
Richmond City.) About a mile below town, the famous Indian King 
Powhatan had one of his principal lodges. The estate has been long in 
the possession of the Mayo family, and is known by the name of its former 
Indian proprietor. The population of Henrico, in 1800, exclusive of Rich- 
mond, was 9,149 — and in 1830, according to the last census, 12,737 — shew- 
ing an increase of 3,588, or nearly 40 per cent, in 30 years. Of its popu- 
lation last ascertained, there were free whites, 5,716 — slaves, 5,932 — free 
colored, 1,089. Total 12,737. Taxes paid in 1833, $13,470 16~and in 
1834, on lots, $7,729 77— on Land, $3,170 73— on 7,580 slaves, $1,895— 
3,290 horses, $197 88—4 studs, $270 00—266 coaches, $698 25—62 
carryalls, $65 10—104 gigs, $79 95. Total $14,106 68. No report 
from school commissioners. The county is intersected by 3 good turnpike 
roads, having toll gates, — the Brook, Mechanicsville, and another leading 
to Petersburg on the north side of James river. There are few or no 
schools worthy of notice, except a Baptist Seminary, about 4 ms. from 
Richmond. The mass of the population are poor and uninformed, and are 
somewhat remarkable for a keen jealously of metropolitan influence. 

County Courts are held on the \st Monday in every month, and Quar- 
terly, March, June, August and November. 

Judge Clopton, holds his Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the 
^th of May, and 22^ of October. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



RICHMOND CITY, the metrop- 
olis of Virginia, is situated in the 
county of Henrico, on the north side 
of James river, and immediately at 
the great falls, or head of tide water. 
Lat. 37° 32' N., long. 25° 54' W. of 
W. Its location is uncommonly de- 
lightful, and has often excited the ad- 



picture Avhieh has ever been drawn 
of its natural beauties, is from the pen 
of the eminent and lamented author of 
the British Spy. " I have never met, 
says that enchanting writer, "with 
such an assemblage of striking and in- 
teresting objects. The town dispersed 
over hills of various shapes; the river 



miration of strangers. Perhaps thej descending from west to east, and ob 
most glowing, and yet most faithful Istructed by a multitude of small is- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



189 



lands, clumps of trees, and myriads of 
rocks; among which it tumbles, foams 
and roars; constituting- what are called 
the falls; the same river at the lower 
end of the town, bending at right an- 
gles to the south, and winding re- 
luctantly oft' for many miles in that 
direction; its polished surface caught 
here and there by the eye, but more 
generally covered from the view by 
the trees; among which the white 
sails of approaching and departing 
vessels exhibit a curious and interest- 
ing appearance: then again on the op- 
posite side, the little town of Man- 
chester built on a hill, w^hich sloping 
gently to the river, opens the whole 
town to the view, interspersed as it is 
with vigorous and flourishing pop- 
lars ; and surrounded to a great dis- 
tance by green plains and stately 
woods; — all these objects falling at 
once under the eye, constitute by far 
the most finely varied and most ani- 
mated landscape that I have ever 
seen." The truth and beauty of the 
foregoing sketch may be realised from 
numberless positions or points of view, 
extending from the high hills to the 
west, which overlook the James river 
canal, as far as the Church Hill, the 
eastern barrier of the city. From the 
latter elevation, perhaps the landscape 
combines greater variety and gran- 
deur, than from any other point. 
Shockce hill, however, is the favorite 
residence of the citizens. This is 
divided from the other by the valley 
of Shockoe creek, and is a high and 
spacious plain occupied by the princi- 
pal public buildings, and by nume- 
rous private edifices, some of which 
are of elegant and expensive con- 
struction. The Capitol, or Stale 
House, stands in the centre of a beau- 
tiful park or square, near the brow of 
the hill, and from its size and elevated 
position is the most conspicuous ob- 
ject in the city. The exterior of the 
building is of admirable proportions, 
and its fine columns of Ionic architec- 
ture seen from a distance, have a verv 



nnposing efTect. 
a model of the 
Nismes, — brouj 
from France. 



It was formed from 

Maison Carree at 

fht by Mr. Jefferson 

Its interior construc- 



tion, however, is neither elegant nor 
convenient. In a large open saloon 
or hall, in the centre of the building, 
is a marble statue of Washington, ex- 
ecuted with great skill by Hodoun, a 
French artist. There is also a bust of 
Lafayette, occupying one of the niches 
in the wall. Besides the statue it is 
still in contemplation to erect a superb 
monument to the memory of Wash- 
ington on the capitol square. The 
fund which was dedicated to this ob- 
ject was originally raised by private 
subscription, and is now loaned out 
at interest by direction of the legisla- 
ture. Its present amount is about 
$18,000. When this monument is 
erected, it will add to the attractions 
of one of the finest promenades in the 
Union. The square which contains 
about 9 acres, is enclosed by a hand- 
some railing of cast iron, and is or- 
namented by gravelled walks, and a 
variety of forest and other trees. The 
Governor'' s House is a plain, neat 
building, adjoining the square, and on 
a part of the public domain. The 
City Hall, Avhich is also contiguous 
to the State House, is a costly and 
elegant building of Doric architec- 
ture. It is devoted to the use of the 
City Courts and Council, and other 
ofii::ers of the Corporation, The 
other public buildings, are the Peni- 
tentiary and Manufactory of Arms — 
both extensive establishments, and 
well adapted to their respective pur- 
poses. The Bank of Virginia and 
Farmer^ s Bank, are connected iinder 
one roof, and together constitute a 
handsome edifice on the principal 
street. 

Richmond is not deficient in be- 
nevolent institutions. Besides a very 
spacious Poor House, which stands 
in the suburbs of the city, — there is 
a Female Orphan Asylum, supported 
in part by funds of the corporation, 



190 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



and partly by private liberality. Its 
funds have been principally raised 
however for several years past, by an 
annual fair held at the City Hall. 
This institution is incorporated by the 
legislature, and is under the manage- 
ment of female directors. There is 
also a school for the education of poor 
children of both sexes, upon the Lan- 
casterian system, founded in 1816, 
which with some fluctuations in its 
progress, is still in a prosperous con- 
dition. It is now under the superin- 
tendance of trustees appointed by the 
City Council, and is sustained by an 
animal contribution from the Literary 
fund of the state, together with an ap- 
propriation from the city treasury. A 
suitable building was erected for the 
accommodation of the school, soon 
after its first establishment, .and hun- 
dreds have received from it the bene- 
fits of elementary instruction, who 
would probably have been otherwise 
the victims of ignorance and depravity. 
The Cit)^ has not been so fortunate 
in other institutions for the cultivation 
of the mind. A few good schools it is 
true have occasionally existed, where 
a competent knowledge of the classics 
and some of the sciences might be ob- 
tained, but none of these sources of in- 
struction have been commensurate 
with the wants of the citizens. It is 
a reniarl:able circumstance, that the 
metropolis of the state, containing as 
it does considerable wealth aud popu- 
lation, — many distinguished and well 
informed men, and much boasted re- 
finement, should yet be destitute of a 
single academical institution. As far 
back as 1 803, a charter was obtained 
from the state by some of the promi- 
nent citizens, for the csiablishmcnt of 
an academy by lottery and private 
subscription. A few thousand dollars 
Avere raised, — a site was injudiciousl}' 
selected a mile beyond the limits of the 
city — and the basement stor}^ of the 
building erected, but no further pro- 
gress was made. Vv'ithin the present 
year, however, the vacancies in the 



Board of Trustees have been filled, 
and there is some prospect of reviving 
the institution. 

Besides this marked deficiency in 
the means of educating youth, there 
are fow or no associations of an intel- 
lectual character among persons of 
maturer years. Whilst the northern 
cities can boast of their literary and 
scientific societies, the capital of the 
ancient dominion scarcely contains 
one which deserves the name. An 
honorable exception, it is true, may be 
mentioned in the " Virginia Histori- 
cal^and Philosophical Society," which 
was established in 1831, and has since 
been incorporated; — but as its mem- 
bers are principally dispersed through 
the state, and kw of the citizens of 
Richmond manifest any zeal in its 
welfare, it can scarcely be considered 
an association of the city, either in its 
origin or character. About 20 years 
since a Museum was erected princi- 
pally by individual enlerprize ; which 
was designed as a repository of the 
fine arts, and of natural curiosities. 
This institution however, has for a 
long time languished for want of pa- 
tronage. 

Societies however of a moral and 
religious cast, are numerous, active, 
and flourishing. Various associa- 
tions exist for promoting temperance, 
for colonizing the free people of color, 
for aiding missionaries, for the distri- 
bution of the Bible and religious 
tracts, and for various other objects of 
a similar character. The encourage- 
ment also which is given to Sabbath 
schools is extensive and beneficial. 
The means of religious instruction 
are A-ery considerable, and probably 
in due proportion to the wants of the 
city. The Episcopalians have 3 
churches or houses of Avorship: — the 
Presbyterians 2, the Baptists 3, the 
Methodists 3, the Roman Catholics 1, 
and this last congregation arc noAv 
constructing a new and elegant build- 
ing, Avhich will probably rival any in 
the city for the style of its artichec- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



191 



ture. The Baptists Sccedcrs or fol- 
lowers of Alexander Campbell, have 
1 place of worship, — the Unitarians 
and Quakers 1 each, — and the Jews a 
handsome Synagogue in a retired and 
handsome situation. 

The Monumental Church, one of 
the three belonging to the Episcopa- 
lians, and of which the venerable 
Bishop of Eastern Virginia has long 
been the Rector, — has acquired a me- 
lancholy celebrity from the circum- 
stance that it occu] ij-s the site of the 
Richmond Theatre, which Vv'as de- 
stroyed by fire in December 1811; on 
which tragical occasion the Governor 
of the Commonwealth, and 70 or 80 
respectable persons of both sexes pe- 
rished miserably in the flames. Long 
will that mournful event be remem- 
bered by those who survived or wit- 
nessed its horrors ! — Either from the 
deep impressions which it produced 
or from other causes, — the taste for 
theatrical exhibitions has not kept 
pace with the increase of wealth and 
population. The commodious Thea- 
tre which succeeded the old one, — 
which is placed in a far more eligible 
situation, and is of much safer con- 
struction, is only occasionally patro- 
nized when the appearance of some 
attractive star, or celebrated performer 
is announced. 

Richmond was first established by 
act of Assembly, as early as 1742, and 
became the seat of Government of the 
state ill 1779. Various legislative 
acts have passed from time to time 
enlarging its corporate powers and 
privileges. Nine persons are an- 
nually chosen from each of the three 
Avards into which the city is divided, 
who when assembled elect out of their 
own body a recorder, and 1 1 alder- 
men, who exercise judicial functions. 
The same persons also elect from 
their own body, or from the citizens 
at large, a Mayor, who is both a ju- 
dicial anil executive officer. The re- 
maining 15 members constitute the 
legislative council of the citv, and as 



such, are authorized to raise and ap- 
propriate money, and to enact all such 
ordinances as are necessary for the due 
exeeution of the powers conferred by 
the charter. The valuation of real pro- 
perty within the city according to the 
assessment of 1833, was $G,G 14,550. 
The revenue raised for corporation 
purposes may be stt.tod in round num- 
bers at $00,000, besides which, the 
city contributed as its quota of the 
state tax in the year 1833, nearly 
$9,000. This large amount of taxa- 
tion is principally derived from real 
and personal property, and from li- 
censes to merchants, ordinary keep- 
ers, &c. The number of tcholesale 
merchants, paying license tax in 1833, 
as appears by the returns of the State 
Commissioner was 20 : — retail ditto 
326, auctioneers 7, lottery ticket ven- 
ders 7, ordinary keepers 43, and keep- 
ers of houses of private entertainment 
9. According to the same returns 
there were 739 horses and mules, 157 
coaches, 9 carryalls, and 54 gigs. 

The expenses of the city are con- 
siderable. The principal items of ap- 
propriation are ^12,000 for a sinking 
fund, to pay the interest, and redeem 
gradually the corporation debt; $4,000 
for the poor; $1,700 to the Lancaste- 
rian Free School and Orphan Asy- 
lum; $4000 for repairing the streets; 
and $8,500 for the support of a night 
watch. The remaining expenses are 
on account of the public markets, fire 
companies, salaries of officers, paving 
of streets and various contingencies. 
The city debt at this time amounts to 
$I3G,1.jO;— $95,000 of which, bear- 
ing an interest of 5 per centum only, 
was incurred on account of the icater 
loorks. These works were commen- 
ced in September 1830, under the di- 
rection of Albert Stein, an accomplish- 
ed Engineer from Holland, and were 
completed as far as originally design- 
ed, at the end of the ensuing year. 
Since that time, a second pump and 
wheel, and a third reservoir have 
been added ; making the cost of the 



192 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



whole work about $100,000. The 
pumps are each calculated lo raise 
from the river, and propel into the re- 
sevoirs at a distance of 800 yards, and 
at a considerable elevation 400,000 
gallons of water in 24 hours. These 
pumps are designed to operate alter- 
nately, either being competent to fill 
the reservoirs in sufficient time. The 
reservoirs Avill each of them contain 
1,000,000 gallons, — and double lines 
of pipes extend from them to the pump 
house on the margin of the river. 
The main pipe from the resevoirs to 
the intersection of H. and 1st streets 
is 2,058 yards in length; and the 
smallest pipes extend from this thro' 
the principal streets, lessening in di- 
ameter to the point of greatest depres- 
sion from the level of the resevoirs, a 
distance of about 3 ms. Fire plugs 
are placed at convenient distances 
along the line of pipes, and afford an 
ample supply of Avater for extinguish- 
ing fires. In the lower part of the 
city the pressure is sufficient to force 
the Avater to the tops of the houses 
through hose, Avithout the aid of en- 
gines. Three hundred and forty 
houses and tenements are already 
furnished Avith AA^ater, and the rents 
Avhich are daily increasing, amount 
at this time, April 1834, to $4,000. 
The annual expense of superintend- 
ance, &.c. is $1,000. These Avorks 
may justly be considered the pride of 
the city. The Avater Avhich they sup- 
ply is not only pure and Avholesome, 
but for a considerable part of the year 
is sufficiently clear to be used Avithout 
fillers. 

The exports of domestic produce 
from Richmond to foreign countries 
are very considerable. In the j^ear 
1833, their A'alue in American A^essels, 

was $2,466,360 00 

And in foreign A-essels, 498,131 00 



Making the ag'rt. of $2,964, 491 00 

The value of domestic produce 

shipped coastAvise to the principal 

Northern Cities, cannot be ascertain- 



ed correctly. It is belicA'ed to be at 
least equal if not greater than the 
amount exported to foreign countries, 
and if such be the fact, the total value 
of produce shipped, may be estimated 
at nearly $6,000,000. The import 
trade, hoAA'ever, bears no proportion to 
the other. The value of merchan- 
dize imported into the district of Rich- 
mond I'rom foreign countries for the 
year 1833,amount^cdto only $209,963, 
and the duties paid to the Govern- 
ment of the United States to $75,120. 
Of this latter sum, $7,197 Avas paid on 
merchandize brought by foreign ves- 
sels. 

In 1833, 5 schooners, 9 barks, 37 
brigs, and 30 ships, in all 81 vessels, 
cleared from the port of Richmond for 
foreign countries, the tonnage Avhereof 
amounted to 22,331, or an aA'erage of 
275 tons to each vessel. In the same 
year 4 schooners, 6 brigs, 2 barks, 
and 3 ships entered from foreign 
countries, — making in the aggregate, 
3,412 tons, or 227 lo each vessel. 

No inconsiderable part of the pro- 
duce shipped from the city is brought 
doAvn the James River Canal. This 
important improA'ement commences 
at Maiden's Adventure, on James ri- 
ver about 30 miles distant, and termi- 
nates in a deep and commodious basin 
in the heart of the tOAvn. The tolls 
paid to the James RiA-er Company on 
produce descending in the year 1833, 
amounted to $43,949, and on A-arious 
articles carried up the Canal to 
$10,139, making in the aggregate, 
$54,088. Among the items brought 
doAA'n, may be enumerated upAvards 
of 15,000 hhds. of tobacco, 152,000 
barrels of flour, 133,000 bushels of 
AA'heat, 677,664 bushels of coal, 1,374 
tons of bar and pig iron ; and 2,230- 
900 lbs. of manufactured tobacco. 
Among the ascending articles may be 
mentioned, nearly 31,000 sacks of 
salt, 297 tons of bar and pig iron, and 
upAvards of 3,000 tons of plaster, 
lime, &c. 

The proximity of the coal mines to 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



193 



Richmond, constitutes that mineral a 
valuable article of commerce. Be- 
sides the quantity brought down the 
canal, there were more than 2,000,000 
of bushels (4 pecks to the bushel) 
transported on the Chesterfield Rail 
Road in 1833, the tolls on which 
amounted to $87,813 30. The Ches- 
terfield Rail Road, terminate.? on the 
Manchester side of the river, and de- 
serves to be honorably mentioned as 
the first successful enterprize of the 
kind in the state of Virginia. It was 
planned and executed under the di- 
rection of Moncure Robinson, a dis- 
tinguished. Engineer, and it owes 
much in its original design and final 
accomplishment, to the perseverance 
and patronage of Mr. Mills, one of the 
few proprietors of its stock, and an 
owner of one of the extensive coal 
mines at the upper termination of the 
road. 

James river from Richmond to the 
ocean, presents a tedious and some- 
what obstructed navigation. This 
with the circumstance that she is sur- 
rounded by rival towns, each having 
its peculiar advantages of location, — 
will probably prevent the metropolis 
from ever attaining a high degree of 
commercial importance. There is no 
doubt, however, of its final destination 
as a manufacturing city, — as there is 
probably no spot in the Union en- 
dowed "by nature with finer facilities 
for that kind of industry. From the 
commencement of the rapids a {ew 
miles above, the fall is upwards of 
100 feet to the level of tide Avater, and 
in all this space there is scarcely a 
limit to the extent of water power 
which exists. In the city and its vi- 
cinity, there are already i^everal flour- 
ishing establishments which deserve 
to be mentioned. The Gallcgo Flour 
Mills having been destroyed by fire 
in the spring of 1833, their present 
proprietor, Mr. Chevallie, is rebuild- 
ing them at a more convenient site on 
the bank of the James river basin, and 
upon a much more improved and en- 
25 



larged plan. The mill house which 
is nearly completed, is G stories high 
from the foundation and covered with 
tin. It is 94 feet long by 83^ wide, 
and is calculated for 20 pair of stones 
to be worked by 3 water wheels. 
Connected Vv-ith it is another building 
80 feet square, and 4 stories high, in 
which the wheat will be received and 
cleaned. The two together present a 
front on the basin of 163^ feet, and 
the whole appearance is very impos- 
ing. The old Gallego Mills ground 
upwards of 290,000 bushels of wheat 
in the 8 months preceding their de- 
struction. It is probable that the ope- 
rations of the new establishments will 
be much more extensive. The Gal- 
lego brand, and indeed that of the 
City Mills generally, has acquired 
much celebrity in the South American 
markets and elsewhere. 

HaxalVs Mills, have also a high 
reputatioii: they are 5 stories high 
and of nearly equal dimensions wnh 
Chevallie's. They work 14 pair of 
stones, with 4 water whet^ls, and grind 
about 200,000 bushel.'=! wheat annual- 
ly. This year that quantity will pro- 
bably be exceeded, as it is contemplat- 
ed to add 4 additional pair of stones. 

Rutherford's Mill works 8 pair of 
stones by 2 water wheels, and grinds 
about 90,000 bushels of wheat an- 
nually. 

Maijo's Mill in Manchester oppo- 
site to Richmond, works 6 pair of 
stones by 3 water wheels, and grinds 
also about 90,000 bushels of wheat 
annually. 

In the city and its vicinity, there 
are 5 corn or grist mills, 2 manufac- 
tories for cut nails, and rolling and 
slitting iron, 2 saw mills, and 1 iron 
foundery, whose operations are exten- 
sive. 

The Rich:noncl Cotton Mamufacio- 
ry is a large and important establish- 
ment. It was established by Cun- 
ningham &. Anderson, in tlie year 
1829, and sold by them with all its 
appendages, to the Ric hmond Manu 



194 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRICO. 



facturing Company, incorporated by 
an act of the Virginia legislature in 
the winter of 1831- The building is 
of stone and brick, 4 stories high, 146 
feet long, and 44 feet wide, situated 
upon the north bank of the James, a 
few hundred yards west of the Armo- 
ry, receiving its water power from the 
James river canal, immediately below 
the Penitentiary. The water is also 
conveyed from the canal in iron pipes 
of G inches bore to the building, thence 
up the stair-way to within 5 feet of 
the eaves, from which in case of acci- 
dent by fire, every floor except the 
upper one, can be flooded in a few se- 
conds, by simply turning a <.ock and 
using a hose. In this factory are em- 
ployed from 60 to 70 Avhite operatives 
and 130 blacks, from the age of 14 
and upwards: — a large proportion of 
both descriptions are females. It 
runs 3,776 spindles, and 80 looms, 
together Avith all the necessary pre- 
paratory machinery for spinning and 
weaving, of the most approved kinds, 
and consumes about 1,500 pounds of 
raw cotton per day. 

The fabrics are heavy, — negro 
shirtings 29 inches wide, 4-4 sheet- 
ings and 5 shirtings of No. 16 yarn, 
and cotton yarns from No. 5 to 20 — 
all of which are celebrated for their 
superior quality. The capital em- 
ployed is $120,000. 

The Gallcgo Mamifacturing Com 
fcumj was incorporated in January 
1834, and the capital subscribed is 
$150,000. The buildings which it is 
supposed, will be commenced the pre 
sent year, will be located near the 
Gallego Mills. The Franklin Com- 
pani/ for the manufacture of paper, 
has also been recently incorporated, 
and the capital nearly subscribed. 

Besides the manufactures produced 
at the Penitentiary on state account, 
the city has its due proportion of the 
various mechanic trades, and private 
manufactories. Of printing establish- 
ments there are as many as 1 1, (per- 
haps an undue proportion) from 2 of 



which there are issvied dail5% political 
and commercial papers, — from 1, a 
semi-weekly political, — from 3, week- 
ly Religious, — and from 1, a monthly 
journal devoted to literature, «&c. The 
others arc either Book or Job Offices. 
The number of professional men is 
also considerable, and it is the more 
remarkable that so many members of 
the medical faculty should find em- 
ployment in a city proverbial for the 
salubrity of its climate. Situated at 
the point of demarcation between the 
upper and lower districts, it is fortu- 
nately exempt from many of the mal- 
adies which are peculiar to both re- 
gions. It is neither visited by the 
enervating autumnal diseases of eas- 
tern Virginia, nor by the more violent 
and inflammatory attacks which be- 
long to the upper country. The yel- 
low fever that scourge of cities more 
populous and commercial, has never 
prevailed. 

The population of Richmond has 
nearly trebled in 30 years. By the 
census of 1800, the free whites num- 
bered, 2,837 

Slaves, 2,293 

Free colored persons, - - 607 



5,737 

By the census of 1830, the free 

whites amounted to - - - 7,755 

Slaves, - 6,349 

Free colored, 1,956 



16,060 
The sevei'al classes have increased 
in nearly corresponding ratios. 

Richmond has been frequently re- 
proached for a want of hospitality, and 
if this virtue consists in unreserved 
and indiscriminate attention to stran- 
gers and visitors, — the reproach is 
probably not altogether unfounded. 
It must he acknowledged too, that the 
manners and customs of what are 
called the leading classes, are not 
characteristic of the old Virginia cha- 
racter, which was frank, simple and 
unostentatious. In almost all consid- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— HENRY. 



195 



erable towns, even in republican 
America, artificial castes or classes 
exist, which are founded principally 
upon the possession of wealth, or the 
mysterious refinements of fashion, 
and have but little reference either to 
moral or intellectual distinction. It 
is probable that this vice of cities is 
one of the chief sources of that preju- 
dice which is felt towards them by the 
people of the country. These re- 
marks, however, are not to be con- 
strued into a sweeping censure upon 
towns, — for althoug-h in all dense 
populations, there is always a greater 
or less degree of human infirmity, — 
there is also an equal concentration of 
the more virtuous and noble qualhies 
of our nature. 



Corporation Courts are held for the 
City of Richmond, on the Friday be- 
fore the last Monday in every month: 
Quarterly in February, May, j^ugust 
and November. Terms of the Gene- 
ral Court SiXe held on the \st Monday 
in July and December. Circuit Court 
of United States, at Richmond, on 
the 22nd of May and November. The 
Federal District Court on the \5th 
of May, and November. 

Bellona, p. O. 2 ms. N. of Bel- 
lona Arsenal, Chesterfield Co. and 
10 ms. of R., situated on the main 
road, leading from Richmond to 
Charlottesville, 

Short Pump, P. O., situated 12 
ms. from R., and 134 from W. 



HENRY. 

Henry was created by the Legislature in 1776, from a part of Pittsyl- 
vania county. It is bounded N. by Franklin, — E. by Pittsylvania, — S. by 
Rockingham Co. North Carolina, — and W. by Patrick. It is nearly in 
the form of a rhomb; and its mean length 20^ miles, mean breadth 17^ 
and area 357 square miles. It extends in lat. from 36° 30' to 36° 50' N. 
and in long, from 2° 41' to 3° 08' W. of W. C. Its extreme southwestern 
angle is crossed by the two branches of Mary's river, but the greater part 
of the area of the county is included in the valley of Smith's river, which 
enters the county near its N. W. angle and leaves it near the N. E. angle. 
Population in 1820, 5,624,— in 1830, 7,100. Henry belongs to the tenth 
judicial circuit and fifth district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $1117 16 — in 
1833-4.— On lots, $9 66— on land, $642 26— on 1538 slaves, $384 50— 
1409 horses, $84 54—5 studs, $51 00—6 coaches, $16 50—8 carryalls, 
$8 00 — 11 gigs, $5 50. Total, $1201 96. Expended in education of 
poor children in 1832, $149 52— in 1833, $277 11. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



W. 



284 



and 



DixviLLE, P. O. 199 ms. S 
by W. of R. and 291 from W. 

Leatherwoods Store, P. O 
ms. from W. and 192 from R. 

MARTINSVILLE, P. V. 
county seat, situated near the left bank 
of Irvine or Smith river, about 70 
ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 207 ms. S. 
W. by W. of Richmond, and 299 
from W. C. Besides the ordinary 



county buildings which are spacious 
and handsomely built of brick — the 
court house being enclosed with a 
brick wall and having a well of ex- 
cellent water attached: It contains 8 
dwelling houses, 2 taverns, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 tanyard, and several 
mechanic shops. This little village 
is fast improving, — it is remarkable 
for the good health of its inhabitants ; 



195 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ISLE OF WIGHT. 



being situated on a beautiful emi- 
nence, commanrling an extensive view 
of the surrounding country, and well 
supplied with excellent springs. Seve- 
ral buildings are being erected. Popu- 
lation, 50 whites, of whoiTi 3 are phy- 
sicians ; and 34 blacks. 

County Courts are iield on the 2nrZ 
Monday in every month: Quarterly 
in March, June, A^igust and Novein- 
ber. 

Judge Saundehs holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the \st of May and October. 

Traylorsville, p. O. 305 ms. 
S. W. of W. and 213 from R.— situ- 
ated in the vv'estern part of the coun- 
ty, 6 miles from Martinsville and 16 
from the North Carolina line, on the 



main southern post read leading from 
Salem, N. C. to f^incastle, Botetourt 
Co., in a romantic position, among 
hills, rivers and creeks. It com- 
mands a magnificent view of the 
Blue Ridge, and its collateral ranges. 
There is great variety in the soil in 
the neighborhood, the land being of a 
free, productive character, and well 
watered ; but not very fertile except on 
the water courses. At this place there 
are strong indications of gold and iron, 
which are thought lo be abundant in 
this section of country. There are 
located here a mercantile store, sad- 
dler, house of entertainment, and a 
blacksmith shop. Population 25 per- 
sons: one of whom ij; a physician. 



ISLE OF WIGHT. 



Isle of Wioht was one of the eight original shires, into which A^ir- 
ginia was divided in 1634. Its name was originally Warrosquycake 
shire. It is bounded N. by James river, which separates it from .tames 
City, and Warwick counties, — E. and S. by Nansemond, — W. by Black- 
water river, which separates it from Southampton, — and N. W. by Surry. 
Its length is 37 miies, width 1 1 ; and area 407 square miles ; and it extends 
inlat. from 36° 38' to 37° 07' N. and in long, from 0° 02' to 0° 36' E. of 
W. C. This count)/ inclines to the N. E. and S. W. towards the James 
and Blackwater. It has many creeks and swamps upon its surface, and 
a great variety of soil, though it is generally thin and sandy. 

Population in 1820, 10,139—1830, 10,517. It belongs to ihc first judi- 
cial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $1840 95; in 1833-4 — 
on lots, $94 34— on land, $906 62—2178 slaves, $544 50— 1 176 horses, 
$70 56— 7 studs, S68 00—25 coaches, $59 90—6 carryalls, $6 00—219 
gigs, $125 62. Total, $1876 54. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $442 98; in 1833, $375 40. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



CoROWAUGH, Stcamp, Creek, and 
P. O in theS. W. part of the county, 
35 miles S. W. of Norfolk, 101 ms. 
from R. and 223 from W. 

ISLE OF WIGHT C. H. P. O. 
situated near the centre of the county, 
89 miles S. E. by E. of R. and 35 
ms. a little N. of W. Norfolk. 

County Courts are held on the 1.";^ 



Monday in every month ; Qiiarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the fourth of May and seventh of 
October. 

Mayfield, p. V. 72 ms. from R. 
and 195 from W. This little village 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. 



197 



stands upon 'one of the handsomest 
and most highly improved situations 
in the county, about 14 miles W. of 
Smithfidd, 13 S. of Surrv C. H. 12 
N. of Isle of Wiirht C. H. and 28 
N. of Jerusalem, the seat of pistice 
of Southampton county. 

Smithfield, p. V. in the northern 
part of the county, 80 ras. S. E. by E. 
of R. and 204 from W. C. It is situ- 
ated on the south side of Pagan creek, 
a bold and navigable stream, 3 ms. 
from James river and 15 above Hamp- 
ton Roads, on an elevated bank, about 
25 feet above the waters of the creek ; 
commanding a beautiful view of both 
land and water scenery, — the country 
for 10 ms. on the opposite side of 
James river is in full view. 

It contains 350 houses, some of 
them handsome, 10 general stores, 
and one apothecary shop, 3 spacious 
houses of public worship, 1 Episco- 
palian, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist, 1 
hotel kept in the best style, and seve- 
ral boarding houses, a male and a 
female academy, in which are taught 
all the branches of polite education, 4 



other schools containing' generally 
150 pupils jointly, children being 
sent here to school from the surround- 
ing country, and some from great 
distances, in consequence of the heal- 
thiness of the place. The mechani- 
cal pursuits are 1 saddler, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 tailors, working constantly 
several hands, 2 coach making estab- 
lishments, 1 extensive tannery ; and 
in the vicinity 2 cotton manufactories. 
The Bacon curing business is car- 
ried on here to great perfection, more 
extensively and perhaps more profit- 
ably than in any other place in the 
U. S. The bacon cured here has 
long been celebrated for its superior 
flavor, and the manner in which it is 
cured ; — large quantities of it are 
shipped annually in coasting vessels; 
it commands the preference in all the 
markets, and it is a source of great 
revenue. The village is located on 
the main post road leading from Pc- 
tersburg to Norfolk 60 ms. from the 
former, and 40 from the latter. Popu- 
lation 850 persons; of whom 3 are 
attorneys and 3 regular physicians. 



JAMES CITY. 



James City was one of the eight original shires, into which Virginia 
•was divided by the Legislature in 1634. It is bounded on the N. and N. 
W. by New Kent, W. by the Chickahominy river, which separates it from 
Charles City ; S. by James river, Avhich separates it from Surry, and E. 
by Warwick and York counties, and York river, separating it from Glou- 
cester. Its length is 23 miles; its mean breadth 8; and area 184 square 
miles; and it extends in lat. from 37° 09' to 37° 25' N. and in long, from 
0° 03' to 0° 24' E. of W. C. The surface of the county is in undulating 
hills. Population in 1820, 3,161 — 1830,^3,838. It belongs to the third 
judicial circuit; and second district. Ta'x paid in 1832-3, $655 44, in 
1833-4 on land, 303 41—1001 slaves, 8250 25—397 horses, $23 82—2 
studs, $30 00—8 coaches, $17 00—2 carryalls, $2 00—81 gigs, $43 80. 
Total, $670 28. In 1832 no school commissions report. Expended in 
1833 in educating poor children, $54 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

James Town. This town the firstlnow no longer exists as a place of 
British settlement in America (1607,) 'resort to the merchant or artizan; but 



198 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. 



the spot on which it stood must ever 
be full of interest to the Antiquarian 
and the Historian. The land on 
which it stood has been for a number 
of years in the family of the Amblers, 
and has been for some time past in 
cultivation. The only relic of the 
olden time, which is pointed out to 
the traveller, as he hurries past with 
the swiftness of the wind in the fleet 
and beautiful and modern steamers 
■*Chich navigate the James, is an 
old chimney, which we believe be- 
longed to a church. This old town, 
stood on a point of land projecting 
into James river in the southern part 
of James City Co., in lat. 37° 12' and 
long. 0° 14' E. of W. C. 

Stith, in his history of Virginia, 
(p. 160) says that in the latter end of 
June 1619 Sir George Yeardley, then 
Governor, called the first assembly 
that was ever held in Virginia, at 
Jamestown ; which at that time and 
for many years afterwards was called 
James City. Counties not being then 
laid off, the representatives of the 
people were elected by townships : 
the Boroughs of Jamestown, Hen- 
rico, Bermuda Hundred and others, 
sending their members to the assem- 
bly; from which circumstances, the 
lower house was first called the House 
of Burgesses. The acts of this as- 
sembly, says Stith, were remitted to 
England and presented to the London 
Company, to be read in the court on 
the 20th March following; for the 
company had then the regal power of 
confirming or annulling the acts of 
assembly. 

We refer to the compendious his- 
tory of Virginia, iu the first part of 
this work, for more information con- 
cerning the history of James Town. 

WILLIAMSBURG, P. T. and 
seat of justice for James City county, 
situated on the summit level between 
the rivers of York and James ; six 
miles distant from each, though navi- 
gable streams for small vessels ap- 
proach on either side, within one 



mile of the city, 60 miles E. of R. 
12 N. of York Town, and 163 miles 
from W.— lat. 37° 16' and long. 0° 
20' E. of W.; immediately on the 
line dividing the counties of York 
and James City, embracing a part of 
each county in the corporation. This 
little city, though it has not advanced 
much in wealth or population, has 
many very interesting claims on the 
student of the U. S. It Avas the 
cradle of our political existence, and 
for a long time the seat of govern- 
ment of "infant Virginia." It now 
contains about 200 dwelling houses, 
some of which are going fast to de- 
cay, and more than 1500 inhabitants, 
many of whom are wealthy. It is 
pleasantly laid out in parallel streets, 
with a pleasant square in the centre 
of more than 10 acres, where is situ- 
ated the Court-house, Clerk's Office, 
and Markethouse, lately built, through 
which runs the principal street, east 
and west, one mile in length and more 
than 100 feet in width. There is also 
a beautiful green square fronting the 
old Palace, which was formerly the 
residence of the Colonial Governor. 
At one end of this street stands the 
remains of' the old Capitol, Avhich 
was consumed by fire, in April, 1832, 
and at the other William and Mary 
College. The place where this city 
now stands, and the adjacent country, 
was first known by the name of the 
Middle Plantations, and was settled 
in 1632, by drafts from the adjoining 
settlements, principally from James 
Town, 7 miles distant. This place 
became the scat of government of 
this colony in 1698, some short time 
previous to which a great fire occur- 
red at Jamestown, Avhich consumed 
the public records, and a larger part 
of the town, and continued as such 
until 1779, when it was removed to 
Richmond. The old Raleigh Ta- 
vern, where many important commit- 
tees of the Legislature met — where 
some of our most distinguished pa- 
triots concerted measures for aiding 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. 



199 



in the arduous strug^gle for liberty, 
and where, it is said, Richard H. Lee 
and others originated the plan to es- 
tablish corresponding committees 
throughout many or all of the colo- 
nies, is yet remaining, and is occu- 
pied as a public house ; over the por- 
tico of which is placed a bust of Sir 
Walter Raleigh. William and Mary 
College, which was founded in 1693, 
during the reign of William and Mary, 
who granted to it a donation of 20,000 
acres of land; is situated at this 
place, and with various fortunes of 
advance and recession, has continued 
to exist as a respectable Literary In- 
stitution. Besides this donation it 
received a penny a lb. duty, on cer- 
tain tobaccos, exported from Virginia 
and Maryland, which had been levied 
by the statute of the 25th of Charles 
II. The Assembly also gave it, by 
temporary laws, a duty on liquors 
imported, and skins and furs export- 
ed. From these resources it received 
upwards of £3000, communibus an 



men already prepared for entering on 
the sciences, they were discouraged 
from resorting to it, and thus the 
school for Mathematics and Moral 
Philosophy, which might have been 
of some service, became of very lit- 
tle. The revenues too were exhaust- 
ed in accommodating those who came 
only to acquire the rudiments of sci- 
ence. After the revolution, the Visi- 
tors, having no power to change those 
circumstances in the constitution of 
the College, which were fixed by the 
charter, and being therefore confined 
in the number of professorships, un- 
dertook to change the object of the 
professorships. They excluded the 
two schools for Divinity, and that for 
the Greek and Latin languages, and 
substituted others. At present it has 
19 acting Visitors, and is under the 
superintendency of a President and 5 
Professors, embracing the Professor 
of Humanity, who has charge of the 
classical department. There is also 
a Law department in this Institution. 



nis. The buildings are of brick and -Fronting the building is a beautiful 



sufficiently large for the accommoda- 



tion of 100 students. By its charter the walk leading from the gate to the 



dated the 8th of February 1692, it 
was placed under the direction of not 
less than 20 Visitors, and to have a 
President and 6 Professors, who were 
incorporated. It was formerly al- 
lowed a representative in the General 



green square, of about 4 acres, In 



College, stands the marble statue of 
Norborne Berkeley, (Lord Botte- 
tourt,) who was formerly Governor of 
Virginia, and a man distinguished 
for love of piety, literature, and in the 
early part of his administration 



Assembly. Under this charter a pro-|good government, Avhich was removed 
fessorship of the Greek and Latin jfrom the old Capitol in 1797, Avhere 
languages, a professorship of Mathe-it was first erected, at the expense of 
matics, one of Moral Philosophy, and the colony, in 1774. It is much 
two of Divinity were established, mutilated, though it still presents a 

specimen of superior sculpture. 



To these Avere annexed, for a sixth 
professorship, a considerable donation, 



very respectable Female 



A 

Academy, 



by Mr Boyle of England, for the in-jand 3 other private schools are estab 



struction of the Indians and their 
conversion to Christianity. This was 
called the professorship of Braflerton 



lished in this place. 

There is also here a Lunatic Hos- 
pital, sufficiently large for the accom- 



from an estate of that name in Eng-lmodation of 60 patients, in separate 
landpurchased with the monies given. [rooms or cells; and an addition is 
The admission of the learners of now making to enlarge the building, 
Latin and Greek filled the College|by an increase of 24 cells. The hos- 
Avith children. This rendering itjpital is neatly kept and the patients 
disagreeable, and degrading to youngjarc well attended. Besides the court 



200 EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING &, QUEEN. 

house, and other public buildings [This city is remarkably healthy for 
mentioned, there i.s a public jail, an !9 months of the year. It has the 
Episcopal church, Methodist chapel, j reputation of being unhealthy the re- 
maining 3 months, though for many 
years past it has been quite the reverse. 
County Courts are held on the 2cZ 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

JuDGK Upshur holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 7th of April and the 22^Z 
of October. 



and one Baptist meeting house. The 
public buildings were no doubt erect- 
ed at great expense, but now present 
the appearance of decaying grandeur. 
There are also 16 stores, 1 manufac- 
tory a short distance from the city, 4 
merchant mills in the vicinity, 3 tan- 
yards, I saddler's shop, and a num- 
ber of mechanics, who are generally 
employed, 2 benevolent societies, 9 
attornies, and 5 regular phj-sicians. 



KING &L aUEEN. 

King &- GIueen was created by act of the Colonial Legislature in 1691, 
in the third year of the reign of William and Mary, and formed out of a 
part of New Kent county. It is bounded by Caroline on the N. W. — Es- 
sex N. E. — Piankatank river, separating it from Middlesex, E. — Gloucester 
S. E. — James river S. — and Matapony river, separating it from King Wil- 
liam S. W. and W. — Its length is 40 miles, mean width 1 1, and area 335 sq. 
miles — Extending in lat. from 36° 27' to 37° 56' N. and in long, from 0° 
18' E. to 0° 13' W. of W. C. The surface slopes southward towards Ma- 
tapony river, or southeastward towards Piankatank. Large and extensive 
batiks of marie run entirely through the county, which furnish an inex- 
haustible source of improvementto this once barren soil: many of the most 
enterprising farmers have tried it, and the land which previously produced 
only six to eight bushels of maize or Indian corn to the acre, now bring 20 
and 25; and as might be anticipated from such a result a considerable spirit 
of improvement has been excited among the farmers. Marshes abound in 
this county, and if reclaimed would doubtless prove valuable. — No county 
in the state contains memorials of greater magnificence than King &- Queen, 
— on the Matapony a beautiful stream which borders the southern part of 
the county, till it empties into the York river, arc the vestiges of many an- 
cient and once highly improved seats. — Among these we might enumerate 
LancviUe — Pleasant Hill — Newington — Mantapihe — Mantua — Rickohoc 
— White Hall, i^-r. — known as the former residences of the Braxtons, Cor- 
bins, Robinsons, &c. The prevailing religion of King ifc Queen, is that 
of the Baptists, who have seven chuiches, and five ministers. The Metho- 
dists have four houses of public worship. There is one free for all deno- 
minations, and one belonging to the reformed Baptists (or Campbellites.) 
There are four classical, and many common schools ; one extensive manufac- 
turing flour mill, and 25 others, and 2 lanyards. Population 1820, 11,798 
— in 1830, 1 1,611. This county belongs to the fourth judicial circuit and 
second district. Taxes paid in l"833, $2340 91— in 1834, on lots, $1 79— 
on land, $1042 18—3064 slaves, $766 00—1439 horses, $86 34—5 studs, 
$82 00— 50 coaches, $127 00—1 stage, $2 50—10 carryalls, $12 30— 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING & aUEEN. 



201 



315 gigs, $176 20— Total, $2296 31. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832,8320 22— in 1833,8329 37. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bruinoton, p. O. 3G miles N. E. 
of R. and 240 from Washington; — 
situated in the N. E. part of the 
county. 

Carlton's Store, P. 0. 44 ms. 
E. of R. and 137 from W. 

Clarkston, p. O. 32 ms. N. E. 
of R. and 1 15 from W. 

Dunkirk, P. O. some times called 
TodcVs bridge, 54 ms. N. E. of R. 
and 140 S. W. of W.— It is situated 
on the left bank of Mattapony river, 
at the head of tide water, 60 miles a- 
bove York Town, on the main post 
road leading from Richmond to Tap- 
pahannock, 22 miles from the latter. 
It now contains only one mercantile 
store, and two dwelling houses. This 
place was at one time a village of 
considerable trade, it was the depot 
for the merchandise, and much of the 
agricultural produce of the contigu- 
ous upper country; but its extreme 
sickliness combined with other caus- 
es, has nearly obliterated it from ex- 
istence. There is a toll bridge across 
the Mattapony at this place, owned by 
a private individual. 

KING «fc aUEEN C. H. 49 ms. 
from Richmond, and 142 from Wash- 
ington, — situated on the flat lands of 
the Mattapony, about three quarters i 
of a mile from the river. It contains! 
besides the usual county buildings, 4J 
dwelling houses, 2 miscellaneous; 
stores, a tavern, a magazine, and a tan-j 
yard. There is in the vicinity a flour! 
manufacturing mill and a gristmill! 
which also has machinery for grinding! 
and packing cotton. Population 14| 
whites ; of whom 1 is an attorney, and 1 
a physician, and 40 colored — total 54.! 
This village is proverbially unhealthy, ' 
being nearly surrounded by marshes, 
— to this circumstance may be attri- 
26 i 



buted the small amount of its popula- 
tion. 

County Courts are held on the 2(i 
Mo7iday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and NovW. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 1st Monday in May and 
November. 

Little Plymouth, P. V. 57 ms. 
N. E. by E. of R. and 150 from W. 
situated in the southern part of the 
county. It contains 7 dwelling hous- 
es, one female seminary, which ave- 
rages from 25 to 30 pupils, one com- 
mon school, two coach and gig manu- 
factories, 2 mercantile stores, and 2 
smithshops. Population 50 persons; 
of whom one is a physician, 

Newtown, P. V. 38 ms. N. E. of 
R. and 99 S. W. of Washington — 
situated in the northern part of the 
county 3 miles north of the Mattapo- 
ny river. It contains 20 dwelling 
houses, one house of public worship 
belonging to the reformed Baptists (or 
desciples of Campbell,) 1 male semi- 
nary, averaging 30 pupils, 2 mercan= 
tile stores, a tailor, boot and shoe ma- 
ker, and a blacksmith, <fcc, Popula- 
tion 75. 

Patrick, P. O. The distances 
not mentioned on the P. O. list. 

Shackleford's, p. O. 67 ms. from 
R. and 160 S. of W. 

Stevensville, p. 0. 31 ms. N. 
E. of R. and 130 S. of W. 

Walkerton, p. O. 30 ms. N. E. 
of R. and 123 S. of W.— handsomely 
situated on the west bank of the Mat- 
tapony river, 10 miles from King Jf 
Queen C. H. and from Dunkirk. It 
contains 3 dwelling houses, 1 miscel- 
laneous store, and 1 extensive flouy 
manufacturing mill. 



202 EASTERN VlKO'liMA— KING GEORGE. 

KING GEORGE. 

King George was created by the legislature in 1720, from a part of 
Richmond County. It is bounded N. by the Potomac river, separating il 
from Charles County, Md. E. by Westmoreland, S. by the Rappahannock 
river, which separates it from Essex and Caroline, and W. by Stafford. 
Its length is 18 ms. mean breadth 10, and area 180 sq. ms. It extends in 
lat. from 38° 11', to 38° 23' N. and in long, from 0° 03', E. to 0° 13' W. 
of W. C. The surface is hilly and soil diversified. Population in 1820, 
6,116 — in 1830, 6,397. It belongs to the 5th judicial circuit and 3d district. 
Tax paid in 1832-3, $1,724 87— in 1833^4, on lots, S4 68— on land, 
$1,023 09— on 1,931 slaves, $482 75—1,353 horses, $81 18—4 studs, 
§37 00—32 coaches, $75 95—14 carryalls, $14 00—73 gigs, $42 10. 
Total $1,760 75. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $249 92, 
in 1833, $225 27. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Hampstead, P. O. in the S. E.' 
angle of the countJ^ 96 ms. N. E. of 
R., and 86 ms. S. W. of W. Hamp- 
stead is called a village on the post 
office li.st, but is in truth merely an 
old established post office, perhaps 
the oldest in the county, and equally 
long known as a stand for a store. 
It is situated 1 mile from Boyd's 
hole on the v.'estern shore of the Po- 
tomac, and about 6 ms. N. E. of King 
George C. H. in a rich country:' the 
staples of which arc, corn, wheat and 
cotton.: There are no manufactures 
in the" Northern neck; agriculture i.s 
the pursuit of the whole population. 
Within a mile and a half of Hamp- 
stead, there is a Protestant Episcopal 
church of the largest class of country 
churches, built of brick: — it is called 
St. Paul' s, and its congregation em- 
braces all the middle and lower part 
of the county. The Rev. Mr. Gold- 
smith is its present pastor. 

KING GEORGE C. H. P. O. 
situated near the centre of thecountj^ 
88 ms. N. N. E. of R., and 78 ms. S. 
W. of W. There are besides the 
usvial county buildings, 14 dwelling 
houses, 1 general store, and 1 tavern. 
The mechanics are, tailors, boot and 
shoe makers, saddlers, blacksmiths, 
dtc. Population 50 persons; of whom 
1 i.s a physician. 



County Courts are held on the \fi 
Thursday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, Avgust and 
November. 

Judge Lo5iax holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery, 
on the Isi of May and 8th of Octo- 
ber. 

MiLLviLLE, p. V. 97 ms. from R., 
and 87 ms. S. of W. This village 
contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 general 
stores, I grist mill, 1 blacksmith and 
1 shoemaker shop, and 19 inhabitants. 
Millville is situated on the head wa- 
ter of Rosier's creek, which divides 
King George and Westmoreland 
counties, so that a part of the village 
is in each county. 

Port Conway, P. V. and Sea 
Fort, 60 ms. from R., and 79 ms. S. 
ol W., situated on the N. side of the 
Rappahannock, opposite to P. Royal, 
in Caroline, in the S. W. part of the 
county. It contains 13 dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, and seve- 
ral mechanics. The land in the vi- 
cinity is considered fertile, and well 
adapted to corn and wheat, the only 
crops cviltivated to any extent. The 
location is a beautiful one for a large 
town, the land extending back for 2 
ms. in a perfect level. Some years 
since there was a tobacco wareJiouse, 
and inspection at this place, (and con- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING WILLIAM. 203 



siderable trade carried on in that ar- 
ticle, but o( late years the farmers 
have abandoned its cultivation, and 



turned their attention to wheat and 
corn. Population of Port Conway 
35. 



KING WILLIAM, 

King William was established by the legislature in 1701, and formed 
out of a part of King & Queen Co. It is bounded on the N. W. by the 
county of Caroline, on the S. and W. by the Pamunkey river, which sepa- 
rates it from Hanover and New Kent, and on the N., and E. by the Matta- 
pony river, which separates it from the county of King & Q-ueen. Its 
mean length is 32 ms. — its mean breadth 8^ ms., and it contains 270 sq, 
ras. It extends in lat. from 37° 30', to 37° 57' N., and in long, from 0^ 
09' E. to 0' 19' W^ of W. 

This county lies vcry^ much in the figure of an isosceles triangle, extend- 
ing from its boundary line with Caroline as its base, for a distance of 45 ms. 
between the two rivers Pamunkey and Mattapony, to their confluence at 
West Point, the head of York river. These two branches of York river 
fertilize a large portion of this narrow county, and afford the most conve- 
nient navigation, as well as fine shad and herring fisheries. Excellent 
oysters and crabs are taken in great abundance a few miles below West 
Point, and even at West Point, where the water is strongly impregnated 
with salt. The Pamunkey is navigable by schooners carrying about 1,600 
bushels, from the Oyster-sh-dl Landing, 2 ms. by land, below Dubney's 
Ferry ; which last point is considered the head of tide water, and is about 
35 ms. above West Point, and 16 ms. N. of the City of Richmond. The 
Mattapony is navigable by vessels of somewhat larger burthen, (say 2,000 
bushels) from Aylett's, a small village, on the S. bank of the river, about 30 
ms. above West Point, and 28 ms. N. of the City of Richmond, and 20 ms. 
from Tappahannock, in the county of Essex. Navigation is extended a 
{aw miles above Aylett's, to Dunkirk bridge by boats and small schooners, 
with light loads. With very trifling expense or trouble, the navigation 
might be made good to Dunkirk for any vessel that could reach Aj^ett's, 
and the river might be readily and cheaply cleared out, so as to afford good 
boat navigation many miles higher. 

The crops are chiefly of corn, and wheat, although oats and cotton are 
profitably cultivated. Tobacco (as in most oi the tide water counties) has 
been almost abandoned. Very profitable business may be, and no doubt 
ivill be done by shipping wood and timber for market from this county. 

Rumjord Academy is the only public seminary in the county worthy of 
notice. It is an exc(?llent brick building, calculated to accommodate 40 or 
50 pupils with board, situated immediately on the road leading from Ay- 
lett's to the C. H. and 5 ras. distant from either place, in a very healthy 
and agreeable part of the county. This has been always esteemed an in- 
stitution of considerable merit, and has generally enjoyed an excellent 
school, in which the usual branches of an academic education are taught. 
It is now in good hand.?, and may be justly recommended to the public. 
There is a Post Oflice at this Academy. 

This is a very religious county, with but little, if any appearance of bi- 
gotry, intolerance or fanaticism. The Baptists are the most numerous sect. 



204 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING WILLIAM. 



of whom the Reformers constitute tlic larger portion. There is a very re- 
spectable congregation of Methodists, who have a large and excellent house 
for public worship, called Powell's chapel. There are also a few Presby- 
terians, who usually attend religious worship at the Acquintainc church. 
There are 4 brick churches, viz: — Mangohick, Cat tail, Acquintaine and 
West Point Church. These churches are for the most part used by the 
Baptists, but free for all denominations. There is also an excellent Bap- 
tist meeting house called Beulah, used exclusively, it is believed by what 
are commonly denominated the old Baptists. Population in 1820,9,697 — 
in 1830, 9,319, whereof 3,389 were whites— and 5,930 blacks. This 
county belongs to the 4th judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid 
in 1833, $2,.565 87— in 1834, on lots, $20— on land, $1,238 76—3,319 
slaves, S829 75—1,655 horses, $99 30—7 studs, $100 00—67 coaches, 
$152 00—14 carryalls $14 00—222 gigs, $126 26. Total, $2,563 03. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $236 10— in 1833, $162 49. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Aylett's p. V. 27 ms. N. E. of 
R., and 110 from W., situated at the 
head of navigation on the banks of 
Mattapony river, a branch of York 
river, about 30 ms. from its junction 
with the Pamunkey, to form York 
river. It contains 15 dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, and 4 groceries. 
The mechanics are, tailors, house 
carpenters, wheelwrights, blacksmiths, 
&c. Population 50 whites, and 60 
colored. Total 110. Aylett's, in 
proportion to the inhabitants it con- 
tains, is a place of considerable trade. 
Many thousand bushels of grain, are 
shipped annually to the neighboring 
markets, and coastwise. Vessels of 
easy draft of M-ater can ascend up the 
Mattapony, and load at this village; 
but down about 8 ms. below the bar 
in the river, vessels of the burthen of 
3 to 4,000 bushels meet with no ob- 
struction in the navigation. In the 
vicinity of this place are several ma- 
nufacturmg flour mills, and 5 houses 
of public worship, 1 Episcopalian, 2 
Methodist, and 2 Baptist. 

Rumford Acadeviy is situated 4 
ms. distant, and is a seminary of re- 
spectable standing. The soil of the 
surrounding country, is light, sandy 
loam, and better adapted to the cul- 
ture of maize, cotton and peas, than 
wheat, or tobacco : and immediately on 



the river flats is quite productive. The 
inhabitants of the neighbourhood are 
intelligent, and in easy circumstances. 
Several handsome mansions are lo- 
cated near it, built in a modern and 
handsome style, and their fine appear- 
ance adds importance and beauty to 
this little village. 

Brandvwine, lies at the intersec- 
tion of the road leading from Aylett's 
to Newcastle ferry, with the road lead- 
ing from Mechaiiicsville to the C. H. 
7 ms. from Aylett's, 4| from Newcas- 
tle ferry, 10 ms. from the C. H. and 
5 from Meehanicsville. — It has an 
excellent tavern, a grocery, and gig 
maker. 

Enfield, P. O. 108 ms. from W. 
36 from R., and about 300 yds. from 
Meehanicsville, and 3^ ms. from 
Dabney's ferry, on the road leading 
from that ferry to Aylett's. It con- 
tains 2 stores, a blacksmith, shoema- 
ker, cabinet maker, saddler and har- 
ness maker, and a carpenters shop. 

Gkicen Mount, P. O. 33 ms. from 
R. and 104 ms. from W. 

KING WILLIAM C. H., 27 ms. 
N. E. of R., and 120 W. of S. from 
W. C, situated between the Mattapo- 
ny and Pamunkey rivers, 2 ms. from 
the former, and 5 from the latter, 6 
ms. distant both from Rumford Aca- 
demy and the Piping Tree, 7 ms. from 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LANCASTER. 



205 



Brandy wine, and 10 ms. from Aylott's. 
It contains, besides the usual county 
buildings, 8 dwelling- houses, several 
mechanic shops, and 1 mercantile 
store. Some of the lots and buildings 
present a state of high improvement, 
and tasteful management, especially 
the public lots and buildings, consi.st- 
ing of a C. H., Clerk's office, and 2 
jails — all constructed of brick, and 
handsomely inclosed with an iron 
railing. The lot is laid off in a square 
Avhich is beautifully set with grass, 
and shaded by a grove of locust trees. 
Population 75 persons; of whom 1 is 
an attorney, and 2 are regular physi- 
cians. 

Couyiiji Courts are held on the A^th 
Monday in every month: — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \st of April aiu\ September. 



Lanesville, p. O. 7 ms. below 
the C. H., has 2 stores, and several 
mechanics. 

Mangohick, p. O. 102 ms. from 
W., and 40 from R. There is here 
a store, blacksmith shop, gig maker, 
shoemaker, and tailor's shop. Dis- 
tant 10 ms. from Aylett's. 

Piping Tree, P. V. 20 ms. N. 
E. of R., and 127 from W., situated 
on the Pamunkey river, 10 ms. S. 
of Aylett's, though called a village, 
yet it is not remarkable for any thing 
more than a comfortable tavern house 
and ferry on the road leading direct 
to R. 

RuMFORD Academy, P. O., 115 
ms. a little S. of W. from W., and 32 
N. E. of R., situated on Mattapony 
river, 6 ms. below Aylett's, and 6 ms. 
above the C. H. The mail arrives 
twice a week. (See above in descrip- 
tion of the county.) 



LANCASTER. 



Lancaster was created by the legislature in 1652; — we are not informed 
from what county it was taken. It is bounded N. by Richmond and Northum- 
berland counties, E. by Northumberland, and the Chesapeake, S. and W. 
by the Rappahannock river, which separates it from Middlesex. Its length 
is 24 ms., mean breadth 8, and area 300 sq. ms., and it extends in lat. from 
27° 35', to 37° 55' N., and in long, from 0° 22', to 0° 40' E. of W. C. It 
is deeply indented on its Rappahannock border with several small but very 
convenient bays. Population in 1820, 5,517 — in 1830, 4,801. It belongs 
to the 5th judicial circuit and 3d district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $971 25 — in 
1833-4, on land, $462 86—1.385 slaves, $346 25—638 horses, $38 28— 
2 studs, $16 00—29 coaches, $60 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—108 gigs, 
$59 40. Total, $989 79. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$117 90. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «kc. 

LANCASTER C. H., P. V., sit-i pursuits are carried on. Population 
uated near the centre of the county, 1 80 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- 
83 ms. N. E. of R., and 145 ms. Sjney, and 1 a physician. 
S. E. of W. Besides the usual comi- County Courts are held on the 3rd 



ty buildings, it contains about 30 
dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 
and 1 tavern. Various mechanical 



Mo7iday in every month : — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 



206 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



JuDOE LoMAX" holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry, on the 25//i of May, and 2SM of 
October. 

Kilmarnock, P. V. situated on a 
small creek of Chesapeake bay, 90 
ms. N. E. by E. of R., and 153 ms. 
from W., about 16 ms. N. of the 
mouth of Rappahannock river, and 
1^ ms. from the navigable Avaters of 
Chesapeake bay. It contains 40 
dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 
and 1 tavern. Various mechanical 
pursuits are carried on; and in the 
neighbourhood in different directions, 
are 4 houses of public worship, 1 
Episcopalian, 1 Baptist, and2Metho-| 
dist. Population 130 persons; of| 
whom 1 is a physician. j 

NuTTsviLLE, P. V. in the northern : 
part of the county, 138 ms. S. S. E.: 
of W., and 7G N. E. by E. of R., sit-! 
uated 7 ms. above Lancaster C. H.,' 
in a N. W. direction, and about 2 ms. ' 
from the Rappahannock river. Thisj 
place was cstablislied 35 or 40 years 
since, by a person by the name of 
Wm. D." JN'uti, (hence Nuttsville) and' 



the Post Office was located herein 
[1818. It has 2 dwellitig houses, 1 
country store, a blacksmith and tailor 

1 shop. 

! Pain's ^ Roads, P. O. 52 ms. 
from W., and 72 ms. from R., situated 
between the Rappahannock, and Car- 
rotoman rivers, 15 ms. from the mouth 
of the former, and 5 ms. from the 
mouth of the latter. In the neck 
called Carrotoman, which runs N. 
and S. for the distance of 10 ms. be- 
tween those 2 riA'ers. Some 8 or 10 
years back, this was a place of con- 
siderable trade, but at present, it con- 
tains only 4 or 5 dwelling houses, a 
school, a Baptist meeting house, and 

2 boot and shoe factories. Popula- 
tion 40. The soil is fertile, producing 
well. The principal crops are wheat, 
Indian corn, and cotton. Though 
situated between 2 large commercial 
rivers, not more than 1 mile from 
either, the view is entirely o])structed 
by an immense growth of oak, and 
pine woods, an article of considerable 
value in the trade of this section of 
coimtry. 



EOUDOUN. 



LouDQUN was created by the Legislature in the year 1757, and formed 
from a part of Fairfax county. It is bounded on the N. by the Potomac, 
which separates it from Frederick county, Maryland, and on the N. E. by 
the same river, separating it from Montgomery county, Md., — E. by Fair- 
fax, — S. by Prince William and Fauquier, — and W. by the Blue Ridge 
which separates it from Frederick and .Jefferson counties. Its length is 
from S. E. to N. W. 22 miles, mean breadth 21, and area 468 square miles; 
and it extends in lat. from 38° 42' to 39° 18' N. and in long, from 0° 20' 
to 0° 54' W. of W. C. 

The most prominent feature of this county is its ranges of mountains. 
The blue Ridge divides this county from Frederick and Jefferson, the line 
running on the summit. It presents here that uniformity and general ap- 
pearance, which characterizes it, throughout this State, having gaps or de- 
pressions every eight or ten miles, through which the public roads pass. 
Its altitude here varies from about 1000 to 1400 feet above tide water, and 
from 300 to 700 feet above the adjacent country; and its course is about 
S. S. W. Another range of nearly equalheij. ht, and similar features, called the 
Short Hills commences at the Potomac river about 4 miles below Harper's 
Ferry, running parallel to the ridge and extendinp; about 9 miles into the 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 207 

county, where it is broken by a branch of Kittoctan Creek passing through 
it; beyond which it immediately rises again, and extends about 3 miles 
further, where it abruptly terminates. A third range called the Kittoctan 
mountain commences at the Potomac river, opposite the Poitit of Rocks in 
Maryland, about 12 miles below Harper's Ferry, and runs parallel to the 
Blue Ridge, nearly through the county; and forms a valley of about 10 
miles wide, from the northern to the southern boundary of the county. 
This mountain does not probably exceed an average of more than 300 
feet above the surrounding country, though some of its peaks may attain 
an altitude of 600 feet. It rises near the Potomac into one of its highest 
peaks, and in the same range becomes alternately depressed and elevated 
several times, until it reaches the neighborhood of Waterford, where it di- 
vides itself into several branches, and presents the appearance of an elevat- 
ed and hilly country, deeply indented by the severals streams that rises in 
its bosom. 

On reaching the Leesburg and Snicker's Gap turnpike road, a distance 
of 11 or 12 miles, it expands to 3 miles in width, and continues much the 
same until after it is broken by Goose Creek, and its tributary the N. W, 
Fork, when it gradually loses itself in the hills of Goose Creek and Lit- 
tle river, before reaching the Ashby's Gap turnpike. Immediately S. of 
Aldie on Little river, another range commences called the Bull Run moun- 
tain, and extends in a single range into Fauquier county. This range 
might properly be considered a continuation of the easternmost range of the 
Kittoctan, as its course and some of its features correspond very nearly 
with it, save only that it is higher than any of the ranges of the latter, ex- 
cept the western. No range of mountains or even hills of much eleva- 
tion exists E. of the Kittoctan, that being the first range met with above 
tide water. Three or four detached hills, with an elevation of 100 or 200 
feet above the adjacent country, are on the waters of the N. W. Fork of 
Goose Creek, and are all that are deemed Avorthy of notice. 

It may be perceived, on reference to the map, by the course of the waters, 
that the general slope of the county is to the N. E. The streams that 
rise in the Blue Ridge mostly run to the E., until they approach the Kit- 
toctan mountain, where they either turn more to the N. or S. to pass that 
range by the N. W. Fork and Goose Creek, or by the Kittoctan creek 
that falls into the Potomac, above the Point of Rocks. E. of the Kittoc- 
tan mountain the streams generally pursue a N. course. The Kittoctan 
creek is very crooked, its basin does not exceed about 12 miles from N. to 
S. and includes the whole width of the valley between the mountains, ex- 
cept a small portion in the N. E. angle of the county; and yet its whole 
course measuring its meanders would exceed 35 miles in length ; and it 
has a fall of 180 feet in the last 18 miles of its course, and is about 20 yards 
wide near its mouth. Goose Creek where it enters the county from Fau- 
quier, is a considerable stream and pursues generally a N. E. course, and 
receives many small streams, until it passes the first range of the Kittoctan 
mountain, where it receives a large tributary, the N. W. Fork. The latter 
stream rises in the Blue Ridge, and pursues a S. E. course, and unites 
with the Beaver Dam, coming from the S. W. immediately above the Kit- 
toctan mountain, where their united waters pass by a narrow valley to 
Goose Creek. After receiving the N. W. Fork, the main stream pursues 
generally an E. N. E. course for a few miles further, where it receives the 
Little river from the S. This stream rises in Fauquier county W. of the 



208 EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 

Bull Run mountain, and enters this county a few miles above Aldie, and 
pursues a N. and N. E. course until after passing that town, when it turns 
more northwardly and falls into Goose Creek. 'I'he now increased stream 
meanders a little more to the N. E. and N. and finally falls into the Poto- 
mac, 4 miles N. E. of Leesburg. Its length in this county is about 30 
miles, and it has a fall of 100 feet, in the last 22 miles of its course. It 
drains nearly one half of the county, and is about 60 yards v.ide at its 
mouth. 

Broad Run the ne.^ct stream of consequence, E. of Goose Creek, rises in 
Prince William county, and pursues a N. course with some meanderings 
through this county, and falls into the Potomac about 4 miles below the 
mouth of Goose Creek. Sugar Land run, a smaller stream, rises partly 
in this county, though its course is chiefly in Fairfax county, and falls into 
the Potomac at the N. E. angle of this county. In the S. E. angle of the 
county several streams rise and pursue a S. and S. E. course, and consti- 
tute some of the upper branches of Occoquan river. 

This county is not rich in minerals, though there are some small indi- 
cations of Iron ore in several places. A furnace formerly existed at the E. 
base of the Kittoctan mountain, on the margin of the Potomac river, but 
has been out of blast for a good many years, owing to the scarcity of fuel. 
The ore in the vicinity is said to be abundant, and the water-power there used 
was obtained from the Kittoctan creek, W. of the mountain, by excavating 
a tunnel through one of its spurs, 500 feet through the rock and 60 feet 
below the surface of the hill. Magnetic iron ore has been found in seme 
places, and that, or some other similar substance, has an effect upon the 
needle of the surveyor's compass, and renders surveying very difficult 
where great accuracy is required. In some instances the needle has been 
known to be drawn 7^ from its true course. This effect is more or less 
observed nearly throughout the Kittoctan mountain, and in many other 
places in the county. In one place it is said that silver has been obtained 
in small quantity, and in another place there is an indication of copper ore, 
but whether sufficiently rich to justify working, remains to be tested. 
Small angular lumps of a yellowish colored substance have been found in 
a few places, embedded in rock, and supposed to contain sulphur, from the 
strong sulphurous smell given out on its being exposed to a strong heat. 
Limestone has not been found in many places near the surface of the 
ground in this county. It is found in Digg's valley and some other places, 
and quarries are worked N. E. of Waterford, on the E. side of the Black 
Oak Ridge, and at the base of the Kittoctan mountain, where Goose Creek 
first approaches it. Near the latter place, marble is found of an excellent 
quality, but has not been worked much. In the vicinity of Leesburg and 
N. of it, and between the Kittoctan mountain and the Potomac river, a 
colcareous rock is found in abundance, apparently formed of pebbles 
cemented together, and similar in formation to that used for the pillars of 
the Representatives Hall in the Capitol at Washington, and commonly 
known as the Potomac marble ; when burnt it produces an inferior lime. 

There are several mineral springs in the county of the class called 
Chalybeate, and several springs and wells that are affected with lime. 

Many varieties of stone are found in this county, among Avhich are 
granite very abundant, borne blende, gneiss, quartz, and as before observed, 
limestone and marble. Much of it however, on or near the surface, ap- 
pears to be a variety of granite and home blende. The latter kind is fre- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 209 

quently found in round or oval masses, and in that form it is almost impos- 
sible to break it. White flint is met with frequently, and bin?, flint occa- 
sionally, throughout the county, on or near the surface, but saldcm in l^rp-e 
masses or deep in the ground. Small pointed stones cf different kinds of 
flint, and supposed to be Indian darts, are occasionally found, as a.so soim 
rare varieties of stones, of a singular form, and exhibiting some curiuus 
phenomena. Some few years ago, a stonemason broke a stone on the Kittcc- 
tan mountain, and found it to contain a shell resembling an oyster shell 
filled with sand petrified. 

The different strata of rocks and earth, throughout the county, have a 
direction parallel with the mountain, and an elevatsd position inclining to 
the west, evidently shewing some general causa in their formation. 

Perhaps no county in the State is better watered for all purposes except 
manufacturing in times of drought. The springs are generally small and 
very numerous, and many of them are very lasting tho' liable \o be effect- 
ed by drought. In such cases by absorption, and evaporation, ihe small 
streams are frequently exhausted before uniting and render the larger ones 
too light for manufacturing purposes. Many of our farms njight he 
divided into fields of ten acres each and have running water in each of 
them in ordinary seasons. But one spring in the county is large enough 
to turn a mill, and that is near Leesburg, on which is a large merchant 
mill capable of nianufacturg 75000 bushels of wheat in a year. 

The mo.st common growth of timber found here, is the white, black, 
Spanish, red, and box oak; hickory and green maple; white and yellow 
poplar; black and white walnut, ash, sassafras, dogwood, chesr.ut, and 
chesnut oak on the mountains, peach oak (so called from the resemblance 
of its leaves to that of the peach tree;) in low grounds and near th*? mar- 
gin of streams, is the sycamore, red, and slippery elm, birch and some 
beech; the persimmon, black and red haw or white thorn is coramcn and 
the Virginia thorn, suitable for hedging, is found in the eastern part of the 
county. Common locust is found in part of the county; the quaking asp 
is occa.sionally met with, and so is the yellow pine; and on some of the 
cliffs of Goose Creek and Beaver Dam, the hemlock or spruce pine is to 
be found. The wild May cherry or service berry, the witch hazel, frirge 
tree, red bud, papaw and spicewood are not uncommon. Three varieties 
of the large grape commonly called fox grape, and several kinds of lesser 
grapes, are found here, and were formerly very common. 

Almost ever)'- kind of fruit common to this climate succeeds well, espe- 
cially apples, peaches, cherries, plums, quinces and grapes : the farmers 
generally are very remis.s in improving their orchards by selecting good 
fruit, but lately more attention has been paid to that subject and the good 
effects are becoming visible. - ' . 

This county contains all the varieties of soil, from a rich alluvian to that 
of an unproductive clay. That part of it lying E. of a line drawn from 
the Potomac river near Leesburg by Aldie to the Fauquier line, is much 
more unproductive than that part to the W. partly on account of an infe- 
rior soil, and partly in consequence of that wretched system of farming 
hitherto too much practised in Virginia, b{ cropping with corn and to- 
bacco, without endeavoring- to improve the quality of the soil. Some of 
it that formerly produced 30 or 40 bushels of corn to the acre is now 
thrown out to the commons, and considered useless. A good deal of this 
part of the countv is verv level, and h;is a clav soil, and is more produc- 
27 ■ ■ 



210 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



tive in grass than grain. The other section or about three-fourths of the 
county has generally a good soil, and is very susctptilbe of improvement. 
The quality of the grain is good. Gypsum, or plaster of Paris, and clover 
a:t wonderfully in improving the soil, as well as barnyard manures. 

The staple articles are flour, wheat, pork and beef Most of the wheat 
is manuflictured into flour in the county, and the rye, corn, oats, and buck- 
wheat is mostly consumed at home. Much excellent pork is fattened in 
this county, and many hundred head of cattle are annually grazed to sup- 
ply the Baltimore and District markets. All kinds of vegetables common 
to this climate succeed well. 

The citizens of this county are characterized by a commendable spirit of 
internal improvement. A charter has been obtained and some subscrip- 
tions towards forming a company to improve the navigation of Goose Creek 
and some of its tributaries by a lock and dam system, and a charter also 
to form a company to make a rail road from the mouth of the Kittoctan 
creek opposite the Point of Rocks in Maryland, to Uppcrvillc in Fauquier 
county. 

. A very considerable contrast is observable in the manners of the inhabi- 
tants in diflcrent sections of the county. That part of it lying N. W. of 
Waterford was originally settled principally by Germans, and is now called 
the German settlement, and the middle of the county S. W. of Waterford 
and W. of Leesburg, was mostly settled by emigrants from the middle 
States, many of whom were members of the society of Friends. In these 
two sections the farms are generally from one to three hundred acres each 
and are mostly cultivated by free labor. In the S. and E. parts of the county 
. the farms are many of them much larger and principally cultivated by slave 
labor. 

Very extensive prospects may be seen on some of the summits of the 
Blue Ridge. From the east side nearly all Loudoun, with a good deal of 
Fairfax and Fauquier, is in full view, also a considerable part of Culpeper, 
and Prince William counties in this State, with Frederick and Montgo- 
mery counties of Maryland, and even some of Prince George county E. of 
Washington City. From the W. side of the summits may be seen She- 
nandoah, Frederick, Berkley, and Jefferson counties in this State — with 
Washington county, Maryland, and some of the mountain summits of 
Pennsylvania. 

Population in 1820, 22,702— in 1830, 21.939. This county belongs to 
the sixth judicial circuit and third district. Taxes paid in 1833, $8720 78 
—in 1834 on lots, $622 63— on land, $6205 41—3021 slaves, $755 25— 
8399 horses, $503 94—41 studs, $381 00—74 coaches, $160 00—123 
carryalls, $15 29—47 gigs, $37 80. Total, $8817 32. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $1230 18— in 1833, $1073 60. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



• Aldie, P. O. 149 ms. from R., and 
41 ms. from W., situated at the junc- 
tion of Snicker's Gap turnpike, with 
Little river turnpike, on Little river, 
at the point which it passes between 
Kittoctan and Bull Run mountains. 
Arcold, P. O. 38 ms. W. of W., 



and 146 from R., situated on the main 
stage road, leading from Alexandria 
to Winchester, and distant from the 
former 29 ms., about a mile and a 
half from Arcold is Gum Spring, a 
small village containing 8 dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



211 



1 blacksmith shop and a distillery. 
Population 20. This section of coun- 
try is thickly settled, though the land 
is generally poor. 

Bloomfield, p. V. 51 ms. N. W. 
by W. of W., and 168 from R., situat 
ed within a mile of Snickersville. It 
contains 12 dwelling houses, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 lanyard, I tin plate 
worker, 1 tailor, 1 cabinet maker, 1 
boot and shoe factory: and in the vi- 
cinity there is a Baptist house of wor- 
ship in which a school is kept. Pop- 
ulation 40. 

Edward's Feruv, P. O. This 
ferry is across the Potomac, at the 
point at which the road crosses that 
river between Rockviilc, in Mont- 
gomery county, Maryland and Lees- 
burg, on the upper side of the mouth 
of Goose crcok, 21 ms. a little N. of 
W. from Rockville, 4 ms. N. E. of 
Leesburg, and 31 ms. N. W. of W. 
The P. O. is on the Maryland side. 

Griogsville, p. V. 40 ms. W. of 
W., and 162 from R. This place 
received a charier of incorporation a 
few years since, but has not progres- 
sed in improvement, — 1 family, a 
store and a P. O. are all it yet con- 
tains, although it is situated in a fer- 
tile and densely settted country, 9 ms. 
W. of Leesburg, the county scat, 12 
ms. S. of Waterford, and the same 
distance S. E. of Hillsborough, 8 ras. 
E. of Snickersville, 6 ms. N. E. of 
Middleburg, and 8 ms. W. of Aldic. 

Goshen, a small village in the 
southern part of the coumv, about 35 
ms. W. of W. 

Hamilton's Store, P. O. 159 
ms. from R. and 37 from W. 

Hillsborough, at the eastern 
foot of the Blue Ridge, in the north- 
ern part of the county, 43 ms. N. N. 
W. of W., and 165" from R. It is 
pleasantly situated in the midst of a 
fine fertile country, and business like 
neigborhood, about 4 ms. E. of the 
Blue Ridge mountain, on the public 
road leading from Harper's ferry to 
Leesburg, 10 m."; from the former, 



and 13 ms. from the latter. A line 
of stages passing from Harper's ferry, 
to Leesburg, passes through this 
place, and unites at the latter place 
with one leading to Washington — 4 
mails a week are received at Hills- 
borough. It contains 30 dwelling 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 Metho- 
dist house of worship, 1 Academy, 2 
flour manufacturing mills, 1 tavern 
and a temperance society. The me- 
chanics are a tanner, saddler, boot 
and shoe manufacturer, tailor, hatter, 
cabinet maker, 2 wagon makers, and 
I blacksmith. Population 172 per- 
sons; of whom 1 is a physician. 

Holme's Mill, P. O. 40 ms. W. 
of W. and 162 from R. 

HoYsviLLE, P. O. 43 ms. from W. 
and 165 from R. The country around 
is thickly settled and generally 
healthy; the quality of the land is 
equal to any in Virginia; the princi- 
ral products of the soil, are wheat, 
rye, corn, and oats, which are raised 
in great abundance. Hoysville lies 
to the E. of Kittoctan mountain, and 
l^ ms. from Kittoctan creek, about 2 
ms. S. of Potomac river, and 3 ms. 
distant from the Point of Rocks, at 
which the Chesapeake and Ohio Ca- 
nal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail 
Road meet. There are several flour 
manufacturing mills in the neighbor- 
hood, and mechanics of almost every 
description. 

HuGHEsviLLE, P. O. 4 ms. from 
Leesburg, and 36 ms. N. W. of W., 
and 158 rns. from R. 

LEESBURG, P. V. and Scat of 
Justice, 31 ms. N. W. of W. C. and 
153 N. of R in lat. 39° 07', and long. 
0° 0' W. of W. C. It is a well built, 
and neat village, located near a small 
ridge of mountains. The environs 
are waving and well cultivared, and 
delightfully variegated by hill and 
dale. It contains about 500 houses. 
22 general stores, 3 houses of public 
worship, 1 Presb\'terian. 1 Episcopa- 
lian, and 1 Methodist, a Bank (branch 
of the Valley bank,") in a largp hand- 



212 



EASTERr^ VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



some banking house, 2 apothecaries 
shops, 3 schools for males, 1 classical, 
and 2 English, 3 for females, -2 of which 
have attainiid some celebrity, and 4 
Uvtirns. The mc^chanical pursuits 
ara 3 taiiners, 3 siddlers, 4 boot and 
sho3 facioridS. 3 tailor esiablishments, 
4 hous.^ carpenters, 1 cabinet maker, 
3 tin plate workers, 1 copper smith, 
1 white and lock smith, 3 black- 
smiths, 2 silver smiths, 1 coach ma- 
ker, 1 turner and chair maker, 1 
wagon maker, 2 hat factories, 2 print- 
ing offices, each issuing a weekly- 
paper; and all other necessary me- 
chanics for an inland town. The 
public buildings are large, convenient, 
handsome and substantial. The C. 
H in the centre of a square well en- 
closed with a brick wall, tlie market 
house and jail of brick. The town 
is situated a quarter of a mile E. of 
Kittoctan mountain, on a high and 
healthy plain, 1-^- ms. N. of Potomac 
river, and 2 ms. N. of Goose creek, 
surrounded by a fertile and well cul- 
tivated country adapted to the growth 
oi wheat, Indian corn, and tobacco — 
the former the staples. The streets 
are well paved, and the town, sup- 
plied with fine w^ater, in pipes of 
wood, from a spring issuing at the 
base of Kittoctan mountain. It is 
governed by a Mayor and 12 Coun- 
cillors, and is not excelled for morali- 
ty by any town in Virginia. Popu- 
lation 1,700 persons; of whom 5 are 
practising physicians, 2 dentists and 
7 resident attorneys. 

County Courts are held on the 
2?ii Monday in every month : — 
Qwirterly in March, Jujie, August 
and November. 

Judge Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 21.?^ of April and September. 

LovETTsvii.LE, P. V. in the N. 
W. part of the county, 43 ms. N. W. 
of W. and 170 from R. It contains 
14 private dwellings, 4 mercantile 
stores, 1 German reformed church, 
and 1 Presbyterian church now being 



erected, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 
cabinet maker, 1 tailor, 1 saddler, 1 
milliner and mantua maker, and 1 
tavern. It is situated 7 ms. distant 
from Harper's ferry, 2 ms. from Poto- 
mac river, 6 ms. from the Point of 
Rocks, 7 ms. from Waterford, and 8 
ms. from Hillsboro. This village is 
in a flourishing condition, being lo- 
cated in the centre of a German 
neighborhood, the inhabitants of which 
are industrious and wealthy. 

MiDDLEBURG, P. V. OU GoOSe 

creek, the S. S. W. part of the county, 
46 ms. N. W. by W. of W. and 143 
ms. from R., situated 12 ms. from the 
top of the Blue Ridge, at Ashby's 
Gap, the corner of Loudoun and 
Fauquier counties, \ of a mile from 
the Fauquier line, and 16 ms. from 
Lecsburg, the County Seat. It con- 
tains 70 dwelling bouses, 7 mercan- 
tile stores, selling on an average 
$S0,000 worth of goods per annum, 
2 houses of public worship, 1 metho- 
dist, and 1 free for all denominations, 
1 classical school, 1 English school 
for males, 2 female academics and 2 
hotels. The mechanical pursuits are 
1 tanner and currier, 2 coach manu- 
facturers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 2 
wagon makers, 2 blacksmiths, 1 chair 
maker, 2 tailors, 1 cabinet maker, 2 
house carpenters, 2 saddlers, and 3 
milliner, and mantua makers. Mid- 
dleburg is a growing and prosperous 
village, surrounded by a beautiful and 
fertile country. Its situation is ele- 
vated and airy, — the houses are not 
crowded, but scattered regularly over 
several gradually rising eminences. 
The face of the surrounding country 
is diversified and picturesque, — both 
from the aspect of its rolling or waved 
surface, and the richness and fertility 
of soil. There are within the cir- 
cumference of 10 ms. IS flour manu- 
facturing mills, all plentifully filled, 
by the annual harvest. The land 
producing on the average acre, about 
25 busheh; of superior wheat. — • 
The villasre and neighborhood are 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



213 



plentifully watered, largo flowino;' 
streams abounding in the country 
around. The village itself contains 
numerous and inexhaustible wells of 
the purest and best water. There 
are some sulphur and other medici- 
nal springs in the neighbourhood, 
which have not had that attention 
paid to them which they deserve, but 
which in a few years will most pro- 
bably become public resorts. Popu- 
lation 430 persons; of whom 2 are 
attorneys and 4 practising physicians. 

Mount Gilead, P. V.d7 ms. 
N. W. of W., and 159 ms. from R. 
It is situated ncarl}'' in the centre of 
this fertile and wealthy county, on the 
Kittoctan Mountain, at the intersec- 
tion of two public roads, one leading 
from Snickers Gap to Alexandria — 
the other through a line of towns 
from the S. to Philadelphia. The 
site of this village is a beautiful emi- 
nence, which rises to a moderate 
height, in a wide gap, or opening in 
the mountain. From the bleak winds 
of the north it is protected, by a much 
higher summit of the same mountain. 

The prospect from this place is 
most varied and extensive. To the 
E. and S. is a beautiful rolling moun- 
tainous countrj'. But it is on the W. 
side of the village that the curious 
may behold the finest scenery in na- 
ture. Here a valley opens to view 
about 10 ms. wide, extending between 
the Kittoctan, and Blue mountains as 
far as the eye can reach ; diversified 
by hills and dales, fields and forests: 
it is equalled only in scenery of ro- 
mantic grandeur and sublimity, by 
the distant mountains which border it. 

Here, also, being the lower part of 
the mountain, is tihe natural as well 
as artificial passage to mill, market, 
court, &.C. for the citizens of the sur- 
rounding country. 

Combining so many natural ad- 
vantages, this place was purchased 
by the present proprietor in 1821. — 
It has since been laid out for a town, 
22 lots have been disposed of, and 10 



dwelling houses are in diflferent stages 
of progression. 

The ground plot of the town con- 
sists of 3 parallel streets, 2 ol which 
are more than ^ a mile long, inter- 
sected by 8 other streets at right an- 
gles. The distance from Leesburg, 
Middieburg, Union, and Aldie, is re- 
spectively about 8 ms. and as those 
are the nearest towns it has to com- 
pete with, considering the density of 
the population, and the productive- 
ness of the country, it is calculated 
that two good establishments of every 
kind of business would be well sup- 
ported here. And the superior 
healthiness of the place will ensure to 
tradesmen and mechanics the great- 
est advantages; to boarding school 
and infirmary institutions the most 
eligible situation. It contains at pre- 
sent 1 mercantile store, 1 handsome 
school house built expressly for the 
purpose, and the Methodist society 
hold their meetings for worship there- 
in; an infirmary, which is an infant 
institution intended for the restoration 
of persons laboring under chronic 
diseases, and which has been attended 
with unusual success, — 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 1 cooper's shop, 2 cabi- 
net makers; and in the vicinity there 
is a large and spacious house of pub- 
lic worship (Baptist.) This place 
must rise in importance as it is lo- 
cated in a healthy, fertile district ; a 
canal or slack water navigation is 
about to be constructed on Goose 
creek, 1 branch of which will termi- 
nate within less than a mile of the 
corporation. Population 62 persons; 
of whom 1 is a practising physician. 

MoNTviLLE, P. O. 46 ms.'N. W. 
of W. and 154 ms. from R., situated 
upon the Snicker's Gap turnpike 
road, distant 1| ms. both from the wa- 
ters of Goose creek, and Beaver Dam. 
There is over the latter, an excellent 
one arch stone bridge, and over the 
former, a superior wooden arched 
bridge. Montvillc contains several 
|dwel.ing houses, 1 mercantile store, 



214 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



2 taverns, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
2 smith shops, 2 boot and shoe facto- 
ries, and various other mechanics 
Population 71. 

The land in this neighborhood is 
remarkably good, and is valued in 
market at 35 and 40 dollars an acre. 
The principal pursuit of the inhabi- 
tants, is agriculture, — cattle grazing 
is also followed to some extent. 
There are several quarries in the 
neighborhood, 1 called Mounts quarry 
is of superior whetstone, and situated 
on the banks of Goose creek; near 
which there are very strong indica- 
tions of slate. The neighborhood 
abounds with lime of the best quality, 
and various other minerals. 

Nolaxd's Ferry, P. O. 43 ms. 
N. W. of AV., and 165 trom R. The 
P. O. is situated a little above the 
mouth of Moiiocacy river. 

Oatland Mills, P. O. 37 ms. N. 
W. of W. and 154 from R. But for 
its locality, this P. O. would deserve 
no further notice than is taken in this 
work of many others ot the same im- 
portance: but although of little ac- 
count, in point of revenue, it is of 
great utility to a populous neighbor- 
hood, and furnishes one of the deside- 
rata for this Gazetteer, as the large 
body of land which is included in the 
Oatland tract, affords a tolerable cri- 
terion of the soil for some miles N. 
and S. of it. Bordering on the Kit- 
toctan mountain, the soil is stifT and 
stony, except such as is adjacent to 
water courses, or the base of hills, 
where it receives the benefit of large 
supplies of decayed matter, rendering 
it loamy and inexhaustible: hut in the 
main, it is of a generous quality, re- 
ceiving plaistei and clover as its sta- 
ple manure, which it so pertinacious- 
ly retains, as to defy the washing of 
the heaviest rains; and still it is an 
anomaly, that some of the richest por- 
tions of this soil will not produce 
wheat — while rye, oats, and corn, sel- 
dom fjiil to equal the most sanguine 
hopes of the c\iltivatnr There is, 



perhaps, no section of country E. of 
the Blue Ridge, which better deserves 
the appellation of pasture land, than 
this; for there are very few parcels 
where the white clover does not grow 
spontaneously in the greatest abun- 
dance. In this section of country na- 
ture has been sparing of her minera- 
logical favors. Iron ore is found in 
some places, but neither so rich or 
abundant as to cause it to be worked. 
Marble, such as the shores of the Po- 
tomac abound with, is scattered in 
shallow strata, but is also unworthy of 
attention. Lime stone is obtained in 
the greatest abundance, and is well 
adapted, as a manure, to the soil. 
The Oatland Mills consist of a set of 
merchant stones, capable of grinding 
40 barrels of flour per day, — a pair 
of country stones, and another for 
plaister, — with an oil mill and 2 wool 
carding machines, all under different 
roofs, but in buildings so closely con- 
nected as to combine the convenience 
of a single one, — there is also a saw 
mill adjacent; all of which are worked 
by Goo.se creek, a bold stream empty- 
ing into the Potomac river, 12 ms. 
below. Across this creek, a few rods 
from the mills, is an excellent bridge 
of 120 feet span, lately erected at the 
cost of the county. Through the in- 
defatigable zeal of the Honorable C. 
F. Mercer, a topographical survey of 
Goose creek has recently been made, 
with a view of rendering it navigable 
by a canal, intersecting the Chesapeake 
and Ohio Canal; and an estimate of 
the probable cost, also made, which 
will not exceed $30,000, — a part of 
this sum has been subscribed by per- 
sons in the immediate neighborhood, 
and a hope is entertained, that the re- 
sidue will be taken by the District of 
Columbia, to secure the vast amount 
of produce which must otherwise find 
a market at Baltimore by way of the 
Rail road. 

PiiiLMONT, P. y. 41 ms. from W. 
and 163 from R, situated on the 
Snickersville turnpike roarl. 1^ ,ms. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUDOUN. 



215 



S. of Lccsburg, the Cownty Scat, 10 
ms. from Snicker's ferry, 42 ms. from 
Alexandria. It contains 6 dwelling 
houses, I common school, 1 mercan- 
tile store, and 2 saddlers. The coun- 
try around is fertile and wealthy, set- 
tled for the most part by Quakers. 
Wheat is the principal article pro- 
duced. 

Purcell's Store, P. O. 41 ms. 
N. W. of W., and 163 ms. from R. 

RosEviLLE, 38 ms. from W. and 
146 ms. from R. 

Snickersville, p. V. in the wes- 
tern part of the county, 49 ms. W. of 
\V., and 165 from R. This is a 
thriving and healthy village, advan- 
tageously situated at the south eastern 
base of the Blue Ridge mountain, in 
the midst of a densely populated and 
business-like neighborhood. It con- 
tains 16 dwelling houses, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, 1 common school, 1 Masonic 
hall, 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 2 
boot and shoe factories, 1 tailor, 1 
wagon maker, 3 blacksmiths, and 1 
copper and tin plate worker. This 
section of the county is remarkable 
for the fertility and productiveness of 
its soil. A good turnpike from Win- 
chester to Alexandria, passes through 
it, and intersects at the former place 
with one from Washington to Win- 
chester, which passes through Lees- 
burg. An excellent line of stages, 
■which extends from Washington to 
Cumberland, in Indiana, passes thro' 
this village, Winchester and Leesburg. 
Six mails a week are received at the 
P. O. Population 98 persons; of 
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are 
practising physicians. 

Upperville,* p. V. in the ex- 
treme south western end of Loudoun, 
54 ms. W. of W., and 135 ms. from 
R., situated on the Ashby's Gap turn- 
pike road, between Winchester and 
Alexandria, distant 23 ms. both from 



* This post village has by some accident 
pot transposed — it ought to have been in 
Fauquier Co. 



Lccsbutg and War rent on, not more 
than 200 yards from the Fauquier 
line, and 3 ms. from the Blue Ridge. 
It contains 64 dwelling houses, 3 mer- 
cantile stores, 2 taverns and 1 hotel, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, 3 houses 
of public worship, 1 Baptist, 1 Me- 
thodist, and 1 free for all denomina- 
tions, and another is now being erect- 
ed by the Episcopalians, — 1 Acade- 
my, in which the languages are 
taught, and 1 common school. The 
mechanics are, a tanner, hatter, 3 
boot and shoe manufacturers, 2 mill 
Wrights, 1 saddler, 2 house joiners, 1 
tin plate worker, 1 bricklayer, 2 stone 
masons, and 2 plasterers. Upper- 
ville is surrounded by a very popu- 
lous and fertile country, remarkably 
well watered, and the land adapted to 
the growth of corn and wheat, and to 
grazing, which last is extensively 
carried on. This place is distant from 
Alexandria, 46 ms., and 54 from W., 
and its produce is principally carried to 
the former. Should the contemplated 
improvement of the navigation of 
Goose creek go into operation, it will 
aftbrd an easier mode of transporta- 
tion, and add greatly to the wealth, 
and industry of this neighborhood, 
giving the former a choice of markets, 
besides lessening by more than one 
half, the expense of transportation. 
Population 300 persons; of whom 1 
is an attorney, and 2 are regular phy- 
sicians. 

Union, P. V. in the western angle 
of the county, 51 ms. N. W. of W., 
and 173 ms. from R. It contains 25 
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public 
worship, 1 of which belongs to the 
Methodist denomination, and the other 
2 are free for all; 1 common school, 2 
mercantile stores, 1 tavern, a carding 
machine worked by horse power, 
and to which there is also attached a 
pair of burr stones. There are 1 
temperance society and various me- 
chanical pursuits. The situation is 
healthy, in a thickly settled neigh- 
bourhood, 16 ms. from Leesburg, and 



216 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 



cqui-distaiit from Middleburg, Upper- 
ville and Snickersville. Population 
135 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- 
ney, and 3 are regular physicians. 

Waterford, P. V. in the northern 
part of the county, 37 ms. N. W. of 
W. C, and 159 ms. from R. Wa- 
terford is a fine flourishing- little vil- 
lage, situated G ms. N. W. of Lees- 
burg, the County Seat, on the Kit- 
toctan creek. The land is equal to 
any in the state of Virginia, admira- 
bly adapted to clover and plaisler, and 
is excellent wheat and corn land, 
which two articles are the staple pro- 
ductions of the county. AVaterford 
contains 70 dwellinfr houses, 'd houses 



of public worship, 1 free for all de- 
nominations, the other a Friends' 
meeting house, (3 mercantile stores, 2 
free schools, 4 taverns, 1 manufactur- 
ing flour mill, and 1 Saw, grist and 
plaister mill, and (in the vicinity) 2 
small cotton manufactories. The me- 
chanics are 1 tanner, 2 house joiners, 
2 cabinet makers, 1 chair maker and 
painter, 1 boot and shoe manufactur- 
ers, 2 hatters, I tailor, 6lc. Popula- 
tion about 400 persons; of whom 3 
are regular physicians. 

Wood Grove, P. O. in the north- 
ern part of the county, 44 ms. N. W. 
of W., and 166 ms. from R. 



I.OU1SA. 

Louisa was created by the Legislature in 1742, and was taken from the 
upper portion of Hanover county. It is bounded N. by Orange and Spott- 
sylvania — N. E. by Spottsylvania, — E. by Hanover, — S. by Goochland 
and Fluvanna, and W. by Albemarle. Situated between 37° 45' and 38° 
6' N. lat., and between 0° 42' and 1° 17' W. long, from Washington. 
This county is near the centre of Virginia and near the centre of the re- 
gion between tidewater and the Blue Ridgo. Its mean length is from the 
line of Albemarle to that of Hanover, 30 miles: its mean breadth, from 
the upper part of Goochland to that of Spottsylvania, 18 miles: area 550 
sq. miles. 

Water Courses. — The South An}ia,a.n arm of the Pamunky, runs forty 
miles through this county in a S. E. direction. On the Orange and Spott- 
sylvania line, the North Anna runs an equal distance, bounding Louisa on 
the N. and N. E. Little river, and Newfoimd river, rise in Louisa, and 
having entered Hanover, run, the former into the North-Anna, the latter 
into the South-Anna. Hopes are entertained of rendering all these navi- 
gable to some extent: the South-Anna to the upper part of the county, 
■within 10 miles of its source; and the North-Anna nearly as high. There 
are 35 rivulets, (here called creeks:) of which 24 are tributary to the North- 
Anna, 10 to the South-Anna, and one to Little river. 

Soil, products, fare of the countri/, minerals, ^'C. — The soil was origi- 
nally of at least middling fertility: but by e^•ery specicsof mismanagement 
(amid which over-cropping, frequent grazing, bad ploughing, scanty ma- 
niiring, and the culture of tobacco, stand conspicuous,) it has become 
pitiably barren. On high land six bushels of wheat, or ten of Indian corn, 
are the averagcproduct of an acre. Wheat yields about 3 A or 4 buthels to 
one of seed. 

The chief agricultural products arc wheat, maize (or Indian corn) and 
tobacco: the lavSt is dimini;>hing in quantity every year; owing more to the 
exhaustion of the lands .suitable to it:, grouth, than to a persuation of its 



i 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MADISON. 



225 



smiths, saddlers, carding machines, and 15 general stores and groceries. 
There are in this county 5 resident physicians and 2 attornej^s, 6 ministers 
of the gospel, and 15 churches or meeting houses, and a number of itine- 
rant preachers, principallj'' of the Methodist persuasion. The different reli- 
gious sects in this county are the Baptists, Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Lu- 
theransand Methodists — the Baptists being the most numerous. Population in 
1820, 8,490— in 1830, 9,236. It belongs to the eleventh judicial circuit, 
and sixth district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2179 70— in 1834, on lots, $39 
46— on land, $1350 54—2247 slaves, $561 75—1171 horses, $118 26— 
7 studs, $76 00—23 coaches, $47 25—3 carryalls, $3 00—22 gigs, $15 
25 — Total, $2211 51. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$248 10— in 1833, $316 82. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Cri gle rsville, p. O. 10 ms. N.( 
of the court house. 

Graves, P. O. situated in the wes- 
tern part of Madison, 108 miles from 
R. and 110 S. W. of W. 

James City, P. O. 87 ms. from 
W. and 105 from R. — situated on 
Crooked run, on the north side of 
Thoroughfare mountain, nine miles 
distant both from Madison and 
Culpeper court houses, on the line 
which divides the two counties of Cul- 
peper and Madison. It contains one 
large, well kept tavern, called Madi- 
son Inn, one mercantile store, one 
boot and shoe factory, a tailor, black- 
smith shop, and a merchant mill. — 
There is a Baptist house of worship 
in the vicinity. Population 50. 

MADISON, P. V. a.nAseat of jus- 
tice, situated near the centre of the 
county, 110 miles N. N. W. of R. 
and 96 S. W. by W. of W. in lat. 
38° 22' N. and long. 1° 15' W, of 
W. C. This village, besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, contains 34 
dwelling houses, 6 mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, 2 houses of public worship, 
of Avhich one belongs to the Episco- 
palians, and the other is free for all 
denominations, (of which the princi- 
pal part are Baptists, Methodists, E- 
piscopalians, Presbyterians, and Lu- 
therans,) and 2 well organized Sun- 
29 



day schools. There are in the vicinity 
5 manufacturing flour mills The 
mechanics of the village are 2 tanners 
and curriers, 2 saddler^ 2 boot and 
shoe makers, 1 wheelwright, 3 black- 
smiths, I coppersmith and tin plate 
worker, 1 wagon maker, 1 house 
joiner, 1 cabinet and wheat fan maker, 
and 4 tailors. The town is healthy, 
and improving. It has 2 resident at- 
torneys and 4 practising physicians; 
whole population 290. 

County Courts are held on the ith 
Thursday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in February, May, July and Oc- 
tober. 

Judge Field holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \2ihoi May and October. 

Rapid Ann Meeting House, P. 
O. situated in the western part of the 
county, 102 miles from R. and 104 
S. W. of W. This little village con- 
tains 8 dwelling houses, besides shops, 
&.C., 3 houses of public worship, 1 
Baptist, 1 Episcopalian, and 1 free for 
all denominations, 1 common school, 
3 mercantile stores, 1 house of enter- 
tainment, 1 tanyard, 2 wagon makers, 
1 chair maker, 1 boot and shoe facto- 
ry, 1 blacksmith shop, &c. Popula- 
tion 73 persons; of whom one is a 
physician. 



226 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 

MATHEWS. 

Mathews was created by act of Assembly, in 1700, and formed from a 
part of Gloucester county. This county is a peninsula, extending into the 
Chesapeake bay, united to the main by a narrow neck of land scarcely a 
mile wide, and its boundaries are almost entirely of water. It is bounded 
on the north by Piankatank river, Avhich separates it from Middlesex, and 
by the Chesapeake; on the south by the Chesapeake and Mob-Jack bays; 
on the east by the Chesapeake; and on the west by North river and Mob- 
Jack bay and a narrow neck of land unhing it to Gloucester — extending in 
lat. from 37° 22' to 37° 30' N. and long, from 0° 33' to 0° 48' E. of W. 
C. This county is indented by numerous iidets from the baj', which cut 
and divide the land into a number of small necks, that are bounded on each 
side by a creek or river. The principal rivers are the Piankatank, East, 
and North rivers. The former is a bold stream, about a mile wide at its 
mouth, and extending itself 30 or 40 milea^into the interior, terminates in 
the Dragon swamp. East river is about the same Avidth of the Piankatank 
at its mouth, which opens into Mob-Jack bay; it runs about 8 or 9 miles 
up, in the centre of the county, four miles from its mouth it sends off a 
branch, named Pudding creek, at the head of which is situated the court 
house. North river likewise enters into Mob-Jack bay ; it does not differ 
much in size from the two rivers just described, and runs up into Glouces- 
ter, for the distance of 15 miles. These rivers are all salt, of course, as 
they derive their Avaters Irom the bay, a little fresh water mingles with them 
at their heads, but does not materially affect their saltness,[^except after very 
heavy and long continued rains. Besides these rivers, there are creeks 
almost too numerous to be named. Muddy creek is at the upper part of the 
county, and forms part of the line of separation from Gloucester: it is a ve- 
ry inconsiderable creek, and enters the Piankatank. Cob's creek is rathtr 
larger, it is about a mile long, and enters the same river 3 or 4 miles above 
its mouth. Queen's creek is much more considerable in size, being a fourth 
of a mile Avide, and three miles in length; it enters the Piankatank at its 
mouth. About three miles below Queen's creek, is the mouth of Slut's 
creek, Avhich opens into Milford Haven, it is of the same size with Queen's 
creek. Two miles below are Lilley's and Billup's creeks, they are small 
and near each other; they enter Milford Haven. A part of the bay Avhich 
flows in between the main land and Gwyn's island, and extends from the 
mouth of Piankatank to Billup's creek, is called Milford HaA-en, and is a 
secure harbor for vessels. At the lower extremity of the Haven is situated 
a small, uninhabited island, named Rigby's, between Avhich and the main, 
is a passage called the Thoroughfare. A short distance beloAv this is Gar- 
den creek, Avhich is a small stream that enters into the Chesapeake. Off 
the mouth of this creek is a shoal, extending five miles out in the bay, nam- 
ed the Wolf Trap, and on which is stationed a light boat. Winter Harbor 
is a creek or inlet from the bay, Avhich is narroAv at its entrance, after rvm- 
ning a few hundred yards Avidens, and diverging extends itself mto small 
branches, which run a mile or two in the land. Horn Harbor is another 
inlet just below the former, being much larger but not extending itself any 
farther in the land. Dier's creek is an inconsiderable stream, just below 
Horn Harbor. The point of land lying beloAv Dier's creek, is the lowest 
extremity of the county, named New Point Comfort; it is a sandy point 
Avhich juts out into the bay, and on which is erected a Light House. After 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 227 

leaving' New Point Comfort and ascending- on the south side of the county, 
about one mile above is Harper's creek, which is small. Pepper creek two 
miles above is more considerable. Two or three miles higher up, is the 
mouth of East river, between which and the mouth of North river is a 
point called White's. Entering the North river a sliort distance from its 
mouth, is Godsey's creek, and 4 or 5 miles higher is Black Water creek, 
opening in the North river and running a mile or two into the interior. 

This county is only 20 miles long, and in its wide.st section not more than 
8, and area 127 sq. miles, varying from that width, down to a point, so that 
it will be seen from the sketch of the water courses, that the land is divided 
into many sections or necks : — thus Chapel neck is a small body of land 
lying between North river and Black Water: — White's neck lies between 
North and East rivers, and consists of a considerable body of land which 
terminates at White's point. The land lying between Cob's and Q,ueen'scr. is 
called Cow neck, and terminates in two points denominated Iron and Bur- 
ton's points. Between Queen's and Slut's creeks, is situated Crab neck, at 
the north corner of which neck is a place called Cricket hill. Lying be- 
tween Lillej^'s and Billup's creeks, is Lilley's neck. Between Winter and 
Horn Harbors, is a small point of land named Potatoe neck. The body of 
land which is situated between Horn Harbor and East river, extending from 
thence to the lowest extremity of the county is known as Point Comfort. 

The mo.st remarkable feature in the topography of this county is its ex- 
treme Icvelness. The banks of the Piankatank river are somewhat elevated 
and from thence the land descends in an almost uninterrupted plain, until it 
terminates in the waters of the bay. It was evidently at some period co- 
vered by the sea, or bay, as the whole face of the country incontestibly 
pi'oves. There are about 60,000 acres of land in this county, which is of 
a medium quality as regards feltility. It produces corn and oats, but is not 
so well adapted to wheat, from its extreme humidity; the country lays so 
remarkably level, that it is a very laborious and difficult operation to drain 
and lay dry the land. The soil is generally a sandy loam, with a substra- 
tum of clay; there is little or none of silicious earth, nor does it contain any 
calcareous matter. Marl has been found in some parts of this county, and 
if sought, could no doubt be obtained in most places by digging to a suffi- 
cient depth. In digging Avells, coccle shells, oyster shells, and the shells of 
many testaceous animals, not known at the present day, are found 20 feet 
below the surface; together with wood, roots, weeds and a variety of unde- 
composed vegetable substances. Recently, the leg bone of an animal, sup- 
posed to be an ox, although much larger than that animal now exists, was 
found twenty feet below the surface, which is lower than the bed of the con- 
tiguous river. These facts present matter for interesting. speculations to the 
minds of the geologist and naturalist. 

The natural growth of timber on this land is oak, which ship carpenters 
say, will vie with the live oak, pine, chesnut and gum. The land after 
cultivation, if permitted to lie out, invariably puts up a growth of pine. 

Mathews contains a population of 7666 souls, of which number 3481 are 
slaves, and 190 free negroes. The people of this county are engaged in 
ship building, maritime and agricultural pursuits. Until recently the two 
former occupied their principal attention; so entirely were they engaged in 
ship building some years back, that the cultivation of the soil, was almost 
entirely neglected, and it was necessary to import corn for home consump- 
tion — hence it is that this county has been behind others in agricultural 



228 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 

slfill; lately vessel building has decreased, and agriculture receives more 
attention. About 20 years ago, there were annually built one hundred ves- 
sels of various sizes and denominations, from large ships down to the small- 
est craft; at the present period there are built, every year, from 20 to 30 
vessels of different burdens. There are belonging to this county about 200 
ship carpenters, a great number of them find employment in the Navy 
Yards and other places during the summer months, and return to their 
homes on the approach of winter. The low price at which vessels are built 
render it rather unprofitable, and the workmen cannot all find employment 
at home. 

East river is a port of entry, and has a Collector, and Inspector of the 
revenue attaclied to it; there are 1700 tons of shipping belonging to this 
port, among which is one ship, one brig, and a number of schooners and 
small skippers. Some of them make voyages to almost every part of the 
commercial world, hence it is, that many of the young men are trained to 
the perils of the sea. 

This county is supplied with meal by means of wind and tide mills, there 
being 10 wind and 2 tide mills, with only one common grist mill; conse- 
quently the people do not feel much inconvenience from long, dry seasons, 
except in procuring water for the cattle. The land, lying almost on a dead 
level, there cannot be any fresh Avater streams running through it, and con- 
sequently in dry seasons every cattle hole, at which the stock was watered 
dries up, and they suffer much from thirst. Sometimes, in excessive drought, 
the inhabitants have difficulty in procuring water to drink themselves. Wells 
are generally dug 8 or 10 feet deep, so that the water they contain is that 
which filtrates through the earth, and when the ground becomes dry, the 
Avater ceases to flow; but recently wells have been dug 30 feet, when large 
veins of water have been found, which are inexhaustible. There are a few 
springs of excellent water, but they are rare. The manufacture of castor 
oil has been carried on by only one press, a few years since the palma 
christi bean was extensively cultivated, but it is now reduced. 

On the east side of the county is an island comprehended within its limits 
and known by the name of Gwyn's island; it contains 2000 acres of land, 
and 200 inhabitants. It is surrounded by the waters of the Chesapeake; it 
has two points, that to the north is called Cherry Point, and that to the south 
Sandy Point. There is a tradition, that Pocahontas, in attempting to swim 
across the Piankatank river, was near drowning, but was rescued from a 
watery grave by an individual, to whom, as a reward for his services, she 
gave this island. After Lord Dunmore was driven from Williamsburg, he 
took up his quarters on this island, where he remained some time. 

The predominant religion of the people is the Methodist; there are in 
this county seven meeting houses belonging to that denomination, two of 
which belongs to the reformed Methodist; there are two Baptist meeting 
houses, the congregations attached to which arc rather thin ; there are a 
few Episcopalians and Universalists, avIio, however have no places for pub- 
lic worship; the latter never had any church, and the churches held by the 
former, under the old established English church, have fallen into dilapida- 
tion and decay. There is a Sunday school kept at almost every house of 
public worship in the county, and several common schools, but no academy. 
Population in 1810, 4227— in 1820, 6920— in 1830, 7666. It belongs to 
the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $0r>5 98 
—in 1834, on land, $380 13—1694 davcs, $423 50—559 horses, $33 54 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 



229 



—13 coaches, $4G 10—14 carryalls, $16 20—86 gigs, $50 60— Total, 
8950 07. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bell Isle, P. O. in the northern 
part of the county, 13 ms. S. E. of R. 
and 182 S. S. E. of W. 

MATHEWS C. H. or Westville, 
P. V. and seal of justice, is situated 
near the centre of the county. It lies 
in 37° 35' N. lat. and 0° 40' E. long, 
of Washington, 100 ms. E. of R. and 
184 from W. C. Westville contains 
about 30 houses, 4 mercantile stores, 
1 lanyard, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1 
tailor, 2 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 car- 
riage maker, and 1 tavern. The pub- 
lic buildings are a very neat, new C. 
H., 2 jails, 1 for criminals and the 
other for debtors, and a clerk's office. 



These houses are all well built of 
brick. Westville is a port of entry; 
there are 2 regular packets which ply 
between this place and Norfolk week- 
ly, and 1 that runs from it to Balti- 
more. Population 150, including 3 
regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 2tZ 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and NovW. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the Tuesdays after the \st 
Mondays in April and October. 

North End, P. O. in the W. part of 
theCo.,91 ms. E. of R. «Sc 175 from W. 



MECKLENBURG. 

Mecklenburg, was created by the legislature in 1764, and formed out 
of a portion of Lunenburg: — It is bounded on the N. by Meherrin river, 
which divides it from the county of Lunenburg, on the E. by a line runniug 
S. from the Meherrin to the Roanoke river, where it intersects the North 
Carolina line. On the S. by the state of N. C. on the W. by Aron's creek, 
and the Dan and Staunton rivers, which divide it from Halifax, and by a 
line running N. 31° E. 15^ ms. which divides it from the county of Charlotte. 
It extends from 36° 30', to 36° 59' N. lat. and in long. 1°08', to 1°40' W. of W. 
C. — Length 36, mean Avidth 18, and area 736 sq. ms. The rivers Dan 
and Staunton are separated by a narrow slip of land called the fork of Hali- 
fax, for 8 ms. Avhich in that distance is no where more than I mile wide, 
and in several places not more than 100 yards, and has three passages 
uniting the 2 rivers before their final junction at Clarksville where they 
form the Roanoke. 

The Dan from Aron's creek, as the river meanders to its junction with the 
Staunton at Clarksville, is 12| ms., and its course is E. S. E. the course of 
the Staunton is S. E. by E. and its distance as the river meanders from the 
Charlotte line, to Clarksville, is 9 ms. The course of the Roanoke from 
Clarksville to the S. E. corner of the county, Avhere it intersects the N. C. 
line, is E. by S. — Thus the Roanoake and Dan divide the county into two 
unequal parts; that on the S. side of the river is somewhat the largest, but 
much the narrowest, and lies in the form of a rectangular triangle, the 
legs of which are the N. C. line; and Aron's creek, and the rivers Roanoke 
and Dan form the hypothenuse, throwing about 200 sq. ms. of this countj', 
on the S side of the river. There are on the Roanoke, about 12,000 acres 
of very fertile low grounds, which are valued on an average, at $30 00 per 



230 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 

acre: — the average width of the river is about 250 yards, and it has a de- 
scent or fall, of about 2 feet in a mile: the greatest falls are those at the 
Horseford, and Butcher's creek falls, each of which has a fall of about 5 
feet, in the distance of a mile. Fish are not very abundant in this river, but 
in the proper season a few shad are caught on the slopes fixed in the ri- 
ver, and with small seins: — the other fish are jack, chub, perch, round fish, 
<fcc. This river is navigable for boats, carrying 9 or 10 hogsheads of to- 
bacco. The river Meherrin which forms the northern boundary of the 
county, is (below the forks of the N. and S. Meherrin) about 40 yards wide 
on an average, and the decent, or fall of the river is about 3 feet in a mile. 
The bed of this river, is about 10 feet higher than the bed ot the Roanoke. 
The quantity of low grounds on it, is not more than 1,000 acres, valued at 
an average price of $20 00 per acre. This ri^^r would be one of the 
easiest to render navigable of any in the state, by means of lock and dam 
navigation, from the head to Bellfield, in Greensville, where the Petersburg- 
Rail road crosses the river. The principal creeks in the county, on the S. 
side of the river, head in Granville, N. C, and are Aron's creek, which 
divides it from Halifax, on which are located 3 grist and 2 saw mills; and 
Bufialo creek on the margin of which, is 1 grist mill. On the latter creek 
are situated those valuable medicinal springs, called the Buffalo springs 
which in the watering season are visited by a number of persons from the 
south eastern part of the state, who do not choose to go as far up the coun- 
try as the mountains: those 2 creeks empty into the Dan river. On Blue 
Creek, half a mile below Clarksville, is situated 1 saw and grist mill. 
Grassey Creek has 1 grist mill on it, and receives before it empties into the 
river the water of Bearer pond creek: this creek empties into the Roanoke 
three fourths of a mile above Field's kxxy. Ntitbitsh has 1 grist mill lo- 
caated on it, and empties into the river, 1| ms. below Haskins' ferry. Cof- 
ton creek enters the river 1^ ms. below^ Alexande'rs ferry, and Smif/i^s 
creek, 2 ms. below St. Tammany. Those creeks which empty into tlie 
Staunton, on the N. side of the river, are the Biff, Little, and Middle Blue- 
stone. Big Bh/esto7ie heads in Charlotte, and Little and Middle Bluestone. 
empty into it before it reaches the river. Kettle Creek also empties into 
Bluestone. Island creek is rather a biou or arm of the river, Avhich breaks 
or runs out below Skipwith's ferry, and again enters the river, about .5 ms. 
below Clarksville; Itut before it empties into the river again, it receives the 
Sandy creek. On Butcher'' s creek is situated 2 mills, and empties into the 
Roanoke at Butcher's creek falls, about 10 ms. below Clarksville. Allen^s 
creek is the largest and longest creek in the county, and discharges more 
water than any other, — it has 3 mills on it, and receives on its passage to the 
river Coleman''s, and Mine creeks from the W. and Lato7i\s creek, Co.r\<i 
creek and the Long Branch on the E. Coleman^ s and Co.r^s creek have 
each 1 mill on them. Audi's creek divides the lands of the county on the 
N. side of the river, into two nearly equal parts, it enters the river about 2 
ms above Alexander's ferry. On Miles'' creek is located 3 mills and empties 
into the river at Goode's ferry. Dockcry creek empties into Miles' creek. 
Aveyi's creek and Parham's creek empty into Flat creek, which has 1 
mill on it, and empties into the river 2^ ms. below Goode's ferry. Great 
creek has 1 mill on it, and empties into the river 7^ rns. below St. Tannna- 
r\y. Robin'' s creek empties into the Roanoke, near Ilaskins' ferry. Most 
of the larger creeks which empty into Roanolce, head within 2 or 3 ms. ot 
ihe Meherrin. 'J'here are several other small creeks which (mpty into 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 231 

Roanoke, or into the large creeks before they get to the river. The creeks 
which empty into Meherrin river, are Fhmcicood, which rises in Charlotte, 
Otter creek, Blarkstone creek, Jiuckhorn moinitaia, and Siitli's creek. Tay 
lor''s creek rises in this county, and empties into the Meherrin 1 mile below 
Gee's Bridge, in the county of Brunswick. The quantity of low grounds 
which lie on the creeks and branches, may be estimated at about 4,000 
acres, and is supposed to be worth an average price of $20 an acre. 

The most eastern mountain in the state is in this county, and lies on the 
Meherrin river, at the mouih of Mountain creek, — it is called Watkins' 
mountain. This county is neither mountainous or level, but is beautifully 
undulating, with hills and vallies: it is more hilly near the Meherrin river 
than elsewhere. The ridge which divides the waters of the Roanoke, from 
those of the Meherrin, is 210 ft. higher than the bed of the Roanoke, and 
200 higher than the bed of the Meherrin. 

The soil of this county is generally fertile, although the ridges are thin 
and poor, yet it is generally a free soil. The lower, or eastern part of the 
county, is generally a light gray, or sandy soil, but free and productive; 
producing corn, oats cotton and tobacco of excellent quality, and as abundantly 
as any otner part of the county; it is in truth, the best cotton land in the 
countj% but it is not so good for wheat as the other parts. There is a strip 
of land, running nearly through the centre of the county, from N. to S. 
about 10 ms. in width, commencing 1 mile below Allen's creek and con- 
tinuing for 3 miles above Butcher's creek; the land is stifTand red, — it con- 
sists of some of the best tracts of land in the county, though upon the ridges 
near Allen's and Butcher's creeks, some of it is sterile, but generally it is 
the best wheat land in the county, and produces a rich heavy crop of to- 
bacco; and in wet years excellent crops of corn and oats. The land in the 
upper part of the county above this red belt, is a light grey, gravelly soil, 
and produces abundantly corn, oats, wheat and tobacco, but very little cotton 
is made in this section. The land on the S. side of Roanoke, is generally a 
light grey, fertile soil; and near Buffalo creek is a very free, productive 
grain land ; on, and near Grassy creek, both above and beloAv, it is not so 
good, — on Nutbush, Cotton, and Smith's creek, it is generally very good 
and productive in grain, cotton and tobacco. The land on Bluestone, Cox's 
creek, Miles' creek, and Flat creek, is the best in the county, except the 
Roanoke plantations. The land on Allen's creek and Butcher's creek, 
although it contains a few of the best upland tracts in the county, is gene- 
rally inferior to other parts. 

The minerology of this county is but little known. There are some old 
pits, Avhich are said to have been dug during, or before the revolution, by a 
mining company; and it is said that considerable quantities of silver were 
obtained from them; but nothing has been attempted with them within the 
last 50 or 60 years, — they are situated on Mine creek, near the centre of 
the county. There are indications of coal and iron to be found in several 
places, but no exertions have ever been made to discover the quantity, or 
value of it. There is a vein of granite, running through the county from 
S. W. to N. E. and in many of the hills, much gray rock. On most of the 
districts there is much common white flint rock; and in many places a spe- 
cies of rock which is of a yellowish gray color, which pulverizes very 
easily, and makes a fine grit for polishing metals. The tinib(>r is oak, pine 
and hickory, — the pine is principally confined to the lands about the centre 
of the county, between Cox's creek, and Biueslone; the oak is principally 



232 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 

red oak, black jack and Spanish oak, with some white oak and post oak- 
The grape vine is very abundant. The under growth is chinquepin, dog- 
wood, sassafras, shumack, &c. The best qualities of the high land, has for 
its growth, post oak, hickory and black jack, or red oak ; the thinner soils 
are covered with white oak, Spanish oak and pine. The low grounds pro- 
duce considerable quantities of poplar, sycamore, birch, beech, ash, elm, 
&c. with some paupau, red bud and buckeye. The products of agriculture 
in this county are principally corn, wheat, tobacco and oats, with some cot- 
ton. — The quantity of tobacco, may be est'imated at 3,500 hogsheads an- 
nually; the culture of cotton has been much reduced within the last 3 or 4 
years, and at this time does not much exceed 100 bales for exportation; 
Avheat is produced in considerable quantities for exportation — and the cul- 
ture of it is increasing since the Roanoke has been rendered navigable, and 
would be still further increased, if the Meherrin was rendered navigable, 
which it is expected will shortly be undertaken. 

The amount of agricultural capital employed in the county may be stated 
as follows : — 

Value of the land at cash price, .... $2,150,00000 

Value of slaves, at do. do. .... 2,750,000 00 

Horses, cattle and plantation implements, - - 275,000 00 

$5,175,000 00 

It may be safely assumed, after deducting the clothing, feeding and tax 
of the slaves, — the feeding and tax of the horses and other stock, and the 
repairs of plantation tools, that the profit on the whole agricultural capital, 
counting the increase of the slaves, stock, &c. is equal to about 15 per cent, 
per annum ; of which the whites, who are not actually employed in the field, 
must be supported, which leaves but little, — not over 3 or 4 per cent, of 
clear profits to the county. 

The tobacco, cotton and wheat, is nearly all sold in Petersburg, Rich- 
mond and Clarksville, but a considerable quantity of wheat, is manufactured 
into flour and some of it is sent down the Roanoke, to the lower parts of N. 
Carolina, and to Norfolk. 

Randolph Macon College is situated in this county, 1 mile W. of 
Boydton, and bids fair to be a very valuable and respectable literary insti- 
tution; it has not been 2 years since its first establishment, and it has at pre- 
sent 3 professors, besides the President of the college, — an excellent 
preparatory school attached to it; and at the present session 87 students 
in college, and 66 in the prepai'atory school; it is considered to be principal- 
ly under the direction and care of the Methodist church, but not entirely so, 
as several of the Trustees do not belong to that church. 

There is in Boydton a female Academy, which deservedly ranks high as 
a boarding school for young ladies; and 2 other very respectable boarding 
schools for young ladies in the county ; but the general plan of education 
in this county, is the old fashioned mode of building a little log house in 
each neighborhood, where there are as many scholars to be had as will em- 
ploy a teacher, at about $100 or 150, and the price which is generally paid 
for tuition, is from $7 to 10 for each pupil, for the scholastic year of from 10 
to 1 1 months. The number of common schools in the county is 62, and the 
average number of pupils to each is 16, — making 990 pupils in the common 
schools; — there are 64 in the young ladies boarding schools, 66 in the R. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MADISON. 



225 



smlllis, saddlers, carding machines, and 15 general stores and groceries. 
There are in this county 5 resident physicians and 2 attorneys, 6 ministers 
of the gospel, and 1.5 churches or meeting houses, and a number of itine- 
rant preachers, principally of the Methodist persuasion. The different reli- 
gious sects in this county are the Baptists, Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Lu- 
theransand Methodists — the Baptists being the most numerous. Population in 
1820, 8,490— in 1830, 9,230. It belongs to the eleventh judicial circuit, 
and sixth district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2179 70 — in 1834, on lots, $39 
46— on land, $1350 54—2247 slaves, $5G1 75—1171 horses, $118 2G— 
7 studs, $7G 00 — 23 coaches, $47 25 — 3 carryalls, $3 00 — 22 gigs, $15 
25 — Total, $2211 51. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$218 10— in 1833, $31G 82. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Criglersville, p. O. 10 ms. N. 
of the court house. 

Grave.s, p. O. situated in the wes- 
tern part of Madison, 108 miles from 
R. and 110 S. W. of W. 

James City, P. O. 87 ms. from 
W. and 105 from R. — situated on 
Crooked run, on the north side of 
Thoroughfare mountain, nine miles 
distant both from Madison and 
Culpeper court houses, on the line 
which divides the two counties of Cul- 
peper and Madison. It contains one 
large, well kept tavern, called Madi- 
son Inn, one mercantile store, one 
boot and shoe factory, a tailor, black- 
smith shop, and a merchant mill. — 
There is a Baptist house of Avorship 
in the vicinity. Population 50. 

MADISON, P. V. ^ndi seat of jus- 
tice, situated near the centre of the 
county, 110 miles N. N. W. of R. 
and 9G S. W. by W. of W. in lat. 
38° 22" N. and long. 1° 15' W. of 
W. C. This village, besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, contains 34 
dwelling houses, G mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, 2 houses of public worship, 
of which one belongs to the Episco- 
palians, and the other is free for all 
denominations, (of which the princi- 
pal part are Baptists, Methodists, E- 
piscopalians, Presbyterians, and Lu- 
therans,) and 2 well organized Sun- 
29 



day schools. There are in the vicinity 
5 manufacturing flour mills. The 
mechanics of the village are 2 tanners 
and curriers, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and 
shoe makers, 1 wheelwright, 3 black- 
smiths, I coppersmith and tin plate 
worker, 1 wagon maker, 1 house 
joiner, 1 cabinet and wheat fan maker, 
and 4 tailors. The town is healthy, 
and improving. It has 2 resident at- 
torneys and 4 practising physicians; 
whole population 290. 

County Courts are held on the 4/A 
Thursday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in February, May, July and Oc- 
tober. 

Judge Field holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 12?Aof May tin6. October. 

Rapid Ann Meeting House, P. 
O. situated in the western part of the 
county, 102 miles from R. and 104 
S. W. of W. This little village con- 
tains 8 dwelling houses, besides shops, 
&.C., 3 houses of public worship, 1 
Baptist, 1 Episcopalian, and 1 free for 
all denominations, 1 common school, 
3 mercantile stores, 1 house of enter- 
tainment, 1 tanyard, 2 wagon makers, 
1 chair maker, 1 boot and shoe facto- 
ry, 1 blacksmith shop, &c. Popula- 
tion 73 persons; of whom one is a 
physician. 



226 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 

MATHEWS. 

IMathews was created by act of Assembly, in 1790, and Ibrmrd from a 
part of Gloucester county. This county is a peninsula, extending into the 
Chesapeake bay, united to the main by a narrow neck of land scarcely a 
mile, wide, and its boundaries are almost entirely of water. It is bounded 
on the north by Piankatank river, which separates it from Middlesex, and 
by the Chesapeake; on the south by the Chesapeake and Mob- Jack bays; 
on the east by the Chesapeake; and on the west by North river and Mob- 
Jack bay and a narrow neck of land uniting it to Gloucester — extending in 
lat. from 37° 22' to 37° 30' N. and long, from 0° 33' to 0° 48' E. of W. 
C. This county is indented by numerous inlets from the bay, which cut 
and divide the land into a number of small necks, that aie bounded on each 
side by a creek or river. The principal rivers are the Pknkatank, East, 
and North rivers. The former is a bold stream, about a mile wide at its 
mouth, and extending itself 30 or 40 miles ;into the interior, terminates in 
the Dragon swamp. East river is about the same width of the Piankatank 
at its mouth, which opens into Mob- Jack bay; it runs about 8 or 9 miles 
up, in the centre of the county, four miles from its mouth it sends off a 
branch, named Pudding creek, at the head of which is situated the court 
house. North river likewise enters into Mob-Jack bay ; it does not differ 
much in size from the two rivers just described, and runs up into Glouces- 
ter, for the distance of 15 miles. These rivers are all salt, of course, as 
they derive their waters from the bay, a little fresh water mingles with them 
at their heads, but does not materially affect their saltness.^except after very 
heavy and long continued rains. Besides these rivers, there are creeks 
almost too numerous to be named. Muddy creek is at the upper part of the 
county, and forms part of the line of separation from Gloucester: it is a ve- 
ry inconsiderable creek, and enters the Piankatank. Cob's creek is rather 
larger, it is about a mile long, and enters the same river 3 or 4 miles above 
its mouth. Queen's creek is much more considerable in size, being a fourth 
of a mile wide, and three miles in length; it enters the Piankatank at it.s 
mouth. About three miles below Queen's creek, is the mouth of Slut's 
creek, Avhich opens into Milford Haven, it is of the same size with Clueen's 
creek. Two miles below are Lilley's and Billup's creeks, they are small 
and near each other; they enter Milford Haven. A part of the bay which 
flloAvs in between the main land and Gwyn's island, and extends from the 
mouth of Piankatank to Billup's creek, is called Milford Haven, and is a 
secure harbor for vessels. At the lower extremity of the Haven is situated 
a small, uninhabited island, named Rigby's, between which and the main, 
is a passage called the Thoroughfare. A short distance below this is Gar- 
den creek, which is a small stream that enters into the Chesapeake. Off 
the mouth of this creek is a shoal, extending five miles out in the bay, nam- 
ed the Wolf Trap, and on which is stationed a light boat. Winter Harbor 
is a creek or inlet from the bay, which is narrow at its entrance, after run- 
ning a few hundred yards widens, and diverging extends itself into small 
branches, which run a mile or two in the land. Horn Harbor is anothc r 
inlet just below the former, being much larger but not extending itself any 
farther in the land. Dier's creek is an inconsiderable stream, just below 
Horn Harbor. The point of land lying below Dier's creek, is "the lowest 
extremity of the county, named New Point Comfort; it is a sandy point 
which juts out into the bay, and on which is erected a Lio-ht House. After 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 227 

leaving New Point Comfort and ascending- on the south side of the county, 
about one mile above is Harper's creek, which is small. Pepper creek two 
miles above is more considerable. Tvvo or three miles higher up, is the 
mouth of East river, between which and the mouth of North river is a 
point called White's. Entering the North river a short distance from its 
mouth, is Godscy's creek, and 4 or 5 miles higher is Black Water creek, 
opening in the North river and running a mile or two into the interior. 

This county is only 20 miles long, and in its widest section not more than 
8, and area 127 sq. miles, varying from that width, down to a point, so that 
it will be seen from the sketch of the water courses, that the land is divided 
into many sections or necks: — thus Chapel neck is a small body of land 
lying between North river and Black W^ater: — White's neck lies between 
North and East rivers, and consists of a considerable body of land which 
terminates at White's point. The land lying between Cob's and Queen's cr. is 
called Cow neck, and terminates in two points denominated Iron and Bur- 
ton's points. Between Queen's and Slut's creeks, is situated Crab neck, at 
the north corner of which neck is a place called Cricket hill. Lying be- 
tween Lilley's and Billup's creeks, is Lilley's neck. Between Winter and 
Horn Harbors, is a small point of land named Potatoe neck. The body of 
land which is situated between Horn Harbor and East river, extending from 
thence to the lowest e.vtremity of the county is known as Point Comfort. 

The most remarkable feature in the topography of this county is its ex- 
treme levelness. The banks of the Piankatank river are somewhat elevated 
and from thence the land descends in an almost uninterrupted plain, until it 
terminates in the waters of the bay. It was evidently at some period co- 
vered by the sea, or bay, as the whole face of the country incontestiblv 
proves. There are about 00,000 acres of land in this county, which is of 
a medium quality as regards feltility. It produces corn and oats, but is not 
so well adapted to wheat, from its extreme humidity; the country lays so 
remarkably level, that it is a very laborious and ditlicult operation to drain 
and lay dry the land. The soil is generally a sandy loam, with a substra- 
tuni of clay; there is little or none of silicious earth, nor does it contain any 
calcareous matter. Marl has been found in some parts of this county, and 
if sought, could no doubt be obtained in most places by digging to a suffi- 
cient depth. In digging wells, coccle shells, oyster shells, and the shells of 
many testaceous animals, not known at the present day, are found 20 feet 
below the surface; together with wood, roots, weeds and a variety of unde- 
composed vegetable substances. Recently, the leg bone of an animal, sup- 
posed to be an ox, although much larger than that animal now exists, Avas 
found twenty feet below the surface, which is lower than the bed of the con- 
tiguous river. These facts present matter for interesting speculations to the 
minds of the geologist and naturalist. 

The natural growth of timber on this land is oak, which ship carpenters 
say, will vie with the live oak, pine, chesnut and gum. The land after 
cultivation, if permitted to lie out. invariably puts up a growth of pine. 

Mathews contains a population of 76GG souls, of which number 3481 are 
slaves, and 190 free negroes. The people of this county are engaged in 
ship building, maritime and agricultural pursuits. Until recently the two 
former occupied their principal attention; so entirely were they engaged in 
ship building some years back, that the cultivation of the soil, was almost 
f-ntirely neglected, and it was necessary to import corn for home consump- 
tion — hence it i.s that this county has been behind others in agricultural 



228 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. 

sTfill; lately vessel building has decreased, and agriculture receives more 
attention. About 20 years ago, there were annually built one hundred ves- 
sels of various sizes and denominations, from large ships down to the small- 
est craft; at the present period there are built, every year, from 20 to 30 
vessels of different burdens. There are belonging to this county about 200 
ship carpenters, a great number of them find employment in the Navy 
Yards and other places during the summer months, and return to their 
homes on the approach of winter. The low price at which vessels are built 
render it rather vmprofitable, and the workmen cannot all find employment 
at home. 

East river is a port of entry, and has a Collector, and Inspector of the 
revenue attached to it; there are 1700 tons of sliipping belonging to this 
port, among which is one ship, one brig, and a number of schooners and 
small skippers. Some of them make voyages to almost every part of the 
commercial world, hence it is, that many of the 'young men are trained to 
the perils of the sea. 

This county is supplied with meal by means of wind and tide mills, there 
being 10 wind and 2 tide mills, with only one common grist mill; conse- 
quently the people do not feel much inconvenience from long, dry seasons, 
except in procuring Avater for the cattle. The land, lying almost on a dead 
level, there cannot be any fresh water streams running through it, and con- 
sequently in dry seasons every cattle hole, at which the stock was watered 
dries up, and they suffer much from thirst. Sometimes, in excessive drought, 
the inhabitants have difficulty in procuring water to drink themselves. Wells 
are generally dug 8 or 10 feet deep, so that the water they contain is that 
which filtrates through the earth, and when the ground becomes dry, the 
water ceases to flow; but recently wells have been dug 30 feet, when large 
veins of water have been found, which are inexhaustible. There are a few 
springs of excellent water, but they are rare. The manufacture of castor 
oil has been carried on by only one press, a few years since the palma 
christi bean was extensively cultivated, but it is now reduced. 

On the east side of the county is an island comprehended within its limits 
and known by the name of Gwyn's island; it contains 2000 acres of land, 
and 200 inhabitants. It is surrounded by the waters of the Chesapeake; it 
has two points, that to the north is called Cherry Point, and that to the south 
Sandy Point. There is a tradition, that Pocahontas, in attempting to swim 
across the Piankatank river, Avas near drowning, but was rescued from a 
watery grave by an individual, to whom, as a reward for his services, she 
gave this island. After Lord Dunmore was driven from Williamsburg, he 
took up his quarters on this island, where he remained some time. 

The predominant religion of the people is the Methodist; there are in 
this county seven meeting houses belonging to that denomination, two of 
which belongs to the reformed Methodist; there are two Baptist meeting 
houses, the congregations attached to which are rather thin ; there are a 
few Epi.scopalians and Universalists, who, however have no places for pub- 
lic worship; the latter never had any church, and the churches held by the 
former, under the old established English church, have fallen into dilapida- 
tion and decay. There is a Sunday school kept at almost every house of 
public worship in the county, and several common schools, but no academy. 
Population in 1810, 4227— in 1820, 6920— in 1830, 7606. It belongs to 
the fourth judicial circuit and second district. 7'a.\es paid in 1833, $9r^h 98 
-—in 1834i on land, $380 13—1691 slaves, $423 .50—559 horses, $33 54 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 



220 



—18 coaches, $46 10— U carryalls, $10 20— 8G irigs, SCO GO— Total, 
$950 07. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &.c. 



Bell Isle, P. O. in the northern 
part of the county, 1 3 ms. S. E. of R. 
and 182 S. S. E."of W. 

MATHEWS C. H. or WesU-ille, 
P. V. and seal of justice, is situated 
near the centre of the county. It lies 
in 37^ 35' N. lat. and 0° 40' E. Ion?. 
of Washin.frton, 100 ms. E. of R. and 
184 from W. C. Weslville contains 
about 30 houses, 4 mercantile stores, 
1 lanyard, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1 
tailor, 2 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 car- 
riag-e maker, and 1 tavern. The pub- 
lic buildings are a very neat, new C. 
H., 2 jails, 1 for criminals and the 
other for debtors, and a clerk's ofllce. 



These liouses are all well built of 
brick. Westville is a port of entry; 
there are 2 regular packets which ply 
between this place and Norfolk week- 
ly, and 1 that runs from it to Balti- 
moi'e. Population 150, including 3 
regular physicians. 

County Courts arc held on the 2d 
Mondaj/ in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Nov^r. 

JuDCJE Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the Tuesdays after the \st 
Mondays iii April and October. 

North End, P. O. in the W. part of 
the Co., 91 ms. E. of R. &l 175 from W. 



MECKLENBURG. 

Mecklenburg, was created by the legislature in 1764, and formed out 
of a portion of Lunenburg: — It is bounded on the N. by Meherrin river, 
which divides it from the county of Lunenburg, on the E. by a line running 
S. from the Meherrin to the Roanoke river, where it intersects the North 
Carolina line. On the S. by the stale of N. C. on the W. by Aron's creek, 
and the Dan and Staunton rivers, which divide it from Halifax, and by a 
line running N. 31° E. 15^- ms. which divides it from the county of Charlotte. 
It extends from 36° 30', to 36° 59' N. lat. and in long. 1°08', to 1° 40' W. ofW. 
C. — Length 36, mean Avidth 18, and area 736 sq. ms. The rivers Dan 
and Staunton are separated by a narrow slip of land called the fork of Hali- 
fax, for 8 ms. which in that distance is no where more than 1 mile wide, 
and in several places not more than 100 yards, and has three passao-es 
uniting the 2 rivers before their final junction at Clarksville where they 
form the Roanoke. 

The Dan from Aron's creek, as the river meanders to its junction with the 
Staunton at Clarksville, is 12^ ms., and its course is E. S. E. the course of 
the Sta\uiton is S. E. by E. and its distance as the river meanders from the 
Charlotte line, to Clarksville, is 9 ms. The course of the Roanoke from 
Clarksville to the S. E. corner of the county, Avhere it intersects the N. C. 
line, is E. by S. — Thus the Roanoake and Dan divide the county into two 
unequal parts; that on the S. side of the river is somewhat the largest, but 
much the narrowest, and lies in the form of a rectangular triangle, the 
legs of which are the N. C. line; and Aron's creek, and the rivers Roanoke 
and Dan form the hypothenuse, throwing about 200 sq. ms. of this count}-, 
on the S side of the river. There are on the Roanoke, about 12,000 acres 
of very fertile low grounds, wliich are valued on an average, at $30 00 per 



230 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 

acre: — the average width of the river is about 250 yards, and it has a de- 
scent or fall, of about 2 feet in a mile: the greatest falls are those at the 
Horseford, and Butcher's creek falls, each of which has a fall of about 5 
feet, in the distance of a mile. Fish are not very abundant in this river, but 
in the proper season a few shad are caught on the slopes fixed in the ri- 
ver, and with small seins: — the other fish are jack, chub, perch, round fish, 
&c. This river is navigable for boats, carrying 9 or 10 hogsheads of to- 
bacco. The river Meherrin which forms the northern boundary of the 
county, is (below the forks of the N. and S. Meherrin) about 40 ^-ards wide 
on an average, and the decent, or fall of the river is about 3 feet in a mile. 
The bed of this river, is about 10 feet higher than the bed ot the Roanoke. 
The quantity of low grounds on it, is not more than 1,000 acres, valued at 
an average price of $20 00 per acre. This rluir would be one of the 
easiest to render navigable of any in the state, by means of lock and dam 
navigation, from the head to Bellfield, in Greensville, where the Petersburg- 
Rail road crosses the river. The principal creeks in the county, on the S. 
side of the river, head in Granville, N. C, and are Aron's creek, w hich 
divides it from Halifax, on which are located 3 gri.st and 2 .saw mills; and 
Buftalo creek on the margin of which, is 1 grist mill. On the latter creek 
are situated those valuable medicinal springs, called the Buffalo springs 
which in the watering season are visited by a number of persons from the 
south eastern part of the state, who do not choose to go as far up the coun- 
try as the mountains: those 2 creeks empty into the Dan river. On Blue 
Creek, half a mile below Clarksville, is situated 1 saw and grist mill. 
Grassey Creek has 1 grist mill on it, and receives before it empties into the 
river the water of Bearer pond creek: this creek empties into the Roanoke 
three fourths of a mile above Field's ferry. Nutbush has I grist mill lo- 
caated on it, and empties into the river, 1^ ms. below Haskins' ferry. Cot- 
ton creek enters the river \% ms. below Alexande'rs ferry, and Smithes 
creek, 2 ms. below St. Tammany. Those creeks which empty into the 
Staunton, on the N. side of the river, are the Big, Little, and Middle Blue- 
stone. Big Bliiestonc heads in Charlotte, and Little and Middle Bluestone 
empty into it before it reaches the river. Kettle Creek also empties into 
Bluestone. Island creek is rather a biou or arm of the river, which breaks 
or runs out below Skipwith's ferry, and again enters the river, about 5 ms. 
below Clarksville; but before it empties into the river again, it receives the 
<Sa-*% creek. On Butche/s creek is situated 2 mills, and empties into the 
Roanoke at Butcher's creek falls, about 10 ms. below Clarksville. Allcii' s 
creek is the largest and longest creek in the county, and discharges more 
water than any other, — it has 3 mills on it, and receives on its passage to the 
river Coleman'' s, and Mine creeks from the W. and Laton^s creek, Cox^s 
r,reek and the Long Branch on the E. Cole??ian^s and Co.r\s creek have 
each 1 mill on them. Allen'' s creek divides the lands of the county on the 
N. side of the river, into two nearly equal parts, it enters the river about 2 
ms above Alexander's ferry. On Miles'' creek is located 3 mills and empties 
into the river at Goode's ferry. Dockery creek empties into Miles' creek. 
Aveyi's creek and Parhani's creek empty into Flat creek, which has 1 
mill on it, and empties into the river 2| ms. below Goode's ferry. Great 
creek has I mill on it, and empties into the river 7^ ms. below St. Tamma- 
ny. Rohiyi's creek empties into the Roanoke, near Haskins' ferry. Most 
of the larger creeks which empty into Roanoke, head within 2 or 3 ms. ot 
the Meherrin. There are several other small creeks which empty into 



EASTERN VIRCaiNlA— MECKLENBURG. 231 

Roanoke, or into the large creeks before they get to the river. The creeks 
which empty into Meherrin river, are Finncwood, which rises in Charlotte, 
Otter crcfM, Blackstone. creek, Buckhom movvtaiii, and Stifh's creek. Tay- 
lor''s creek rises in this county, and empties into the Meherrin 1 mile below 
Gee's Bridge, in the county of Brunswick. The quantity of low grounds 
which lie on the creeks and branches, may be estimated at about 4,000 
acres, and is supposed to be Avorth an average price of $20 an acre. 

The most eastern mountain in the state is in this co\inty, and lies on the 
Meherrin river, at the mouih of Mountain creek, — it is called Watkins' 
mountain. This county is neither mountainous or level, but is beautifully 
undulating, Avith hills and vallies: it is more hilly near the Meherrin river 
than elsewhere. The ridge which divides the waters of the Roanoke, from 
those of the Meherrin, is 210 ft. higher than the bed of the Roanoke, and 
200 higher than the bed of the Meherrin. 

The soil of this county is generally fertile, although the ridges are thin 
and poor, yet it is generally a free soil. The lower, or eastern part of the 
county, is generally a light gray, or sandy soil, but free and productive; 
producing corn, oats cotton and tobacco of excellent quality, and as abundantly 
as any otner part of the county; it is in truth, the best cotton land in the 
county, but it is not so good for wheat as the other parts. There is a strip 
of land, running nearly through the centre of the county, from N. to S. 
about 10 ms. in width, commencing 1 mile below Allen's creek and con- 
tinuing for 3 miles above Butcher's creek: the land is stiff and red, — it con- 
sists of some of the best tracts of land in the county, though upon the ridges 
near Allen's and Butcher's creeks, some of it is sterile, but generally it is 
the best wheat land in the county, and produces a rich heavy crop of to- 
bacco; and in wet years excellent crops of corn and oats. The land in the 
upper part of the county above this red belt, is a light grey, gravelly soil, 
and produces abundantly corn, oats, wheat and tobacco, but very little cotton 
is made in this section. The land on the S. side of Roanoke, is generally a 
light grey, fertile soil; and near Buffalo creek is a very free, productive 
grain land; on, and near Grassy creek, both above and below, it is not so 
good, — on Nutbush, Cotton, and Smith's creek, it is generally very good 
and productive in grain, cotton and tobacco, The land on Bluestone, Cox's 
creek. Miles' creek, and Flat creek, is the best in the county, except the 
Roanoke plantations. The land on Allen's creek and Butcher's creek, 
although it contains a feAV of the best upland tracts in the county, is gene- 
rally inferior to other parts. 

The minerology of this county is but little known. There are some old 
pits, which are said to have been dug during, or before the revolution, by a 
mining company; and it is said that considerable quantities of silver were 
obtained from them; but nothing has been atrempted with them Avithin the 
last 50 or 60 years, — they are situated on Mine creek, near the centre of 
the county. There are indications of coal and iron to be found in several 
places, but no exertions have ever been made to discover the quantity, or 
A'alue of it. There is a vein of granite, running through the county from 
S. W. to N. E. and in many of the hills, much gray rock. On most of the 
districts there is much common Avhite flint rock; and in many places a spe- 
cies of rock Avhich is of a yellowish gray color, Avhich pulverizes very 
easily, and makes a fine grit for polishing metals. The timber is oak, pine 
and hickory, — the pine is principally confined to the lands about the centre 
of the county, between Cox's creek, and Bluestone; the oak is principally 



232 EASTERN VlRGliNIA— MECKLENBURG. 

rod oak, black jack and Spanish oak, Avith some white oak and post oak- 
Thc grape vine is very abundant. The under growth is chinquepin, dog- 
-wood, sassafras, shumack, &c. The best qualities of the high land, has for 
its growth, post oak, hickory and black jack, or red oak; tlie thinner soils 
are covered with white oak, Spanish oak and pine. The low grounds pro- 
duce considerable quantities of poplar, sycamore, birch, beech, ash, elm, 
&c. w^ith some paupau, red bud and buckeye. The products of agriculture 
in this county are principally corn, wheat, tobacco and oats, willi some cot- 
ton. — 'The quantity of tobacco, may be estimated at 3,500 hogsheads an- 
nually; the culture of cotton has been much reduced within the last 3 or 4 
years, and at this time does not much exceed 100 bales for exportation; 
wheat is produced in considerable quantities for exportation — and the cul- 
ture of it is increasing since the Roanoke has been rendered navigable, and 
would be still further increased, if the Meherrin was rendered navigable, 
which it is expected will shortly be undertaken. 

The amount of agricultural capital employed in the county may be stated 
as follows : — 

Value of the land at cash price, .... $2,150,00000 

Value of slaves, at do. do. - - - - 2,750,000 00 

Horses, cattle and plantation implements, - - 275,000 00 

$5,175,000 00 

It may be safely assumed, after deducting the clothing, feeding and tax 
of the slaves, — the feeding and tax of the horses and other stock, and the 
repairs of plantation tools, that the profit on the Avhole agricultural capital, 
counting the increase of the slaves, stock, &.c. is equal to about 15 per cent, 
per annum ; of which the Avhites, who are not actually employed in the field, 
must be supported, which leaves but little, — not over 3 or 4 per cent, of 
clear profits to the county. 

The tobacco, cotton and wheat, is nearly all sold in Petersburg, Rich- 
mond and Clarksville, but a considerable quantity of wheat, is manufactured 
into flour and some of it is sent down the Roanoke, to the lower parts of N. 
Carolina, and to Norfolk. 

Randolph Macon College is situated in this county, 1 mile W. of 
Boydton, and bids fair to be a very valuable and respectable literary insti- 
tution; it has not been 2 years since its first establishment, and it has at pre- 
sent 3 professors, besides the President of the college, — an excellent 
preparatory school attached to it; and at the present session 87 students 
in college, and 66 in the preparatory school; it is considered to be principal- 
ly under the direction and care of the Methodist church, but not entirely so, 
as several of the Trustees do not belong to that church. 

There is in Boydton a female Academy, Avhich deservedly ranks high as 
a boarding school for young ladies; and 2 other very respectable boarding 
schools for young ladies in the county; but the general plan of education 
in this county, is the old fashioned mode of building a little log house in 
each neighborhood, Avhcre there are as many scholars to be had as Avill em- 
ploy a teacher, at about $100 or 150, and the price which is generally paid 
fot tuition, is from $7 to 10 for each pupil, for the scholastic year of from 10 
to 1 1 months. The number of common schools in the county is 62, and the 
average number of pupils to each is 16, — making 990 pupils in the common 
schools; — there are 64 in the young ladies boarding schools, 60 in the R. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 233 

M. preparatory school, and 87 ia the college, — making the whole number 
of students in the county 1,207. 

The most numerous denomination of Christians in this county is the Me- 
thodists; they have 2(3 meeting houses. The next most numerous sect is 
the Baptists, which has 1.3 meeting houses: the next is the Presbyterians, 
which Jias 3 meeting houses. The last denomination is the Episcopalians, 
which has 2 churches in the county. There are in this county 23 mercan- 
tile stores, which sell on an average $210,000 worth of dry goods, annually 
only. This county purchases yearly about 360,000 weight of pork from the 
western drovers. The principal mechanical pursuits of the county, are car- 
penters, blacksmiths and wheelwrights: the first being the mo.st numerous : 
of the second, there are 47 shops in operation, and several of the latter. 
There are 4 tanyards, several saddle and harness makers, 3 carriage and 
gig manufactories, 3 cabinet makers, several boot and shoe factories, and 4 
tailor's shops, — there are 26 licensed taverns, 9 manufacturing flour mills, 
31 grist, and S saw mills, also 19 regular physicians and 9 practising attor- 
neys, — 2 United States mail stages pass through this county 3 times a week, 
1 from N. to S. and the other from E. to W. crossing each other at Boyd- 
ton. 

There arc on the Dm and Staunton rivers 2 ferries, Nelson's ferry which 
crosses the Staunton at Abbeville, and Skipwith's which crosses the Dan 
and Staunton at the lowest point of Union, before their final junction, 1 mile 
above Clarksville; and there are 7 which cross the Roanoke, Sommerville's 
which crosses the river at Clarksville, — Field's which crosses 6^ ms. be- 
low Clarksville, — Taylor's 4f ms. below Field's, and 3 ms. S. of Boydton, — 
Haskins' 7^ ms. below Taj^lor's, — Alexander's 9 ms. below Raskins', — 
Goode's 3 ms. below Alexander's, and St. Tammany or Blanton's ferry, 
Avhich crosses the river at St. Tammany's 4 ms. below. Population in 1820, 
19J86— in 1830, 20,477. — This county belongs to the 9th judicial circuit 
and 5th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $5,014 74— in 1834, on lots, 
$153 93— land, $2,354 69—6,421 slaves, $1,605 2.5—4,219 horses, 
$253 14—13 studs, $384 00—99 coaches, $243 50—35 carryalls, 
$35 15 — 118 gigs, $75 30. Total, $5,104. E.xpended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $625 62— in 1833, $764 02. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Abbeville, or Abbri/rUIc, P. O. ' 
situated on the left bank of the Staun- 
ton river, about 20 ms. above the in- 
flux of Dan riA-er, and 126 ms. S. W. 
of R., and 227 S. S. W. of W. 

BOYDTON, P. V. and Count]/ 
Scat, 1 18 ms. S. W. of Richmond, and 
221 ms. from Washington, a flou- 
rishing and healthy village, situated 
near the centre of the cotmty, 6 ms. 
N. of Roanoke river. Besides the 
usual county buildings, it contains 80 
dwelling houses, 4 mercantile stores. 



female school, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 
boot and shoe maker, 2 tailors, 2 cab- 
inet makers, 2 smith's shops, 1 watch 
maker and silver smhh, 1 coach and 
gig manufactory, 1 confectionary, and 
1 milliner and mantua maker. Ran- 
dolph Macon College is situated 1 
mile W. of the village; and a gram- 
mer school 2^ ms. S. of the College. 
The mail passes through this place 3 
times a week, from Petersburg to 
Williamsboro, N. C, and from Mil- 
ton, N. C. to Lawrenceville, Va. The 



2 hotels^ 2 houses of public worship, 'celebrated Buffalo Springs are situated 
(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) li30 ms. W. of Boydtou. Population 



30 



234 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 



400 persons ; of whom 4 are attor- 
neys and 3 practising physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 3^ 
Monday, in every month : — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Leigh holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \2th of May, and October. 

Christiansville, p. v. hi nis. 
S. W. of Richmond, and 212 ms. from 
W., situated in the upper end of the 
count}', about 12 ms. N. of the C. H. 
The mail stage from Petersburg to 
Williamsboro, N. C. passes this place 
3 times a week. It contains 6 dwel- 
ling houses, besides mechanic's shops, 
&c., 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, and 
a house of entertainment, I house of 
public worship, (Episcopalian) 1 in- 
corporated Academy — and 1 common 
school, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 2 smith 
shops, 1 tailor and 1 wheelwright 
shop, &c. Population 48 whites, and 
about 100 blacks. The soil in the 
neighborhood is a stiff red clay, and 
tolerably fertile, producing corn, 
wheat, cotton, tobacco, &c. The 
growth of timber is principally Span- 
ish oak. 

Clarksville, P. V. 138 ms. S. 
W. of Richm.ond, and 236 ms. from 
Washington City, situated on the S. 
side of Roanoke river, directly oppo- 
site the junction of Dan and Staunton 
rivers, which form the Roanoke, in the 
southern part of the county. It con- 
tains 14 private dwelling houses 2 
houses of public worship, ( I Baptist 
and 1 Presbyterian,) I Academy, 1 
well organized Sunday school, and 
9 mercantile stores. The mechanics 
are, 1 tanner, 2 saddlers, 2 black- 
smiths, 1 wheelwright, I coach ma- 
ker, 5 house carpenters, 1 cabinet ma- 
ker, I brick maker, 1 bricklayer and 
stone mason, 1 plough manufacturer, 
and 1 boot and shoe manufacturer. 
There are 2 places for stemming 
tobacco, 1 warehouse, and another 
being erected. From 1,700 to 2,000 
hogsheads of tobacco, arc inspected 



annually. About 15 boats constantly 
run from Clarksville to Wcldon N. 
C. Population 200 persons; of 
whom 2 are regular physician. 

Greensburg, P. V. or Greensboro 
lOS ms. S. S. W. of Richmond, and 
219 ms. from AVashingfon City, situ- 
ated in the N. part of the county, on 
the N. side of Cox's road, 8 ms. N. 
of Boydton, the County Scat, and dis- 
tant 18 ms. both from Clarksvile and 
Lunenburg C. H. Greensboro has 
been a place of condsiderable business, 
but at present is occupied as a private 
estalishment by a farmer with the ex- 
ception of a house of private entertain- 
ment for travellers and a post office. 

Hailstone, P. O. 124 ms. S. S. 
W. of R., and 230 ms. from W. 

LoMBARDY G^ovE, P. O. 81 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 237 from W. Lom- 
BARDY Grove is merely a country 
seat ; the P. O. is kept at a considera- 
ble mercantile house, and is situated 
immediately on the stage road leading 
from Belfield, Va. to Milton, N. C. 
in a fertile and populous neigborhood, 
237 ms. from W. and 115 from R. 

Mill Grove, P. O. 217 ms. S. S. 
W. of W. and 106 ms. S. W. of R. 

Palmer's Springs, P. O. in the 
Avestern part of the county, 103 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 225 fromW. 

Randolph Macon College, sit- 
uated about a mile from the village of 
Boydton, in Mecklenburg county was 
founded by the Virginia Conference 
of the Methodist Episcopal church, 
and is considered to be specially un- 
der the superintendance and patron- 
age of that denomination. It is how- 
ever, strictly a literary institution, 
there being no theological profes-sor- 
ship in it, nor is it contemplated to 
have such at any future lime. The 
avowed object of its founders, is to af- 
ford a liberal education at a very re- 
duced expense; and for the me ins to 
enable them to do so, they rely solely 
on private subscriptic ns an:l dona- 
tions, — the state haAing contributed 
nothing towards it. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— MIDDLESEX. 



235 



The buildingfs are of the best brick, 
and are covered with tin, on an im- 
proved plan. They are extensive and 
elegant, furni.shing according to cal- 
culation, accommodation for 200 stu- 
dents. " The studies taught are di- 
vided into 4 departments : 1st. That 
of Languages ; 2nd. That of Mathe- 
matics : 3rd. That of Natural Philos- 
ophy and Chemistry: and 4th. That 
of Ethics ;" and it is contemplated to 
establish a "department of agricul- 
ture," agreeably to a provision of the 
charter ; in view of which the Trus- 
tees have purchased 300 acres of ex- 
cellent land adjoining the College. 
There is also attached to the institu- 
tion a preparatory school, the princi- 
ple of which is a member of the Fa- 
culty of the College; — the school of 
course, being under the same imme- 
diate government as the College. 

This institution was chartered by 
the legislature of Virginia, in 1830, 
and was opened with a few students 
in 1S32. The members have been 
rapidly increasing however, and it 
now (April 1834) has 150, with q 



flattering prospect of a still greater 
number. Indeed its prosperity may 
be regarded as certain ; especially if 
the Trustees shall be able to endow it 
liberally, as it is proposed to do. The 
College edifice stands on a beautiful 
eminence, from the summit of which 
a commanding view of the surround- 
ing country may be seen ; while from 
its base, springs of pure and living 
water constantly gush. The situa- 
tion is as healthy as it is beautiful — 
a fact which is of course essential to 
its prosperity. 

Spanish Grove, P. O. 116 ms. 
S. W. of R., and 217 from W. 

Saint Tammany's P. O. 97 ms. 
from R., and 219 from W. 

South Hill, P. O. 232 ms. from 
W., and 110 from R. 

Tanner's Store, P. O. 93 ms. 
from R., and 21.5 ms. S. S. W. of W. 

White House, P. O. in the south 
western part of Mecklenburg county, 
137 ms. S. W. of R. and 243 trom W, 

Whittle's Mills, 105 ms. S. W, 
of R., and 227 from W. 



MIDDI^ESEX, 



Middlesex was created by act of Assembly in 1675, and formed out of 
a part of Lancaster county. It is bounded on the N. W. by Essex, — N. 
E. by the Rappahannock, Avhich separates it from the counties of Rich- 
mond and Lancaster, — S. E. by the Chesapeake bay and S. W. by the 
Dragon Run, and Piankitank river, which separates it from the counties 
of King 6l dueen, Gloucester, and Mathews. This county comprises a 
long and narrow point between its two bounding rivers. Its greatest 
length from N. W. to S. E. or from the Essex line to Stingray Point is 
about 39 miles, its mean breadth 5; and area 175 sq. ms. It extends in 
lat. from 37° 30' to 37° 48' W. and in long, from 0° 13' to 0° 40' E. of 
W. C Within ten miles of the Chesapeake bay the two rivers Pianki- 
tank and Rappahannock gradually approach each other, and emptying into 
the bay, form a point to which the name of Stingray has been given. 
Many navigable branches of the Rappahannock river make up into the 
county, aflbrding convenience to the farmer in sending his produce to Bal- 
timore and Norfolk, at wliich markets the produce of this county is most 
generally sold. The lands lying immediately on the Dragon, Piankitank, 
and Rappahannock are fertile. The Piankitank river is navigable about 
14 miles from the bav. Theucc to its source, a distance of about GO or 70 



236 



EASTERN VIRGINIA^NANSEMOND. 



miles, it is called the Dragon Run ; on eithe?' side of which, there is a space 
varying from a quarter of a inilc to half a mile in width, covered with 
valuable cypress, and other timber, and of inexhaustable fertility- This 
land is at present valueless to its proprietors from the frequent inundations, 
caused by the obstructions to the flow of water in the bed of the Run. 
The attention of the Legislature has been called to the removal of these 
obstructions, and thereby bringing into market an immense quantity of 
timber, and the produce of a large district of land which would thvis be 
made arable: — But the Avant of energy in the owners of the adjoining 
farms has hitherto prevented, and it is feared, will continixe to prevent the 
execution of any plan for effecting these desirable objects. The prevail- 
ing religion of this county is the Baptist. 

Population in 1820, 4,057 — in 1830, 4122. Middlesex belongs to the 
fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $799 06 
—inl 834.— On lots, $14 70— on land,$3G4 23— on 1 140 slaves, $285 00 
—451 horses, $26 06— 2 studs, $30 00—11 coaches, $29 25—7 carry- 
alls, $7 00—85 gi^s, $49 66 Total, $806 90. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $539 91— in 1833, $416 42. 

TOWNS, YILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



CiriTRCHviLLE, p. O. 76 ms. from 
R. and 135 from W. situated 6 ms. 
from the Essex line and 7 from Ur- 
banna. 

He.*.ly's, p. O. situated on the 
Piankatank river, 12 ms. below Ur- 
banna. 

URBANNA, P. V. and county 
scat, 83 ms. a little N. of E. from 
Richmond, and 142 a little E. of S. 
from W. C. — situated on the northern 
shore, and near the mouth of one of the 
branches of the Rappahannock called 
Urbanna creek. It is a sea port, lo- 
cated 18 ms. above the mouth of the 
river, — a small but healthy village. 
It contains besides the ordinary coun- 
ty buildings, 9 private dwelling 
houses, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 
1 cabinet maker, 1 tailor, and 1 car- 
riage maker. Population 175 per- 
sons, of whom 2 are resident attor- 
neys, 4 regular physicians, and 7 



officiating ministers of the Baptist 
church. Urbanna for many years 
seemed rapidly going to decay, but of 
late has much improved in popula- 
tion, the number of its stores, &c. — 
There is much travelling through 
this place, to and from the adjoining 
counties, by persons who take the 
steamboats here for Fredericksburg 
and Baltimore. The northern mail 
(via Tappahannock,)and the southern 
mail (via York,) are each transmit- 
ted twice a week through this coun- 
ty, stopping at Churchville, Urban- 
na, and Healy's post offices. 

Covnt'i/ Courts are held on the itk 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Semple holds his Superior 
Court of Law and Chancery on the 
Tuesday after the 3^/ Monday in April 
and October. 



NANSEMOND. 



Nansemond was created by act of Assembly in the year 1645, and 
formed from a part of the county of Upper Norfolk. It is bounded on the 
N. by Hampton Roads, — E. by Norfolk county, — S. by Pasquotank county 



EASTEUN VIRGINIA— NANSEMOND. 237 

of North Carolina, — W. by Blackwator river which separates it from 
Southampton, — and N. W, by the county of Isle of Wight. Its length 
diagonally from S. W. to N. E. is 40 miles, mean breadth 16, and area 
640 square miles: — and it extends in lat. from 36° 30' to 36'^ 54' N. and in 
long, from 0° 6' to 0° 41' E. of W. C. 

Rivers. — The Nanscmond is the largest river in the county, about 31 
miles in length from its mouth to Cohoon's mill, where it heads — it empties 
into Hampton Roads, and is 7 miles wide at its mouth. Its course is N. 
N. E. and runs nearly in the middle of the county as far as it goes. It 
is navigable to Suffolk for vessels of from 75 to 100 tons, and for small 
craft and lighters to Cohoon's mill. Nanscmond river affords the finest 
oysters, crabs, and fish. 

Western Branch Creek is a branch of Nanscmond river, about 10 miles 
in length; — it heads at Urquhart's mill, and empties into the Nanscmond 
about 7 miles below Sufiolk. Vessels of 75 to 100 tons burthen can be 
navigated as far as Milner's five miles above its mouth. Just below Mii- 
ner's, this creek forks, sending a branch to Scott's mill: it is navigable for 
vessels from 35 to 40 tons as far as Scott's mill, which is distant about 5 
miles from its mouth. The course of the Western Branch is nearly E. 

Chuckatuck Creek rises at Chuckatuck mill — is about 10 miles long, and 
empties into James river. It is navigable for vessels of 35 to 40 tons 
for 6 miles. It courses E. 

Black Water river is the dividing line between Nanscmond and South- 
ampton for the distance of about 12 miles: course S. E. — any vessel 
which can come in at Ocracokc Inlet, can be navigated to South Quay. 

Somcrton Creek is formed by the junction of Knuckle and Bear Swamps, 
in the county of Nanscmond, it then runs about 8 miles in this county: 
course S. W. — and empties into Chowan river, about 2 miles from the 
Nausemond line. 

Lake DrummonA is supposed to be from 15 to 18 miles in circumfer- 
ence : it differs but little in its diameter from N. to S. or E. to W. The 
Avater has perhaps gained more celebrity than it merits: it is slighty 
diuretic : in some seasons of the year it will afi'ect the bowells also a little, 
like any other water if confined, and impregnated Avilh so much vegetable 
matter. It contains a quantity and variety of fish. The brown perch and 
chub are large and very fine: there are other varieties of perch, not so 
highly prized; — also pike, gars, catfish, eels, &c. Few wild fowl are 
found on this beautiful lake, which is somewhat remarkable, and the few 
which frequent it are principally ducks. Nearly the whole of the lake is 
within this county ; — perhaps a mile of the eastern extremity may be in 
Norfolk county : the depth of water is from 12 to 14 feet a few hundred 
yards from the margin. The bottom of the lake is hard and firm. 

The Dismal Swamp Land Companij'' s Canal, from the basin (which is 
on the bank of Cedar Creek,* a branch of the Nanscmond,) to the lake is 
10 miles; — running for 6 miles nearly S. E. and then S. — width from 10 
to 12 feet; — depth from 3 to 4 feet. The water of the canal flows into the 
lake: it is connected with the Dismal Swamp Canal Company through 
the waters of the lake. From tide water to the lake the distance is 10 
miles. 

The Dismal Swamp Land Company's land (with the exception of a small 



♦ Craney Creek is the ancient name. 



238 EASTERN VIRGINIA— NANSEMOND. 

part which is in the county of Norfolk,) is situated in the county of Nan- 
semond — quantity of acres forty thousand. The growth consists of juni- 
per, cypress, gum, ash, maple, pine. The quantity of shingles usually 
exported by the Company is from 2| to 3 millions per annum, amounting 
to $40 or $50,000 — governed by fluctuation in prices. 

Agriculture is at a low ebb, although certainly improving within a few 
years. More attention has been paid to making and using manure from 
farm pens. The benefit of marl has been fully tested, yet although abun- 
dant on the river and creek banks, is still used in a limited May. The 
principal crops are corn, oats, peas, some wheat and cotion. The staple is 
Indian corn. 

Tar, turpentine and staves are not so abundant as formerly; — they still 
form the principal and leading articles of trade in the county. 

Population in 1810, 10,324—1820, 10,494— in 1830, 11,784. Nanse- 
mond belongs to the first judicial circuit and first district. Taxes paid in 
1833, $2067 73— in 1834 on lot.s, $175 20— on land, 920 12—2320 
slaves, $580 00—1411 horses, $84 GG— G studs, $GG 00—45 coaches, 
$97 07—1 stage, $1 00—4 carryalls, $4 00—231 gigs, $136 15. Total, 
$20G4 18. Expended in educating poor children m 1832, $238 51— in 
1833, $438 97. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Chuckatuck, p. v. 1 10 ms. from [some and valuable farms. The popu- 
R. and 214 from W. Chuckatuck jlation is about 300 persons: of whom 
can scarcely be termed a village, butjl is a physician. The neighborhood 
is more properly a thickly populated! possesses great advantages, having a 
neighborhood, embracing about one level and fertile soil, fish and oysters 
square mile; the central part of whichiof the finest kind in abundance, and 
is at the head Avaters of a creek bear-'navigation at the doors of its inhabi- 
ing the same name, and which makes tants. 

into James river about 8 ms. from this! Somf.rton, P. V. near the southern 
place. It is situated on the stage road jside of the county, and within 1 mile 
leading from Smithfield, Isle of Wight of the North Carolina line; 120 ms. 
county, to Suffolk, the county seat, lOjS. E. of Richmond and 242 from W. 
miles distant from both places, andlC. This little village has G dwelling 
about 20 from Norfolk by the nearest houses, with 1 mercantile store, 1 
land route. It contains 20 dwellinglhouse of public worship, (Methodist,) 
houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, |1 common school, 1 tavern, 1 cabinet 
and 1 house of public worship, (Me-lmaker, 1 tailor, 1 blacksmith, and 1 
thodist.) There are about 125 inhab-imilliner and mautua maker. Somer- 
itants, including the operatives em-|ton is situated on the stage road lead- 
ployed in the Smithfeld and Chucka-'ing from Norfolk, Va. to Fayetteville, 
tuck Cotton Manufactory, erected byiN. C, 45 ms. from the former; also 
a company. This establishment runsion a road making indirectly from 
1000 spindles propelled by waterJMurfrecsboro', N. C. to Smithfield, 
power. It is in successful operation,! Va. Population 40 whites and 60 
and largely contributes to the businessj blacks. The country around is fer- 
appearancc and support of this place.jtile and thickly settled, having with- 
Within this square mile is an old in the circumference of a few miles 
venerable Episcopalian brick church, 40 farm houses. 
around which there are some hand ( SUFFOLK, P. V. :\\u\ u^at of jus- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NELSON. 



239 



tice, situated on the right bank of South Q-uay is situated on Black 



Nansemond river, 28 ms. N. W. by 
W. of Norfolk— 102 ms. S. E. byE. 
of Richmond, and 224 a little E. of 
S. from W.; in lat. 3G° 43' N. and 
long. 0° 27° E. of W. C. Suffolk 
is a flourishing and wealthy little vil- 
lage, containing, besides the usual 
county buildings, about 300 houses, 
20 general stores, 4 houses of public 
worship, ( I Episcopalian, 1 Baptist, 
and 2 Methodist,) I Dorcas society, 2 
well organized temperance societies, 
and 5 common schools. The me- 
chanics are, I tanner, 2 saddlers, 3 
boot and shoe man>ifarturers,3tailors, 
3 cabinet makers, 2 house carpenters, 
3 blacksmiths, 2 wheelwrights, &c. 



Water river, which is a branch of the 
Chowan river of N. Carolina, and 
makes the dividing line between Nan- 
semond and Southampton counties. 
It contains about half a dozen houses, 
and its principal pursuits are agricul- 
ture. There is a post office and also 
a surveyor's office for the collection 
of the revenue. The latter having 
been established in consequence of 
the importance attached to the place 
during the Revolutionary and late 
war as a Q,uay, or depot for goods — 
its inland advantages recommending 
it as such. There are only two fami- 
lies residing here, consisting of 40 
or 50 persons; 2 of whom are attor- 



Population 1200 persons, of whom2!neys. In the immediate vicinity are 

several physicians, both scientific 
and Thompsonians, meeting houses, 
schools, mercantile stores, and mills; 
and the neighborhood is somewhat 
densely settled. Should the contem- 
plated rail road between Portsmouth 
and the Roanoke be completed, of 
which there is every probability, the 
value of this place Avill doubtless be 
greatly enhanced, as it will pass im- 
mediately by South Quay. This, 
tojrether with the Dismal Swamp 



are attorneys, and 2 regular physi- 
cians. The Portsmouth and Roan- 
oke rail road passes through the 
centre of this town — distance from 
Portsmouth 17 miles — from Ports- 
mouth to the termination at the Roan- 
oke 77 miles. 

Count!/ Courts are held on the 2d 
Moitdai/ in every month. Quarterly 
in March, Juyne, August, and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Baker holds his Superior 



Court of Law and Chancery on the canal, which connects the Carolina 
\~jth May and 30</t September. and Virginia waters, already having 

South Quay, P. O. 95 ms. S. S.[a very sensible influence on this part 
E. of Richmond and 217 from W. C.|of the country. 



NELSON. 

Nelson' was created by act of Assembly in 1807, and formed out of a 
part of Amherst county. It is situated immediately between the Blue 
Rid<,e and James river. Bounded by Albemarle N. E. and E. — by James 
river separating it from Buchingham S. E. — and Amherst S., and S. W. — 
by the Blue Ridge, separating it from Rockbridge W. — and Augusta S. 
W. The longest line is diagonal from the extreme southern to the ex- 
treme northern angle — about 40 ms. — greatest width 28 — and area 560 sq. 
ms. — extending in lat. from 37° 32' to 38° 02' N. and in long, from 1° 
50' to 2° 7' W. of W. C. Its declivity is S. of S. E. — and it is drained 
by' the diflcront branches of Rock Fish and T\'e rivers. 

This county is very broken and mountainous, particularly as it approaches 
the Blue Ridge. Between the ridjes of mountains arc many beautiful 



240 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NELSON. 



vallics, very fertile and productive; upon the James are extensive low 
grounds, from a quarter to half a mile in width, very rich and fertile: — in 
the northwestern part of the county, on the head waters of the Hockfish 
river, and on the southwestern, on the waters of the Tye river, are large 
tracts of low grounds, and nearly level bodies of fine productive lands. 
'The staple products of the country are, wheat, Indian corn, tobacco, rye, 
oats and potatoes — to the production of which the soil is well adapted. 
Tobacco was at one time the principal production for market, but the cul- 
tivation of that article has of late years greatly diminished, and has been 
succeeded bv the less exhausting cultivation of wheat and rye. 

This county is watered in the S. W. by Tye river, and in the N. E. by 
Rockfish river, both have their sources in the Blue Ridge, and after nm- 
ning entirely through the county empty into tbe James. They are by the 
aid of artificial improvement, capable of batteaux navigation to within 10 
or 12 miles of the Blue Ridge. The mountains in this county afford evi- 
dent indications of being filled with iron and copper ore, and contain seve- 
ral chalybeate springs, one of which m the S. E. is much frequented, and 
has been found very beneficial in all cases of debility. The mountains of 
this county generally contain a very rich soil, capable of producing fine 
crops of tobacco and corn, and partially adapted to the production of pota- 
toes and hemp. — There is no county in the State which affords, by the ex- 
haustion of the soil, more lamentable proofs of an injudicious system of 
husbandry; but there is now a spirit of improvement among the planters 
and farmers; they are beginning to use clover and gypsum freely, the 
beneficial influence of which is very manifest, — and in a few years there 
is but little doubt that this county will be among the most fertile, produc- 
tive and wealthy counties in the State. 

Besides the rivers before referred to, there are numerous creeks pene- 
trating this county, in every direction, affording many sites for mills and 
other machinery. There are three manufacturing mills. — The forest of 
the county consists of oak, pine, chesnut, chesnut oak, hickory and pop- 
lar. — In the spring, summer and autumn, the scenery exhibhed by the 
mountains and vallies, is truly beautiful and picturesque, but in the winter 
gloomy and desolate. The health of the county is equal to that of any 
county in the State. 

Population in 1820, 10,137 — in 1830, 11,251. Nelson belongs to the 
twelfth judicial circuit and sixth district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2723 88 
—in 1834, on lots, $G3 36- on laud, $1586 57—2983 slaves, $745 75— 
2375 horses, $142 50—16 studs, $184 50—16 coaches, $41 30—15 car- 
ryalls, $16 15—11 gigs, $6 95. Total, $2787 08. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in^l832, $169 06— in 1833, $192 45. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Dawson'.s, p. O 107 ms. N. W. 
of R. and 149 S. W. of W. 

Fabkr's Mill.s, p. O. in the W. 
part of the county, 170 ms. S. W. of 
W. C. and 103 'W. of R. It con- 
tains 1 mercantile store, 1 distillery, 
1 blacksmith shop, 1 tailor, 1 boot 
and shoe factory, 1 wheelwright, 1| 



manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw mill, 
1 woollen manufactory, and 10 dwel- 
ling houses; in the vicinity there is a 
Baptist house of public worship. 
Population 50. 

GhiEENKiELD, P. O. 152 ms. from 
W. and 110 from R. 

LOVINGSTON, P. V. and scat 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NELSON. 



241 



e/ justice, 118 ms. a little N. of W. 
from R. and 160 S. W. of W. C, in 
lat. 37^ 44' and long. 1° 52' W. of 
W. C. — situated on a branch of Tye 
river, near the centre of the county, 
on the stage road leading from Char- 
lottesville to Lynchburg, nearly equi- 
distant between the two places, 40 
ins. nearly S. from Staunton, and 36 
ms. nearly N. from Buckingham C.H. 

"It is a thriving little village, beau- 
tifully situated in a cove, at the head 
of which is Loving's Gap to the N. 
and commanding a view of a fine 
country to the S. The surrounding 
hills are truly romantic. The Sugar 
Loaf mountain is situated about 4 ms. 
from town, the top of which is often 
visited by parties to enjoy the rich 
scenery of an extended eastern and 
southern view, and the prospect of an 
unbroken chain of the Blue Ridge 
mountain of more than 60 ms. in ex- 
tent. The view from Hanblet's moun- 
tains which is near town, is among 
the most interesting in the State. 
The Blue Ridge, the Sugar Loaf, the 
Tobacco Row, and many other moun- 
tains arc in full view, whilst the 
southern prospect unfolds to the vis- 
ion plantation beyond plantation, 
woods beyond woods, hill beyond hill 
in rich succession, until the scene 
closes, where earth and sky meet, in 
the far distant horizon." 

"Lovings'on contains 124 houses, 
among which are the court house, 
clerk's office, and jail, enclosed by a 
brick wall, which is entered through 
two arched gates. There are 6 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2 
schools, 2 taverns, 1 tanyard, 2 sad- 
dlers, I blacksmith, 2 cabinet makers, 
I milliner and mantua maker, 1 
wheelwright, 1 house joiner, and 1 
chair maker. The different chris- 



County Courts are held on the Atk 
Monday in every month ; Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Thompson holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the 29^A of April and 
Septembtr. 

Mount Horeb, P. O. Ill ms. W. 
of R. and 160 from W. 

Murrell's Shop, P. O. 110 ms. 
W. of R. and 177 from W. 

New Market, or Tye River 
Warehouse, P. O. in the southern 
partof the county, at the'influx of Tye 
river into the James, 108 ms. W. of 
R. and 165 from W. It contains a 
tobacco inspection, at which from 3 
to 500 hosgheads are annually in- 
spected, 1 mercantile store, 1 tavern, 
a grist and saw mill, a blacksmith 
shop, and 12 or 14 dwelling houses. 
Population 65 persons, of whom 2 
are physicians. 

Tye River Mills, P. O. in the 
western part of the county, 131 ms. 
N, W. of R. and 173 from W.— situ- 
ated on the Blue Ridg*, near Tye 
river, and Tye river turnpike, 10 
miles N. W. of Lovingston, in a 
populous neighborhood. The farm- 
ers of the surrounding country aro 
wealthy and the land fertile, produc- 
ing well all the staples of the coun- 
try. There are several mills and 
mercantile stores in the neighbor- 
hood. 

Variety Mills, P. O. in the 
eastern part of the county, 112 ms, 
N. W. of R. and 167 from W. It 
contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 manu- 
facturing mill, 1 gristmill, 1 mercan- 
tile store, 1 tanyard, and I cooper 
shop. Population 25. 

Warminster, P. O. in the eastern 
part of the county, 160 ms. S. W. of 



tian denominations are Methodist,! W. and 100 W. of R.— situated on 
Baptist, and Presbyterian. The court 'the left bank of James river, i mile 
house is used as a place for public from its margin, where it receives the 
worship. Population 250 persons; waters of Swan creek, 50 ms. below 
of whom there are 3 attorneys, and 2j Lynchburg. Though called a vil- 
practising physicians." lage, it consists at present of but 3 

31 



242 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NEW KENT. 



dwelling houses, and 2 store houses, 
and a masonic hall nearly in ruins, 
which is sometimes used as a place of 
public worship. A classical school 
has be^n annually kept here, or in 
the immediate Aacinity. White popu- 
lation 15, colored 10. One physician 
has generally resided here. War- 
minster was established by enactment 
in the year 1788, and for a number of 
years carried on a profitable com- 
merce with the surrounding country 
to the extent of 40 or 50 miles. The 
foundations of several of the largest 
estates in Virginia were laid here; 
but wiih the progress of population 
in other quarters of the State — Avith 
the division of the old county of Am- 
herst, and the subsequent establish- 
ment of the towns of New Glasgow 
and Amherl C. H., Lovingston and 
New Market, Bent Creek, and other 
places, trade has been carried to every 
man's door, so that the country which 
was once tributary to Warminster, 
now carries its support to other places 
with greater natural advantages. — 
This place, in consequence, has for 
some years past been retrograding in 
the number of its inhabitants and 
houses ; many of the lots have been 
purchased by the proprietor of the 
estate, in the midst of which it is situ- 
ated, and have been thrown into the 
adjacent fields. — An inspection of to- 



bacco Avas authorised by the same 
laAV Avhich established the tOAvn, and 
was continued for some years Avith 
considerable success, and abandoned, 
like most of the smaller inspections 
on James river. The statute book 
likoAvise presents several enactments 
authorising lotteries for raising money 
to build an academy, a church, and 
for opening roads to this place: but 
it is not known that any of those 
were ever carried into cfl^ect. The 
A'alley of James river though fertile 
here, is narrow, and the interior coun- 
try on either side is not productive. 
The roads to it from CA'ery quarter 
are bad, and it is not probable that even 
the contemplated central improve- 
ment Avould increase the village be- 
yond its present size. It may be re- 
marked hoAvever that its situation is 
picturesque in a high degree. From 
a cliff opposite, on the right bank of 
the riA^er, is an extensive and inter- 
esting view, taking in the fertile A'al- 
ley, Avinding for several miles aboA-e 
and beloAA% Avith the seats on the ad- 
jacent heights ; the small A'illage 
half concealed by trees in the midst 
of the cultivated plain beloAV, the near 
prospect embraced by ranges of 
mountains beyond, and the Blue 
Ridge, predominant over the Avhole, 
in the distant horizon. 



NEW KENT. 



Neav Kent Avas created by an act of the House of Burgesses in 1654, 
and formed from a part of York county. It is bounded N. by the Pamun- 
key, Avhich separates it from King William — N. E. by the York, separat- 
ing it from King and Queen, — E. by James City, — S. by the Chickahomi- 
ny, Avhich separates it from Charles City and Henrico, — and W. by Hano- 
ver. Its length diagonally from east to Avest, is 33 miles, its mean breadth 
7, and its area 231 sq. ms. — It extends m lat. from 37° 19' to 37° 36' N. 
and in long, from 0° 1 1' E. to 0° 24' W. of W. C— New Kent is compos- 
ed of two narrow inclined planes; leaning tOAA^ards its bounding rivers, its 
surface is hilly. Population in 1820, 6,630 — in 1830, 6,458. New Kent 
belongs to the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Tax paid in 
1832-3, $1271 91— in 1833-4, on lands, $618 84—1753 slaves, $438 25 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 



243 



—834 horses, $50 04—2 studs, $22 00—29 coaches, $68 25— 12 carryalls 
$12 50—50 gigs, $48 00— Total, $1257 88. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $102 22— in 1833, $161 64. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



NEW KENT C. H. P. V. near 
the centre of the county, 133 miles 
S. W. of W. and 30 E. of R. in lat. 
37° 26', and long. 0° 06' W. of W. 
C. — situated on the south side of the 
main stage road leading from Rich- 
mond to Williamsburg, and 3 miles 
S. of Pamunkey river, the nearest 
point of which from the C. H. is the 
old town of Cumberland, situated im- 
mediately on the south side of the ri- 
ver. Besides the usual county build- 
ings, this village contains 10 dwelling 
houses, 6 mercantile stores, and 4 ta- 
verns — no house of public worship, 
the C. H. being made use of for that 
purpose. — The stage from Richmond 
to Williamsburg arrives here on Mon- 
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and 



leaves here for Richmond, on Tues- 
days, Thursdays, & Saturdays, There 
ire 2 other mails a week — 1 from 
Hanover C. H. and another from 
King William C. H., the former on 
Tuesdays, the latter on Wednesdays. 
New Kent C. H. may be considered 
a healthy place, there being no ponds 
or other stagnant waters within four 
miles of the village. Population 41 
persons ; of whom one is a physician. 

Count]/ Courts are held on the 2d 
Tfmrsday in every month ; — Quar- 
terly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Semple holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the liid Monday in May and 
November. 



NORFOLK. 

Norfolk was created by act of the Legislature in 1691, and formed out 
of a part of lower Norfolk. It is bounded on the N. by Hampton Roads 
and the Chesapeake, — E. by Princess Anne, — S. by Currituck and Cam- 
den counties of North Carolina, — and W. by Nansemond. Its length from 
south to north is 32 miles, its mean width 17, and aiea 544 sq. miles. — ex- 
tending in lat. from 36° 30' to 36° 59' N. and in long, from 0° 33' to 1° 2' 
E. of W. C. 

The northern part of this county is drained through Elizabeth river into 
the Chesapeake, and the southern through the Dismal Swamp, and Lake 
Drummond, into the Pasquotank, and thence into Albemarle Sound, North 
Carolina. (See an account of the Dismal Swamp in the General Descrip- 
tion of Virginia, page 41, the more particular description there promised 
for this county, not having come to hand.) 

The Dismal Swamp Canal is 22 miles long, and has been a work of 
such labor and difficulty, as cannot be appreciated by those who have not 
seen it in progress. The public reports show that nearly $800,000 have 
been expended on the work. The tolls of the year ending November 30th 
1832, were $33,290, and those of 1829 were only $13,040, showing an in- 
crease of $20,250. Lake Drummond, near the centre of the Dismal 
Swamp, and three miles from the Canal, is in times of great drought the 
only feeder, it has a surface of about six square miles, and varies from 10 
to 20 feet deep. Its surface when full is 21 2 feet above tide water, and 6 



244 EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 

itbove the level of the water in the upper level of the canal, which has five 
locks, two of the north end rising 13 feet. The N. W. lock, 10 miles S. 
has 3^ feet rise to the summit level ; Culpeper lock, 6 miles distant, 3^ feet 
fall; and the south descending lock has 13 feet fall. This canal opens a 
communication between the port of Norfolk, and Portsmouth, and the wa- 
ters of Albemarle and Pamlico sounds. The north end empties into Deep 
creek, a branch of Elizabeth river, 4 miles in length ; and the south into 
Toice's creek, a branch of Pasquotank river. The Dismal Swamp is 20 
miles through, in the direction of the canal. 

As the Portsmouth and Roanoke Rail Road, which is now under con- 
tract, is likely to exercise a very important influence upon the destinies of 
the whole saction of country through which it will pass, we give a descrip- 
tion of its location and plan of construction, from the report of its engineer 
Walter Gwynn, Esq. 

" The line which I have selected as the basis of my estimate, commences 
at the intersection of the western boundary of Portsmouth and the centre 
line of High street, and proceeds over an extremely level and imbroken 
surface to an eligible site for crossing by a bridge, a branch of the Nanse- 
mond river, a few hundred yards north of the termination of the Dismal 
Swamp Land Company's Canal. Thence continuing the line to Suffolk 
several spring branches are crossed, requiring the construction of small 
stone drains and some heav}'' cuttings and fillings. After leaving Suffolk 
the character of the country changes and becomes somewhat bold — and in 
order to diminish the quantity of excavation and embankment several undu- 
lations in the plane of the Rail Road are unavoidably made — the inclina- 
tions are, however, gentle, and the line reaches Blackwater without encoun- 
tering any other difficulties than an increased expenditure on this portion of 
it. From Blackwater a level is maintained for some distance, the line passes 
along the borders of the Swamps which make up to the Highlands, and 
crossing the Nottoway, on the lands of Mr. Rochelle about seven miles be- 
low Jerusalem, it ascends at the rate of 20 feet per mile, passing near Mr. 
Gurley's to the Cypress Bridge Road. Thence, leaving Vick's Chapel a 
little to the south and making a slight undulation to avoid some filling, the 
line arrives at Capt. Barns' Quarter, on the summit of the ridge dividing the 
waters of the Nottoway from those of the Meherrin. From Captain Barns' 
a descent is effected on a grade of 20 feet per mile to Buckhorn Run. 
Thence the line is continued, on a level, across the Meherrin, about a mile 
above Branch's Bridge. It then ascends, varying from an inclination of 
20 to 12 feet per mile, until the summit of the Rail Road is attained, giving 
an elevation, above the level of tide water, of 144 leet. 

" Descending from the summit, the Line crosses the Petersburg Rail 
Road, (on a level with that Road,) about two hundred yards south of Capt. 
Garey's. It afterwards crosses the head of Raccoon Swamp, and termi- 
nates on the North bank of the Roanoke River, opposite Weldon. Its direc- 
tion is S. 70 W., and its length 77 miles, being only half a mile longer 
than the distance on a direct line between Portsmouth and Weldon. 

" The greatest inclination does not exceed 20 feet to the mile, and through- 
out the whole extent of the Road there are but few deviations from a straight 
line, and these are effected on the arcs of circles whose radii are in no instance 
less than 5730 feet, and are most generally 1 1,4G0 feet in length. 

"Gentle inclinations and easy curvatures (when it is necessary to vary 
from a straight line) are poiatf? of essential importance in the location of 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 245 

Rail Roads — these desirable objects as \vell as a line extremely favorable to 
the advantageous employment of Locomotive Engines are here attained. 
Indeed, considering the straightncss and the moderate ascents and descents, 
the performance of an Engine [of given power) will be greater on this, 
than on any other Rail Road now constructed in the United States. We 
are therefore enabled to use light Engines, thereby diminishing very consi- 
derably the great and leading items in the expense of transportation on 
Rail Roads, viz: vear and tear and repairs. 

"The Engine which it is proposed to use will not exceed five tons weight, 
and its performance on this Road will be equal to that of a six ton Engine, 
on a Road with 30 feet grades. From this general view it will be seen, 
that the face of the country is eminently suitable to the proposed Avork. 
The intervening Swamps and the alluvial bottom lands of the Nottoway, 
Blackwater and Meherrin, offer no serious obstacles. — The bottom is every 
where composed of solid materials, affording a firm foundation for any em- 
bankment or other structure it may be necessary to place on it. 

"Construction of the Road. — It will not be necessary on the present oc- 
casion to discuss the relative merits of the various modes of construction — 
and the variety of materials which have been used in the formation of Rail- 
Ways. Suffice it to say, that the almost universal substitution of wood for 
stone, and the iron-edge- rail, establishes its preference in the first instance 
even where stone is abundant and timber scarce. Among the many reasons 
for this preference of wood, are — its elasticity, its sufficient stability, and its 
diminution of the ivear and tear of engines and cars. It follows, then as a 
necessary consequence, that I recommend for your Rail Road the use of 
timber, which is found in abundance, of excellent quality on almost every 
part of the line. 

"The superstructure, then, which I propose to adopt, will be heart pine 
rails, nine by five inches, plated with iron bars two inches wide, and half 
an inch thick, re.sting on white or post oak sills, ten by twelve inches, and 
eight feet long, placed across the road, five feet apart from centre to centre. 
The rails will be placed parallel to each other four feet eight and a half 
inches apart, let into the sills and properly secured by white oak wedges. 
The sills will be notched for the reception of the rails and wedges and hol- 
lowed out in the middle, so as to admit of the construction of a path over 
them, which will add considerable stiffness to the road, at a very moderate 
expense — and adapt it to the use of either horse or locomotive power, or both. 

" Width of Road Bed. — I have estimated for a single rail-way, which 
for the present will afford sufficient accommodation to the trade and travel. 
The ditches, however, will be cut and the waste earth disposed with a view 
to a double track, w^henever it may be deemed necessary. The graduated 
surface of the road-bed in excavations, wall vary from 18 to 16 feet in width, 
the slopes being 4.5°. The graded surface on embankments Avill present 
a uniform width of 12^ feet, with side slopes of 33^° or 1^ base to 1 per- 
pendicular. 

"Between SufTolk and Spikes' Run we shall pass several small streams 
by means of stone drains. The stone for this purpose can be readily ob- 
tained at Port Depositcs, and the work done now, on as reasonable terms 
as at any other period. Farther on, wooden structures will be thrown over 
the water courses, with a span affording sufficient room for the erection 
hereafter of stone or brick culverts. The bridges acro.ss the Blackwater, 
Nottoway and Meherrin Rivers will be supported by abutments and piers 



246 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 



of masonrj', the stone for which can be transported by water from Norfolk 
to their respective sites, and will not at most exceed $5 per perch (of 25 
cubic feet) delivered. On approaching the Roanoke, rock is found tolera- 
bly convenient to the line, and will probably be used in crossing the Oco- 
neechee, Troublefield, and Raccoon Swamp." 

Population in 1820, 15,465, including that of the borough of Norfolk — 
exclusive of the borough, 6,987 — in 1830, 24,814. Norfolk belongs to the 
first judicial circuit, and first district. Tax paid in 1832-3, (no report) — 
in 1833-4, on lots, $1403 63— on land, $1220 23—3280 slaves, $770 00 
— 1572 horses, $94 32—6 studs, $52 00—33 coaches, $73 00—27 carry- 
alls, $28 00 — 133 giffs, $87 15 — Total, $3728 33. Expended in educat- 
ing poor children in 1832, $482 36— in 1833, $573 40. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Deep Creek, P. V. 123 ms. from lis composed of these two substances, 



R. and 226 from W. Deep creek, is 
a branch of Elizabeth river. The 
village is situated near the creek, at 
the northern extremity of the Dismal 
Swamp canal. It stands on each side 
of the canal, near its northern outfall 



and is of various depths, sometimes of 
20 feet; — in this {sponge as it is call- 
ed here) are imbedded innumerable 
old trees of juniper, from which much 
of the lumber shipped from Deep 
Creek is made. It is no uncommon 



lock, and has indeed been created by thing to find under the roots of a tree 
the canal. It is now a flourishing that has been cut for the purpose of 
depot, being located nearly equidistant making shingles, another and larger 
between the towns of Norfolk and old fallen tree, entirely covered with 
Portsmouth. It contains 25 dwelling .s';;^?*^-^ and trees of new growth, 
houses, 6 general stores, 2 taverns, 1 j which is in a perfectly sound state, 
house of public worship, free for all and nearly or quite as good for shin- 
denominations, 1 grist mill, 1 saw igles, as the green timber. These 
mill, 2 boot and shoe factories, and 2 shingles, and the other lumber, are 



tailors. Its commercial business is 
nearly confined to a trade in large 
juniper or white cedar shingles, rails, 
pales, and timber for coopers. It 
gives constant employment to ten or 
twelve respectable schooners, which 
load in the creek, a mile below the 
locks, and trade to Philadelphia, New 
York, and other places. These shin- 
gles and other juniper lumber, are the 
produce of the Dismal Swamp, though 
much of the Swamp has no trees of 
large growth, but is covered with an 
almost impenetrable thicket of reeds, 
grass, and bushes; some parts of it, 
however, are timbered with gum, 
beach, pine, and oak ; and other parts 
with juniper and cypress: these lat- 
ter growing where the water and mud 
or decayed vegetable matter is deep- 
est. The whole surface of the Swamp 



brought out of the Swamp, either 
through ditches cut for the purpose, 
in narrow, long lighters, or are carted 
out by mules, on roads made of poles 
laid across the road, so as to touch 
each other, forming a bridge or cause- 
way. There are very many miles of 
such road. The laborers carry the 
shingles, &c. to these roads from the 
trees, on their heads or shoulders. — 
The border of Deep creek is a salt 
marsh. — In opening a communication 
from the north outfall lock, through 
this marsh to the creek, a very large 
and solid pine stump Avas found, evi- 
dently in the place where it grew. It 
is in the way of the navigation, and 
at very low tides, is uncovered. This 
is the more surprising, as pines do 
not (in other in.stances) grow in salt 
marshes, but delight in a dry, sandy 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORFOLK. 



247 



soil. Much labor has been spent, to 
little purpose, in attempting to re- 
move it. Pine stamps are also found 
in Albemarle sound, evidently in the 
same situation in which they grew, 
though now a number of feet under 
water, and below the surface of the 
Ocean. 

Another geological trait in this part 
of the state is worthy of notice. Wells 
dug in the sand to the depth of six, 
eight, or ten feet, afford good water; 
but if carried a few feet lower, the 
stratum of sand is passed, and one of 
ofTensive mud is encountered, which 
destroys the well. 

There is a traditionary anecdote 
connected with Deep creek, which 
deserves to be noticed. During the 
war of the Revolution, a French ves- 
sel was pursued into this creek by an 
English vessel; and some remains of 
the Frenchman still continue, to ob- 
struct navigation, and confirm the sto- 
ry; but the tradition adds further, that 
before the French crew abandoned 
and sunk their ship, they charged a 
gun with specie, and threw it over- 
board, to prevent its falling into the 
hands of the English, and much time 
has been spent in a vain search for 
that gun. 

Great Bridge, P. O. situated on 
the southern road 12 miles S. S. E. of 
Norfolk, 126 S, E. by E. of R. and 
229 from W. 

NORFOLK BOROUGH, Sea 
Port, and P. O. 114 ms. S. E. by E. 
of Richmond, and 217 S. S. E. of 
Washington — in lat. 36^ 52', and 
long. 0^ 44' E. of W. C— situated 8 
miles above Hampton Roads, on the 
north bank of Elizabeth river, near 
the junction of its southern and eas- 
tern branches. It covers about 600 
acres of ground. Norfolk harbor 
admits vessels of 18 feet draught, and 
renders the Borough the mo.st com- 
mercial depot of Virginia. Its har- 
bor is perhaps surpassed by none in 
the world, being spacious, safe from all 
winds, and of easy access to the ocean, 



for vessels at all seasons of the year. 
It is completely fortified from foreign 
enemies by the fortress on Craney 
Island, and by the works erected at 
the outlet of Hampton Roads, by the 
U. S. Government. It is within a 
few hour's sail of the Potomac, Rap- 
pahannock, York, and James rivers. 
The advantages which it possesses 
have attracted the attention of the 
General Government, which has ex- 
pended immense sums in the erection 
of a Navy Yard, Dry Dock, and Ma- 
rine Hospital, on a scale, and in a 
style, suited to the great naval depot 
of this Union. The close connection 
existing between Norfolk and North 
Carolina, by means of the Dismal 
Swamp Canal, causes large quantities 
of produce from that state to find their 
way through this channel to market. 
In addition to this, the Portsmouth 
Rail Road, (to be completed in 1835,) 
will open to its enterprising citizens 
an extensive back country, abounding 
in every production of our soil and 
climate. Previous to the late war, 
Norfolk monopolized almost all the 
trade with the British West Indies, 
which was a source of much profit to 
her merchants. From that period, 
however, with the exception of the 
years 1816, '17 and '18, during which, 
the restriction was removed, her com- 
merce has been in a languishing con- 
dition; till the opening of the canal, 
and other causes, again brought it in- 
to healthy action. Large quantities 
of corn, lumber, and naval stores are 
annually shipped from this port to 
Europe, the West Indies, and South 
America. It is already an extensive 
cotton market, and destined to deal in 
that article to still greater extent. The 
city presents a handsome view from 
the water. The streets, in consequence 
of the numerous creeks running into 
the town from every direction, are 
laid out without any regard to order 
or regularity; many buildings, with 
stone fronts, and in improved st) le, 
have been erected within a few years, 



248 



EASTERN VIRC4INIA— NORFOLK. 



and real estate has greatly increased 
in value within the same period. Its 
health, too, has improved in a remark- 
able degree, owing doubtless to the 
paving of the streets, proper draining, 
and better water, by means of cisterns ; 
which last are very common. The 
domestic government consists of a 
Mayor, Alderman, &- Common Coun- 
cil; the first and last being chosen 
annually by the people. The public 
buildings are, a custom house, court 
house, almshouse, academy, and pri- 
mary school house, a maritime hospi- 
tal, Mason's lodge, 8 houses of pub- 
lic worship, (2 Episcopalian, 2 Me- 
thodist, 1 Baptist, 1 Presbyterian, 1 
Catholic, and 1 for colored people.) 
There is 1 theatre, 1 free school, 18 
private seminaries, 2 printing offi- 
ces, — each issuing news papers — a 
news room, and an extensive public 
library. A lyceum, and infant school 
house, of beautiful design, have been 
erected by the liberality of private in- 
dividuals. There are 3 Banks, — U. 
States Bank, Virginia Bank, and 
Farmers' Bank of Virginia — ten 
steamboats ply from Norfolk to Bal- 
timore, Richmond, and other places. 
There are 10 bote's, 3 steam mills, 3 
lanyards, 2 rope walks, and every 
mechanical pursuit is carried on. 

An Admiralty Court, a Superior 
Court of Law, and a Monthly Court, 
conduct the administration of justice. 
There are also, a mechanic's societjr, 
a humane, and a marine society, 2 
volunteer companies of Infantry, 1 of 
Artillery, 1 Rifle, and 1 Cavalry com- 
pany. A cemetery covering several 
acres of ground has been laid out by 
the corporation, and tastefully planted 
in evergreens, which adds much to 
the beauty of the place. Norfolk, 
except Williamsburg, is the oldest in- 
corporated town in Virginia, deriving 
its charter from the British Govern- 
ment. The market abounds in fish, 
oysters, vegetables, &c. of the choicest 
kinds. The chief imports are, coflee, 
rum, salt, sugar, and molasses. Popu- 
tion about 10,000 persons. It con- 



tains 14 attorneys, and 16 physicians. 
The following table partially exhi- 
bits the effects of the fluctuation in the 
trade of Norfolk, upon its population; 



It contained in 1810, 
Whites, 4,776 

Free colored, 592 
Slaves, 3,825 



1820, 1830, 

4,618 5,131 

599 928 

3,261 3,757 



Total, 9,193 9,478 9,816 

showing an increase of 1,338, in the 
latter period. The relative increase 
of the whites and slaves being very 
nearly equal, at about 1 1 per cent. 

Corporation Courts are held on the 
ith Motidays in every month ; — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Lavv'and Chancery 
on the 10/A of June and iSth of No- 
vember. 

Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $342 50— in 1833, 
$340 55. 

North West River Bripge, 
P. O. in the S. E. part of the county, 
on a small tributary of Currituck 
Sound, 24 miles S. E. of Norfolk, and 
about an equal distance N. of Eliza- 
beth City in N. Carolina, 138 miles 
from R. and 24 1 from W. 

PORTSMOUTH, P. T. and seat 
of justice, opposite to the Borough of 
Norfolk, on the left bank of Elizabeth 
river, and at the mouth of its southern 
branch, 219 miles S. S. E. of W. and 
116 from R. Portsmouth affords one 
of the finest harbors in America : — 
ships of the largest class may lay 
with safety at its wharves. The U. 
S. Navy Yard is directly on the south- 
ern extremity of Portsmouth, and 
within the boundaries of the town. 
The Government has made here a 
large and costly dry dock, of the best 
materials and workmanship, capable 
of admitting a seventy-four into its 
bosom. This portion of the town is 
called Gosport, and resembles the 
Northern Liberties of Philadelphia. 
Charlcblown, or Newtown, another 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORTHAMPTON. 249 



suburb, rapidly improvingf, stands on 
the opposite side to Gosport. Popu- 
lation in 1830, 2000. 

County Courts arc held on the 2d 
Mondaf/ in every month; — Quarterly 



iu March, June, August and Nov^ r. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \st of June and lO//i of No- 
vember, 



NORTHAMPTON. 

This county was one of the original shires of 1634, under the name of 
Accomac shire, and was changed to its present name in 1643. — It is bounded 
N. by Accomac, — W. and S. by Chesapeake bay, and E. by the Atlantic 
Ocean. Its length from S. to N. is 32 miles, its mean width, if the Atlan- 
tic Islands are included, 10, and its area 320 square miles. It extends in 
lat. from 3/° 05' to 37° 33', and in long, from 1° to 1° 28' E. of W. C— 
Paramore's, Hog's, Prout's, and Smith's islands cover the Atlantic coast of 
nearly the whole county. 

"The county of Northampton is the southern extremity of the long, low 
peninsula which forms the eastern side of the Chesapeake, and which com- 
prehends eight counties in Maryland and two in Virginia. Separated as 
these counties are from the rest of the state, by the spacious bay, which the 
eye can scarcely see across, and being among the first settled parts of the 
colony, they are a more unmixed people than is often to be found in our 
country, and retain more of the usages, and even language of former times, 
than perhaps any part of the state. The ancient hospitality of Virginia is 
here found unimpaired; and the inhabitants have a high relish for good liv- 
ing, which they are also enabled to indulge by a soil and climate extremely 
favorable to gardening, and by an abundance of excellent fish, oysters, and 
crabs. They preserve great neatness in their houses and persons, which is 
a characteristic of persons living in a sandy country. The whole county 
is as level as a bowling-green, and the roads are good at all seasons of the 
3'ear. This circumstance has probably increased the social character and 
habits of the people, as it certainly has their pleasure carriages. The num- 
ber of gigs in the county, is near three hundred, which is considerably 
greater than that of the free holders. It is computed that the county pays 
about $10,000 a year for its carriages. 

"The soil of this county is thin, light, and always more or less mixed 
with sand; but as it commonly rests on a stifi" clay, and the land is too level 
to be carried ofT by the rains, or to "to Avash," to use a term of the upper 
country, the mhabitants are very much encouraged to pursue an improving 
course of husbandry; yet in truth they are but indifTeront farmers. They 
cultivate the same land incessantly, one year in Indian corn, and the next 
in oats, (their two principal crops,) and their lands improve under this severe 
process, provided they arc not also pastured. Whenever a field is not in 
cultivation, it puts up every where a rich luxuriant crop of a sort of Avild 
vetch, called the magotty-bay bean, which shades the land while it is grow- 
ing, and returns to it a rich coat of vegetable manure. It is by means of 
this fertilizing plant, and the aliment which is plentifully furnished by the 
vapors from the sea, that the product of these lands is so much greater 
than a stranger would be led to expect from the appearance of the soil. The 
land is so easily cultivated, that there are few parts of the state in which 
32 



250 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORTHAMPTON. 



more is produced to the man, or the horse, though more may be produced 
to the acre. On the best farms, an hundred barrels to the hand are often 
obtained. The fig and the pomegranate flourish without protection during 
the winter. The former attains the size of a stout tree, some times twenty- 
feet high, and its delicious fruit is in greater abundance than the inhabitants 
can consume. They have not yet learned the art of curing it, or perhaps 
the species they have, is not suited to that operation. 

"Wind mills arc in use here, but tide mills, at the mouth of small inlets, 
are preferred when attainable. These inlets deeply indent the shore, both 
on the 'bay and sea side,' and while they are convenient for fishing, shoot- 
ing wild fowls, and as harbors for their boats and small craft, they give a 
pleasing variety to the landscapes, which are indeed as pretty as is compati- 
ble with so unvarying a surface. Upon the whole, we know of no part of 
the state in which the comforts of life are enjoyed in greater number, or 
higher perfection. They have too, the sea and land breezes of the West 
Indies; which temper the sultry heats of summer; and their only annoy- 
ances seem to be a few musquetoes, a good many gnats, and now and then 
a bilious or intermittent fever. There is here an article of culture which 
is not much met with in other parts of the state — it is the palma christi, 
called castor bean. It now constitutes a part of almost every farmer's crop, 
to the extent of eight to ten acres or more. The quantity of the nut or 
bean produced, is the same as the land Avould produce in corn. Each bushel 
yields about two gallons and a half of oil, and sells, at the press, for $1 25 
a bushel. This plant is naw cultivated in many of the counties on the 
Western Shore, and the oil it aflx)rds has become a considerable article of 
export, being preferred to that of the West Indies. 

"Among the curiosities of this county, are the ancient records of the 
county from 1640, and a marble tomb, or sarcophagus, about five feet high, 
and as many long, from which we transcribe the following singular inscrip- 
tion: 



Under this marble tomb lies the body 

of the Honorable John Cii.stis, Esq. 

of the City of Williamsburg, 

and Parish of Burton. 

Formerly of Hungar's parish, on the 

Eastern Shore 

of Virginia and county of Northampton, 

Aged 71 years, & yet lived but seven years, 

which was the space of time he kept 

A Bachelor's home at Arlington 

on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. 



On the opposite side one reads 



Tliis inscription put on this tomb was by 
his oAvn positive orders. 

Wm. Cosley Man, in Fenchurch street, 
fecit, London. 



The writer was so intent on perpetuating^ 
his troubles, that he has not mentioned the 
time of his birth, nor did those who came 
after him supply the omission, or state the 
time of his death ; but it probably occurred 
early in the Last Century." 

It is certainly a strong caution against 
the married state. 



Population in 18:20, 7,705 — in 1830, 8,G44. Northampton belongs to 
the third judicial circuit, and second district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $1967 
49— in 1833-4, on land, $99 18—1970 slaves, $492 50—1506 horses, 
$70 36—8 studs, $140 00—13 coaches, $28 00—17 carryalls, $17 00— 
250 gigs, $224 70— Total, $99 2 74. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren ill 1832, $297 65— in 1833,' $234 33. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— NORTHUMBERLAND. 



251 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Capeville, p. O. situated 12 ms. 
south of Easfinlle, the county seat, 6 
N. of Cape Charles, and 17G from 
Richmond. It is a small village, con- 
taining 12 houses, 2 mercantile stores, 
1 boot and shoe factory, and several 
other mechanics. It is a place of 
great resort, for the neighbors of se- 
veral miles around, to obtain early: 
possession of the news, from vessels! 
arriving on the coast. Population 25. 1 

EASTVILLE, P. V. and seal of\ 
■justice, 244 ms. S. S. E. of W. C.I 
and 174 E. of Richmond, in lat. 37^! 
30' and long. 1° 15' E. of W. C— I 
situated about the middle of the coun- 
ty, between the Chesapeake bay and 
the Atlantic Ocean, 2 ms. from -the; 
water on either side, equi-distant from! 
the northern and southern extremity' 
of the county, and 18 ms. north of 
Cape Charles. Eastville is divided; 
by a small valley, which runs through' 
the centre of the town, and has two 
principal streets, running at right an- 
gles. It contains, besides the usual 
county buildings, 21 dwelling houses, 
4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 new 
and handsome bricic Episcopal church, 
1 common school, and 1 bible society. 



The mechanical pursuits are, 1 coach 
manufactory, which completes about 
$6000 Avorth of work annually, 1 
coach and harness maker, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 blacksmiths, 2 boot and shoe 
manufactories, 3 tailors, 1 house and. 
sign painter, and 1 hatter. There are 
in this village, 3 castor oil manufacto- 
ries, and 2 others in the country, the 
whole making and exporting about 
20,000 gallons of oil annually. Its 
principal commerce is with Baltimore, 
Philadelphia, and New York. Pro- 
perty has increased rapidly in value 
whithin the last three years, having 
in Eastville more than doubled. The 
inhabitants are not to be surpassed for 
their morality, and hospitality to stran- 
gers. Eastville is healthy. Popula- 
tion 217 persons; of Avhom 2 are at- 
torneys and 3 regular physicians. 

CoiDitp Courts are held on the 2d 
Monday in everjr month; — Quarterly 
in March, June, Septtvibtr and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the \5th 
of May and 21s^ of October by Judge 
Upshur. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 

NoiiTHUMBERL.\ND, was created by the legislature in 1648; we do not 
know from what county it was taken. It is bounded on the N. by the Po- 
tomac river, N. E. and E. by Chesapeake bay, S. by Lancaster, S. W. by 
Richmond, and W. b\' Westmoreland. Its length is 30 ms.; mean width 12:|, 
and area 246 sq. ms.' It extends in lat. from 38° 40', to 38° 05' N. and in 
long, from 0° 2', to 0° 45' E. of Washington City. The southern portion 
inclines southeastward to the Chesapeake, and the northern portion, north- 
eastward towards the Potomac. Population in 1810, 8,308 — 1820, 8,016 — 

1830, 7,953. It belongs to the 5th judicial circuit, and 3d district. Tax 
paid in 1832-3, $1,233 34— in 1833-4— on lots, $22 00— on land, 
$586 77—1,571 slaves, $392 75— 826 horses, $49 56— 6 studs, $46 00— 
25 coaches, $54 50—6 carryalls, $5 00—158 gigs, $84 50. Total, 
$1,242 80. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $242 80— in 

1833, $320 97. 



252 EASTERN VIRGINIA— NOTTOWAY. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES.irOST OFFICES, &c. 



Burgess' Store, P. O. in the 
southern part of Northumberland Co. 
101 ms. N. E. of R., and IGO ms from 
W. 

NORTHUMBERLAND C. H. 
or HeathsvUle, P. V. 151 ms, S. S. 
E. of W. and 92 N. E. of R. This 
little village contains besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, 60 dwelling 
houses, 4 mercantile stores, 1 large 
and handsome Methodist meeting 
house, I Sunday school, 1 Academy, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, 1 tanyard, 
1 gig maker, 1 hatter, I sa,ddler, 2 
tailors, 2 boot and shoe factories and 
1 confectionary. 

This village is plea.santly situated, 
about a mile and a half from the head 



of Coan river, which is navigable, 
and empties into the Potomac. It is 
perhaps the handsomest village in the 
Northern Neck. 

Couniji Courts are held on the 2</ 
Monday in every month: — Quartcr- 
/?/ in March, Matj, August and No' 
vembcr, 

JuDGE~fLoMAX holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 3d of April, and 17/A of 
October. 

Tan Yard, P. O. 101 ms. from 
R. and 162 ms. S. S. E. of W. 

Wicomico Chitrch, and P. O. 
about 6 ms. W. of Smith's Point, and 
9 ms. E. of Bridgetown, 160 ms. S. 
E.'of W. and 98 n^s. from R. 



NOTTOWAV. 

Nottoway, was created by the legislature in 1788, and formed from a 
part of Amelia Co. It is bounded on the N. by Amelia, E. by Dinwiddle, 
S. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Lunenburg and Brunswick, 
and W. by Prince Edward. Its length is from S. E. to N. W. 19f ms. ; 
mean breadth 15, and area 297 sq. ms. It extends in kit. from 36° 54', to 
37° 14', and in long, from 1° 3', to 1° 26', W. of W. C The northern 
part of this county is drained by creeks which flow through Amelia into 
the Appomattox river, and the southern part by the Nottoway and its tri- 
butaries. Population in 1810,9,770—1820,9,658—1830, 10,141. Notto- 
way belongs to the second judicial circuit, and 5th district. Tax paid in 
1832-3, $2,492 51— in 1833-4, on land, $1,270 54— 3,566 slaves, $891 50 
— 1,698 horses, $101 88—5 studs, $90 00—60 coaches, $151 50—20 
carryalls $20 00—84 gigs, $55 45. Total, $2,580 87. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $247 70— in 1833, $163 33. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Blacks and Whites, P. O. 60 
ms. S. W. of R.,and 182 ms. from W. 

Jeffries' Store, P. O. 197 ms. 
from W. and 75 ms. from R. 

MoRGANvii.i.E, p. O. 56 ms. S. 
W. of R., and 178 from W. 

NOTTOWAY C. H. P. V. 67 
ms. W. of R. and 189 ms. from W. 
shuatcd on Nottoway river, 1 mile N. 
of Ilcndersonville, in the biusines? 



part of the counly. It contains a C. 
H., clerk's office, and a criminal and 
debtors jail, besides 15 dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 hotel, 
1 saddler, 1 tailor and 1 blacksmith's 
shop. In the vicinity on Nottoway 
river there is a manufacturing flour 
mill. A daily stage passes this place 
on its route from IVtersburg to N. C. 
Population 70 persons; of whom 1 is 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ORANGE. 253 



an attorney and 1 a rcg-ular phj-sician. 
Cnii.nl 11 Coiirlx are held on the \st 
^riiiirsdaij in every month: — Cluarlrr- 
ly ill Ma re It, May, AuguaL and No- 
vember. 



JuDoi: May holds his Circuit Supe- 
rior (Jourt of Law and Chancery on 
the lUth of April and September. 



OiJANGE. 

Oran'ok was created by act of Assembly in 1734, and formed out of a 
part of Spottsylvania Co. It is situated at the eastern ba.se of the Blue 
llidg-e ; bounded by Spottsylvania, E. and S. E. .; Louisa, S. Albemarle, S. 
W. Blue Rid(,re, separating it from Rockingham, W. by Conway river, 
separating it from Madison, N. \V. and by Rapid Ann river, separating it 
from Culpeper N. Its length diagonally from E. to W. is 5G ms. ; mean 
width 10 ms. ; and area .jGO sq. ms. — E.xtending in lat. from 38^ 07', to 38° 
2.j' N. and in long, from iP 4i', to 1 ' Ao' W. of Washington City. The 
northern part in its entire length, is bounded by, and drained into Rapid 
Ann, or S. W. branchof Rappahannock; its declivity is eastward. The S. 
E. angle gives source to the North Anna, and the S. W. to the extreme 
northern sources of the Rivanna river. 

The surface is hilly and tlie country is nearly- erjually divided by the S. 
W. mountain. No country can excel it in the .salubrity of its atmosphere, 
or the purity of its water, which in some instances is highly chalj'beate, 
from the large masses ot iron ore found imbedded in its soil. The quality 
of its soil is in general verj' fertile. In the upper or mountainous division, 
it is of a deep orange color, (whence its name) very productive and well 
adapted to the use of plai.ster and clover, the fertilizing effects of which, are 
visible upon many of the farms in this section. In the lower or S. E. di- 
vision, the soil, which is of a white, sandy character, is much less fc-rtile 
and not so easily improved as the red mountain land. There is a vein of 
hmestone pa.ssing through this county, in a line nearly parallel with the 
mountains, which has in some places been opened and worked to advan- 
tage. Its mineral wealth is very great, a vein of copper ore, has been dis- 
covered in the Blue Ridge, not tur rom Swift Run Gap, which is supposed 
to be valuable. Iron abounds in the vicinity of the mountains, and in the 
lower section of the county, not far from the Spottsylvania line, gold has 
been obtained, in considerable quantities. There are at present several 
mines in successful operations; the principal of which, are Grymes\ the 
Greenwood, Coaltrr''s and Grasiy^s, at which latter place, the Virginia 
Mining Company, has been at considerable expense in erecting machinery' 
for grinding the rock. 

There is an Indian Mound in this county, on the lands of Mr. Jacob 
Walters, on the Rapid Ann river, near the boundary between Orange and 
Madison. This mound has been discovered, for nearly 120 years: but 
no description of it has hitherto been published. The bodies lie with their 
heads towards the N. The mound is probable between 12 and ir> ft. high- 
er than its base, and of very considerable length. The bodies lie in tiers, 
one above another, and about 2 ft. apart. It is supposed, that some Indian 
battle was fought here at some remote period; and there is every appear- 
ance of some of the bodies Jiaving been burned befi>ro interment, as there 



254 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ORANGE. 



are frequently found among the skeletons burned bones, and pieces of coal. 
The sight is truly awful to one who is not in the habit of seeing the bones 
of human beings. The mound is about 30 ft. sq. and appears to contain 
between 3 and 400 of these skeletons. Pieces of scalping knives and toma- 
hawks, are frequently found near this spot of Indian interment. The staple 
productions of this county are wheat, rye, oats, corn, hemp, flax and tobacco. 
The Avheat is mostly ground into flour at the mills within the county, of 
which there are 8. 

Houses were erected in 1833 for the reception of the poor, where they 
are supplied with all the comforts of life at the annual expense to the county 
of about $2,000. There is an institution in this county, which was incor- 
porated some years since, under the name of the Orange Humane Society, 
for the education of indigent youths; — it has a capital of upwards of $20,000, 
Avhich is loaned out to individuals upon good, real and personal security, 
the interest arising from which, is applied to the education of such youths 
of promise as arc destitute. Orange is entitled to send 1 member, under the 
new constitution to the assembly. Population in 1820, 12,913 — 1830, 
14,637. Taxes paid in 1833, $3,796 15— in 1834, on lots, $16 98— on 
land, $2,419 94— 3,768 slaves, $942 00— 3,138 horses,$188 28— 11 studs, 
$150 00—44 coaches, $91 45—24 carryalls, $24 00—35 gigs, $19 85. 
Total, $3,852 50. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $333 78 
— in 1833, no commisioner's report. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Barboursville, p. V. at the 
north western foot of the S. W. moun- 
tain, 105 ms. S. W. of W. and 76 ms. 
N. W. of R., situated at the intersec- 
tion of the main stage road, leading 
from Washington to Milledgeville, 
Georgia, and the road h'om Swift Run 
Gap to Richmond. It contains 2 
mercantile stores, 2 houses of private 
entertainment, 2 tanyards, a saddler, 
tailor, wheelwright, blacksmith, boot 
and shoe maker, house of public wor- 
ship, free for all denominations, and 2 
Sunday schools. The situation is 
handsome, and well chosen for a vil- 
lage, 12 ms. S. W. of Orange C. H. 
17 ms. from Charlottesville, and 6 
ms. from the elegant seat of the venera 
ble ex-president Madison. A mail 
from the N., and 1 from the S. ar- 
rives here every day, and a horse 
mail twice a week. Population 50 
persons; of whom 1 is a physician. 

BuRTONsviLLE, P. O. iu the eas- 
tern part of the county, 98 ms. N. W. 
of R. and 108 from'W., situated on 
the S. bank of the Rapid Ann river. 



and immediately on the main road 
leading from Fredericksburg to Swift 
Run Gap, 50 ms. above the former, 
and 14 ms. below the latter, 16 ms. 
above Orange C. H. and 6 ms. below 
Stannardsville, 10 ms. S. of Madison 
C. FI. and 28 ms. S. of Culpeper C. 
H. at the intersection of the roads 
leading from the two last mentioned 
places to Charlottesville, and Swift 
Run Gap, about 1 1 ms. W. of Mr. 
Madison's residence, and 25 N. of 
Charlottesville. Burtonsville was 
formerly extensively known, on ac- 
count of its commercial business, but 
at present it has only a private resi- 
dence, and P. O. The soil of the sur- 
rounding country is good, and well 
adapted, to the culture of tobacco, In- 
dian corn, wheat. Rye, 6cc. and sus- 
ceptible of easy and high improve- 
ment by the use of clover, plaster, 
&c. The neighbourhood is well 
watered and healthy, with an indus- 
trious and thriving community. 

CiiESNVT Hn>L, p. O. 85 ms. from 
R. and 87 ms. from W. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— ORANGE. 



25i 



Cavesville, p. O. situated 6 ms. 
above Barboursville, on the road 
from Swift Run Gap, to Richmond, 
82 ms. N. W. of R. and 111 ms. 
from W. 

GoRDONsviLLE, P. O. 70 ms. N. 
W. of R. and 102 ms. S. W. of W., 
situated at the eastern foot of the S. 
W. mountain, and on the sources of 
the North Anna river, about 50 ms. 
S. W. by W. of Fredericksburg, and 
10 ms. S. of Oraiige C. H. It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, a mer- 
cantile store, tavern and smith's shop. 

Locust Grove, P. O. 86 ms. from 
R. and 76 ms. S. W. of W. 

Poplar Rux, P. O. 83 ms. from 
R., and 95 ms. S. W. of W. 

ORANGE C. H. P. V. 80 ms. 
from R. and 92 ms. from W., situated 
about equi-distant from the N. E. and 
N. W. angles of the county ; 3 ms. 
from the Rapid Ann river, and 8^ 
ms. from the North Anna, or north 
branch of the Pamunkey. This is 
one of the most flourishing inland 
villages below the mountains. It 
contains besides the ordinary count}- 
buildings, 5 1 dwelling houses, mostly 
of brick, and built in a handsome 
style, 9 mercantile stores, 2 hou.-es ( f 
public worship, built of brick, ( I Epis- 
copalian, and 1 Methodist,) 1 female 
academy, 2 common schools and 2 
hotels. The mechanics are I hat 
manufacturer, 2 cabinet makers, 1 sil- 
ver smith and jeweller, 3 blacksmiths, 
1 boot and shoe manufacturer, 1 tan- 
yard, I house and sign painter, 2 
bricklayers, 3 house carpenters, 1 
wagon maker, 2 tailors, 1 coach ma- 
ker, 1 saddle and harness maker, 1 
turner, and 1 printing office, from 
which a weekly paper is issued. The 
facilities of stage accommodation in 
this village are perhaps not to be sur- 
passed in the state. Thirty mails are 
received at the P. O. in each week ; 2 



mail stages run daily through this 
place from Washington City to the 
W. and one tri weekly, 4 horse coach 
from here to Richmond Population 
503 persons ; of whom 4 are attorneys 
and 3 regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the Ath 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Field holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 28<A of April and September. 

Orange Spring, P. O. 104 ms. 
from R. and 94 ms. from W. 

River Bank, or Ellisville P. O. 
97 ms. from R. and 104 ms. S. W. of 
W., situated at the junction of Hicko- 
ry creek with the North Anna river. 
It contains 10 dwelling houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 manufacturing flour 
mill, 1 grist and saw mill, 1 tanyard, 
1 saddler, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe 
maker, 1 blacksmith, 1 wheelwright, 
1 cabinet maker, and 1 house carpen- 
ter. This place is rapidly improving 
and bids fair to become a flourishing 
village. Population about 100. 

Staxardsville, P. O. 92 ms. 
from R. and 1 14 S. W. of W., situated 
in the extreme western part of the Co. 
near the Blue Ridge, immediately on 
the Hillsborough road, leading from 
Louisa C. H. to Harrisonburg, in a 
healthy and pleasant neighborhood. 
It coKtains 21 dwelling houses, 5 
mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 tanyard, 
1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 
tailor, 2 smith shops, 1 wheelwright, 
1 hatters shop, and 1 gun smith. Pop- 
ulation, whites, 90 persons ; of whom 
1 is a physician, — colored 52. Total, 
142. 

Thorne Hill, P. O. 92 ms. from 
R., and 104 from W. 

Verdierville, p. O. 91 nis. from 
R., 81 ms. from W. 



HoO EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK, 

PATRICK. 

Patrick coUilty was established by the Legislature in 1701, and taken 
from Henry Co. Patrick is a border county, extending along the State line 
between Virginia and North Carolina, a distance of between 45 and 50 
miles. It is bounded on the N. by the Blue Ridge mountains, which in 
running W. approach so near the Carolina line, as to make the county very 
narrow at its weslei'n extremity. In fact the county formerly extended to 
the point where the mountain intersected the state line; but a considerable 
portion of its former western extremhy has been added to the county of 
Grayson, for the convenience of the people residing therein. The con- 
tiguous counties on the N. and W. are the trans-montane counties of 
Floyd and Grayson ; on the E. it is bounded by the counties of Franklin 
and Henry. Its width varies from 30 to 80 miles, averaging something 
like 20 miles; and its area is 541 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 3G° 30' 
to 30° 47' N. and in long, from 2° 50' to 3° 40' W of W. C. 

The general face of the county is broken, but not as much so as that of 
most of the piedmont counties to the eastward of it. It is intersected 
however by several considerable mountains ranging from E. to W. The 
principal of these is the Bull Mountain, which unites with the main moun- 
tain at its western extremit3\ and runs eastwardly nearly to the eastern boun- 
dary of the county, dividing it (not very unequally) irom AV. to E. Tlie 
Court House is situated on the S. side of this mountain at the distance of 
3 or 4 miles from its summit, which is as near as a suitable situation could 
be procured, on account of the spurs of the mountain. 

There is another mountain (which may be considered a spur of the 
Blue Ridge) called Carlcr^s mountain. It leaves the main mountain S. 
of the Bull mountain and ranges nearly parallel with it, inclining a little 
more to the S. This mountain is not very long, extending in length not 
more than 8 or 10 miles. It lies very near the Courthouse, immediately S. 
of it, and terminates nearly opposite to it. The No Business mountain 
runs also parallel with the Bull mountain, on the S. side of it, but lies de- 
tached from the main mountain near the eastern end of the county. It is 
probably 7 or 8 miles long, and ranges pretty much in a line with Carter's 
mountain, there being however an interval of 4 or 5 milts between the 
eastern end of the one and the Avestern end of the other. These are all 
the mountains which have acquired a distinct name and character; there 
are however a great number of spurs and knobs, which though namelc-ss, 
might Avell deserve some distinguishing appellation. These generally 
extend out from the Blue Ridge in various directions and for various dis- 
tances. 

The principal water courses are the Dim, *S'/>/i///'.s- river, the Moj/os, and 
the Ararat, with their tributaries; — all which not only intersect the county, 
but have their sources in the mountains which form its northwestern border. 
The Dan rises in a plain on the top of the Blue Ridge, some 8 or 10 
miles from the declivity of the mountain, and running to the S. waters an 
extensive and level body of land called the meadows of Dan. It then 
breaks through the mountain, or rather tumbles down the mountain, and 
struggling on for 8 or 10 miles among stupendous clifTs and precipices, 
reaches the level country, not far from the Slate line, and crosses into North 
Carolina. This stream crosses the county within about 10 miles of its 
western cxlrcniilv. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK, 257 

The Ararat also rises on the flat table land on the top of the mountain, 
hot very remote from the head of the Dan, but takes a different direction. 
It runs to the S. W. and crossing the state line near the western extremity 
of the county, takes its way through the county of Surry, N. C. and empties 
into the Yadkin. 

Smith's river has its source in the Blue Ridge to the N. of the Bull 
mountain, and traversing that section of the county lying between the Bull 
and Blue Ridge mountains from W. to E., crosses near the eastern ex- 
tremity of the Bull mountain into the county of Henry. 

There are two Mayos, the South Mayo and North Mayo. The South 
Mayo rises in the main mountain, betAveen the Bull mountain and Carter's 
mountain, and running southeastwardly between those two mountains, passes 
by the Court House, and crossing the south side of the country diagonally, 
enters North Carolina near the southeastern corner of the county. 

The North Mayo rises in the Bull mountain, on its S. side, and running 
eastwardly for some distance between that mountain and the No Business 
mountain, turns to the S. around the eastern extremity of the last named 
mountain, and enters North Carolina, first passing through a small corner 
of the county of Henry. — The two Mayos unite soon after leaving Vir- 
ginia, and finally empty into the Dan. 

There are many creeks tributary to the rivers already enumerated, a few 
of the principal of which shall be given. First those which empty into 
Dan. This stream receives before it descends the mountain, Ivy Creek, 
as large as itself: after it descends the mountain, it receives a number of 
small streams not worthy of notice; — near where it crosses into North 
Carolina, it receives Archy's creek from the S. W. and soon after crossing 
the line it receives little Dan from the N. which also rises in Patrick. 
The Ararat receives after it descends the mountain, Doe run and John- 
sorCs creek, from the N. and Claris creek from the S. Smith's river re- 
ceives Rock Castle creek, Widgeon creek, and several other smaller ones 
from the N. and Sycamore and Goblin Town creek, from the S. The 
South Mayo receives Spoon creek from the N., and RusselVs creek from tha 
S., besides other smaller ones. The North Mayo receives Mill creek from 
the the S., and Rogeis creek from the N. 

There is a great diversity of soil in the county of Patrick. The numerous 
water courses Avhich intersect it in every direction afford more or less bottom 
land of good qualit}^ and a large portion of the upland is strong, though often 
steep and rocky. The soil and climate below the mountain are adapted to the 
culture of corn, wheat, rye, oats, tobacco and hemp The land on the top of 
the mountain before alluded to, as being contiguous to the head of Dan, and 
designated as the meadows of Dan, is generally fertile, and while the climate 
is too cold for the successful culture of corn or tobacco, it is admirably adapted 
to the production of small grain and grass. This body of land is at present 
included in large surveys, made on speculatjun, which have not generally 
come into market; notwithstanding which it is rapidly settling and, without 
doubt, is destined to be the most flourishing part of the county. The ac- 
cess to it, though somewhat dilUcult on the S. and E., is entirely easy on 
the N. and W; as the descent of the mountain in those directions, is scarce- 
ly perceptible. The staple article of produce, on the south side of the 
Bull mountain is tobacco. On the N. side of that mountain there can 
scarcely be said to be a staple. The people live independently, mostly 
within themselves and generally sell their surplus grain, pork, beef, bran- 
33 



258 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 

dy, &c. The principal portion of the slave population is on the south 
side of the county, which may in some measure account for the article of 
tobacco being more raised on that side than on the other. The mountain 
section of the county is beginning already in some degree to be, and 
is destined soon to be entirely, a grazing country: admirably calculat- 
ed for the raising of cattle, horses and hogs. — The tobacco raised in the 
county is mostly manufactured and sold in the soiuhern and western 
States. Immense quantities of this article are annually sent to the States 
of South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama, and sold at good prices for cash. 
Nearly every planter who raises tobacco to any extent is a manufacturer ; 
but there are some who make a business of it, and purchase the article in 
the leaf from their neighbors, without prizing, at a very liberal price. 

Land is quite cheap compared with land of similar quality farther east- 
ward, and in consequence there has been for some years back an annual 
accession of population by immigration from the lower counties. This 
accession has however been more than counterbalanced in the last tAvo or 
three years, by the prevalence of the ^Ihxouri viania, which has carried 
many of our best citizens to that State, and which still prevails though in 
an abated degree. 

The climate of this county is truly delightful. The bracing air of the 
mountain, combined with the mild breath of the south, renders the atmos- 
phere pure and at the same time soft,- — and we do not believe there is a 
healthier climate in the. world. For many years in some neighborhoods 
there was not a physician within twenty miles; (which our correspondent 
writes,) "you may consider either as the cause or effect of the health of my 
vicinity, which ever you like." There are no manufactories in the county, 
except those of tobacco, already referred to; and a forge owned by John 
A. Hairston, Esq. on Goblin Town creek, on the north side of the Bull 
mountain, near its eastern extremity. This forge has been in operation 
for many years, and the enterprising proprietor, in conjunction with two 
connections, men of capital as well as himself, is now erecting a large fur- 
nace within a short, distance of the forge, which will go into operation 
during the next /IiU or winter. Tlie supply of ore is abundant, convenient, 
and ot the best quality. Iron ore abounds in other parts of the county 
also. 

"The scenery presented by the passage of Dan river down the mountain, 
and into the fiat country, is awful and sublime in the highest degree. The 
river rises in a plain, traverses it for 8 or 10 miles, till it reaches the de- 
clivity of the mountain, dashes down it by a rapid succession of perpen- 
dicular falls, and winds its solitary way, unapproached by any footstep 
save that of the mountain hunter, and hemmed in on every side by im- 
mense mountains, descending almost perpendicularly to the water edge for 
the distance of several miles, before its banks afibrd room for settlements. 
The PtJinachs of Dan are found in this interval. To approach them yow 
must ascend the mountain at some convenient gap — upon reaching the top 
of the mountain, the country becomes comparatively level. The visiter 
goes along the top under the guidance of some mountaineer, who knows 
the locality of the pinnacles; he meets with no obstruction except fallen 
logs, and a most luxuriant growth of weeds, till suddenly he reaches the 
declivity of the mountain. An immense basin presents itself to his 
view, surrounded by lofty mountains, almost perpendicular, of which 
the ridge on wliich he stands forms a boundary. The depth of the 
basin is beyond his view and appears to him to be incalculable. From 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 259 

the midst of the basin two pinnacles, in the shape of a sugar loaf, rise to a 
level with the surrounding mountains, and of course with the beholder. 
They appear to be masses of rock rudely piled on each other, wiith barely 
soil enough in the crevices to nourish a lew bushes. There is no visible 
outlet to the basin, the narrow chasm through -which the river makes its 
escape being out of view. If the visiter Avishes to ascend the main pin- 
nacle, (one being much larger than the other,) he descends from his sta- 
tion, the face of the mountain which is very steep, to a distance which he 
imagines sufficient to carry him down the hisfhest mountain, — vv-hen he 
reaches a narrow ridge or pass-way not more than thirty feet wide, con- 
necting at the distance of thirty or forty yards, the pinnacle to the main 
mountain, — and to his astonishment the river appears at an incalculable 
distance below him. The ascent of the pinnacle then commences and an 
arduous and somewhat perilous one it is. A narrow pathway winds up 
among the rocks, and in many places, the adventurous climber has to pull 
himself up a perpendicular ascent of five or six feet by the bushes. V7heu 
he reaches the top, however, he is amply repaid for his labor in ascending. 
The prospect, though necessarily a limited one, is picturesque and sublime 
in a high degree. The view of the basin is then complete. The moun- 
tains surrounding it nearly of an uniform height; no outlet visible and the 
beholder perched upon the summit of an immense natural pyramid in the 
centre. The river is seen occasionally as it winds around the ba.5e cf the 
pinnacle. It attempts to pass on the west side v>'here the narrow ridge by 
which the visiter approaches arrests its course; it then winds entirely 
round the pinnacle close to its base until it comes to the opposite or southern 
side of the narrow ridge, passing between the two pinnacles: it then passes 
round the western and southern side of the smaller pinnacle, and makes 
its escape as it best can from its apparently hopeless imprisonment. The 
summit of the pinnacle is about twenty or thirty feet square, — and strange 
to relate, small bushes of the aspin grow upon it — which is found no where 
else growing wiUl in this section of country. The echo produced is 
somewhat remarkable. If a gun be fired off on the top of the pinnacle, 
you hear nothing for several seconds, Avhen suddenly in the direction of the 
narrow pass through which the river flows, a rushing sound is heard, 
wliich aUhough not a correct echo, seems to be the sound of the report 
escaping through the pass."* 

"The other natural curiosity to which reference has been made is "the 
Bursted rock," which is not very far from the Pinnacles, and forms a part 
of the frowning and sublime scenery which overhangs the Dan, in its 
passage through the mountain. You approach it as you do the pinnacle 
along the level top of the mountain, till suddenly your course is arrested 
by a perpendicular descent of many hundred feet. The face of the pre- 
cipice is a smooth rock. Far below every thing appears in ruins rocks 
piled on rocks, — the timber swept from the earth; and every appearance 
indicates that a considerable portion of the mountain has been, by some 
great convulsion of nature, riven and torn from the rest and precipitated 
into the valley, or rather chasm below, 

* I have given a^ou this imperfect description of this pinnacle of Dan from my own 
personal view and experience, having visited them on the 4th of July some years 
ago in company with several friends, and fired a salute from the top of the main 
pinnacle. I can therefore vouch for its fidelity, if I canaot recommend it for its 
clearness or beautv. 



260 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PITTSYLVANIA. 



Population in 1810, 4,695,— 1820, 5,089—1830, 7,395. Patrick be- 
longs to the tenth judicial circuit and fifth district. Taxes paid in 1833, 
S816 40— in 1834 on land, $441 77— 980 slaves, S245 00— 1629 horses, 
$97 74—7 studs, $52 00—3 coaches, $8 80—3 carryalls, $3 00—2 gigs, 
$1 00. Total, $849 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$281 92— in 1833, $203 39. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «kc. 



Arrarat, p. O, 282 ms. from R. 
and 358 S. W. by W. from W. 

Penn's, p. O. in the eastern part 
of the county, 17 miles N. E. of 
Taylor sville, 224 ms. from R. and 
316 S. W. of W. 

TAYLORSVILLE, or Patrick 
C. H. P. O. — situated on Mayo river, 
90 ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 35 S. 
of Christiansburg, 241 S. W. by W. 
of R. and 333. S. W. of W. in N. 
Jat, 36° 38' and long. 3° 14' W, of 



W. C. It contains besides the usual 
county buildings, 40 dwelling houses, 
2 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, a tan- 
yard, saddler, tailor, manufacturing 
floLir mill, and 2 tobacco factories. 

County Courts are held on the 
Thursday after the 2c/ Monday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
Junt, August and November. 

Judge Saunders holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 21 of April and Septimber. 



PITTSYLVANIA. 

Pittsylvania was established by the Legislature in 1767, and formed 
from a portion of Halifax. It is bounded on the N. by the Staunton river, 
which separates it from Bedford and Campbell, — E. by Plalifax, — S. by 
Caswell and Rockingham counties of North Carolina, — W. by Henry and 
Franklin. Its mean length is 35^ miles, breadth 25| ; audits area 891 
sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 36° to 37° 05', and in long, from 2° 
12' to 2° 35' W. of W. C. This county is watered by Staunton river on 
the N., Dan on the S. and Banister in the centre. Much of the soil is ex- 
cellent, and large crops of tobacco are produced. Population in 1810, 
17,172; 1820,21,313; 1830,26,034. It belongs to the tenth judicial cir- 
cuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1833, $5089 04— in 1834 on lots, 
$167 2l™on land, $2794 18—5905 slaves, $1476 25—5458 horses, 
$327 48— 25 studs, $286 50— 53 coaches, $136 75— 35 carryalls $38 50 
— 62 gigs, $38 95. Total, $5265 82. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 18;:2 8830 62, in 1833, $913 88. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES &c. 



Eerger's Store, P. 0. 1 64 ms. S. 
W. by W. of R. and 242 from W. 

Calland's p. O. 179 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 271 from W. 

Chesnut Grove, P 0. in the 
southern part of the county, 180 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 272 from W. 
situated 13 ms, S. of Competition,the 



seat of justice. It contains 7 dwel- 
ling houses, a general mercantile 
store, and a grocery, Methodist house 
of worship, tobacco factory, tailor, 
boot and shoe maker, cabinet maker, 
and a blacksmith shop. The situa- 
tion is healthy, the soil of the sur- 
rounding country productive, and 



EASTERN V I RG I N I A— PI TTS Y L V A X lA . 



261 



principally adapted to the cultivation 
of tobacco, Indian corn, rye, oats, &.c. 
Population 30 persons, of whom 1 is 
a physician. 

Crafton, p. O. 156 ms. S. W. by 
W. of R. and 236 S. S. W. of W. 
It contains 7 dwelling houses, 2 ta- 
verns, 2 blacksmith shops, a tailor, 
and boot and shoe maker. Popula- 
tion 28. 

Chalk Level, P. O. 169 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 247 from W. 

COMPETITION, P. V. and stat 
of justice, is situated near the centre 
of the county, on a brunch of Banis- 
ter river, 1 67 ms. S. W by W. of R. 
and 259 S. W. of W. in'lat. 36° 50' 
and long. 2° 20' AV. of W. C. Be- 
sides the ordinary county buildings, 
it contains 125 dwelling houses, 3 
mercantile stores, 3 taverns, 1 house 
of public worship, (Methodist,) and 2 
common schools. The mechanics 
are, I watch maker and silversmith, 
1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker, 2 
blacksmiths, 1 wheelwright, 2 tan- 
ners, and several saddlers in the vi- 
cinity. This town is rapidly improv- 
ing. Several large and handsome 
brick buildings have lateh'been erec- 
ted. 7'he situation is considered 
healthy. The land of the surround- 
ing country is fertile, producing well 
all the common staples — Indian corn, 
wheat, tobacco, (kc. Population 200 
persons, of whom o are attorneys, 
and 2 practising physicians. 

County Courts are held on the od 
Monday in every month; Quarterly, 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Sauxders holds his Cir- 
cuit Superior Court of Law and 
Chancery on the 20//i of May and 
October. 

Danville, P. V. 16S ms. from 
R. and 258 from W. Danville is a 
flourishing village, situated at the 
falls on the right bank of Dan river, 
near the S. border of the countj^ and 
about 5 ms. from the N. C. line. 
Dan river is navigable for batteaux 



40 ms. above this place. Danville 
was incorporated in pursuance of an 
act of the Legislature in 1831-2. 

It contains about 115 houses, 9 
miscellaneous stores, 3 groceries, 2 
commission houses, 2 tobacco Avare- 
houses, 2 Branch Banks, (Virginia 
and Farmers,) 1 masonic hall, at pre- 
sent used as a place of public wor- 
ship by all denominations, 1 male 
and 1 female academy, in a flourish- 
ing condition, also a private seminary 
for young ladies, with upwards of 40 
pupils, — 1 well organized sunday 
school, I apothecary shop, 2 tobacco 
factories, 1 oil mill, 2 manufacturing 
flour mills, 3 saw mills, 1 iron foun- 
dry, and 2 taverns. The mechanical 
pursuits are, 1 printing office, issuing 
a weekly paper, {Danville Reporter,) 

2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 2 boot and shoe 
factories. 4 tailors, 3 cabinet makers, 
1 chair maker, 2 milliners, 1 plough 
factory, and 3 blacksmiths. The 
principal staples of this market are 
wheat and tobacco. Population sup- 
posed to be about 1000. It contains 

3 attorneys, and 7 regular physicians. 

Hill Grove, P. O. 150 ms. S.W. 
bjr.W. of R. and 228 from W., situa- 
ted 4 ms. S. of Ward's bridge on the 
post road leading from Lynchburg to 
Danville, 30 ms. S. of the former, and 
40 N. of the latter place. This sec- 
tion of country is healthy, and \vell 
watered ; the soil moderately fertile, 
well adapted to the culture of tobacco 
and grain. The growth of timber is 
generally oak, pine, hickory, &c. 

Liberty Hall, P.O. 121 ms. S. 
W. by \V. of R. 

Moxroetox, p. O. on the right 
bank of Staunton river, in the ex- 
treme north western angle of the 
county, 161 ms. S. W. by W. of R. 
and 239 from W. This place some 
10 or 12 years ago, promised fair to 
become a town of some magnitude. 
It was laid oft^ in lots, and a consider- 
able number of them sold, several 
houses were built and occupied, and 
one or two stores established ; but by 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— POWHATAN. 



some fatality, it had no sooner com- 
menced its career, than it bcoun to 
decline, and every one of the first 
settlers left the place, and most of the 
houses were thrown down; others 
moved off and rebuilt Avhere ihey 
were of more service, and it now 
contains only 2 families, 1 tannery, 
and 1 manufacturing flour mill. 

Mount Airy, P. O. IGl ms. S. 
W. of R. and 242 from W., situated 
in the lower end of the county, 
in a health}'- and flourishing neigh- 
borhood, about 5 miles from Halifax 
county line, at the intersection of the 
roads leading from Lynchburg to 
Danville and Milton, and the road 
leading from Charlotte to Franklin 
C H., 39 ms. from the former, 32' 
from Danville, and 1(3 N. E. of Pill- 
sylvania C H. It has 1 mercantile 
store, several dwelling houses, a saw 
and grist mill, and 2 cotton machines 
are in the neighborhood, and 3 houses 
of public v\-orship, 1 Episcopalian, 1 
Methodist, and 1 Baptist. The face 
of the surrounding country is level, 
population not very dense, — the soil 
fertile, and well adapted to Indian 
corn, wheat, oats, and tobacco. 

Paytonsburg, p. O. distant 148 
ms. from R. and 248 from W., situa- 
ted on the road which leads from 
Danville to Richmond, 30 miles be- 
low the former. It contains several 
dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, 
1 tavern, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, I tai- 
lor, and a blacksmith shop, Avith seve- 
ral private families. The situation 
is eligible and handsome. 



Robkrtson's Store, P.JO. 174 
ms. from R. and 252 S. W. of W. 

Smith's Store, P. O. 162 miles 
from R. and 244 S. W. of W. 

Spring Garden, P. O. 160 ms. 
from R. and 250 S. W by W. of W. 
It is situated 18 ms. N. of Danville, 
and 8 E. of Competition. It contains 
a country store, house of entertain- 
ment, and a blacksmith shop. There 
is a Baptist house of worship in the 
neighborhood, called "Shockoe meet- 
ing house." The soil in the imme- 
diate neighborhood is not very fer- 
tile. The productions are tobacco, 
wheat, corn, oats, &c.: that of the 
surrounding country is more so, be- 
ing well adapted to Avheat; large 
crops of which will probably lie 
raised as soon as the Roanoke im- 
provements, which are now in a state 
of forwardness, shall have been com- 
pleted. 

SiTGAR Tree, P. O. 20 ms. to the 
S. W. of Competition, 187 ms. S.W. 
by W. of R. and 280 S. S. W. of W. 
It contains 4 mercantile stores, 1 
Methodist house of Avorship, 1 com- 
mon school, and 1 Sunday school, 1 
manufactviring flour mill, and 1 black- 
smith shop. The lands in this 
neighborhood are generally good, ex- 
cept immediately on the public road. 
There are several small streams 
which pass through this part of the 
county and empty into Dan river. 

Watkins' Store, P. O. in the S. 
W. angle of the county, 192 ms. S. 
W. by W. of R. and 285 from W. 

Williams' Store, P. O. 152 ms. 
from R. and 242 from W. 



POWHATAN. 



Powhatan was created by the Legislature in 1777, and formed out of a 
part of Cumberland county. It is bounded on the N. by .Tames rivei', 
which separates it from Goochland — on the E. by Chesterfield — on the S. 
by the Appomattox river, which separates it from Amelia, and on the W. 
by Cumberland. It is situated about 37° 30' N. lat. and 1° long. W. of 
W. C, extending about 30 miles in length, and averaging about 14 in 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— POWHATAN, 263 

breadth, with an area of 280 sq. ms. The face of the county is level as a 
ttrritnry ; although undulating with small sinks and swells, or bottoms 
and hills running from the main ridge, which passes through the centre of 
the county E. and W. to the James and iVppomattox rivers. The James 
river waslies the whole extent of the northern frontier from W. to £. and 
the Appomattox the southern frontier in like manner and direction. The 
crocks arc numerous: those wliicli empty into James river beginning near 
the Cumberland line, on the N. W and proceeding E. to the Chesterfield 
line are, Muddy creek, which rises in Cumberland, runs in a meandering 
direction N. and empties into James river between Cumberland and Pow- 
hatan. ,Oa this creek there is a manufacturing mill, called Muddy creek 
mills near Carters vill?. Deep creek rises in Cumberland, runs N. E. re- 
ceiving the tributary waters of Little Deep creek, Indian Camp creek, 
Moore' s creek, Moslry' s and Horscpcn Branches, Swnnn''s creek, and Sa.Ilce's 
creek, all empty into James liver some 7 or 8 miles below the mouth of 
Muddy creek. On Bailee's creek are situated two grist mills. Jefferson 
creek rises in Powhatan, runs N. and empties into James river, at the town 
of Jefferson. Mokaivk creek, rises in Powhatan runs N. and empties into 
James river, one mile above Michaux's Ferry; on this creek is situated owe 
grist mill. Fine creek rises near Powhatan C. H. runs 8 or 10 miles N. 
E. and empties into James river. On this creek is situated the Fine creek 
manufacturing and grist mills. Jones'' creek rises in Powhatan, runs 12 
miles E. and N. E. and empties into James river. On this creek are situa- 
ted a manufacturing and grist mill, also another merchant mill running 
2 pair of burrs, to which is connected a grist and saw mill, with 1 general 
store. On this creek are also located a cotton factory and 2 other grist 
mills, with 1 saw mill. Burner's creek rises in Powhatan, runs 7 or 8 
miles N. E. and emptie.? into James river, near the line between Chester- 
field and Powhatan. 

Those in the southern part of the county beginning at the lower end 
and proceeding upwards or westwards are — Strift creek, which rises in 
Powhatan, runs S. E. through Chesterfield into Appomattox; on this 
creek in Powhatan are situated the Cedar Grove manufacturing and grist 
mills. Hurricane creek rises in Powhatan, runs S. and empties into 
Swift creek, 3 miles long. Skin Quarter creek rises in Powhatan, runs 8 
miles S. W. and empties into Appomattox. Butte nrood creek rises in Pow- 
hatan, runs 7 or 8 miles S. W and empties into Appomattox; on this creek 
Haskins' mill, near Genito, is situated. Gcnito creek rises in Powhatan, 
runs S. W. and empties into Appomattox — 3 miles long. Lower Fighting- 
creek rises near Rocky Oak meeting house, runs S. W. receiving Scott'' s 
creek and Hobsou^s creek, unites with Upper Fighting creek, and empties 
into Appomattox. Upper Fighting creek rises near the Buckingham road, 
runs S. E. receiving Tucker''s and B/unt^s creeks, unites with Lower 
Fighting creek, and empties into Appomattox. Between the mouth of 
this creek and the Cumberland line, there are many branches, and small 
creeks running through almo.st every plantation. 

There are two principal roads running through the county — the Buck- 
ingham road, on the high ridge between the two rivers, and the Manakin 
Town road, between the Buckingham road and James river, together with 
numerous cross roads. 

The soil of Powhatan is various both in cpiality and appearance. The 
old farms have been much cxhaused by long and injudicious cultivation, 



264 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— POWHATAN. 



but a revival of a geological spirit, with the use of clover and plaster, 
seems to authorise the prediction that in twenty years the land of this coun- 
ty will again become fertile. The James and Appomattox rivers bounding 
two sides of the county at full length, afibrd great quanties of rich low 
grounds, and thousands of little branches and creeks intersecting and 
variegating every portion of the county, render the soil quite productive 
generally. The principal crops are corn, oats, wheat and tobacco. The 
last two are the staple products. 

There are some coal mines in the lower end of this county. A pit has 
been for several years regularly and profitably managed by the judicious 
owner, Capt. Wm. Finney, in whose immediate neighborhood another 
vein of coal has been discovered on the land of Mr Edward Scott. Indi- 
cations of coal have also been discovered on the surface of the earth in 
many places in the lower end of the county. 

There are ten male schools now in operation in this county, under the 
superintendence of competent teachers for the instruction of youth in the 
ordinary branches of education. There are also two female schools under 
the management of judicious and able teachers. 

The Baptists, Methodists and Presbyterians, are the only regularly formed 
churches There are some Episcopalians, but no officiating minister of 
that denomination. The old Episcopal churches, Peterville and Manakin 
Town, have become free for the use of all denominations. There is also 
a church recently established in the lower end of the county called the 
Reformed Baptist, now composed of 12 members. There are also many 
Unitarians in the county, but no established church of that faith. 

Powhatan belongs to the seventh judicial circuit and fourth district. 
Population in 1820, 8,292 — 1830, 8,517 persons, of whom more than half 
were slaves and free blacks. Tax paid in 1833, $2752 46— in 1834 on 
lots, $45 58— on land, $1512 58—3049 slaves, $762 25—1791 horses, 
$107 46—3 studs, $100 00—86 coaches, $198 75—16 carryalls, $16 00. 
—89 gigs, $50 25. Total, $2792 87. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $106 64— in 1833, $45 36. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Ballsvillk, P. O. 48 ms. from R. 
and 147 from W. 

Flat Rock, P. O. in the eastern 
part of the county, 25 ms. W. of R. 
and 147 from W. 

Genito, p. V. 29 miles S. W. by 
W. from R. and 151 from W., situa- 
ted on the E. or left side of the Ap- 
pomattox river, in the southeastern 
part of the county, and 36 ms. from 
Petersburg. It contains 6 dwelling 
houses, 1 mercantile store, a tavern, 
blacksmith, and a tailor's shop. A 
permanent bridge is thrown across 
the Appomattox at this place, at 
which is situated a lar<ie manufactu-l 



ring flour mill. Population 25 per- 
sons; of whom 1 is a physician. 

Jefferson, P. V. is pleasantly 
situated on the south bank of James 
river, 35 ms. above R. 144 from W. 
and 7 ms. from the count// seat. It 
has a direct Avater communication 
with Richmond, being situated only 
12 ms. above the head of the James 
river canal. The elevation of this 
place afibrds the most beautiful pros- 
pect of the surrounding country, of 
any town or village on James river. 
From a farm half a mile below and 
in sight of Jefferson, may be seen the 
farms and residences of 8 wealthy 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 



265 



and extensive farmers in the county 
of Goochland, besides some four or 
five in the county of Powhatan, and 
from the same place there is a desi- 
rable prospect of James river, "both 
up and down. It is a place of con- 
siderable trade for its size. The ex- 
ports are principally wheat and to- 
bacco. They ship annually about 
40,000 bushels of wheat, and 250 
hhds. of tobacco. It contains besides 
a public ferry, 2 stores, ! manufactur- 
ing mill, 1 tailor shop, 2 shoemakers, 
and 1 saddler and harness maker, 
•The mail from Richmond arrives at 
this place 3 times a week. It has 
besides houses of deposite, 8 dwel- 
Hng houses; with a white population 
of 50 — and a population of 70 color- 
ed persons. 

SCOTTSVILLE, P. V. and seat 
f)f justice, 32 ms. W. of R. and 1 39 S. 
S.W. of W. in lat. 37°32' and long. 0° 
56' W. of W. C. This village con- 
tains, besides the Court House, Clerk's 
office and jail, 20 dwelling houses, 3 
miscellaneous stores, a tanyard, sad- 
dler, boot and shoe maker, 2 tailors, I 
blacksmith shop, and 3 taverns. 



County Courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, May, August and NovW. 

Judge Cloptox holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 8/A April and \st Octo- 
ber. 

Smithsville, p. V. 38 ms. W. of 
R. and 132 from W,, situated between 
two creeks — Deep creek on the W. 
and Sallee's creek on the E. It con- 
tains several dwelling houses, a 
house of public worship, (Presbyte- 
rian,) called ''Mount Cannel,'^ I 
country store, 1 house of entertain- 
ment, a plough maker, and black- 
smith shop; in the vicinity and on 
Sallee's creek, there is located a 
manufacturing flour mill, the pro- 
prietors of which have it in contem- 
plation to extend the navigation of 
the creek to James river. There are 
several benevolent societies organized 
m this vicinity. Population 30. 

Sublett's Tavern, P. O. in the 
eastern part of the county, 23 ms. S. 
W.<Df R. and 145 from W, 



PRINCE EDWARD.- 

Prince Edward was created by the legislature in 1753. and was form' 
ed out of a portion of Amelia Co. It is bounded S. E. by Lunenburg, S. 
and S. W. by Charlotte, W. by Campbell, N. W. and N. by Buckingham, 
N. E. by Cumberland and Amelia, and E. by Nottoway. Its length from 
E. to W. is 35 ms.; mean breadth 12 ms. and area 420 sq. ms. — Its mean 
lat. is 37° 12', and long, from W. C. 1° 30' W. The Appomattox river, 
separates this county from Buckingham and Cumberland. 

This county is well watered by numerous creeks, emptying into the Ap- 
pomattox river. They come in the following order, viz : Vaitghan's, and 
Harris' creeks: Biifaloe — This creek was examined a few years ago, and it 
was contemplated to make it navigable for boats, in conjunction with the lit- 
tle Roanoke, in Charlotte. The" Engineer made an unfavorable report. 
Briery, Bwsh and Saniif creeks. These creeks all run nearly parallel. 
Briery is a sluggish stream, Buffaloe and Bush swift. The Appomattox 
is a fine stream, narrow but very deep. 

The soil in this county is very good. The gray land predominates. It 
is of a sandy texture, and well adapted to corn and tobacco. Much of the 
land presents the ■•^amc appearance a.s the state does generally. It has been 
34 



256 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 

exhausted by continual culture, without any regard to system. A large 
quantity of it is unenclosed. The pine in this county, as in most parts of the 
state, takes possession of the worn out land, and renders much aid in restor- 
ing the lands. 

Prince Edward is rich in minerals and fosils. In the last few years 
there have been many developements of its mineral wealth. Numerous 
beds of calcarious rock or marl, have been discovered ; and from indications, 
it is probable that it may be found in large quantities. 

Near Farmville, and in other parts of the county there are very strong 
indications, that coal of the finest quality may be obtained. It may be found 
by digging a little Avay, and it is to be regretted, that regular atttmpts have 
not been made to explore these mines of wealth. If the navigation of the 
Appomattox is improved, at no distant day, coal may be a source ol much 
nvealth to this county. 

Copper ore has been found in various parts of the county very pure. 
There are some indications of gold, but not very strong. 

There is one solitary mountain in this county, "Leigh's mountain." It 
is an axact cone, and adds something to the scenery. It is between Bush 
and Sandy rivers. 

Farmville, is a town of considerable commercial importance. It is situated 
«t the head of batteaux navigation on the Appomattox: however, boats can 
get up much higher. This is the fourth tobacco market in Virginia, and 
in point of the quality of its tobaacco, it is the first. More than half a mil- 
lion of dollarc are annually paid here for tobacco. The trade of Farmville 
is drawn Irom Halifax, Lunenburg, Charlotte, Nottoway and a part of Camp- 
bell. 

Hampden Sydney College was founded in 1774 for the purpose of cher- 
ishing those ideas of civil and religious liberty which were beginning at 
that time to be diffused. It was chartered in 1783 and received its present 
name from those two martyrs to liberty, J. Hampden and A. Sydney. It 
was established and has ever been supported by the private munificence of 
public spirited individuals. It has an elevated and pleasant situation, 1 
mile from the C. H. and 80 ms. S. W. of Richmond. The heahhiness of 
its situation is well known, there having been but one death among the stu- 
dents since its foundation. The annual income of the funds of the Institu- 
tion has not, until recently exceeded $600; but within the last 5 years, it 
has received a contribution of $30,000, of which $20,000 have been set 
apart for a permanent fund. The only assistance it has ever received from 
the state was 2 small tracts of escheated lands, which were of very little va- 
lue. Although the Institution has had to encounter many difficulties for 
Avant of funds, yet it has generally been in successful operation and has ed- 
ucated upwards of 2,000 young men ; many of whom have been of eminent 
usefulness, and some of great abilities. More instructors have emanated 
from this Institution than from any other in the southern country. Connect- 
ed with the College is a Literary and Philosophical Society, and an Insti- 
tute of Education. There are also several societies among the students, 
which are of great aisistance to them in the prosecution of their studies. 
The legislative government of the College is vested in 27 trustees who fill 
UP vacancies in their own body. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARD. 267 

The Presidents of Hampden Sidney have been 

Rev. S. S. Smith, from 1774 to 1779.|Rev. A. Alexander, D. D. 1777, to 1806. 
Rev. J. B. Smith, from 1779, to 1789. |Rev. M. Hoge, D. D. 1807, to 1820. 
Prcs. pro. tcm. 1789, to 1797. [.T. P. Cushing A. M. 1821. 

Besides the President there are Professorships of Chemistry, Natural 
Philosophy, Mathematics, and Language. The number of students ior the 
last i5 years has averaged about 100. The number of matriculates this 
year is 69. It has a valuable and extensive Chemical and Philosophical 
Apparatus and a library of about 5,000 vols. 

The buildings connected with College are the College edifice, 190 ft. by 
50, 4 stories high and containing 48 rooms for student's, a chape , a library 
and 3 other public rooms ; a President's house and a steward's establish- 
ment — all of brick, and 2 other houses for Professors. Annual expenses — 
for tuition, board, room rent, washing, $150. 

Commencement is on the 4th Wednesday in September. Vacations — 
1st. the month of October; 2d. the month of May. 

The Union Theological Seminary is located in Prince Edward Co. in 
tlie vicinity of the C. H. and near Hampden Sydney College. The Institu- 
tion had its origin in eflforts made by the presbytery of Hanover, and the 
Synod of Virginia, as early as 1812, to give to their candidates for the min- 
istry a more complete theological education. It did not however go into 
operation in a regular form until the year 1824. 

The Seminary is under the controul of a board of 24 directors cho.sen 
once in 4 years by the Synods of Virginia and North Carolina. 

Its funds are derived from the free contribution of Presbyterians in va- 
rious part.s of the country, and amount to nearly enough to provide for the 
support of 3 Professors. 

Its buildings are of brick and consist of 2 Professor's dwellings, and a 
central edifice, 196 ft. long and 4 stories high, containing a chapel, library, 
lecture rooms, museum, depository, dining hall, Tooms for 100 students, and 
for the family of a steward. The library is small, containing only 3,000 
vols, but is highly valuable from the care employed in its selection. 

Its officers are the Professors of the Institution, namely, those of Chris- 
tian Theology, of Ecclesiastical History and Polity, of Orientp.1 Literature 
and such others as may be chosen, These constitute a faculty for internal 
government, of which the Professor of Christian Theology is ex-officio 
chairman. 

Its students are only those who design to become ministers of the gospel, 
Any such person can become a member of the Institution, who is a mem- 
ber of any Christian church, who sustains before the faculty a satisfactory 
exarain.ation on personal experience of religion, who has graduated at some 
reputable College, or gained in some other way a liberal education. 

The course of study in the In.stitution embraces the Hebrew and ChaU 
dee languages, Jewish Archiology, Sacred Geography, Biblical Criticism, 
Biblical Literature, Biblical Interpretation, Theory and Practice, Biblical 
History, Ecclesiastical History and Polity, Church Government, Natural 
Theology, Evidences of Revelation, Canon Christian Theology, Confes- 
sion of Faith, Pastoral Theology, and the Composition and Delivery of Ser- 
mons. 



268 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE EDWARU 



Since 1824, 127 students have belonged to the Institution, and its chairs 
have been filled as follows: — 

Theology— Sohn H. Rice, D. D. inaugurated 1824,— died 1831. 

Oriental Lit — Hiram P. Goodrich, inaugurated 1828. 

Theology — George A. Baster, inaug. 1832. 

Church History — Vacant. 

Assistant — Elisha Ballantine. 

The people of this county are generally intelligent and well informed. 
The Presbyterian denomination are more numerous than in any other Co. 
in the state. Population in 1820, 12,587— in 1830, 14,109, or'55 to tlie 
sq. m. giving an increase of 1,530 in 10 yrs; of the last amount there were 
whites, 5,514, and 8,593 blacks, giving an increaseof 3,079 over the free popu- 
lation: many of which are free blacks and mulattoes. The free negroes in this 
county are more numerous than in any other county in the state. Prince 
Edward belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 
1833, $3,844 73— in 1834, on lots, $1 18 28— land, 1,751 76— 4831 slaves, 
$1,207 75—2,635 horses, 8161 10—6 studs, $102 00—122 coaches, 
$336 60—44 carryalls, $49 40—144 gigs, $88 00. Total, $3,814 89. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $126 45— in 1833, $207 33. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BuRKEsviLLE, P. O. in the south- 
ern part of the county^ 66 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 188 from W. 

Carter's Store, P. O. in the S. 
W. part of the coimty, 81 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 172 ms. from W. 

Farmvii.le, P. V. 68 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 159 from W., situ- 
ated on the N. border of the county, 
near the head of batteaux navigation, 
and on the S. side of Appomattox ri- 
ver. This village was incorporated 
in 1832, with 7 trustees, having pow- 
er to tax, &c. It contains 2 tobacco 
warehouses, at which are inspected 
annually from 4,000 to 4,500 hogs- 
heads; this inspection affords a larger 
proportion of fine French tobacco, 
than any other in the state. There 
are 5 tobacco factories, giving em- 
ployment to 250 hands, 10 mercantile 
stores, 2 houses of public worship, (1 
Presbyterian and 1 Methodist,) 2 ta- 
verns, 1 printing office, 1 female 
school, 1 cabinet maker, 2 smith shops, 
1 tailor, 1 wheelwright, 1 boot and 
shoe factory, 1 saddler, 1 tan yard, 2 
confectioners, and 2 milliners and 
mantua makers. The navigation of 
the river from this place to Petersburg 



is good at all seasons of the year, and 
gives employment to about 40 bat- 
teaux, with 3 men in each, carrying 
from 5 to 7 tons. Farmville is grow- 
ing in importance and trade. It is at 
the present time one of the finest towns 
in proportion to its size and commerce 
in Virginia. Population 800 persons ; 
of whom 2 are physicians. 

Hermitage, P. O. 91 ms. S. W. 
by V^^ of R. and 182 ms, from W., 
situated in the western part of the Co. 
on a considerable eminence which 
commands a beautiful view, at the in- 
tersection of the roads leading from 
Charlottesville, to the S. and from 
Petersburg to Lynchburg. It has 
Vaughan's creek on the S., and a mill 
creek on the N. side. It contains 
several dwelling houses, and 1 mer- 
cantile store, (fcc. The lands in the 
neighborhood, are of a light, gray, 
sandy soil, producing wheat, corn, 
oats and tobacco tolerable well. 

Jamestown, P. V. 60 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 167 from W., situ- 
ated in the N. E. angle of the county 
on the S. side of Appomattox river, 8 
ms. below^ Farmville, 3 ms. below the 
dividing line of Prince Edward and 



EASTERN VIRGINIA—PRINCE GEORGE 



269 



Amelia, and 60 ms. from Petersburg 
and Lj-nchbiirg. This village was 
laid oft' in 1796 inlo 8 squares, each 
containing Ah acre lots. The mer- 
cantile business of this place was at 
one time very flourishing; the inspec- 
tion of tobacco was carried on to a 
limited extent for several years, but 
has been discontinued; since which 
time the village has ceased to flourish. 
Ir contains at this time, several dwel- 
ling houses, 1 house of public wor- 
ship, free for all denominations, 2 mis- 
cellaneous stores, and 1 house of en- 
tertainment. The surrounding coun 
try, is healthy, — the land much bro- 
ken, and the soil peculiarly adapted 
to the growth of line tobacco, which 
Avith wheat constitutes the staple. 

Marble Hill, P. O. 83 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 174 ms. from W. 

Merriman's Shop, P. O. 94 
ms. from R. and 185 ms. from W. 

Moor's Ordinary, 90 ms. S. W. 
by W. of R. and 181 ms. from W. 

PRINCE EDWARD C. H. P. 
V. 75 ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 166 
ms. from W. This village contains 
21 dwelling houses, besides the usual 
county buildings, and about the same 
number of public and private offices: 
a large and handsome Presbyterian 
church built ot brick, beautifully situ- 
ated about a quarter of a mile from the 
village, 1 lanyard, 1 coach manufac- 
tory, and A'arious other mechanics. 
There are 2 flourishing academies ; 
the female seminary, deserves the 
high reputation which it enjoys, — 
The present number of pupils is about 
80. The course of studies, requires 



3 years to complete it; in addition to 
the instruction aflbrded by the 2 prin- 
Icipals and their 5 assi-stants, the pu- 
Ipils have the advantage of instruction 
jin science, andthe.languages from the 
Professors of Hampden Sydney Col- 
lege, — the other institution alluded to 
[is ibr males, and prepares pupils to 
enter the Colleges with credit : the 
annual number is between 40 and 50. 

County Courts arc held on the 3rd 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vetnber. 

Judge Leigh holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 2(j(h of April and Septem- 
ber. 

Prospect, P. O. 80 ms. S. S. W. 
of R. and 171 ms. from W. 

Sandy River Church, P, O. in 
the S. E. part of the county, 79 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 170 ms. from 
W. This place takes its name from 
a small tributary of the Appomattox. 
It was built in the year 1768 by the 
church of England. Since the revo- 
lution, it has been kept up by the citi- 
zens of the neighborhood of all de- 
nominations. In the immediate vi- 
cinity of the church, there is a house 
of entertainment, a mercantile store, 
several mechanics, and 1 physician. 
The land of the surrounding country 
is generally good ; the principal pro- 
duct is tobacco; and the neighborhood 
is wealthy. 

Walker's Church, P. O. in the 
southern part of the county, 88 ms. 
S. W. by W. of R. and 177 from W. 



PRINCE GEORGE. 

Prince George was created by the Legislature in 1702, and formed 
from a part of Charles City Co. It is bounded on the N. by the Appomattox 
which separates it from Chesterfield, and James river which separates it 
from Charles City, — E. by Surry, — S. by Sussex, — and W. by Dinwiddie. 
Its length from E. to AV. is 21 ms. breadth 12, and area 312 sq. miles. It 
extends in lat. from 37^ to 37"= 15' N. and in lono-- from 0=^ 5' E. of W. C. 



270 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE GEORGE. 



to 0^ 25' W. of W. C Very little of this county slopes towards it3 
border near the Appomattox and James, by far the greater portion slopes 
S. E. towards Blaekwater river, the sources of which lie in this county. 
Population in 1820, 8,030— in 1830, 8,367. This county belongs to the 
2nd judicial circuit, and 1st district. Tax paid in 1833, §1,868 85 — 
in 1834, on lots, $S0 79— on land, $916 .53—2,478 slaves, $619 SO- 
LI 77 horses, $70 74—3 studs, 846 00—49 coaches, 8133 80—20 carry- 
alls, $20 00— 96 gigs, 854 15~Total, 81,941 49. Expended in educat- 
ing poor children in 1832, $137 SO— in 1833, 8205 16. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



CITY POINT, Fort and Post 
Village, on the right shore of 
James river, at the junction of the 
James and Appomattox, in the N. W. 
part of the county, 12 ms. below Pe- 
tersburg, 34 ms. S. E. of R. and 156 
ms. from W. City Point of itself, is 
a very inconsiderable village, being a 
place of no trade, except in a small 
retail way. It is however a conside- 
rable port, as an appendage of the 
towns of Petersburg and Richmond.' 
At City Point there are 4 or 5) 
wharves, projecting a short distance | 
into the river, within 30 yards of 
which is a sufficient depth of water 
to swim the largest ship that ever] 
floated. "Not only is a large foreign \ 
shipping bu.siness done here, but the! 
white sails of domestic commerce,; 
daily gladden the eye, as it passe.?, 
and repasses this port, freighted in its^ 
progress upw'ards with the wealth 
and productions, and exports of every] 
clime, while its return carries to eve- 1 
ry port of our happy Union, the pro-' 
duce of our soil and of our mines." 
Exclusive of the ordinary shipping,; 
there are steam, freight, tow and pas-S 
.sagcboats, which make this a stoppingj 
place in their passage up and down> 
the river. In short City Point,' 
though small in itself is a considera-; 
ble out port to the City of Richmond, 
and the town of PeterslDurg, and when 
the Petersburg Rail road, and the 
James and Kanawha improvement 
shall be in full operation, it is more 
than probable that this little village, 
will present an appeararu'c that will 



reflect credit, on the enterprize of Vir- 
ginia capitalists and insure to the Old 
Dominion that commercial impor- 
tance to which she is so justly entit- 
led, and which will be so beneficial to 
every class of the community; but 
more especially to the farmers, whose 
products, will meet a ready sale, at 
such prices, as cannot fail to reward 
(heir industry. City Point, contains 
about 25 houses, 3 taverns, 3 groce- 
ries, a school and hospital. 

Prince George is famed for the 
manufacture of her hollow icare, i. e. 
flour barrels,&c , her marshes for soras 
and wild ducks, 6lc. and her rivers, 
creeks and mill ponds for fine chub, 
perch, sturgeon, rock fish, shad, &.c. 
Population between 90 and 100 per- 
sons; of whom 1 is a physician. 

PRINCE GEORGEC. H. is sit- 
uated near the centre of the county. 

Couniy Courts are held on the 2i 
Tuesday in every month : — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge May, holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 25 //i of May and October. 

Templeton, p. O. 36 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 158 ms. from W., situated 
immediately, on the post road, which 
leads from Petersburg, to Jerusalem, 
in Southampton Co. 15 ms. from the 
former, and 35 ms. from the latter. 
There is an ordinary kept here which 
has been in existence for 30 years. 
The situation is high and salubrious, 
remote from any water course, or 
niar.^liv land 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PllINCESS ANNE. 



271 



PRINCESS ANNE. 

Princess Anne was created by the legislature in 1691, and formed from 
a portion of lower Norfolk county. It is bounded on the N. by the Ches- 
apeak, E. by the Atlantic, S. by Currituck Co. N. Carolina, and W. by 
Norfolk county. Its leng^th from S. to N. is 30 ms. ; mean breadth 12, and 
area 360 square miles. The parallel of N. lat. 36"^ 45' and long. 1° E. ol" 
W. C. intersect near the centre of the county. The northern part of this 
county, slopes N. and pours its waters into Lyn Haven bay, — the western 
part, into the eastern branch of Elizabeth river, — the southern part into 
Back Bay, and Currituck Sound. 

Population in 1810, 9,498,-1820, 8,730— in 1830, 9,102. This coun- 
ty belongs to the first judicial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$1846 85— in 1834 on lots* $16 63— on land, $1 1 15 45—1744 slaves, 
$436 00— 1757 horses, $105 42— 6 stud.s, $83 00— 17 coaches, $38 25— 
16 carryalls, $17 25—154 gigs, $95 50. Total, $1907 50. Expended 
in educating poor children in 1832, $267 94 — in 1838, $115 63. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Kempsville, p. V. 10 ms. S. E. 
by E. of Norfolk, 124 from R. and 
227 from W, situated on the eastern 
branch of Elizabeth river, at the head 
of tide water. It contains 27 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 miscellaneous store, 
and several groceries, 1 Baptist house 
of worship, and 1 common school. 
The mechanics are a tanner and cur- 
rier, several carpenters, wheelwrights, 
blacksmiths, «fcc. Large quantities 
of lumber are sent in rafts and light- 
ers, from this place to Norfolk ; also 
much navy-timber, staves, wood, &c. 
Population 200 persons; of whom 3 
are physicians. 

London Bridge, P. O. in the 
northeastern part of the county, 15 
ms, N. E. of Norfolk, 8 S. W. of 
Cape Henry, 130 from R. and 233 
from W. 



PRINCESS ANNE C. H. P. V. 
137 ms. from R. and 240 Irom W. in 
lat. 36° 44, N. and long 0° 57' E. of 
W. C. It contains, besides the usual 
county buildings, 17 dwelling houses,^ 
2 Methodist houses of public Avor- 
ship, 2 elementary schools, 1 miscel- 
laneous store, several carpenters, and 
various other mechanics. The prin- 
cipal pursuit of the inhabitants is 
farming. Population 150 persons; 
of whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are 
physicians. 

Count if Courts are held on the 
1st Motulay in every month. Quar- 
terly in March, June, Avgust and 
Novemher. 

Jr»GE Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
[ry on the 25 /A May and 22(^ Sep- 
\tcmber. 



PRINCE \¥IL.L-IAM. 

Prince Willi.vm was established by the Legislature in 1730, and 
formed from a portion of Stafiford and King George counties. It is bound- 
ed N. and N. E. by Bull Run, and Occoquan river, which separate it from 
Loudoun and Fairfax, — E. by the Potomac, separating it from Charles 
county Maryland, — S. by Staflord, — S. W. and W. by Fauquier. Its mean 
length is 30^ miles, mean breadth 12; and its area 370 square miles, it 



47j| EASTERN ViRGIMA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 

extends in lat. from 38° 30' to 38° 55' N. and in long, from 0° 15' to 0° 
45' W. of W. C. 

Occoquan rioer rises in Loudoun, Fairfax, and Fauquier counties, 
traverses and drains the upper part of Prince William. It is an impor- 
tant tributary of the Potomac, and falls into that river 25 ms. below W. C 
and nearly opposite to Indian Point. Its principal branches are Bull Run, 
Broad Run and Cedar Run. Bull Rmi from its source to its mouth, is 
the dividing line between the counties of Fairfax and Prince William. It 
joins the Occoquan about 7 miles above the town of Occoquan, and 14 
miles from the Potomac river. Broad Ru?i has its source in Fauquier 
county, and after passing through the chain of the Bull Run mountain, at 
the pass of Thoroughfare, and by the town of Buckland, joins the Cedar 
Run about a mile below Brentsville, the coiinty town of Prince William! 
Cedar Run rises in Fauquier county, and passing near Warrenton, 
joins Broad Run near Brentsville. These streams, and mdeed many of 
their branches, afford fine seats for manufacturing establishments. At the 
junction of Broad and Cedar, the river receives the name of Occoquan. 
Its general direction towards the Potomac is S. E. — and its length about 
25 ms. At 18 ms. from the junction it meets the tides at the town of Oc- 
coquan. Here it reaches the hills, which are the boundary of the Poto- 
mac valley, and down them the river is precipitated about 72 feet, in the 
distance of en? and a half miles. In these hills is the chain of rocks 
which crosses all the rivers of Lower Virginia at the head of tide water. 
The action of the water in the course of ages, has washed the earth from 
the channel, and the rocks lie in its bed in every rude variety of position. 
The banks of the river here present every where jutting rocks, and some- 
times great precipices. The pine finds sustenance among the crevices 
and gives a relief and a grace to scenery that would otherwise be savage. 
Immediately below the town of Occoquan the banks subside into a plain; 
and at two miles, the ancient town of Colchester is passed. Five miles 
below Colchester a junction is eflected with the Potomac, between High 
and Freestone Points. At its mouth the Occoquan is five miles wide; at 
the head of the tide, it is about 75 yards; here however it is hemmed in 
by the hills, and as the volume of its waters is very great., in floods it is 
very deep, (viz. from 12 to 20 feet.) Below the town of Colchester it 
suddenly widens to two or three miles. The earth and rubbish brought 
down by the floods are deposited, and at such times the navigation is ob- 
structed for vessels drawing more than 5 feet water. There is however 
nothing which opposes serious obstacles to clearing the bar, whenever the 
wants of the people inhabiting the country drained by its waters shall re- 
quire it. The subject has already attracted some attention, and the navi- 
gation of the river and its important branch Cedar run, which it has been 
proposed to effect, above the tide by the lock and dam system, has been 
the occasion of somC proceedings in the legislature. 

Population in 1810, 1 1,31 1 — 1820, 9,419--] 830, 9,320. Prince Wil- 
liam belongs to the sixth judicial circuit and third district. Tax paid in 
1833, $2697 07— in 1834 on lot.s, Sl83 15— on land, 1772 65—1737 
slaves, $434 25—2383 horses, $142 98—5 studs, $48 00—27 coaches, 
$59 50—15 carryalls, $15 00—16 gigs, $12 95. Total, $26GS 48. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $500 18 — in 1S33, $565 32. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA-PRINCE WILLIAM. 



273 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BRENTSVILLE, P. V. and seat 
of jits tic e, 101 ins. from R. and 48 
S. W. of W.— The Court House, 
clerk's office and jail are handsomely 
situated on the main street, in a pub-, 
lie square of three acres. Besides' 
them, the village contains 19 dvvel-i 
ling houses, 3 miscellaneous stores 2 1 
handsome taverns, built of brick and* 
stuccoed, 1 house of entertainment, 1 \ 
house of public worship, free for all 
denominations, — a bible society, a 
Sunday school, a temperance and a 
tract society, which have been of con- 
siderable utility for the last 5 or 6: 
years. There is in the vicinity a 
common school in which the rudi-j 
ments of English education are taught. 
Brentsville is of recent establish- 
ment, having been located around the! 
site of the new court house in 1822, i 
at which time it was completed, and! 
the courts removed from Dumfries.! 
It has progressed with its improve- 1 
ments perhaps more rapidly than hasj 
been observable with other county 
towns within the same period after 
their establishment, though it may be 
considered nearly stationary for the' 
present. The wasteful tenure of the 
Bristoe estate, the property of the 
commonwealth, in the midst of which | 
it is located, has in a manner cut itj 
off from the benefits of a thriving j 
neighborhood. This tract, contain- 
ing near 7000 acres and naturally! 
the best land in this section, has been* 
ravaged of all its timber, and for the[ 
most part "ploughed down to be bar-! 
ren," by an unmerciful course ofi 
cultivation, under a numerous tenan-l 
try, for upward.-s of 70 years. Most! 
of the lots around the place have be- 
come freed from their lease, by the 
direliction of the tenants, who have 
left them an immense common: but 
by an act of Assembly of 1333-4, 
authorising the sale of this estate on 
such terms a.s the president and di- 
rectors of the Literary Fund may di- 
35 



rect, there is no doubt but the desert 
will soon be made to blossom under 
the labors of individual enterprise, 
and Brentsville will take a new .start 
towards prosperity. Situated at the 
head of Occoquan river, which could 
easily be made navigable for boats at 
a cheap rate, and laying near two 
large runs, (Broad and Cedar,) which 
here form the Occoquan. Brents- 
ville is 14 miles from Dumfries, 18 
from Occoquan mills, and equidistant 
33 ms. from Fredericksburg and 
Alexandria, 12 from Hay Market, 
and 20 from Warrenton. It is within 
9 or 10 ms. of the Warrenton and 
Alexandria turnpike. Population 
130 persons, of whom 3 are attorneys 
and 3 regular physicians. The 
place is healthy and has a beautiful 
prospect of the Bull Run and Watery 
range of mountains, and the more 
distant Blue Ridge. 

Coiaily Courts are held on the \st 
Monday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, Jione, August and 
Nocember. 

Judge Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \st of May, a?id October. 

BucKLAND, P. V. in the north- 
western part of the county, 5 ms. S. 
W. of Hay Market, 116 from R. and 
42 from W. This village has an 
elevated and romantic situation on 
Broad Run. a never failing stream, 
on which two extensive flour manu- 
facturing mills are situated, — the one 
in the town and the other on its edge. 
A turnpike runs through the village 
which extends 35 ms. below to Alex- 
dria, and 8 ins. above to Warrenton. 
This village and its suburbs contains 
22 dwelling houses, i general store, 
1 large and extensive distillery, I 
apothecary shop, 1 house of public 
worship free for all denominations, 
and 2 houses of entertainment. The 
mechanics are, 1 tanner and cur- 
rier, 1 wagon maker, 1 boot and yhoe 



i9<Xi 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILUAM 



manufacturer, 1 cooper, 1 hatter, 1 
millwright, 1 blacksmith, 1 tailor and 
saddler. Buckland is an incorpora 
ted town, and for beauty of situation 
and circumjacent scenery is perhaps 
not to be surpassed by any other in 
the county. There is one well or- 
ganized Sunday school, and 1 com- 
mon school. Population 1 30 whites; 
of whom 1 is a physician; and 50 
blacks. 

- Dumfries, P. V. 33 ms. S. S. W. 
of W. and 89 from R., situated on 
Q.uantico creek, near the Potomac 
river. It contains 80 dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, a Baptist and a 
Methodist house of worship, 1 school 
house, 2 taverns, 1 manufacturing 
flour mill 1 woollen manufactory, 1 
temperance society, a tanyard, 2 sad- 
dlers, 5 house carpenters, and 2 black- 
smith shops. During the freeze in 
the winter when the steam boat be- 
tween the city of Washington and 
Potomac creek is obstructed by ice, 
the great northern and southern mail 
from W^. C. to New Orleans, is car- 
ried through this toAvn. The road in 
its neighborhood between Fredericks- 
burg and Alexandria, is in a worse 
condition than perhaps any in the 
middle States, so utterly impassable! 
at times that the mail cannot travel.} 
This road being the principal source j 
of the irregularities of the mail at{ 
the south, a canal was undertaken,! 
and about three-eighths of a mile! 
completed, but the whole scheme 
failed for the want of the proper di- 
rection of the funds. The mouth of 
Q,uantico, 2^ miles from Dumfries, is 
the best winter harbor on the Poto- 
mac. The river seldom freezes low-1 
er than that point. j 

Dumfries is one of the oldest towns i 
in the United States, and once could 
boast of much commerce, but owing 
to a variety of circumstances, like 
many old settlements, it is now m a| 
great measure abandoned, and many] 
of its excellent dwellings are in ai 
state ol rapid decay. Population 



500 persons; of Avhom 1 is an attor- 
ney and 2 are regular physicians. 

Hay Market, P. O. situated in 
the northern part of the county on 
the head of Occoquan creek, 120 ms. 
from R. and 43 from W. 

Liberia, P. V. 112 ms. from R. 
and 33 S. W. of W. C. It contains 
a store, ware house and blacksmith 
shop, and a little distance from the^^? 
under the same name, 7 other builcT- 
ings. This place was established in 
1825, and the post-office in 1829. It 
is 7 ms. distant from Brentsville, in a 
N. E. direction. A mail goes once 
a week from this place to Centreville 
5 ms. N. of it, at Avhich place it inter- 
sects the S. W. mail from W. C. 
The trade of the place is in dry 
goods and groceries, and the pur- 
chase of country produce. The 
country around is thickly settled, and 
the inhabitants are distinguished for 
their moral deportment. The land 
of the surrounding country was of 
universally good quality, but has been 
much abused by a system of miserar 
ble cultivation; it is yet susceptible of 
a high degree of improvement, by 
the use of clover and gypsum, of 
which many farmers have commenced 
the use. 

OccoquAN, P. V. 23 ms. S. W. of 
W. and 99 from R., situated in the 
N. E. part of the county on the south 
side of Occoquan river. It was es- 
tablished by act of Assembly in the 
year 1804. The site on which this 
town is situated is extremely rugged 
and ill-suited for building. The 
town is regularly laid out, the streets 
generally cross each other at right 
angles. It contains about 50 dwel- 
ling houses, several mercantile stores, 
and various mechanics, — a cotton 
manufactory in complete operation, 
and one of the first established in the 
State, now running 1000 spindles, 1 
extensive manufacturing flour mill, 
grinding in the ordinary season 150 
barrels per day, — with the necessary 
appendages of grist, saAv, and plaster 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 



276 



mills. A handsome and permanent 
bridge is erected across the river at 
this place; over the bridge and thro' 
the town runs the great mail route 
from Washington to the south. This 
village is in a flourishing condition, 
and with confidence looks forward to 
further improvement. The principal 
trade o{ the town is with the counties 
hi' Fairfax, Loudoun, Fauquier, and 
Stafford. The Occoquan at this 
place has a fall of 72 feet in H ms. 
affording excellent sites for manufac- 
tories. This is the market for many 
of the most important shad and her- 
ring fisheries on the Potomac. The 
scenery at and near Occoquan has 
frequently been the theme of praise. 
The traveller moving along the plains 
of lovv'er Virginia, his eye accustom- 
ed to the tame prospect of the alluvial 
country, suddenly finds himself in a 
ravine, descending a hill, the precipi- 
tous ridges of which inspire him 
with terror. Should curiosity prompt 
him to tarry the rest of the day amidst 
tfiis wild scene, the sacrifice will be 
amply repaid. — The botany of this 
neighborhood is very rich ; here are 
in close proximity plants of the 



the same mountain. Upon this 
stream there are 2 manufacturing 
flour mills, running 3 pair of buhrs, 
and which jointly manufacture from 
20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat annu- 
ally; the water of these mills has a 
fall of from 22 to 24 feet in the dis- 
tance of half a mile. About 600 
yards below the Thoro'ighfare, there 
is an advantageous position for a 
manufactory, with a fall of water of 
22 feet. At this place are located 12 
dwelling houses, and I mercantile 
store. Baoad Run is composed of 
two streams which unite a short dis- 
tance above the mountain, each hav- 
ing pursued their respective courses 
through a rich and mountainous re- 
gion for many miles ; at the base of 
the mountain they unite, and rush to- 
gether with great velocity over a 
rocky bed: bearing a striking resem- 
blance to the scene presented by the 
mountains, rivers, &c., at Harper's 
Ferry, on a smaller scale. 

The land lying immediately above 
the mountains is rich, and contams a 
dense population, bearing a strong 
evidence that it was once inundated, 



from a like cause as at Harper's Fer- 
mountain and of the marshes. Theiry. The western side of the moun- 
mosses are numerous and beautiful, tain presents an abrupt precipice of 



In t"he marshes, near the mouth of 
the river, are many interesting plants. 



granite rock, while the trees grow to 
the summit. On the east in the gap 



In the river in this vicinity there is ajof the mountain, the rocks lie scat- 
quarrj'- of valuable whetstones, a bank terred in wild confusion, evidently 
impregnated with alum, and a cave thrown out by some great concussion 
which has never been satisfactorily' of nature. Near the gap is a spring 
explored. issuing from under a great rock, of 

Thoroughfare, P. V. 47 ms. S. the purest and best water, which is 
W. of W. and 124 from R., situated I not increased or diminished in any 
near the western boundary of the i season. It stands on the roadside, 
count^^ 9 ms. N. E. of Warrenton ; i and is by travellers regarded as the 
with a turnpike to Alexandria 36J" Diamond Spring, in Palestine." 
ms. distant. It lies immediately un-j There are some indications of coal 
der the Bull Run mountain, Avhichjand iron, but neither has as yet been 
runs N. and S. and takes its name! discovered. The mountains on the 
from a small stream which passes east side present a most romantic 
through it. About 3 miles N. of this land beautiful view of the rapid and 
place Broad Run, one of the best i roaring current winding its way 
streams in this section of country for' through a fertile valley, 
size and constancy, passe.'j thronsfh 



g7« EASTERN VIRGINIA— RAPPAHANNOCK. 

RAPPAHANNOCK. 

Rapfauannock was created by the Legislature in 1831, and formed 
out of a portion of Culpeper county. It is bounded on the N. by the North 
Fork of the Rappahannock river, Avhich separates it from Fauquier, — E. 
by Culpeper, — S. by Madison, — and W. by the Blue Ridge, which sepa- 
rates it from Shenandoah. It extends in lat. from about 38° 3' to 38° 22' 
N. and in long, from about 0° 5' to 1° 15' W. of W. C. Its precise di- 
mensions in miles, Ave are unacquainted with. Its population also, being 
included with that of Culpeper at the last census, is unknown. ■ - ..-.- 

Rappahannock belongs to the 11th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, ^1851 06— in 1834, on lots, S46 72— on land, $1096 83— 
1858 slaves, S464 50—2743 horses, $164 58—10 studs, $81 00—13 
coaches, $33 00—6 carryalls, $6 00—9 gigs, $5 50. Total, $1898 13. 
No report from school commissioners, 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Flint Hill, P. O. 128 ms. from 
R. and 91 S. W. of W. This vil- 
lage contains 26 dwelling houses, 4 
mercantile stores, 2 I'. verns, I manu- 
facturing flour mill 1 house of pub- 
lic worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, with va- 
rious other mechanics. Population 
140 persons; of whom I is an attor- 
ney, and 2 practisini. physicians. 

Gaines' Cross Roads, P. O. 87 
ms. S. W. of W. and 124 N. N. W. 
of R. It contains 9 dwelling houses, 
1 general store, 1 tailor, and 1 black- 
smith shop, and I Baptist house of 
worship. The surrounding country 
is fertile, well cultivated and densely 
settled. 

Newby'.s Cross Road.s, P. O. 109 
ms. from R. and 70 N. W. by VV. of 
W. It contains several dwelling 
houses, and 2 mercantile stores. 
Population 30. There are within 
the circumferenc' of 6 miles te7i 
country and flour manufacturing 
mills, several tanyards, &c. The 
countrv around is thickly settled and 
fertile, producing well all the com- 
mon staples of the country. 

Sandy Hook, P. O. 134 ms. from 
R. and 85 from W., situated 3 ms. S. 
of Chester Gap, and one-fourth of a 
mile N. of Flint Hill in Wakefield 
Manor, on the road loadinp; from 



\Washi7igio7i, the se.at of justice, to 
Front Royal, in Frederick county, 9 
ms. from the former and 10 from the 
latter. The land adjoining Sandy 
Hook is fertile and productive, about 
8000 acres of it is in the possession 
of Bazil Gordon, of Falmouth, Va. 
Sandy Hook has 4 dwelling hoiises, 
1 mercantile store, 1 blacksmith, 1 
wheelwright, and I boot and shoe 
maker. Population 33: of whom 1 
is a physician. 

Slate Mills, P. O. 109 ms. from 
R. and 91 S. W. of W. This vil- 
lage contain.^ 4 dwelling houses, 1 
gent ral store, 1 manufacturing flour 
mill, I grist and saw mill, 2 black- 
smitli;s, a wheelwright, and a cooper 
shop. 

WASHINGTON, P. V. and scat 
\of justice, 118 ms. from R. and 81 
S. W. of W. C. It is situated at the 
southeastern foot of the Blue Ridge, 
in a fertile country, upon one of the 
head branches of Rappahannock 
river, (called Bush river,) and recent- 
ly chosen as the seat of justice for the 
county. It was formerly a P. O. in 
Culpeper Co.) It contains besides 
the usual county buildings, (lately 
erected,) 1 academy, 55 dwelling 
houses, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 
1 house of public worship, free for 
all drnominations. The principal 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— RICHMOND. 



277 



mechanics are 4 blacksmiths, 4 car- 
penters, 2 saddlers, I hatter, I tan- 
ner, 2 wagon makers, 3 tailors, 4 
shoemakers, 1 cabinet maker, I sil- 
versmith, 3 milliners, 1 plaisterer and 
bricklayer. In the vicinity there is 
a large and highly respectable female 
seminary, in which are taught all 
the various branches of English lite- 
lature, together with the French and 
Italian languages; and in the imme- 
diate neighborhood, are 2 large and 
extensive manufacturing flour mili.-j 
This village is rapidly improving, 
and is in a flourishing and prosper- 
ous condition, being situated in a 
thickly settled and enterprising neigh- 
borhood. Population 350 persons; 
of whom 4 are attorneys, and 2 regu 
lar physicians. 

County Courts are held on the ist 
Mo7iday in every month. Quarlerh/ 



in March, June, September, and No- 
vember. 

Judge Field holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 22dof April ami September. 

WooDviLLE, p. V. in the western 
angle of the county, 1 15 ms. N. W. 
of R. and 97 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated on the road leading from 
Thornton's Gap, in the Blue Ridge, 
to Fredericksburg, 1 1 ms. from the 
top of the Ridge, and 55 from the 
latter. It contains 4 mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, 1 school in which is taught 
all the main branches of an English 
education, 30 dwelling houses, 1 tan- 
yard, 3 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 boot 
and shoe maker, 1 cabinet maker, 1 
carpenter and house joiner, and 1 
tailor. Population 200 persons; of 
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are 
regular physicians. 



RICHMOND. 

RicHMoxD was created by the Legislature in 1G92, when the old county 
of Rappahannock was extinguished and the counties of Essex and Rich- 
mond made from its territories. It is bounded N. and N. E. by Westmore- 
land, — E. by Northumberland, — S. by Moratico creek, which separates it 
from Lancaster, — S. W. and W. by the Rappahannock river, which sepa- 
rates it from Essex, — and N. W. by Brockenbrough creek, separating it 
from Westmoreland. Its mean length is 25 miles, breadth 7f ; and area 
194 sq. miles. It e.vtends in lat. from 37° 47' to 38° 10' N. and in long, 
from 0° 10' to 0° 30' E. of W. C. 

Richmond belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. Popu- 
lation in 1820, 5,706— in 1830, G,055. Tax paid in 1833, $1158 67— in 
1834,— on land, $679 02—1281 slaves, $320 25—086 horses, $41 16— 



4 studs, $40 00—16 coaches, $40 40—9 carryalls, $9 00—78 gigs, 
$47 25. Total, $1177 08. Expended in educating poor children in 
1833, $167 51— no report for 1832. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «&c. 



Harnham, p. O. 66 ms. N.E. of R. 
and 128 from W. 

Lyell's Store, P. O. 60 ms. from 
R. and 122 S. S. E. of W. 

RICHMOND C. H. P. V. 56 ms. 
from R. and 118 S. E. of W., in lat. 
37° 55' N. and long. 0° 18' E. of 



W. C. This village, besides the 
usual county buildings, court house, 
clerk's ofhce and jail, contains 9 pri- 
vate dwelling houses, 2 general stores, 
1 house of public worship, (Episco- 
palian,) 1 female boarding school, in 
which are taught the necessary 



278 EASTERN VIRGINIA— SOUTHAMPTON; 



branches of polite education, and 1 
primary school for boys, 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 1 saddler, and 2 houses 
of public entertainment. The near- 
est navigable waters are two branches 
ef the Rappahannock river, each 3 
ms. distant, one the Toteskey, the 
other Rappahannock creek. The 
situation of this place is elevated and 
healthy, and the viciivty in a high 
state of improvement. Indian corn 
and wheat are the staple crops of the 



neighborhood Population 100 per- 
sons; of whom 4 are attorneys, and 
1 a physician. 

County Courts are held on the K?2 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, May, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 12/A of April and Sth of 
October. 



SOUTHAMPTON. 

SorTHAMPTON was created by act of Assembly in 1748, and formed out 
of a part of Isle of Wight county. It is bounded N. W. by Sussex, — 
Surry N. — Blackwaler river, separating it from the Isle of Wight, N. E. 
— Nansemond E., — Hertford and Northampton counties, N. Carolina, S. 
— and Meherrin river, separating it ff'om Greensville, S. W. Its length is 
40 miles, mean width 15; and area 600 square miles. The parallel of N. 
lat. 36^ 40', and the meridian of W. C. intersect in this county. Its slope 
is southeastward, and in that direction it is traversed by Nottoway river. 
The soil of this county is light and but little broken and well adapted to 
the cultivation of Indian corn, cotton, beans and potatoes, of which the 
two first are the principal commodities The husbandry is generally good. 
— It abounds in the finest of pine timber, from which is made for exporta- 
tion tar and turpentine. Nottoway river runs from N. W. to S. E., and by 
its junction with the Black water river forms the Chowan. It is naviga- 
ble for vessels of GO or 70 tons, as far as Monroe, from which place con- 
siderable quantities of lumber and other produce are shipped to Norfolk. 
Its length is about 120 miles. — Blackwater river takes its rise in Prince 
George county, and running m a southwardly direction, unites with the 
Nottoway. It is navigable for vessels of the largest size as far as South 
Quay in Nansemond county, and for small vessels for some miles higher 
up into the county of Southampton. In the low grounds bordering upon 
Nottoway and Blackwater rivers, the growth is chiefly oak and cypress of 
the finest quality, which must at no distant period be of great value. — The 
Portsmouth and Roanoke rail road passing through the county, and con- 
sequently crossing each of these rivers, will afford the greatest facility in 
conveying produce to market. — The prevailing religious denominations in 
this county are the Methodist and Baptist. They each have numerous 
houses of public Avorship in convenient parts of the county. 

Population in 1820, 14,170 — in 1830, 16,074. Southampton belongs to 
the first judicial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1833, ^3136 33 — 
in 1834.— On lots, $31 28— on land, $1470 03—3835 slaves, $958 75— 
2661 horses, $159 66—14 studs, $166 00—51 coaches, $125 00—24 car- 
ryalls, $24 00—277 gigs, $161 55. Total, $3096 28. Expended in 
♦educating poor children in 1832, $515 45— in 1833, $507 81. 



tAST£UN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA. 279 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bethlehem Cross Roads, P. O. 
Dl ms. from R. and 213 from W, 

Bowers', P.O. 91 ms. S. E. of R. 
and 213 from W. situated in the 
southern part of the county. 

Farm Tavern, P. O/OO ms. S. 
S. E. of R. and 210 S. of W. 

JERUSALEM, P. V. and scat of 
justice. 81 ms. S. S. E. of R. and 
203 from W. in lat. 36° 42' and long. 
0° 3' W. of W. This village is situa- 
ted on Nottoway river, and contains 
besides the ordinary county buildings, 
about 25 dwelling houses, 4 mercan- 
tile stores, 1 saddler, I carriage maker, 
i^ hotels^ 1 masonic hall, and 2 houses' 



of public entertainment. This town 
has been stationary for 20 years, hav- 
ing neither retrograded or advanced. 
Population 175 persons; of whom 4 
are resident attorneys, and 4 regular 
physicians. 

Count;/ Courts are held on the oil 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June^ August and .Yo- 
ve7nber. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the \st of June and 29 ^A of Octo- 
ber. 

Urquhart'r Store, P. O. 79 ms. 
S. E. of R. and 201 from W. 



SPOTTSYJLVANIA* 

Spottsylvania, was created by the legislature in 1720, and formed ovA 
of portions of Essex, King William and King & Queen counties. It is 
bounded on the N. by the Rappahannock river which separates it from 
Culpeper and Stafford, on the E. by Caroline, on the S. by Caroline, Han- 
over and Louisa, and on the W. by Orange. It is situated between 37° 59' 
and 38° 20' N. and between 20° 30' and 57° 30' W. from W. This coun- 
ty contains exclusive of Fredericksburg, 11,826 inhabitants. The soil of 
Spottsylvania is various, that near the rivers and smaller streams is very 
fine; but it is far otherwise on the ridges; for a wretched system of cultiva- 
tion adopted by the first settlers and long persisted in by their descendants, 
has reduced the land, originally thin, to a condition from which it will re- 
quire much time and labor to rescue it. 

The gold mines of this county having excited some interest, it may not 
be out of place here to say something of them. About seven years ago two 
brothers of the name of White, discovered some small pieces of gold on 
their farm, this naturally excited them to look further ; when it was disco- 
vered that after every rain numerous particles of various sizes became visi- 
ble. This Avas a sufficient hint to others. The most energetic, but misdi- 
rected zeal covered the country with explorers, having the least possible 
knowledge of the matter in hand. They might be seen hurrying hither 
and thither with a spade and tin pan, now stooping to lift a stone — now 
stooping to wound the bosom of their mother earth, and perhaps add another 
pound to the already cumbrous load of "indications" at their back. It 
was marvellous to see how they mutilated and distorted terms of science. 
The classic heathen were not more familiar with their household gods, than 
were these children of mamon with what they were pleased to call 'fridigi- 
nous quartz and " oxhigbiized iron.^^ A little cube of sulphuret of iron 
found on a man's farm, would elevate his hopes to the highest pitch of ex- 
citement: and if any one told him that it was not gold, he incontinently sus- 



ms EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOlTSYLVANIA. 

pcctetl him of a design to purchase the land. Gold, however, was found in 
considerable quantities, and that sort of stock rose to an excessive price, 
which of necessity produced a correspondent reaction, and the present de- 
pression is probably as much below the real value, as the former was 
above it.* 

Tobacco was formerly planted to the exclusion of almost every thing 
else ; but within the last 30 years it has gradually given place to wheat and 
Indian corn. 

The minerals found in greatest abundance are granite, free stone, quarts: 
andshistus; the two latter being ordinarily the gangue of the gold. -; 

The religious sects in the county are exclusive of the town, chiefly Bap- 
tists, who have 8 irieeting houses ; and Methodists who have 4 meeting 
houses. Of stores thei-e are 7; mills 25, some of Avhich are prepared for 
making flour, but only I is thus employed, and taverns 5. In these last 
are included only those which have tavern licence. The natural growth of 
the county is principally oak, and what is here called fox-tail pine, the lat- 
ter being found in lands Avhich were formerly exhausted by injudicious cul- 
tivation, and being neglected have thus clothed themselves. Population 
1820, 14,254 — 1830, 15,134. This county belongs to the 5th judicial cir- 
cuit and 3rd district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4,064 10 — in 1834, on lots, 
$959 24— on land, $1,534 89—4,250 slaves, $1,062 50—2,478 horses, 
^148 68—10 studs, $98 00—78 coaches, $174 00—4 stages, $7 00—39 
carrayalls, $39 00—131 gigs, $80 27. Total, $4,103 58. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $402 39— in 1833, $507 23. 

Historical Sketch. — The earliest authentic information we have of 
that portion of our state now called Spottsylvania, is found in an act past 
"at a grand assemblie held at Tames Cittie" between the 20th September 
1674, and the i7th March 1675, in which war is declared against the In- 
dians ; and amongst other provisions for earring it on, it is ordered that 
"one hundred and eleven men out of Glocester county be garrisoned at one 
"ffort," or place of defence at or neare the ffalls of Rapahanack river, of 
which JTbrt Major Lawrence Smith to be captain or chiefe commander ;" 
and that this " flbrt" be furnished with "flour hundred and eighty pounds 
of powder, ffburteen hundred and flbrty three pounds of shott." This "flbrt" 
was built in 1676 as appears by the preamble of a subsequent act. 

In the year 1679 Major Lawrence Smith upon his own suggestion Avas 
empowered, provided he would settle or seate downe at or neare said fort 
by the last day of March 1681, and have in readiness upon all occasions on 
beat of drum, fifty able men well armed with sulflcicnt ammunitions, &c. 
and two hundred men more within tlie space of a mile along the river, and 
a quarter of a mile back from the river, prepared always to march twenty 
miles in any direction from the fort ; or should they be obliged to go more 
than such distance to be paid for their time thus employed at the rate of 
other "souldiers," "to execute martiall- discipline" amongst the said fifty 
"souldiers and others so put in arms" both in times of war and peace : and 

* There are two manners of gathpring gold practised here — 1st. by washing the 
earth for what is called " surface-gold." This plan is pursued in several places in 
the county. The earth containing the particles, is thrown into cradles, into which 
mercury is poured, and a constant stream of water is directed — the amalgum found in 
the bottom is distilled — '2nd. mining, properly so called, is also carried on at a place 
on the Rappahannock river about *20 miles above Fredericksburg, the property of the 
United States Mining Company, incorpoiated at the hiot session of the legislature. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA, 281 

aaid Smith with two others of said privileged place to hear and determine 
all causes civil and criminal, that may arise within said limits, as a county 
Court might do, and to make bye-laws for the same. These military set- 
tlers were priviledged from arrest for any debts save those due to the King", 
and those contracted among themselves — and were free from taxes and le- 
vies save those laid within their own limits. 

i The exact situation of this fort cannot now be determined with absolute 
certainty; but as it is known that there was once a military post at Germana, 
some ruins of which are still occasionally turned up by the plough, it is 
jarobable that this is the spot selected by Col. Smith for his colony. 

The earliest notice we have of Spottsylvania county, as such, is found in 
7th Geo. I. 1720, passed at Williamsburg, of which the preamble declares 
by way of inducement " that the frontiers toward the high mountains are ex- 
posed to danger from the Indians and the late settlements of the French to 
the westward of the said mountains." Therefore it is enacted that Spott- 
sylvania county bounds upon Snow creek up to the mill, thence by a S. W. 
line to the North Anna, thence up the said river as far as convenient, and 
thence by a line to be run over the high mountains to the river on the N. 
W. side thereof, so as to include the northern passage through the said 
mountains, thence down the said river until it comes against the head of 
Rappahannock, thence by a line to the head of Rappahannock river and 
down that river to the mouth of Snow creek, which tract of lands from the 
1st of May 1721 shall become a county by the name of Spottsylvania Co." 

The a-:t goes on to direct that " fifteen hundred pounds current money 
of Virginia shall be paid by the treasurer to the Governor, for these uses, 
to wit : £.500 to be expended in a church, court house, prison, pillory and 
Stocks in said county: £1,000 to be laid out in arms, ammunition, &c. of 
which each "Christian tj-theable" is to have "one firelock, musket,* one 
socket, bayonet fired thereto, one cartouch box, eight pounds bullet, and 
two pounds powder." The inhabitants were made free of public levies for 
ten years, and the whole county made one parish by the name of St. George. 

From the following clause of the same act it is presumed that this new 
county had been cut off from Essex, King &- Q.ueen and King William; 
for the act declares that " until the Governor shall settle a court in Spottsyl- 
vania," the justices of these counties " shall take power over them by their 
warrants, and the clerks of said courts by their process returnable to their 
said courts, in the same manner as before the said county 2cas constituted.,^^ 

In the year 1730 an act was passed direcimg that the Burgesses for this 
county should be allowed for four days journey in passing to Williams- 
burg; and the same returning. In the same year St. George's Parish was 
divided by a line running from the mouth of Rappahannock to the Pamun- 
key: the upper portion to be called St. Mark's Parish ; the lower part to re- 
tain the name of St. George's Parish. Four years after this the county was 
thus divided: St. George's Parish to be still called Spottsylvania; and St. 
Mark's Parish to be called Orange, and all settlers beyond the " Sherran- 
do,"t river to be exempt for three years from the "paiment" of public and 
parish dues. 

♦ Whether it was intended to make these a compound word as firclock-muskct, we 
know not — we have followed the printed act. 
+ This is the spelling of the act •' Shcrrando." 
36 



282 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA. 



The Governor fixed the seat of justice at Germanna, where the first court 
sat on the 1st day of August 1722 when Augustine Smith, Richard Booker, 
John Taliaferro, Wm. Hunsford, Richard Johnson and Wm. Bledsoe were 
sworn as justices, John Waller, as clerk, and Wm. Bledsoe as sheriff: this 
place being found "inconvenient to the people," it was directed by law that 
from and after the 1st August 1732, the court should be held at Fredericks- 
burg, \Yhich law was repealed seventeen years afterwards, because it was 
" derogatory to his majesty!s prerogative to take from the Governor or com- 
mander in-chief of this colony his power and authority of removing or ad- 
journing the courts;" and because " it might be inconvenient in a casctrf 
srnall pox or other contagious distemper." 

In 1769 the county which had theretofore been one parish was thus di- 
vided, — all that part lying between the rivers Rappahannock and Po retain- 
ed the name of St. George's Parish, — the rest of the county was erected 
into a new parish called Berkley. In 1778 an act was passed authorising 
the justices to build a Court house at some point near the centre of the coun- 
ty to which the courts hould be removed, provided a majority of the justices 
should concur in deeming it advisable. It appears that the justices deter- 
mined to avail themselves of this privilege, for an act of 1780 passed, as is 
therein std.ted in consequence of a representation, that the Court house in 
Fredericksburg was " unfit to hold courts in," authorises the county court 
to be held at the house of John Holladay, " until the new Court honse now 
building in the said county shall be completed.^^ 

The first regular stage coaches that passed through this county were es- 
tablished by Nathaniel Twining, by virture of an exclusive privilege 
granted him in 1784, for the term of three years, to be paid at the rate of 
five pence per mile by each passenger. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Chaxcellorsville, p. V. f6 ms. 
from R. and 66 from W., situated at 
the junction of Elly's road with the 
Swift Run Gap and Fredericksburg 
turnpike, about 10 ms. from the latter 
place. It contains 14 dwelling houses, 
a tavern which has a front of 106 ft. 
on the turnpike and runs back 55 ft. 
on Elly's road, and a blacksmith shop. 
The surrounding scenery is very 
pretty, and the soil tolerably fertile 
and susceptible of improvement. The 
products aie corn, wheat, rye, oats 
and hay, which are principally sold 
h\ Fredericksburg. The neighbor- 
hood is tliickly settled, and contain 3 
houses of public worship, 2 of which 
belong to the Baptist, and 1 to the 
Methodists, and a Sunday school in a 
prosperous condition. 

Danielsville, p. O. 90 ms. from 
R. and 80 ms, S. W. of W. Daniels- 



ville is only a P. O. situated in the 
midst of the gold region, and contigu- 
ous to the White Hall gold mine, 10 
ms. S. W. of Fredericksburg, 24 ms. 
E. of Orange C. H., 8 ms. S. of the 
Wildnerness tavern, 12 ms. E. of th« 
Orange Springs, and 10 ms. W. of 
Spottsylvania C. H. immediatelj'- on 
the road leading from Orange Springs 
to Fredericksburg. The mail is car- 
ried on horseback, and received on 
Wednesday's and Thursday's. 

Fredericksburg, Port of Entry, 
and Post Town, 56 miles South S. 
W. of Washington City, and 66 ms. 
a little E. of N. from Richmond, in 
lat. 38° 34', 20" N. and long. 77^ 38' 
W. of W. C, situated on the S. side 
of Rappahannock river, at the head of 
tide water, and about 150 ms. from its 
mouth. This is a prosperous port: 
! vessels of 140 tons can be navigated 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA. 



2S: 



to the foot of the falls. It derives its 
name from Prince Frederick, father 
of George III. and was founded in 
1727, on what was originally called 
the lease land, and contained when 
first laid out, 50 acres, — in 1742 the 
l?oundaries of the town were enlarged, 
and still further enlarged in 1759. 
The town is seated in a rich valley, 
ti^e view of which from any of the 
neighbouring hills is exceedingly 
beautiful. It is incorporated, the 
management of its affairs are entrust- 
ed to a Mayor at $400 per annum, 
and a common Council without sala- 
ries. The corporation owes about 
$16,000, but holds real property to a 
much larsrer amount. The public 



and by the canal, the lower part of 
which is now open, bituminous coal 
from Richmond, and the anthracite, 
and is supplied with water, through 
aqueducts, constructed by an incorpo- 
rated company. In the immediate vi- 
cinity are found vast quantitii"^ of very 
fine granite and free stone. A canal 
is now in progress to cormect this 
town with Fox's mill, a point on the 
river 35 ms. above. There are an- 
nually exported from this town 75,000 
barreh of flour, 150,000 bushels c! 
wheat, 100 hogsheads of tobacco, 
about 500,000 bushels of Indian corn, 
500 tierces of- flax seed, and between 
65 and $70,000 worth of gold, &c. 
In the year 1738 a law was passed di- 



buildings are a C. H., clerk's office: reeling that "Fairs should be held in 
and jail, a neat brick market house Fredericksburg twice a year for the 
abundantly supplied with all kinds ofisale of cattle, provisions, goods, wares 
meats, fish and vegetables. There and all kinds of merchandize what.so- 
are 5 houses of public worship, 1 lever." All persons at such Fairs, 
Episcopalian, I Presbyterian, 1 Me- going to or from them, were privil 



thodist, 1 Baptist and I Reformed 
Baptist, 5 male and 7 female schools, 
besides 2 free schools, 1 male and 1 
female, which are incorporated and 
endowed, the former having 40, and 
the latter 18 pupils, and to each of the 
above churches is attached a Sunday 
school. There are 1 orphan asylum, 
4 taverns and 97 licensed stores, 2 



edged from arrest and execution — du- 
ring the Fairs, and for 2 days before_ 
and 2 days after them, except for cap- 
ital offences, breaches of the peace, or 
for any controversies, suits and quar- 
rels that might arise during the time. 
These Fairs were continued from 
time to time, by various acts until 
1769 when the right of holding them 



printing offices, the Virginia Herald j was made perpetual. Population, 
and the Political Arena, each issuing! whites 1,797 persons; of whom IG 
a semi-weekly paper. The former of|are resident attorneys, and 6 regiilar 
these is the oldest paper in Virginia, iphysicians: slaves, 1,124; free blacks. 
The principal mechanical pursuits 387. Total 3,308. 
are 3 tanneries and 3 saddlers, be-j Lewis's Store, P O. 59 ms. from 
sides house carpenters, iron founders, R. and 84 ms. from. "W. 
cabinet makers, tailors, boot and shoe I Mount Pleasant, P. O. 60 ms 
makers, house, sign and ornamental from R. and 76 from W, situated im- 
painters, stone cutters, brick layers. ! mediately on the main south western 
blacksmiths, watch makers, tallow route, leading from Fredericksburg 
chandlers, tin plate workers, copper {by Cartersville to PoweUon, in Geor- 
smiths, gun smiths, hatters, butchers, gia, 20 ms. S. W. of F., 5 ms. S. of 
bakers, machinists, coach makers and 'Spottsylvania C. H. 6 ms. N. W. of 
trimmers, carvers and gilders, stucco New Market, 10 ms. N. of Dabney 
workers, plaisterers, plumbers, turn- i Mills, and 7 ms. N. E. of Lew is' j 
ers and confectioners. This town is Store. 

supplied with 3 kinds of fuel, viz. — | Partlow, P. O. 59 ms. N. of R, 
svood from tlic nei^liborliood, by land {and 19 ms. S. S. W. of "W. 



284 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— STAFFORD. 



SPOTTSYLVANIA C. H. P. OJ 

situated about the centre of the coun- 
ty, on Po river. 

Comity Cowts are held on the 2d 
Thursday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the 23d 
of May and August, by Judge Lo- 

MAX. 

Thomburg, p. V. 69 ms. from R. 
and 70 ms. S. W. of W., situated 14 
ms. S. of Fredericksburg. A part of the 
village is on the N. and a part on the 
S. side of the river Po. It contains 
several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile 
store, 1 house of entertainment, 1 
general mill, running 3 pair of stones, 
1 tanyard and a blacksmith's shop, 1 
common school; and there is in the 
vicinity a Baptist house of public 
worship. The mail arrives only 
once a week. 

Todd's Store, P. O. 80 ms. from 
R. and 70 ms from W. 

Twyman's Store, P. O. 99 ms. 
from R. and 89 ms, S. W. of W. 



Wilderness, P. O. on the north 
western border of the county, 81 ms. 
from R. and 71 ms. S. S. W. of W., 
situated on the turnpike road, 15 ms. 
from Fredericksburg. It contains 
several dwelling houses, 1 extensive 
mercantile store, 1 tavern, a tailor's 
and a blacksmith's shop. This place 
is situated in a healthy country, which 
produces corn, oats, barley, wheat, to- 
bacco, rye, potatoes, hemp, flax, &c. 
Much gold is found in the vicinity, 
and several gold establishments in ac- 
tive operation, some of which are 
'worked to great advantage and profit. 
iThese gold operations, have already 
[produced a very sensible eflfect upon 
this section of country, bringing a 
considerable amount of capital into ac- 
!tive use, and making business brisk. 
Should the mining business contmue 
to improve, of which there is at pre- 
'sent no doubt, this place must increase 
Iconsiderably in importance. The 
'mail from Fredericksburg to Char- 
lottesville, and a horse mail from 
jLouisa pass daily. Fifteen mails a 
week are received. 



STAFFORD. 



Stafford was created by act of Assembly 1675, and formed out of a 
part of Westmoreland county. It is bounded on the N. by Prince Wil- 
liam, — E. by the Potomac river, separating it from Charles Co. Md., — 
S. E. by King George county, — S, by the Rappahannock which separates 
it from Caroline county, — S. W. by Spottsylvania, — W. by Culpeper, — 
and N. W. by Fauqier. Near lat. 38° 25', long. 0° 22' W. of W. C. — 
Length 20 miles; mean width 12, — and area 300 square miles. Its sur- 
face is hilly, and generally poor. The agricultural productions are wheat, 
rye, corn, oats, hay, tobacco, &.c. The soil is of a varied character. On 
the Potomac it is of a light loam, which is very productive, and is inter*- 
spersed with beds of shell marl of the richest quality. Contiguous to this 
division of the county, there is a tract of land six or eight miles in width 
and extending through the entire length of the county, which abounds 
with free stone of excellent quality. Large quantities of this article are 
exported to supply the demands of Washington, Baltimore, Norfolk and 
various other places. The soil in this free stone region is of a sandy 
nature, and Ic-s productive than the loam in the more immediate vicinity of 
the Potomac. In the remaining portion of Stafford the soil is a clay of 
varying color and consistency, and with proper husbandry produces good 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— STAFFORD. 



285 



crops of wheat. The species of stone found here are granite, quartz, <fec. 
A vein of gold ore extends through this part of the county, which is 
represented to be equal in richness to any that has been discovered in Vir- 
ginia. There are three considerable creeks in the county, viz: Aquia, 
Potomac, and Accokeek ; all of which admit the tides from Potomac river. 
The two first named are navigable by schooners for several miles in the 
interior, and in common with the river affords valuable sites for herring 
fisheries. There are nine houses of public worship in this county — 4 
Baptist, 2 Methodist, 1 Presbyterian, and 2 free for all denominations. 

Population 1820, 9,517— in 1830, 9,362. It belongs to the sixth judi- 
cial circuit and third district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2085 32— in 1834 on 
lots, 118 63— on land, $1179 73—1816 slaves, $454 00—1690 horses, 
$101 40—4 studs, $43 00—30 coaches, $64 00—47 carryalls, $47 00— 
29 gigs, $18 05. Total, $2025 81. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $305 1 1— in 1833, $247 28. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Aquia, P. O. 80 ms. from R. and 
42 from W. It takes its name from a 
creek on which it is situated at the 
head of tide water. There are one 
or two old dilapidated houses, in 
which some trade was probably for- 
merly carried on, — but no business is 
now done. 

Falmouth, P. V. 68 ms. N. of R. 
and 58 S. S. W. of W., situated on 
the left bank of Rappahannock river, 
at the foot of the falls, in the soiuhern 
part of the county, a mile above Fred- 
ericksburg. It is connected with 
the Spottsylvania shore by a bridge. 
Falmouth was incorporated and laid 
out as a village by act of Assembly 
in 1727. It has rapidly improved — 
containing 70 dwelling houses, 12 
general stores, 1 house of public 
worship free for all denominations, 1 
common school, 1 masonic hall, 1 
druggist shop, 3 merchant mills, 
manufacturing about 30,000 barrels 
of flour annually, and inspectin 
60,000, 3 grist mills, 1 in the town 
and 2 in its immediate vicinity, (one 
of which is situated on the site of an 
old forge, at which was the largest 
manufactory of arms during the revo- 
lution,) 1 lanyard, 1 tailor, 2 black- 
smith shops, and I buhr mill stone 
factory. The handsomest bridge 
across the Rappahannock is situated 



at this place. Population about 500 
persons, of whom 2 are attorneys and 
3 regular physicians. 

Spottedville, p. O. 69 ms, from 
R. and 79 from W., situated 12 ms. 
N. W. of Falmouth, on the stage 
road leading from Winchester and 
Warrenton to Fredericksburg, and in 
the immediate vicinity of several 
gold mines. Spottedville is the name 
of a P. O. which stands 4 ms. above 
the place at which the road forks. 
At the latter place are situated a ta- 
vern, a mercantile store, a Baptist 
and a Methodist house of public wor- 
hip At this place a road to Staf- 
ford C. H., 16 ms. distant, intersects 
one to Richard's Ferry, and the Rat- 
tle Snake gold mines, one to Jefler- 
sonton in Culpeper, and one to Sum- 
merville. Elk Run, and Warrenton. 

STAFFORD C. H. P. V. 76 ms. 
N. E. of R. and 46 S. W. of W., in 
lat. 38° 10' N. and long. 25' W. of 
W. C. This village, besides the usu- 
al county buildings, contains 13 dwel- 
ling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 
tavern and several mechanics. Popu- 
lation 90 persons, of whom 1 is a 
physician. 

County Courts are held on the 2d 
Monday in every month ; Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 



286 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— 8 URRY. 



Judge Scott holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 2d of June and November. 



Stafford Springs, P. U- in tlie. 
western part of the county, 104 n»s- 
from R. and 88 from W. 



SURRY. 

This county was created by the legislature in 1052, Ave are not 
able to ascertain from wliat county it was created. It is bounded N. W. 
and N. by Prince George, N. and N. E. by James river, which separates 
it from Charles City and James City, E. and S. E. by Isle of Wight,. S. 
by Southampton, and S. W. by Sussex. Its length and breadth are nearly 
equal and about 18 ms., area 324 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 26° 50', 
to 37° 11' N. and in long, from 0° 19', E. to 0° 18' W. ot W. C. The 
southern and western part of Surry slopes to the S. E. and is drained into 
Blackwater river, the N. E. part slopes towards the James. Population in 
1810, 6,855—1820, 6,594—1830, 7,109. It belongs to the 1st judicial cir- 
cuit, and 1st district. Tax paid in 1833, «> 1,261 04— in 1834. on lots, 
$2 19— land, $625 29—1,702 slaves, $425 50—861 horses, $51 66—2 
studs, $26 00—19 coaches, $44 50—18 carryalls, $18 00—10 gigs, 
$64 35. Total, $1,257 49. Expended in educating poor children in 
1832, $374 27— in 1833, $263 18. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bacon Castle, P. O. 70 ms. from 
R. and 192 ms. from W. 

Baileysburg, p. O. 67 ms. S. E. 
of R. and 189 from W. 

Cabin Point, 47 ms. S. E. of R. 
and 169 ms. from W. C, situated in 
the western part of the county nearly 
in the meridian of Washington. 

SURRY C. H. P. O. 60 ms. S. E. 
by E. of R. and 183 ms. a little E. of 
S. from W. It contains besides the 
ordinary county buildings, 4 dwelling 
houses, a tavern, 2 mercantile stores 
and a repository of public arms. The 



mechanics are a cabinet maker ara4 
itailor. Two miles west of the towai 
a coitan factory has recently gone in- 
to operation Avhich runs 250 spindles; 
Population 44 persons : of whom 1 is 
an attorney and 1 a physician. 

Couniy Courts are held on the 4th 
Monday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Baker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 25M of April, and \bth of 
October. 



SUSSEX. 

Sussex was created by the legislature in 1754, and taken from a part of 
the county of Surry. It is bounded on the N. by Prince George, N. E. by 
Surry, S. E. and S. by Southampton, and W. by Dinwiddie. Its length 
from S. W. to N. E. is 37 ms.; mean breadth 16 ms. ; and area 592 sq. ms. 
It extends in lat. from 36° 42', to 37° 07' N. and in long, from 0° 02' E. 
to 0° 46' W. of W. C. The southern parts are drained into Three creek, 
a branch of Nottov/av, — it.'; centrnl pnrts into Nnttowav river, nud its north- 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— SUSSEX. 



287 



erh parts into Blackwater river. Population in 1810, 11,362 — 1820, 
11,884 — 1830, 12,720. It belongs to the second judicial circuit, and first 
district. Tax paid in 1833, $2,729 44— in 1834, on land, $1,206 01— 
4,067 slaves, $1,016 75—1,974 horses, $118 44—3 studs, $25 00—72 
coaches, $188 25—12 carryalls $12 00—257 gigs, $145 10. Total, 
$2,711 55. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $338 95 — in 
1833, $600 97. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Coman's Well, P. O. 54 ms. S. 
S. E. of R. and 176 ms. from W. 

Davis's Tavern, P. O. 50 ms. S. 
E. of R. 

Littleton, P. O. 66 ms. S. of R 
and 188 ms. from W. 

MiLLBORo' P. O. 55 ms. S. S. E. 
of R. and 5 ms. S. E. of Sussex C. H. 

Parham's Store, P. O. 50 ms. S. 
S. E. of R. and 172 ms. from W. 

Stoney Creek Warehouse, P. 
0. 43 ms. from R. and 165 ms. from W. 
This P. O. has been recently moved 
from Rowanty creek, and is novi^ situ- 
ated on the Petersburg Rail Road, 
immediately on the south bank of 
Rowanty creek, over which the Rail 
Road passes, by means of a bridge 
110 ft. in length, built on the lattice 
plan of Towns. The warehouse is 
one of the depots, substantially built 
with a turn- out station immediately 
through it. The house is 70 ft. by 
30. The engine and cars pass thro' 
when ever necessary, to prevent the 
obstruction of each other, or loading 
and unloading, &c. The locomotive 
engines with their trains of cars and 
coaches pass and repass daily, with 
the exception of Sunday, when the 
train carrying the mail only has the 
privilege. The United States south- 
ern mail, together with the small 
mails for the adjacent post offices are 
carried by the.se locomotives. The 
produce of the Roanoke and the in- 
termediate country are transported by 
this road with facility, and in great 
quantity and variety. Five ms. S. of 
this place, the road passes Nottoway 
river, by means of a similar bridge 
of the same length and construction. 



besides the warehouse, are a hand- 
some and commodious building just 
completed, intended for a tavern, 1 
mercantile store and the houses of 
several mechanics. In the vicinity 
are 3 houses of public Avorship, (2 
Methodist and 1 Baptist,) 4 well es- 
tablished grist and 2 saw mills. This 
depot is 9 ms. west of the C. H. and 
3 ms. from the junction of Stoney and 
Rowanty creeks, with the Nottoway 
riA^er, — all of which streams afford a 
moderate supply of shad in their sea- 
son, and an abundance of small fish 
at all times. The lands are general- 
ly fertile and well adapted to the cul- 
ture of Indian corn, wheat, oats and 
tobacco. The neighboringlow grounds 
and swamps afford quantities of white 
oak and pine timbei, from which are 
manufactured an abundance of pipe 
and other staves, and sent by the Rail 
Road, together Avith other lumber to 
Petersburg. 

Judging by the progress of im- 
proA-^ement since the company built 
this AA'arehouse, it is reasonable to an- 
ticipate, that at no distant day a thriv- 
ing and handsome little village Avill 
spring up. The neighborhood is 
supplied Avith excellent Avater, and 
thickly settled Avith industrious and 
wealthy farmers. 

SUSSEX C. H. P. O. 50 ms. S. S. 
E. of R. and 172 ms. S. W. of W. 
situated about the centre of the Co. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Thursday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and Octo- 
ber. 

JroGE May holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 



The improvements at Stoney creek.'on the \Oth of J/fly and Octobc 



288 EASTERN VIRGINIA— WARWICK. 

WARWICK. 

Wauwick was one of the eight original shires into which Virginia was 
divided by the legislature in 1634, under the name of Warwick river. It 
is bounded on the N. by York county, E. by Elizabeth City county, S. by 
James river which separates it from Isle of Wight, and W. by James City 
county. Its length diagonally from south east to north west is 18 ms. ; 
mean width 7^ ; and area 95 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 03', to 37° 
13' north, and in long, from 0° 22', to 0° 38' east of Washington City. It 
occupies a portion of the narrow peninsula which runs down between York 
and James rivers, and slopes towards the latter. Population in 1810, 1,835 
— in 1820, 1,608 — 1830, 1,570. It belongs to the third judicial circuit, 
and second district Tax paid in 1834, on land, $170 64 — 544 slaves, 
8136 00—230 horses, $13 80—3 coaches, $8 00 — 2 carryalls, $2 00— 
36 gigs, $20 30. Total, $350 74. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $20 42— in 1833, $57 81. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



WARWICK C. H. P. O. 184 ms. 
S. E. of W. and 81 ms. S. E. by E. of 
R. Besides the usual county build- 
ings, there are only 2 dwelling 
houses ; 1 of which is a house of pri- 
vate entertainment, 1 general store, 
and 1 common school. Population 
21. 



County Cmirts are held on the 2d 
Thursday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Upshitu holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 29/A of April ancl Septem- 
ber. 



WESTMORELAND. 

Westmoreland county is situated on the N. E. frontier of Virginia, 
and occupies an intermediate space in that range of counties embraced be- 
tween the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers — commonly designated as 
the Northern Neck. 

The first mention which has been found of this county is in an act* of 
the "Grand Assembly" of July 1653; by which Act, "It is ordered, that 
the bounds of the county of Westmoreland be as followeth, (viz.) from 
Machoactoke river, where Mr. Cole lives, and so upwards to the falls of 
the great river PaAvtomake, above the Necostin's tovvne." From the lan- 
guage of this statute it would seem that the county was previously in exis- 
tence; but it is not ascertained at what time it was taken from the older 
county of Northumberland (at first called Chicawane or Chickcown) 
which was established in 1648, and declared by an act of that year to 
contain the "neck of land between Rappahannock river and Potomack 
river."t 

The large extent which was at first given to Westmoreland has been 
greatly diminished, so that at present it lies between 38° 29' N. lat. and 

♦ Henning's Stat, at Large, 381. 
t Henning's Stat, at Larjjc, 352. 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— WESTiMORELAND. 289 

C^ 30' E. long, from W ; and is bounded on the N. E. by the Potomac 
river on the N. W. by King George county, — on the S. by the Rap- 
pahannock and Richmond counties — and on the S. E. by the county of Nor- 
thumberland. Its length is about 30 miles, and its mean breadth 9^ ms. 
and is estimated to contain an area of 335 sq. ms. 

The county is indented by numerous water courses, chiefly tributary to 
the Potomac. The first in importance is Nominy (or Nomini) bay, an 
arm of the Potomac, and extending five miles in length and one in breadth. 
Its mean depth is 8 feet. It aifords a safe harbor for vessels of small bur- 
den. Into this bay flows Nominy river, which is navigable, for vessels of 
**1Sirden for about 7 miles from its mouth, and for boats two miles farther. 

The creeks running into the Potomac are— .^fojtroc's, navigable for 
vessels and for boats for about 4 miles from its mouth ; Mattox, for ves= 
sels of burden as far as the bridge about 3 miles, and for boats 3 or 4 miles 
beyond; Pope^s creek, navigable about 2 miles for boats only. These 
creeks are situated in the N W part of the county. To the N. E ar« 
found, Ckatitilly or Cold Harbor creek, navigable for boats only about one 
mile ; Lower Machodoc, four miles for vessels and for boats 1 xtiile higher. 

Into Nominy bay empty — Currisman creek, navigable about 1 mile. — ■ 
Poor Jack, about I mile and a quarter ; Smart's, about three-quarters of a 
mils by boats only. Buckner's creek flpws, into Nominy rivgr, and may be 
navigated by small craft for 3 miles, and 1 mile farther by boats ; Yoco- 
mico river receives the waters of Garner's, Jacksott's and Bo?i-um^s creeks t 
the first navigable for 2 miles — the second for 1 mile and a quarter, and the 
last for one -and a half miles for boats only. Glebe creek may be here 
mentioned, flowing into the Potomac midway between Buckner's and Yo- 
comico, and navigable for vessels of light burden for one or two miles. In 
the western part of the county Baldici7i's and Brockenbrougk' s creeks run 
into the Rappahannock. They are believed to be wholly unnavigable. 

Most of these waters abound with the finest fish, oysters and wild fov;I : 
which furnish the means of subsistence to many of the poor, and spread 
the richest repasts* of luxury on the tables of the v/ealtliy. 

The face of the county is diversified by hills and fiat land. A range of 
the former, pursuing a S. E. and N. W. course, penetrates the entire coun= 
ty longitudinally, and divides the waters of the Potomac and Rappahan- 
nock. Upon the summit of this range, at various intervals are situated 
several private mansions, from which can be seen in opposite directions 
the waters of the majestic Potomac, and of the genth/ meandering Rappa- 
hannock, with extensive plains intervening — exhibiting to the delightful 
eye of every lover of natural scenery, the most beautiful and variegated 
landscapes. 

The soil on either river, and adjacent to the creeks, is fertile and produc- 
tive, and remarkably well adapted to the growth of Indian corn and wheat ; 
the two kinds of grain chiefly cultivated. That on the Potomac and its 
tributaries consists of a rich argillacious, loamy mixture. That on the 
Rappahannock contains a greater measure of sand ; and though noj infe» 

♦ The good people of Westmoreland, hov/ever frugal and temperate in al! things 
else, discover a highly epicurean taste for these "luxuries of the deep." Although 
so abundant and so accessible — they loose none of their value from this cause — but 
,arc nevertbeleis held in the highest estimation— 

''As if increase of appetite ^^cv:" 
"By what it fed on." 
37 



C90 EASTERN VIRGINIA— WESTMORELAND. 

rior in fertility, is from this cause better suited to the production of corn 
than wheat. The middle or forest lands are, for tho most part sterile — 
are covered with a thick growth of pine and cedar and exhibit all the 
symptoms of early exhaustion from the successive culture of tobacco, and 
neglect of improvement. They are not irreclaimable ; for experiment has 
proved that these lands are susceptible of the highest degree of improve- 
ment by the aid of clover and plaster ; and they have in roany instances' 
gratefully repaid the attentions of the husbandman by the production of 
ample and abundant crops. This is peculiarly the case with that section 
of the county which lies above, or to the N. W. of the Court House. And 
the same remarks will apply Avith nearly equal propriety to that portion, 
which is situated below, or to S. and S. E. of the C. H. 

Hitherto, indeed, but little regard has been paid to system in agricultural 
improvement. But within the last few years an honorable and praise- 
worthy emulation has been excited among the farmers to excel in skill 
and industry : and whilst greater neatness and arrangement have marked 
this increased attention to the farming operations, more plentiful returns and 
an advanced fertility in the condition of the soil, are most happily mani- 
fested. 

"Wheat and corn are the staple productions ; though other crops are 
grown — .such as rye, oats and cotton, &c., which are principally used in 
domestic consumption. Cord wood (pine, hickory and oak, and some tan- 
bark, but chiefly the former) has been extensively exported from the county 
to the cities of the District, and to Baltimore, and has proved a source of 
lucrative commerce. It is estimated that upwards of 15,000 cords have 
been shipped in one year from the county. 

Westmoreland possesses but few antiquities or natural curiosities: and 
none of sufficient interest and importance to distinguish its history, or im- 
part attractions to its geography : none from which the philosopher of na- 
ture or of man could glean new materials for useful remark or ingenious 
speculation, either to enlarge the circle of physical science, or to"* illustrate 
the manners and customs of an antecedent race of human beings. 

Of the curiosities of nature the most interesting perhaps is the cliffs on 
the Potomac. These rise abruptly from the water's edge and form a pre- 
cipice of between two and three lumdred feet high — extending to a distance 
of more than four miles along the course of the river. In the sides of 
these clifis at intervals from their base to their summit are found embedded 
the remains of variovis kinds oi fish and other animals — denoting accord- 
ing to the received theory on the subject, an antediluvian existence of these 
animals. Many fossil remain-s. have also been found deeply deposited be- 
neath the surfiice o\' the earth, far in the interior oi the county and in a 
champaign region — some curious specimens of Avhich are in the possession 
of a gentleman residing near the Court house, who has made several rare 
collections of the kind. 

Though there is presented but little here of importance to arrest the eye 
of the stranger, yet to the citizen of the county there are some objects of 
peculiar attraction and interest. These are the birthplaces and former resi- 
dences of some of the sons of W^estmoreland and the most distinguished 
men of our country. The ruins of ChaiitUly, situated upon the Potomac 
-—once the residence of Richard Henuy Lee, are still exhibited. With- 
in a few miles of the same river and higher up may be seen Stradford, the 
fninily seat of the Lee's for many generations ; and latterly of Gen'l Henry 



E ASTEIRN_ VIRGINIA— WESTMORELAND. 29 1 

Lee. On Pope's creek the scarcely distinguished remains of a house are 
discovered, which tradition designates as the spot on wliich the illustrious 
WASHINGTON was born.* In a few years these will have become 
obliterated, as they are now barely perceptible, and not a stone be left ta 
point the inquisitive patriot to the place that gave birth to the "Father of 
his county." Ought not the spot to be rescued from the oblivion to which 
it is destined by the effects of time and the incursions of the ploughshare? 
Does it not merit from the hands of his countrymen a durable memorial of 
the incident by which it is marked .' Let the public of Virginia answer. 
■^ — At the head of Monroe's creek is a spot also known as remarkable for 
the birth of the late President James Moxroe. 

In the Hall of Justice hangs a full length portrait of the Earl of Chat- 
ham. This painting was executed by Peel, and presented by Edmund 
Jennings, Esq. merchant of London, to the "Gentlemen of Westmoreland,' 
in 1768, through the hands of R. H. Lee. The letters of Mr Jennings to 
Mr. Lee upon its presentation, ate preserved in the clerk's oflice among the 
archives of the county. 

The picture represents Lord Chatham, in the co-stume of a Roman Senor 
tor — with head, arms and legs bare, and holding in his left hand a copy o£ 
Magna- Charta ; and obliquely to his right in the foreground is presented 
an altar with the flame of liberty i.ssuing forth — and upon it desposited a 
civic wreath. 

But however desthute this county is of natural curio-sitios and work.s of 
art — yet there are events connected with her historv, already partially al- 
luded to, which furni.sh abundant cau.?e to her citizens to exult in her lame, 
and justify them in claiming for their county the classical appellation of 
the Athens of Virginia. Some of the most renowned rnen of this coun- 
try were born within her borders. Of these may be mentioned Vv'ashing- 
ton, R. H. Lee and his three brothers, Thomas, Francis and Arthur, 
Gen'l Henry Lee, the late Judge Bushrod Washington, and the late Presi- 
dent James Monroe — names of the highest distinction for wisdom, patriot- 
ism, eloquence, learning, fortitude and valor, and which of themselves 
would render illu:<trious the hiistory of any country. To have given birth 
to these distinguished men and fathers of the American Republic, is n 
source of cherished pride and honor to the citizens of Westmoreland, and 
they refer to tliese incidents as constituting a brilliant epoch in the annals 
of their county — and as vindicating for it a clear and undisputed title to 
the classic name they have appropriated to it. Should centuries elapse 
before it again attains distinction lor its moral and intellectual character — 
it has acquired a iime venerable and immortal, that must dcscci>d conspicu- 
ous to all future ages. "" >~.„._^ 

. The population of this count v in 1810 was 8,102 — in 1S20, G,901 — in 
1330, 8,411— of whom 3,718 were whites— 3,845 slaves, ajid 848 free per- 
sons of color. It belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. 



* We subjoin thi.s note from aiiotlin- pen : 

"General Waslunirtou was 'loru on o, ])laiilation called "Wakefield, now the pro- 
perty of John Gray, E>q. of Traveller's Re?i, lyin,i( on Pope's Creek, in Wesimore- 
laad county, Va. The Jiouse iu which he first .saw light, wa.s 300 yards from the 
creek, half a mile from its entrance into the Potomac. The mansion has long since 
fallen into ruins. Some of the trees of "olden days," are yet standing around it. 
There is nothing at present to interest, except the' recollections that must crowd 
upon the miBd, while conler.ipla'ins;- ihe hirlh plane of "\7aj:hii.tun.'' 



■292 



EASTERN VlRGINTA^Yf)RK 



Tax paid in 1834 on lots, $9 19— land, $806 92—1963 slaves, 8490 75— 
1045 horses, 862 70—3 studs, $38 00—34 coaches, $81 25—13 car- 
ryalls, $13 00—99 gigs, $58 45. Total, $1560 26. Expended in edu> 
eating poor children in 1833, $240 46. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, <Scc. 



Hague, P. O. situated in the east- 
ern part of the county, 70 ms. S. E. 
of R, and 132 from W. 

HuTTsviLLE, P. O. 65 miles from 
R. and 127 from W. 

KiNSALE, P. O. 76 ms. from R 
and 138 from W. 

Leeds, P. O. 82 ms. from R. and 
104 S. S. E. of W. 

Oak Grove, P. O. 88 ms. N. N. 
E. of R. and 98 S. of W. This 
post office has recently been removed 
from Mattox Bridge. Oak Grove is 
situated equidistant (6 ms.) from the 



hood is thickly settled, and country 
stores are to be met with at intervals 
of every 4 or 5 miles. The scenep}? 
of the surrounding country is beauti- 
ful and picturesque, and would well 
repay those who have money and 
leisure in paying a visit to this vicin- 
ity, not far from which is the birth- 
places of the illustrious "Washing- 
ton, Marshall, Monroe, and other 
distinguished men. 

WESTMORELAND C. H. P. V 
70 ms. from R. and 116 S. S. E. of 
W., sitLxated near the centre of the 



Potomac and Rappahannock rivers, county, being equidistant between the 
and one mile from Mattox creek. Itjrivers Rappahannock and Potomac, 
contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 house The houses are but few, and arranged 
of public worship, (Methodist,). 3! without regard to order or compact- 
mercantile stores, (and 2- others in the'ness ; of these 8 are buiU of brick, 
immediate vicinity,) 1 tavern und Ijincluding the Court House, Clerk'a 
house of private entertainment. Thejoffice and jail, — the rest are of wood, 
soil in the neighborhood is gene:\\lly!very old and much, dilapidated. It 
fertile and well adapted to the (^ij^uejcontains 2 general mercantile stores, 
of Indian corn, wheat, tobacco, cotton, i2 taverns, 1 carriage maker, 1 sad- 



&-C. Though the two fir.-.i; articles 
are almost solely cultivated ; aext to 



dler, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 
tailor. Population about 100 persons; 



these the principal article of trade is of whom 5 are resident attorneys, and 
wood] so brisk is the sale, and so large: 3 regular physicians. 
the supply, that 4 or 5 vessels andl County Coiorts are held on the Ath 
frequently m.ore are continually \o^^- \Mo7iday in every month: — Quarter- 
iog at Mattox bridge. The facilities /y in March, June, August and No- 
of commerce are so great with ihovember. 

District of Columbia, Baltimore,] Judge Lomax holds his Circuit 
Fredericksburg and other places, thatfSuperior Court of Law and Chance- 
no large village can ever be expeciedjry on the 2lst of April and \2ih Oc 
\o spring up here The neig;h.hoY-\t'ober. 



YORK. 

York was one of the eight original shires into which Virginia, was di- 
vided by the legislature, in 1634. It in bounded on the N. by York river, 
which separates it from Gloucester, E. by the Chesapeake bay, S. by Eliza- 
beth City and Warwick counties, and W. by James City county. Its mean 



EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK. 



293 



length is 26 ms. ; mean breath bf ms. ; and area 149 sq. ms. It extends in 
lat. from 37° 08', to 37° 23' N. and in long, from 0° 1 2', to 0° 46' E. of W. 
This county occupies nearly half of the peninsula which is formed by the 
near approach of the York and James rivers ; but the surface inclines to- 
wards the former, on which it lies. Much of the soil is good. Population 
in 1810, 5,187— in 1820, 14,380—1830, 5,334. York belongs to the 3rd 
judicial circuit, and 2nd district. Tax paid in 1833, $802 06 — in 1834, on 
lots, $31 69— on land, <!J 1,26 1 50—1,220 slaves, $305 00—365 horses, 
$33 90—5 studs, $20 00—12 coaches, $24 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—72 
gi^ $40 35. Total, $823 45. Expended in educating poor children in 
1832, $292 68— in 1833, $184 39. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Half-Way-House, p. O. 84 ms. 

S. E. by E. of R. and 187 ms. from 
W., situated in the eastern part of the 
county, about 12 ms. S. E. of the C. 
H. and half a mile from Poquosin ri- 
ver. There are at this place 5 build- 
ings, 2 of which are old stores, not 
occupied at present, 1 public house, 
and 1 excellent dwelling house. The 
land in the neighborhood is fertile, 
producing well the ordinary staples, 
corn, wheat, oats, &:c. The situation 
is pleasant and eligible, directly on the 
main stage road from Yorktown to 
Hampton 



scenery. Population 282 persons ; of 
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are re- 
gular physicians. 

Cotinty Courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the 24 M of 
April and September, by Judge Up- 
shur. 

Before closing Eastern Virginia it 
may be interesting to the reader to 
peruse a succinct account of the me- 
morable events which took place at 



YORKTOWN, P. V. Port of e?i-l the siege of Yorktown during the re 
try and seat of justice, 72 ms. S. E. volution, and which eventuated in the 
by E. of R. and 175 ms. S. S. E. ofl surrender of the whole of the English 
W. in lat. 37° 14', and long. 0° 30' armj% under the command of Lord 



E. of W. C, situated immediately on 
the right bank of York river, 1 1 ms. 
above its mouth, and 33 ms. N. W. 
from Norfolk. Yorktown suffered 
considerably from a fire which occur 



Cornwallis, to the combined Ameri- 
can and French army, under the com- 
mand of Washington, which was the 
closing scene of the American Avar, 
and the establishment of American 



red during the last war, when mosti independence, 
of the best buildings were destroyed, I'he following brief outline seems 
toget)ier with the old Episcopaljto have been taken from the journal 
church. The present number of of an American officer, engaged in 
houses, besides the county buildings,' the .scenes which he describes, and to 
are 40, — the most ofWhich are goinglhave been published in some peiiodi- 
fast to decay. It has several stores, 
1 house of public worship (Baptist,) 
1 school, in which are taught liie ru 
diments of English education, 1 tan- 
yard, 1 cabinet maker, 1 carriage ma 
ker, 1 house carpenter, and 3 black 
smith shops. Yorktown is pleasant 



cal about the year 1784 or 1785. 
Si eg." •",{ York and Gloucester. 
Sept. 15, 1781. — General Wash- 



ington arrived at Williamsburg; re- 
ceived the Marquis de la Fayette's 

^ , command, and count St. Simon's 

ly situated in an open country, having' troops, which had arrived the 30th of 
a beautiful view of land and water August, with count de Grasse, and 



2Si4 EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORIC 

landed at Jamestown the 3d instant, i sh — The light infantry relieved by 
21. — First division of the northern Wayne's division this evening. The 
army arrived in James's river. The.] redoubts completed this night, and 



23d and 24th almost the whole got m 
and landed. The 27th, the whole 
army moved, and encamped in a line, 
three quarters of a mile advanced off 
Williamsburg, distant from Yorktown 
11 miles. 

28. — Thg whole moved at day- 
light: after two halts, arrived within a 
mile and a half of the enemy's works; 
displayed and lay on our arms all 
night. Beaver pond creek, and mo- 
tass in our front, over which bridges 
were built that night: and general 
Muhlenbergh's brigade of light infan- 
try formed a picquet in advance. 
.. 29. — About sunrise moved to with- 
in three quarters of a mile of the ene- 
my's out-works, and displayed into 
two lines, a ravine in front, to view 
our ground; advanced small parties 
in front to cover our reconnoitering 
parties. At four, P. M. moved to our 
ground on the right, and encamped 
Avithin range of the enemy's artillery 
in two lines; advanced a line of pic- 
quets in front, and increased our camp 
guards. 

30. — The enemy fearing we should 
turn their left, and get between their 
out-works and the town, abandoned 
the whole of them, and retired to town 
a little before day-light, leaving a few 
lifjht horse to protect theit rear. 



filled with a proper number of troops- 
October 1 to 6. — Employed in pre- 
paring materials, getting up our artil- 
lery, &c. At six o'clock, moved on 
the ground, and opened our first pa- 
rallel, about six hundred yards from 
the enemy's works, under cover by 
day-light. No accident. Continued 
working till morning. 

7. — The light troops entered in line 
reversed, Avith drums beating, and co- 
lours flying; planted their standards 
on the top of tlie line of the parallel ; 
continued working on the batteries, 
which were completed about five 
o'clock. 

9. — P. M. the enemy received the 
first shot from us, which was contin- 
ued with spirit from cannon and mor- 
tars. The enemy's fire slackened. 
Several of their guns were dismount- 
ed: and they were obliged to fill up 
their entrenchments. 

10. — Light infantry mounted: and 
the Charon of 44 guns and two smaller 
vessels, were burned by som'fe hot 
shot from the left of the line, com- 
manded by count St. Simon. This 
happened about eight o'clock in the 
evening, the weather being serene and 
calm, and aflbrded an awful and me- 
lancholly sight. The Charon was on 
fire from the water's edge to her truck 



Colonel Scammel, being officer of thejat the same time. I never saw any 
day, advanced to reconnoitre and re-i thing so magnificent. 



port accordingly, when he was inter 
oepted, wounded and taken, by a few 
light horse, who had lain concealed. 
[He died of his wounds in six days. J 
Both lines were put in motion, and 
advanced with caution towards their 
works, suspecting some feint of the 



11. — In the evening, the second 
parallel opened by B. Steuben's di- 
vision. This parallel was carried on 
with amazing- rapiditj-, at 360 yards 
distance from the enemy's batteries, 
under a very heavy fire, the enemy's 
shot and shells directed at the work- 



enemy. Lay on our arms all that! men; our shot and shells going over 



night. The light infantry remainet 
on the ground, as a covering party to 
the fatigued men, busied in erecting a 
chain of redoubts to guard our camp, 



our heads in a continual blaze the 
whole night. The sight was beauti- 
fully tremendous. We lost but one 
man, shot by our own men, the gun 



and cover our working parties, who: not being sufficientl\' elevated, or 
were occupied in procuring mnieritils lirinn; fired wiih a bad cartridge 
for the siege 



EASTERN VIRGINL\— YORK. 



295 



12th, 13th, and 14th. Continued 
completing the batteries of the second 
parallel, and wounding their abattis. 
and frize-works with our shot and 
shells. About two o'clock, P. M. the 
out defences of two redoubts, that 
were advanced on their left 250 yards 
in their front, were thought sufficient- 
ly weakened, to attempt them that 
evening by storm. The light infan- 
try were relieved, and directed to re- 
fresh themselves with dinner and a 
nap. About dusk, they moved on, 
under the Marquis, and were in pos- 
session of one, in nine minutes. The 
other was carried by the French 
grenadiers and light infantry, under 
baron Viomenil, nearly about the 
same time, when the second parallel 
was continued on, and enveloped these 
two redoubts, and finished a line ot 
communication between the rights of 
the first and second parallel of up- 
Avards of a mile, before day-light next 
morning. The whole of this was 
performed under a very incessant and 
heavy fire from the enemy, with 
amazing steadiness and expedition. 

15. — Employed in repairing the 
redoubts, and erecting batteries, now 
within reach of the enemy's grape, 
rifle and wall-pieces. 

16. — This night, a timid, ill con- 
ducted sortie was attempted under 
lieutenant-colonel Abercrombie, with 
about six hundred men. They en- 
tered the parallel about the centre, 
nearly between the French and Ame- 
rican troops, at a battery erecting by 
the Americans, not completed. They 
killed a sarjeant and two privates of 
captain Savage's company of artillery : 
spiked six guns with the end of their 
bayonets, which they broke ofT in the 
vent-holes; turned about ; and went oft 
with the greatest precipitation. In 
their retreat, they were pursued, and 
lost twelve men — six killed, four 
wounded, two taken: the light infan- 



17. — Light infantry still in the 
trenches. Between ten and eleven, 
A. M. chamade beat, and propositions 
for surrender sent out by his lordship: 
received by the Marquis, and for- 
warded to head-quarters. Cessation 
of firing about twenty minutes, till 
flag had returned within their works. 
On our resuming the fire, a second 
chamade beat: and the officer return- 
ing, was told that the answer, as soon 
as received from head-quarters, would 
be forwarded. The firing on both 
sides re-commenced, and went on as 
usual, only small intermissions, du- 
ring the passing of two or three let- 
ters from each side. Light infantry 
relieved by the baron Steuben's divis- 
ion : and the business being concluded 
that evening, the firing ceased about 
five o'clock, P. M. The 18th and 
part of the 19tb, taken up in adjusting 
matters, viz. articles of capitulation, 
public letters, &c. 

19. P. M. — They marched out and 
laid down their arms. The whole of 
the king's troop, including sailors and 
marines, amounted to 8,054, officers 
included. 

Thus ended this business, in nine 
days from our breaking ground. 

The whole of our strength, includ- 
ing every person that drew provisions 
by the commissary-general's return, 
amounted to 12,200. Our loss was 
324 killed, wounded and died in the 
hospital; sick in the hospital about 
600; unfit for duty, 830. So that 
when the necessary detail of the whole 
army was completed, his lordship was 
never opposed by more than an equal 
number. Very frequently, from our 
great fatigue, parties at a considerable 
distance from the camp, and trenches 
two miles, had he come out to us, we 
could have opposed him with but 
very few more than two thirds of his 
number. This, I believe, Avill be al- 
lowed by any officer of discernment, 



try in the trenches. Lord Cornwal- who was acquainted with the details 
lis, in his account of the matter, saysiof the victorious combined army, 
our loss was upwards of 100. ; 



^^. 



WESTERN VIRGIMIA, 



INTRODUCTION. 

Perhaps no section of country of the same extent, possesses greater 
natural advantages than that portion of the State of Virginia westward of 
the Blue Ridge Mountain. Possessed of a climate the most salubrious 
and invigorating, and a soil happily adapted to the production of almost 
every thing useful to man, nothing is wanting but industry to render this 
one of the fairest agricultural portions of the globe. The vallies of the 
Shenandoah, the Upper James river, the Kanawha and Holston, found in 
this portion of the commonwealth, present a field almost unrivalled for the 
exertions of an industrious and enterprising population. Some of these 
as yet, are comparatively unreclaimed and in a state of nature; but the time 
is not distant, when under the invigorating influence of wise atid salutary 
regulations, they will be seen teeming with the products of enterprise and 
industry. But Western Virginia is not remarkable only for agricultural 
advantages. Her fossil and mineral wealth is no where equaled; iron, 
lead, gypsum, coal, and salt, are found in different places in this regton, 
some of which have already become a fruitful source of commerce and of 
wealth. Other and similar sources of wealth may still be buried and con- 
cealed from the eye of man in our extensive forest regions. The salt of 
the Kanawha and Holston, after supplying the home consumption, is 
already an article of extensive and profitable commerce upon most of the 
western waters. The iron of the valley, the excellence of which is readily 
admitted, would soon become a staple of commerce and a source of wealth, 
to that section, did the improvements of the country supply the required 
facilities for the transportation of so cumbersome an article. These enu- 
raeratedj manufactures, though already claiming notice from their conse- 
quence, are to be regarded as yet in their infancy, compared with the rank 
ttiey will hereafter attain, in numbers and extent, should the increasing" 
commerce and enterprise of the countr]/ call forth their resources. With 
the exception of the commercial channels which nature has provided as 
outlets for them, our productions, whether manufactured or agricultural, 
are and must be limited to a narrow region of country snrrounding them. 
This will continue to be the case until the country becomes aroused to the 
necessity of following the example of our sister communities, in opening 
additional and much needed lines of commercial intercourse. 
38 



398 WESTERN VIRGINIA— INTRODUCTION 

Had nature been even more bountiful than she has to this favored region, 
still if her gifts are neglected or unimproved, no benefits result to the 
community. Such is in fact the condition of Western Virginia. We possess 
natural advantages in abundance, every thing for skill and enterprise and 
industry to work upon, but no corresponding results such as are elsewhere 
exhibited, are any where seen. 

This state of things merits an attentive consideration and demands an 
adequate remedy. Let the citizens of Western Virginia arouse themselves, 
and harmoniously unite in efforts to improve their condition and bring into 
active and profitable exercise the numerous discovered and undiscovered 
sources of wealth with which our country abounds. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION, 



This division of the commonwealth, as recognized by the constitution of 
1830, extends from the Blue Ridge to the Ohio, and contains forty-five 
counties, \XJith an area of 38,900 square miles, equal to 24,896,000 acres. 
The population in 1830, was 378,475, of which the free inhabitants num- 
bered 324,988, and the slaves 53,437 — shewing an increase of nearly 25 
per cent in the first class, and nearly 24 per cent in the second, within the 
preceding ten years. 

This sparse population of less than ten souls to a square mile, is not 
owing to either a want of salubrity in the climate, or of fertility in the soil, 
but to adventitious causes which time is progressively removing. The 
early policy of the general government in bringing large bodies of the 
public domain into market, at very low prices, and on long credits, with 
the recent diminution of three-eights of the former prices placed on those 
lands, have exercised a very important control over the settlement and con- 
sequent improvement of this part of Virginia. The nearer districts of 
level and fertile land in the New States, are however receiving a sufficient 
population to give increased value to the soil, and the government sales at 
more distant points become less sensibly feJt ; but should the threatening 
efforts now making to employ the Public Lands as a bounty to draw off 
the inhabitants of the old States, by giving new homes to all who will 
occupy them, at merely nominal prices, prove successful, no portion of 
the original states will feel the effects more sensibly than Virginia, and par- 
ticularly the district under consideration. The retarded population of the 
western counties, has also been owing in some measure to the unsettled 
state of the land titles ; an evil which recent legislation has gone far to 
remove. By an act of the 5th of February, 1831, the limitation in writs 
of right is reduced to twenty-five years : and in actions of ejectment, to 
fifteen years: and by an act of the 10th of March, 1832, a lein is given on 
lands, in favor of tlie occupant thereof, for the value of the improvements 
which may be made thereon, before notice of the adverse title. The first 
of these laws gives safety and security to the great body of the land-hold- 
ers, and the second gives full remuneration for all the improvements in the 
event of an eviction ; thej'' were called for by the condition of the country, 
and will no doubt give confidence to future immigrants, as well as invigo- 
rate the mdustry of the present inhabitants. No climate can be more 
favorable to health and longevity ; the temperate latitude and elevation of 
the country; protect it in a great measure from the extremes of heat and 
cold, and when they occur, they are very rarely of inconvenient duration. 

The face of the country presents an uneven surface, owing to the ranges 
of mountains which intersect it from the northeast to the southwest, and 



bOO GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

which occupy much of the territory from the North moimtain, and skirts 
the large limestone valley of Virginia, to the Cumberland and Laural Hill 
chain. These mountains rise from two to three thousand feet above the 
ocean, but are neither sterile, or unusually steep; on tlie contrary they are 
generally covered with the finest timber, and abound with kinds denoting 
high fertility ; the vallies are frequently extensive, and present to the eye 
the most beautiful and majestic scenery. The soil of this district consists 
of almost every variety. The great limestone valley of Virginia, extend- 
ing from the Potomac to the county of Montgomery, near two hundred and 
fifty miles in length, and from twenty to forty miles in width, is perhftpK 
not surpassed in the abundance and variety of its agricultural products, by 
any district of the same extent in the Atlantic States. 

From the North mountain, to the western chain ot the Alleghanies, formed 
bv the continuing Imks between the Cumberland and the Laurel mountains of 
Pennsylvania, the country presents a series of ridges and vpell Avatered 
vallies, the latter generally rich, and the former not unfrequently offering 
easy slopes to cultivation and for pasture. Along the summit of the mid- 
dle range much high table land is found, and considerable portions of it 
free from timber, and covered with grass. Some of those natural meadow^s 
are of large extent, and serve as pasture for numerous herds of horned 
cattle. Although the v/estern division of Virginia may throughout be em- 
phatically denominated a grass country, yet it no where else equals the abun- 
dant and nutricious productions annually displaj^ed upon those elevated table 
lands, and whether the grazing farm is prepared by enclosing and reclaim- 
ing the natural meadows; or by freeing the ground of its forest trees, the 
product is equally certain and ab\indant. The country extending from the 
Cumberland and Laurel range of mountains to the Ohia river, is generally 
broken ; but interspersed with extensive districts of land sufficiently level 
for agricultural purposes, and of which industry is annually bringing large 
portions into cuhure. :'\. '•' ' ',- - ■t-> ■ 

The Ohio and Potomac* is ^te\'\ as their large tributaries, are proverbial 
for the rich alluvial lands which border those streams. These bodies of 
very fertile and almost inexhaustible low grounds, vary in width- from a 
few hundred yards to one and two miles. Sufficiently undulating to pass 
the water from their surface, and generally elevated above the freshets to 
which the western rivers are liable. These alluvial tracts are admirably 
adapted to the culture of hemp, tobacco, Indian corrit and turnips, and after 
a few years yield very fine crops' of vvheat, barley, rye, oats, potatoes, -&c. 
The upland as before remarked, is frequently rough and broken, but gene- 
rally not so much so, as to prevent its employment in cultivation and pas- 
ture, when advancing population shall require its use for those purposes; 
the highest and steepest hills are well adapted to the growth and produc- 
tion of many of the most valuable species of the grape, and on their sides 
the mulberry flourishes with peculiar vigor, it may not therefore be unrea- 
sonable to anticipate the time, when wine and silk will be prominent arti- 
cles of the export from this region of country. 

The principal agricultural prodtiicts'of the western district of Virginia, 
at this time, are wheat, rye, oats, barley, buck wheat, hemp, flax, tobacco 
and corn, with abundant supplies of indigenous and exotic grapes. Th-e 
grazing and feeding farms, which stand next in importance, export annual- 
ly a large amount in neat cattle, horses, mules, hogs and sheep, besides 
beef, bacon, lard, butter and wool. Of the products of the forest, the west- 



WESTERN VIRGIN] A. 301 

-«rn" counties furnish much the larger portion, consisting of gensang, fur, 
peltries, venison hams, staves, limber, plank, and cord wood on the rivers 
navigated with steamboats. The manufactories, although in their infancy, 
yield considerable supplies to other States, in flour, salt, leather, and former- 
•ly of lead. 

-: " Mountains are the mothers of minerals," and the country from the 
B!ue Ridge to the Ohio river, fully verifies the truth of the aphorism. Al- 
though this district has as yet, but slightly attracted the notice of the scien- 
tiiic mineralogist, many of these useful metals and fossils have been 
jti^iSeovered, and in some instances brought into extensive use. Iron is 
found in abundance on the waters of the Potomac, Shenandoah, James, 
Jackson and the Roanoke rivers, and at many places on the upper branches 
of those streams, is manufactured to great extent, and with corresponding 
advantage ; on New river, or the Upper Kanawha and its tributaries, this 
valuable mineral abounds, and of the best qualities; it is also found in very 
encouraging quantities and exhibiting line appearances, convenient to the 
waters of the Great and Little Kanawhas, Monongahela, Elk, Gauley, 
Guyandotte and Sandy rivers. The ores which have been discovered, pre- 
sent almost every variety, but those apparently most abundant, are the com- 
pact brown ore, the brown hematite, and specular ores. 

The salt district of Virginia, passing west of the Alleghany range, and 
nearly in a parallel course with those mountains, furnishes this important 
article in greater or less abundance, in the counties of Harrison, Lewis, 
Kanawha and Washington. In the two latter counties, however, are situ- 
ated the principal manufactories ; that of Kanawha, supplying about one 
million and a half of bushels per annum, and the W^ashington works about 
100,000. An analysis of the Kanawha water, gives 35 mur. of lime — 2 
car. of iron — I free car. acid — 56 chloride of sodium and bromide of cal- 
cium — and 956 moisture. 

The water used in the manufactory of salt in the county of Washing- 
ton, contains less of the muriate, and more of ihe sulphate of lime, and a 
larger portion of the chloride of sodium. Lead of considerable quanthies 
was long since discovered in the county of Wythe, and was formerly much 
u.sed in commerce, but owing to the expensive land carriage Avhich had to 
be encountered in conveying it to market, and to the opening lead mines 
more favorably situated on the Mississippi, those of Wythe have in a great 
measure fallen into disuse. 

Extensive beds of exifrangible gypsum are found on the upper branches 
of the Holston, but are comparatively useless from the want of convenient 
and cheap lines of transportation ; and the same remark applies to the 
quarries of verji- superior buhr stone, situated near Christiansburgh, in the 
county of Montgomery. 

The coal formation of the western part of Virginia, is limited on the 
Kentucky border, to the country lying between the Cumberland range, and 
the Ohio river — extending to the northeast, the coal district spreads from 
the Ohio, as far eastwardly as the neighborhood of Westernport on the 
Potomac. Throughout this entire tract of country, bituminous coal pre- 
sents itself in great abundance, in beds varying in thickness, from a few^ 
inches to 12 and 15 feet; attended every where by micacious -sand-stone, 
conglomerate rocks, and clay slate, the latter abounding in vegetable im- 
pressions. At the salt wells on the Great Kanawha, as well as at many 
natural springs within the coal region, naptha is found floating on the suj* 



302 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

face of the water in considerable quamilies. Anthracite Coal, to which 
Pennsylvania is indebted for the rapid extension of many ot her important 
manufactories, as well as the great enlargement of her interior commerce, 
has been recently discovered in the counties of Berkley and Morgan. 
Still more recent researches have ascertained the existence of this valuable 
mineral, apparently in extensive bodies, in the counties of Rockingham 
and Augusta, from which it is probable that the great Valley of Vir- 
ginia will ere long become as celebrated for the extent of its manufactories 
as it is now proverbial for its large agricuhural products. ■' 

As this district undergoes more thorough examination, and its mine**! 
resources become further developed, it will probably disclose as extensive 
masses of iron and coal in the same vicinities, as now distinguish South 
Wales ; and although the bituminous coal may contain more volatile matter, 
and less charcoal, than the Welch furnace coal, the value of the tar and 
pitch which it will yield, may more than compensate for the comparative 
deficiency of carbon. 

No quarter of the world presents a greater variety of mineral waters, 
than this portion of Virginia. Medicinal springs are almost as numerous 
as the counties, but it will suffice to notice those which have attracted the 
greatest share of public consideration, and which receive annually the 
greatest number of visitors. In the large limestone valley immediately 
west of the Blue Ridge, are tlie Berkley and Morgan springs, the Shenan- 
doah springs, the Augusta springs, and the Botetourt springs. They are 
usually attended by a respectable number ot visitors, and the medicinal 
effects of the waters have given some reputation to each of those fountains. 
The county of Bath is distinguished by the Warm and Hot springs, situ- 
ated within five miles of each other, and upon the principal road leadi»^ 
east and west, through Virginia, the great bath at the Warm Springs is 
universally admired by all who have enjoyed the luxury of its tepid and 
buoyant waters. 

This copious fountain of hydrosulphurous water, vises within the walls 
of the bath, and preserves a uniform temperature of 9G° of Fr. The bathS^ 
of the Hot springs differ in temperature, from 51° to 107°, and belong to 
the thermal saline class. These fountains may be justly placed at the 
head of the thermal waters of the United States, and from their use, the 
happiest effects have been produced in cases of chronic rheumatism and 
hepatic affections of long standing. 

In the adjoinmg counties of Greenbrier and Monroe, ate situated the 
White Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, and the Red Sulphur Springs; they &re 
classed as cold hydrosulphurous waters; the first is peculiarly distinguish- 
ed for efficacy in cases familiarly denominated bilious and liver complaints ; 
the second for the removal of dyspepsia, and all affections of the stomach, 
whether connected with the state of the liver or not: the third has a high 
reputation fiom the peculiar influence which its waters exercise over pul- 
monary affections. 

The Sweet Springs are also in the county of Monroe, near the eastern 
base of the Alleghany. This fountain, like the Berkley springs, is cold, 
acidulous or carborated, and yields a copious stream of the temperature of 
73° of Fr. The Sweet springs have acquired a fashionable and well 
merited celebrity ; the water is believed to be particularly serviceable in 
the variety of the dj^spepsia, accompanied by gastrodynia or spasm. In 
secondary debility of the digestive cimnl, from the exhausting heat.? of sum- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA. 303 

mer, or in chronic diarrhea or dysentery, without fever, or not sustained by 
hepatic inflammation, the internal use of these waters have produced the 
happiest effects. These highly valuable fountains of health are so con- 
veniently situated as to enable the visitors to alternate their use, with great 
advantage and satisfaction ; and the several proprietors have so extended 
their means of accommodating company, and added so many comforts and 
beauties to their respective establishments, that they are now annually at- 
tended by a large concourse of fashionable people from the valley of the 
Mississippi, and from the middle and southern States, as well as by inva- 
li4s from almost every quarter of the Union. A Spring on Muddy 
creek, in Greenbrier county, heretofore visited by but few persons, as the 
accommodations have been very limited, is beginning to attract much pub- 
lic interest from the highly salutary influence which the waters have pro- 
duced in aggravated cases of scrofula. The favorable results experienced 
by persons suffering under this afflicting and inscrutable disease, induced 
a number of gentlemen in 1833, to unite in the purchase and improvement 
of the property; and measures are now in progress for erecting extensive 
and convenient buildings, and for giving to this spring as many attractions 
as are found at the most fashionable medicinal fountains. 

Many natural curiosities of an interesting character are to be found be; 
tween the Blue Ridge and the Ohio. Those most known are Weyer's 
and Madison's Caves, near the Shenandoah river, and about two miles from 
Port Republic. These wonderful caverns are both subterranean openings 
in the same limestone hill. The first has been explored to the distance of 
900 yards, and the latter has been penetrated to the depth of 120 yards. 
Madison's cave has been much disfigured by the manufacture of salt- 
{HStre, to which it was for some time appropriated. Weyer's cave is how- 
ever in a fine state of preservation ; the entrance is narrow, but the cavern 
enlarges as it advances under the hill, until some of the apartments present 
an extent of floor equal to 300 by 200 feet, with majestic ceiling springiiig 
to the height of 80 and 90 feet. The drippings of this cave are not suf- 
^ient to affect the lights which are necessary to its examination, or to in- 
commode the visitors. The deposits of lime dissolved in the water, forms 
stalactites of almost every shape, and of every variety of beauty — curtains 
descending in wave-like folds from the ceiling to the floor — plain and 
■fluted columns — colonades, various resemblances of household furniture, 
and marble statues, which require but little imagination to give them fair 
proportions, and the habiliments of the ancient Romans, are among the 
pleasing objects with which the sight of the visitor is regaled ; the colors 
are for the most part white, but sometimes red, and occasionally variegated. 
When illuminated, the cave presents one of the most magnificent scenes in 
nature. There are two other caves in this limestone district that arc as yet 
but little known, but are said to be equal if not superior in beauty and 
magnificence to Weyer's cave. One of these is called Allen's Cave — the 
other is near the top of a small mountain called Cave Hill, situated one 
mile west of Luray, (county seat of Page.) Allen's cave is situated in 
Shenandoah county, a short distance from Front Royal. Descriptions of 
these caves will be found in the counties in which they are located. 

The Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek, in the county of Rockbridge, 
which- rises 270 feet; the Natural Tunnel, in Scott county, and the grand 
and majestic scenery at and around Harper's Ferry, attract visiters from 
considerable distances. The Blowing cave, near the Cow Pasture river, 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

which constantly sends forth a strong current of air : and the ebbing and 
flowing, or Syphon spring, on the estate of the late Capt. John Lewis, in 
the same valley, are objects of examination with most of the investigating 
travellers who visit that part of the State. On the low grounds of the 
Great Kanawha, about seven miles above Charleston, are several fissures 
in the earth through which constant streams of carburetted hydrogen gas 
are discharged. These are called burning springs, as the earth is so de- 
pressed around them as to collect and retain the water in ordinary seasons, 
and which is kept in active ebulition by the gas which is discharged 
through it ; when inflamed, this gas burns with a pale blaze at the surface 
of the watei*, when it mixes with the atmosphere, until it is extinguished 
by a strong current of air. This is by no means a rare production of 
nature in this district, as considerable issues of it are found on Big Sandy, 
and Little Kanawha rivers, and in boring for salt water on the Great Ka- 
nawha, the di.scharges of carbureted hydrogen have been so great and con- 
tinued, as to compel in one instance, the abandonment of the work. 

That part of the Great Kanawha which is above the mouth of Gauley, 
having to search its intricate way, and force its passage through a chain of 
lofty and rugged moimtains, exhibits a series of the most stupendous cliffs 
from the mouth of Greenbrier to Gauley river, particularly where Gauley 
mountain is riven to its base by this stream in its passage to the Ohio ; at 
this point, and near the great western turnpike, those cliffs present them- 
selves frequently to the eye of the traveller in majestic grandeur. One of 
the most lofty and perpendicular was formerly designated by a hawk's nest 
on its side, but is now called " Marshall's Pillar," commemorative of the 
laborious and perilous voyage of the Chief Justice in his examination of 
this river in 1812. From the flat rock forming the summit, to the agitated 
waters below, the view is fearfully grand : few of the many vi^ho visit it, 
can look over this dizzy height but in a reclining position ; the ele\'ation is 
estimated by engineers at from 750 to 800 feet, but no actual admeasure- 
ment has yet been made. 

The sparse population of many parts of the country, has heretofore pro- 
duced its usual effects in relation to education ; schools however have been 
annually multiplying, and with the aid afforded by the literary fund, pri- 
mary instruction is generally diffused, and becoming more elevated in its 
range. Well organized academics are established in many of the coun- 
ties, and those of Frederick, Augusta, Washington, Greenbrier, Kanawha, 
and Harrison, particularly deserve notice. Washington College in Rock- 
bridge, justly ranks among the most useful and distinguished of the south- 
ern seminaries. It received a most serviceable addition to its funds by a 
devise from Gen'l George Washington, which was followed by a be- 
quest of a large estate from Mr. John Robinson, one of its early patrons, 
and more recently a donation of the funds of the Cincinnati society of 
Virginia. Thus liberally founded, and supplied with able professors, 
this institution contributes largely to the learning and intelligence of the 
country. 

Commercial roads and navigable canals are greatly wanted. As yet the 
government of Virginia has comparatively done but little towards improv- 
ing the rivers and roads of this district. Among the Avorks constructed 
under the direction of the State, is the James and Kanawha turnpike, 
leading from Covington to the town of Guyandotte on the Ohio, and to 
•the mouth of Big Sandy river. This road passes by, or near, the principal 



- WESTERN VIRGINIA. 305 

mineral springs west of the Alleghany ; the work is approaching comple- 
tion on the western end, and its extension is in progress eastward by the 
Hot and Warm Springs to the town of Staunton in Augusta. Incomplete 
as the work is, this road forms one of tlie most important avenues of inter- 
course between the eastern and western waters ; it is much used in ordi- 
nary travelling, and in the transportation of property; and at this time 
daily lines of stage coaches find full employment upon the route. They 
are connected in the conveyance of passengers with the steam boats of the 
Ohio, and those of the James and Potomac rivers. On the western end, 
even this provision for the accommodation of passengers, has been found 
insufficient, and a tri-weekly line has been added between the Ohio river 
and the White Sulphur Springs, during the visiting season. Under the 
direction, and with the funds of the State, a like road has been located from 
Winchester to Parkersburgh, on the Ohio, which when finished will con- 
fer important advantages on the northwest counties. 

To a joint stock company aided by the State, the Valley of Virginia 
has been much indebted for the improvement of the navigation of Shenan- 
doah riv^er. The work undertaken by the company has been so far com- 
pleted, as to draw to that river an accession of trade which has increased 
'the tolls from $604 in 1827 to $7,691 in 1831 — continuing to improve 
with each succeeding j^ear. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, although 
passing up on the north side of the Potomac, confers important advantages 
on the northern border of the State, and will as it advances westward still 
further invigorate and extend the agricultural industry, and enlarge the 
commercial operations of the Virginia counties within its influence. 
These works undertaken, or fostered by the commonwealth, however use- 
ful, are but of minor character when compared with the important enter- 
prize on which the government of Virginia has long deliberated, of draw- 
ing a fertilizing portion of the commerce of the Western States, to her 
eastern cities. Of this enterprize^so long meditated and so fully discussed, we 
find the following account given in a memorial addressed to the General 
Assembly in 1826. " The Legislative Declaration, that next to the enjoy- 
ment of civil liberty itself, it might be questioned whether the best organ- 
ized government could assure to those for whom all governments are in- 
stituted, a greater blessing than an open, free and easy intercourse with 
one another, by good roads, navigable rivers, and canals ; that their ten- 
dency, by extending commerce, promoted the agriculture of a nation, and 
thereby augmented its wealth and population; — satisfied us that these 
great interests of Virginia were- no longer to be neglected, andthatas many 
of the other States were advancing in wealth and numbers with a rapidity 
which had astonished themselves, the ancient and elder sister of the Union 
would remove the reproach of her remaining stationary." 

"This manifest determination of the Legislature to improve the vast ad- 
vantages possessed by the commonwealth, seemed to be based on consid- 
erations of so fixed and durable a character, that but little doubt was en- 
tertained by your memorialist of the achievement of the great work of 
connecting the eastern and western waters of Virginia, by navigable canals 
and turnpike roads of the most permanent construction, when water con- 
veyance was unattainable, this measure had entered largely into the views 
of the proprietor of the land on which the City of Richmond and the town 
of Manchester now stands, and as early as the year 1767, was adverted 
to by that distinguished individual, in his preposition for the sale of the 
39 



305 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 

lols of those towns, in strong and prophetic terms. The practicability 
and vast advantag^fs of opening this line of communication to the western 
frontier of the middle colonies, were dwelt upon as matters of great inter- 
est to the future prosperity of Virginia. Our Washington was scarcely disen- 
gaged from the toils of the camp, when turning his capacious mind to the 
objects tending to promote and secure the public happiness, made a com- 
munication to Gov. Harrison, in which the incalculable importance of con- 
necting the eastern and western waters of Virginia, was enforced with 
zeal, and supported by considerations combining the present Avith the 
future, w^hich must have resulted in the immediate undertaking of the 
work, but for the exhausted state of the Treasury. Our venerable JefTer- 
son, partaking in the view of bis distinguished friend, and equally desirous 
of improving and exalting his native State, made an effort to secure to this 
great work the influence and active direction of the father of his country; 
deeming its magnitude sufHcient to invite his superintendence, and its com- 
pletion the happiest monument of his retirement." 

"The continued interest manifested by our citizens in almost every quar- 
ter of the State, and the improved condition of the Treasury, induced the 
Legislature in 1813-14 to organize a commission for exploring and re- 
porting on the practicability, utility and expense of effecting this long con- 
templated connexion, and for ascertaining the best means of securing to 
Virginia a due participation in the rich trade of the West. The report of 
oiir distinguished fellow-citizen, the Chief Justice of the United States, 
with that of other gentlemen designated with him to perform that duty, 
fully realized the previous anticipations, and furnished the strongest induce- 
ments for the execution of the Avork. The war with Great Britain, in 
•which we were then engaged, however, compelled its postponement. The 
conflict over, the government of Virginia resumed this interesting sub- 
ject, and after various examinations of all its details by the most experi- 
enced engineers, and with the fullest development of all its branches, by an 
act bearing date the 17th February 1820, determined upon the execution 
of the entire r\'ork, from the tide water of James river to the confluence of 
the Kanawha and Ohio, providing by law for the completion thereof in 
the following order. 1, To render the Great Kanawha navigable at all 
seasons of the year, for boats drawing three feet water, from the great falls 
to the Ohio river. 2dly. To improve the navigation of James river, from 
tide water to Pleasani's Island, by locks and navigable canals, affording at 
all seasons of the year, at least three feet depth of navigable water. 3dly 
To make the best road practicable, at an expense of $100,000, from the 
mouth.of Dunlap's creek, to the great falls of Kanawha. 4thly. To make 
navigable locks and canals, from Pleasani's Island to Dutilap's creek, fur- 
nishing at least the same depth of water for the entire distance. A mea- 
sure so important in its influence over the future destinies of the State; 
originating with the sages of the country, the fathers of the land; sustain- 
ed and approved by the Avisdorn of successive Legislative bodies; its prac- 
ticability demonstrated by the combined science of the best qualified engi- 
neers, could not but be regarded as irrevocably determined on ; the period 
of its completion to be hastened by all the resources of the commonwealth. 
Such Avere unquestionably the convictions of the Legislature of 1819-20, 
and of your memorialist." 

Notwithstanding the previous determination of the Legislature, and the 
strong inducements presented for reanimated action on the part of the gov- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA. 5# 

ernment, eight years of plans and deliberations have passed by. One 
project after another has been proposed, considered and abandoned, while 
two short sections of canal on the margin of James river, and the abortive 
attempt to improve the navigation of the Great Kanawha, remains the 
monument of that indecision and procrastinating policy, which has stripped 
the commonwealth of her elevation in the family of States, and is so rapid- 
ly sending her people to seek new homes, where the "blessings next to 
civil liberty" are not only proclaimed, but practically secured. While the 
pen is tracing these brief notes, the General Assembly is engaged in de- 
liberations upon this subject ; but whether their labors will result in another 
abortive attempt to put this work in progress, or in the provision of ade- 
quate means for its entire execution, on a scale of usefulness and durabili- 
ty, worthy of the ancient commonwealth, and commensurate to the advan- 
tages which it ought to confer on her sister States, is extremely doubtful.* 

If Virginia should ever resume this great work with ardor and reason- 
able unanimity ; and pursue it with constancy of purpose to its final com- 
pletion, it must produce a new era in her history, and entirely change the 
destiny which now seems to await her. 

Among the high considerations that so strongly prompt her to the em- 
ployment of her resources and credit in achieving this great work, the fol- 
lowing are perhaps the most prominent. 

The certain participation in a large portion of the commerce of the 
west, the value of which is attested by the expenditures and eflbrts of other 
States to become partakers. The development of her exhaustless mineral 
resources, and the consequent extension of important manufactories into 
every section of the country. The giving to her agricultural and planting 
interests the highest stimulus — the creation of a rich and fertilizing inte- 
rior commerce, sustaining in return the most extensive foreign trade. The 
rapid increase of her population with the comfort and wealth which must 
attend them — and the speedy and pernianeu,t advance in the value of the 
entire landed property of the State. Those of a political character are 
scarcely less important. Its connecting influence upon the States them- 
selves and upon the two great divisions of Virginia, now hanging but 
loosely together, must be apparent to all, and if the Union is ever destined 
to crumble, such a line of intercommunication, with the connections and 
associations to which it must give rise, cannot fail to unite in the same des- 
tinies, the southern States, and those of the Great Valley of the Missis- 
sippi. 

♦Since this was written, the Legislature passed the act allowing the patriotic and 
enterprising corporation of Richmond to take S"350,000, in addition to their previous 
subscription of 8400,000, and taking the remaining $500,000 for the State ; by which 
acts the whole amount of $5,000000 is subscribed, which was necessary to secure the 
charter of the James River and Kanawha Company, and the successful prosecution 
of this great work ensured. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA. 



AL.I.EGJHANY. 

Alleghany Avas created by the legl.vlaturc in 1822, and formed from 
portions of Bath, Bottetourt and Monroe. It is bounded N. by Bath and a 
small portion of Greenbrier, E. by Rockbridge and Bottetourt, S. by Mon- 
roe, and W. by Greenbrier; its mean length is 26 ms. ; mean breadth 20 ; 
and area 521 sq. ms. It lies between lat. 37° 35', and 38° N. and the cen- 
tre about 3° W. long, from W. C. Most of this county is a high mountain 
valley, drained by the head waters of the James river. Pottos and Dun- 
lap's creeks rise in Monroe and flow N. E. until they unite Avith Jackson's 
river near Covington, about the centre of the county. Jaclcsoii's river rises 
in Pendleton, and flowing S. through Bath, enters Alleghany, passess the 
gap between Peter's and the Warm Spring mountains, receives Pott's creek 
from the S., and then turns first N. E. and then after turning the N. E. 
Hank of Rich Patch mountain, it flows S. E. into Bottetourt. Cow-Pas- 
ture river rises also in Pendleton, flows by a tortuous channel, nearly due 
S. through Bath and Alleghany, and unites with Jackson's river, toon after 
it passes into Bottetourt. These two rivers by their union constitute the 
James. Much of the surface of this county is covered with mountains; its 
mean level exceeds 10,000 ft. above the tides of the ocean. The maiii Al- 
leghany chain forms its boundary on the W. Peter^s mountain, and Warm 
Spring mountain divide the county into nearly two equal parts, having only 
a narrow gap at Covington. Pott or Middle mountain and Rich Patch, 
form its boundary on the S. E. Besides these continuous ranges, there 
are a number of others filling up the intervals, such as Oliver, Morris, 
Beard^s, 6lc. The staples of the county are grain, and its products gene- 
rally the same as other counties situated in the same latitude. Population 
in 1830, 2,816. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. 
Tax paid in 1833, $473 15— in 1834 on "lots, $39 26— on land, $273 42 
—348 slaves, $87 00—926 horses, $55 56—2 studs, $13 00—7 coaches, 
$12 00— 5 carryalls, $5 00— 2 gigs, $1 00. Total, $488 24. Expended 
in educating poor children in 1832, $87 00— in 1833, $166 47. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Cal.\han's P. O. 196 ms. from R. confluence with the Cow Pasture, 
and 238 ms. from W., situated at the and directly opposite the termination 
junction of roads leading to the of the Jvanawha turnpike road, it 
Warm, Sweet and White Sulphur contains besides the county buildings, 
Springs. 50 dwelling houses, and about the 

COVINGTON, P. V. and Seat same number of mechanic shops. 
o/Jws^ice, 191 ms. W. of R. and 233; The buildings are principally of 
S. W. of W. Covington is situated at, brick, and in some of them much taste 
the head of the James river navigation I is displayed; 2 handsome and spa- 
on Jackson's river, 15 ms. above its cious houses of public worship are 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ALLEGHANY. 



509 



about being erected, (I Presbyterian 
and 1 Methodist,) I English and 
Classical school, and 3 mercantile 
stores. The mechanics are tanners, 
saddlers, boot and shoe makers, hat- 
ters, tailors, gunsmiths, house carpen- 
ters, cabinet makers, wagon makers, 
copper smiths, chair makers, black- 
smiths and last makers. Its situation 
is handsome and eligible, on one of 
the greatest thoroughfares in Virgin- 
ia, as travellers from E. to W. pass 
through this place to the Virginia 
Springs, it being nearly equi-distant 
from several, viz : — 20 ms. from the 
White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet 
Springs, 25 from the Hot Springs, 27 
from the Warm Springs and 4.5 from 
the Salt Sulphur. Should the con- 
templated .Tames and Kanawha im- 
provements be carried into operation, 
Covington may become one of the 
most flourishing inland towns in Vir- 
ginia, as it will probably be the place 
of depot between the land and Avater 
communication; and it likewise Avill 



command the trade of a large and fer- 
tile region of country, which abounds 
in all the products of the earth; and 
the mountains, of which abound in 
iron, and present sufficient water 
power, to force any quantity of ma- 
chinery. Its situation is healthy, 
being located in the midst of the 
mountains. Property in this place 
has lately advanced 25 per cent in 
anticipation of the contemplated im- 
provement. Population about 300 
persons; of which 3 are attorneys, 
and 2 regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 
3cl Mo7ulay in every month. Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 18//i of April and Sep- 
temher. 

Jackson River, P. O. 178 ms. N. 
of R. and 221 S. W. by W. of W. 

Morris Hill, P. O. 184 ms. W. 
of R. and 227 from W. 



AUGUSTA. 



Augusta county was originally a portion of Orange county and contin- 
ued so, until it became sufficiently populous to claim the rigiits of a sepa- 
rate, independent county, which rank was given to it in 1738. The first 
court after it was laid off from Orange was held in Staunton, in the year 
1745, and its jurisdiction extended from the summit of the Blue Ridge to 
the Ohio river, including the present state of Kentucky, and from the James 
river to Frederick. 

As the population increased, it became necessary to divide this immense 
tract into various counties, at different times, until it assumed its present 
shape and size in the year 1790. 

The summit of the Blue Ridge forms the eastern boundary, until it strikes 
the line of Rockbridge, the line then runs a straight course in a N. E. di- 
rection, crossing the North mountain, until it reaches the summit of Walk- 
er's mountain, following this and the Cow Pasture mountain in a N, W. 
course, it strikes the corner of Rockingham, and runs thence in a S. W. 
direction, a straight course to the Blue Ridge. 

The length of Augusta county is about 34 ms. ; the breadth 35, — and its 
area about 348 sq. ms. extending entirely across the Valley. The surface is 
generally uneven, — in many places hilly ; and in some instances it rises 
into eminences that deserve the name of mountains. Towards the north- 
ern boundary, however, it spreads out into more extensive bottoms of very. 



ata WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 

rich and fertile laud. The soil is best adapted to agriculture and grazino-. 
Large quantities of grain are raised for exportation, and there are within 
ihe county, 17 nmerchant mills, which are almost exclusively employed in 
manufacturing flour for this purpose. . Cattle are also exported in conside- 
rable numbers. 

Although this county is well watered and abounds in fine springs, there 
are no very large streams, from the fact, that it is the highest land in the 
Valley, and divides the head waters of the James and Shenandoah rivers. 

The great Calf Pasture river runs through nearly half of the county, 
and wends its way in a S direction to the James river, while the north, 
middle and south rivers, (the last two of which run nearly through the 
whole extent of the county) meet near the northern boundary, and form the 
Shenandoah. Christian's and Lewis' creeks are branches of the Middle 
river, and Mossy creek of the N. These streams are all valuable, on ac- 
count of numerous mill seats upon them, which are always abundantly sup- 
plied with water. 

The mineral treasures of this county, have been but partially developed. 
Very little interest has been felt on this subject, except so far as it has been 
quickened by a hope of gain. Iron ore beds have been known and profita- 
bly worked for many years ; and there is at present a furnace for the manu- 
facturing and casting of iron in active operation; Miller's Iron Works, 
near the northern boundary, at the foot of the North mountain. 

Anthracite coal has lately been found in the vicinity of the Augusta 
Springs, and along the North mountain. It contains a portion of sulphur, 
though it becomes more pure as the excavation progresses, and gives pro- 
mise of aflbrding an abundant supply of this valuable mineral. 

The predominant rock in this part of the Valley is lime rock, which in 
some places is sufficiently hard to be used as marble, though it is not Avorked 
as such. In connection with this rock may be found rhombic chrystals of 
carbonite of lime, and dog-tooth spar: the latter rarely. In the vicinity of 
Staunton, a species of calcedony in great quantities is scattered about: some 
o( which is very pure. 

Springs are very abundant in all parts of the county, some of which are 
mineral and highly medicinal. 

The Augusta Springs are valuable, as a resort for invalids, and are daily 
becoming more noted. They are 12 ms. N. W. of Staunton, situated in a 
delightful country. The water is strongly impregnated with sulphuretted 
hydrogen, and are said by those who should be judges, to equal the cele- 
brated springs of Harrowgate, in England. Besides the Augusta Springs 
there are two other Sulphur Springs in the county, both of which are equal- 
ly strongly impregnated; but there are few, if any accommodations for visi- 
tors at either of them. One is on the Free turnpike leading from Staunton to 
the Warm Springs, 17 ms. from S. : the other on the old road, 18 ms. from 
Staunton. 

A Chalybeate Spring has recently been discovered very near the Augus- 
ta Springs, but it has never been analyzed. 

About 12 ms. S. W. from Staunton, is a large spring that ebbs and flows 
daily; — there are two similar springs in Bath. 

The whole of Augusta county is based upon lime rock, — and from the 
nature of that rock, necessarily contains many curious fissures, excavation.s 
and caverns. Only two of those, however, de.serve a notice, Madison's and 
Wev^r'^ cave's whi.-li are both situatr-d in the same r\tlp-*\ and are but ;iOO 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 311 

yards apart. Madison's cave has been described by Jefferson,* in his notes 
on Virginia, but Weyer's has been described and explored since that time, 
and is far more worthy of being immortalized. The length of this this stu- 
pendous Cavern in a straight course is 1650 ft., but the distance is more than 
doubled by following the various windings. There are numerous apart- 
ments, some of which are magnificent. One measures 257 ft. in length, Irom 
10 to 20 in breadth, and 33 in height, — another is 153 ft. long, 15 wide, and 
60 high, while a third reaches the height of 100 feet! Every part is stud- 
ded with beautiful stalactites, that lead you almost to believe that you have 
descended into the jewelled fruit garden, where hung Alladin's lamp.f 

* We extract a portion of Mr. Jefferson's description which is referred to in the 
text, and give also some later information concerning Madisoii's Cave. " It is situat- 
ed on the N. side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and 
Augusta line, with the south fork of the southern river of Shenandoah. It is in a 
hill of about 200 ft, perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side is so steep 
that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base. 
The entrance of the cave, is in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends 
into the earth about 300 ft., branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending 
a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different 
places, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I should judge to be nearly 
on a level with the waters of the river ; however, I do not think they are formed by 
refluent waters from that, because they are never turbid; because they do not rise and 
fall in correspondence with that, in times of flood and of drought ; and because the 
Avater is always cool. It is as probably one of the many reservoirs with which the 
interior partsof the earth are supposed to abound, and which yield supplies to the 
fountains of water, distinguished from others only by its being accessible. The vault 
of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 of 50 ft. high, through which water is 
continually percolating. This, trickling down the sides of the cave, has encrusted them 
over in the form of elegant drapery ; and dripping from the top of the vaults generates 
on that, and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met 
and formed massive columns." 

Madison's Cave derives its name from the father of the late Bishop Madison, who 
resided near it, and who was equally famed for his hospitality, his practical wit, and 
his convivial disposition. It has been known 70 or 80 years, but is now little visited 
as a curiosity, — the earth in it, affords salt petre in proportion of from 2 to 4 pounds 
to the bushel.— 2000 weight WdS manufactured here during the years 1813-4. The 
earth when brought out is at the mouth of the cave put into a plank gutter which 
conducts it to the" bank of the river, at the bottom of the hill, where it is put into tubs 
or vats mixed with wood ashes — water is passed through it, and this is evaporated to 
salt by boiling. The lakes of water which are found at the extremity of the cave 
have been navigated by a boat, and thoroughly explored, since Mr. Jefferson wrote; 
they are 30 or 40 ft. deep, and are bounded on the furthest extremity by rocks so 
abrupt that a footing can no where be had. 

tWej-er's Cave is situated near the northern extremity of Augusta county, Va. 17 
ms. N. E. of Staunton, on the eastern side of a ridge running nearly N. and S. parallel 
to the Blue Ridge, and somewhat more than a mile distant from it. 

The western declivity of this ridge is very gradual, and the visiter, as he approach- 
es from that direction, little imagines from its appearance, that it embowels one of 
Nature's master pieces. The eastern declivity however, is quite precipitous and dif- 
ficult of ascent. 

The Guide's house is situated on the northern extremity of this ridge, and is distant 
800 yds. from the entrance of the cave. In going from the house to the cave, you 
pass the entrance of Madi.son's Cave, which is only 200 yds. from the other. Madi- 
ison's Cave was knoM-n and vi.sited as a curiosity, long before the discovery of Wey- 
er's, but it is noAV passed by and neglected, as unworthy of notice compared with its 
more imposing rival, although it has hnd the pen of a Jefierson to describe its beauties. 

The ascent from the bottom of the hill to the mouth of the cave is steep, but is ren- 
dered less fatiguing, by the zigzag course of the path, which is 12t) yds. in length. 

It seems thai about the year 1804, one Bernard Weyer ranged these hills, as a 
hunter; while pursuing his daily vocation, he found his match in a lawless Ground 
Hog, which not only eluded all his efforts but eventually succeeded in carrying off the 



312 WESTEiiN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 

Population in 1820, 16,742—1830, 19,926. Augusta belongs to the 
12th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $6659 24 — 
m 1834 on lots, $470 80— on land, $4,343 09—2,443 slaves, $610 75— 
9,360 horses, $561 00—48 studs, $421 00—78 coaches, $187 85— 1 
stage, $3 00— carryalls, $69 95—58 gigs, $39 15. Total, $6,717 19. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $883 59 — in 1833, $963 74. 

traps, which had been set for his capture. Enraged at the loss of his traps he made 
an assault upon the domicile of the drepredator, with .spade and nialtock. 

A few moments labor brought him to the ante-chamber of this stupendous cavern, 
where he foimd his traps safely deposited. 

The entrance originally was small and difficult of access; but the enterprise of the 
proprietor, has obviated these inconveniences: it is now enclosed by a wooden wall, 
having a door in its centre, which admits yovi to the ante-chamber. 

At first it is about 10 ft. in height but after proceeding a few yards, in a S. W. di- 
rection, it becomes contracted to the space of 4 ft. square. 

At the distance of 24 ft. from the entrance, — descending at an angle of 19 degrees ; 
you reach the Dragon's Room, so called from a stalactitic concretion, -which tlie No- 
menclator undoubtedly supposed to resemble that nondescript animal. 

Above the Dragon's room there is an opening of considerable beauty, but of small 
size, called the Devil's Gallery. 

Leaving this room, which is not very interesting, you proceed in a more southerly 
direction, to the entrance of Solomon'.s Temple, through a high but narrow pc^ssage, 
66 ft. in length, which is by no meaiis difficult of access. Here j^ou make a perpen- 
dicular descent of 13 ft. by means of substantial stairs securely fixed, and you find 
yourself in one of the finest rooms in the whole cave. It is irregular in shape, being 
30 ft. long, and 45 broad, running nearly at right angles to the main course of the 
cave. As you raise your ej'es, after descending the steps before mentioned they rest 
upon an elevated seat, surrounded by sparry incrustations, which sparkle beautifully 
in the light of your candles. 

This is not unaptly styled, Solomon's Throne. Every thing in this room , receives 
its name from the Wise Man ; immediately to the left of the steps, as j'ou descend, you 
will find his Meat-house; and at the eastern extremity of the room, is a beautiful pil- 
lar of white stalactite, somewhat defaced by the smoke of candles, called by his name, 
yet with strange inconsistency, an incrustation resembling falling water at the right 
of the steps, has obtained the name of the Falls of Niagara. 

Passing Solomon's Pillar, you enter another room, more irregular than the first, 
but still more beautiful; it would be impossible adequately to describe the magnifi- 
cence of the roof. I shall therefore merely observe that it is thickly studded with 
beautiful stalactites, resembling in form and color, the roots of radishes, which have 
given the appellation of Radish Room to this delightful place. 

The main passage to the rest of the cavern, is immediately opposite to the entrance 
to Solomon's Temple, and you reach it by an ascent of 13 ft. to what is called the 
Porter's Lodge. From this place, pursuing the same course, you pass along a pas- 
sage varying froirk.10 to 30 ft. in height, from 10 to 15 in breadth, and 50 in length, un- 
til you reach Barn'Sy's Hall which receives its name irom tlie fancied resemblance 
of a prostrate stalactite, at the base of one that is upright, to old Commodore Barney, 
and the cannon that he used at the Bladensburgh races. 

Near the centre of the room, which is small and scarcely deserves the name, an 
upright hoard points out to the visiter the main path of the cave, which runs to the 
right. Two passages run off to the left, — the first one to a large, irregular room cal- 
led the Lawver'.s Office, in which is a fine spring, of water or rather a reservoir 
where the droppings from the ceiling have collected, — the other, llirough a passage to 
what is called The Armory, from an inciustration that has received the name of 
Ajax's Shield. Between the Lawyer's Office and the Armory, and communicating 
with both, is another large, irregular apartment, which is named Wever'.s Hall, af- 
ter the original discoverer of the cave, who together with his dog, stands immortal- 
ized in one corner. 

Before we get bewildered and lost in this part of the cave, which is more intricate 
than any other, let us return to the guide-board in the centre of Barney's Hall, and 
pursue the route usually taken by visiters. Following the right hand opening men- 
tioned above, which is rather low being not more than 5 ft. in height, you pass into 
the Twin Room, taking heed lest you fall into the Devil's Bake Oven, which yawns 
close by your feet. This room is small, and communicates directly with the Bannis- 
ter Room, which is 59 ft. distant from the guide-board. The arch here suddenly ex- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 313 

TOWNS, VILLAGES. POST OFFICES, 6ic. 



Augusta Springs, P. O. 17 ms. 

N. N. W. of Staunton, 134 ms. N, W. 
by W. of R. and 176 from W. The 
waters have valuable medicinal qual- 



ities, which have been spoken of in 
cur account of the county. 

Deerfikld, p. O. 148 ms. from 
R. and 190 S. W. of W., situated on 



patids, and becomes elevated to the height of 30 ft., and by dint of hard climbing you 
inay return to the Porter's Lodge, through a passage directly over the one which you 
have just passed. There are many beauties in this upper passage. 

A descent of 39 ft. from the Twin Room, in a direction due west, brings you into 
the Tan Yard, which contains many beauties. The floor is irregular, in some places 
sinking into holes somewhat resembling tan-vats, which together with several hang- 
ing stalactites resembling hides, have given a name to tins immense apartment. On 
the S. E. side of the room, immediately to the left of the main path, is a large opening 
which admits you at once into the Armory, already mentioned. 

Changing your course to the N. W. you leave the Tan Yard, by a rough, but not 
difficult ascent of 20 ft., at an angle of 18 degrees, into what may be considered as an 
elevated continuation of the same room, but which has been deservedly dignified 
with a distinct appellation. 

To your right, as you step upon level ground, you will observe a perpendicular 
%vall of rock, rising with great regularity; if you strike upon it with your hand, it 
sends forth a deep, mellow .sound, strongly resembling the tones of a Bass Drum, 
whence the room has received the name of the Drum Room. Upon a closer exami- 
nation, this apparent wall will be found to be only a thm stalactitic partition, extend- 
ing from the ceiling to the floor. 

■ There is nothing else of much interest, in this apartment, we will proceed to the 
more magnificent portions of the cavern. 

You leave the Drum Room by a flight of natural stairs, 7 ft. in perpendicular 
height. A large opening now presents itself, which expands to an extensive apart- 
ment, to reach which it is necessary to make a nearly perpendicular descent of 10 
ft,, by means of a substantial pair of stairs. This apartment is the far famed Ball 
Room. It is 100 ft. long, 36 wide, and about 25 high, running at right angles to the 
path by which you entered it. 

The general course of the room is from N. to S: but at the northern extremity there 
is a gradual ascent, bearing round to the E. until you reach a precipice of 20 or 30 
ft., from which you can look down into the Tan Yard, having performed a complete 
circuit. 

Near the centre of the Ball Roam, is a large, calcarious deposite, that has received 
the name of Paganini's Statue, from the circumstance that it furnishes a good posi- 
tion for the music, whenever balls are given in these submundane regions. The 
floor is sufficiently level to admit of dancing upon it, and it is not imcommon, to have 
balls here. The ladies are accommodated with a very convenient Dressing Room, 
the only opening to which, communicates directly with the Ball Room. 

You leave this room, by a gradual ascent of 42 ft. at the southern extremity, simi- 
lar to the one already described at the other. This acclivity is called the French- 
man's Hill, from the following circumstance :— Some years since, a French gentle- 
man visited this cave, accompanied only by the guide; they had safely gone through, 
and returning had reached the top of this hill, when by some accident both of their 
lights were extinguished, and they were left in Egyptian darkness, without the means 
of re-lighting their candks. 

Fortunately the Guide, from his accurate knowledge of localities, was enabled to 
conduct him safely to the entrance — a distance of more than 500 ft. 

Another gentleman, by the name of Patterson, has immortalized his name by at- 
tcm-pting the same feat, although it was a complete failure. Hearing of the French- 
man's adventure, he undertook to find his way back to the entrance, from the Ball 
Room, without a light— sending his companv some distance ahead. He succeeded 
in ascending the stairs, but had proceeded onlv a few paces farther, when his feet 
slipped from under him, and he was prostrated into an aperture, where he lay unhurt 
until his companions, alarmed at his protracted absence, returned for him. His resid- 
ing place is called Patterson's Grave to this day. 

From the French Hill, a long, irregular passage extends, in a N. W. direction 
which is denominated the Narrow Passage. This passage is 52 ft. in length,— vary- 
ing from 3 to 5 ft. in width,— and from 4 to 8 ft. in height. It leads you to the brink 
oi a precipice, I'i ft. in height. 
40 



311 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



the waters of the Calf Pasture river, 
in the Calf Pasture Valley, between 
the North and Cow Pasture moun- 
tains, 4 ms. E. of the county line of 
Bath ; on the main stage road between 
Staunton and the Warm Springs, 26 



ms. W. of the former, and 29 E. of 
the latter. The Warm Springs and 
Harrisonburg turnpike also parses 
Deerfield. It contains a tavern^ mer- 
cantile store and blacksmith's shop. 
Greenville, P. V. 133 ms. N. 



Natural indentations in the face of this precipice, aflbrd a convenient means of de- 
scent and these natural steps have received the name of Jacob's Ladder. To corres- 
pond 'with this name, as in Solomon's Temple, every thing is named after the Patri- 
arch; a flat rock opposite to the extremity of the Narrow Passage, is Jacob'.s Tea 
Table; and a deep, inaccessible perforation in the rock, ly its side, is Jacob's Ice 
House! Descendmg the ladder you turn to the left, and pats through a narroM- open- 
in-^ still continuina: to descend though less perpendicularly, to the centre of a small 
ap^artment, called the Dungeon. The descent frcm the tcp of the Ladder to this 
place is 28 feet. 

This room communicates, by a passage about 4 ft. sq. with the Senate Chamber. 
A thin flat rock, stretches over nearly half of this apartment, which is only about 40 
ft. in diameter, at the height of 8 or 10 ft. from the floor, forming a .sort of Gallery, 
which doubtless craised the name already m.entioned, to be giA^en to the room. 

The Senate Chamber communicates by a high, broad opening, with a still larger 
apartment, denominated Congress Hall, 

This name must have been given, on account of its proximity to the last mentioned 
room, and not from, anything particularly appropriate in the room itself. It is Icng, 
and like the Bali Room, runs nearly at right angles to the main path,— its course being 
nearly N. and S. and a wall, having several openings, runs through its whole length. 
The main path winds to the left as you enter the room, but we will diverge a little to 
the right, and cxplcre the dark recess that presents itscif to view. 

The floor of Congress Hall is very uneven, and at the northern extremity rises 
somewhat abruptly. Climbing this ascent if you pass through one of the openings in 
the wall mentioned above, you will be able to see through the whole extent of the 
other half of the room, but it is impossible to traverse it, on occount of two or three 
deeii pits, that occupy the v/hole space between the v.all and the side of the room. 

Turning around to the right ol the opening through which you passed, your eye 
vainly attempts to penetrate the deep, dark abyss that presents itself, and you hesitate 
to descend, its name — The Infernal Recions, docs not offer many inducements to en- 
ter it, and for many years, it h^s been supposed to contain fixed air, so that visiters 
a,void it, and it has never until recently, been thoroughly explored. 

Our course nov^' Ues to the S. W. up a perpendicular ascent of 17 ft., to what is 
called the Lobby. From this place, an expert climber, well acquainted with the 
cave, may pass through secret passages, and bye rooms, to the end of the cave, with- 
out once entering the main path, but we will pursue the accustomed route. You 
have ascended to the Lobbj', only to descend again on the other side, after taking a 
few steps horizontally. A perpendicular descent of 17 fi., brings you to the most 
magnificent apartment in the whole cavern. 

This is Washington's Hall, so called in token of respect for the memory of cur 
Country's Father, and it is worthy of bearing the name. Its length is 257 ft., its 
breadth from 10 to 20 ft., and its height about 33 ft. being remarkably level and 
straight, through the whole length. 

Not far from the centre of this room, is an immense dcpositc of calcarious matter 
rising to the height of 6 or 7 ft. which, very strikingly resembles a statue clothed in 
drapery. This is Washington's Statue, and few can look upon it — as seen by the 
dim light of two or three candles which rather stimulate than repress curiosity, with- 
out experiencing a sensation of av\-e and solemnity, as if they were actually in the 
presence of the mighty dead. 

A few yards from the entrance, another room branches oft' to the left, to reach 
which you must ascend a bank of 5 or 6 ft. in height. This is called the Theatre, 
from the fact that diflerent parts of the room correspond to the Gallerv, Stage and 
Pit. 

- I have said that the breadth of Washington's Hall was from 10 to 30 ft.; this must 
be understood only of the lower pan of the room, for the arch stretches over a rock 
30 ft. high, which forms the left wall, and embraces another room called Lady Wash- 
ington's Hall. The entrance to this apartment, is opposite to the Statue, and is on 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. Bfi 



there is an extensive manufacturing 
flour mil! and a wollen manufactory. 
Two physicians reside in the vicini- 
ty. The town contains about 50 
dwelling houses, 3 general stores, 2 
taverns, 1 academy, 2 tanyards, 2 sad- 



W. by VV^ of R. and 175 from W. It 
is pleasantly situated in the southern 
part of the county, 1 1 ms. S. S. W. of 
Staunton, and within a mile and a 
half of the head of Soutli River, which 
runs through the town ; and on which 

the same level with the Hall. The wall that separates the two rooms, is several feet 
thick, and has received the .strange name of The Rock of Gibraltar. 

You leave this splendid apartment, at the S. W. extremity, by a rough, narrow but 
high passage, running at the foot of the Pyramids of Egypt and Cleopatra's Needle! 
•At the end of this pa.s3age, in a recess at the right, is another Spring or reservoir, not 
as large as the one in the Lawyer's Oifice. A de.scent of S or 10 ft. brings you info 
the Diamond Room, which may be considered as forming a part of The CiirRCH, a 
long, irregular room, more hjfty than any that we have yet entered. Its length is 153 
feet, its breadth from 10 to 15, and its height 50! 

At the farthest extremity, a beautiful white spire shoots up to a considerable height, 
which is appropriately styled The Steeple, and has, no doubt, suggested the name Qf 
the room. Nearly oppo'iitc to the centre oi lire Church, is a recess, raised sev3ral ft. 
of considerable extent. 

This forms a very gDod GiUory to the Church. Immediately in the rear of the 
G-illery, and in full view from below, is a great number of pe'iidant stalactites, of 
several ft. in length, and of various sizes ranged like the pipes of an organ, and ceaf- 
a striking resemlDlance to them. . ' ' ■ . 

If theie stalactites ar3 3tru-;k by any hard substance, they send forth sounds of.. va- 
rious pitches, according to their size, and a stick run rapidly along several of them 
at one, produce^;, a very pleasing variety of sounds. With great'^propriet}' this 'is 
called The Organ. 

Passing under the Steeple, which rests on an arch elevated not more than 10 feet, 
you enter the Diking Roo.m. This room is napied from a long natural table, that 
stands on the left side, and is not quite as large as -the Church, though its height is 60 
ft. Was it not for the kind of wall which the Steeple makes, it might be considered as 
a continuation of the Church, and its lenglh is therefore included in that of the 
Church. A little to th: left of the table is a small uninviting opening, proceeding 
only a few paces througii the opening, vou suddenly find yourself m an immense 
Cham'ier, stretching fro.Ti the Galler}'' of the Ghujch with which it communicates, 
parallel to the Dining Room, to its utmost extreinify, -and proporlionably wide. This 
IS called J\cK.soN-".s Room, and the llDar is very irregular. 

This room is rather uuinreresting, hut it leads to one that deserves a passing notice. 
Directly opposite the little passage which conducted you hither, is a large opening; 
passing this, the rocks contract until only a narrow pass is left, a few feet in length. 
This conducts you, if not to the most rnagnificenf, at least to the most beautiful and 
interesting portion of the whole cavern. There is but one apartment and that, is 
small, but The G ^rden nr Eonx, for so it is called, derives its beauty from the singu- 
lar arrangeunut of the immense stalactites, ha,nging from the roof, and meeting the 
stalagmites, which have ascended from the floor to meet them: or in few words, it 
seems as if at some former period a sheet of water had poured down from the roof 
and by som? wonderful operation of Nature, had become suddenly petrified. This 
sheet is n>t continuous, but strongly resembles the folds of heavy drapery, and you 
may pass among the windings as through the mazes of a labyrinth, and the light of a. 
candle shines distinctly through any part of it. 

A portion of the floor of this room, is composed of a beautiful, fine yellow sand, 
whereas m^st of the cave is a stiff clay, with very few indications of sand. 

Returning to the Dining Room, the next room, or perhaps it should be called pas- 
san;e, is denominated Tns Wildetin-es.s, from the roughness of the path-way, and is 
only 10 ft. wide, but it rises to the immnisc height of 90 or 100 feet ! As we come 
along the Causcw.oy, and look down upon our right, we shall see our company 40 to 
53 ft. below us, wliilc our eves can scarcely penetrate through the darkness, to the 
ceiling above their heads. Upon the very verge of the rock uuon which we are stand- 
ing, are several beautiful white stalagmites, grouped together, among which, one 
stands pre-eminent. This is Bonaparte with his Body Guard, crossing the Alps. The 
etTect is peculiarly fine, when viewed from below. 

Proceeding only a few pa-^es from tiie Emperor, ynn find yourself upon an ar.-h, 



316 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



dlers, 2 tailors, 1 blacksmith shop, 1 
cabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, 1 sad- 
dle tree maker, 3 house carpenters, 1 
hatter, and 4 boot and shoe makers. 
Population about 250 persons.* 

JennixNg's Gap, P. O. a gap in 
North Mountain, in the northern part 
of the county, 133 ms. from R. 162 



S. W. by W. of W. and 12 from 
Staunton. There are located here 
several houses, among which are a 
tavern and mercantile house of long 
standing. 

MiDDLEBROoK, P. V. situated in 
the southern part of the county, 10 
ms. S. S. W. of Staunton, 174 S. W. 



under which your company are passing, v/hich is very appropriately called The 
Natural Bridge. 

You are now upon the lowest level of the cave, and at the enirance of the farthest 
room. This is Jefferson's Hall, an extensive, but not very elevated ajrartment, 
quite level. Before I describe this room, we must diverge a little, and visit one or tAvo 
rooms, that branch off from the mam path. Directly to your right, as you emerge 
from the Wilderness, there rises an immense mass, apparently of solid stalagmite, 36 
ft. in length, 30 ft. in breadth, and 30 ft. in height; this mass is beautiful beyond de- 
scription, very much resembling successive stories, and is called The Tower of Ba- 
bel! The most splendid portion of the Tower, is on the back, but it is difficult of ac- 
cess, for it is necessary to climb up the surface of the rock to the height of 15 or 20 ft. 
the view however, amply repays you for the labor. 

For a few moments, you can scarcely convince yourself that an immense body of 
water is not pouring over the precipice in a foaming cataract, so white, so dazzling 
is the effulgence of the rock; and when this impression is effaced the words of the 
pious Bard rush into the mind, where he describes the awful effects that will Ibllow 
the consummation of all things ; 

" The Cataract, that like a Giant wroth, 
Rushed down impetuously, as seized at once 
By sudden frost, with all his hoary locks, 
Stood still!! 

One might almost imagine, that Pollok had visited this wonder, and caught the 
idea so forcibly expressed above, from viewing this magnificent scene. 

We have already so much exceeded our intended limits, that we can only look into 
the large apartment, that occupies the space behind the Tower, which is called Sir 
Walter Scott'r Room, and then hasten back to the main path. 

Jefferson's Room, that we left some time since, is very irregular in shape, and is 235 
ft. long, following the various windings. 

What is commonly called the end of the cave, is distinguished by two singular, thin, 
lamellar rocks, 5 or G feet in diameter united al their bases, but .spreading out so that 
the outer edges are several feet apart; this is called The Fly Trap! 

To the left of the Fly Trap, is a large recess, where is a fine spring, at which tlie 
weary visiter is glad toslakejiis thiist, after the fatigues of his arduous undertaking. 

A few yards beyond the I'jy Trap, there is an opening in the solid wall, at the 
height of about 12 ft. through which you are admitted by a temporary ladder. By 
hard climbing you soon penetrate to the end of the rcce.ss, where you" will find the 
Source of the Nile ! This is a beautiful, limped Spring covered over with a thin pel- 
licle of stalagmite, yet sufficiently strong to bear your weight; — in this crust theie is 
a perforation that gives you access to the water beneatli. 

At all seasons, the air of the cave is damp, but the dampness of the floor depends- 
much upon the seasons; if you except a moist place near the Fly Trap, there is no 
standing water throughout all the cavern, so that no difliculty on that account occurs. 
The temperature remains invariably in all parts, at about 56 degrees of Farenheit, 
from which it follow.';, that if the cave is visited in the winter, its air feels quite 
warm; but if in summer, a proportionable degree of cold is experienced. The spring 
and fall are the best times for visiting, for then the atmosphere without, is nearly of 
the same temperature with that within the cave, and it is more dry al these times. 
*TnE Cyclopean Tower.s.— On a fine morning in September 1834, a party of which 
the writer was one, consisting for the most part of gentlemen who had met together in 
the town of Staunton from various sections of the Union, resolved on a visit to certain 
remarkable natural structures which lay in the neighborhood of the Augusta 
Springs, and about lAyenty miles distant from the place of their departure. 

After passing over a hilly and picturesque country, the road opened upon a fertile 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



3ir 



by W. of W. and 132 from R. Carr's 
Brook divides the town. This vil- 
lage is thriving and contains about 
30 dwelling houses, some of thern 
handsome brick buildings, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, 1 common school, 1 tavern, 3 
miscellaneous stores, I tanyard, 2 tai- 
lors, 1 cabinet maker, 1 cooper, 1 
house carpenter, 1 wheelwright, 2 
boot and shoe factories. Population 



about 150 persons; of whom 1 is a 
physician. 

Mount Meridian, P. O. 118 ms". 
from R. and 147 from W., situated in 
the western part of the county, on the 
main stage road leading from Staun- 
ton, to Port Republic, 17 ms. N. E. of 
the former, and 2k from Weyer's 
Cave. It contains 8 dwelling house.s, 
1 miscellaneous store, 1 blacksmith's 
shop, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker 



valley, which though in places narrow, was of considerable length, — and when seen 
from an elevated position, appeared like the bed of an ancient lake, or as it really is, 
the alluvial border of a flowing stream. The strata of limestone hills, followed their 
usual order of parallel lines to the great mountains of our continent, as though a 
strong current had once swept through this magnificent valley, forming in its course 
islands and promontories, which are now discoverable in numerous short hills and 
rocky blufls, that are eitheir naked and barren, or covered with a growth of stately 
trees. It was at such a projection, that we first descried the giay summits of what 
seemed a ruinous castle, — resembling those which were raised in feudal times to 
guard the passes of the Rhine, or like such as are still seen in mouldering majesty, on 
many an Alpine rock. These summits or towers, of which there are seA'en, lilted 
their heads above the lofty elms, like so many antique chimnies in the midst of a 
grove; but, on approaching them nearer, our pleasure was greatly increased, to find 
them rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a small stream, which winding 
around their base, serves as a natural moat to a building not made with mortal hands. 
The southern front of this colossal pile, presents a wall of about sixty feet elevation, 
terminating in three towers of irregular height, and perforated at its base by a cav- 
ern, — which, by an apt association, was denominated " Vulca?i's Forge." The tower 
on the extreme right, was unanimously called " Cocke's Toiccr' — in honor of one of 
our party who ascended it. On the left, are two other isolated towers, — of which the 
centre or smaller one was distinguished as the '' Ilymenial Allar" — a name which had 
its origin partly in ayVw d'csprit, and partly on account of a shady bower in its rear, 
which seemed an ;i.ppropriatc shade to mantle inai^fei's blushes. The furthest and 
tallest, received the title of the " Tower of Babel.' This is also the most perpendicular 
of all these rocky structures; an archway passes through it, by \\hi:h there is an easy 
ascent to the remaining two, which stand on the acclivity of the hill, — and though of 
less altitude, are not ot" inferior beauty to the rest. One of them, Avhich is of a round 
form, and flat at the top, and on that account received the appellation of the " Table. 
Rock" — aftbrds from its summit a splendid view of the whole; the other, and last of 
the five, we distinguished as " Shcltoii's Rock" — from one of our part)'. 

These rocks in their formation resemble the palisades on the Hudson river — but are 
more regular in their strata,^which appear to have been arranged in huge masses of 
perfect workman.ship — with projections like cornices of Gothic architecture, in a state 
of dilapidation. Those who are acquainted with the structure of the Cyclopean walls 
of the ancients, would be struck with the resemblance, — which suggested the name at 
the head of this article. 

We pause to inquire why these primeval fragments of the world have remained so 
long unnoticed! Why is it that men are so easily awakened to the liveliest interest 
in distant objects, and yet neglect tho,se which are nearer and more accessible! "A 
prophet" it hath been said on high authority, "hatli honor save in bis own country," 
and to that strange propensity of the mind to contemn whatever is familiar, must be 
attributed the neglect of many of the ricliest treasures at our own door, which fre- 
quently impart both wealth and distinction to foreign enterprise. For many years 
these towers have been known in the surrounding country, by the homely appellation 
of " The Chimneys," — but no one has ever stopped to examine them, or to inquire 
how nature formed so curious a pile in such a spot. Imagination may indeed con- 
ceive that this noble structure was once the Scylla of a narrow strait connecting the 
waters of the N. and the S. until their accumulated pressure burst through the Blue 
Ridge at Harper's Perry, and left in their subsidence lhe;.e towers, a.-: a perpetual 
memorial of their former domiuiuii. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 



1 manufacturing flour mill (Wliit 
more's,) and I Methodist houso of 
Avorship. Population 50. 

Mount Sydnky, P, V. 131 ms. 
from 11. and 153 S. W. by W. of AV. 
situated on the main stage road lead- 
ing from Staunton to Winchester, lU 
ms. N. E. of the former. It contains 
SO dwelling houses, 3 miscellaneous 
stores, 1 handsome hotel, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomina- 
tions, a male and female academy, 1 
lanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 1 hatter, 1 milliner, 1 cabi- 
net and chair maker, and 1 pottery. 
Population 190 persons; of whom 2 
are physicians 

New Hope, P. V. 114 ms. from 
R. and 152 S. W^ by W. of W. This 
little village contains several dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 apothe- 
cary shop, 1 house of public worship, 
free for all denominations, 2 taverns, 

2 tailors and 1 house joiner. Popu- 
lation 40 persons: of whom 2 aie! 
physicians. i 

Spring Fauji, P. O. 151 ms. S. W.j 
by W. of W. and 122 from R. 

"STAUNTON, P. Y. mid Coil nfij, 
Seat, 163 ms. S. W. of W. 121 N. 
W^ by W. of R. and 40 a little N. of 
W.from Charlottesville; situated in lat. ' 
38° 9' N. and in long. 2^ 03' W. of 
W., on one of the extreme head bran- 
ches of the E. fork of Shenandoah 
river. It stands on the fine valley 
between the Blue Ridge and Kitta- 
tinny, or between the Blue Ridge and 
North mountain chains, a little N. of 
Madison and Weyer's cave. 

With the exception of Winchester, 
Staunton is the oldest town W. of the 
Blue Ridge. 

Sometime previous to the laying 
ofTof Augu.-ita from Orange, a grant 
of 120,000 acres of land was m.ide to 
Wm. Beverly, Esq. comprising the 
greater part of the present county. 
Beverly gave to the county when it 
was formed 2.5 acres, situated upon 
Lewis' creek, on which to build n C 
H. and found ;i i-ouni\- tr.wu. IT'-ri^ 



the first court was held in 1745, and 
this was the beginning of Staunton. 
It was not legally recognized as a 
town until 1761. 

The grant of Beverly was divided 
off into lots by the county, and soon 
became settled ; more being required, 
Beverly caused several lots to be sur- 
veyed, adjoining this grant, which 
survey bears the date of 1749, and 
shows the early increase of the place. 

Staunton originally occupied only 
the level land upon the borders of the 
creek, but it has become gradually 
extended, until it has surmounted the 
surrounding hills, and now resem- 
bles an amphitheatre in form. The 
streets are quite regular, running at 
right angles, and have specific names, 
but like many other old towns, they 
are too narrow. This probably arises- 
from the necessity that existed when 
they were founded, of living as com- 
pactly as possible, that the inhabitants 
might more easily repel the incursions 
of a savage enemy, who dwelt in the 
surrounding forests and mountains. 
It became a corporate borough in 
1801, having a mayor, 6 aldermen 
and 4 common council men. 

At present it contains about 200 
dwelling houses, exclusive of stores, 
shops, offices, &c. and its population, 
; according to the census of 1830, is 
j 2,000. There are 13 dry good stores, 
I 1 book store, 1 druggist's store, 1 
confectioner, 4 groceries, 2 carriage 
makers, 2 wagon makers, 2 saddlers, 
7 blacksmiths, 3 tanyards, 3 hatters, 
2 chair makers, 4 tinners, I copper 
smith, 1 gun smith, 1 threshing ma- 
chine maker, 3 cabinet makers, 2 
watch makers, I pottery and 5 tailors, 
besides the various other trades usual- 
ly followed in a place of this size. 
There is 1 printing office, from Avhich 
issues a valuable weekly paper; and 
which is occasionally engaged in the 
publication of books and pamphlets. 
There are also 12 attorneys, 6 regu- 
lar physicians, and 3 mini.-;ters of the 
(T<'»'-Tiel'. 'I'he clnirrlies at which 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



319 



these ministers officiate belong to the 
Presbyterian, Episcopalian and Me 
thodist denominations, and are all 
handsome brick buildings. The pub- 
lic edifices are a C. H.* and jail, built 
of stone, a Chancery C. H., a county 
clerk's office, and a market house, all 
built of brick, and there are also 4 ex- 
tensive hotels. 

Much attention is paid to education 
in this place, and many young per- 
sons of both sexes, are sent here from 
all parts of the country, to attend the 
various schools. There are 2 female 
seminaries, and a male academy; all 
of which employ respectively several 
teachers, and are in a flourishing con- 
dition, besides 4 primary schools. 

The Western Lunatic Hospital is 
located in Staunton, and is a noble 
pile of buildings : it is sufficiently com- 
modious to accommodate 37 lunatics, 
but is at the present time, being en- 
larged, by the addition of two exten- 
sive wings, which, when completed, 
will accommodate 40 more. 

An act has passed the General As- 
sembly, authorising the establishment 
also, of a Deaf and Dumb Asylum as 
soon as funds can be procured for 
that purpose. 

Lewis' creek runs through the cen- 
tre of the town, and has sufficient fall 
to turn a chopping mill, a grist mill 
and a carding machine. There is 
still sufficient unemployed water pow- 
er to drive a cotton or woollen facto- 
ry of considerable extent, and an en- 
terprising capitalist might profitably 
invest some portion of his capital in 
that business. 



County Courts arc held ari the itk 
Mondaij in every month; — Quarter' 
ly in March, May, Augtist and Oc- 
tober. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the lOth 
of June and November, by Judge 

TlIOMSPON. 

Steel's Tavern, P. O. 138 ms. 
from R. and 180 from W. 

Waynesboro' P. V. 109 ms. from 
R. and 150 from W., situated at the 
western foot of the Blue Ridge, on 
South river. Waynesboro' is an in- 
dustrious and wealthy little village, 
located in a beautiful and picturesque 
situation, in a fertile and Avell watered 
country, on the main stage road lead- 
ing from Charlottesville to Staunton, 
30 ms. N. W. of the former, and 12 
E. S. E. of the latter. The present 
town is called Waynesboro', junior, 
(Waynesboro', senior, lying a little 
N. having fallen into ruins.) It con- 
tains 70 dwelling houses, 5 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 houses of public Avorship, 
(1 ?Tlethodist and 1 Presbyterian,) 
1 incorporated academy. 1 common 
school and public library. 1 extensive 
manufacturing flour mill and a wool 
carding machine, 1 hotel (kept in the 
best stylf,) 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3 
tailors, 1 hatter, 1 silver smith and 
watch maker, 1 v,-agon maker, 1 chair 
maker, 2 cabinet makers, 3 boot and 
shoe factories, and 3 blacksmith's 
shops. Population not less than 500 
persons; of whom 4 are regular phy- 
sicians. 



BATH. 

Bath County was created by the Legislature in 1791 from a portion of 
Augusta, Bottetourt and Greenbrier. It is bounded by Augusta on the E. 
— Rockbridge on the S. E. — Alleghany on the S. and S. W. — Greenbrier 
on the W. — Pocahontas on the N. W., and Pendleton on the N. Its ex- 



* Since this was Avvittcn, the court has contracted for the erection of a new C. H. 
wliich will be muiucbtionably the finet>t building of the kind hi any county in the 
state. 



320 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 

tent, from a ridge of the North mountain on the S. E., to the main Alle- 
ghany ridge on the N. W. is 25 miles, and from Pendleton on the N. E. 
to Alleghany on the S. W. 40 miles; and area 756 square miles. Ex- 
tending in lat. from 37° 50' to 38° 25' N. and in long. 2° 18' to 3° W. of 
W. G. 

The face of the country is very broken and in great part mountainous, 
being situated at the eastern base of the great Alleghany ridge : about 
one-eighth of it may be considered arable land, the mean elevation of which 
is 1200_feet above the ocean. It is well watered by Jackson's river, and 
its tributary, Back creek, (the latter washing the base of the Alleghany 
mountain,) and by the Gow Pasture river, and its tributary, the Bull Pas- 
ture, all of which have their sources in Pendleton county. Jackson river 
and the Gow Pasture, afterwards forming a junction in Bottetourt county, 
their united stream is styled James river. Into these streams descend from 
the mountains numerous branches and rivulets,* affording innumerable 
sites for mills and machinery. Each of those streaiiis are separated by a 
mountain running parallel thereto, none of which are considerable or 
known by any name, beyond the limits of the county, except JacksoiCs or 
the Warm iipri)ig mountain. They are not remarkable for their height, 
and excepting the one already mentioned do not exceed from 300 to 500 
feet from their base, and are by no means sterile : the soil on them being 
tolerably good, and neither too rocky or too steep for tillage ; producing 
the most valuable kinds of timber, an extraordinary variety of shrubbery 
and herbage, and abounding in limestone, iron ore, and springs of excel- 
lent water. But it is as a grazing ground that they are chiefly valuable. 
Large herds of cattle, ranging on them in the summer months. 

The vallies between the mountains, which are from 2 to 5 miles wide, 
are very fertile, a considerable portion entirely level, and in a fine state of 
cultivation, producing abundant crops of grain and hay. The average 
produce per acre, being as follows, to wit. wheat and rye 20 to 30 bushels; 
Indian corn 25 to 40; oats 20 to 30 ; buckwheat, and barley 25: potatoes 
and turnips 100 bushels; flax, 200 lbs.; hemp 800 lbs.; and hay one to 
two tons. The meadows are particularly fine, and the kinds of grass cul- 
tivated are, timothy, clover, and blue grass, all of which flourish exceed- 
ingly. A soil so well adapted to grain and grass, naturally induced the 
proprietors to turn their attention to live stock. Accordingly, horses, 
mules, cattle, (of the finest breeds) sheep and hogs are raised, and a con- 
siderable number of them annually driven to market. Gonnected with the 
management of li-ve stock, is the dairy, which is here well understood. 
Large quantities of butter are made and sent to market. Wool alt;o is an 
article of which the quantity made is greater than the consumption, and is 
increasing. Out of the flax and wool which they grow, the inhabitants of 
this county manufacture all the clothing worn by tlieinselves and the 

♦Among these. Falling Sprhig Creek tlcserves notice. It rises in the Warm 
Spring mountains about 20 miles S. W. of the AVann Springs, and floAvs into that 
valley. About tliree-quarters of a mile from its source, it falls over a rock 200 feet 
into the vallej^ below. The sheet of water is broken in its breadth by the rock in 
two or three places, but not at all in its height.— Between the sheet and rock at the 
bottom one may walk across dry. This cataract will bear no comparison with that 
of Niagara as to the quantity of water eomposing it — the sheet being only 12 or 15 
feet wide above, and somewhat more below, but it is l\alf as high again. 'The latter 
being only 15G feet according the mensuration made by order of Mons. Vaudrcuil, 
Governor of Canada, and 130 according to a more recent account. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



321 



slaves on their farms. The soil and climate are particularly favorable to 
fruit trees, and produce, apples and peaches in great abundance ; every 
farm having an orchard. Gardening is also practised to an extent equal 
to the demand for family use 

In a section of country so much diversified with mountains and vallies, 
abounding with mineral nnd other springs, pure air, and a temperate cli- 
mate, health and longevity may be expected. This is actually the case, 
and in this respect it is not surpassed by any part of the United States. 

In this county there are 2 attorneys, 2 physicians, 4 stores, 3 merchant- 
mills, 18 grist mills, 16 saw mills, 4 carding machines, 3 tan }ards, 2 tilt- 
hammers, and 1 distillery. 

Population in 1820, 5>237— in 1830, 4,002. Bath belongs to the 17th 
judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, B837 24 — in 1834, 
on lots, 86 cts.— on land, $468 69— 634 slaves, 8158 50— 2,1 17 horses. 
§127 02—10 studs, $73 00—6 coaches, 814 00—5 carryalls, 85 00—2 
gigs, 81 00 — Total, 8848 07. Expended in educating poor children in 
1832, $142 53— in 1833, 8203 75. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, A:c. 



Bull P.\stiire, P. O. 164 miles 
from R. and 206 from W. This is 
the local name given to the higher 
part of Cow Pasture river, or the 
middle constituent of the James. It 
rises in Pendleton and flows S. 20° 
W. to its confluence with the Cow 
Pasture in Bath. It is about 20 ms. 
in length, 10 of which distance is in 
each of the two counties. In' that 
portion of the Bull Pasture valley, 
which lies in Bath, there are located 
37 dwelling houses, 1 Presbyterian 
house of worship, 1 school, 1 mer- 
cantile store, a saddler, tailor, tilt- 
hammer, and manufacturing mill ; 
and a population of about 370 persons 
The principal occupation of the in- 
habitants is agriculture. In this 
neighborhood there is a large spring 
of limestone water, to which no bot- 
tom has a.s yet been found. It rises 
between two large rock.'s, from under 
a bank covered whh spruce pine, and 
is called the Blue Spiing. After 
running about 40 yards, it discharges 
itself into the Bull Pasture, on the 
west side, about 3 ms. from its junc- 
tion with the Cow Pasture. 

On that part of the Bull Pasture, 
which lies beyond the Bath and Pen- 
dleton line, arc situated 63 dwelling 
U 



houses, 2 houses of public worship 
(1 Methodist, and the other free for 
all denominations,) 1 mercantile 
store, 1 tanyard, and various mechan- 
ics ; the whole population is 630 per- 
sons, one of whom is a physicians. 

Flowing Spring, P. O. 206 ms. 
S. W. of W. and 164 N. W. of R.. 
situated in the valley of the Cow 
Pasture, 16 ms. N. E. of the Warm 
Springs. There is no town or vil- 
lage at the place, and the spring is 
private property. This spring inter- 
mits, or ebbs and flows, affording 
when the tide is up, sufficient water 
for a grist mill, and when it ebbs, 
leaves a stream large enough for the 
supply of a distillery and a tanyard. 
The water is of the purest and best 
quality, equal in temperature to ice 
water.. In the dryest weather in sum- 
mer, the water flows out in a bold and 
majestic stream, that astonishes those 
who have witnessed the spring which 
is left after it falls away. When the 
flowing commences, the water comes 
in a body as if let loose from a dam. 
Issuing from the rocks at the foot of 
a hill, it continues to run for ten or 
twelve hours, then gradually declines. 
There is no regularity in the flow- 
inr ; in the same kind of v.-eaiher it 



322 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



from two to three days, — | dressing rooms attached. The ac- 

ihough considerably 



will vary 

sometimes flowing every day — at 
other times at intervals of two or 
three days. Neither is there any 
particular period of time at which 
the water rises. This irregularity 
has created the greatest difficulty in 
accounting for it. A mill, a distillery, 
and tanyard are supplied with water 
from this spring. 

Gkeen Vallky, p. O. 157 ms. 
N. W. by W. of R. and 199 S. W. 
by W. of W., situated on Stewart's 
creek, a branch of the Cow Pasture 
river, 12 ms. E. of the AVarm Springs, 
on the main post road. 

Hot Spring!?, P. O. 217 ms. S. 
W. by W. of W. and 175 N. W. by 
W. of R. — situated between the Cow 
Pasture and the eastern branch of 
Jackson's river, at the base of a lofty 
mountain of the same name, 5 ms. S. 
S. W. of the Warm Springs, and 57 
S. W. by W. of Staunton, on the main 
post road leading from Richmond to 
Guyandotte on the Ohio. These 
springs are numerous, probably 
amounting to twenty, issuing from the 
hill upon which the hotel is situated, 
and all varying in their temperature, 
presenting every variety, from 51^ to 
107°. As yet however there have 
been only three baths constructed. 



commodalions 

improved in the last two years, are 
still very defective. The property, 
however has been recently purchased 
bv Dr. Goode, who has commenced 
it's improvement on an extensive scale, 
and vvill probably in the course of 
two years have a sufficient number 
of buildings erected to accommodate 
all who are desirous of obtaining re- 
lief from the waters. These waters 
are principally celebrated for their 
efficacy in cutaneous, rheumatic, 
dyspeptic, and liver affections. They 
are however resorted to lor every 
species of disease, and perhaps there 
is none in which one or the other of 
the baths have not proved beneficial. 
There are no local improvements at 
the Hot Springs, excepting those 
mentioned. The country around to 
a considerable extent being the pro- 
perty of an individual, it has pre- 
vented the settlement of mechanics, 
merchants, or professional men. The 
proprietor, Dr Goode, is himself an 
eminent physician. 

Three miles S. W. of the Hot 
Springs, are situated what are called 
the Healing Springs. They have 
not yet come fully into notice, but 
have of late met with considerable 



One called the hot bath or ic^/e/-,! attention, and it is confidently believ- 
over which there has been erected aied by those who are acquainted Avith 



large and handsome building, con 
taining fifteen rooms ; a portion of 
which together with one- half of tlie 
Bath, is appropriated exclusively to 
ladies, and the residue with the othnr 
half of the bath to gentlemen. The 
second bath is called the Spout, from 
a pipe of water of the temperature of 
106°, which falls mto the body of 
the bath, from a height of 7 or 8 feet 



the Temperate Bath. Its tempera 
ture always corresponding with that 
of the blood of the human system ; 



the efficacy of their waters, to be the 
best in the United States. They consist 
of several small warm springs. They 
have never been analized, but have 
performed some very extraordinary 
cures where the other mineral springs 
have failed. 

MiLBono' Spring, P. V. 157 ms, 
from R. and 199 S. W. by W. of W. 
Milboro' is a small village situated 



from its bottom. The. third is called on the free turnpike road, leading 



from Staunton, through Panther's 
Gap, to the Warm Springs, — 6 ms. 
W. of the Gap, 13 E. of the Springs, 



over this spring is now in progress of! 22 N. W. of Lexington, and 1| from 
erection an octagonal house, nearly! Cow Pasture river, which is naviga- 
120 feet in the clear, with convenient' blc from this point by boats for three 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATir. 



am 



months in the year. It contains 25 
buildings, several of which are of 
brick, a mercantilij store, tavern, 
manufacturing flour mill, blacksmith 
and tilt-hammer shop, (on an exten- 
sive scale,) 1 wagon maker, and 1 
hatter. The situation of this village 
is pleasant and eligible, — near a sul- 
phur spring, which has been famed 
for the medicinal qualities of its 
waters, and was formerly much fre- 
quented. This is a place of consi- 
derable business, being located in a 
thickly settled neighborhood, sur- 
rounded b}^ handsome and fertile 
farms, producing all kinds of grain 
and stock. One mile from this vil- 
lage, on the right hand side of the 
turnpike leading to the Warm Springs, 
is situated the Blowing Cave. Near 
the north bank of the Cow Pasture 
river, between the cave and Milboro', 
stands a house of public worship, 
called the Wind Care Meeting 
House, which is free for all denomi- 
nations. A turnpike road is being 
made from this place to Lexington, a 
considerable portion of Avhich is al- 
ready in operation. 

RucKMANviLLE, P. O. 180 ms. 
from R. and 222 S. W. by W. from 
W. Ruckmanville, though called a 
village, is simply a post office, estab- 
lished in 1827, and called after the 
proprietor of the place, who resides 
here and keeps a house of entertain- 
ment. It is situated 27 ms. N. of 
the Warm Springs, on the main post 
road leading from Franklin to Hun- 
tersville, and 25 ms. from the mouth of 
Back creek. This creek rises in 
Pendleton county, and after running 
40 or 50 ms. along the eastern base 
of the Alleghany mountain empties 
into Jackson's river, a branch of the 
James. Its principal branches are 
the Valley branch, which intersects 
the same at Ruckmanville, and Little 
Back creek about 20 miles below at 
Gateswood. — The sum-ounrliag coun- 
try is mountainous. The upland is 
uneven, but the soil is good prudnc- 



ing in abundance, grass, corn, whea^ 
rye, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, flax, 
<fec. The timber is, sugar maple, 
chesnut, beech, various kinds of oak, 
sycamore, locust, hickory and wal- 
nut. The neighborhood is thickly 
settled with industrious and wealthy 
farmers. 

WARM SPRINGS, P. V. and 
seat of justice. 170 ms. N. W, of R. 
and 212 S. W. of W. This village 
is situated in a narrow valley, between 
two high mountains, v/hich run pa- 
rallel from N. E. to S. W. The 
view from many points of these 
mountains is grand and picturesque 
in the extreme. The beauty and 
grandeur of the scene from the Warm 
Spring Rock, has become very cele- 
brated ; but must be seen to be appre- 
ciated. This village contains besides 
the ordinary county buildings, about 
14 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, 1 saddler, 2 tailors, and 3 
blacksmiths. The ordinary popula- 
tion, consists of about 137 persons,- of 
whom 1 is a physiciam. The ac- 
commodations for visiters to the wa- 
ters are also very extensive, consist- 
ing of about five and twenty cabins, 
most of which are of brick, besides 
the new Thermal Hotel, which has 
lately been erected, at great cost to 
the proprietors, and which is a large 
brick building, about 135 feet long, 
containing a dining room for 200 
persons, a drawing room, a ball room, 
and about five and twenty comfortable 
chambers. The front is adorned by 
a large portico, the whole length of 
the house, supported by fourteen Do- 
ric columns, which aflbrds an agree- 
able shade during the heat of the day, 
and a fine promenade, as well for the 
invalid, as for the beaux and belles. 
Any one who has ever taken the 
bath here will never forget its luxu- 
ry, and to those who have not, it is 
impossible to convey a just idea of 
the delicious sensations it causes. 

It is much to be regretted, that all 
our vnhiable mineral water? have not 



3'i4 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. 



been faithfully analysed. Thousands 
of our citizens annually resort to the 
watering-places west of the Blue 
Ridge, for the purpose of preserving 
or repairing health. The climate in 
the autumnal months cannot be sur- 
passed for salubrity, and very many 
invalids are relieved from pain and 
sickness by the united power of air 
and water. In Europe, no one thinks 
of using waters Avhose contents are 
not accurately ascertainad by men of 
science ; but unfortunately in our 
country, copious libations are made, 
before it is known whether the quali- 
ty of the water is adapted to the par- 
ticular case or not. A careful analy- 
sis of the water at the War3i Springs 
has been obligingly furnished to the 
proprietors by a distinguished Pro- 
fessor of Chemistry, (Mr. Rogers, of 
William and Mary,) and the result is 
as follows : 

'^Contents of the Waters of the Bath, 
at the Warm Springs, as ascer- 
tained by Chemical Analysis : 
" The bath is an Octagon 38 ft. in 
diameter, and 16 ft. 9 in. inside — its 
area is 1163 77 ft. 

" The ordinary depth of water be- 
ing 5 ft. the cubic capacity is .5818.86 
ft. or 43533.32 gallons. ' Notwith- 
standmg the leaks, this quantity of 
water will flow into the Reservoir, in 
one hour. 

" The average temperature of the 
Bath is 98 deg. Fahrenheit. The 
Gas, which rises in the Bath, con- 
sists of Nitrogen, with minute quan- 
ties of Sulphiretted Hydrogen and 
Carbonic Acid. 

" Besides this Gas, each gallon of 
water contains 4.5 cubic inches of 
Gas, consisting of 

Nitrogen - - 3.25 cub. in. 
Sulphuretted Hydrogen 0.25 do. 
Carbonic Acid - - 1.00 do. 

" The Saline contents of one gal- 
lon of the water, are as follows : 
Muriate of Lime 3.968 

Sulphate of Magnesia 9.984 

Carbonate of Lime 4,288 



Sulphate of Lime 5.466 

A trace of Soda, no doubt, in 

the state of Muriate, 

23.706" 

From this account, which may be 
implicitly relied on, it appears that 
while the Warm Springs aflbrd the 
most luxurious bath in the world, 
they contain neutral salts and various 
gases, which act as a gentle aperient, 
diuretic and sudorific, and give tone 
and vigor to ihe human system. It 
is well ascertained in other countries, 
that waters of a high temperature 
tend more to strengthen the digestive 
organs than those of a low tempera- 
ture ; but it is found, by actual ex- 
periment, that the water at the Warm 
Springs retains a considerable por- 
tion of its useful qualities when bot- 
tled in the Spring, and then cooled 
by immersing the bottles in cold 
water or even ice, and this plan is 
adopted by many of those who have 
a repugnance to the use of Avarm 
water. 

County Courts are held on the 2d 
Mojiday in every month : — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Taylor, hold.s his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 25^A of April and Septem- 
ber. 

WiLLsoxviLLE, P. O. 178 ms. N. 
W. by W^ of R. and 220 S. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the southwest- 
ern part of the county. Willsonville 
is the name of a farm at which the 
P. O. is located, and which contains 
more than 1200 acres, 400 of which 
are level and in good cultivation, pro- 
ducing well, wheat,- rye, oats, corn, 
buckwheat, &c., and the dairy pro- 
duces per annum from 12 to 1500 
wt. of butter. There is also a black- 
smith's shop, grist and saw mill in 
the centre of the farm ; the latter 
moved b}^ vrater of Jackson's river, 
As a farm, this will bear comparison 
with any in the Valley of Virginia, 
It is 20 ms. from the Warm Springs, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BERKLEY. 325 

and 35 from Franklin, (the county jrivcr, and South Branch of Potomac, 
seat of Pendleton,) between which A weekly mail arrives here on every 
places the road is entire]}- level, and Monday. 
runs along the vallies of Jackson's^ 



BERKLEY. 

Berkley was created in 1772, from a portion of the county of Frede- 
rick. It is bounded by Jefferson E. and S. E. — Frederick S. and S. W.— 
Morgan W. and N. W. — and by the Potomac, separating it from Washing- 
ton county, Maryland, N. and N. E. Its mean length is 22^ miles, mean 
breadth 13: and area 308 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 39° 14' to 39° 
45' N. and long, from 1° 14' to 2° 1 1' W. of W. C. Back and Opequhan 
creeks run through this county in nearly parallel directions, and near the 
borders of the county, in a northeasterly direction, and give the general 
slope of the county their own direction. The surface of this county is 
much broken, and very mountainous; the arable surface of the farms has a 
mean elevation of from 5 to to 700 feet above tide water. 

Anthracite coal has lately been discovered in the western section of this 
county of a very superior quality, and in great abundance. The valley in 
which it is found is a continuation of the valley which produces such large 
quantities in Pensylvania, and the proximity of the mine to the Chesapeake 
and Ohio canals will afford the facilities of a ready transportation to mar- 
ket. This discovery if it should prove as successful as there is every rea- 
son to anticipate, Avill convert a region heretofore barren and almost without 
a single inhabitant, into an inexhaustible source of private and public 
wealth — multiplying the inhabitants, extending the comfort of individuals 
and adding to the permanent revenue of the State. 

Population in 1810, 11,479,— in 1820, 11,211— in 1830, 10,528. This 
county belongs to the 13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 
1833, $3401 46— in 1834, on lots, $238 79— land, $2194 90—975 slaves, 
$242 75—4369 horses, $264 19—20 studs, $162 00—65 coaches, 
$143 6.5—11 carryalls, $11 60—12 gigs, $11 05. Total, $3267 48. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $854 18 — in 1833, 
$570 09. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Berlington Mills, P. O. recent- 
ly located. 

Darksville, p. V. 165 ms. from 
R. and 86 from W., situated on Sul- 
phur Spri7ig creek, a branch of Ope- 
quhan, 25 ms. N. W. of Harper's 
Ferry, and on the post road leading 
from Martinsbitrg to Winchester, 7 
ms. from the former and 15 from the 
latter, near a beautiful stream called 
Middle Creek. The soil in the vi- 



limestone formation. The scenery 
around is picturesque and agreeable. 
It contains 32 dwelling houses, 2 
mercantile stores, 1 house of public 
worship, (Methodist,) 2 common 
schools, 1 fulling and dying estab- 
lishment, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 \va- 
gon maker, and 2 weavers; coopers 
and shoemakers are the most numer- 
ous class of mechanics. A Sulphur 



cinity is very fertile and principalIy|Spring is situated about 3 ms. E, of 



326 



WESTER N VIRGINT A— BEHKLEV 



this place on a liltlc creek which 
falls into the Opequan, at the distance 
of 300 yards from the spring. Here 
the scenery is delightful. The beau- 
tiful Opequan winds and meanders 
along in a manner that must interest 
the dullest fancy. There is a large 
house near this spring which was 
occupied as a boarding house some 3 
or 4 years since, when these springs 
were in vogue. These Avaters are 
strongly impregnated with sulphuret- 
ted hydrogen, and act as a gentle 
purgative, from which it may be in- 
ferred that they contain saline mat- 
ter. It was a place of much resort, 
but is now from the want of accom- 
modation, visited only by the passing 
traveller, or those Avho dwell in the 
vicinity. This is to be regretted, for 
with its scenery and the excellent 
qualities of the waters,* it could not 
fail to be a source of renovation to 
the invalid. 

Falling Waters, P. O. 79 ms. 
N. W. of W. and 180 from R. The 
Falling Waters are situated on the 
bank of the Potomac, about lat. 39° 
29' N. and long. 0° 44' W. of W. C, 
8 ms. from Marl'msburg, and 5 S. 
W. of William-sport, Md. at the 
isthmus formed by a ci renin r bend in 
the river, of about 21 ms. in perime- 
ter, and only 4 across. It contains 
but 3 dwelling houses, I of which 
has been long occupied as a tavern. 
1 manufacturing flour mill, a mill 
for grinding lime for hydraulic ce- 
ment, a cooper's shop and post office. 
Population 34, 9 of whom are slave.?. 
There are in the vicinity 1 Presby 
terian and 2 Methodist houses of 
worship, and 1 school, in which is 
taught all the ordinary branches of 
an English education. The mills arc 
situated immediately on the banks of 
the river, and are moved by the 
stream from a large spring which 
rises about 60 rods from them, and 
which is dammed at the mill to the 
height of twenty-four feet ; forming a 
beautiful pond, wliieh i'; I lie favorite 



resort of water fowl, and abounds 
with fish of a superior quality to 
those in the river. The view from 
this point of the valley of the Poto- 
mac, and the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal, for several miles up and down 
the river, is highly picturesque. The 
soil in this neighborhood is various, 
but generally consists of a bright 
yellowish clay. It produces from 15 
to 20 bushels of wheat to the acre, 
and about the same quantity of maize, 
but the low grounds on the margin 
of the river are generally dark and 
loamy, and produce from 20 to 25 
bushels to the acre. The principal 
productions arc wheat, rye, maize, 
and potatoes. The gardens produce 
in abundance all the culinary veget- 
ables adapted to the climate, and the 
lands generally nearly all of the fruit 
trees, forest trees, shrubs, &c. that 
are to be found in the same latitude. 
Iron ore is found in many places on 
the surface of the ground, but no at- 
tempt has ever been made to discover 
a mine. Limestone and a species of 
soft slate abound. There is an ex- 
cellent never failing chalybeate spring 
at Grigg's Tavern. jThe name of 
Falling Waters was given to this 
])lace before the mills were erected, 
iVom the precipitous fall of the mill 
stream over a large alluvial rock, 
which is 200 feet above the surface of 
the river. 

Gerardstown,P. V. 166 ms. from 
R. and 87 from W., situated in the 
southern part of the county. Tin's 
village contains 35 dwelling houses, 
2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 3 houses 
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, I 
Methodist and 1 Lutheran,) 1 com- 
mon school, 1 temperance society, I 
bible society, I tract society, and 1 
well organized Sunday school, 1 lan- 
yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith shops, 
2 wagon makers, 4 boot and shoe 
factories, and 3 weavers. " In the 
vicinity and on mill creek, are 4 
manufacturing fiour mills, 1 grist 
mill and 1 rnvdini!' mn.ehine. Popu- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTE'rOURT. 



327 



lation whites 150, of whom 1 is a 
physician; colored 22 — total 172. 
MARTINSBURG, P. V. and 

seat of justice, 172 ms. from R. and 
71 N. AV. of W. in lat. 39° 27' N. 
and long. 0^ 58' W. of W. C. Mar- 
tinsburg is a flourishing and wealthy 
village. It contains besides the coun- 
ty buildings, about 300 houses, many 
of them handsome and spacious 
brick buildings, 8 miscellaneous 
stores, 4 houses of public worship, (3 
built of stone, and 1 of brick — for 
Presbyterians, Lutherans, Roman 
Catholics, and Episcopalians,) a well 
built market house, 1 male and 1 fe- 
male academy, 3 common schools, 4 
well organized sunday schools, a 
temperance, missionary, bible, and 
colonization society, an alms house, 
2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wool- 
en manufactory, and 1 iron and brass 
foundry, with a cupola furnace, and 
water power, and 2 druggist shops. 
The mechanical pur.suits are — 2 
printing offices, each issuing a week- 
ly paper, 2 tanyards, 2 saddleries, 2 



boot and shoe factories, 1 confectioner, 
4 tailors, 1 chair maker, 4 wagon 
makers, 1 plough maker, 1 hatter, 2 
cabinet makers, 2 tin and copper smiths, 
2 white smiths, and 3 blacksmiths. 
Population in 1830, 1600 persons, of 
whom 4 are resident attornies and 5 
physicians. Martinsburg is distant 
22 ms. N. of Winchester, 21 N. W. 
of Harper's Ferry, 13 S. of Wil- 
liamsport, on the Maryland side of 
the Potomcc, 10 ms. W. of Shep- 
perdstown, 25 S E. of Berkley 
Springs, 5 E. of North mountain, 
and 7 miles S. of the nearest pomt on 
the Potomac river, and Chesapeake 
and Ohio canal. 

Count// Courts arc held on the 2d 
Moibday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
i-ciiibcr. 

Judge Parker holds his Circuit 
Superior Courtsof Law and Chancery 
on the 19/A of March and 15/A of 
September. 

Mill Creek, P. O. 162 ms. from 
R. and 83 from W. 



BOTSTOUllT. 



Botetourt was created by act of As.'>embly in 1769, and formed out of 
a part of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Alleghany, — N. E. by 
Rockbridge, — E. by Bedford, — S. by Franklin, — S. W. by Montgomery, — 
and W. by Giles and Monroe. Its mean length is 37 miles — breadth 28 ; 
and area 1057 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 08' to 37° 46' N. and in 
long, from 2° 28' to 3° 19' W. of W. C. This mountainous and elevated 
county slopes in two directions, — the one eastward towards the general 
course of the James and Roanoke rivers, and the other northeastward to- 
wards the Great Valley, between the Blue Ridge and North mountains. 
Salem on the Roanoke, and in the southern part of the county, is 1006 feet 
above tide water, and Pattonsburg on James river, in the northeastern part 
of the county, is 806 feet. The acclivity is rapid towards the western 
border on Pott's mountain, and the mean elevation of the arable soil may 
be assumed at 1250 feet. There is a great deal of very valuable fertile 
land in this county. The great body of the county is drained by the 
James and its tributaries, but the southern angle by "the Roanoke and its 
branches; both rivers are navigable from this county to tide water. 

Population in 1820, 13,590— in 1830, 16,354. This county belongs to 
the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, t?3682 00 
—in 1831 on lots, ^259 64— on land, $^2127 42—2634 slaves, §658 50— 



388 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTETOURT. 



5466 horses, $327 96—23 studs, $245 00—36 coaches, $98 85—2 stages, 
$8 00—25 carryalls, $27 00—15 gigs, $9 00. Total, $3760 37. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, $982 58— in 1833, $932 36. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Amstf.udam, p. O. 181 ms. W. of Sulphur Springs in Greenbrier, and 
R. and 240 from W., situated in a'areheld in the highest estimation by 



healthy part of the county, 15 ms 
from Buchanan, 16 from Salem, and 
5 from Fincastle directly on the main 
Western post road. It contains 30 
houses, 1 house of public worship, 
free for all denominations, 1 general 
store, I tanyard, 3 blacksmith shops, 
1 cabinet maker, 1 wagon maker, and 



those who have used them. Accom- 
modations are provided for 70 or 80 
persons. 

FINCASTLE, P. V. and seat of 
justice, 176 ms. W. of R. and 235 S. 
W. of W. in lat. 37° 28' and long. 
2° 57' W. of W. C. A flourishing 
and Avealthy village, situated on the 



2 saddlers. Population 109 persons, : right bank of Catawba creek. It 
of whom 1 is a physician. 'contains besides the ordinary county 

Big Lick, P. O., situated in the 
southeastern part of the county, 53 
ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 173 W. of 



R. and 250 S. W. by W. of W. 

Botetourt Springs, P. O. 189 
ms. W. of R. and 246 from W., situ- 
ated on the main valley post road, 
leading from Winchester, Va. to 



buildings 260 dwelling houses, and 
mechanics shops, most of which are 
built with brick, a Presbyterian, Epis- 
copalian, and a Methodist house of 
worship, 1 male and 1 female acade- 
my, 1 well organized fire company, 
1 temperance society, 3 taverns, 6 
mercantile stores, 2 druggist's shops, 



Knoxville, Ten., about 12 ms. W. of! 1 manufacturing flour mill, to which 
Fincastle. The houses are sufficient is attached a wool-carding machine, 
for the accommodation of about lOOjandan oil mill. The mechanical es- 
visiters, — are built of brick, and tablishments are, — 1 printing office, 
handsomely arranged iti the form ofl issuing a weekly paper, 1 confection- 
three sides of a square. The mine- ary, 2 clock and watch makers, 1 



ral spring contains sulphur, magne- 
sia, and carbonic acid gas. There is 
on the same tract a house of public 
worship, free for all denominations. 

Buchanan, see Pattonsburg. 

Clover Dale, P. O. 186 ms. W. 
of R. and 244 from W. 

Craig's Creek, P. O. 243 ms. 
from W. and 184 from R.— 8 ms. W. 
of Fincastle. 

Dagger's Springs, situated in the 
northern part of the county, within 
two and a half miles of .Tames river, 
16 ms. above Pattonsburg and Buch- 
anan, on the road thence to the White 
Sulphur Springs, from which they 
are distant 42 ms., from Lexington 
22, and about the same distance from 
the Natural Bridge. The water is 
similar in quality to that of the White 



gun smith, 4 blacksmiths, 4 boot and. 
shoe factories, 2 tailors, 2 hatters, 2 
tanners, 5 cabinet makers and house- 
joiners, 2 wheelwrights, 1 chair ma- 
ker, 1 copper-smith and tin-plate 
worker, 4 saddlers, 4 wagon makers, 
and 1 saddle-tree maker. White 
population 468 persons: of whom 9 
are attorneys, and 3 regular physi- 
cians; slaves 192, free colored 43, — 
total 703. The corporate powers are 
vested in 7 trustees, chosen annually. 

County Courts are held on the 2d 
Monday in every month; — Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

.Tudge Taylor holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chan- 
cery on the 1st of April and Sep- 
tember. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTETOURT. 



3^ 



Fluke's P. U. 163 ms. from R. 
and 24 1 from W. 

Henderson's, P. O. 185 ms. from 
R. and 227 S. W. of W. 

New Castle, P. V. 193 ms. from 
R. and 2.52 S. W. by W. of W, situ- 
ated in the western part of the coun- 
ty, in the fork of Craig's creek, 15 
ms. S. W. of Fincastle. It contains 
19 dwelling houses, 3 mercan'Me 
stores,, I manufacturing flour milL i 
powder and 1 oil mill, 1 woolca:;!- 
ing machine, 1 tavern, 1 academy, 
and 1 house of public worship, (Me- 
thodist,) 1 iron foundr^r, 1 blacksmitb 
shop, 2 boot and shoe factoncsi; 1 tan 
yard, 2 cabinet makers, 1 hatter, 1 
wagon maker, 1 saddler, I tailor, 1 
house carpenter, and 1 boat builder. 
Population 105. 

Pattonsburg and Buchanan, 
P. Villages, 181 ms. from R. and 
223 N. W. of W. These two vil- 
lages were incorporated by an act of 
Assembly of 1832-3. They are sit- 
uated on James river, the first on the 
N. and the last on the S. side. The 
two are connected by a handsome, 
perm.anent toll-bridge across the river. 
They are 25 miles above Lexington, 
12 below Fincastle, and 40 N. W. 
by W. of Lynchburg. The main 
western valley stage road runs thro' 
each of them, and the stage passes 
daily either up or down. The ad- 
vantages for trade possessed by the 
two places above those of any other 
town in Western Virginia, are such! 
as to insure their gradual if not rapid 
increase. The contemplated im- 
provements on James river, and the 
construction of roads opening a bet- 
ter communication with the adjacent 
counties, when completed, will great- 
ly increase the trade, and they will 
no doubt become the place of deposite 
not only for the produce of many ofj 
the wesleni counties of Virginia, and 
parts of Tennessee and Kentucky,] 
but also of most of the goods now 
wagoned by land from the northern' 
and eastern towns to the west. The 



two places are at present of about an 
equal size, and contain together about 
50 dwelling houses, 8 mercantile 
stores, 1 house of public worship, (a 
handsome brick building) free for all 
denominations, 1 common school, 2 
tobacco and 1 cordage and bagging 
factory, 1 foundry and tilt hammer 
manufictory, 1 grist and saw mill, 
(and one other in the vicinity,) 1 to- 
bacco v/arehouse, at which the in- 
spection hds been revived, also an in- 
spection of flour. The mechanical 
establishments are — 1 tannery, 1 sad- 
dlery, 1 boot and sh^r-e factory, 3 tai 
lors, 3 smith chops, 1 thrashing ma 
chine factory, .tnd several wheel- 
wrights, caipeii. jrs and bricklayers. 
In addition to which several private 
residences and a considerable mer- 
cantile establishment are erecting in 
the vicinity of the western end of 
Buchanan. Population in both vil- 
lages about 35G persons; of whom 2 
are attorneys and 2 regular physi- 
cians. 

Rebecca Furnace, P. O. 178 
ms. from R. and 220 N. W. of W. 
This furnace and another four and a 
half miles distant from it, are the 
property of Mr D. J. Wilson; they 
are situated on Longs Entry creek, a 
branch of James river, within three 
and a half miles of the river, which 
is navigable thus far for boats of from 
four to seven tons burthen. The 
post office is located 18 ms. S. W. of 
Fincastle, 22 N. E. of Lexington, 
and 15 ms. from Pattonsburg and 
Buchanan, and derives its name 
from the furnace. At these two es- 
tablishments called the Rebecca and 
the Jane furnaces, are employed 150 
operatives, 87 of which are blacks. 
The former of these furnaces has 
been in operation 9 years, and has 
manufactured on an average from 
800 to 850 tons of pig metal per an- 
num. The latter has been in opera- 
tion only one year, and manufactured 
an equal quantity. There is a White 
Sulphur Spring adjoining tlie fur- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BROOKE. 



nace property, similar in quality to the 
well known White Sulphur in Green- 
brier ccnnty, and is called by the 
name of Dagger's or WU.so/i's 
springs. This property has lately 
been sold to a gentleman of Rich- 
mond, who has improved it in a hand- 
some style, so as to aflcrd first rate 
accommodations. It must become a 
place of considerable resort, as it has 
for several years past been visited by 
from 2 to 300 persons, and has given 
relief where other springs have been 
known to fa'l. — There is also a forge 
within 7 or 8 miles of these furnaces, 
known by the name of James river 
■farge, at which are employed from 60 
to 100 operatives, principally black 
manufacturing from 2 to 300 tons oi 
• bar iron annually. 

Salem, P. V. ISO ms. from R. and 
256 S. W. of W., situated in the 
•southern part ot the county, 60 ms. 
-S. W. of Lynchburg, in the Great Val- 
ley between the Blue Ridge and 
North mountain, at an elevation of 



1020 feet above the level of the At- 
lantic. It contains 70 houses, includ- 
ing mechanic shops, &c., 6 mercan- 
tile stores, 3 taverns, 3 houses of pub- 
lic worship, (1 Methodist, 1 Presby- 
terian and 1 Baptist,) 2 female and 
1 male school, i manufacturing 
flour mill, whh a saw mill and wool 
carding machine adjoining, (and 
1 other in the vicinity, with a saw 
mill annexed, both running 2 pair of 
buhrs and 2 pair of country stones 
and elevators,) 1 tan yard, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 saddlers, 5 blacksmith 
shops, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tai- 
lors, I extensive wheat fan manufac- 
tory, several carpenters, 1 house 
painter, and 1 hat mantjfactory. The 
Roanoke navigation from Weldon, 
N. C. to this place is completed by 
canals, sluices, &;c. — distance from 
Weldon to Salem 244 ms. White 
population 260 persons, of whom 2 
are attorneys, and 3 regular physi- 
cians ; colored 90 — total 350. 



BROOKE, 



Brooke was established by the Legislature in 1797, and taken from a 
portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by the Ohio river, which sepa- 
rates it from Columbiana co. Ohio, — W. by the same river, separating it 
from Jeflerson co. of the same State, — S. by Ohio co. Va., — and E. by Bea- 
ver and Washington covtnties of Pennsylvania. Its mean length is 31 ms., 
mean breadth 6^ ; and its area 202 square miles. The surface of this, 
county is very hilly, but the soil is very fertile. 

Buffaloe, Cross, Hamaii's, Tomlisoii' s, and a few other creeks of small- 
er size rise in Pennsylvania and flow through Brooke into the Ohio river. 
The products of the county are grain, iron, and bituminous coal. Popula- 
tion in 1810, 5,843—1820, 6,631—1830, 7,041. It belongs to the 20th 
judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 81,312 37 — in 1834. 
■on lots, 8207 50— land, $721 48—110 slaves, 627 50—2896 horses, 
S173 76— 18 studs, $114 00—7 coaches, $15 00—26 carryalls, $26 00 
'- — 5 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1,287 74. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $530 13— in 1833, $476 28. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, <Sic. 

Bethaxv. P. V. 375 ms. N. W. jit was founded in 1 SIS, and is situ- 
of R. and '::S2 N. VV. hy W. of W.iHted 26 miles from the borourrh of 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— BROOKE. 



391 



Washington in Pensylvania, on the 
beautiful stream of BufTaloe creek, 7 
miles E. of the Ohio river. It is 
surrounded by romantic scenery, and 
the creek curves around it in the 
exact form of a horse shoe, making a 
rich alluvial bottom of 120 acres. 
The surrounding country is hilly, 
variegated and very fertile, well wa- 
tered, and for salubrity of air it can- 
not be surpassed in the United States. 
This village is the residence and the 
property of Alexander C am f bell, the 
celebrated reforming Baptist preacher. 
It contains several dwelling houses, 
1 house of public worship, 1 mercan- 
tile store, i manufacturing flour mill 
and saw mill, a printing office, book- 
bindery, smith shop, and various 
other mechanical establishments. 
Bethany is about 16 ms. from Wheel- 
ing, 8 from Wells fjurg, and 38 from 
Pittsburg, Pa. The products of the 
vicinity are flour, pork, beef and 
wool. The wool growing branch of 
husbandry is increasing, and the. ar 
tide will soon become one of the 
chief staples in this part of the coun- 
try. Population 100. 

Pair VIEW, P. O. 395 ms. from'R 
and 302 N. W. by of W. Fairview 
or N. Manchester, is situated 20 ms. 
N. of Wellsbursr, 2 from the Ohio 
river on the W. and 4 from the Penn- 
sylvania line on the E. Its situation 
is beautifully elevated and heahhy. 
It was laid out in 1811 and now con- 
tains 22 dwelling houses, 2 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 houses of public wor- 
.ship, (Presbyterian,) and 1 common 
school, 2 tan yards, and 1 saddler. 
The other mechanics are tailors, boot 
and shoe mal:t-rs, carpenters, stone 
cutter.-;, chair makers, hatters, coop- 
ers, blacksmiths, and cabinet makers. 
In the vicinity there are 4 manufac- 
turing flour mills. New Manches- 
ter possesses many advantages as a 
place of business for the mechanic, 
manufacturer and merchant. Popula- 
tion 132 persons; of whom "^ are 
regular physicians 



Holliday's Cove, P. O. 384 ms. 
from R. and 291 N. W. of W. 
Holliday's Cove is situated near the 
centre of the county. It is a small 
but beautiful valley, of a semicircu- 
lar form, both ends of which termi- 
nate on the Ohio river, being 5 ms. 
in length and one broad. It deserves 
to be classed among the natural cu- 
riosities of Virginia. It is supposed 
to have been once the channel of the 
river, or of one branch of it. Be- 
tween this and the present channel 
there is literally an island, the sum- 
mit of which is at least 400 feet above 
the level of the river, and upon 
which there are three or four fine 
plantations. It contains in all about 
1000 acres of good land. The S.W. 
extremity of the valley opens in full 
view of the town of Steubenville, 
Ohio, and the northv.'estern opens on 
the Ohio immediately at the S. end of 
Brown's Island. The eastern side 
is washed by Harmon's creek, af- 
fording a very considerable amount 
of water power, which at present 
serves a woollen factory 4 or o manu- 
facturing flour mills, md several saw 
mills.- The flour n-janufactured at 
these mills, stands high in point of 
quality in the southern markets. The 
soil is first rate. The principal sta- 
ple is wool, of which three or four of 
the farmers have raised for some 
years about 10,000 weight. The 
manufactures are woollen cloths, casi- 
netto, &c. ^nd flour, — the average 
shipments oi v.^Lxii from the valley 
is annually about 10,000 barrels, the 
principal part being manufactured in 
it. There is no village or town yet 
laid out, but rapid improvements are 
going up, on the principal road which 
is the great thoroughfare from Pitts- 
burg, Pa. to Steubenville.— There 
are at present about 40 dwelling 
houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 2 
taverns. The religious denomina- 
tions are Presbyterians and Christian 
Baptists. There are a missionary, a 
temoerance, and sunday school socie- 



332 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— CABELL. 



ty. The mechanics are, 3 black- 
smiths, 3 house carpenters, 1 stone 
mason, 2 boot and shoe factories, and 
1 cabinet maker. This section ol 
country has been truly styled the 
garden spot of Brooke county, and 
being so healthy bids fair to sustain 
a large and flourishing population, 
and perhaps no part of Virginia of- 
fers a greater opening for capitalists 
than this, especially for manufactu- 
rers. Fuel, &c. may be had for lit- 
tle or no expense, as the surrounding 
hills abound with inexhaustible mines 
of stone coal and timber of everj^ 
description. Population about 300. 

WELLSBURG, P. V. and seal 
of justire, 337 ms. from R. and 280 
N. W. by W. from W., in lat. 41° 
J 8' and long. 3° 36' W. of W. C. 
This is a healthy and wealthy vil- 
lage, beautifully situated on the left 
hank of the Ohio river, immediately 
above Buffaloe creek, 16 ms. above 
Wheeling, on a plain surrounded by 
a fertile, Avell improved and healthy 
country : and inexhaustible bodies of 
the best stone coal abound on all 
sides of the place ; which is furnish- 
ed at from 4 to 5 cts. per bushel, tothe 
different manufactories, as fuel to the 
citizens, and for shipping to the 
southern markets. The neighbor- 
hood is rich and cheerful and rapidly 
improving; the people feeling the 
benefit of the home market. This 
flourishing village contains, besides 
the ordinary county buildings, about 
225 dAvelling houses, 2 houses ofj 



public worship, one JVIethodist, the 
other Reformed Baptist, 5 mercantile 
stores, 1 grocery and confectionary, 
and 2 shoe stores, 1 academy, in 
which are taught the Greek and La- 
tin languages; 3 female and 1 male 
English school, 2 white flint glass- 
works, 1 glass-cutting establishment, 
(the machinery propelled by steam 
power,) 1 large cotton factory, with a 
front of 72 feet, and 4 stories high, 
now running 1200 spindles — employ- 
ing 60 operatives, 1 steam saw mill, 
which cuts 3000 feet of plank in 12 
hours, 1 small woollen manufactory, 

1 grist mill, 1 carpet factory, a card- 
ing machine, and salt manufactory, 1 
extensive stone and red-ware pottery, 

2 tan yards, 3 saddlers, 2 printing 
ofHces, each issuing a weekly paper, 
and various other mechanics, 2 ex- 
tensive |X)Tter breweries, 3 large ware- 
houses, .3 extensive manufacturing 
mills in the vicinity, one of M'hich 
manufactured 10,000 barrels of flour 
the past year. There are between 30 
and 40,000 barrels of flour exported 
annually, from this place in steam 
and flat boats to New Orleans, tl.s 
population is about 1400 persons, of 
whom 3 are resident altorneys and 4 
regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the last 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, AugusI and No- 
vember. 

Judge Pry holds hi« Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the ith of May and October. 



CABELL. 



Cabei.1. was created by tlie legislature in the year 1809, and formed 
from a portion of Kanawha county, — It is bounded N. E. by Mason, E. by 
Kanawha, S. E. by Logan, W. by Sandy river, which separates it from 
Lloyd, Lawrence and Greenwich counties, of Kentucky, and N. by Ohio 
river which separates it from Galia and Lawrence counties, of Ohio. Its 
mean length is 35 ms. ; mean breadth 29^; and area 1,033 sq. ms. It ex- 
tends in lat from 37° 55' to 38° 40' N. and in lon.t . from 4° 45', to 5° 34' 
W. of W, C. Besides the great boundary rivers of Ohio, and great Sandy, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— CABELL. 



Cabell is watered by Guyandotte river and Twelve Pole creek, both of 
Avhich rise in Logan, and flow through this countj^ dividing it into three 
nearly equal parts; of these the former is much the largest and longest, — it 
flows through the county in a north eastern direction, and empties into the 
Ohio, a few ms. below Barboursville. The face of the country is broken 
and mountainous, and the soil for the most part rocky and barren. Popu- 
lation in 1810,2,717 — in 1820, 4,789, — during both of these periods Cabell 
included about one-third of the present county of Logan, in 1830 when the 
county was reduced to its present limits, it contained .5,834. Tax paid in 
1S33,'$6GG 14— in 1834 on lots, $33 51— on land, $315 30—313 slaves, 
$78 2.5—2,060 horses, $123 60—16 studs, $73 00—1 coach, $2 00—2 
.stages, $4 00 — 6 carryalls, $6 00. Total, $635 66. Expended in edu- 
catingpoor children in" 1832, $280 76— in 1833, $207 25. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Brownsville, (see South Land- 
ing) 

BARBOURSVILLE, P. V. and 
Seat of Ju slue, 344 ms. N. W. of R. 
and 393 S. W. by W. of W. in lat. 38^ 
24', and long. 5° 12' W. of W. C. 
Barboursville is a handsome little vil- 
lage, situated on the eastern bank of 
Guyandotte river, 7| ms. from the 
mouth of Mud river. The State turn- 
pike which leads from the eastern 
part of the state, by the great watering 
places, to the Kentucky line, passes 
through this village. A tri-weekly 
line of stages passes through the town 
to Guyandotte, where it meets a line 
of iitages from Lexingfton, Kentucky, 
and a line of steam-boats from Cincin- 
nati. It contains besides the usual 
county buildings, 25 dwelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, 1 common school, 
1 extensive manufacturing flour mill. 
1 tan yard, 1 hatter, 2 blacksmiths, 1 
tailor and various other mechanic.-^. 
Population 150 persons: of whom 2 
are attorneys, and 1 a regular physi- 
cian. 

County Courtx are held on the 4/// 
Monday in every month: — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. I 

Judge Summers holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance 
ry on the 25th of April, and Septan 
ber. 



Greenbottom, p. O. 359 ms. from 
R. and 376 from W. 

GiTVANDOTTE, P. V. 352 ms from 
R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated immediately on the banks of the 
Ohi© and Guyandotte rivers. It con- 
tains about 40 dwelling houses, 5 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 house of public wor- 
ship, free for all denominations, 1 pri- 
mary school, a steam, grist and saw 
mill, and a carding machine propelled 
by the same power, 1 tanyard, 1 sad- 
dler, and 2 cabinet makers, with a 
number of other mechanics. This 
village is advantageously situated on 
a point of land formed by the conflu- 
ence of CTuyandotte, with the Ohio ri- 
ver. It possesses commercial facili- 
ties of a high order, but hitherto its 
local advantages have from a want of 
foresight or enterprise in its citizens^ 
not Ween duly appreciated. Gruyan- 
(lotte is the western termination of the 
daily lino of stages from Washington 
City and Richmond. It is much the 
most important point of steam-boat 
embarkation, as well as debarkation 
in western Virginia, with the excep- 
tion of Wheeling, and there is no 
good reason why it should not spee- 
dily attain to what nature designed it 
should be, a thriving and flourishing 
village. Population about 300 per- 
sons; of whom 1 is a regular physi- 
cian. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FAYETTE 



South Landing, or Browyisville., 
P. V. 349 ms. from R. and 398 W. ofj 
W. South landing was incorporated 
by an act of the Virginia legislature, 
some 3 or 4 sessions since, and 2 ses- 
sions before last, its name was changed 
to that of Brownsville. It is situated 
immediately on the Ohio riA'er, 3 ms. 
below the mouth of Guyandotte, and 
where the James river and Kanawha 
turnpike first approaches the Ohio. 
It is admirably adapted for a point of 
landing, there being a sufficient depth 
of water at all seasons for steam, and 
other boats, to come up to the shore 
and ride in safety. It is already at- 
tracting notice in this point of view 
and a considerable portion of the pro- 
duce of the surrounding country, has 
found its way to the various markets 
on the river below, through this point : 
and it is more than probable from the 
excellency of thejanding — the beauty 



of the situation, the fact that it is here 
the great Virginia turnpike first ap- 
proaches the Ohio, and various other 
considerations, that this is the point 
where, before many years, the daily 
line of stages from Fredericksburg 
and other places will meet the steam- 
boat packets, and where the great 
western Virginia landing will event- 
ually, be permanently fixed. This 
town was laid off by the State Engi- 
giner, Mr. Crozet, three years since; 
but the proprietors of the land for va- 
rious causes, have not as yet, put the 
lots into market : there are, therefore, 
but 5 or 6 dwelling houses and 2 mer- 
cantile stores, yet established. But so 
soon as the point shall be sufficiently 
known, and the lots put into market, 
it is expected improvement will rapid- 
ly progress, and Brownsville, become 
a place of no little note in western 
Virginia. 



FATETTK. 

Fayette was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a 
portion of Logan, Greenbrier, Nicholas and Kanawha counties. It is 
bounded by its parent counties, N. E., N. and N. W. by Kanawha and Ni- 
cholas, E. by Greenbrier, S. E. by the same, S. and .S. W. by Logan, and 
W. by Logan and Kanawha. The limits of its latitude and longitude, or 
its extent in miles, we have no means of ascertaining. 

The mountains in this county are innumerable. The Gauly mountain 
has acquired the greatest notoriety on account of its having been the line 
dividino- the county of Kanawha from Greenbrier, — it is a continuation of 
the Cumberland mountain, which runs from south to north, and is cloven 
asunder by New river, Big and Little Sewel mountains, di\ iding Fayette 
from Greenbrier. There are many more of less note. 

New river runs through the M'hole county from E. to W. It i.s exceed- 
ingly rapid and precipitous. The junction of New river and Gauly, con= 
stitute the noble great Kanawha, 2 ms. above the falls, and 11 above the 
Kanawha county line. New ri^^er is navigable at no place between the 
eastern line of the county, and the place where it looses its name by ming- 
ling its waters with those of Gauly,-— indeed there are but few places which 
admit of ferries. The stream is borne down with so much force and 
precipitancy, as to render its crossing very hazardous, — foaming and 
pitching down a rough and rocky channel, with as much fury 
as if precipitated down a succession of precipices. The falls being so ra- 
pidly successive as to resemble artificial steps. Gauly river is the next in 
order, it is the line between the counties of Fayetfe and Nicholas {nv HP^-e- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA—FAYETTE. 335 

ral miles: after it comes Avithin 6 miles of New river it ceases to be the 
line and bends round to the S. W. and meets that noble and capacious 
stream. It is navigable about 8 ms. above its mouth. 

The Clear Fork and March Fork of Coal, also either take their rise in 
this county, or acquire great accession as they pass through it. Their ca- 
pacity is too small to admit of being much navigated. 

There is a great diversity of soil in this county, it being rich, midling 
and sterile, and producing corn, wheat, rye, oats and potatoes of both kinds. 
There are no manufactories of note. The mineral resources of the county 
have not been at all developed. There are strong and innumerable indica- 
tions of iron ore, — much surface ore is found in many places, indicating 
banks of ore, and chalybeate springs are interspersed all over the county. 

Mounds apparently of great antiquity are found in some places; from one 
of which, a human skeleton and many artificial curiosities, such as were 
common among Indians, have been taken. '"The Kanawha Turnpike 
passes through this whole county from E. to W. and by travelling along it 
within 8 or 10 ms. of the junction of New river and Gauly, )-ou come in 
sight of the former, you stand on a high cliff of rocks called Marshal's pil- 
lar, or the Hawk's nest, and see the river dashing and pitching with mad- 
dening fury, eight hundred or a thousand feet below you, — you approach 
the edge of the rock to look over with great caution and timidity, and few 
have been so bold and daring, as to approach the edge of the precipice so 
near as to take a perpendicular view to the bouom, — you may stand on the 
top of this clifT] and throw a stone into the river below. By drawing a su- 
perficial line from the top of the precipice to the bottom of the river, thence 
to the opposite cliff, and thence a horizontal line to the beginning, you 
would have a triangle, the perpendicular of which would be about 850 fl." 

The falls of Kanawha constitutes a curiosity to be specially remarked. 
The whole stream perhaps a half a mile in width, is precipitated over a 
craggy rock several perpendicular feet. The rock ci'osses the river 
obliquely, and when the water is low it is divided into tv^-o prongs, one of 
which washes the southern, and the other the northern shore, affording the 
finest water power to propel machinery of any perhaps in Virginia; but 
when the vrater is high, the rock is covered with one unbroken sheet, and 
presents to the beholder a sight of great sublimity. 

As this county has been created since the last census, there is no means 
of ascertaining its population, which was then included in that of its parent 
counties. It belongs to the 18th judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, ^220 80— in 1834,— on land, §129 65—79 slaves, $19 75 
—809 horses, $18 54— 3 studs, $9 00— 8 carryalls, $8 00—1 gig, $1 00. 
Tocal, $215 94. No report of school commissioners lor 1832. Expend- 
ed in educating poor children in 1833, $278 70. 

Countji Courts are held on the 3rd Monday in every month: — Quarter- 
hj in March, June, August and November. 

Judge Duncan holds his Superior Court of Law and Chancery on 
the \st of April and Stplember. 

Fayette being a new county, and the county town not yet designated, we 
therefore place the courts immediately under the head of the county. 



336 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FLOYD. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Coal River Marshes, P. O. 227 
ms. from R. and 336 from W. 

Gaulev's Bridge, P. O. 278 ms. 
N. W. of R. and 344 S. W. by W. of 
W., situated at the falls of the Great 
Kanawha river, 2 ms. below the junc- 
tion of Gauley and New river, and 
35 above Charleston. The river is 
here 500 yds. wide and has a fall of 22 
ft. over a ledge of rocks, which ex- 
tends entirely across the stream, and 
is received into a basin below, 60 ft 
in depth. This is the last navigable 
point on the Kanawha, and pre.sents 
one of the best sites for machinery in. 



Virginia. There are here 2 saw 
mills, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 2 
mercantile stores, and 1 hotel." A 
daily mail arrives. This is one of 
the wildest and most picturesque re- 
gions of the slate. A very fine bridge 
erected at the expense of the state, at 
this spot, was consumed a few years 
since by fire, applied by an incen- 
diary. 

Mountain Cove, P. O. 273 ms. 
from R. and 315 from W. 

Sewell's, p. O. 246 ms. from R. 
and 288 from W. 



FLOYD. 



Floyd was ci'eatod by the Legislature in January 1831, and formed 
from a portion of Montgomery county. It is bounded N. by Montgomery, 
— E. by Franklin — S. by Patrick, — and W. by Grayson. It is 35 miles in 
length from E. to W, and its mean width is 15. 

Floyd is mountainous, but there is only one of the many knobs and 
spurs which cover iis surface, which deserves to be noticed ; and this is but 
little less worthy of observation than the celebrated Peaks of Otter of Bed- 
ford. This is called from its i-esemblance to the animal, the Buffalo Knob. 
It is not itself so high as the Peaks of Otter, but its base is more elevated 
than theirs, and the prospect from the top is truly sublime. On the north, 
east, and west, the beholder is amazed at the boundless succession of 
mountains rising beyond mountains, — whilst far away to the south, the 
plain seems to stretch to an interminable length. On the east the knob is 
accessible on horse-back, being two miles in height from the beginning of 
the ascent to the highest point; on the west it breaks ofl' precipitately, and 
presents the shape of the animal whose name it bears. 

This country is watered by liittle river, a branch of New river. Little 
river is composed of three branches, called South, Middle, and West Fork^, 
upon which are situated the most fertile and extensive meadows in the 
county. Laurel Fork, a branch of Big Reedy Island creek, waters the 
•southwestern portion of the county. It washes the base of the Buflalo 
Knob. — This county lying upon the Alleghany, where it approaches the 
Blue Ridge, is not very fertile. It is mu;h belter adapted to grazing, than 
to grain. Indian corn does not thrive well, but wheat, rye, oats, and buck- 
wheat, are raised in the greatest abundance. ^ Horses, oxen, hogs and sheep 
are raised for market in groat quantities, and are the only staples. Popu- 
lation between 7 and 8000, and rapidly increasing. It belongs to the 16th 
judicial circuit and 8th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $294 46— in 1834, 
on lots, $11 54— on land, $171 56—151 slaves, $37 75—1191 horses, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



337 



871 46—6 studs, 827 00—1 coach, $2 00—5 carryalls, 85 00. Total, 
$316 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $105 52 — in 
1833, 8544 50. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, <Scc. 



JACKSONVILLE, P. V. and 
scat of justice, 227 ms. from R. and 
305 from W. This village is located 
in the most fertile and healthy part of 
the county. The lets were laid off some 
12 months since, and a considerable] 
number of them sold. It of course 
does not contain many improvements 
as yet. There is however a hand- 
some court house erected. 5 dwelling 
houses, and a number of others are 
now building, 2 mercantile stores, 1 
house of public entertainment, 1 tan 
yard, 1 saddler, 1 blacksmith shop, 
and post office. Jacksonville is situ- 
ated 100 ms. W. of Lynchburg, its 
chief market or p^ace of trade, 35 
W. of Franklin C. H., 20^ S. of 
Montgomery C. H-, 55 E. of Gray- 



son C. H., and 35 N. of Patrick C. 
H. Such is the healthiness, that there 
is only 1 physician in the county. 

County Courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Saunders holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the Mill of April and Septem- 
ber. 

Simpson's P. O. situated 21 ms. N. 
E. of the C. H. 21 1 ms. from R. and 
289 from W. 

Stonev Fork, P. O. 229 ms. from 
R. and 307 from W., situated 2 ms. 
W. of the C. H. It contains a mer- 
cantile store, tavern, and blacksmith 
^shop. 



Frederick was created by act of. Assembly in 1733, snd fort^ed from a 
portion of Orange. It is bounded N. by Morgan, Berkeley, and 
Jeflerson, — E. by Loudoun and Fauquier, — S. by Shenandoah, — and W. 
by Hardy and Hampshire. Its mean length ia 29 miles, mean breadth 
25| ; and'its area 745 square miles. It lies between lat. 3S° 50' and 39° 
25' N. and long. 0^ 48' and 1^ 2S' W. of W. C. The surface of this 
county is very much diversified by hill and mountain scenery, and hj di- 
versity of soil. It occupies S. from the Potomac part of the continuation 
of the great valley, in v/hich are situated Lebanon, the lower part of Dau- 
phin, the greatest part of Cumberland and Franklin counties, Pennsyl- 
vania, and Jefferson and Berkley counties, Virginia. The Shenandoah. 
river traverses the southeastern border meandering along the northwestern 
base of the Blue Ridge. Opequan, Back and Sleepy creeks, flowing N. 
N. E. into the Potomac, also ri.^e in Frederick. The slope of the county 
is of course northeastward, in a similar direction with the streams. The 
ground near Harper's Ferry and along the Potomac is about 200 feet 
above tide water, and allowing a similar rise from the Potomac, the mean 
height of Frederick would be about 400 feet. The soil of this county is 
highly productive, though the face of the count)' is considerabl}'- broken by 
mountain ridges. It is one of the wealthiest, most hospitable, and most in- 
telligent counties in the State. Population in 1810,22,574 — 1820,24,706 
— 1830. 26,046. It b-elongs to the thirteenth judicial circuit, and seventh 
43 



ttOQi 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



district. Tax paid in 1833, $8,987 19— in 1834 on lots, $1,113 71— 
land, $5,514 05—3,842 slaves, $9G0 50— 8,506 horses, $510 36—38 
studs, $45> VV—r,S coaches, $4-i7 80—2 stages, $4 00—47 carryalls, 
$63 9J — -1 , ^o, ^s/l 'i.i. Total, $.),119 67. Expended in educating 
poor children m 18.32, $1186 85— in 1833, $1983 47. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Back Creek Valley, P. O. 164 
ms. from R. and 85 W. of W. 



banlvs, in a valley hetwcen the river 
and Blue Ridge, n&-ar the junction of 



Battletown, or Berryville, jthc counties of Culpeper, Fauquier, 
P. O. 160 ms. from R. and 59 N. W. 'and Siienandoah. The situation of 
of W. Thi.s is a healthy and Hour- this village is eligible and pleasant.- 
ishing little village, situated on Ope- jit contains 37 dwelling houses, 2 
quan creek, on the direct post road^houses of public worship, (1 Metho- 
from Winchester to Washington idist, a neat brick building, and 1 free 
City, 12 miles from the former. It for all denomination,) 2 academies, 
contains about 30 dwelling houses, 1 m one of which is taught the Lan- 
handsome Episcopal house of public guages, 2 houses of public entertain- 
"worship, lately erected^ 1 academy, jment, 4 mercantile stores, and 1 
^nd 3 female schools, 2 mercantile apothecary shop. There is one ex- 
stores, several mechanic shops, &c. tensive manufacturing flour mill, 3 
But the business principally transact- i wagon makers, which have acquired 
ed in this place is of a commercial 'some celebrity, 3 tan yards, 2 sad- 



nature. General Morgan of Re- 
volutionary memory, resided for a 
considerable part of his life in .the 



ilers, 3 boot and shoe factories, 3 
smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 chair maker, 
1 cabinet maker, 2 house joiners, 1 



immediate vicinity of this village, brick maker, and 1 wheat fan manu- 
It was the scene of many of those factofJ^ Population 350 persons, of 
personal and party combats for which jwhom 1 is an attorney, and 3 are 
he was so remarkable. This cir-j regular physicians. Thereisasmall 
cumstance is said to have given rise jand beautiful stream passing through 
to the name of Battletown — by which jthe E. end of this village, on the 
it is now generally knowji. Its pro- 'main street, called Happy creek, 
per name is Berryville. Population 'which is visited by fish when the 



about 300 persons; of whom 2 are 
attorneys, and 5 regular physicians. 

Brucetown, p. O. 157 ms. from 
R. and 79 from W., situated 7 ms. 
W. of Winchester. It contains about 
25 houses, 1 Methodist house of pub- 
lic, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern^ 2 
manufacturing flour milk, 1 tailor, 1 
wagon maker, 1 smith sliop, and 1 
boot and shoe factory. Population 
75. 

Front Royal, P. V. 139 ms. 
from R. and 75 W. of W. It is sit- 
uated in the extreme southeastern 



Shenandoah is high; and a beauti- 
ful range of mountain scenery pre- 
sents itself in view of the town. In 
the vicinity are three manufacturing 
flour mills, turned by the noble She- 
nandoah river. About 3:^ of a mile 
from the W. end of this place, but in 
Shenandoah county, is situated Al- 
hii^s Cave, said by some to surpass 
Weyer's cave for the extent and su- 
blimity of its caverns. (See Allen's 
cave, Shenandoah Co.) This cave is 
much frequented by parties in the 
summer season. The siirroundinjr 



gle of the county, 20 ms. S. E. of country, viewing it from this village, 



Winchester, on the S. side of the 
Shenandoah river, a mile from it 



is grand and picturesque. There arc 
nianv handsome residences and de- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK, 



339 



lightful seats situated on eminences 
in the neigliborhood. Among them 
is the agreeable mansion of the hos- 
pitable and venerable James Mar- 
shall, (a brother of the Chief Jus- 
tice,) whose residence is situated on 
Happy creek, after which it is very 
properly named, as those who have 
been its guests will be willing to tes- 
tify. 

Gainsboro', p. O. 159 ms. from 
R. and 80 W. of W., situated on the 
road leading to Cumberland, 9 ms. 
N. W. of Winchester, 1 mile W. of 
Hog creek, and \ E. of Back creek. 
It contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 
houses of public worship, ( I Metho- 
dist and I Gluaker,) I common school, 
and 1 house of public entertainment. 
There are 2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 1 
boot and shoe maker, 3 smith shops, 
1 cabinet maker, 1 house carpenter, 
1 tailor, and 1 cooper. Population 
lOD persons, of whom 1 is a physi- 
cian. In the vicinity is located a 
\voollen manufactory, and 2 manu- 
facturing flour mills. 

HowELLsviLLE, P. V. 147 ms. 
from R. and 94 N. W. by W. of 
W., situated immediately on the 
banks of the Shenand3ah, where 
Howells' run empties into that river, 
about 7 ms. distant both from Front 
Royall and Berry's Ferry. This 
little village is rapidly improving. It 
contains 6 or 8 dwelling houses, 1 
hiuse of public worship, free for all 



Manassas' Gap, P. O. 134 ms. 
W. of W.C. 

MiDDLETowN, P. V. 158 ms. from 
R. and 84 N. W. of W., situated on 
Cedar creek, near the southwestern 
border of the county, 13 ms. S. W. of 
Winchester. It is a thriving and 
healtby village, containing about 55 
dwelling hou.ses, 1 Methodist and 1 
Episcopalian house of worship, 4 
mercantile stores, 2 common schools, 

2 hotels, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, i ex- 
tensive wheat machine manufactory, 
which sells annually 10 or 12 ma- 
chines at $400 each. The other 
mechanics a re wagon makers, black- 
smiths, boot and shoe makers, 2 sil- 
versmiths and watch makers, 3 tai- 
lors, 1 cabinet maker, and 1 chaif 
and bedstead maker. There is a 
flourishing academy situated two and 
a half miles distant from this village, . 
which is under the superintendence 
of the Rer. John Lodor. There are 
two mami Picturing flour mills in the 
vicinity. Population about 300 per- 
sons, l" of whom is a physician. 

Millwood, P. V. 139 ms. from 
R. and 66 N. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated 1 1 m."^. S. E. by E. of AVinches- 
ter. It contains 21 dwelling houses, 

3 mercantile stores, 1 Episcopalian 
house of public worship, a neat build- 
ing lately erected, 1 extensive tan- 
nery, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tai- 
lors, 1 wagon maker, 1 blacksmith 
shop nnd 2 manufacturins" flour mills, 



denominations, I miscellaneous store, jeach grinding from 15 to 'i0,000 
2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wagon [bushels of wheat annually. The 
maker, I boot and shoe factory, 1 'country around is rich and thickly 
smith shop, 1 fancy weaver, I house j settled, — the land of superior quality, 
carpenter, &c. The bottom lands in j producing well all the ordinary sta- 
this neighborhood are exceedingly pies. Population 112 persons; of 
rich, and produce in abundance In- whom 1 is a physician, 
dian corn, wheat, rye, oats, &.c . The! Newtown or Stephensburg, P. 



mountain lands are productive and 
well timbered. The Shenandoah is 
navigable 150 ms. above this place, 
and boats descend the river from this 
point at all seasons with 50 barrels of 
flour, and when the waters are high 
with 150, Population 30. 



V. 158 ms. from R. and 79 N. W. 
bv W. of W. This village is situa- 
ted 8 ms. S. of Winchester. It don- 
tains 88 djvelling houses, an excellent 
market house, and 2 houses of pub- 
lic worship, 1 belonging the Metho- 
dist dtmomination, and the other held 



34& 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



jointlyby the Lutherans and Grermaniperous condition, having about 100 
Reformed churches, 3 schools, 1 well members. Population 150 persons; 
organized Sunday school, 2 mercan- of whom 3 are regular physicians. 



tile stores, 3 tan yards, and 3 saddlers 
The principal occupations of the vil- 
lage are wagon and wheat machine 
makinr ' Grreat numbers of wagons 
are ma , -no less than 9 different 
establishments being engaged in this 
business, which make and send wa- 
gons to almost every part of the 
State, which for neatness, strength, 
and durability, are said not to be sur- 
passed in the United States. Popu- 
lation 700 persons; of whom 4 are 
regular physicians. 

NiNEVAH, p. O. 145 ms. from R. 
and 81 N. W. by W. of W. This 
place is situated in the northern part 
of the county, and contcins 5 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 wagon maker, 1 boot 
and shoe maker, 1 blacksmith sho]:. 
and 1 wheat machine manufactory 
Population 30. This post office haf 
recently been transferred to a country 
store, 2 miles distant, at which is lo- 
cated a tailor, boot and shoe maker, 
and a blacksmith shop. The country 
around is of limestone formation, and 
is very fertile and thickly spttiled with 
industrious and v/ealthy farmers. 

Pe.mbroke Springs, P. O. 168 
ms. from R. and 89 W. of W., situa- 
ted 18 ms, W. of Winchester. 

Snicker's Ferry, P. O. 155 ms. 
from R. and 55 from W. 

White Post, P. O. 144 ms. from 
R. and 71 N. W. of W. This is a 
flourishing little village, situated 12 
ms. S. E. of Winchester, in a beau- 
tiful and highly picturesque countr_y, 
remarkable for the fertility of its soil 
and neatness of agriculture. It con- 
tains 30 dwelling houses, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomi- 
nations, and Avhich is occupied also 
as an academy, 2 mercantile stores, 1 
tavern, 1 saddler, 2 tailors, a smith, 
and various other mechanics. A 
temperance society was organized 



White Hall, P. V. 158 ms. from 
R. and 79 N. W. of W. This vil- 
lage is situated near the northern line 
of the county, on Apple Pie Ridge. 
This ridge is an elevated and exten- 
sive ridge of fertile land, Avhich pass- 
es under different names, through 
the counties of Berkeley and Frede- 
rick, in a direction nearly north and 
south. It contains 15 dwelling 
houses, 1 Methodist house of wor- 
ship, 1 school house, 1 Sunday school 
and tract society, 2 miscellaneous 
stores, 2 wagon makers, 1 saddler, 1 
tailor, 1 blacksmith, 1 cooper, and 1 
boot and shoe factory. In the vici- 
nity, en Green Spring Run, a num- 
ber cf e::cellent and extensive flour- 
manufacturing, grist and saw mills 
are located. The Run is a beautiful 
and never failing stream, which takes 
its rise within 1 mile of the village, 
issuing out of the western side of 
xlpple Pie Ridge, it runs in a north- 
western direction, and falls into Bath 
creek. The situation of this place 
is pleasant and healthy. The sur- 
rounding country is lin:ies(one land of 
good quality, and in a high state of 
cultivation. The roads from Win- 
chester to Gerardstcwn pass through 
this village, distant 8 miles S. of the 
former, and 6 N. of the latter. The 
road from Charlcstown, .Tefferson, 
also passes through to the Bloomery 
gap, or Sherrard's Store, distant 15 
ms. from the former. Population 
70. No physician or attorney reside 
in this place. 

WINCHESTER, P. T. and Cow 
ty Scat. — Of the large and wealthy 
coupty of Frederick, and one of the 
most considerable towns in western 
Virginia, is situated in N. lat. 39° 11', 
W. long-. 77° 28';* distance from 



♦Agreeable to late observations of Capt. 



here, about 2 years since, called the <^^''f'f,"^' U- S. Topographical Engineer 
TTT-i.-, r» , 1 • • land Mr. Bruce, pnucipal ol the ^\ inches- 

Whte Post, m-\a is now in fi Pi'oS'ltg,. Acatiemv 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



J4l' 



Washington, 71 ms. ; Richmond, 150: 
Harper's Ferry, 30. Thi.s place is 
situated in the fertile valley of Vir- 
ginia, in tlie midst of a rich and abun- 
dant country, and a thriving and in- 
dustrious people. It is one of the 
oldest towns in -western Virginia. 
Being somewhat celebrated in the his- 
tory of our Indian warfare and revo- 
lutiocary struggle, a brief review of 
its early history will, it is believed, 
be interesting, as it is closely connect- 
ed with the early actions of that emi- 
nent individual, who afterwards be- 
came endeared to his countrymen byj 
the glorious deeds which gained hini| 
the noble title of Father of his coun-j 
trj^ Tradition informs us that the| 
ground on the edge oi the present site! 
of Winchester was occupied by a large j 
and pov/erful tribe of Indians, called] 
the Shawnees or Shavranccs, and 
some springs at that point, are called 
the Skavvies Springs at this day. The 
earliest acco'mts of the settlement ofj 
Winchester, state that there were 2j 
liouses on its present location as early! 
as \7oS, situated near the town run; 
but its establishment as a town CGm-! 
menced in Feb. 1752, in the 2.>tn| 
year of the reign of George the II.| 
when the Genera! Axsembbj passed anj 
"act for the establishment of the town! 
of Winchester."* In 1758 it was en-] 
larged in consideration of an addition-j 
al quanthy of land beins" laid ofi^ inj 
lots by Col. James Wood, now called' 



*When the town of Winchester was first 
laid o.T by Lord Fairfax, he made ihe town 
lots of half an acre each, and by his con- 
veyances annexed an out-lot of live acres 
adjoinins? the town, to each lovn or in-Iol; 
and by the conditio'i of each grant, made 
tlie in and the out-lots inseparable, it being 
the design of this benevolent proprietor, 
that each house holder in town, owner of a 
hit, should always have appurtenant a con- 
venient parcel of land for small cultivation 
or pasturage. 

The intent of these grants has been, hoAV- 
ever, long since evaded, by conveying one 
lot in fee, and the other by lease for 1000 
years, renewable forever at a nominal 
rem. 



in the plot of the town. Wood's addi- 
tion. Trustees were then appointed 
consisting of Lord Fairfax, Col. Mar- 
tin and others : Vide Henning's Sta- 
tutes at Large: vol. 7. p. 135. Addi- 
tions to the town, were also made by 
Lord Fairfax.! Col. Wood is there- 
fore entitled to the honor of being the 
founder. Winchester is mentioned by 
General Washington, as being one of 
the points in his route, in his celebrat-. 
ed mission, by order of Governor 
Dinwiddie, to the French authorities 
on the Ohio. . He came from Alex- 
andria to Winchester where he pro-^ 
cured baggage horses, &,c. This was 
in NovernLer 1753.:i: 

In the French and Indian warfare . 
tliat succeeded, Washington fixed his: 
head quarters at V^inchester, which 
was then a frontier stttlem.ent. The 
North mountain a few miles west of 
Winchester being the boundary. — = 
From the fear occasioned by the at-. 
tacks of the French and Indians, this 
place was almost the only settlement 
west of the Blue Ridge, which range 
of mountains, vras as late as 1756, the 
north western frontier. At that pe- . 
riod public stores to a large am.ount 
were deposited at Winchester, f*ir the. 
frontier settlement. After the distin- 
guished action at Gtreat iMeadoAvs, Ju- 
ly 4, 1754, Washington returned with- 
his regiment to Winchester to recruit, 
soon after Avhich, he was joined by 
a few companies from Maryland and 
North Carolina, after which rein- 
forcement they were ordered by the- 
Liuetenant Ciovernor, to march imme- 
diately over the Alleghany, to drive 
the French from Fort du Quesne, or 
build one in its vicinity. After the 



t Lord Fairfax was the proprietor of the 
Northern Neck of Virginia, he lived and 
died at Greenway Court, about 12 ms.from 
Winchester, and was buried at the old 
Episcopal chnrch-of that place: (See ex- 
tent of hi.s domain under Culpeper. 

tSee liistfournal of the expedition, very 
properly preserved in Marshall's life'^of 
Wa'hingion - new edition: vol. 1. p 4CL 



342 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



disastrous defeat of Braddock, Wash- 
ington with tlie remains of the brave 
Virginia troops retreated to Winches- 
ter. Upon the invasion of the fron- 
tiers by the French and Indians, 
Washington then on his way to Wil- 
liamsburg, the Seat of Government, 
was overtaken by an express, below 
Fredericksburg, with the intelligence 
that the French and Indians had bro- 
ken in upon the frontier settlements, 
and were murdering and capturing 
women and children, burning houses, 
destroying crops, &c. and that the 
troops, stationed among them were 
insufficient for their protection. He 
immediately hastened back to Win- 
chester, where the utmost confusion 
and alarm prevailed. His attempts to 
raise the militia were unsuccessful. 
He sent urgent orders to the country 
Lieutenants, east of the Blue Ridge, 
to hasten their militia to Winchester: 
but before these orders could be exe- 
cuted, the enemy which had done so 
much injury and caused so much 
alarm, had re-crossed the Alleghany 
mountain. Col. Washington after re- 
peated ineffectual efforts to arouse the 
government to act on the offensive, and 
adopt a more efficient system of war- 
fare, by sending a force sufficient to 
destroy Fort du (iuesne, at length 
prevailed, and Gen. Forbes was or- 
dered to undertake the campaign for 
its reduction. On the 24th of May, 
1758, orders were issued to Wash- 
ington's regiment to rendezvous at 
Winchester, and be in readiness to 
march in 15 days. June 24, the Vir- 
ginia troops in pursuance to the or- 
ders they had received, moved in de- 
tachments from Winchester to Fort 
Cumberland, where they assembled 
early in July. Upon the reduction of 
Fort du Quesne, (when its name was 
changed to Pitt, in honor of the then 
British Minister,) Col. Washington 
after furnishing 200 men from his 
regiment to garrison the Fort, march- 
ed the rest back to Winchester, whence 
he soon proceeded to ^Villiamsburg to 



take his seat in the house of Dele- 
gates, of which he had been elected a 
member by the Cvuvly of Frederick, 
while at Fort Cumberland. During 
these contests a Fort was built at Win- 
chester, the remains of which are still 
visible at the north end of the princi- 
ple street. In Henning's Statutes, 
vol. 7. page 33, we find the IGth 
clause of a law passed March, 17 50, 
which refers to this Fort, and the ap- 
propriation for its erection in these 
words, " and whereas it is now judged 
necessary, that a Fort should be im- 
mediately erected in the town of Win- 
chester, county of Frederick, for the 
protection of the adjacent inhabitants 
against the barbarities daily commit- 
ted by the French and their Indian 
allies: be it therefore enacted that the 
Governor or Commander-in-chief of 
the colony for the time being, is here- 
by empowered and desired to order a 
Fort to be built Avith all possible de- 
spatch, in the aforesaid town of Win- 
chester: and that his honor give such 
orders and instructions for the imme- 
diate effecting, and garrisoning the 
same as he shall think necessary for 
the purpose aforesaid." The act al- 
so appropriates the sum of £1000 for 
carrying the above provision into ef- 
fect. I'his Fort was called Fort 
Loudoun, in honor of the British 
General, Lord Loudoun, who had 
been appointed to the command of the 
British troops in America. It is stat- 
ed in the History of the Valley upon 
authorit}^ entitled lo the highest re- 
spect, the gentleman furnishing the 
information referred to, having been 
informed by Washington's officers, 
that Washington marked out the site 
of this Fort and superintiMuled its 
erection, that he bought a lot in Win- 
chester, had a blacksmith shop erected 
on it, and brought from Mount Ver- 
non his own blacksmith to make the 
necessary iron Avork for tlie Fort. 
The very spot is pointed out, where 
Washington's own residence was situ- 
ated. It is stated that his chamb»^r 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



343 



was above the gateway of the Fort in 
a situation commanding a view of the 
principal street of the town. This 
Fort covered an area of half an acre, 
and there is still much of its enbank- 
ments and mounds remaining. There 
is also a well, from which water now 
rises to the surface, sunk through the 
solid rock 103 ft. The labor of 
throwing up this Fort, and sinking 
this well, was said to have been per- 
formed by Washington's regiment. 
The Fort contained a strong Garri- 
son ; and it is stated by one of the old- 
est inhabitants of Winchester, to have 
mountedsi.v 18 pounders, six l2pound- 
ers, six 6 pounders, 4 swivels and 2 
howittzers, and to this day grape shot 
and cannon balls are found there. 
These cannons were removed from 
Winchester, early in the war of the 
revolution. This Fort was said to 
have been once reconnoitered by a 
French officer, but never was attacked 
by the enemy. Winchester was used 
for its security as a depot for Hessian 
and British prisoners, taken during 
the revolution. The number increas- 
ed so much, that barracks were erect- 
ed 4 ms. N. of the town, for their ac- 
commodation: at one time in the year 
1781, the number of prisoners was 
1600. 

Having given this sketch of the 
early history of Winchester, which in 
a Avork like this is justifiable, as it is 
interesting to all Virginians, and all 
other citizens of the United States, to 
recall the associations and localities of 
those "times that tried men's souls," 
and more especially of this /^/rtcc from 
its intimate connection with the first 
actions and trials of the Father of our 
country; we will now proceed to 
give some account of the statistics of 
Winchester. 

The principal part of the town, is 
built on low ground, from which the 
streets ascend. It is very compactly 
built, and the streets are laid out reg- 
ularly, crossing each other at right 
angles. The principal street is well 



pared, and the sidewalks in all the 
streets are more or less improved. 
The houses are generally built of 
brick or stone. The number of 
houses is about 500, and the supposed 
population near 4000. The census 
of 1830, made the population 3020 of 
the following description of persons: 
Free Avhite males, - - - 1429 

Do. females - - 1275 

Slave males, 290 

Slave females, .... 365 
Free colored males, - - - 100 

Do. females, - - 161 



Total. 



i20 



The active population of Winches- 
ter, may be arrayed under the 3 gen- 
eral division sof professional, mercan- 
tile and mechanical classes: — 

1st. Professional. — There are 6 
clergymen, 1 Methodist Episcopal, 1 
Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 Evan- 
gelical Lutheran, 1 Methodist Protes- 
tant. The legal profession is quhe 
numerous, and the Winchester Bar 
has always held one of the highest 
stations in Virginia. It has given a 
presiding Judge to the Supreme Court 
of Appeals : and several Judges to the 
bench of the General Court. There 
has been a flourishing Law School 
which only ceased with the elevation 
of the Lecturer to the Court of Appeals. 
The present number of resident law- 
yers of the Winchester Bar is 22: be- 
sides these, a number of lawyers at- 
tend the terms of the courts in Win- 
chester. 

Physicians. — The number of the 
medical profession is 7. The pro- 
mising Medical School established 
here some years since by the Medical 
Society of the Valley, has been discon- 
tinued, — two of its professors have 
been called to distinguished stations 
in other institutions, — one professor 
of Theory and Practice of Medicine, 
in Transylvania University, Ken- 
tucky, and the other, to the Chair of 
Medicine in the University of Va. 

The mercantile class of the com- 



314 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 



munity iu VVinchoskT, consists for The 
.most part of business men, who are 
careful and prudent in all their deal- 
ings. Many of them have in conse- 
quence become wealthy. There are 
41 stores in Winchester of the follow- 
.ing description : — 32 dry goods and 
.grocery stores, 1 apothecary and 
druggist, 1 auction and commission 
store, o iron stores, 2 stove and cast- 
ing manufactories, I confectionary 
and fruit store, 1 book and stationary, 
and 1 lottery office. 

The mechanics are as follows, to 
wit: — 2 brewers,^ 1 bakers, ! book- 
binder, 12 victualfers, 1 brass founder, 
13 carpenters, 3 chair makers, 1 clock 
and mathematical instrument maker, 3 
extensive coach manufactories, giving- 
employment to a great number of hand.s, 
1 gunsmith, 4 house painters and gla- 
ziers, 6 masons and bricklayers, 1 or- 
namental painter, 1 pottery, 1 rope 
and reed maker, 9 boot and shoe fac- 
tories, 5 silver smiths, v.-aich repairers 
and jewellers, 4 tanners and curriers, 
3 barbers, 1 buhr stone maker, 17 
blacksmiths, 4 brickmakers, 2 carpet 
■weavers, 4 cabinet makers, 2 copper 
smiths, 2 coopers, 2 confectiona-ries, 1 
dyer, 2 hatters, 2 lock and white 
smith's, 8 milliners, 6 plasterers, 2 
plough makers, 5 saddle and harness 
makers, 2 skindressers and glovers, 1 
silver p'ater, 1 saddle tree maker, 3 
tobacconists, 2 turners, 1 tallow chan- 
dler, 5 tinplate workers, 9 tailors, (4 
merchant tailors,) 1 upholsterer, lU 
waggon makers, 3 wca\ ers, 1 Avheel- 
wright. This list embraces 46 diiTer- 
cnt trades, and upwards of 170 master 
workmen. It is presumed that there 
are several hundred journeymen and 
apprentices employed by these per- 
sons. There are G merchant mills w 
the immediate vicinity of Winchester, 
1 cabinet ware factor\', part of the ma- 
chinery turned by water, 1 carpet fac- 
tory which makes carpeting of a su- 
perior quality, much admired for the 
beauty of its texture, and the brillian- 
cy and permanency of its colors. 



There is 1 cotton factory, but at pre- 
sent its operations are suspended. The 
abundant water power and its admi- 
rable location, justifies the prediction 
that Winchester will one day become 
a great manufacturing town. •" There 
is 1 academy for youth founded by an 
act of the Legislature, as far back as 
1738, now 46 years since. It has 
been in operation the greater part of 
that period, and has had as many as 
80 pupils in one year. It is estimat- 
ed, that at least 1 000 young men from 
difTerent and distant parts of the state, 
have been educated in part or entirely 
at this institution. This academy has 
maintained, perhaps as high a repu- 
tation as any other similar institution 
in the state. Theie arc, besides the 
academy, an institute for young la- 
dies, and 1 1 other schools. There 
are few places in the state, which pre- 
sent greater inducements to parents, 
desiring to have their children well 
educated than Winchester. It is re- 
markable for its health, the purity of 
the water; and what is more impor- 
tant for the correct, moral and reli- 
gious tone of feeling, which prevail.^ 
among most of its inhabitants. It is 
also a remarkable fact which should 
be stated, that although tliere is no 
night Avatch, a robbery is almost un- 
known, and a general state of good or- 
der prevails. The public buildings 
are a C H., clerks office, jail, mar- 
ket house and Common Council Hall, 
Masonic Hall, and Library and Ly- 
ceum building. There are several 
excellent hotels; oiie of which, lately 
erected, is surpassed probably by none 
in the state, in the accommodations 
for traveller.?. There are 9 churches 
in Winchester, 2 Presbyterian, 1 
Episcopalian, 2 Methodist's, (1 for co- 
lored persons,) I Roman Catholic, I 
Lutheran, 1 Baptist, 1 Friend's or 
(duaker's. The Episcopal church 
erected m 1820, is one of the best spe- 
cimens of Gothic artichecture in the 
state. It is much admired by stran- 
gers for the beauty and appropriate- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK, 



nessof the style of architecture. It is, is no place in the Union better sup- 
finished with great taste in the inte- {plied with water, or of better quality, 
rior, and has a fine toned organ. iPhiladelphia boastsof its water works, 
There is no asylum in Winchester, ibut the water there is river water, 
but there are a great many associa-lwhilst that supplied to the citizens of 
tions for benevolent, religious or lite- j Winchester is spring water, cold 
rary purposes; such as the Bible So- enough to be used without ice during 
ciety. Tract Society, with a flourish- Uhe summer. The water was intrc- 
ing Depository. Sunday School Union, jduced into the town 28 or 30 years 
w^ith a good and increasing depository, lago by wooden pipes, through which 
for the supply of 7 counties around lit was conducted from a fine, never 
Winchester; ladies' Benevolent Socie- j failing spring, about half a mile west 
ty, for relieving and attending to thejof the town, — the right to the use of 
wants of the poor and destitute sick, [which, was reserved to the citizens 
ladies Colonization Society, a general of Winchester by Lord Fairfax, by 
Temperance Society, Young Men's express provision. The wooden pipe's 
Temperance and Colonization Socie- were taken up in 1828, and iron pipes 
ties, a JNIechanic's Society, a prospe- put down in their places. The main 
Tous Masonic Lodge and Chapter, 2 pipe has a bore of about 6 inches: the 
large fire companies, provided Avith lateral pipes about 3 inches. The 
engines, hose and necessary appara- [length of the iron pipes is about 3 
tus. There is a Library and Lyceum of ms. The whole cost to the corpora* 
reading, to which is attached a goodition did not exceed 812,500. The 
collection of minerals. The Library I water is now convej-ed in these pipes 



is yet small, which is partly to be at 
tributed to the number of private Li- 
braries owned in the town. There 
are 2 printing offices in Winchester, 
one issues the Winchester Virginian, 



through all the principal streets, and 
by lead pipes leading from the iron, 
into the j-ards of a majority of the 
cititizens, without their paying any 
water tax for the privilege. The .wa- 



the other, the Winchesier Republican, ter is carried to the extreme parts of 
There is also a monthlj' periodical jthe tovvU, affording a constant and 
published at the Republican office, for j abundant supply for all the purpwDSes 
the publication of sermons, generally i of domestic use, and to extinguish fire 
of living ministers of the Lutheran [if necessary; for which purpose, fire 
church, of all parts of the United plugs are provided at convenient die 
Slates. It is extensively circulated, tanccs. 

and w-ll patronized b\' the members | This article Will nou- be concluded, 
of this church. There are 2 Banks j with a brief notice of the internal im- 
in Winchester, the Farmers' Branch ^ pro vemeius in contemplation, and in 
Bank, and the Bank of the Valley, j progress connected with Winchester, 
with branches at Romnej^ Leesburgi These are the Valley turnpike, (for 
and Charlestown. The Winchester i which the Legislature passed an act 
and Frederick County Savings Insti-|the last session) to extend from Win- 
tution, incoporated last session of theichester to Harrisonburg. This road 



Legislature, has lately gone into ope 
ration with encouraging prospects. 
Winchester possesses one great and 



has not yet been commenced, but 
when made will greatly increase the 
ti'avelling through this Valley, which 



inestimable advantage as a place of! presents great inducements to travel- 
residence, which would leave this ar-jlers, from the beauty of its scenery, and 
tide imperfect not to notice in detail. I its mineral springs. Perhaps no part 
We mean the never failing supply ofiof the world affords a greater variety 
pure, wholesome spring water. There of mineral springs, of qualitif-^ \n- 
41 ' ' 



SiS WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. 

estimable in the restoration of health, proximit}- with tlie ra^tern cities, and 
than the Valley of Virginia. The the natural increase of business and 
state road from Winchester to Park- j population, must have an influence on 
ersburg, on the Ohio, is now being i the prosperity of this place — the ex- 
made: it v.ill be completed, it is tent of which no one can foresee. If 
thought, within 2 years, — its length the same results attend these improvc- 
is 235 ms. This will be a very im-jmenls which have been produced in 
portant road in connecting the Atlan-; other places, which are destitute of 
lie with the western stales; but the [the sawe natural advantages, the pros- 
great outlet for all these roads, and iperJty of Winchester must be incrcas- 
for the rich Valley of Virginia, will ed to an extent, unparalleled in all its 
be the Winchester and Potomac Rail previous history. 
Road, commenced in 1833 : this road I County and Corpnrotion Courts 
it is thought, will be completed inlare held on the Monday before the 
1836, — its length is about 31 ms. con-i \st Tuesday in every month. Qt/ar- 
necting at Harper's Ferry, with those I ^e?-/?/ in March, June, August and 
two grand national works, the ]ia\u-Nove7nber. 

more and Ohio Rail Road, and thej Jiidge Parker, holds his Circuit 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. Thej Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
efTect of these improvements in rais- ry on the 1st nf May and Novcvi- 
ing the A'alue of property in Winches-! Z>e?-. 
ter, from bringing it in such closer 



Giles was created by the Legislature in 1806, and formed from a por- 
tion of Tazewell and INIonroe counties. It is bounded N. by Monroe, — N. 
E. by Botetourt, — E. and S. E. by Montgomery, — S. by Wythe,— S. W. by 
Tazewell, — and W. by the greatllat top mountain, which separates it from Lo- 
gan. The form of this county approaches to a half moon, and the length be- 
tween the points about 70 miles. It lies between kit. 37° 06' and 37° 43' 
N. and long. 3° 15' and 4° 15' W. of W. C. This county is very moun- 
tainous, the mean level of the cultivated land being 1600 feet above the 
ocean. 

Several ridges of mountains pass through this county, the principal of 
which are Peter^ s and East River mountains. These are parts of the 
same ridge, which appear to have been split asunder by the Avaters of 
New river, which passes through them at the Big Fall. Near Parisburg, 
proudly preeminent stands The AngeV s Rest, a pinnacle that overtops all 
the mountains of the neighborhood, and affords one of the most interesting 
prospects in the western country. The Salt Pond mouiitain also deserves 
particular notice. This mountain derives its name from the circumstance, 
that the old settlers of the country usually gathered their stock, that ran in 
the range at this place, for the purpose of giving them salt. It is situated 
about 12 miles to the east of Parisburg; near the lop of it, there is an im- 
mense lake of water of an unknown depth and 3 or 4 miles in circumfer- 
ence. It is said by the old settlers of the country that this pond has arisen 
from a spring which fiovved into a kind of natural basin situated between 
two lofty mountains, and has gradually increased overtoping tree after tree, 
which grew on the sides of the mouulain, until it at lust found an outlet 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. dif 

over the ridgethat unites the two mountains. This pond now forms a 
beautiful expanse of water near tlie summit of one of the loftiest moun- 
tains in Virginia, whicli frequently excites the curiosity of strangers, and 
to which the gentry of the county often resort for the object of pleasure 
and amusement. 

In the upland and mountainous parts of the county the soil is barren and 
rocky, but in the valleys between the mountains and on the low o-rounds 
of the creeks and rivers, the land is very fertile and produces freely every 
kind of grain. Hemp is the principal staple, a considerable quantity of 
which is annually wagoned to Buchanan, at the head of boat navigation 
on Jame^ river. In a direction from S. E. to N. W. New river runs 
through this county, and fertilizes a large portion of its soil. The bottoms 
on each side of this stream are remarkably rich and constitute the most 
valuable part of the county, affording many handsome country seats, which 
in some instances are improved with substantial houses. This river is also 
remarkable for its fine fish, particularly the mi>.d and blue cat, which are 
very much celebrated among travellers for their fine flavor and astonishing 
size, some weighing from 60 to 70 pounds. Other streams of less note 
penetrate through this county, the advantages derived from which are very 
considerable in a country like this, where the most choice spots are those 
which lie on the margin of water courses, and have been enriched by their 
fertilizing influence. 

The White Sulphur Springs of Giles county are supposed to be inferior 
in quality to none in the State, while they combine with the excellence of their 
waters many advantages of natural scener^^ which if they were well im- 
proved would give them a superiority over most of the watering places in 
the neighbormg counties, and would be a source of increasing wealth to 
the county of Giles. These springs are situated on the banks of New- 
river, 9 miles E. of Parisburg, on what is supposed to be the nearest route 
from that place to Christiansburg in the counter of Montgomery. . Here 
the mind at one moment may be engaged with the most pleasing emotions, 
derived from the river scenery, and at the next it Vv'ill be struck with the 
sight of the most awful and majestic cliffs, which at this place overhang- 
the bed of the river, in all ihe pomp of lonely grandeur. In a few years; 
if these springs should be properly managed, and sufficient accommodationii 
provided, thoy will afford one of the most delightful summer retreats in the 
western part of the State, — possessing everyjadvantage that the invalid can 
reasonably hope for, and presenting inany attractive inducemems for the 
votaries of pleasure and gaity. 

The most numerous religious sect of the county is that of the Metho' 
dists ; but they have as yet erected no house of worship deserving notice. 

Population in 1820, 4,52-2 — the county then including a large tract now- 
included in Logan county — in 1830, 5,270. This county belongs to the 
16th judicial circuit, and 8th di.strict. Tax paid in 1833, $564 21 — in 
1834, on lots, $21 20— on land, $266 15—298 slaves, $74 50—2348 
horses, $140 83—9 studs, $47 00—3 carryalls, $3 00— I gig, 50 cts. 
Total. $553 23. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $281 6§ 
—in 1834, $.290 56. 



318 WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Big Spring, P. O. 264 ms. S. W. 
of R. and 324 S. W. by W. of W. 
situated in the western part of the 
county, on the main post road lead- 
ing fiom Parisburg to Tazewell C. 
H. — 27 ms. from the former. It 
contains several dwelling houses, a 
grist mill, a wool carding machine, 
and a blacksmith shop. It is located 
within 100 yards of the line which 
divides the counties of Tazewell and 
Giles. Population 9 whites and 7 
blacks. 

Chapman's Mills, P. O. 255 ms. 
S. W. of R. 

PARISBURG, P. V. and county 
seat, 297 ms. S. W. by W. of W. C. 
and 240 S. ^N. from R., lat. 37^^21' 
Jong. 3° 43' W. of W. C. This 
village is situated on the S. W. side 
of New river, three-fourths of a mile 
from its bank, where that stream 
passes through Peters' mountain, im- 
mediately above the gap, and directly 
on the main post road, 18 ms. from 
the Red Sulphur Springs. It was 
established by act of Assembly, and 
laid oft' in June 180G ; but owing to 
its then being in one of the extreme 
frontier counties, the improvements 
have progressed but slowly. It con- 
tains, besides the ordinary county 
buildings,(which are handsome) about 
30 dwelling houses, (mostly built of 
stone) and a number of others in 
progress of erection, 4 mercantile 
stores, 2 taverns, 2 common schools, 
2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 2 hatters, 2 
cabinet makers, 1 chair maker andj 
painter, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 ! 
wheelwright, 1 tailor, and 1 brick | 
and stone mason. Nine miles dis-i 
tant from this village, are situated the' 
Hyg(27i Springs, a. white sulphur — i 
the water of which is supposed to 
contain medical properties inferior to 
none in Virginia. The scenery at 
these springs is grand ; they are situ- 



ated immediate!}'' on the eastern bank 
of New river, and both opposite and 
below the springs the rocks present 
the most majestic appearance : there 
being several Natural Pillars that 
rise perpendicularly to the height of 
from 30 to 200 feet, and natural 
arches ; one pillar is denominated 
"Pompey's Pillar "-^ncar which is 
"Cassar's Arch :" the pillar and arch 
nearly join. Five miles from these 
springs, and 10 E. of Parisburg, is 
situated the Salt Pond, a natural 
lake. The mountain on which this 
lake or pond is situated, is supposed 
to be the highest in Virginia; being 
one of the spurs, or it might be called, 
the main Alleghany mountain. The 
situation of Pari.sburg is eligible and 
picturesque; being located at the ex- 
tremity of a mountain called "Angel's 
Rest," and which is a continuation 
of what is further west called "Clinch 
mountain." From the top of Angel's 
Rest, is an extensive view of New 
river and the surrounding country. 
Newbern, in Montgomery, can be 
'seen at 22 miles distant — and various 
I other places. There is a line of 
stages running daily through this vil- 
'lage from Wyihe C H. to Lewisburg, 
JGreenbrier county. — This line leaves 
the main western route at Newbern, 
Irunning from Washington City, to 
Knoxville, Tenn. There is also a 
mail from Franklin, and another from 
Tazewell C. H., runnina: into this 
place once a week. White popula- 
tion 170 persons; of whom 2 are 
resident attorneys, and 1 a regular 
physician — colored 34 — total 204. 

County Courts arc held on the last 
Monday m every month. Quarterly 
in March, June August, and Oc- 
tober. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of LaAv and Chance- 
ry on the 9/// of Ma.v and October, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GRAYSON. 



349 



GRAYSON. 

Grayson was establislied by the Legislature in the year 1793, from a 
portion of the county of Wythe. It is bounded N. by Wythe, — N. E. by 
Montgomery, — E. by Patrick, — S. by Surry and Ashe counties of N. C. — 
and W. by Washington. Its mean length is 66^ miles, mean breadth 14; 
and its area 927 square miles. It e.xtends in lat. from 36° 33' to 36° 53', 
and in long, from 3° 28' to 4° 46' W. of VV. C. Grayson is the most 
eastern of the southern counties of Virginia, which are comprised in the 
valley of the Ohio river. Great Kanawha rises in Ashe county of N. C 
and flows northeastwardly into Grayson, and thence turning eastward about 
20 miles along the line of Va. and N. C; and turning N. N. E. it tra- 
verses , Grayson, which it leaves by piercing the iron mountain. This 
county slopes northward, and is drained by innum.erable creeks, which 
flow into the Great Kanawha, which is here called New river. The ele- 
vation of Grayson is about 1600 feet above the level of the ocean. 

Population 'in 1810, 4,941— in 1820, 5,598— in 1830, 7,675. This coun- 
ty belongs to the 10th judicial circuit and 5th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$468 45— in 1834 on lots, $10 51— on land, $232 90— 215 slaves, 853 75 
—2238 horses, $134 28—8 studs, $31 00—1 coach, $2 00—4 carryalls, 
84 50. Total, $468 97. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$544 15— in 1833, $495 23. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, 6lc. 



Cranberry Plain, P. O. 277 
ms. S. W. by VV. of R. and 353 from 
W., situated on Cranberry creek, a 
small branch of the Great Kanawha, 
which rises in the Iron mountains, 
and flows S. over the west angle ol 
Graysen, into Ashe Co. N. C. 

GREENSVILLE, or GRAYSON 
C. H. P. V. and Seat of Justice, 276 
ms. from R. and 354 S. W. by W. of 
W., situated on the right bank of 
New river, 25 ms. S. S. E. of Ever- 
sham, the county seat of Wythe. It 
rontains beside.s the usual county 



buildings, 9 dwelling houses, 3 miscel- 
laneous stores, 1 tavern, and several 
mechanics. White population 49 
persons: of whom 1 is an attorney — 
blacks 19— total 68. 

County Courts are held on the ^th 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \Qth of April and Sep- 
tcrdbcr. 



GREENBRIER. 



Greenbrier was formed by the Legislature in 1777, and created from 
portions of Botetourt and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Nicholas, 
and Pocahontas, — E. by Bath, and Alleghany, — S. by Monroe, — and W. 
by Great Kanawha, which separates it from Logan. Its mean length is 46 
miles, mean breadth 32.^ ; and area 1,409 square miles. It extends in lat. 
from 37° 40' to 38° 18' N. and in long. 3° to 4° 3' VV. of W. C. It is prin- 
cipally drained by Greenbrier rivt'r. and its tributaries: but from it.s west- 



350 WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 

em border numerous creeks flow northwestwardly into Gauly river, tiio 
principal of which is SeweWs creek* It rises in Sewell's mountain (the 

* The Ibllowin!^ is an extract from memoirs of Indian wars on the western fron- 
tier of Virginia, communicated to the Philosophical Society of Virginia, by Charles 
A. Stuart, Esq. of Augusta Co. 

About the year 174!), a person who was a citizen of the county of Frederick, and 
subject to paroxysms of lunacy, when influenced by such fits, usually made excur- 
sions into the wilderness, and in his rambles westwardly, fell in on the waters of 
Greenbrier river. At that time, the country on the western waters were but little 
known to the English inhabitants of the then colonies of America, being claimed by 
the French, who had eommenced settlements on the Ohio and its waters, west of the 
Alleghany mountains. The lunatic being surprised to find waters running a dificr- 
ent course from any he had before known, returned Avith the intelligence of his dis- 
covery, which did abound with game. This soon excited the enterprize of others. 
Two "men from New England, of the name of Jacob Marlin and Stephen Sewell, 
took up a residence upon Greenbrier river ; but soon disagreeing in sentiment a quar- 
rel occasioned their separation, and Sewell, for the sake of peace, quit their cabin 
and made his abode in a large hollow tree. In this situation they were found by the 
late General Andrew Lewis, in the year 17ol. Mr. Lewis was appointed agent for a 
company of grantees, who obtained from the Governor and Council of Virginia, an 
order for one hundred thousand acres of land lying on the waters of Greenbrier river, 
— and did, this year, proceed to make surveys to complete the quantity of said grant- 
ed lands ; and finding Marlin and Sewell living in the neighborhood of each other, 
inquired what could induce them to live separate in a wilderness so distant from the 
habitations of any other human beings. They informed him that ditference of opin- 
ion had occasioned their separation, and that they had since enjoyed more tranquility 
and a better understanding; for Sewell said, that each morning when they arose anS 
Marlin came out of the great house and he from hi> hoUoAV tree, they saluted each 
other saying — good morning Mr. Marlin, and good morning Mr. Sewell, so that a 
good understanding then existed between them; but it did not last long, for Sewell 
removed about forty mile's further west, to a creek thai, still bears his name. There 
the Indians found him and killed him. 

Previous to the year 1775, Mr. Lewis had completed for the grantees, under the 
order of council, upwards of fifty thou.^and acres ; — and the war then commencing 
between England and France, nothing funlier was done in t'le business until the year 
1761, when his majesty issued his proclamation commanding all his subjents within 
the bounds ot the colony of Virginia, who were living, or who had made settlements 
on the western waters, to remove from them, as the lands were claimed by the In- 
dians, and good policy required that a peaceable understanding should be preserved 
with them, to prevent ho.stilities on their part. The order of council was never after- 
wards carried into effect, or his majesty's consent obtained to confirm it. 

At the commencement of the revolution, when the state of Virginia began to as- 
sume independence, and held a convention in 17Tii, some efforts were made to have 
the order of council established under the new order of things then beginning to take 
place. But it was not confirmed; and commissioners were appointed in 1777, to 
grant certifieatcs to each individual who had made settlements on the western waters, 
in the state of Virginia, previous to the year 176S and since, with preference accord- 
ing to the lime of improvements,, which certillcalos gave the holder a right to four 
hundred acres for his settlement claim, and the pre-emption of one thousand more, if 
so much were found clear of prioi claims, and the holder chose to accept it. The 
following year, 1771, Greenbrier was separated from Botetourt county, — and the 
county took its name from the river, which was so named by old Colonel John Lewis, 
father to the late General, and one of the grantees under the order of council, who 
in company with his son Andrew, exploring the country in 17.'>1, entangled himself 
in a bunch of green briers on the river, and declared he M'ould ever after call the 
river Greenbrier river. 

After peace was confirmed between England and France, in the year 17ijl, the In- 
dians commenced hostilities in 17^53, when all the inhabitants in Greenbrier were 
totally cut off by a party of Indians, headerl by the Cornstalk warrior. The chief 
settlements were on Muddy creek. These Indians, in number about sixty, introduced 
themselves into the people's houses under the mask of fiieudship, — and every civility 
was ottered them by the people, providing them victuals and accommodations for 
their entertainment, when, on a sudden, they killed the men and made prisoners of 
the women and children, From ilieih'c ilie\' y)asseil over into the T^e^-els. whei'e some 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 351 

highest mountain in this county,) and is one of the extreme southern 
sources of Gauley river. The surface of this county is much broken and 
in parts mountainous. The most conspicuous is that known by the name 
of Keencijs Nob, on which is a creek which rises near the top of the 
mountain, runs west and empties into New river, one mile below Rich- 
mond's falls. Keeney's Nob runs parallel with New river. The country 
here is a wilderness. The mountains are covered with a growth of large 
timber of various kinds, and are infested with reptiles, such as the rattle 
snake, copper head, black snake, <kc. &c. There is an abundance of deer, 
w;ild turkeys, pheasants, wolves, wild cats, panthers, bears, and a variety of 
small game. — The mean elevation of the farms above the ocean level is at 
least 1500 feet. The staples of this county are Indian corn, oats, buck- 
wheat and cattle. 

Population in 1820, 7,340, and in 1830, 9,006. This county belongs 
to the I 7th judicial circuit and Olh district. Tax paid in 1833, $1719 75 
— m 1834 on lots, $49 70— on land, $858 39—644 slaves, $161 00— 
4788 horses, $287 28—22 studs, $208 00—21 coaches, $42 50—2 

families were collected at the house of Archibald Clendenin, (Avhere the Hon. Balard 
Smith now lives.) There were belM een fifty and one hundred persons, men, women- 
and children. I'here the Indians were entertained, as at Muddy creek, in the mo.st 
hospitable manner. Clendenin having just arrived from a hunt, with three fat elks, 
they were plentifully feasted, hi the mean time an old woman, with a sore leg, was 
showing her distress to an Indian, and inquiring if he could administer to her relief; 
he said he thought he could — and drawing his tomahawk, instantly killed her and all 
the men almost that were in the house. Conrad Yolkom only escaped, by being some 
distance from the house, when the outcries of the women and children alarmed him. 
He fled to Jackson's river and alarmed the people, who were unwilling to believe 
him until the approach of the Indians convinced them. All fled before them ; and 
they pursued on to Carr's creek, in Rockbridge county, where many families were 
killed and taken by them. At Clendenin's a scene of much cruelty was performed ; 
and a negro woman, who was endeavoring to escape, killed her own child, who was 
pursuing her crying, lest she might be discovered W its cries. Mrs. Clendenin did 
not fail to abuse the Indians with terms of reproach, calling them cowards, &c. al- 
though the tomahawk was dravv-n over her head, with threats of instant death, and 
the scalp of her husband lashed about her jaws. The prisoners were all taken over 
to Muddy creek, and a party of Indians retained them there till the return of the 
others from Carr's creek, when the whole were taken off together. On the day they 
started from the foot of Keeney's Knob, going over the mountain, Mrs. Clendenin 
gave her infant child to a prisoner woman to carry, as the prisoners Avere in the 
centre of the line with the Indians in front and rear, and she escaped into a thicket 
and concealed herself until they all passed by. The cries of the child .soon made 
the Indians inquire for the mother, who was missing; and one of them said he would 
soon bring the cow to her calf Taking the child by the heels, he beat its brains out 
against a tree, and throwing it down in the path, all marched over it, till its guts 
were all trampled out with the horses. She told me she returned that night in the 
dark, to her own house, a distance of more than ten miles, and covered her husband's 
corpse with rails, which lay in the yard, where he was killed in endeavoring to 
escape over the fence, with one of his children in his arms; and then she went into 
a corn-field, where great fear came upon her, and she imagined she saw a man stand- 
ing by her, within a few steps. 

The Indians continued the war till 17(51, and with much depredation on the fron- 
tier inhabitants, making incursions as far as within a fcAV miles of Staunton. An 
end, however, was put "to the war in the fall of that year, by the march of an army 
imder the command of Colonel Bouquet, a British othcer, who assembled, with his 
regular troops, at Fort Pitt, some companies of militia from Augusta county and 
other places,— which, I belive, either volunteered their services or were such as were 
ordered on the frontiers to protect the inhabitants during the war. Colonel Bouquet 
held a treaty with the Indians somewhere near Muskingum, and the Indians deliver- 
ed up many prisoners, who returned to their friends, and a peace was concluded, 
which continued imtil 1771. 



'52 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 



stages, $4 00—11 carryalls, Si 1 00— 10 gigs, $5 10. Total, $1,671 97. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, i5»537 90^in 1833, iiocom- 
missioners report. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Anthony's Creek, P. O. 254 ms. j 
from W. and 212 N. W. by W. of R. 
This post office is located in the north 
eastern patt of the county, and is call- 
ed after the name of a small stream 
running N. E. and S. VV. nearly 
parallel with the Greenbrier, until it 
empties into that river, 30 ms. from 
its source. It rises in small rills on 
the north side of the Alleghany 
mountain, and runs along its foot, 
gradually increasing to the width of 
about 50 feet at its mouth — in a beavi- 
tiful well timbered valley. The 
land is fertile and well adapted to all 
kinds of grain and grazing. Horses, 
cattle, &c. are raised in abundance in 
this valley. There are between 70 
and 80 dwelling houses on the difter- 
ent farms, and the principal pursuit 
of the inhabitants i.s agriculture, 
though there are many mechanics, 
such as tanners, blacksmiths, gun- 
smiths, carpenters, joiners, cabinet 
makers, watch makers, boot and shoe 
makers, &c. There are 2 houses of 
public worship, (I Presbyterian and 
1 Methodist,) 3 common schools, 1 
temperance society, 1 mercantile store, 
4 grist and 5 saAv mills. The situa- 
tion of this post office is handsome 
and eligible, on the main post road 
leading from the Warm Springs in 
Bath county; which crosses the 
.Greenbrier near the mouth of Antho- 
ny's creek, on a neat and permanent 
^covered free bridge, near 200_ feet in 
length, and which intersects the Ka- 
naAvha turnpike road 13 ms. west of 
■Lewisburg; — distant 21 ms. from the 
county seat, and 13 N. E. of the 
White Sulphur Springs. This val- 
ley has the Alleghany mountain on 
the S. and other hills too steep for 
cultivation on the north. , They af- 
ford, however, extensive ranges for 



stock in summer, and wild game fof 
the hunter is still found. 

Blue Sulphur Springs, P. O. 
234 ms. W. of R. and 276 S. W.^b.^ 
VV. of VV. C, situated 20 ms. from the 
White Sulphur Springs, 10 S. W. of 
Lewisburg, and 18 ms. N. of the 
Salt Sulphur Springs. They take 
their rise in a narrow, yet beautiful, 
and fertile valley, which is terminat- 
ed a short distance above by lofty 
mountains. This valley is a branch 
or arm of a larger one, here thrown 
out as if to penetrate deeper into the 
solitude of the mountains, by whose 
lofty battlements it is almost encir- 
cled. These mountains present their 
towering heads high above the adja- 
cent country, covered with a richly- 
variegated forest, which the timid 
deer seek for shelter from the eager 
pursuit of their enemies. From their 
rocky sides gush limpid springs, 
which uniting, form a beautiful rivu- 
let that irrigates and fertilizes tie 
bottoms below. It pursues its gentle 
and meandering line down the valley 
which widens as the hills recede,.un- 
til it is lost by its union with another 
stream of its own name. 

The mountain scenery is indeed 
rich and romantic, presenting an. al- 
most endless variety, interestijig and 
delightful. Here the painter may 
find etuployment in sketching the 
bold outline of nature's works-r-the 
botanist in contemplating the beauties 
and varieties of the vegetable king- 
dom — and thephilosopher and mine- 
ralogist, in speculating upon the un- 
explored regions of fossil and mine- 
ral formations, with which these moun- 
tains so richly abound. 

Within the precincts of the springs 
stand groves of sugar maple, inter- 
spersed with other forest trees, in al! 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 



353 



the beautiful irregularity of nature; 
under their luxuriant foilage, is 
spread a verdant carpet, inviting the 
weary to rest, — the seekers of health 
and pleasure to recline, and inhale 
the pure breeze that passes by, and 
taste the salubrious fountain that bub- 
bles beneath. Nature has performed 
her part, and it remains alone for the 
hand of enterprise and industry, to 
develope the beauty and utility of this 
highly favored spot. The proprie- 
tors, sensible of its value and advan- 
tages, are now engaged in erecting 
upon it improvements commensurate 
with the utmost demands of the pub- 
lic. The buildings are planned and 
commenced upon an extensive scale, 
uniting elegance, convenience, and 
durability. The grounds within the 
precincts of the establishment will be 
so laid out as to promote the ease 
and enjoyment of the visiter, and at 
the same time, add to the convenience 
and embellishment of the premises. 
From 20 to 30 thousand dollars will 
be expended as soon as practicable; and i 
other additional improvements made 
as the interests of the public may re- 
quire. The day is not distant, when the 
Blue Sulphur Springs will be brought 
into successful competition with any 
other watering place of fashionable 
resort in Western Virginia, 

Dr. Simpkins remarks, "that hav- 
ing practised medicine in the county 
of Greenbrier for some 9 or 10 years, 
I have had during that period annual 
manifestations of the healing powers 
of the Blue Sulphur water, in the 
following catalogue of diseases, viz. 
dyspepsia in its first stage: dyspepsia 
or indigestion complicated with de- 
ranged function of the liver; habitual 
constipation, arising from a deficiency 
oi healthy bile, from, sedentary habits, 
or from atony, or weakness of the 
boTvels. In the sequel, of Asiatic 
cholera, 1 have had reason to believe 
the Blue Sulphur water to be a pow- 
erful restorative." 

In hemorrhoidal afTections it is par- 
ly 



ticularly serviceable. In that endless 
variety of nervous and hypochon- 
driacal feelings, which have their 
origin in a deranged state of the di- 
gestive and glandular organs, the 
remedial efficacy of the water, when 
brought inco judicious operation, will 
insure permanent relief: — also in that 
family of distempers which have their 
seat in the skin, the Blue Sulphuir 
water m.ay be regarded as a never 
failing remedy. 

Cases of great debility and ema- 
ciation of system, produced by a long 
existence of some local disease, it is 
peculiarly adapted. 

In all afTections growing out of 
some perversion in the uterine func- 
tion ; — as hysteria, chlorosis, or greeh 
sickness; partial or total suppression 
of the: menstruel secretion, &.C., the 
Blue Sulphur water may be resorted 
to in full confidence of obtaining 
speedy relief. 

From the tried virtues of this 
medical spring in the list of diseases 
above enumerated, I think we may 
correctly infef, that it. holds at least" 
[three active medicinal qualities in its 
compositicT?, viz. a tonic quality, 
i which admirably sui5tains and hus- 
bands the debilitated system, \vhile 
the alimentary canal, and glandular 
organs, are e.^ciently operated upon 
by its cathartic and deobstruent pow- 
ers. 

Clintonville, p. O 231 m.?. N. 
W. of R. and 273 from VV., situated 
on the James- and Kanawha turnpike, 
near the junction of the Warm 
Spring and old State road, 11 ms. 
west of Lewisburg, 13 ms. S. W. of 
Frankfort, 44 S. E. of Surnmerviile, 
:39 E, of Fayette C. H. and 8 ms. 
W. of Sewell's m.ountain. The 
ridge which divides the lime from 
the freestone country, is in the imme- 
!diate vicinity of this place. A daily 
iand a weekly mail arrive at this vil- 
|lage. The improvements consist of 
several dwelling houses, 1 house of 
.entertainment, 1 miscellaneous store, 



^.4 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. 



a blacksmith shop, 1 cabinet maker's |Whom 7 are attorneys, and 3 regular 

establishment, and 1 Methodist house physicians! 

of worship. Population 16 whites The western branch of the Court 

of Appeals sets here, and commences 
its session the ]st Monday m July, 
and if business requires may set 90 
days. The U. S. District Court set? 



and 8 black 

Frankfort, P. V. 231 ms. from 
R. and 273 S. W. of W., situated 10 
lus. N. E. of Lewisburg, and 3 W. of 



on the Friday succeeding the lit 
Monday of April and September. 

County CoMr/5 are held on the 4^j|^ 
Monday in every m.or[\\\\— Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and Np-i 
vember. . , 

Circuit Superior Courts of Iiaw 



Greenbrier river, in a beautiful and 
wealthy part of the county. It con- 
tains about 50 dwelling houses, 1 
Methodist house of worship, 2 com- 
mon schools, 1 for males and 1 for 
females, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 

1 tanyard, 1 saddler, and various oth-'j 

er mechanics. Population 230 per-iand Chancery are held on the lO^Aof 
sons; of whom. 1 is an attorney, andlMay and October, by Judge Tay- 

2 are regular physicians. There are'tOR. 

very extensive sales of stock annually! Lick CreeS, P. O. 236 ms. frorh 
effected in the neighborhood of this R. and 293 N. W. by W- of W., sita- 
village. lated near the county line of Fayette. 

HocKMAX, P. 0. 233 ms. from R.| It contains numerous dwelling houses, 
and 275 S. W. by W of W. and several mechanics. Its popula- 

LEWISBURG, P. V. and .Se«/o/|tion is 280. The land on the creek 
Justice, 221 ms. W. of R. and 263 S lis of good quality, producing well, In- 



dian corn, wheat, rye, oats and pota- 
toes, and table vegetables in aburi; 
dance. There are 3 grist mills m 



W. by W. of W.; in lat. 37° 48' N. 

and long. 3° 26' W. of W. C. This 

village is situated near the southern 

border of the county, immediately onjthe vicinity. A large stream of suT- 

the James river and Kanawha turn- phur water is found 5 ms. distant from 

pike, equi-distant 100 ms. fromithis P. O. near the mouth of the 

Charleston, Kanawha, and Staunton, Icreek'. 

Augusta, 9 ms. west of the White' Maysville, P. 0. 224 ms. from: 

Sulphur, and 12 east of the Blue Sul- R. and 266 s. W- by w. of w. ' ' 



phur Springs. Besides the ordinary 
county buildings, it contains 101 
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public 
worship, (1 Baptist, I Presbyterian, 
and 1 Methodist) 1 academy,' 1 com- 
mon school, and 3 Sunday scb6ols,'6 
mercantile stores, 1 printing office, is- 
suinga •weekly paper, 2'tanyards, 3 
saddlers, 4 blacksmith "shops, 2 cop- 
per smiths and tin plate workers, 3 
bl-ick layers, 4 hou 
tailor shops, 2- cabinet makers, 2 
watch and clock makers, 2 wagon ma- 
kers', and' 3 hotels. The situation of 
tins village, is in a healthy, mouh- 



Meadoav Dale, P. O. 246 ms. 
from R. and 288 from W. 

Sewell Mountain, P. O. 252 
ms. from R. and 294 S. W- by "W- of 
W-r situated in the western part of the 
county. 

Spring Creek, P. O. 212 ,ms. 
from R. and 254 S. W. by W. of W- 

White Sulphur Springs, P. O. 
212 ms. W. of R. and 254 s. W.of 
e carpenters, 4 W-, situated in the eastern part of the 
county, 9 ms. S. E. by E. of Lewis- 
burg. We regret that the proprietors 
have not thought proper, to reply tb 
the repeated applications, made to 



tamous region. It has been rapidly them for a description of this cele- 



irtiprdving for the last 
Population about 750 



or 4 years: 
persons; of 



brated, and delightful watering place. 
The great beauty of the place, the ex- 



WESlTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE 



?.5t 



tensive buildings erected and yet erect 
ing, and always insufficient, — the vast 
concourse of visiters, the medicinal 
powers of the waters, <fec. are subjects 
of which a detailed account might 
have been written, which would have 
been interesting not only to this state, 
but to the whole country, which is 
beginning to appreciate ihe excellence 
«f these Avaters. Already there is a 
Vast concourse of strangers, from the 
north and the south, the east and the 



believe the stock has never b^en taken. 
The property is now chiefly owned 
by Mr. Caldwell. The capital atl- 
thorized by the charter is $500,000, 
(of which not less than three-fifths are 
to be held by other than the present 
proprietors) or 5000 shares at $100 
each. 

"We knew the White Sulphui:, 
when the accommodations were con- 
fined, and much unequal to the de.- 
mand. Those accommodations have 



west, coming from the din and bustle of. rapidly expanded, year after year, but 
the city, or the baneful miasmata of jthey are still as inadequate as 12 years 
the marshes, to find health and plea- ago. The multitudes who flock thith- 
sure at the Virginia Springs, amongjer for recreation or health, increase 
which this shines forth ; ■ {with the resources of the country and 

"Utlund inter minores sideres." its population, and will rontinue.to JR- 
It has never been our misfortune crease beyond what would now ap- 
to be compelled to seek it for health, Ipear a rational calculation. As a 
but as an agreeable summer retreat, i Property it is impossible to estimate 
no place can surpass it. We pre-!hs worth. Some 1 years ago it was 
sume the buildings in theapproachinglestimated at from 75 to i$l 50,000.. U 
summer of 1835, will be sufficient to has ascended in speculation to 500,- 
accommodate 400 persons. Several'OOO. 750,000, and $1,000,000, A few 
large and handsome hotels have;yeare hence, when further improved; 
sprung up in the neighborhood, forjthis will unquestionably be thought 
the distance of 6 or 7 ms. with ihejfer below the true value; for althougk 
view of merely accomodating thejit is possible that as good sulphur .we} 
company, over-flowing from the lim- ter may be found, better can never, be, 
ited accommodation at the Springs, land the established fame of the White 
The General Assembly in the session'Sulphur must at all time.=;, keep dowfi 
of 1833-4, granted a charter of in- destructive competUion." 
corporation to the proprietors, but we; 



HAMPSHIRE. 

Hampshire was established by the Legislature in 1754, from a portion 
of Augusta and Frederick. It is bounded by Morgan N. E., Frederick E., 
Hardy S. and Potomac and Alleghany county of Maryland, N. E. and Ds. 
its mean length is about 33 ms. ; mean breadth 30; and area 989 sq. ms.' 
It extends in lat. from P 28', to 2^ 12' W- of W. C. A large proi^ortion of 
the soil is poor, and m.uch that is cultivated, is on steep acclivities. It never- 
theless produces an abundance of wheat of the first quality, for a few crops 
after it is first cleared, and would continue to produce well, were it judi- 
ciously cultivated, as gypsum acts powerfully upon it. The high moun- 
tains are untillable, but would afford an excellent range tor sheep, both- as 
to the quality of mutton and wool which would be produced, could the at- 
tention of the inhabitants be turned that way. The people inhabiting the 



8^ WESTERN VIRQINIA— HA.NlPSHiRE 

hills and mountains^ though poor, are honest and hardy, and . independent^ 
living comfortably upon the produce of their own lands. -■ 

The principal streams are South branch of Potomac, the North branch of 
Potomac, the main river Potomac, and the great Cacapon. On ail of- these 
there are extensive and fertile low grounds. The South branch has long 
been celebrated for its rich, and inexhaustible bottom lands. In the county 
of Hardy, through which the South branch flows, before it enters Hampshire, 
the low grounds on this river as regards the fertility, may be styled the 
garden spot of Virginia, and are not surpassed iu natural productiveness by 
any perhaps in the world. They have been known to be cultivated in In- 
dian corn, in some instances, for 20, 30 or 40 years in succession, -with very 
little dimunition of their product. In Hampshire the low grounds become 
narrow, with some small change in the qualit}^ of the soil, but are estimated 
at very high prices by the owners. They have sold at the extravagant 
price of 100 and 8150 per acre, and in Hardy, as high as 8300, but those 
days have past. Tlie bottoms on the North branch are also rich, but infe- 
rior to those on the South. 

On the great Cacapon which floAvs in a course of 40 ms. and up-wards 
through the county, the low grounds are inferior to those on the Nori-lr 
branch. Patterson's creek also iiov,-s through the whole breadth of the* 
county, having fine bottom lands on its margin throughout its course. The 
face of the country here, and in the county of Hardy, give evidence of 
convulsions and disruptions, which we might suppose took place in a war 
between rivers and mountains at some remote period, from which it might 
be infered, that the rich valley on tlxe South branch, had at one time been 
a lake; that the waters had risen until they had broken over the mountain!*- 
in different places, and tern for themselves a passage through, quite down- 
to their bases ; leaving trerriendous precipices of recks of astonishing height; 
which overhang; the traveller on the road, passing through those breaches. 
on the narrow margin, now formed between the river and the rocks. One 
of these is to be seen al^ut .4 pas- belo.w the town of Romney, constituting 
an object of great grandeur and sublimity to the beholder ; and what height- 
ens his wonder and curiosity, still more, it appears as if the capricious river 
not content with the .victory it had gained, or the course it had taken: about 
3 or 4 ms. below, it breaks through the same mountain again, to the same 
side on which it had previously flowed, leaving a similar precipice on its 
opposite side. 

But one of the most pazsjelling curiosities in this county, is what is caHed 
the Ice mounta.in. It appefirs ^o. be an entire pile of stone from its base to 
its summit, about the size of building stone, destitute of soil or clay, trees 
or shrubs, with few exceptions. It is fully exposed to the whole power of 
the sun's raj's for the greatest part of the day, yet throughout the whole oi 
the hottest summer, on any part of this mountain thus exposed to the sun,- - 
liomps of ice may be found on turning up the stones to the depth of about a 
foot, which shews that the mineralogical or chemical composition of the- 
mountain, is such as to preserve ice in hot weather, if not to produce it: but-J 
what that composition is, has not yet been ascertained, though it is notorious' 
that the ice may be found as stated. This natural ice house is situated near 
the North River JMills, and near the old road leading from Romney to ; 
Winchester, about 17 ms. from the former, — in the north western section v 
of the county, on the margin of the North branch of the Potomac. The- 
boundary at that place between Virginia and Maryle\nd, are immense fields- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 



357 



of bituminous coal, which have lately attracted the attention of capitalists 
from the cities, who are at this time rapidly purchasing them up, with a 
view to the great profits which it is contemplated they will yield, when the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal shall reach them. The calculation is no doubt 
a rational one, when the small expense which it will require to place this 
coal in the boat, and the facility of carrying it to market on the canal (if it 
should be made) is considered. Near to these coal fields there are indica- 
cations of iron ore in large quantities, affording the most ample means of 
competing with England in the cheapness of bar iron for Rail Roads, &;c.: 
for it is well known that where iron is made by stone coal instead of wood 
coal, and by rolling it out in mills instead of hammering, it can be sold for 
one half the price which it must cost to make it by charcoal and forge ham- 
mers, as is practised now in the United Sates Avith few exceptions. There 
are large deposits of iron ore over the whole country. It is thought to be 
more abundant in this, than in any other county in the state. Along the 
great Cacapon, from its source to its mouth, the appearance of large mines 
of it, is to be seen in almost every ridge. Very little of it has yet been 
worked, but the greatest part of what has been tried, is found to be of the 
be5t qualitJ^ In fact for the manufacture of iron, the great Cacapon may- 
become to Virginia, what Juniata has to Pennsylvania, a great source of 
weahh. The men of wealth on the South branch, and in other parts of the 
county, have hhherto been so entirely engrossed in fattening beef for mar- 
ket, that they have thought very little of improving any other resource of 
the country, not even in erecting mills, for manufacturing flour: but it is to 
be hoped, that the north Avestern turnpike, now making, which passes 
through the Avhole length of the country from east to Avcst, will bring its 
other resources into action Avhich AA-ere locked up before by the mountains. 
The lowest elevation of this county is along the branches of the Potomac, 
and this exceeds 500 ft. Population in 1820, 10,889—1830, 11,279. It 
belongs to the 13th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
^2,399 27— in 1834, on lots, $19 01 — on Kind, $1,631 86—703 slaves, 
8175 75— 4,925 horses, §295 50— 22 studs, 8169 00—6 coaches, $13 00 
2^ carryalls, $22 00—7 gigs. $5 80. Total, S2,4"l 1 92. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $912 14— in 1834,^949 00. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BuuLiXGTOX, P. O. 205 ms. from 
R. and 126 N. N. W. of Washing- 
ton City, situated on a small AA-ater 
course, called Patterson's creek. It 
contains a mercantile store, a house 
of entertainment, seA'eral houses oc- 
cupied by mechanics, and a house of 
public AA'orship, free for all denomina- 
tions. The mail passes and repasses 
this post office once a week. A neAV 
route has been lately established from 
this place, to Smith's Farm in Alle- 
ghany county, Maryland; on Avhich 
the mail passes to and fro once a 
week. The north western turnpike 



from Winchester to the Ohio, passes 
immediately through this place, hav- 
ing passed through Romney, the 
:ounty seat, 1 1 ms. E. 

Cold Stream Mill and P. O. 
172 ms. from R. and 93 N. W. by 
W. of W. This village is situated 
20 ms. N. W. of Winchester, 21 S. 
E. of Romney, and 2 N. of the Par- 
kersburg and Winchester road. It 
contains, 12 dAA-elling houses, 1 Epis- 
:opalian, and 1 Presbyterian house of 
worship, 1 classical school, 1 mer- 
cantile store, 1 Avoollen manufactory, 
' extensive manufacturing flcur mill, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSm^E. 



2 saw mills, 2 gunsmiths, doing- a 
considerable business annually, 1 
cabinet maker, and various other me- 
chanics. Population 68 whites, 2 of 
whom are physicians, and 12 color- 
ed, — total 80. Much timber is car- 
ried in boats and rafts from this place, 
down the Big Cacapon to the Poto- 
mac, and thence to various mariiets. 
The Cold Stream is one of the best 
water courses in the state; on it are 
several mill seats and manufactories; 
it flows abundantly in the dryest sea- 
son, and never freezes in winter. It 
empties into the Cacapon river, about 
50 yards above the woollen factory 
before mentioned. The bottom and 
level lands in this neighborhood are 
fertile, producing corn, wheat oats, 
rye, &c., and are improved by clover 
and plaster. The country around is 
somewhat mountainous, generally 
high and rocky. Six miles N. of 
tliis place is the famous Ice mountain 
spoken of in the general description 
of Virginia in the first part of the 
work. The mountain is situated 
near North river, and on the north 
west side of the mountain. By re- 
moving the stones for a about a foot 
below the surface, ice may be had in 
any quantity in the -dryest and hot- 
test season of the year. 

Dillon's Run, P. O. 179 ms. N. 
W. of R. and 100 N. W. of W., sit- 
uated IG miles E. of Romney, the 
county seat 

Frankfort, P. O. 203 ms, from 
R. and 124 ms. N. AV. by W. of W., 
situated near the right bank of Pat- 
terson's creek, in the northern part 
of the county. It contains 25 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 Episcopalian house of 
worship, 3 miscellaneous stores, 2 
taverns, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith 
shops, I cooper, 1 wagon maker, 1 
hatter, 1 chair maker, and 3 boot and 
shoe factories. Population 14(3 
whites, including 1 physician, and 13 
colored, — total 159. 

GLENfoi;, P, 0. 170 ms. from R 



and 91 N. of W. Glencoe though 
called a village, is simply a post office, 
at which is kept a mercantile store 
of considerable notoriety. It is situ- 
ated on the road leading from Win- 
chester to Romney, 19 ms. from the 
former, and 25 from the latter! In 
the vicinity on the great Cacapon are 
situated 2 extensive manufacturing 
flour mills, an iion forge, in great 
repute, 2 tan yards, several wagon 
makers, and blacksmith shops; and 
various other mechanics in the neigh- 
borhood. Within 10 ms. of this 
place are situated the celebrated Ca- 
pon Springs, which are famed for 
the medical qualities of their waters. 
The accommodations are comfortable 
and convenient, and there are gener- 
ally in the summer months from 50 
to 70 boarders, who resort to these 
springs for health and pleasure. The 
country around is extremely rough 
and mountainous. The great Caca- 
pon at its head, takes the name of. 
Lost rli'er, from the fact that it ,dis"; 
appears, and after taking a subterra'i 
ncous passage for some considerabFe 
distance, is seen again. When this 
stream is high great quantities of 
lumber are conveyed to Harper's 
Ferry, Georgetown, Washington 
City, and Alexandria. Some years 
since the Cacapon and North river 
company was created with a view of 
making these streams navigable. 
Five miles distant from this place, 
there is an extensive vineyard, be- 
longing to Gen'l Lockhart, in a flou- 
rishing condition, the wine of which 
is said for flavor and richness, nearly 
to equal any imported. He manu- 
factured in each of the successive 
years of 1832-3, from 5 acres, 30 
barrels. The diflerent religious de- 
nominations in this section are Pres- 
byterians, Baptists and Methodists. 

Hanging Rock, P. O. 182 ms. 
from R. and 103 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated 28 ms. W. of Winchester, 
and 15 E. of Romney, the counij 
."-eat. Hnnginf!' Rork post oflic'e de^ 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 



359 



rives its name from a large rock that 
projects or hangs over the road, pass- 
ing through a gap of the North river 
mountain, where the northwestern 
turnpike road, lately located from 
Winchester to the Ohio river, now 
passes. This Rock is situated about 
a fourth ot a mile on the E. side of 
the North river, a stream navigable 
fo]^ rafts, boats, &c. It empties into 
great Cacapon, 14 ms. N. E. of this 
place. The post office was first es- 
tablished near the rock, but has been 
twice moved, — its present location is 
2} miles west of the rock. In the 
vicinity there are 2 houses of public 
worship, (1 Methodist called Hang- 
ing Rock Meeting House, the other 
free for all denominations, called 
Zion''s Church,) 1 manufacturing 
flour mill, and 1 grist mill. Two 
miles below the rock, on a small 
stream emptying into North river, 4 
miles above this place, arc 2 grist and 
1 oil mill, and carding machine. The 
lands on North river are generally 
fertile and productive, and those lying 
between North river and South 
Branch of Potomac, are mostly brok- 
en and hilly, but where well cultiva- 
ted are tolerably productive. The 
turnpike crosses 3 considerable moun- 
tains, viz. North river, Sandy ridge, 
and Dillon's moimlains. 

Little Cacapon, river and P. O. 
188 ms. from R. and 109 from W. 
The P. O. is situated 1 mile W. of 
Little Cacapon river, 14 N. E. of 
Romney, and 7 E. of Springfield, at 
the Sulphur Springs, on the Spring- 
field road. The water of this spring 
is strongly impregnated with mine- 
rals, is pleasant to the taste, and is 
somewhat noted for its salubrious 
efficacy. At this spring there is a 
natural mound, composed of rock 
and earth, about 20 feet in height and 
60 in circumference at its base; with 



traveller, being unsonnected with any 
other high ground, and loaded with 
growth of large timber. There 
has been lately erected here a house 
of entertainment. Little Cacapon 
has its source in the Grassy Lick, on 
Stoney mountains, in the southwest 
part of the county, runs northeast 50 
miles, and after receiving numerous 
tributaries, empties into the Potomac 
river. — This stream was declared a 
public highway by an act of the Vir- 
ginia Legislature in 1832, and is 
navigable for bonts, rafts, «fec. 20 ras. 
from its mouth. The soil on this 
creek is of good quality, producing 
well wheat, corn, rye, oats, &c. 
There are 1 manufacturing flour mill, 
saw and 5 grist mills, located oti 
this stream : and in its vicinity are 3 
houses of public worship, (2 Baptist 
and 1 Presbyterian.) The uplands 
in the neighborhood are slate soil, 
and when first cleared produce good- 
wheat, corn, <fec. The mountains 
and hills abound in pine of the best 
quality. The principal mountains 
are Spring Gap and Little Capon, 
mountains on the east, — and Town 
Hill onountain on the west, running 
parallel with the stream. 

North River Mills, P. O. 178 
ms. from R. and 99 from W. 

North River Meeting House, 
P. O. 194 ms. from R. and 115 N. 
W. by W. of W. 

Paddytown, p. v. 214 ms. from 
R. and 135 N. W. by W. .of W. 
This small but romantic village-con- 
tains 6 dwelling houses, 1 mercantile, 
store, 1 manufacturing flour mill: and- 
there are in the immediate vicinity, I, 
forge and furnace. It is situated up-. 
on the banks of the North Branch of 
Potomac river, between Knebley,, 
New Creek and Alleghany vieun- 
tains, commanding a beautiful pros- 
pect of the latter, which lies within 



the main post road pas.sing on one jone and a half mile distant : — Queeds 
side, and a small stream of water onlPointand Slim Bottovi Hi.ll. Queen's 
the other. This mound invariably i Point is remarkable for the magnifi- 
attracts the attention of the passing |cent aspect, which is here presented. 



W6 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 



to the spectator. This Point over- 
looks the river, and is upwards of 
600 feet high, the extremity or top of 
which is decorated with a large pro- 
jecting rock upwards of 100 feet in 
height. Through this rock which 
is about 200 feet in width there is a 
kind of avenue or alley, thro' which 
visitors generally pass. This point 
is a place of considerable resort, dur- 
ing the summer season, and derives 
its name from the circumstance of a 
traveller by the name of Queen, hav- 
ing attempted to pass by the foot path, 
which leads around the base of the 
rock, upon horseback, but the feet of 
the animal slipping he was precipi 
tated with his rider over the preci 
pice, and both were killed. 

Slim Bottom Hill is also a place 
of some resort, and from its novelty 
deserves to be partially noticed. Th 
most conspicuous part of this place 
is a large prominent projecting rock 
which overhangs the river, the height 
of which is about 90 feet. This 



cavity is rather small to make it prac- 
ticable for persons to pass through.) 
It thereby gives the cold northern 
winds free access, which naturally 
freezes the water in VA'inter, and the 
cavity serves as an icehouse, during 
the summer. There is also a similar 
cave on the land of Janney's heirs, 
whence their issues a perpetual 
breeze which is extremely cold. 
This spot has a small house built 
over it and is occupied as a milk 
house. There is in this vicinity on 
the lands of J. Singleton, a Salt 
spring, from which there has been 
several barrels of good £>alt manufac- 
tured. 

ROMNEY, P. V. and seat of jus- 
tice, on the right bank of the South 
Branch of Potomac, 195 ms. from R. 
116 N. N. W. of W., 39 ms. in a 
similar direction from Winchester, 
and 28 S. of Cumberland in Mary- 
land, situated in lat. 49° 20' N. and 
long. 1° 42' W. of W. C. Popu- 
lation in 1830, 346, of whom 100 



rock appears to have been at one timehvere colored persons, 
connected with the opposite rock on 
the Maryland side. This general 
opinion is derived from their similar- 
ity, and the fact of their being so near 
in contact, the river only separating 
them. There are several other natu- 
ral curiosities immediately in the vi- 
cinity of this village worthy of no- 
tice ; amongst others is a cavern or 
cave, upon the side of MartivJs Hill, 
(another noted point not much short of 
one thousand feet high,) from whence 
there flows a very small stream. 
This stream in this cave during the 
summer season produces considerable 
quantities of excellent ice. This re- 
markable phenomenon can only be 
solved in the following manner. Its 
local situation being due north, and 
the lower mouth being at the base of 
the hill, and ascending gradually a 
distance of perhaps 30 or 40 feet be- 
low the surface of the earth, nearly 
to the top of the hill, where it again 
makes its appearance (though the 



County Courts are held on the ith 
Mo7iday in every month : — Quartet' 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Parker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 28</i of April and \2th 
September. 

Shkrrard's Store, P. O. 174 
ms. from R. and 93 from W. 

Sheetz's Mill, P.O. 205 ms. from 
R. and 126 N. W. by W. of W. 

Springfield, P. V. 197 ms. from 
R. and 118 N. W by W. of W. 
This village is situated at the inter- 
section of the post roads, leading 
from Winchester to the national turn- 
pike, (42 ms. from, the former and 17 
from the latter) and the road leadmg 
from Roraney. to Old Town, Md., be- 
tween the South and North Branches 
of the Potomac river, 1 mile from 
the former and 7 from the latter. It 
contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 houses 
of public worship. (I PreGbyterian 



^.WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARDY. 361 

and. I, Methodist,) 1 seminary, , in jbly.one-of the healthiest villages in 
which are taught all the necessary [the Union, surrounded by beautiful 
branches of an English education, 2 mountain "scenery, and in the neigh- 
mercantile stores, 3 taverns, I tan borhood of forests, well slocked with 
yard, 1 saddler, 3 boot and shoe fac- wild game, such as deer, turkeys, 
lories, 2 smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 pheasants, squirrels, &.c. Population 
^hair rnaker, 1 house joiner, and 1 162 persons; of whom 1 is a physt- 
wagon maker. Springfield is proba- cian. 



HARDY. 

Hardy was created by the Legislature in 1786, and formed from a por- 
tion of Hampshire county. It is bounded by Hampshire N. and N. E., She- 
nandoah E., Rockingham S. E., Pendleton S., Randolph S. W. and W. and 
Alleghany county, of Maryland, N. W. ; its mean length is 42 ms ; breadth 
17 and area 714 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 38° 43', to 39° 18' N. and 
in long, from 1° 43', to 2° 30' W. of W. C. The surface of Hardy inclines 
to the N. E. and is traversed in that direction by the South branch, and sev- 
ral other tributaries of the Potomac ; with lateral chains of mountains in- 
tervening, which also extend in a similar direction with the rivers. The 
surface is much broken, and for the most part very rocky and sterile ; but 
tracts of excellent land, lie on the streams, and in the mountain vallies. The 
mean elevation of the arable land, is perhaps lOOO ft. above the ocean. 
There are some valuable banks of iron ore in this county, among these the 
one near the Cacapon furnace, about 30 ms. from "Winchester, deserves to 
be mentioned. Population in 1820, 5,700— in 1830, 6,778. This county 
belongs to the 14th judicial circuit, and 7th . district. Tax paid in 1833, 
82,549 64— in 1834, on lots, $34 21— oa knd, 81,999 81—607 slaves, 
S151 75— 3,837 horses, 8230 22— 20 studs, 8173 00— 3 coaches, $17 50 
3 carryalls, S3 00. :TQtal, $2,609 49. Expended in educating poor chiU 
dren.ih 1832, $332 23— in 1833, $665 87, 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &,c. 

Federal Hill, P. O 178 ms. W. house of public worship, free for all 
of R. and 125 W. of W C, situated; denominations, 1 English school, 2 
in the eastern part of the. county. [Bible, 1 tract and 1 temperance socie- 

H.A.ZARD Forge, P. O. 212 ms 'ty, I public library well supported, 5 
from. R. and 145 W. of W. C 'mercantile stores, 1 lanyard, 2 sad- 

. MOOR FIELDS, P. V. and Sea.i;o/"|dlers, 1 hatter, 3 smith shops, 2 cabi- 
Justice, 195 ms. from R. and 128 W. net maker*, 2 house carpenters, 2 boot 
of "W. C in lat. 39° 02' N. and long, land shoe factories, 3 tailo;-:. 1 wagon 
2" 02' "W.-of "W. C. This village is 'maker, and 2 milliners. I'n the vi- 
situated on the right bank of the South 'cinity are 3 manufacturing flour mills 
branch of the Potomac, at the junc-jand 2 country mills. < carding and 
lion of the South Ibrk, in one of theJl fulling and dying machine. Popu- 
richest vallies in western Virginia, 50 [lation 350 persons ; of whom 3 are al- 
ms, a little S. "W. of Winchester. Ittorneys, and 4 regular physicians, 
contains besides the usual county CWwiy Cowrts are held on the 3rf 
bnildings, 50 dwelling house.", 1 TKesooy in every month; — Quarterly 
■16 i ' ■ 



362 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARRISON. 



in March, June, August and Novem-^^ 
ber. 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit] 
Superior Courts of Law and Chan- 
cery on the '2.1 st of April and Sep- 
tember. 

Lost River, P. O. 130 ms. W. of 
W. C. situated in the eastern part of 
the county. 

^ Luney's Creek, P. O. 201 ms. 
from R. and 141 W. of W., situated 
10 ms. W. of Moor Field. 

Trout Run, or Wardensville, 
Election Precinct and P. V. 180 ms. 
from R. and 101 W. of W. This 
village is situated on Trout Run, 
which here unites with Lost River, 
and forms the great Cacapon. The 
great Cacapon is navigable at some 
seasons of the year, — its principal 
stream Lost River, rises v<ithin 2 ms. 
of Wardensville, after having passed 



several ms. under ground. This vil- 
lage was laid off in 1827, and now 
contains 17 dwelling houses, 1 house 
of public worship, free for all denom- 
inations, 1 common school, 2 taverns, 
1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe 
maker, 2 tailors, 1 wagon maker, 1 
chair maker, 1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 
I milliner and mantua maker, 1 stone 
mason, and 1 smith shop. Popula- 
tion 75 persons ; of whom 1 is a phy- 
sician. In the vicinity of this place, 
are 2 manufacturing flour mills, .and 
4 iron works, 2 forges for manufac- 
jture of bar iron, and 2 furnaces for 
making pig iron and castings. War- 
|dcnsville is situated 28 ms. Irom Win- 
'chester, 18 from Woodstock, and equi 
distant 26 from the county seats of 
Hardy and Hampshire. It is destin- 
jed from its central situation, to become 
la place of some importance. 



HABHISOM, 

Marrison was created in 1784, and formed from a portion of Mononga- 
lia. It is bounded N. and N. E. by Monongalia, E. by Randolph, S. by 
Lewis, and W. by Wood and Tyler. Its mean length is 50 ms. ; mean 
breath 22 and area 1 100 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 39° 03', to 39° 35' 
N. and in long, from 2° 53' to 3° 55' W. of W. C. The Western branch 
of the Monongahela river, enters the southern border of Harrison, and wind- 
ing N. N. E. receives from both sides, numerous creeks, which drain the 
central and most considerable part of this county. The western part how- 
ever declines westward, and is drained by the sources of Middle Island 
creek. The surface of the whole county is much broken, but generally fer- 
tile. Population in 1820, 10,932—1830, 14,792. It belongs to the'lSth 
judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,616 64 — in 1834, 
on lots, $133 21— on land, 1,056 27—339 slaves, $84 75—5,284 horses, 
$317 04—28 studs, $106 00—11 carryalls, $11 00. Total, $1,708 27. 
Expended in educatirig-poor children in 1832, $976 13 — in 1833, $970 98. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, A:c. 



Bridgeport, P. O. 266 ms. from 
R. and 220 from W,, situated 10 ms. 
E. of Clarksburg, on Simpson^ s creek, 
a branch of the west fork of the Mo- 
nongahela river. The location of the 
north western turnpike road runs 
through the town of Bridgeport. It 



contains 20 dwelling houses, I house 
of public worship free for all denomi- 
nations, 1 common school, 2 houses of 
entertainment, 1 grist and saw mill, 
and various mechanics. The situa- 
tion of this town is high and healthy, 
in a flourishing and densely settled 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARR [SON. 



368 



part of the county, 1 1 ms. west of 
Pruntytown. It contains 14 families 
and is improving'. 

CLARKSBURG, P. V. and Seat 
of Justice, 260 ms. N. W. by W. of 
il. and 226 from W. This heahhy 
and thriving village is situated above, 
and S. S. W. of Morgantown, on the 
right bank of the Monongahela river, 
near the centre of north western Vir- 
ginia, at the junction of Elk creek, 
with the west fork of the Monongahela, 
about 100 ms. by the post road south 
of Pittsburg, 250 W. of Baltimore, 
and 70 E. of the Ohio river. It is a 
corporate town and well built; con- 
taining besides the usual county build- 
ings, 100 dwelling houses, 1 Metho- 
dist house of worship, 2 common 
.schools, a temperance, bible and Sun- 
day school society, 9 mercantile 
stores, a grist and an oil mill, 1 print- 
ing office which issues a weekly pa-j 
per, I tanyard, 3 saddlers, and all oth-| 
er mechanics usual or necssary for an; 
inland town. There is a chalybeate! 
spring, whence issues a never failing- 
stream of highly medicinal water. 
This village stands on a rolling table 
land, surrounded hy an amphirheatre 
of hills, ranging in distance from a 
mile, to a few hundred yards. Ell 
Run meadering through and around 
the town, adds additional beauty to 
the scene. Clarksburg is furnished 
with inexhaustible supplies of coal in 
its immediate neighborhood ; and 
being situated in the midst of a large 
and flourishing county, possessed of 
valuable arable lands and great mine- 
ral wealth in its iron, salt, &c. and 
being near the centre of N. W. Vir- 
ginia, — it may hope in time to become 
a place of considerable importance. 
Its present population is TOO persons; 
of whom 20 are attorneys, and 4 reg- 
ular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the ^d 
Monday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, Atigust and 
November. 

JrDGE DuNc.w holds his Circuit 



Superior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the 3^ of May, and October. 

HoFFSviLLE, P. O. 253 ms. from 
R. and 236 W. of W. 

Lewisport, p. v. 290 ms. from R. 
and 256 from W., situated 35 ms. W. 
of Clarksburg, and 25 both from 
Weston and Middlebourn, county seats 
of Lewis and Tyler, on the main stage 
road, at the point, at v.'hich it crosses 
Middle Island creek. This creek is 
a beautiful stream, which empties into 
the Ohio ; it is 75 yards v/ide, and 
navigable from its mouth to this place. 
Lewisport contains 8 dwelling houses, 
I Baptist house of worship, 1 common 
school, 1 n;»ercantile store, 2 taverns, 
I manufacturing flour mill, and seve- 
ral mechanical establishment. Pop- 
ulation 50 persons; of whom 1 is a 
physician. This village is surround- 
ed by endle.ss quantities of valuable 
timber, — the neighborhood abounds 
v.'ith stone coal and limestone: and 
mnnv excellent sites for manufacto- 
ries. W^heat, rye, oats and timothy, 
are the principal products. The face 
of the country. is uneven, but the soil 
rich. 

Mii.E*->UJ), 265 ms. from R. and 233 
from W, This village is pleasantly 
situated on the north bank of the west 
fork of rhe Monongahela river, 8 ms 
S. S. W. of Clarksburg. It contains 
15 dwelling houses, 1 house of public 
worship, (Methodist) I house of pub- 
lic entertainment, 1 miscellaneous 
store, 1 tanyard, 1 boot and shoe ma- 
ker, 1 gun smith, 1 house carpenter, 
1 cooper, 1 grist and 1 sawmill. The 
land in the immediate vicinity of this 
village is level, but that of the suf' 
rounding country is somewhat iT^oun- 
tainous; but not so precipitous as to 
preclude its cultivation, to the very 
summit. The soil is generally good, 
the bottoms being a heavy soil, suited 
for lueadow lands. The hills are 
generally a loose black soil, and very 
fertile. The products are wheat, In- 
dian corn, rye. oats, flax, hemp and 
various kinds of pulse and vpget.?.bles. 



364 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARRISON. 



The lands are peculiarly adapted lolthe Ohio river. The West Fork river 
raising cattle, which is one of the at this place, is 350 ft. wide, passes in 
principal staples of this county. Pop- a gentle current, and is navigable at 
ulation 6i, — the odd one beinga slave, high water. It empties into the Ty- 
The neighborhood is thickly settled,! gart's Valley river, 14 ms. below this 
and bids fair to be a thriving coun- village — the two forming the Monon- 
try, should a market ever open to this'gahela of Virginia and Pennsylvania, 
place. The post office has lately been Steam-boats might come to this place, 
moved from Milford to Lost creek, on ifthere were no obstructing mill dams, 
the opposite side of the river. The surrounding country is hilly and 

New Salem, P. O. 240 ms. w. of extremely broken, but exceedingly 



W. C. and 274 from R. 

PruxNtv Town, P. V. 276 ms. 
from R. and 209 N. W. by W. of W- 
situated near the ferry ncvossTy garths 
Valley river, 18 ms. N. E. by E. of 
Clarksburg. It contains 18 dwelling 
houses, 1 Methodist and I Baptist 
house of worship, 1 common school, 
3 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, 1 
tanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, I hatter, 1 tailor, 2 smith 
shops, 1 gun smith, and 1 cabinet ma- 
ker. Population 110. The surround- 
ing country is somewhat broken, but 
the soil is good, and vveil adapted to 



well timbered with oak, shell bark, 
hickory, poplars (120 ft. high,) black 
locust, honey locust, sugar maple, 
black walnut, butter nut, beach, cot- 
ton wood, cypress, sycamore, birch, 
lynn; and affords an abundance of 
gensang, snake root, &c. The coun- 
try around is thickly settled, and the 
pursuits of the inhabitants are agri- 
culture, grazmg, and raising cattle, 
and furnishing of lumber for the va- 
rious markets. The neighborhood of 
Shinnton in geological language 
would be called a secondary formation, 
based on calcarious and clay shist 



'he grazing of cattle; and growingj rocks, abounding in iron ore, and bi- 
every species of small grain. ituminous coal: the latter unusually 

Shinnston, P. V. 270 ms.. from R.I abundant, — several strata being dis- 
and 236 w. of w. C. This village! posed one above the other, in the same 
was laid ofT in the year 1817 by the' hill. The strata are usually 10 feet 
Rev. Asa Shinn and brothers, and in-jdeep, of excellent coal. The substra- 
corporated by act of Assemby the same; tum of earth is also, generally about 
year. It is situated on the right bank! 10 ft. deep, composed of a yellow al- 
of the West Fork river, on a beautiful > luminous clay, very suitable for potte- 
plain, containing about 30 acres oflryand brick The super stratum is 



land, 15 ft. above high water mark 
8 ms. N. E. of Clarksburg, and 30 
S. W. of Morgantown. 



a rich vegetable mould, about one 
foot deep, Avhich if well cuUivated, 
produces excellent hemp, flax, maize, 



The improvements are 18 dwelling wheat, sweet and Irish potatoes. Or- 
houses, 1 house of public worship,! chards are nurtured with care, and 
free for all denominations, 1 common | apples celebrated for size and flavor; 
school, 2 miscellaneous stores, 1 wag-j peaches, plums, pears, pawpaws and 
gon maker, 1 smith shop, 1 gun! persimmons, and blackberries, grow 
smith, 1 watch maker and silver in such abundance that many ships 
smith, 3 cabinet makers, 1 saddler, s! might be loaded with them. The for- 
boot and shoe factories, 1 cooper, llests abound with nuts and fruits 
tailor, 1 grist and 5 saw mills, seve-i which rear and fatten large quantities 
ral house carpenters, and 10 lumber] of hogs, and reduce the price of pork 
merchants, by whom large quantities; to 2 cents per pound, — other products 
of lumber are shipped annually from are equally cheap. The climate is 
ihis place to the different markets on mild, and the country generally well 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JACKSON. 365 



refreshed with rain during the sum- 
mer months. In point of health this 
place has few superiors. Unimproved 
land is worth one dollar per acre, — 
improved from three to five dollars, 



and quarter acre lots in Skiunston 
sell at fifteen dollars. The village 
contains 17 families — aggregate pop- 
ulation 100 persons; of whom 1 is a 
ph3'sician. 



JACKSON. 

Jackson was created by the Legislature in March, 1 831, and formed 
from portions of Mason, Kanawha and Wood. It is bounded N. E. by 
Wood, E. by Lewis, S. by Kanawha, S. W. by Mason, and N. W. by the 
Ohio river. Its form is irregular. It lies between 38° 32' and 39° 12' N. 
lat. Its length is 33 ms. ; mean breath 24; and area 850 sq. ms. The Ohio 
washes its north western border for a space of 34 ms. Several large and 
valuable creeks intersect it. Great Mill creek rises in the southern part of 
the county, and after pursuing a south easterly course 15 ms. turns to the 
N., thence to the N. W. and empties into the Ohio, 4 ms. above the corner 
of the county. Its length is 65 ms., half of which is navigable for boats. 
Two miles below Ripley on this stream, are situated 1 manufacturing flour 
mill, 1 saw mill, 1 wool carding and turning machine, a distillery and cab- 
inet maker's shop: a few miles below this, there is another mill. Sandy 
creek, 8 ms. N. of Great Mill creek, is the next stream in importance; it 
enters the Ohio in 39° 07' N. lat. This little creek is inhabited by an in- 
dustrious and enterprising class of people, who have in the last three years 
transported nearly $10,000 worth of lumber to market. Pond creek in the 
northern part of the county is a good sized mill stream, but too small for 
navigation; the greater part of this stream is in Mason countj-. It empties 
into the Ohio in lat. 39° 15' N. Reedy and Sfrhig creeks rise in this 
county, — the first pursuing a N. E., the latter a N. course. They pass into 
Wood county, and after a short course, empty into the Little Kanawha. 
The West Fork of Little Kanawha flows through this county, for a distance 
of 10 ms. and affords some excellent sites for water works. Pocotalico 
rises in this county, and flowing in a south westerly course, it enters Ka- 
nawha countJ^ and forms a junction with Little Kanawha river. This 
county is not mountainous, but may be sai4 to be a mass of hills, the high- 
est o( which, are in the eastern side of the county. The soil is, as in many 
parts of western Virginia, well adapted to grazing. The bottom lands 
along Mill creek and its branches, are of the first quality, — other creeks 
also present fine bottoms, and there is much arable land besides that on the 
water courses. The productions of the county, are Indian corn, wheat, rye, 
oats, flax, hemp, tobacco, potatoes and other productions usual in the same 
latitude. The principal exports from the interior part of the county, are 
cattle and pork; — along the Ohio the people export large quantities of 
staves, hoop-poles, boats and lumber of every description. The agriculture 
of the county may be said to be yet in its infancy, however, large quantities 
of corn, &c. are carried down the Ohio annually, to different-markets. Or- 
chards are not numerous, but where they have been planted early and nur- 
tured with care, produce in abundance. This county abounds with the 
finest of thrifty white oak, both on the bottoms and ridges, — also black oak, 
hickory, dogwood, sugar maple, poplar, ash, elin, Ivnn and sycamore, and 



366 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JACKSON. 



on many of the ric]gos groves of yellow pine. The lands along the Ohio 
river and other streams in this county, are alluvial, being composed of the 
Avashings of the higher lands and hills, in which it is no uncommon thing 
to find large logs, &c. buried a considerable depth below the surface; and 
the higher level lands along the Ohio river, are generally composed of sand 
and round gravel, similar to that found in the bed of the river, and com- 
monly lays in waves parallel to the river, Avhich proves that it was once'60 
or 70 feel higher than at the present time. There are in some of the north- 
ern ranges of hills in this county an abundance of excellent limestone; in 
some other parts there have been found small veins of mineral coal, and in 
the vicinity of the C. H. are appearances of salt water. There are in this 
county 3 mercantile stores, 8 saw mills, 5 grist mills, 1 distillery and 1 
carding machine, and 5 tanneries. Population 3,300. It belongs to the 
19th judicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $259 80 — in 
1834, on lots, $4 3G— on land, $134 79—31 slaves, $7 75—972 horses, 
$58 32—5 studs, $22 00. Total 227 22. No school commissioners re- 
port for 1832. Expended in 1833, $113 28. 

TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



RIPLEY, P. V. and Seat of Jiis-' 
tice, 350 ms. N. of R. and 341 "W. of: 
W., situated in lat. 38° 52' N., 8 ms.j 
above Wright's mill, and 12 from the 
Ohio river, on the Great Mill creek,! 
at itsconfluence with Sycamore creek. | 
It is a flourishing village, although! 
but recently established. From its| 
location in the valley of Mill creek,; 
and its being in a direct line between' 
Charleston, Kanawha, (distant 42] 
rns.) and Parkersburg, in Wood Co.,| 
it is anticipated that it will one day 
be a place of some trade. At present 
it contains besides the ordinary coun- 
ty buildings, which are substantially 
built of brick, 12 dwelling houses, 2 
hotels, 1 common school, 1 mercan- 
tile store, 1 mill wright, 1 house join- 
er, 2 smith shops, 1 tanyard, 1 boot 
and shoe factory, 2 tailois, 1 brick 
layer and 1 saw mill. Populution 
about 120 persons; of whom 2 are at- 
torneys, and 2 regular physicians. 
There are within one mile of the C. 
H. 32 dwelling houses, and 160 in- 
habitants. 

County Counts are held on the Mi 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 



and Chancery are held on the lOth 
of April and September, by Judge 
Summers. 

Reeds', P. O. 360 ms. N. W. of 
R. and 334 W^ of W. C, situated 10 
ms. N. of Ripley. 

Wright's Mills, P. O. 315 ms. 
N. W. by W. of R. and 315 S. W. 
by W. of W., situated at the falls of 
Great Mill creek. This place de- 
serves notice from the singular freak 
which nature has here played. The 
creek Avhich is generally 80 yards 
wide, is here contracted to the space 
of forty-Jive feet,- allowing between 
two ledges of rock which constitute 
the banks, to the height of 16 ft. over 
a bottom of solid rock. Immediately 
below this narrow passage, the creek 
widens to its usual size, and the falls 
commence. The descent is 7 feet in 
120 yards. At the lower end of the 
falls, the creek is 100 yards wide, and 
affords one of the best harbors ever 
known in a stream of this size, being 
about 100 yards in diameter, of a cir- 
cular form, and on the N. side, pro- 
tected from ice, &c. by a high point 
of rocks, projecting a considerable dis- 
tance into the creek. From this to 
the Ohio river, the navigation is good 
during the spring freshets, — a dis- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 367 

tance of 4 miles- At this place arel 11 dwelling houses, 3 school houses, 
situated, 1 extensive manufacturing 1 mercantile store, and 1 smith shop, 
flour mill, 2 sawmills, 1 grist mill, [Population 55. 



JEFFERSON. 

Jeffekson was created by the Legislature in 1801, and formed from a 
portion of Berkley county. It is bounded N. by the Potomac river, which 
separates it from Washington county, of Maryland, — E. by the Blue Ridge 
separating it from Loudoun, — S. by Frederick, — and W. by Berkley. Its 
mean length is 22 ms. ; breadth 10; and area 220 sq ms., extending in lat. 
from 39° 10', to 39° 20' N., and in long from 0° 43', to 1° 02' W. of W. 
C. The Siienandoah river enters this county near its south eastern border, 
and flowing in a N. E. direction, parallel with the Blue Ridge, it enters 
the Potomac at Haper's Ferry. I'he face of this county is rolling but very 
fertile. Most of the inhabitants are good farmers : and the county is proba- 
bly as wealthy in proportion to its .size as any in the state. The lands have 
been enhanced in value from one hundred to o)ie hundred and fifty per cent 
by the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road, 
both of which, reach the county at Harper's Ferry ; and taken in connec- 
tion Avith the Winchester and Harper's Ferry Rail Road, which passes di- 
agonally through the county, the Shenandoah flowing through the eastern 
portion, and the Potomac along the northern border, afford the citizens as 
many facilities for transportation as the tide water counties possess. The 
decline of the county is N. N. E. The water elevation at Harper's Ferry 
being 182 ft. above tide water, that of the arable soil cannot fall short of 400 
ft. This county has been for the most part settled by old Virginia families 
from the eastern part of the state, and the inhabitants still retain that high 
chivalrous spirit, and generous hospitality, for which that race Avas so re- 
markable in the palmy dajs of their prosperity. Population in 1810, 
11,851,— in 1820, 13,087— in 1830, 12,927. This county belongs to the 
13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,063 97 — in 
1834, on lots, $677 93— land, $2,690 82—2,354 slaves, $588 50—4,308 
horses, $258 48—17 studs, $232 00—143 coaches, $326 80—2 stages, 
$4 00—31 carryalls, $31 00—51 gigs, $38 50. Total, $4,848 08. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $705 26 — in 1833, 
$670 05. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

CHARLESTOWN,P. V.aiid*SV«/:and several other schools, 9 mcrcan- 
o/" J?/ .>;/?> (I-, 182 ms. from R. and 60 N.I tile stores, 2 apothecary shops, 1 
W. of W., situated 10 ms. S. W. by printing office, from Avhich a weekly 
W. of Harper's Ferry, with which it| paper is issued, 3 tanneries, 3 sad- 
is connected by an excellent turnpike, i dlers, 1 turner, and various other me- 
Besides the usual county buildings, it chanics, and 1 manufacturing flour 
contains 200 dwelling houses, — a! mill. Its .situation is eligible and 
Methodist, Episcopalian, and a Pres-j healthy, and surrounded by a fertile 
byterian house of worship, a branch; and wealthy country. The Shenan- 
oi" the Bank of the Valley, 1 academy 'doah Springs, formerly a place of con- 



368 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



siderable resort, are in the neighbor- 
hood of this place. The Winchester 
and Potomac Rail Road, now in pro- 
gress, will pass through Charlestown. 
Population 1,200 persons; of whom 7 
are attorneys, and G regular physi- 
cians. 

County Courts are held on the 2rd 
Monday in eVery month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Pauker holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 25 jA of March and 10//t of 
October. 

Harper's Ferry, P. V. 174 ras. 
from R. and 52 S. W. by W. of W. 
This place has risen at the justly cel- 
ebrated pass of the Potomac through 
the Blue Ridge, and is situated im- 
mediately at the junction of the Poto- 
mac and Shenandoah rivers, on the 
right bank of Potomac, above the 
mouth of Shenandoah. The level of 
low water at the junction of the two 
rivers, is 182 ft. above tide water at 
Georgetown. It is distant 22 ms.| 
S. W. by W. of Frederick, Maryland, { 
and 25 almost due south of Hagers-, 
town. It contains about 500 houses,, 
2 hotels kept in the best style, 3i 
houses of public worship, 1 Methodist, j 

1 free for all denominations, and li 
Catholic. The last is one of the' 
handsomest and neatest buildings in! 
the state, — in this church, there is ai 
fine toned organ, and it is ornamented 
by a beautiful steeple, which ascends 
to the height of about 150 ft. above 
the level of the river. There are 2 
academies, (1 male, and 1 female,) audi 

2 common schools, 9 mercantile ttoresj 
and 2 apothecary shops, a lodge of 
masons, and 1 of odd fellows, 1 print- 
ing office, from which a weekly pa- 
per is issued, 4 tailors, 3 boot and 
shoe factories, 1 saddler, 1 silversmith, 
! coppfcrsmith and tin plate worker, 

3 house carpenters, 2 smith shops, 
and I wagon maker. There are 2 
extensive manufacturing flour mills, 
and 1 of the most valuable saw millt 



in the United States. The principal 
curiosities of the place, are Jefferson's 
Rock and the Maryland Pinnacle, 
from the highest point of which, with 
the aid of a good glass, may be seen 
towns at the distance of 30 ms. 

Those great national works, the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the 
Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road are 
now completed to this place, which 
circumstance has already had a very 
sensible effect on it, for the better. 
There are 3 arrivals and departures 
of the mail to and from the east, and 
3 from the west in each week. There 
is also a mail from Hagerstown, by 
Harper's Ferry and Leesburg to 
Washington City, twice a week. — 
Formerlj'- Harper's Ferry Avas con- 
sidered unhealthy, but ior the last 5 
years it has been quite the reverse. 

We borrow a more extensive ac- 
count of the scenery of Harper's Fer- 
ry, and the United States Armory 
and Arsenal, there located, from a pe- 
riodical published a k\Y years since. 

"The Shenandoah, after running 
along the foot of the Blue Ridge in a 
direction nearly north-east, turns sud- 
denhr to the east, and mingles its wa- 
ters with those of the Potomac, at the 
point where the latter, after flowing 
through a deep and well wooded dell, 
from north-west to south-east, is en- 
tering that singular gap in the Ridge, 
through which the Avaters escape. 
The valleys of both rivers are roman- 
tic, and that of the Potomac unites sin- 
gularity with beauty. 

We are accustomed to find valleys 
running parallel to mountain chains 
and separating ridge from ridge; the 
whole of the great valley, Avhich lies 
between the North Mountain and the 
Blue Ridge, and Avhich is called in 
this part of the country " the valley" 
•par txceller(,ce, presents an alternation 
of such parallel, low lands and inter- 
vening heights; the Shenandoah oc- 
cupying one of the former. But the 
valley of the Potomac is not of this 
class, it intersects at right angles the 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



369 



great mountain ranges and the sys-' every part of the channel, whose sides 
tern of smaller elevations which are are worn by thousands of petty rapids, 
subordinate to them; and the river is which fret and struggle among the 
thus distinguished from the more nu-' large blocks of granite, 
merous class of streams, which oc- The town extends itself in contempt 
cupy the bottoms of ordinary valleys. | of all order, along both sides of the 
The Potomac is not, however, a soli-l hill w^hich divides the two rivers, and 
tary example of this kind, on the con-! runs up to tlie jaws of the picturesque, 
trary, most of our great Atlantic riv-|but in no way tremendous, pass of the 
ers penetrate the mountains by exten-l Potomac. At the point of this tongue 
sive lateral valleys, or are said, Avithjof land is the armory; on the left, and 
some degree of impropriety, to break^nesLxly even with the water, the Avork- 
through the mountains at right angles ing part of the arsenal: on the right 
to their direction. These profound and over hanging the wfstern bank 
passes are not uncommon in other of the Shenandoah, is Jefierson's Rock, 
parts of the world, and present seve-i On the opposite banks of the two 
ral varieties. A deep ravine, in which | rivers the cliffs are more bold and 
the rocks, presenting unequal resis-j striking. That, on the Maryland 
tance, have separated unequally, and side, is supposed to resemble the pro- 



where the stream, which rushes 
through this accidental outlet, leaps 
from rock to rock, and is alternately 
seen foaming in the cataract or lost 



file of Washington, an illusion very- 
pleasing to those whose minds are not 
adapted to relish the beauties of na- 
ture. The two cliffs, of which we 



in the narrow and gloomy gulf be- have spoken, form a noble entrance 
low; in short where the waters are! to the romantic valley which lies be- 
not to be regarded as flowing over a;yond, embosomed among woods and 
bed, but rather as penetrating through; mountains and winding among the 
crevices, which earthquakes have bro-1 projections of the latter until its exit 
ken in the immense wall ihat confined; is as'ain guarded by immense rocks, 
them. Such is the appearance, which I where a passage, corresponding to 
tlieory would assign to these trans- that at Harper's Ferrj', is broken 
verse valleys and their streams; but| through the Short Hills — a chain pa- 
such is not the valley of the Potomac, irallel to the Blue Ridge, and con- 
As seen from Harper's Ferry it pre-jnected with it by spurs which inclose 
sents a bed of nearly uniform declivi-jon every side this dell that contains 
ty and width, corresponding in the.'^ei.so many elements of the picturesque, 
respects with that of the Shenandoah, j The mountains, of considerable height, 
a valley, as I have before observed, ofjare clothed to their summit by forests 
a different class. The channels ofiof oak and pine, from out the thick 
both rivers are of rock, much broken, I shade of which, project immense 
but presenting on the whole a regular | masses of granite, that yet stand the 
declivity, and passing in highly in- 1 stern witnesses of some tremendous 
clined strata across the river. The convulsion, the traces of w-hich not 
prevailing rocks of the whole neigh-jeven time, that has for thousands of 
borhood being a coarse granite con-' years been scattering their debris 



taining imusually large grains of 

quartz, and a species of slate stone. 

The breadth of the Potomac is from 

tAVO hundred and fifty to three hun 



daily below, has been able to oblite- 
rate. The base of these mountains 
presents elevated and very rugged 
cliffs, which, projecting into the val- 



dred yards: that of the Shenandoah,] ley, break its uniformity, and give a 
one hundred and fifty. Both rivers] wilder aspect to the river, that spreads 
are shallow, so shallow that the wa-! itself between them, 
ter leaves innumerable necks bare in' A greater abundance of water 
47 



370 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



would convert this valley into a sin- 
gularly wild and beautiful lake, a 
mirror worthy of the noble objects it 
would reflect. But the character of 
the Potomac is the same here as be- 
iore its waters are united with those 
of the Shenandoah. A channel, too 
extended for the stream, presents eve- 
ry where its rugg-ed bed, interspersed 
with thousands of rills and small pools 
of water. Yet has this deficient 
stream, a sublimity of its own; the 
rugged bed is in unison with the 
rocks which overhang it, and with 
the dark and often blasted pines, which 
clothe them ; and if, in awful gran- 
deur, it cannot be compared Vi'ilh the 
passage of the Rhone through the 
Alps, or in beauty, Avith some of the 
smaller lakes, so abundant in the 
northern states of eur own country, it 
is yet a most highly impressive scene. 
Commanding interest from the praise 
of one whose praise vv'as celebrity, 
Harper's Ferry seems often to have 
disappointed foreigners who expected 
to find a scene as unique as the Nat- 
ural Bridge, and as sublime as the 
falls of Niagara. 

Those who form such extravagant 
expectations will not have them real- 
ised, but the rational admirers of na- 
ture will find abundance to admire in 
the beauty, the grandeur, and the sim- 
plicity of the spot. 

This subject gives us occasion to 
regret, that the many commanding po- 
sitions, which our mountains present, 
should be so little known. The wes- 
tern part of Virginia abounds in ro- 
mantic scenery, but the traveller may 
toil for hours in ita immediate vicinity, 
plunged in a depth of shade, that ex- 
cludes all idea of the beauty by which 
he is surrounded : to ascend the moun- 
tains is difficult, and adds but little to 
his chance of gratification ; the foli- 
age is nearly as thick there as at their 
base; but the necessary local know- 
ledge would be at the command of all, 
if those, who annually make summer 
excursions through our country, were 



as ardent admirers of nature as they 
commonly are of Warm Springs or 
other spots, which draw together a 
number of half sick, half idle people, 
who lounge away the best part of the 
year. As an instance, how many 
Dr. Syntaxes in search of the pictu- 
resque, of the company at the springs, 
or the Avonders of Wej'er's Cave, 
plunge in the interminable shades of 
Brown's Gap, which brings so forci- 
bly to mind the falsehood of Thorn- 
son's lines. 

I care not fortune what j'ou me deny, 
You cannot bar me from lair nature's 
grace, 
You cannot shut the v:indov:softhc sly 
Throngli which Aurora shews her smil- 
ing face. 

HoAV many unhappy wights per-- 
form this darksome pilgrimage, when 
they might, a iew miles oft', from 
Turk's Gap, have seen the sun rise 
over a landscape, which exhibits the 
country, tov.'ards tide water, spreading 
out in an extent of forest as boundless 
and level as the ocean, to the north 
and south the long chain of the Blue 
Ridge, to the west the well cultivated 
valley watered by the Shenandoah, 
adorned by detached and picturesque 
mountains, and bounded by the hazy 
and unbroken line of the North 
Mountain. 

To return to Harper's Ferry. The 
exit of the river at the Short Hills on 
the JVIaryland side is called the Point 
of Rocks; it is here that two rival com- 
panies contended for the exclusive 
right to possess a narrow gorge, 
which now gives passage at once to a 
river, a canal, and a Rail Road. A 
handsome wooden bridge, seven hun- 
dred and fifty feet from one abutment 
to the other, and with a space between 
the piers of more than one hundred 
and eighty ft., connects the town with 
the Maryland shore; whilst the funds 
jfor a similar structure over the Shen- 
landoah have already been subscribed.* 

1 

' *This work we believe has since been 
completed. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



371 



The former bridge is simple and dis- tion, burst the stone asunder, and pro- 



plays the skill of the engineer; it is 

sustained by arches formed of three 

tiers of planks placed edgcvays, and 

whose joints give shift to each other; 

king posts, fanning from the centre, 

unite these planks and sustain a roof 

which, by its diagonal framing, serves 

to give stability in a lateral direction.] have been borrowed from an admira- 

The bridge is double. Did not the ble contrivance in the celebrated 



ject the pieces forward. The barrel 
passing through these cheeks, bears 
against the stone, and is drawn across 
it with a motion resembling that of a 
screw. 

The stocks are shaped by a ma° 
chine, the idea of which seems to 



name of the engineer, by whom this 
structure was erected, give sufficient 
guarantee for its excellence, the ob- 
server might fear that economy had 



Block Machinery of Brunei. The 
writer was struck immediately with 
the resemblance, and, on inquiry, 
found that the inventor, Blanchard, 



been too much consulted in the mate- had previously introduced the use of 
rials. j Brunei's m?.chinery in this country. 

The natioiii.l arsennl at Harper's The reader will readily form a 
Ferry is an object worthy of attention, general idea of this machine. Let 
Eighty or ninety thousand stand ofj him imagine two wheels, eight or ten 
arms are usually kept there, and as! inches in diameter, placed one behind 
these are sent off to other depositarieSjthe other, and in the same plane; one 
their place is supplied from the exten-1 of these has a smooth, round edge, 
sive manufactory adjacent. It is in-lthe other is furnished with steel cut- 
teresting to observe the facility v.dth iters, which are parallel to the circum- 
which a weapon, so complicated asjference. Further let him suppose 
the musket, is produced. A bar of two turning lathes, placed side by 
iron is forged into a rough tube, the' side, in the one an iron stock as a 
interior of which is formed into a, guide or pattern, in the other the 
smooth surface by drills turned by the wooden stock to be turned. Now let 
power of water. At first, the barrel,! him suppose, that, whilst these two 
strongly fastened, is moved slowly stocks are in a rapid rotatory motion, 
forward, whilst the drill, a cylindri- the plane wheel of which we have 
cal rod of iron, terminating in a rec- spoken is made to traverse the whole 
tangular bar, ten or twelve inches length of the iron, and is pressed 
long, revolves with rapidit}', but with-| against it by a strong spring; this 
out progressive motion; the barrel is;Vv-heel, it will be remembered, is con- 
surrounded hy water, which, though: neeted invariably with that which is 
constantly renewed, becomes warm to [furnished with cutters: if then the lat- 
the touch. The barrel is not made iter be brought into contact with the 
cylindrical by a single drill, a succes-j wooden stock at the moment when 
sion is employed, until, in the appli-jthe first wheel commences its motion 
cation of the finer drills, the barrel,! along the pattern, it will perform a 
only fastened in the middle, is left! similar journey along the wooden 
free to adapt itself to the motion of the stock, and only requires, that ii should 
drill. be kept in a rapid rotatory motion, in 

The outside of the barrel is polish-' order that it may shape, by its cutters, 
ed by enormous grindstones, turningjthis stock to the form of the iron pat- 
with great rapidity. These stones] tern against which the guiding wheel 
are guarded by thick cheeks of wood,! is pressed. Some contrivance is re- 



to which is fixed a covering, that les- 
sens the danger, should the centrifu- 
gal force, arising from so rapid a mo 



quisite to provide the rotatory motion, 
spoken of, in the second wheel; as 
this wheel moves longitudinally the 



373 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 



Etrap by wliicli it turns, must liave a 
like motion; to effect this it is passed, 
below, round a large cylinder, in lieu 
of an ordinary drum wheel, and, be- 
ing confined above by the sides of the 
drum over which it passes, shifts it- 
self without difficulty along the cylin- 
der and remains ahvays vertical. 
This machine will shape a musket 
stock in about eight seconds, 

The limits of this article will not 
permit us to describe the operations 
by which the minute parts of the mus- 
kets are completed. The whole gives 
employment Avhen in full work to 
about two hundred and fifty men, and 
at such times fourteen hundred mus- 
kets have been finished in a month. 
The average cost is about eleven dol- 
lars for each musket, and a good 
workman will earn two dollars a day. 
About a dozen of the workmen are 
from England, chiefly from the Ar- 
mory Mills which were worked du- 
ring the war near Deptford in Kent. 
The muskets are lighter, and in this 
respect preferable to the English; the 
workm.en did not hold the iron, which 
is chiefly from Massachusetts, in the 
same esteem. The establishment is 
governed by a superintendant who 
receives fourteen hundred dollars a 
year, and conducted by a master ar- 
morer at sixty dollars per month, and 
four assistants at forty dollars. 

We must not quit this part of the 
subject without mentioning Hall's 
rifle, Avhich is loaded at the breech, 
and of which there is a separate man- 
ufactory here. The barrel is formed 
of two portions by being cut asunder 
a few inches from the breech. And, 
on touching a trigger, placed before 
the ordinary one, the lower portion is 
raised out of the stock by a spring, 
and may be loaded as a pistol. When 
pressed down again the parts perfectly 
coincide, and the movable part of the 
barrel is retained in its place by a 
catch. 

Much time is undoubtedly saved in 
loading a rife, by this contrivance, 



and it may obviously be done with 
less chance of exposing the rifleman 
to a hostile aim. But no inventions 
are more uncertain as to ultimate el- 
fect than those in the art of war. The 
confusion and violence of warfare for- 
bid the employment of any but the 
simplest weapons; and it may be 
doubted whether these divided por- 
tions — subject to violence, to rust, to 
the intrusion of foreign substances 
between the stock and the lower por- 
tion — when elevated, will, after much 
use, coincide with sufficient accuracy 
to allow the passage of the ball, even 
though no great accuracy is required 
for that purpose. An inconvenience 
does, however, attend the loading of 
rifles, a weapon of great importance 
in American warfare, and the expedi- 
ent we have described seems the most 
simple and therefore the best which 
could be devised to remove it." 

Lee Town, P. O. 165 ms. from 
R. and 71 N. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the western end of the county, 
30 ms. W. of Harper's Ferry. It 
contains several dwelling houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 manufacturing 
flour mill, and 1 tavern. Lee Town 
derived its name from the celebrated 
General Lee avIio resided here. 
Population 54 whites, and 20 colour- 
ed. Total 74. 

MiDDLEWAY or Smitiifield, p. 
V. 161 ms. from R. and 86 N. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the western 
part of the Co., 7 ms. S. W. of Charles- 
town, and near Opequhan creek. 
It contains 63 dwelling houses, a Me- 
thodist and a Presbyterian house of 
worship, 2 common schools, 2 taverns, 
3 mercantile stores, 2 saddlers, 2 
smith shops, 2 boot and shoe fatto- 
ries, 2 tailors, 2 milliners, 1 watch 
and clock maker, 2 cabinet makers, 2 
tanyards, and 1 saw mill. There are 
2 turnpikes lead from this village, — 
I to Harper's Ferry, and the other to 
Shepherdstown. Population 500, in- 
cluding 2 attorneys and 3 regular 
physicians 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA 



373 



Shepherdstown.P. O. 184 rns. 
from R. and 62 N. W. of W., situated 
immediately on the west side of the 
Poiomac river, in the north western 
part of the county. It is a flourish- 
ing village, containing 150 dwelling 
houses, 6 mercantile stores, and ail 
the necessary mechanics for an inland 
town. There are 4 merchant mills, 
one of which has an overshot wheel 



of about 24 feet diameter, and the oth- 
ers of about 20. There is a small 
stream of considerable fall which 
runs through the town, immediately 
opposite to which is an inlet lock, to 
the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. 
Shepherdstown has 3 houses of public 
worship, and a population of about 
1000. 



KANAWHA, 

Kanawha was created by the Legislature in 1789, from a portion of 
Greenbrier and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Wood,- — N. E. by 
Lewis, — E. by Nicholas, — S. E. by Faj^ette, — S. and S. W. by Logan,-« 
W. by Cabell, — and N. W. by Mason and Jackson Its mean length is 58 
miles — mean breadth 36; and area 2,090 square miles; extending in lat. 
from 37° 53' to 38° 53' N. and in long, from 3° 55' to 4° 25' W. of W. 
C Gauly river unites with New river, to form the Great Kanawha, up- 
on the eastern border of the county. The Kanawha then flows through the 
county in a N. W. direction into Mason; receiving in its passage Elk ri- 
ver irom the N. E., — Coal river from the S. E., and Pocatalico from the 
North. — We cannot refrain from giving here a letter from an eminent lite- 
rary gentleman of this State to his friend in the lower country, which gives 
agraphic description of the magnificent Valley of the Kanawha. 

"jYou have often visited the mountain region of Virginia, and tasted of 
her various and unrivalled mineral waters. You have mingled with the 
fashionable throng at the White Sulphur, — regaled your palate upon the 
fine venison and other dainties of the forest, and bathed in the delicious foun- 
tain of the Warm Springs. You have never, I believe, however, extended 
your journey as far West as the Valley of Kanaioha. The great state 
road which commences at Covington, and secures you a safe passage to 
Lewisburg, passing the gigantic Alleghanies at a grade which is almost 
level, — pursues its winding yet steady course over ranges of lofty moun- 
tains, and through wild and hitherto unbroken depths of wilderness and 
shade. Now and then it courses along the margin of some rocky and 
stupendous precipice, often several hundred if not a thousand feet in depth, 
— and as the mail coach drawn by four spirited steeds, whirls you along 
the perilous clifT, — you feel an involuntary shuddering at the slender bar- 
rier which separates you from eternity. The blue mist which hovers along 
the yawning chasm beneath, and is visible through the variegated foilage 
which obscures without concealing the view, — impresses the mind withunde- 
finable images of danger; and indeed it would be well if the terrors which are 
sometimes inspired were those of imagination only, — for I have been credi- 
bly informed that in more than one instance, the lives of travellers have 
been exposed to imminent peril. At one of those narrow defiles, the spot 
was pointed out where the stage with eight passengers and driver rolled 
down a steep declivity of fifty feet. Fortunately the nature of the ground 
arrested its downward course, and still more fortunatelv, T had almost said 



374 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 

miraculously, although the luckless vehicle turned two or three somersets 
and was actually shattered into fragments, neither horse or passenger suf- 
fered material injury. Notwithstanding these disasters which occasionally 
await the traveller, this important and convenient highway which unites 
the east and west, is a. noble monument of skill, enterprise and labor. In 
its vast utility to the country which it mtersects, it may justly be compared 
to the introduction of steam navigation on our western waters. Distance 
and time are in a great measure overcome, or perceptibly diminished, and 
a journey which was once performed with insupportable fatigue and de- 
lay, is now achieved in one fourth of the time, and with comparative ease. 
Before reaching the valley of the Kanawha, the traveller is feasted by the 
sublime and picturesque scenery from the cliffs of New river, which is one 
of the principal tributaries to the Kanawha. One of these cliffs has been 
long known by the name of the Haick's Nest — but more recently called 
Marshall's Pillar, in honor of the Venerable Chief Justice who as one of 
the Stdte Commissioners in 1812, stood in person upon its fearful brink 
and sounded its e.xact depth to the river margin. Every one has heard of 
the far famed falls of Niagara — and yet I doubt if the beholder of that 
wonderful cataract ever experienced more of the true sublime, than the 
grand and elevating prospect from MarshalP s Pillar, is apt to inspire. 
Imagine yourself standing upon the projecting point of a perpendicular 
rock, 1200 feet from the valley below. Before you, as you look to the east, 
the New river is seen at the distance perhaps of several miles, winding or 
rather rushing, tumbling and foaming through the towering cliffs which 
environ it. Sweeping by the lofty promontory on Avhich you stand, it sud- 
denly turns its course in a south west direction, and presents in the whole 
distance several beautiful cascades, which send to the listening ear the far 
off, but lulling sound of their waters. The cliffs themselves, judging by 
the horizontal and corresponding strata of rock on either side, seem to have 
been originally united, but torn asunder by some strong convulsion of na- 
ture, in order to give free passage to the narrow but angry torrent which 
rolls majesticall\' at their feet. The autumnal season gives to this impos- 
ing picture a magnificent and gorgeous drapery of which no man whose 
vision has been confined to the lowland scenery has the slightest concep- 
tion. On one side a dark outline is defined by the shadow from the oppo- 
site cliffs, which leaving the base of the mountain of a sombre brown, pre- 
sents its summits shining with the rich and mellow tints of an October sun. 
In gazing from the dizzy hei"gth where the spectator is perched amidst 
sublime and solitary deserts, it requires but little effort of fancy to portray 
the haggard and inspired bard of Gray, standing 

" On a rock whose haughty brow 
Frowns o'er old Conwaj-'s foamnig flood." 

No hostile Edward it is true, is marching through this wilderness with his 
embattled legions, to victory and slaughter; on the contrary, a profound 
stillness prevails, which adds interest and solemnity to the scene — a still- 
ness which is disturbed by nothing save the distant wave which seems, but 
seems only to murmur at the base of the cliff So sublime indeed is its 
elevation, that whilst nothing seems easier than to cast a pebble from its 
beetling verge into the bed of the stream, the most powerful arm is foiled 
in the attempt. 

" After feasting on the sublime repasts which nature spreads before the 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 375 

eye of the tourist on these romantic cliffs, he is better prepared to enjoy by 
contrast his descent into the fertile and lovely vale of the Kanawha. That 
beautiful stream is formed by the junction of the Gauley and New rivers, 
at the base of the Gauley mountains. A short distance only below the 
point where the waters mingle, the ear of the traveller is saluted by the 
roar of the Great Falls — a fine cataract of twenty-two feet over a natural 
dam of rock which spreads irregularly across the Kanawha. I should 
judge from the sketches of the Great Niagara, by artists and picturesque 
tourists, that this was its copy in miniature. Certain it is, that on approach- 
ing the cataract -which you can easily do, over the vast masses of naked 
rock, which rise from the bed of the river — you feel the effect of the spec- 
tacle in all its sublimity. I will not say as JByron said of the cascade of 
Velino, that it is "horribly beautiful" — or that 

•' An Iris sits, midst its infernal surge, 
Like hope upon a death bed." 

There is nothing Avhich awakens infernal images in the cataract of Ka- 
naw^ha, but I saw distinctly the rainbow reposing its brilliant arch upon 
the white foam of the waters. Whatever disappointment, however, the 
limner might experience in his visit to this interesting spot, the epicure 
would meet with none at the spacious Hotel Avhich stands opposite the 
falls. To all lovers of the finny tribe, it is a perfect paradise. Here are 
fish, which if not unknown, are yet untalked of on the borders of our 
Atlantic streams. The delicious black perch, the grennel, the blue cat, the 
fine flavored bufTalo, and a species of sturgeon, all abound in profusion, and 
all present their respective claims to preference. If to these luxuries of 
the water, be added wild fowl, and forest game, which are found in abun- 
dance, the most fastidious gourmand might desire no higher fruition than 
is afforded in this favored region. 

For many miles after leaving the falls, the Kanawha Valley is narrow 
— winding — and unprepossessing. Its gigantic and various growth is in- 
deed interesting to the lowland traveller — and the vast masses of rock 
which tower in magnificent pride to the very summit of the mountains — 
are objects of curiosity and attention. At the same period in autumn, na- 
ture was perceptibly not so far in the "sear and yellow leaf," as in the 
more mountainous and elevated region. Her robe was fresher and greener, 
but yet there was not wanting that splendid variety and intermixture of 
colors which distinguish the western forests. The bright orange or golden 
yellow of the linn, the sugar tree and hickory were beautifully contrasted 
with the evergreen laurel, and with the dark and mournful hemlock. Now 
and then some parasitical creeper could be seen winding its brilliant red 
among the branches of a lofty tree of different foliage — and the ga}^ and 
graceful sumach would hang out its crimson drapery to delight the beholder. 
Unlike the low^land shrub of the same name, the sumach of the west is 
admitted into the family of trees; and so I presume it is in England, for 
otherwise the lines of Moore would not be intelligible. 

In the shade of yon sumach, whose red berrj'' dips 
In the gush of the fountain, how sweet to recline. 

Lovers unless they belonged to the race of pigmies, could hardly recline 
in the shade of one of our dwarfish sumachs in Eastern Virginia. 

" It is nearly twenty miles below the falls, before the Kanawha Valley 



376 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA 

widens into sometiiing like a plain, and opens its beautiful vista to the eve 
The mountains \^hich inclose it on either side become gradually depressed 
into hills — and for the first time the dense dark volumes of smoke which 
ascend from the salt furnaces, announce the busy and bustling scene which 
enlivens the highway to the village of Charleston. What a scene of ani- 
mation indeed, contrasted with the deep solitudes from which the traveller 
has but just emerged. — Here he is feasted with a continued succession of 
green m.eadows and cultivated fields teemnig with flocks and herds, and 
adorned by commodious and even elegant mansions. The chimnies of the 
salt manufactories pour forth at short intervals of space their curling masses 
of black vapor, whilst swarms of laborers and others connected with these 
establishments, are continually passing to and fro, — presenting a pleasing 
coup d'a'il of incessant activity and industry. — Nature indeed seems to 
have been prodigal in her bounties to this interesting region. The con- 
tiguous forests having been almost stripped to supply fuel to the salt fur- 
naces, — the precious mineral so necessary to human comfort, must have 
remained forever useless but for the discovery of inexhaustible beds of coal, 
so convenient of access, as to make the cost of procuring it scarcely Avorth 
considering. Sometimes, by suitable platforms and inclined culverts, it is 
thrown from the mountain side immediately to the door of the manufactory, 
and when more remote from the place of consumption, it is transported 
with equal ease in wagons or cars over rail roads constructed for the pur- 
pose. 

The whole product of the salt district, is estimated at 1,200,000 bushels 
annually — and this product must continue to swell with the increasing de- 
mand, and with the employment of additional capital. It is a curious fact, 
and worthy of philosophical inquiry, that whilst the salt water is obtained 
by boring at a depth of from 3 to 500 feet below the bed of the Kanawha, 
it invariably rises to a level with the river. When the latter is swollen by 
rains, or the redundant waters of its tributaries, — the saline fluid enclosed 
in suitable gums on the shore, ascends like the mercury in its tube, — and 
oily ffiUs, when the river is restored to its wonted channel. How this mys- 
terious correspondence is produced, is a problem which remains to be 
solved. Theories and speculation, I have heard on the subject, but none 
seem to me to be precisely consonant with the principles of science. 

Immediately on the road and a short distance from the bank of the river, 
the celebrated Burning Spring, attracts the curiosity of the traveller. A 
cavity in the earth of a few feet in diameter, presents at its bottom several 
small orifices from which an odorous gas, or strong bituminous vapor is 
constantly exhaled. When ignited by a lighted candle, Avhich is easily 
done, the whole becomes a sheet of flame, and is only extinguished by the 
plentiful application of water. Filling the cavity with water previously to 
ignition, does not diminish the brightness or fierceness of the blaze. In- 
flammable gasses undoubtedly abound in many portions of the valley. An 
anecdote illustrating the fact, was frequently related in my hearing, w^iich 
I cannot forbear to repeat. A very respectable gentleman somewhat ec- 
centric and a little profane, had been boring for salt to the depth of 600 feet, 
when his friends endeavored to dissuade him from the costly experiment. 
"Salt I will have" he exclaim.ed, "if I bore for it to the infernal I'egions !" 
Accordingly he pressed on in pursuit of his object — with renewed perse- 
verance and ardor — and his boring apparatus having penetrated one of 
those subterraneous recesses, where nature generates her mysterious and 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 377 

terrific ngents — a volume of flame suddenly burst through the orifice, and 
ascending far above the earth's surface, spread terror and amazement in 
the neighborhood. The less enlightened and superstitious, of course, 
fancied that the profane gentleman's threats had been really carried into 
execution, and that the contents of the awful and undefinable pit had been 
actually disgorged upon mother earth. 

"This charming country is not only rich in beautifiJ and picturesque 
.scenes, but abounds in objects' interesting to the naturalist and antiquarian. 
Besides its ine.xhaustible treasures of salt and coal, a quarry of fine marble 
has been recently found on the Elk river, and I doubt not that discoveries 
equally valuable would reward the diligent explorer. Specimens of slate 
stone, and other formations with impressions of vegetable remains are 
common, and a gentleman of science and distinction, informed me that 
coral had been found deeply imbedded in rock. Among the curiosities, 
may be mentioned, the CalUco and Pictured racks; the former of which 
represents a series of beautiful and uniform figures, inscribed by some won- 
derful process of nature, anct the latter which is evidently a work of art, 
exhibits a variety of rude sketches of birds, fishes and beasts — generally 
supposed to be specimens of aboriginal sculpture. 

"There is, as I am informed, some miles from the bank of the Kanawha, 
n ctirious petrified tree, and the whole country if* full of Jndian fortifications 
and mormds. From one of these ancient sepulchres an intelligent gentle- 
man stated to the writer, that a human skeleton was taken not many years 
since, probably the remains of some dislinguished chief, whose exploits in 
battle or the chase had won the admiration of his-lcibe. 

"indeed there is no department of natural history which might not be 
enriched by valuable acrjiiisitions from this and almost every other portion 
of Western Virginia. The developm.ent of its bou.ndle.'^s mineral wealth 
would not only extend the borders of science, but materially subserve the 
useful arts and the interests of commerce. Let channels of inter-commu- 
nication with the east be opened and multiplied by a liberal systein of im- 
provement — let a geological survey be authorized by the Legislature, in 
imitation of the wise policy of Pennsylvania and Maryland — and the pa- 
triot Avill not yet despair of beholding this ancient and venerable State re- 
gaining her lost rank in the confederacy. 

"In enjoying the pleasures and advantages of safe transportation along 
the great State road, which traverses this section, there is a spectacle often 
presented, which awakens a melancholy train of reflections. I allude to 
the number of emigrants, who allured by the hope, sometimes deceptive, of 
improving their condition, are bending their toilsonie march to the far west. 
Imagination becom.es busy in conjuring up the broken ties of early asso- 
ciation, of kindred and country — and we read in the sorrowful visages of 
some of these wretched fugitives, tales of mental and bodily sufiering, 
■which no language could express. It is true, that some of these number- 
less caravans present the exterior of comfort and even happiness, but for 
the most part it is evidently the last struggle of despairing poverty, to 
escape from the hardships of its lot. Whilst the philanthropist shudders 
at such scenes of wretchedness, the politician must mourn over the unceas- 
ing drain to population, as well as the causes which produce it. I trust, at 
least, if the wave of emigration must continue to tlow westwardly, that the 
time will shortly come, when the forests and mountains of our own Con\- 
'18 



378 



WESTERN VIRCIIS'IA— KANAWHA. 



mon wealth, will present suflicienl attractions to break its force, it docs 
not entirely arrest it." 

Population in 1S20, 7,000—1830, 9,326. It belongs to the 19th judi- 
cial circuit, and lOlh district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,520 23 — in 1834 on 
on lots, 61S0 31— land, $808 87—1197 slaves, 8294 75—2197 horses 
$131 82-9 studs, $i9 00—22 coaches, $51 00—22 carryalls, $22 00 
— 10 gigs, $6 8.5. Total, $1,585 13. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $314 72— in 1833, 8752 88. ' 



TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Burning Sprixg. This natural i runs through a romantic valley, with- 
curiosity is situated in thelow grounds jout receiving any tributary of any 
of the Great Kanawha river, 7 "nis. [consequence, from the junction of its 
above the mouth of Elk river, anctinorth east and its west Fork, until it 
67 above that of the Kanawha. The I receives Little Coal river from the 
^'pring is a cavity in the earth of the south. "Much trade is carried on by 
capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, from the hardy mountaineers who dwell 
which issues constantly a bituminous I on the banks of this river, in boats 
vapor in so strong a current as to lor the carriage of salt, and saw logs, 
give to the sand about its orifice the which are brought down in times of 
motion Avhich it has in a boiling- freshet, from a distance of an hun- 



iipring. On presenting a lighted 
candle or torch within 18 inches of 
the hole, it flames up in a. column of 
18 inches in diameter, and four or 
five feet in height, which sometimes 
burns out within 20 minutes, and at 
other times has been known to con- 
tinue three days, and then has been 
left still burning. The fiame is un- 



dred miles. These boats sell on the 
Kanawha for one dollar, to a dollar 
and twenty-five cents for each foot in 
length, and the logs Irom a dollar 
to one dollar and fifty cents per log. 
This money is laid out in goods, with 
which the enterprising woodsman re- 
turns. The obstructions in Coal 
rive-r prevent its navigation in ordi- 



sieady, of the density of that of burn i nary seasons. The loiver falls of 
ing spirits, and smells like biirningiCoal river are situated 5 miles above 



pit coal. Vv^ater sometimes collects 
in the bason which is remarkably 
cold, and is kept in ebullition by the 
vapor issuing through it. If tli.e 
vapor be fixed in that staite, the water 
soon beconies so warm that the hand 
cannot bear it. This with the cir- 
cumjacent lands was the property of 



Liie mouth, — and 5 miles above these 
are the upper falls. These falls, from 
the great water power which they 
afford at all seasons, viill in time be- 
come places of considerable impor- 
tance. A few years hence and this 
section will become a fine wheat 
country. It is rapidly filling up Avith 



General Washington and of General 'industrious, honest and enterprising 



Lewis 

CoALSMOUTH, P. V. 319 ms. from 
R. and 368 from W., situated on the 
south side of the Kanawha river, 12 
ms, below the town of Charleston, 



people, and soon a plenty of the raw 
material will be found for manufac- 
tories, and if a scarcity of produce 
should occur by bad crops, the trans- 
portation from Ohio by steam boats, 



and at the mouth of Coal river. This costs in comparison but little, and can 
little river is about 100 yards wide atibe brought to any point, not distant 
its mouth, and does not vary this three miles from either of the falls, 
width for many miles above. It is] From its local advantages and the 
a beautiful meandering stream, which |tide of immigration, it must in a few 



WESTERN VIRGINLV—KANAWHA. 



379 



years become much of a manufactu- 
ring countiy. On the river Coal is 
found a great deal of very fine land, 
and the countr3'' is not so mountain- 
ous, or the sides so precipitous as to 
preclude their cultivation. The 
quantity of game has depreciated 
considerablj^ within the last 10 years, 
which is an evidence of the great in- 
crease of population: however the 
industry of the inhabitants furnishes 



association with families who immi- 
grated from Eastern Virginia, have 
made wonderful change in the mor- 
als of the people. About a half mile 
Lip the river Coal, is a beautiful 
covered bridge. This bridge is on 
the turnpike road belonging to the 
State; below the bridge is a well 
graduated road, leading to and Irom 
the ford, which is seldom for four 
months in the year morethan 12 inches 



a sufficient quantity of fine venison, 'deep, the water passing over a fine 
and other wild game for the table,] sandy bottom. At the bridge is a 
and the calculation may be in obtain- tavern kept in the best st3''le, a black- 
ing for years a reasonable supply fori smith shop, a tailor and carpenter 
home consumption. Some few jj'earSi shop, a house of pablic worship, 
ago the inhabitants made it one of j (Methodist,) and 4 private families, 
their sources of traffic, but since the' with 2 regular physicians. At this 
enterprise of these hardy sons of the [place the stage passengers going' to 
forest has been turned into another: and from the -west, dine. The post 
channel, they seldom have time, or i office is kept here, a^nd four mails ar- 
feel disposed to hunt, except to obtain! rive from dilTerent points and are 
venison for their own families andi opened at this office— two daily and 
the neighborhood. The river afibrds! two three times a week. A por- 
in season the finest fish. The large jtioa of the VdtA at this place has late- 
black and while perch, the salraonjlybe?u faid 63* in half acre lots, v.dth 
pike, large cat fish, &c. &c. The a view of establishing a town, azid 
delicious soft shell turtle is abundantJsome of the' lots have already been 
and can be obtained with little trou-jsold, and itiany buildings are in pro- 
ble, and is by far superior to the ssaiy.Vi-s of erection. A large ma«u 
turtle. The shell is cooked and.sur-jA^ctory is about going into ope'ration, 
passes the fine green fat turtle. Coaljaud an extensive and weliassoi'ti^d 
river is fordable four months in the j mercantile store has 'lately been et- 
year. At Coalsmouththere isa good tablished, and there is every proba- 
tavern, a mercantile store, and 3 pri-jbility that Coalsmouth in a few years 
vate families ; about 1 mile from theiwill become a handsome and "flour- 
mouth, down the Kenawha, is a large ishing rillag*, extending from, the 
steam manufacturing mill, a gristj bridge to the mouth of Coal ru'er. 
and saw mill, a coopers, a tailor's' The immigration to tlie west through 
and blacksmith's shops, and 4 privatejthis place is very great, which gives 
families. The bottom land about theito the farmer an opportunity of dis- 
mouth of Coal is rich, and in ex- 1 posing of his surplus produce, his 
tent about a half mile wide. The' wheat can at all times be sold at his 
usual average crop of the farmer isidoor from 62| to 75 cents per bushel, 
50 bushels of corn and 25 of wheat|and the casli paid. Coal river de- 
to the acre. The country at this! rives its nanie froai the quantity pf 
point has a grand and beautiful ap-jcoal in which it abounds, and that of 
pearance, — the neighborhood is com-jthe finest quality. The, resources of 
posed of many refined and wealthy' this neighborhood and county are jn- 
families; — some few years back the calculable, and to the enterprising 
inhabitants were unrefined, and rude j man holds out advantages truly, fiat- 
in their manners, but religion and an terino-. The country is remarkably 



380 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 



healthy, — no local disease is attached 
to the neighborhood. 

Hansford, P. O. 292 ms. from 
R. and 333 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated on tlie Kanawha turnpike, 
opposite to the mouth of Painl'^ 



Branch of the Bank of Virginia, a 
masonic lodge and chapter, a bible 
society, a. tract, colonization and sun- 
day school society. There are 13 
miscellaneous stores, 3 hotels, 3 smith 
shops, und 1 tanyard, 2 steam saw 



rwer, — 21 ms. E. of Charleston, and 
14 W. of the Falls of the Great Ka- 
nawha. The only houses are a mer- 



crcek, or as some call it, Y<;//(^tr; mills, ;.nd one steam merchant mill. 

The Kanawha river is here a beau- 
tiful sheet of water, more than 300 
j'ards wide .and 20 feet deep at low 
cantile store, and a house of enter-| water, — navigable for steamboats, 
tainmcnt. There are in the imme-jThe slate turnpike passess through 
diate vicinity 3 miscellaneous stores, this town, on which there is a line 
1 Baptist house of worship, and a|of stages from Washington city and 
temperance societ3^ The principal! Richmond to Guj^andotle, which car- 
pursuits of the inhabitants are agri-irics the mail from these two cities in 
culture, and building flat boats to four days and a half Population 



navigate the KanaAvha. These boats 
are generally from GO to 100 feet in 
length. 

KANAVv^HA C. H. or Charles- 
ton, P. V. and seat of justice, 308 
ms. N. W. by W. of R., and 3.56 
from W, This is a beautiful little 
village, suuatcd on the north bank of 
the Great Kanawha, at the junction 
of Elk river, GO ms. above the junc- 
tion of the former with the Ohio, and 
225 ms. W. of Charlottesville. Its 
principal street extends about a laile 
on the bank of the Kanawha, and is 
terminated by the Elk, which flows 
nearly at right angles into the former 
stream. Indeed there is something- 
like enchantment in the contrast of 
this flourishing village, with the wild- 
ness and solitude of the same spot, 
less than 30 j-ears past. The panther 
and wolf, have been driven from their 
savage haunts, by the march of civili- 
zation and refinement — and where aja Presbyterian house of Avorship, and 
few scattered log huts once arrested 1 hotel. The town is directly con- 
the traveller's ej'e, he now sees com- nected with the salt trade, and rapid- 
modious and elegant buildings, the ly improving. — A daily mail arrives 
abodos of comfort and even of luxu- at this place. 

ry. The village contains besides the Kanawha Salt Works. These 
ordinary county buildings, 12.5 dwcl- valuable works are situated on the 
ling houses, all presenting a neat and Kanawha river, commencing near 
fresh appearance. There are 2 Charleston, and embracing a distance 
hou.ses of public worship, (1 Presby-lof 1.5 miles above, on each side of 
terian and 1 Methodist,) a femalel the river. The salt Avater is obtained 
ocademy, and an infant school, a! anywhere Avithin tlial distance, ^y 



about 800 persons; of Avhom 7 are 
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. 
Charleston is remarkable for the li- 
berality and enterprise of its inhabi- 
tants. The hills adjacent abound Avith 
fine quarries of sandstone for build- 
ing, and rich bituminous stone coal, 
Avhich is the common fuel. 

County Courts are held on the 2>l 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember . 

Judge Summers holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of LaAv and Chance- 
ry on the \Ath of May and October. 

Kanaavha Saline or Terra 
Salis, P. O. 308 ms. N. W. of R., 
and 350 N. W. by W. of W. This 
is a new and small village situated on 
A^-iG. northAvestern side of the Kanaw- 
ha river about G miles above Charles- 
ton, containing 20 dAvelling houses, 
3 mercantile stores, a Methodist and 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 



3Sl 



boring or sinking a shaft, from three' 
to five hundred feet below the bed of' 
the river, through a solid rock, from] 
which it is brought to the surface! 
through the surrounding freshwater,! 
in copper tubes, and is raised to the' 
bank of the river by steam engines, 
and is thrown into cisterns, whence; 
it is conveyed to the furnaces. There | 
are at present about 60 furnaces, | 
manufacturing about one million two I 
Jiundred thousand bushels annually,! 
and the quantity is only limited by \ 
the demand. The adjacent hills j 
abound with stone coal of a superior; 
quality, which lies in horizontal; 
strata, varying in thickness from 4 
to 7 feet. The coal is conveyed from 
the mines to the furnace on rail roads. 
There has been for the last year a 
furnace manufacturing allum salt by 
steam, which is said to bo equal to 
the imported article. At this furnace 
100 bushels of this salt are made per 
day. Several others are erecting on 
the same plan, and will soon be in 
operation. The exports of the salt 
from these works in 1832, is estimat- 
ed as being u'orth to the proprietors 
6250,000." Seldom has it fallen to 
the lot of any region of country to 
possess such inexhaustible sources ol 
mineral wealth on the borders of a 



fine nevigable river, leading to a re- 
gion of country which will one day 
be filled with almost boundless mul- 
titudes of people. 

PocoTALico, p. O. 318 ms. from 
R. and 253 S. W. of W. 

Teage's Valley, P. O. 328 ms. 
from R. and 376 S. W. of W., situ- 
ated in the western part of the coun- 
ty, 20 ms. W. of Charleston. 

Walnut Grove, P. O. 330 ms. 
from R. and 379 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated in the western part of the 
county, on the left bank of the Great 
Kanawha river, 25 ms. below Charles- 
ton, and 35 above the confluence of 
the Kanawha and Ohio. No town 
has yet been laid out at this place, 
but a steam saw mill, a mercantile 
store, wood yard, &c., concentrate a 
good proportion of business. A 
steam manufacturing flour mill, and 
some other manufactories, are about 
going into operation, which with the 
advantages that the site derives from 
the facility of transportation in the 
surrounding country, the abundance 
of fine coal and timber in the neigh- 
borhood, and the facilities of the 
navigation, will proljably place it 
iamong the thriving villages of the 
west. 



L.EE. 



Lke Cotintv, was taken from Russell in the year 1792, it is situated. 
400 hundred miles W. S. W. of Richmond, — bounded N. and W. by the 
Cumberland mountains, separating it from the State of Kentucky, S. by 
Tennessee, E. by the county of Scott, and N. E. by the county of Russel. 
This county is singularly laid out, owing to its lying in Powel's valley, 
which is narrow: it is of considerable length and quite narrow, — its ex- 
tent from E. to W. is 85 ms., while its width from N. to S. does not exceed 
15 ms,, and area 800 sq. ms., extending in lat. 36^ 30' to 37° 06' and in 
long. 5° 35' to 6° 30' W. of W. C. This county is famous for the richness 
of the soil, productiveness of the lands, and largeness of the timber; among 
the growth of which is found the sugar maple, ash, buckeye, poplar, black 
and white walnut, lynn, black and white oak, maple, elm, cu/^umber, and 
beach; all of which grow very large and tall. The land is of a very black, 



3S-2 WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 

rich soil, well adapted to growing com, hemp, wheat, rye, oats, Irish pota- 
toes and timothy. 

This county has man}'- fine and excellent springs of water, breaking out 
from the base of the mountains, which make their way briskly down the 
vallies, which are deep and narrow, and consequently afford fine mill seats. 
The principal mountains are, Powell's mountain, Walden's ridge, the Stone 
mountain, Little Beach and Big Black. Walden's ridge takes its rise in 
the N. E. of this county, and runs S. W. into the State of Tennessee; these 
mountains and ridges are all rich on the N. side, while they are extremely 
poor on the S. side. The N. sides of the mountains abound with limestone 
of very hard quality, while the S. sides are covered with free stone. There 
is a leading small ridge, called the Poor Valley Ridge, which is entirely 
the reverse of any other in this range of hills and mountains, while the 
others are all poor, — on the S. side it is very rich and productive, while 
the N. side of this Ridge is very poor. There is a knob called Stock- 
er's knob in the N. E. part of the county, which is very high, 3 miles long, 
and at the E. end is a settlement called the Turkey Cove; and at the W. 
end is a another fine settlement called Yacum Station; these are two as fine 
settlements as the county affords. There is one other place worthy of no- 
tice, found among the mountaiiis of this county, and that is a very high 
peak, called the Butt of Powell's mountain. The mountain here bends pre- 
cisely iu the form of a horse shoe; — this bend of the mountain forms a most 
delightful cove of 1| miles in width, which is as level as a bowling green, 
and as rich as the delta of the Nile, covered thickly with trees of the largest 
growth, and the greatest height. " Precisely N. of this high peak called 
the bvAl, the north fork of Cluich river takes its rise, and runs through the 
mountain ; this gap through which the creek runs, is one of the most pic- 
turesque places in western Virginia. The mountain almost perpendicular 
on both sides, and covered with huge masses of craggy rocks, that look as 
though they would turuble from their sandy foundations, and fill the deep 
valley below, presents to the traveller one of the most striking displays of 
omnipotent power." On the E. side of this water course, we have one of 
the most noted salt-petre caves ever known; from which, there has been an 
immense quantity of salt-petre made. This cave is situated very near the 
top of Powel's mountain, and may be easily discovered from the valley, 
where you may see hillocks of the earth, from which the salt-petre has been 
extracted. There are al>>o large beds of fine iron ore, from which some 
years ago, there was a smill quantity of fine iron made at the iron works, 
on the north fork of Clinch river, which works has since gone into ruins. 
There are also other beds of fine iron ore in this count}^ lying on Martin's 
creek, from which, there is at this time a quantity of iron made. There are 
r>ow two forges situated on Martin's creek, which make excellent iron: also 
two on Indian creek, with one furnace for making castings. The princi- 
pal water courses, are Powell's river, Walden's creek, Martin's creek, In- 
dian crock and Trading creek. On the waters of this creek, the main road, 
ascends a considerable ridge, over which there has been a road of very an- 
cient dale, as there are at this time, <)frowing in the middle of the bed of the 
road, trees of the larges growth. The ascension of the ridge by the way of 
this road, shows that the greatest judgment and care, had been taken in lo- 
cating and. constructing the road. It is supposed that it has been ages since 
this road was constructed, as the earliest settlers of the county, found it as 
above described. 'J'here are in the country of Lee, 4 Methodist churches, 3 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 



3s: 



Baptist and I Presbyterian. There are 13 Methodist ministers, 6 Baptist 
ministers regularly ordained, and 2 physicians. The staple of this county 
is stock, such as beef, pork and horses, — the pork is carried to eastern Vir- 
ginia, the beef to Pennsylvania and Maryland, and the horses to Virginia, 
or North Carolina. The merchandize of every description is purchased in 
Baltimore, or Philadelphia. The people of this county make their own 
sugar and Molasses, from the sugar tree, which grows in great abundance, 
on the N. sides of all the mountains and creek bottoms. The tree is of a 
rough, short bark, spreading top and straight body, some quite white, and 
others very black. Those which are black have the sweetest water, and are 
very apt to be pecked very much b}" a bird of small size, called the sapsurk- 
er. The trees are chopped with a small axe, and bored with a small augur 
or gimblet, and a tube placed in the orifice, through which the water is car- 
ried into a small trough, placed for the purpose of catching the water. 
The tree which is thought to afford a common quantity of water,. will, if 
there is a hard freeze, and a warm day after it, afford 8 gallons of water, 
which will always make one pound of sugar, if carefully boiled down. The 
most common mode of boiling is to place the boilers in a small furnace; but 
this method requires more attention, to prevent the boilers from burning the 
sugar. There is in Lee county, probably more tree sugar made, than in 
any other county in the S. W. there being more fine sugar orchards. The 
precise quantity is not known, but supposed between 5 and 6000 pounds, with 
a quantity of molasses, which, if put up in vessels will keep and improve 
from age. Population of Lee in 1830, 4,2.56 — 1820, 6,461. It belongs to 
the fifteenth judicial circuit, and eight district. Tax paid in 1833, $715 12 
—in 1834 on lots, $18 92— on land, $352 14—327 slaves, $81 75— 
2330 horses, $139 80—10 studs, $48 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—4 gigs, 
$3 00. Total $650 61. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$404 34— in 1833, $284 43. 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



JONESVILLE, P. V. and Scai 

of Justice, 392 ms. S. W. by W. oi 
R. and 468 W. S. W. of W. in lat. 36- 
40' and long. 6^ 02' W. of W. C, 
situated N. of Powell's river, on one 
of its branches, 65 ms. N. E. of 
Knoxville, Tenn. and 60 S. E. by E. 
of Barboursville, Ktj^ The site on 
which this village is located is very 
uneven; resembling in this respect 
the general surface of the county. It 
was laid off in the year 1793. It 
contains besides the ordinary county 
buildings, Avhich are handsome, 40 
dwelling houses, 1 house of public 
worship, recently erected and free for 
all denaminations, 1 common school, 
4 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, 2' 
tanners and curriers, 3 saddlers, 1 
boot and shoe factory, 3 tailors, 4 



smith shops. 1 hatter, 1 wagon ma= 
ker, and several house carpenters. 
Population 159 whites; of whom 1 is 
a resident attorney, and 1 a regular 
physician, — colored 37. Total 196. 
This village stands upon a beauti' 
ful eminence, between the Stone mouU' 
tain ViXidi Walden's ridge, in Powell's 
valley, through which flows Powell's 
i-iver. The scenery which surrounds 
it, though wild is very pleasing, and 
especially so when the mountains on 
both sides are covered with rich ver- 
dure. The variety of hills presented 
by the mighty growth of forest trees 
rising in succession one above the 
other on all sides, with here and 
there an old grey rock jutting from 
the foliage, or a bank of moss peeping 
through, and nearly the whole earth 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEWIS. 



beneatli covered with luxuriant iierbs 
and flowers, present a scene of rich 
luxuriant beauty, of which a lowland- 
er, in his level unbroken plains can- 
not entertain a conception. 

County Courts are held on the 3/yZ 
Monday in every month. Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Estill holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chance- 



ry on the \st Mo7iday in April and 
September. 

Rose Hill, P. V. 412 ms. from 
R. and 4SS from W., situated 20 ms. 
W. of Jonesville, on the road leading 
from the .Crab Orchard and Wilder- 
ness, in Kty. by the Cumberland Gap, 
in Teun. tlirougk Powell's valley to 
Abingdon, IG ms. E. of the Gap, and 
'J5 VV. of Abingtiun. 



LEWIS. 

Lewis was established by act of Assembly in 18 IG, and formed from a por* 
tion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Harrison, — E. by Randolph, 
S. and S. W. by Kanawha,— S. by Nicholas and W. and N. W. by Wood. 
Its mean length is 54 ms. ; mean breadth 32|; andarea l,754sq. ms. extending 
in lat. from 38° 38' to 39" P2' N. and in long, from 3° to 4" 17' W. of W, 
C The surface of this county is composed of three inclined plains, — the 
southern portion inclining westward in the direction of the Little Kanawha, 
which flows through the county diagonally, from its southeastern to its 
southwestern angles,-— the northeastern portion inclines northward toAvards 
the West Fork of the Monongahela river, and Tygart's Vallejr river.und 
the northwestern portion inclines to the N. W. in the direction of Middle 
Island creek. The surface of the county is rocky, hilly, and in some parts 
mountainous. Population in 1820, 4,247 — in 1830, G,241. It belongs to 
the 18th judicial circuit and ,9th district. Tax paid in 1833, §851 37 — 
in 1834 on lot.s, $26 50— on land, $431 85—87 slaves, $21 75—2,312 
horses, $138 72— 15 studs, $71 00. Total $689 91. Expended in edu- 
ating poor children in 1832, 404 34 — in 1833, $467 36. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BucHANNON, P. V. 266 ms. N. W. 
of R. and 266 from W., situated on 
Buchannon river, in the eastern part 
of the county, 15 ms. from Weston, 
25 ms. from Beverly, and 30 from 
Clarksburg, county seats of Randolph 
and Harrison. Buchannon cannot 
be called a village, but rather a small 
settlement, having about 330 scatter- 
ing dwelling houses, extending along 
both sides of the river about 25 miles. 
There are in this settlement 4 houses 
of public worship, (2 Methodist, 1 
Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. No re- 
gular schools kept, except in the three 
winter months. There is i bible so- 



ciety, 2 tract and 3 temperance socie- 
ties. Within the limits mentioned 
are 2 mercantile stores, 7 cijnntry 
mills, 3 wool carding machines, 1 tan- 
yard, 8 or 10 blacksmith shops, and 
about the same number of boot and 
shoe factories, cabinet makers and 
house carpenters, with 2 wagon ma- 
kers and various other mechanics. 
The principal pursuit. of the inhabi- 
tants is agriculture. This is a finr 
section of country, and the land tolc 
rably fertile, producing corn, wheal 
rye, oats, flax, potatoes, &c. Buchan- 
non river runs nearly a N. course, 
and empties into Tygart's A^illey ri- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEWIS. 



365 



Vfer. tt lies between the Middle Fork 
a branch of Tygart's Valley river and 
the Monongahela. The state road 
passes directly through this settle- 
ment. Population 1,250. 

Bull Town, P. O. 296 ms. from 
R. and the same distance from W. 
situated on the Little Kanawha river, 
about 24 ms S. W. of Weslon. — 
Though called a village it is simply 
a post office, aad derives its name 
from the circumstance of a few fami- 
lies of Indians having been once set- 
tled on this river (Little Kanawha) 
about one mile and a quarter below 
this place, whose head man or chief 
was called Capt. Bull; and hence the 
name of Bull Town was given to 
their little village of wigwams, and 
the spot on which they lived yet re- 
tains the name, although the Indians 
have abandoned it since about the 
years 1771-2 or 3. There is now no 
vestige left on the spot where once 
their little town stood. The first set- 
tlement made at the place by a white 
man, was in 1800 or 1801, then 15 
or 20 ms. from any other inhabitants. 
It is now occupied as a farm by Mr. 
John Conrod, his dwelling house be- 
ing several hundred yards from it. 
The site on which the village stood is 
a little eminence projecting from the 
spur of a ridge into a spacious rich 
bottom, a part of which was cultivated 
by the Indians. There is a salt work 
.established here, on a limited scale, 
called the Bull Town Salt Works. 
These works manufacture from 15 
to 20 bushels of salt per day. This 
neighborhood is but thinly settled, 
having only 1 country grist and saw 
mill at the falls, 2^ ms. above this 
place. These falls are about 1 1 or 
12 feet, and form a valuable seat for 
iron works, there being an abundance 
of iron ore in the immediate vicinhy, 
lying idle for want of capital and en- 
terprize. In the vicinity are 2 tan- 
yards. The mail arrives at this P. 
O. once a week. 

Collins' Settlement, P. O 2S6 
49 



ms. from R. and the same distance 
from W., situated in the western part 
of the county. 

French Creek, P. O. 276 ms, 
W. of R. and 276 from W. This 
creek empties into Buchannan river. 
On the banks of this creek is situated 
French creek settlement, comprising 
about 8 ms. square, containing 66 
scattering dwelling houses, occupied 
by an industrious and enterprizing 
people, who have emigrated from the 
New England States within the last 
15 years. There are I house of pub- 
lic worship, (Presbyterian) 1 tanyard, 
a number ol wheelwrights, house car- 
penters, cabinet makers and joiners, 
and 1 temperance, 1 tract and I bible 
society. The principal pursuit of 
the inhabitants is agriculture. This 
settlement is divided into 5 school 
districts, where the common branches 
of English education are taught 6 
months in the year. The state of 
education, being far superior to that 
which exists in the country adjacent. 
Population 400. 

' Flat Woods P. O. 304 ms. from 
JR. and 304 W. of W., situated in the 
{western part of the county. 
' Freejian's Creek, P. O. 253 ms. 
I from R. and 245 W. of W. 
I Hackersville, p. O. 260 ms. 
jfrom R. and 246 W. of W. This is 
! merely a post ofHce, situated on Hack- 
er's creek, 7 ms. from Weston, 137 
from Clarksburg, 50 from the Ohio 
river, and 35 from the Little Kanaw- 
ha Salt Works. The neighborhood 
IS thickly settled. The lands are of 
the best quality v/ith extensive tracts 
of arable land suitable for meadows, 
on v/hich large quantities of cattle are 
! grazed and raised for market annual- 
:ly. The surrounding country is hil- 
|ly, and very productive, — abounding 
I with the best of stone coal, and well 
timbered with walnut, poplar, sugar 
maple, beach and white oak. In the 
vicinity are 3 houses of public wor- 
ship, 2 Methodist and 1 Baptist, 4 
'miscellaneous stores, 1 tanyard and 



J86 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— LOGAN. 



various inecliaiiios, and several mills. ims. eaters into the Little Kanawha, 
Leading Crekk, P. O. equi-dis- about 15 ms. above its confluence 
(ant 267 ms. from R. and W., sitimtedhvitli the Ohio. Hughes' river is 
in the northern part ofthe county, 181 navigable for more than 50 ms. from 
ms. from Weston. Leading creek isj its mouth, and sufficiently large for 
a small stream which empties into! floating vessels of considerable bur- 
the Little Kanawha, 112 ms. belowjthcn. Great quantities of lumber, be- 
the P. O. On its waters and tributa-' sides a number of flat bottomed boats 
ries are 40 dwelling houses, 1 Metho- are carried down this stream to the 
dist and 1 Baptist house of worship, Ohio. It abounds with excellent fish. 
2 common schools and 1 tanyard.| McWhortek's Mills, P. O. 256 
Population 240. The principal oc-jms. from R. and 242 from W. 
cupation ofthe inhabitants is agricul-l WESTON, P. V. and Scat of Jus- 
lure. On the waters of the Little Ka-' flee, 249 ms. from R. and from W., situ- 
nawha, embraced within this neigh- atcd on the West Fork of the Monon- 
borhood, and supplied from this post gahela river, 70 ms. S. E. of Marietta, 
office, are 100 dwelling houses, 5 in Ohio. It contains besides the or- 
houses of public worship, — 4 of which dinary county buildings, 30 dwelling 
are Methodist, 3 common schools, 3 houses, 1 common school, 4 mercan- 
mercantilc stores and 1 tanyard. — 'tile stores, 4 manufactories, 1 manu- 
Population 500. ! factu ring flour mill, i tanyard and 2 

LoRENTz's Store, P. O. 2G1 ms.jsaddlers. Population 167 persons: of 
W. of W. ;i,nd the same distance from' whom 5 are resident attorneys and 2 
Richmond. , regular physicians. 

LowMAN, P. O. 291 ms. from R. County Courts are held on the \si 
and 286 W. of W., situated on the N. 



W, boundary of the county, on the 
main post road leading from Weston 
to Parkersburg, 42 ms. from the for 



Tuesday in every month; — Quarter' 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 



mer, and 37 from the latter place, onjand Chancery are held on the 13/Aof 
Hughes' river, a considerable branch j^/ri^and September, hy ^hvg^ Dva- 
of the Little Kanawha, v.hich after a [can. 
meandering course of more than 100 ' 



LOGAN. 



Logan was established by act of Assembly in the jrear 1824, and falfen 
from a portion of Giles, Kanawha, Tazewell and Cabell. It is bounded N. 
by Kanawha, — N. E. by Fayette, — E. by the Great Flat Top mountain, 
"which separates it from Giles and a part of Tazewell, — S. by Tazewell, W, 
by Tug Fork of Sandy river, Avhich separates it from Floyd county, Ken- 
tucky, and N. W. by Cabell. Its mean length is 66 ms. : mean breadth 
44^; and its area 2,930 sq. ms., extending in lat from 38° 13', to 37° 10' 
N., and in long, from 3° 50', to 5° 22' W. of W. C. This county is prin- 
cipally watered by Guyandotte and Little Coal rivers and their tributaries; 
Guyandotte floAving diagonally from S. E. to N. W. The principal 
branches of Little Coal that waters the N. W. border, are Pond, Beach and 
Laurel Forks, having their rise in Hufts' mountain, — those watering the 
N. E. part ofthe county, are Clear Fork, Big Fork and Rockcastle creeks, 
having their rise in Cherry Pond mountain, which separates Logan from 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MARSHALL. 



387 



Fayette: they empty into the Guyandotte. Elkhorn and Camp creeks 
have their rise in the Great Fiat Top mountain, and after running a con- 
siderable distance through the county, empty into Tug- Fork, which sepa- 
rates it from Tazewell on the S. W. There are several other creeks of 
minor importance. This county is generally mountainous and incapable 
of close settlement. The soil however, is rich, and the climate , . r-,1] adapt- 
ed to raising sheep; and it will some day be perhaps one ofths fiiest woel 
■growing counties in the United States. Tne principal exports are gin- 
sang, cattle and peltry in considerable quantities. It contained at the last 
census 3,681 persons, but since that period a portion has been taken off by 
^he new county of Fayette. It belongs to the 9th judicial circuit and lOtli 
district. Tax'paid in 1833, $184 9.5— in 1834, on lots, m 84— on land, 
$88 83—63 slaves, 815 75—757 horses $45 52—3 studs, $17 00—1 
carryall, $1 00. Total $176 84. No report from school commissioners 
in 1832. Expended in 1833, $196 16. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Ballaudsville, p. O. 349 ms. 
from R. and 390 S. W. by W. of W. 
.situated on Little Coal river about 20 
ms. above the forks. It contains 12 
or 15 houses,2 houses of public wor- 
ship, (1 Methodist and 1 Baptist,) 2 
schools, in which are taught all the 
usual branches of English education, 
2 mercantile stores, 1 grist and saw 
mill; and 1 establishment for clarify- 
ing ginsang, which is one of the sta- 
ple commodities of the village and 
county. Many flat bottomed boats are 
built here, which carry salt from the 
works on the Great Kanawha, and 
various other mechanical operations 
are carried on. The soil of the sur- 
rounding country is fertile, producing 
corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, 
sweet and Irish potatoes in abundanc 
Population about 100 persons; of 
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are re- 
gular physicians. 

Big Creek, P. O. 338 ms. S. W 
of R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., 
situated in theS. E. part of the coun- 
ty, 70 ms. S. S. E. of Charleston on 
the Great Kanawha river. 



LAWNSVILLE, or LOGAN 
C. H. P. V. 324 ms. VV. of R. and 

383 from W., situated in a fertile bot- 
tom in a bend of the river Guyandotte, 
surrounded by mountains abounding 
in stone coal and iron ore. This vil- 
lage was laid olT by act of Assembly 
in 1827, since v»'hich time a handsome 
C. H., clerk's office, and jail have 
been erected of hewn stone, — also 
several dwelling houses, and others 
are now being ex'ected. The other 
improvements are 2 hovises of enter-^ 
tainment, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tan- 
yard, 1 smith shop, 1 tailor shop and 
1 boot and shoe makers establish- 
ment. Besides these there are seve- 
ral house carpenters, and various oth- 
er mechanics. 

County Courts axe held on the 3rd 
Monday in every monrh : — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
oember. 

Judge Summers Isolds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 6//t of May and October: 

Loop, P. O. 266 ms. from R. and 
320 S. W. bv W. of VV. 



MARSHALL. 

Marshall was created at the latter part of the session of the Gfeneral 
Assembly ot 1834-5, whilst this work was in the pre.'^s. It is formed from 



388 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MASON. 



the southern part of Ohio county; bounded N. by Ohio county, E. by 
Pennsylvania, S. by Tyler, and W. by the Ohio river. Its precise limits 
we have no means of ascertaining. The general description, and its towns, 
villages, «fcc. will be given under the head of Ohio county 



MASON. 

Mason was created by Act of Assembly in 1804, and formed from a 
portion of Kanawha county. It is bounded N. by Wood, — E. by Kanaw- 
ha, — S. by Cabell, — and W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from 
Gallia county, in the State of Ohio, Its mean length is 37^ ms. ; mean 
breadth 24^;' and area 904 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 38° 32', to 39^^ 
05' N., and in long, from 4° 22', to 5° 12' W. of W. C. The Ohio river 
bounds this county for 60 ms., and the Great Kanawha flows through its 
southern part in a N. W. direction. The surface is much broken, but 
much of the soil is of good quality. Salt water has Ueen found near the 
Kanawha by sinking wells. Population in 1820,4,868—1630,6,534. It 
belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$814 64— in 1834, on lots, $47 66-— land, $466 24—433 slaves, $108 25 
— 1,917 horses, $11 02—10 studs, $55 00—1 coach, $2 00—5 carryalls, 
$5 00. Total $799 17. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$283 41— in 1833, $223 45. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Buffalo, P. O. 343 ms. from R. 
and 380 from W., situated in the S. 
E. part of the county, on the E. bank 
of the Kanawha river, about 21 ms. 
from its confluence with the Ohio, 
and 50 ms. S. E. of Point Pleasant. 
It contains several dwelling houses, 
1 Methodist house of worship, 1 mer- 
cantile store and 1 warehouse. It is 
known as a public landing, and a 
place of some trade. There is a pa- 
tent ferry established on the river, onj 
the pendulum and lee board system. 
Its situation is pleasant and healthy, 
and eligible on several accounts. The 
surrounding country is thickly set- 
tled, and the business of the neighbor- 
hood for the distance of 10 or 15 ms. 
is done at this place. 

Hereford'.s, P. O. 360 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 390 W. of W. 

Lane's, P. O. 366 ms. both from 
W. and R. 

POINT PLEASANT, P. V. and 



Seat of Justice, 358 ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 358 S. W. of W., situ- 
ated on the point above the junction 
of the Ohio and Great Kanawha ri- 
vers, in lat. 38° 50', and long. 5° 7' 
W. of W. C. It contains besides the 
ordinary county buildings, 40 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 common school, 6 mer- 
cantile stores, 1 extensive steam ma- 
nufacturing flovir mill, 1 steam saw 
mill, 2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 2 black- 
smith shops, and 2 cabinet makers. 
Population 240 persons; of whom 2 
are resident attorneys, and 2 regular 
physicians. 

Comiiy Coiirts are held on the \st 
Monday, in every month: — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Judge Summers holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 16^// of April, and Septem- 
ber 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONONGALIA. 389 

MONONGALIA. 

Monongalia was established by act of Assembly in the year 1776, and 
formed from a portion of the District of West Augusta. It is bounded N. 
by Green and Fayette counties of Pa. — E. by Preston, — S. E. by Ran- 
dolph, — S. by Harrison, — and W. by Tyler. Its mean length is 33^ miles, 
mean breadth 21 1; and area 721 square miles. It extends m lat. from 39° 
17' to 39° 42' N. and in long, from 2° 39' to 3° 25' W. of W. C. The 
face of the country is generally mountainous and hilly ; one-third of the ter- 
ritory of the county, lying upon what is called in this country the "Laurel 
Hill," it being the last western regular ridge of the Alleghanies; the other 
two-thirds, or western part of the countj^ being intersected by hills and 
rallies. 

Notwithstanding the mountainou.'^ness of the country, the soil is very 
fertile; producing good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables common 
to this latitude. And it is remarkably well timbered, both as to variety 
and size. 

The rivers watering this county, are the Monongaliela, Cheat, West Fork 
and Tygart's Valley. The Monongahela is formed by the junction (a few 
miles below the dividing line between Monongalia and Harrison counties) 
of the West Fork and Tygart's Valley rivers. It thence flows in a northern 
direction, through the middle of the county; and passes out at the Pennsyl- 
vania line, about two miles above the mouth of Cheat river. It is naviga- 
ble from its head, in time of freshets, for flat-boats of the largest size. And 
steam-boats have frequently ascended from Pittsburg to Morgantown, ten 
miles above the mouth of Cheat. From Pittsburg to Morgantown, the navi- 
gation of this river is very easy for steam and flat-boats, and unobstructed, 
except by low water; and is becoming very considerable. From Morgan- 
town upwards the navigation is more difficult, and can only be effected in 
times of freshets. The West Fork, which flows but about three miles 
through this county, is a considerable stream, and is navigable for flat-boats 
in time of freshets, as high as Clarksburg in Harrison county. The Ty- 
gart's Valley although a considerable stream, is only navigable about ten 
miles ; it being obstructed by very high falls. It is part of the dividing line 
between this county and Harrison, and Randolph. Cheat river has its 
source near that of Tygart's Valley; and after flowing a northwestern di- 
rection, through Randolph, Preston and this county, empties into the Mo-' 
nongahela, two miles below the Pennsylvania line. Although it is a con- 
siderable stream, affording nearly as much water as the Monongahela, it ie 
only navigable as high as Jackson's Iron Works, a distance of eight or ten 
miles. 

The principal creeks in this county, are Decker's, Whiteday, Prickett's 
and Threefork creeks, which empty into the Monongahela on the east side, 
and Dunkard, Indian, Pawpaw and BufTaloe creeks, which empty in on the 
west side of said river. They all afford many excellent seats for water power-, 
several of which are occupied. 

The principal exports of this county, are stock, (horses, cattle, hogs and 
sheep,) iron, lumber and some flour. There are three forges, and three 
furnaces (and another being erected) in this county; which manufacture 
very large quantities of iron annually. There is also one nail factory, and 
several good merchant flour mills. Jackson's Iron Works, on Cheat river, 
are considered the most valuable in Western Virginia, or perhaps in the 



$9d 



WESTERN VJRO INI A— MONONGALIA. 



western country. There has lately been a .salt-well 8uiik in this county, 
which proinise.s well. 

On the road leading from Chukshurg and Beverly, 5 miles from Morgan- 
town, on the plantation of Henry IlaniiUon, there is a large flat rock about 
150 feet long, and 50 Avide, with numerous engravings of animals, well exe- 
cuted — Such as panthers of full size, — buffaloe tracks, — horse tracks, deer 
tracks, turkey tracks, eels, fish, women as large as life, human tracks, otters, 
beavers, snakes, crows, eagles, wild cats, foxes, wolves, racoons, opossums, 
bears, elks, &.c. &c. This is probably one of the most extensive specimens 
of the arts of the aborigines, to be found in our country. 

The Rai'C/i^s Rock is also worthy of notice. — It is situated on Boothe's 
creek, about oh miles south of Morgantown, and half a mile from the en- 
trance of the creek into the Monongahela river. In this rock there are 
some strata of coal and of iron; and except in these strata the whole rock 
is perforated like a pigeon box. This rock is 150 feet high, 40 feet thick at 
its base and 20 at its top. Population in 1820, 11,060 — in 1830, 14,056. 
It belongs to the 20th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
Sl,402 33— in 1834, on lots, $130 46— on land, $775 54—184 slaves, 
$46 00—5417 horses, $325 02—36 studs, $102 00— 3 coaches, $6 00— 
5 carryalls, $5 00—3 gigs, $1 50. Total, $1392 52.— Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $887 15— in 1833, $870 92. 

TOWNS, VILLAGE.g, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Barns' Mills, P. O. 296 ms. from 
R. and 233 N. W. by W. of W. C, 
situated in the western part of the 
county. 

Blacksville, p. O. 241 ms. from 
R. and 243 N. W. of W., shuated 20 
miles N. W. of Morgantown, at the 
junction of Robert's Run and Dun- 
kard creek, 50 ms. from its mouth. 
This creek empties into the Monon- 
gahela river. This village is locat- 
ed immediately on the line dividing 
the states of Virginia and Pennsyl- 
vania, a part of Blacksville being in 
the counties of Monongalia, Va. and 
a part in Green co. Pa. It contains 
11 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, 1 common school, 1 temper- 
ance society, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 
and 2 blacksmith shops. Diuikard 
creek is navigable to this place, and 
boat building is carried on to some 
extent. The face of the surrounding 
country is uneven, but very fertile, 
producing wheat, rye, corn; oats and 
buckwheat in abundance. -j Timber 
is plenty, of good quality and in great 



variety. Population 52, including 1 
physician. 

IDuNKARD Creek, P. O. 247 ms. 
N. W. by W. of W. and 245 from 
R., situated in the N. W. part of the 
county, 22 ms. N. W. by W. of Mor- 
gantown 

Granville, P. V. 295 ms. from 
R. and 217 N. W. by W. of W., 
situated on Dunkard creek near the 
southern border of Green co. Pa., 
and on the W. side of the Monon- 
galia river, 2 ms. below Morgantown. 
It contains 21 dwelling houses, 1 
house of public worship free for all 
denominations, 1 common school, 3 
mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 ware- 
houses, 1 saddler, 1 smith shop, 2 
cabinet makers, 2 boot and shoe fac- 
tories, 1 cooper and 1 chair maker. 
Population, white males 44, females 
56 — colored 10 — total 110 — and 1 
resident physician. 

King's Fkrry, P. O. 217 ms. N. 
W. by W. of W. and 289 from R. 

Mount Lineus, P. O. 210 ms, 
N. W. bv W. of W. and 203 from R. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONOINGALIA. 



Bn 



MiddleTown, or Polsley's; MuRGANTOWN, P. V. and 



Mills, P. O. 294 ms. from R. and 
285 N. W. by W. of VV. Middle- 
town was established by act of As- 
sembly January 19th, 1820. It is 



seat of justice, 293 ras. from R. and 
215 N.'W. by W. of W. in lat. 39° 
40' N. and long-. 2° 50' W. of W. 
C, situated on an elevated level, on 



now a flourishing and health}^ village, the right bank of the Monongahela, 
pleasantly situated on the westbankio5 miles below and N. N. E. of 
of the Monongahela, one and a half Clarksburg, and about 60 south of 
miles below the junction of Tygart's' Pittsburg-, Pa. Morganlown is a 
Valley, and West Fork rivers, where' flourishing and Avealthy vilUige, hold- 
they unite and form the Monongahela; ing out incalculable advantages to the 
river, 22 ms. N. of Clarksburg, IS manufacturer and mechanic. Its 
S. of Morgantown, 90 S. of Pitts-! healthy situation on the bank of the 
burg, 50 S. of Brownsville, Pa., and' Monongahela river, — the various 
52 ms. E. of the mouth of Fisliing productions of the country by which 



creek, and its confluence with the 
Ohio river. It contains 30 dwelling 
houses, 2 houses of public worship, 



it is surrounded, — -the inexhaustible 
coal mines which abound in almost 
eA-ery hill, and the rich and innumer- 



(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) liable iron banks which are every- 
colonization society, 1 tract, 1 tern- i where to be found in this vicinity are 
perance, and 1 humane mission soci-iperhap.'; not to be surpassed in West- 
ety, and 1 common school, 4 mercan-!ern Virginia. Besides the ordinary 
tile stores, 1 distillery, 2 taverns, 1 county buildings, it contains 120 
pottery, 3 cabinet makers, 1 chair dwelling houses, 2 houses of public 
maker, 1 Avheelwright, 1 wagon worship, (1 Methodist and 1 Presby- 
maker, 1 smith shop, 1 gun smith, 2 terian,) and 1 female academy called 
boot and shoe factories, 1 saddle and | tlie "Monongalia Academy," com- 
harness maker, 1 brick maker, 2 hat- prising 2 departments — Classical and 
ter's shops, 2 saw and 2 grist mills.; Preparatory. Its standing fund at 
In the immediate vicinity are 2 card-, interest is $10,000,* and it averages 
ing and fulling mills, 4 saw mills,! 40 pupils, — size of building 70 feet 
and 2 manufacturing flour mills, front, 40 feet deep, 2^ stories high, a 
The face of the country is somcwhal! handsome and spacious brick build- 
hilly, in parts very miu^h broken.; . 

The soil is generally of a rich loamy' *Tlie Tiustees of the Monongalia 
clay, producing all" the staples com-| ^'^^^^my were mcorporated by the legis- 
_ •'^^. ., =■ • 1 11 1 ^ ,, lature jn IS06. In 1827 or 8 the legisla- 

mon m the middle and northern ,„,^ ^.,^3^^ ^,^ ^..^ j,,„j,o,i,i„^ ,,ia'^,,,„. 

states — well adapted to grazing and tees to raise S10,000 by lottery for the 
raising of cattle, horses, hogs, &.c.,l 'benefit of this Academy. This sum was 
large numbers of which are raised ^'^i.^^^'^^"^ ^^o"t one-half of it _cxpended 



for the eastern markets. This sec- 
tion of country holds out innumera- 
ble advantao-es for the establishment 



in building a large and commodious lu'ick 
building. The balance was put out at in- 
terest for the benefit of the academy. In 
1830 the Legislature passed another act, 



of manufactories. The forests abound! ,^llo;^'i"3' H^e irustees to raise 5ii-20,000 niore 
• .1 .1 £• ^ .• 1 J ,1 ,1 ' bv lottery lor the same purpose. The 

with the finest timber, and the earth, g^j^gj^g 1,^^ been .sold, and it Ls expected 
is stored with Iron ore, and the bestjthe whole amount of the above sum of 
stone coal. Large quantities of thej $20,000 will be raised in a few years; 
latter are shipped^ from this place for ?"hich added to the balance left of the 
4i r»-.. u 1 r^- • .• 1 . iir.st lottery, will make an endowment 

the Pitt.burg and Cmcmnati market,' „fr„ient to render iLe Monongalia 
and frequently to New Orleans. Academy a free school. It is nnw one of 
Population 200 persons; of whom 2 'h'' cheapest an l best eonductcd .vmina- 
are physicians. iries of the kind in the United States. 



392 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



ing-, pleasantly situated; — 1 private 
school (female,) in which are taughti 
the languages, painting, drawing, &cc.,\ 
2 temperance societies, (1 male and 1 
female,) 1 Sunday school, 1 bible and 

1 colonization society, I poor asylum, 
7 mercantile stores, 1 apothecary 
shop, 2 houses of entertainment, 2 
manufacturing flour mills, 1 fulling 
and dying establishment, 1 windmill 
manufactory, and 1 printing office 
from which is issued a weekly paper, 

2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 4 boot and 
shoe factories, 3 wheelwrights, and 
chair makers, 5 cabinet makers, 1 
copper and tin plate worker, I red 
and stone ware manufactory, 4 tailor 
shops, 3 hat manufactories, 2 gun 
smiths, 1 wagon m.akcr, 3 smith 
shops, and 1 plough manufactory. 
The United States mail passes thro' 
this village 3 times a week. Popu- 
lation 650 persons; of whom four arc 
resident attorneys, and three regular 
physicians. The Monongahela river 
is navigable for small steam boats. 



(and sometimes those ot a larger size) 
for six months in the year to this 
place; and if the contemplated im- 
provement goes into operation of 
cleansing the river, and establish- 
ing slack water navigation, by dams 
and locks, this town and county will 
at no distant day rank among the 
most flourishing and prosperous in 
Virginia. 

Countij Courts are held on the ith 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Fry holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 8<A of April and ScjHeviber. 

Palatine Hill, P. O. 289 ms. 
from R. and 211 from W. 

Smithfield, a small village 10 
miles from Morgantown, on the road 
to Clarksburg. 

White Day, P. O. 283 ms. from 
R. and 205 S. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the eastern part of the county, 
10 ms. E. of Morgantown. 



MONROE. 

Monroe was created by act of Assembly in the year 1799, from a por- 
tion of Greenbrier. It is bounded N. by Greenbrier, — N. E. by Allegha- 
ny, — E. by Botletourt, — S. by Giles, and W. by New river, which on that 
side separates it from Giles. Its mean length is 31 ms ; mean breadth 
18^; and area 614 sq. m-S., extending from 37° 22', to 37° 45' N. lat., and 
in long, from 3° lb', to 3° 54' W. of W. C. The general declivity of this 
county is westward from the summit of the Alleghany mountain. Green- 
brier river crosses the northwestern angle of the county, and unites with 
New river to form the Great Kanawha, at the point at which Giles, Lo- 
gan, Greenbrier and Monroe all meet. The mouth of Greenbrier river 
has been found by actual admeasurement, to be 1,333 ft. above the level of 
the ocean, and the county of Monroe being still higher and declining to 
this point, is probably from 1,400, to 1,700 or 1,800 ft. above the ocean. 
Population in 1820, 6,620, 1830, 7,798. It belongs to the 16th judicial 
circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,123 94 — in 1834, on lots, 
§56 85— land. $601 30—424 slaves, $106 00—3,640 horses, $218 40— 
21 studs, $173 00—11 coaches, $29 50—15 carryalls, $15 00— 7 gigs, 
$3 60. Total $1,280 69. Expended in educating poor childicn m 1832, 
8395 40— in 1833, $232 21. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



39S 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Gwinn's Mill, P. O. 222 ms. fiom 
H. and 277 S. W. by W. of W. 

New River, P. O. 237 ms. from 
R and 29G S. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the western part of the county, 
26 ms. westward of Union, the Coun- 
ty Seat, on the margin of New river, 
10 ms. above, the month of Greenbrier 
river, and 5 below Indian creek, on 
the main post road leading- from Giles' 
C H. to Kanawha Suit Works. — 
Though called a village it is simply 
a post oflice. The fiice of the sur- 
rounding country is mounlainoUvS, the 
bottoms are narrow, but very fertile, 
producing in abundance, wheat, rye, 
Indian corn, oats, hemp, flax and 
garden stufTs. 7'he principal -staples 
are peltry, hemp and Indian corn: for] 
the latter a ready market is found atj 
all seasons at the Red Sulphur| 
Springs, distant 10 ms. Emigration! 
to this neighborhood within the lasli 
icw years, has been considerable. 

Petkrstown, p. O. 249 ms. from! 
R. and 294 S. W. by W. of- W. This! 
village Avas settled, some 40 years] 
since by Christian Peters, from whOnti 
it derives its name, and established as 
a towa by act of Assembly in Janua-! 
ry ^th, 1804. It is situated on a! 
stream called Rich creek, which takesi 
its rise in Peters' mountain, about 7i 
ms. above, and passing through the: 
town, discharges its waters, 2 ms. be-; 
Jow into New river, at the head of[ 
the Great Kanawha, affording one of' 
the most advantageous sites for water 
power in western Virginia. It con- 
tains 20 neat dwelling houses, 1 com- 
mon school, I saw mill, 1 grist mill, 
and a wool carding machine, 1 mer- 
cantile store, 3 tanj^ards, 1 saddler, 1 
blacksmith, 1 gun smith, 1 tailor and 
I Avagon maker. Surrounded by a 
Avild and rom.antic country, abounding 
Avith cA'cry description of game; the 
pursuit ot Avhich, constitutes the prin- 
cipal sport of the inhabitants. 

Red Sulphur Springs, P V. 240 
ms. from R. and 282 from W. 
50 



These celebrated Avaters are situated 
in lat. 37° 30' 25" N., long. 3° 14^ 
50' W. from Washington. They are 
38 ms. from the White Sulphur, the 
same distance from the Sweet Springs, 
and 16 ms. from the Salt Sulphur. 
The valley in which they rise is 
formed by two mountain's, running 
from N. E. to S. W. They receive 
their name from a deposite of a rich 
crimson color. This deposite rests on 
another of white, and is itself of a 
gelatinous consistence. The AA'ater 
issues from A'arious fi.ssures, in a stra- 
tum of soft slate stone, Avithin a space 
of about 24 by 8 ft. Heretofore, they 
were but partially collected, three- 
fourths having been pcrmilled to 
waste; but the present proprietor hav 
ing, in the autumn of 1833, opened 
the native stone, and obtained a vast 
increase in the quantity, has collected 
them in two fountains of Avhitc mar- 
ble. The temperature of the water 
is preceisely 54 deg. of Fahr. ; it is 
peculiarly pleasant, though so strong- 
ly imj)regnated Avithsulpliuretled hy- 
drogen. Hundreds of persons noAV 
living can bear testimony to its extra- 
ordinary efTecls in the cure of pulmo- 
nary disease: it is therefore superflu- 
ous to ofFer farther evidence of its A-a- 
lue in checking that frightful enemy 
of mankind. We may refer the read- 
er to the Avork of Dr. Bell on baths 
and mineral Avaters, and to a pam- 
phlet lately published on " Co /t.sv/tfip- 
iioa and the Red Sulphur AA'aters," bj'- 
Dr. Huntt, a distinguished physician 
of Washington City. Invalids are 
earnestly recommended to read this 
last little Avork.* It remains that Ave 



* A short tnite before the illness of the 
late Mr. Wirt, the proprietor receiA^ed 
from him a letter respecting tliese A\'aters, 
and the pamphlet above uieiUioued, which 
we here beg leave to subjoin. 

Waskingtoii, Feb. 8, 1834. 
Dkar SlH, — 

In ansAver to yoar letter of the 29th ult. 
I hHA'e inneh pleasure in .statins, that I 
'was highly sratilied by my pjsciii'aon to 



394 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



should notice its effects in other dis- 
eases, and here we must express our 
astonishment, that physicians have 
turned to so little account the know- 
ledge of its powers in pulmonary com- 
plaints, and in the reduction ol' arte- 
rial action. There can be little doubt 
that the remarkable influence it exerts 
in pulmonary compktints is mainly 
dependant on its sedative quality, and 
it seems to us strange how it has been 
overlooked by medical men, that so 
important a curative principle, could 
not have been limited to one disease. 
The writer hazards the opinion 
that it will be found no less efficica- 
cious, in calming nervous irritability, 
than in reducing arterial action. He 
has experienced this effect in his own 
person, and has witnessed it in others. 
One of the most remarkable cases of 
Neuralgia we have ever witnessed 
was that of Henry Brown, esq. of 
Lynchburg. He had been afiiicted 
many years in an extraordinary de- 
gree, had visited Europe, consulted 
the most eminent physicians, tried all 
the other mineral waters in this re- 
gion, but with little benefit. Last 
August he visitted these Springs, and 
Avas so much pleased with their ef- 



That these waters are most singu- 
larly efficacious in nterine diseases, 
and in restoring the health of delicate 
females is a fact too well established, 
to admit of controversy, and one which 
we deem it peculiarly important 
should be known, as these are proba- 
bly the only mineral waters in Vir- 
ginia that are suited to such cases. 

The writer is of opinion, that the 
tonic property of these waters is co7i- 
seqvent on their sedative property. — 
They do not belong to the ordinary 
class of tonics; they do indeed, invig- 
orate the stomach in a remarkable 
manner — a fact which is clearly pro- 
ved by the rapid increase of weight, 
many persons gaining from one to two 
pounds a day for several successive 
days; but whilst they effect this, they 
are most usually producing one or 
two evacuations a day, and acting free- 
ly on the kidneys and skin. From 
what has been said, it may be per- 
ceived that we believe the water to be 
directly sedative, indirectly tonic, al- 
terative, diuretic and diaphoretic. 

It has been found efficacious in all 
forms of consumption, scrofula, jaun- 
dice and other bilious affections, chro- 
nic dysentery and diarrhea, dyspep- 



fects, that he remained until the 1st of sia, diseases of the uterus, chronic 



January 

He regretted not having visited the 
Red Sulphur some years sooner, and 
believed, if he had, that in all proba- 
bility, he would have been entirely 
restored to health. 



the Red Sulphur Spring.s last .season. It 
was my first visit to that place, and I was 
so much pleased with the water, the enter- 
tainment and the scenery, that my stay 
was protracted, with enjoyment, for nearly 
three weeks. 

I send you a pamphlet just published in 
this citj, on the virtues of these waters, by 
which you will see that they are rising- in- 
to deserved celebrity. The author Doctor 
Huntt is a dutingiiished physician here 
whose opinions are entitled to the ntmosl 
respect and confidence, and I hope he will 
be instrumental in extending the mowlcdgc 
of these valuable waters. 

With every wish fur your success, I re- 
mained dear sir, very respectfully and tru- 
ly, yours, WiVl. WIRT. 



rheumatism and gout, dropsy, gravel, 
neuralgia, tremor, syphilis, scurvy, 
erysipelas, tetter, ring-worm and itch; 
and it has long been celebrated as a 
vermifuge. That there are many 
other diseases, to which its medicinal 
properties are applicable, there can be 
little doubt, and we can state one fact 
highly important, which is, that we 
have never known it to do a poshive 
injury. If the patient has gone away 
in a worse condition, it is because the 
disease had progressed so far as to be 
incurable, or the failure may be clear- 
ly traced to some imprudence on his 
own part. It is a lamentable fact that 
many of the persons who visit the 
Virginia Mineral Springs are alto- 
gether ignorant of their properties, 
and consequently are tempted to make 
experiments on themselves. Some 



WESTERN VIRGINIA—MONROE 



3&5 



tliink that the greatest good is to be 
derived from the greatest quantity, 
and therefore use them immoderately. 
Others think that, as charity hides a 
multitude of sins; so the water justi- 
fies a multitude of indulgencies. They 
entirely lose sight of the object of 
which they were in pursuit, after 
having made some progress towards 
its attainment; and if, after indulging 
their appetites, or being guilty of 



larly the use of opium. The latter 
interferes very mucli Avith the action 
of the water. It may be useful at the 
commencent, to prepare the system 
by two or three blue pills, and when 
the water becomes altogether diureticv 
it will be proper to turn it on the bow- 
els, which may be done by a little ep- 
som salts or some other simple me- 
dicine. When persons laboring un- 
der diarrhea use the water ii some- 



some other imprudence, they relapse itimes happens, that the evacuations 
to their former condition, they imme-!become more frequent and acrid, for 
diately blame the water. The writer 'two or three days. 
has had some experience in the use of! Patients in this situation sometimes 
the Red Sulphur water, and does not think that the water is doing them in- 
hesitate to say, that in his opinion, itsijury, when, in fact, it is expelling the 



efficacy is impeded hy all stimulants 
Ardent spirits, strong coftee, strong 
tea, meat diet, especially at night, 
should be avoided. The patient 
should live on a strictly vegetable 
diet. Milk, maple molasses, cold 
bread, buckwheat cakes, rice, rye 
mush, bread-pudding, stewed peaches 
and various other articles of a similar 
character are best suited to the action 
of the water. These combined with 
its judicious use, moderate exercise, 
and a calm mind, aftbrd the best pros- 
pect of a cure. We are of opinion 
that most persons should begin with 
six or eight tumblers a day, and gra- 
dually increase to twelve. We be- 
lieve this quantity to be sufficient, ex- 
cept where it is necessary to act more 
immediately on the kidneys. In this 
case we would advise a light supper, 
and three tumblers of water after get- 
ting into bed. Walking exercise is 
of vast importance in making the wa- 
ter alterative. We would therefore 



exciting cause. To such persons we 
recommend perseverance and caution 
in diet. There is a singular effect 
produced by this water Vv-hich we 
have never knovvm produced by any 
other mineral water. About the 10th 
day, usually, but sometimes much 
earlier, the patient is taken with a 
sensation of fullness in the head; he 
feels indolent and sleepy, and we 
have even known the pulse to get be- 
low the natural standard. We have 
nevex seen this symptom productive 
of any injury; on the contrary expe- 
rience has proved that it is an uner- 
ring omen of amendment. Whenev- 
er we hear of this symptom we have 
strong hopes, that the patient is in a 
fair way of recovering his health, if 
he will do justice to himself by perse- 
verance and prudence. Visiters to 
these waters frequently expect mira- 
cles. They suppose that chronic dis- 
eases of several years standing should 
be eradicated in a fev/ days. We 



strongly recommend early rising, and i have, indeed, sometimes seen wonder- 



as much exercise as can be taken 
without fatigue. There is frequently 
a fog in the morning, in these moun- 
tain regions, but nothing is to be ap- 
prehended from it. It is in fact, al- 
most invariably, the forerunner of a 
fine day. It is highly important to 
invalids to lay aside the use of all me 



ful changes take place in a kw days, 
but if a man laboring under an obsti- 
nate disease desire permanent benefit, 
he must give the water time to expel 
from his system every vestige of the 
exciting cause. 

Improvements. 
The proprietor of this property 



dicines if possible, but more particu- came into possession on the 1st of 



39G 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



October, 1832. He has ever since 
been busily cnj^aged in erecting 
buildings and making other improve- 
ments for the accommodation of visi- 
tors. In addition to the spacious ho- 
tel erected last year, he is now erect- 
ing a range of one story buildings 
198 by 24 ft., and a two story build- 
ing with a double portico, 112 by 30 
ft. All the old cabins will be fitted 
up in a more comfortable manner. 
Cold and warm baths will be provid- 
ed. Extensive stables and carriage 
houses are erected and every thing 
liberally provided which can promote 
the comfort of the guests. The ac- 
commodation will be ample for 250 
persons. The establishment is con- 
ducted by Major Wm. Vass. A tri- 
weekly line of stages is now running 
through this place to Newbern in 
Montgomery county, where it con- 
nects with the southwestern line. 
The roads in this neighborhood arc 
gfreatly improved, and two companies 
are incorporated to make a turnpike 
road from the White Sulphur, to this 
place, by way of the Salt Sulphur. 
It is expected that the mail will ar- 
rive here daily, next season, in stages. 
Red Sulphur Stmiruiry. — This In- 
stitution was opened on the 15th 
April last. The studies at present 
pursued are the Ancient Languages 
and Mathematics. The number of 
scholars is limited to thirty. When 
that number is engaged a teacher of 
Modern Languages will be employed. 
The advantages possessed by this 
Institution will readily suggest them- 
selves to the minds of those who have 
boys to educate. It has the undivid- 
ed attention of Wm Burke as prin- 
cipal, and James Macauly as assis- 
tant. 

Salt Sulphur Springs, P. O. 
210 ms. from R. and 270 from W. 
The mineral waters known by the 
name of the Salt Sulphur Springs, 
rise in Western Virginia, in about 
37^° N. lat. and 5° long. W. of Phi- 
ladelphia — are distant 25 miles from 



the White Sulphur, 22 from the Swev-t 
Springs, IG from the Red Sulphur, 
and GO from the Hot and Warm 
Springs. — It is generally acknowledg- 
ed, that this quarter of the country 
has its full share ef medicinal waters, 
and in greater variety than any other 
country of the same extent. The cli- 
mate, too, during the warmer months, 
is the best in North America. The 
thermometer in the months of June, 
July and August, ranges in the day 



lime from 65° to 80°, and the nights 
are so refreshingly cool as to permit 
the delicate to sleep under one, two 
and three blankets. To judge from 
one's feelings, the barometer would 
stand very low in this favored country, 
and show an uncommonly light air, 
but they are scarce in this portion ol 
the state, and there happens to be none 
at the Salt Sulphur Springs at this 
time. Here, under the blessings of 
providence, "the blind, the lame and 
the halt" may venture to hope for re- 
lief The fine, refreshing climate, the 
cheerful company, passing and repass- 
ing from spring to spring — and such 
a variety of medicinal waters, as the 
world no where else affords — added 
to the novelty of mountain scenery, it 
seems to aflbrd sufficient inducement 
to entice both the young and old, — 
the robust, to seek new pleasures, and 
the infirm man, bowed down by dis- 
ease, and Aveary of life, to alleviate 
his sufferings, and endeavor to repair 
his shattered constitution. The con- 
trast between winter and summer in 
this region, is, as may be supposed, 
very great. During the cold months, 
as the country is thinly inhabited, all 
appears desolate and dreary — the hills 
are covered with snoAv, and the streams 
with ice — as soon, though, as the sea- 
son well justifies it, the prospect be- 
comes more inviting. — About the lat- 
ter part of May, and the first of June, 
the poor victims of disease, from north 
and south, east and west, are seen in 
these places to try the healing powers 
of thece natural medicines. Soon af- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



3QZ 



ter, the throng is much incrcasnl byllvind need be apprehondod. — On an 



daily arrivals of gay and fashioiialjle 
people, looking for amusement or a 
more genial summer climate than the 
one they reside in. This time of ani- 
mation continues until the middle of 
September, when the visitors mostly 
leave for their homes. — A few, how- 
ev^er, frequently remain much later — 
these, though, are real sufferers, who 
seem unwilling to leave as long as 
there is any thing to hope for. There 
are two fountains at the Salt Sulphur, 
each giving out a very different wa- 
ter. — The first one u.sed is distinguish- 
ed as the Salt Sulphur, and is orna- 
mented with an appropriate building 
resting on twelve large pillars. — The 
other spring rises about 6U0 yards up 
the ravine, and was discovered about 
a year since in an attempt to convey 
some sulphur water in pipes to a bath 
liouse. — The laborer in blowing a 
rock to afford a way for the pipes, 
opened the spring to his great alarm, 
as he thought he had struck on the 
source of the spring from which he 
was conducting the water. The tern 
perature of the two springs is the same 
at all seasons of the year (50° flih'r,) 
and both of them contain a portion of 
sulphuretted hydrogen. — The Salt 



examination of the country around 
the waters, the limestone will be found 
fre([uently to contain magnesia — the 
formations, too, are all secondary. — 
From this circumstance, in all proba- 
bility, these waters contain magnesia 
and the newly discovered mineral call- 
ed sodine. so generally found in ma- 
rine productions. — The proprietors of 
these waters have themselves a high 
confidence in them and are becoming 
more and more solicitous for a correct 
analasis of them, which will secure 
to them their entire value and nothing 
more. 

This spring is celebrated among all 
the visiters to the springs for the ex- 
cellence of the accommodations, and 
the polite and obliging dispositions of 
tiie proprietors. These buildings are 
very extensive, and still increasing — 
in the season of 1835, they will pro- 
bably be able to accommodate 300 
persons. 

Sweet Spuings, P. O. 204 ms. 
W. of R. and 263 S. W. by W. of 
W. This most ancient of any of the 
w'atering places in Va., is situated in 
the county of Monroe, in a fertile 
valley of the same name. They are 
distant 29 ms. from Fincastle, 22 from 



Sulphur, too, has soda, it is believed,! the Salt Sulphur, 37 from the Red, 
inanuncombinedstate — This perhaps and 18 from the White Sulphur 
is the mineral that acts so happily a? Springs. The spring, which is so 



a corrective of acid and the oily eruc- 
tation that attends a diseased stomach. 
The different waters give a copious 
precipitate by first adding to them 
salt of iron, and then precipitating it 
with carburet of potass — of course the 
precipitate has been consid^'red a pre- 
cipitate of iron. — If any reliance can be 
placed on this indication, the newly 
discovered fountain will have the rare 
property of reducing a quick pulse as 
some few other waters are said to do. 
The more active ingredients in the 
Salt Sulphur might interfere with those 
invalids who would wish to reduce a 
quick circulation, but with the newly 
discovered spring, no difficulty of the 



copious, as to turn a mill at the dis- 
tance of 200 yards from the source, 
rises at the lower end of a small hol- 
low or valley, from which the ground 
gradually swells on either side. The 
houses and cabins, of which a large 
number have been erected within a 
year or two, are sufficient to accom- 
date from 250 to 300 persons. By 
far the greater number of these ca- 
bins are built in rows adjoining each 
other, though some are delightfully 
situated among the groves of oak 
trees. There are two perennial rivu- 
lets from the mountains, meandering 
through the dale, which not only adds 
materially to the comfort ot the visi- 



3»8 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



ters and the cleanliness of the place, 
but refreshes, enlivens and beautifies 
the surrounding prospect. Nature 
indeed has not been sparing in em- 
bellishing with her choicest beauties 
this enchanting spot. Every object 
that can gratify the eye or please the 
fancy is herepourtrayed in its bright- 
est colors. The wild scenery of the 
mountains with the gentle landscapes, 
the shady groves and arbors, care- 
lessl}'' scattered over this delightful 
scene, invite the young, and the gay, 
and the admirers of nature to con- 
template her under these charming 
and picturesque aspects. 

The spirit of public improvement 
which has recently so difl'used itself 
among the people of Western Vir- 
ginia, has greatly facilitated the 
means of access and conveyance to 
the different watering places. There 
is a daily line of stages in the summer 
running from Fincastle to the Sweet 
Springs and also from the Salt and 
White Sulphur. The fine roads, de- 
lightful climate and beautiful scenery 
which is here met with, is a sufficient 
inducement aside from other consid- 
erations, to the low landers for an an- 
nual ramble to the mountains. 

The following description of the 
medicinal properties of the Sweet 
Spring waters is taken from Dr. Bell 
on Baths and Mineral waters. "The 
water of the spring rises into a large 
cylindrical reservoir, from opposite 
sides of which it flows out by small 
pipes: one conveying water to the 
bath for the men, the other to that for 
the ladies. The men's bath is of a 
quadrangular form surrounded by a 
wall, and open at the top, it is of tol- 
erable extent and clear, the bottom 
being of gravel and the water con- 
stantly flowing in and as constantly 
passing out, after it reaches a certain 
height. The temperature of the 
Spring 73° fahr., the same as that 
which in England, by a strange blun- 
der, is called Bristol Hot Wells 
There is a considerable resemblance 



between the two in other respects as 
well in the abundant evolution of 
carbonic acid gas as in the earthy and 
saline matters held in solution. In 
the Virginia Spring however iron has 
been detected, whereas the Bristol 
Hot Wells has none in its composi- 
tion. If we can rely on the rather 
crude analysis of Bouelle, one quart 
of the water of the Sweet Spring con- 
tains — 
Saline substances in 

general, 12 to 15 grains. 
Earthy substances, 18 to 24 " 
Iron ' ^ to 1 

The saline .substances are sulphate 
of magnesia, muriate of soda, and 
muriate of line with a little sulphate 
of lime. The earthy substances con- 
sisted of sulphate of lime, a small 
portion of carbonates of magnesia 
and lime, Avith a small portion of sili- 
cious earth. The deposition of cal- 
carious matter from the waters as they 
flow down the meadows is so great 
as to form a kind of drain of consi- 
derable height and thickness at about 
a mile on the road to the White Sul- 
phur Springs. 

Few mineral waters have acquired 
such fashionable and well merited 
celebrity as the Sweet Springs. The 
name is calculated to convey errone- 
ous impressions of their taste, which 
is like a solution of a small quantity 
of a calcareous or magnesian carbo- 
nate. The excess of carbonic acid 
gives, however, the waters a brisk- 
ness, productive of a very different 
effect on the palate from what an im- 
perfect mixture of the earth's would 
produce. The first effects of this 
water due to its temperature and gase- 
ous contents, when drunk, are a feel- 
ing of warmth at the stomach, with a 
sensation of fulness at the head and 
some giddiness. Taken at stated in- 
tervals in moderate quantity, it will 
produce a moisture on the skin and 
increase the flow of urine. It the 
i stomach be in a good state it gives 
'additional appetite and imparts fresh 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 



399 



vigor to the system. The Sweet 
Spring water is serviceable in the A'a- 
rieties of dyspepsia accompanied by 
gastrodynia or spasm, with pains oc- 
curring at irregular intervals and 
heart burn — when the extremities are 
cold and the skin torpid. In secon- 
dary debility of the digestive canal, 
from the exhausting heat of summer,- 
or in chronic diarrhea and dysentery 
without fever or not sustained by he- 
patic inflammation, much good will 
be produced by the internal use of 
these waters. 

If much gastric irritation or evi- 
dent phlogosis of the liver be present 
Avith a parched skin and other phe- 
nomena of fever: it will be better to 
premise one or two small bleedings, 
followed by the use of a blue pill at 
night, and a tumbler full or two of the 
water, to which has been added a tea- 
spoon full of epsom salts, or twice the 
quantity of calcined magnesia early 
in the morning. 

The harassing cough to which 
young persons are occasionally sub- 
ject and which often has its origin in 
an enfeebled state of the stomach, or 
in scrofulous habits from enlargement 
of the bronchial glands, as also the 
tussis hoinoralis of old people, will 



pear after the restoration of the diges- 
tive system to its former energy. 

As we should have inferred from 
the excess of carbonic acid and the 
presence of the earthy carbonates in 
the water, it is useful in calculous 
and nephritic complaints. 

In acute rheumatism the waters 
with the addition of neutral salts and 
the use of the bath will be of service. 
But in chronic rheumatism, in which 
there have been for a long time stifT- 
ness of the joints and cold skin, our 
chief reliance must be placed on the 
baths of the Warm and Hot Springs, 
by or attenuated with the use of the 
sulphur spring water. 

The usual times for drinking the 
waters of the Sweet Springs are ear- 
ly in the morning, between 12 and 1 
o'clock or some little time before din- 
ner, and in the evening at tea time. 
This later period is an improper one 
except the invalid suffer at the time 
from spasm of the stomach, or ex'pe- 
rience a morbid and gnawing sensa- 
tion of hunger. 

The use of the bath at the Sweet 
Springs is adapted to a large number 
of cases, A'iz., in Avhich there is a 
morbid or irregular heat of the sur- 
face with some febrile action. The 



all be materially benefitted by the use! first sensation or immersion in the 
of these waters. The relief afforded water is a slight shock, after which 



in such cases as these has usually 
given Bristol Hot Wells its reputation 
in the cure of pulmonary consump- 
tion. 

Females of what are termed a 
nervous habit of body, who have been 
enfeebled by protracted confinement, 
or long nursing their children, de- 
privation of exercise, and of the en- 
joyment of fresh air, and who have 
in addition to these causes of dys- 
pepsia, made excessive use of tea and 
cofTee, spices and condiments, will 
find their strength and health restored 
by drinking these Avaters as well as 
bathing in the manner to be soon 
mentioned. Irregularity in the ute- 



the feeling of coolness is refreshing 
and rather agreeable. We have less 
hesitation in bathing in water of tepid 
temperature, as this almost is, than 
in a cold bath. For common hygie- 
nii purposes it is quite safe and reviv- 
ing; and in disease may be used with 
considerable freedom, but not to the 
neglect of those precautions given 
when I spoke of the cold bath. A 
more efficacious mode of applying 
this water to the skin would be by 
douche — the stream being directed 
on the region in which the irritation 
was fixed, and whenever there was 
augmented heat and fixed pain as 
over the stomach, or liver, or abdo- 



rine functions will often soon disap- men generally above the pubis or on 



409 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONTGOMERY. 



the loins and sacnini, also to the 
joints when the violence of inflam- 
mation has not yet subsided nor pass- 
ed entirely into the clironic slate. If 
the irritation of the stomach forbids 
the drinking of the water, douching 
of the epigastrium would form a good 
preparative for its use in this way. 
Lumbago with some evening fever 
chloroies or floar albus, Vvith heat 
and pain at the loins, would al! be 
benefitted by douching this part. 

The freedom and advantage with 
which the bath at the Sweet Springs 
has been used by aged persons, is evi- 
dence of its general safetj^ The 
chief points to be attended to are, that 
the skin shall not be moist or cold 
with perspiration, nor that there shall 
be ETcneral chill nor the languor 
that follows excessive muscular ac- 
tion: the stomach also should be 
nearly empty, or at least not actively 
engaged in its Avork of digestion. 
The duration of a bath is usually 
too long; from five to fifteen minutes 
will embrace periods adapted to all 
conditions. Even the more robust 
ought not to stay in longer than the 
last mentioned time. 

UNION, P. V. and scat of justice, 
267 rns. S. W. by W. of W. C, and 
208 W. of R., in lat. 37° 34' N. and 



long. 3= 32' W. of W. C.,— situated 

nortlieastward from Peters' mountain 
in Greenbrier Valley, about 40 ms. a 
little W. of N. from Christiansburg. 
'i'he town of Union is a beautiful lit- 
tle village, in a pleasant and healthy 
situation. The country around for 
many miles is a rich and fertile soil, 
particularly adapted to grass. A vast 
number of cattle, horses, hogs, &c. 
are annually fattened in this neigli- 
borhood. it contains besides the usu- 
al county buildings, which are hand-. 
some, 45 dwelling hou-ses, 2 houses 
of public worship, (1 Methodist and 
1 Presbyterian,) 1 common school, 2 
houses of public entertainment, 3 
mercnntile stores, 2 tan yards, and 3 
saddlers. The other mechanics are, 
tailors, boot and shoe makers, black- 
smiths, wagon makers, brick layers, 
&c. &c. This court house is situa- 
ted 15 ms. west of the top of the Al- 
leghany mountain. Popukttion 400 
persons ; of whom 1 is a resident at- 
torney, and 2 are regular physicians. 

Conniy Courts are held on the 2>d 
Mo7iday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
te ?}i be r. 

Judge Brown holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the liih of May and October. 



3IONTCJl>MF;flY. 

Montgomery was created by the Legislature in the year 1777, and 
formed from Fincastle county. It is bounded N. and N. W. by Giles, — • 
W. and S. W. by Wythe, — S. by the new county of Floyd, — and W. by 
Franklin. As we are unacquainted with the precise dimensions of Floyd, 
we shall be compelled to give the dimensions of Monlgomery as it stood 
before the separation. Its mean length was 34 miles, mean breadth 32 ; 
and area 1089 sq. ms. Extending in lat. from 30° 43' to 37° 24' N. and 
in long. 3° 04' to 3° 50' W. of W. C. The northern portion of this coun- 
ty gives rise t(i the Roanoke and to Craig's creek, which flow in a N. W. 
direction into Botetourt. The couniy occupies a portion of the high pla- 
teau or table land between the waters which flow into the Atlantic, and 
those which flow towards the Mississippi. The mouth of Sinking creek, 
which enters the Great Kanawha, in Giles county, at the western foot of 
Walker's mountain, of course below any part of Montgomery, is found, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONTGOMERY. 



401 



from actual measurement, elevated 1,585 feet above tide water in James 
river. The highest spring tributary to Sinking creek was found to be 2509; 
we may, therefore, very safely assume as the general elevation of Mont- 
gomery from 1,800 to 2,500; or a mean exceeding 2,100 feet, or an equi- 
valent to more than five degrees of latitude. If then we assume 37° as 
the mean lat. of Montgomery county, the real winter climate will be simi- 
lar to that on the Atlantic coast in N. lat. 42°. Besides the mountains, the 
whole face of this county is broken and rocky, yet though so rough and 
elevated, the streams are bordered with excellent soil. 

Population of Montgomery as it stood in 1820, 8,733, — 1830, 12,306. 
It belongs to the 6th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, 
$1280 27— m 1834 on lots, $02 19— land, $593 77— 975 slaves, $243 75 
—3283 horses, $196 98—16 studs, $112 00—10 coaches, $28 25—19 
carryalls, $19 00— 7 gigs, $3 75. Total, $1,289 69. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $207 44— in 1833, $194 28. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Blacksburg, p. O. 215 ms. W. of 
R. and 290 S. W. by W. of W., situ- 
ated in the northern part of the coun- 
ty, 9 ms. northwardly from Chris- 
tiansburg. It contains 34 dwelling 
houses, 2 houses of public worship, 
(1 Methodist and I Presbyterian,) 1 
common school, 1 sabbath school, and 
I temperance society, 3 tan yards, 2 
saddlers, and various other mechan- 
ics. Population 150 persons; of 
whom 1 is a physician. 

CHRISTIANSBURG, P. V. and 
county seat, 206 ms. S. W. of R. 
and 282 S. W. of W. in lat. 37° 08' 
N. and long. 3° 24' W. of W. It 
contains besides the usual county 
buildings, 45 dwelling houses, 2 
houses of public worship, (1 Metho- 
dist and 1 Presbyterian,) 2 common 
schools, 5 miscellaneous stores, 3 be- 
nevolent societies, 2 tanyards, and 2 
saddlers. The principal mechanics 
are 3 boot and shoe factories, 4 tai- 
lors, 4 hatters, 1 cabinet maker, 4 tin 
plate workers. Population, whites 
230 persons; of whom 5 are resident 
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians — 
colored 105— total 335. 

County Courts are held on the 1st 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Bkown hold:- liirs Circuit 
51 



Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 22f^ of 3Iay and October. 

FoTHERiNGAY, P. O. 195 ms. frOJTl 
R. and 270 S. W. by W. of W. 

GooDsoN, P. O. 221 ms. W. of R. 
and 299 S W. of W. 

La Fayette, P. O. 190 ms. S. 
W. of R. and 266 from W., situated 
in the N. E. part of the county, near 
the foot of the Alleghany mountain 
on the head waters of the Roanoke, 
and at the junction of the North and 
South Forks, — 33 ms. from Fincastle, 
and 7 from the line dividing the coun- 
ties of Montgomery and Botetourt. 
This village was established 8 or 10 
years since, and is now lapidly pro- 
gressing, most of its improvements 
having bepn made within the last 2 
years. It contains 43 dwelling hou.ses, 
1 house of public worship, (Metho- 
dist,) 2 miscellaneous scores, 1 tavern, 
1 extensive manufacturing flour mill, 
1 lanyard, 1 cooper's shop, 1 boot and 
shoe factory, 4 smith shops, and vari- 
ous other mechanics. The soil of 
its vicinity is productive of Indian 
corn, wheat and tobacco. Population 
103 persons; of whom 1 is a regular 
physician. 

Newperx, p. V. 225 ms. from R. 
and 301 S. W. by W. of W., situated 
in the western part of the county, 16 
ms. S. W. of Christiansbuij:, and 7 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— MORGAN. 



W. of English's Ferry, on the main 
western stage road from Baltimore to 
Nashville, Tenn. Its location is high 
and airy, giving a fine view of the 
adjacent valleys and neighboring 
mountains, which present an interest- 
ing and romantic scene, and fill the 
traveller's mind with admiration. It 
contains 100 houses, 1 house of pub- 
lic worship, (iMethodist,) and 1 (Pres- 
byterian) in the immediate vicinity, 
(used as a school house,) 5 mercan- 
tile stores, 2 taverns, 2 saddlers, 1 tan 
yard, 2 boot and shoe makers, 2 wa- 
gon makers, 2 tailors, 2 blacksmith 
shops, 1 silversmith and jeweller, and 
1 milliner and mantua maker. Popu- 
lation 190 persons; of whom 2 are 
physicians. The face of the country 
to the N. aud N. W. is generally 
level to the valley of Back creek, a 
distance of 7 or 8 ms. in width, and 
between 15 and 20 in length, produc- 
tive of every kind of grain, but natu 
rally adapted to grass. The S. and 
S. E. is diversified and uneven, tho' 



the soil is of good quality and pro- 
duces well. The staple commodities 
are beef, pork, grain, hemp, flax, and 
butter. On the north bank of New 
river, 1^ ms. from Newbern, there is 
a bluff called the Glass Windows, (a 
great natural curiosity,) presenting 
to the spectator as magnificent a scene 
as the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge 
county. It is a perpendicular rock 
.500 feet in height, running parallel 
with the river about 3| of a mile, in 
which there are a number of coves, 
that produce saltpetre in abundance. 
Another natural curiosity is Peak 
Knob, about 3 ms. W. of Newbern. 
It somewhat resembles the Peaks of 
Otter, and rises between 800 and 1000 
feet above the bed of Peak creek, and 
presents the inhabitants with a de- 
lightful landscape to a very consider- 
able distance. Around the foot of 
Peak Knob and on the banks of Peak 
creek, are a number of mineral 
springs, the medicinal qualities of 
which are said to be considerable. 



MORGAN. 



Morgan was created by act of Assembly in 1820, from a portion of 
Hampshire and Berkley counties. It is bounded N. by the Potomac, 
which separates it from Washington count}' of Maryland, — E. by Berk- 
ley, — S. by Frederick and Hampshire, — and W. by the Potomac, separat- 
ing it from Alleghany county of Maryland. Its mean length is 22 nailes, 
mi,^an breadth 16; and area 352 sq. ms. It extends m lat. from 39° 22' to 
39° 40' N. and in long, from 0° 5^' to 1° 25' W. of W. C. The general 
slope of this county is N. N. E. in the direction of its two principal 
streams, the Great Cacapon and Sleepy creek. The surface is much 
broken and rocky, but there is much good soil upon the streams. 

Population in 1820, 2,500— 1830^ 2,094. It belongs to the 13th judi- 
cial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $561 20 — in 1834 on 
lots, $46 61— land, $393 72—91 slaves, $22 75—846 horses, $50 76 
—2 studs, $20 00—1 coach, $3 00. Total $536 84. Expended in edu- 
cating poor children in 1832, $162 7.5— in 1833, $165 83. 

TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

BATH, or Berkley Springs, P.! W., situated 8 ms S. S. W. of Han- 
O. and seat of p.ntire, 186 ms. N. N.lcocktown, Md., and 45 ms. N. W. by 
W. of R. and 93 N. W. by W. of'W. of Harper's Ferry. Mr. JefTer- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— NICHOLAS. 



4aa 



son in Notes on Virginia, thus speaks 
of this watering place. "On Potomac 
river in Berkley co., above the North 
mountain are medicinal springs. In 
former years they were much more 
frequented than those of Augusta or 
any other. Their powers however 
are less, the waters weakly mineral- 
ised and scarcely warm. They were 
more vished, because situated in a 
fertile, plentiful, and populous coun- 
try, better provided with accommo- 
dation, were always so far from the 
Indians, and nearest to the populous 
states." — The waters of Bath are now 
held in high repute, whatever opin- 



ion might have been entertained of 
them in the time at which Mr. Jeffer- 
son Avrote his Notes on Virginia; 
and hundreds flock to them every 
season from Maryland and Pennsyl- 
vania. 

County Courts are held on the Ath 
Monday in every month : — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, September and 
November. 

Judge Pakrer holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 25/A of April, and Avgtist. 

Oakland, P. O. 175 ms. from R. 
and 96 N. W. by W. of W. 



NICHOLAS. 

Nicholas was created by act of Assembly in the year 1818, from a por- 
tion of the counties of Kanau'ha, Greenbrier, and Randolph. It is bound- 
ed N. by Lewis,— N E. by Randolph, — E. by Pocahontas, — S. E. and S. 
by Greenbrier, — S. W. by Fayette, — and VV. by Kanawha. Its mean 
length is 44 miles, m^an breadth 32 J; and area 1,43 1 sq. ms. It e.xtends 
in lat. Irom 38° 04' to 38° 43', and in long, from 3° IS' to 4° 12' W. of 
W. C. Its greatest declination is to the souhwest, in the direction of its 
two principal streams, Gauley river and Elk river. The former flowing 
through the southern portion of the<!Ounty, the latter through the northern. 
Gauley is a rough stream, admitting of but little navigation. Elk on the 
contrary is a beautiful flowing stream, navigable almost to its source, and 
susceptible of being made at a small expense, the channel of valuable trade. 
It is well stocked with fine fresh water fish, some of which are of enor- 
mous size. The soil and climate of this county present great variety; be- 
ing in so ne parts very warm and very fertile, in others cold and barren. 

Population in 1820, 1,853— in 1830, 3,349. It belonrs to the 18th judi- 
cial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $263 01— in 1834, on 
lots. $11 98— land, $199 19— 53 slaves, S 13 25— 899 horses, $53 94—4 
studs, $25 00. Total, $303 36. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1833, $179 80— in 1833, $65' 83. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Birch River, P. O. 234 ms. from .ms. N. AV. by. W. of R. and 310 W. 
R. and 327 S. W. of W , situated inlof W., in lat. 38^ 18' N. and long, 
the northern part of the county, 17|3° 48' W. of VV. C. This village is 
ms. N. W. of the county seat. | situated on a flat at the head of Pe- 

MouNTAiN Cove, P. O. 273 ms. Iter's creek, and Arbuckles' branch, 
from R. and 315 W. of W. I The water rises from a flat near the 

NICHOLAS C.H. orSUMMEK-'town and flows east and west, consti- 
VILLE, P. O. and county seat, 286, luting westwardly the head of Peter's 



404 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. 



creek, and eastwardly the water flows 
into Arbuckle's branch, both of which 
streams empty into Gauley river, 
many miles apart. The village con- 
tains a frame court house, a clerk's of- 
fice, and jail of hewn slone, of supe- 
rior elegance and durability, 20 dwel- 
ling houses, 2 miscellaneous stores, 
2 taverns, 1 tan yard, 2 smith shops, 
1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 2 tailors, and 
1 boot and shoe maker. Population 
100 persons ; of Avhom 2 are resident 
attorneys. There is no physician 
here, and there are only 2 in the 
county. 

County Courts are held on the 2(^ 
Tuesday m every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, August and .Yo- 
ve?nbeT. 

Judge Duncax holds his Circuit 
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the 6th. of April and Septerabcr. 

SuTTOxsviLLE, P. O. 300 ms. N. 
W. by W. of R. and 312 S. W. by 
W. of W., situated in the southern 
part of the county, on the south side 
of Big Elk river, distant 100 ms. from 
the head of Elk, and from its junc- 
tion with the Great Kanawha river. 
Elk is navigable to the Union Mills, 
10 ms. above Suttonsville, which may 
be considered the head of good navi- 
tion. The situation of this village is 
eligible, being situated at the inter- 
section of the main northern and 
southern mail routes, passing through 
the vallies of Kanawha and Ohio. 
It contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 mis- 
cellaneous stores, 1 house of enter- 
tainment, and 1 lanyard. Population 
45. The principal pursuits of the 



inhabitants are building flat bottomed 
boats which are run down to the Ka- 
nawha salines, and freighted off* with 
salt to the various markets in the 
western country. There are a con- 
siderable number of valuable grist 
and saw mills on this river, which 
prepare large quantities of plank, 
lumber, «fec., for boat building, and 
for the Charleston market on the 
Great Kanawha. There are also 
great quantities of boat gunwales, 
barrel-staves, and hoop-poles, carried 
from this place to the Kanawha sa- 
lines. There are at this time about 
15 saw mills built and builfiing on 
Big Elk and its tributary waters, a 
part of which are expected to go into 
operation this season, and many oth- 
er.s are in operation on that part of 
Big Elk river which runs through 
Kanawha county. It will give some 
idea of the business done at thi.s place 
and its immediate vicinity, and of its 
fast increasing tirade, to state that in 
the spring of 1833, there were sent 
off at one time in boats, lumber, &c., 
to the amount of irom 10 to 12,000 
dollars. This was the product of 
about six months labor, including the 
winter season. This section of coun- 
try is but thinly and newly settled, 
with the exception of a few hunters, 
who are not generally very enterpris- 
ing people. Its remote situation has 
kept its natural advantages and facili- 
ties out of view until lately. It is 
now improving, and promises fair to 
become a flourishing and prosperous 
villacfe. 



OHIO. 



Ohio county was created by act of Assembly in the- year 1776, from a 
portion of the District of West Augusta. It is bounded N. by Brooke, — 
N. E. by Washington county. Pa. — S. E. by Greene county,' Pa. — S. by 
Tyler county, Va. — S. W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from Mon- 
roe county, Ohio, — and N. W. by Belmont county, Ohio. It will be per- 
ceived that these limits include the new county of Marshall, created from 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. 



405 



the Southern portion of Ohio, at the session of the Legislature of 1834-5. 
Indeed as the law has not yet been protnulgated which established this new 
county it will be impossible to separate them, and we shall speak of Ohio 
county as it stood in December, 1834. Its mean length is 28| miles, mean 
breadth 13; and area 37.5 square miles. It extends in lat. from 39° 42' to 
40° 14' N. and in long, from 3° 36' to 3° 55' W. of W. C. The declivity 
is N. W. towards the Ohio river. Several creeks which rise in Pa. flow 
N. W. to the Ohio through this county: — they are — Fishing, — Fish, — 
Grave, — Wheeling, and Short. — The surface is very much broken, but 
the soil very fertile, especially on the water courses. 

Population in 1820, 9,182— in 1830, 15,-590. It belongs to the 20th ju- 
dicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $2630 17 — in 1834, 
on lots, $1385 46— land, $820 33—183 slaves, $45 75—4291 horses, 
$257 46—23 studs, $190 00—40 coaches, $97 2.5— 13 carryalls, $14 50 
— 12 gigs, $8 50 — Total $2819 25. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $520 06— in 1833, $842 61. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Arciivii.le, p. O. 263 ms, fromj 
W. and 353 from R. 

Beeler's St.vtiox, p. O. 350 
ms. N. W. of R. and 259 N. W. 
by W. of W. — situated in the south- 
ern part of the county — the present 
county of Marshall. 

Grave Creek, or Elizabeth- 
town, p. V. 356 ms. from R. and 
260 N. W. by W. of W.— situated 
12 ms. below Wheeling. This creek 
and village take their name from ve- 
ry extensive tumuli, scattered over an 
elevated bottom or plain. The au- 
thor of this article visited this plain 
twice in 1794, before the use of the 
plough or other farming utensils had 
much disturbed the remains. At that 
epoch one very large conical mound, 
surrounded by a ditch, was itself en- 
vironed by numerous and similar, 
though smaller, tumuli. The remains 
of the roads, sloping down the banks 
from the plain, was also perfectly dis- 
tinguishable, as was the trench of a 
work in form of a parallelogram. 

Triadelphia, p. O. 364 ms. from 
R. and 255 from W. 

West Union. P. O. 344 ms. from 
R. and 266 S. W. by W. of W — 
Situated on Wheeling creek, 14 miles 
S. E. by E. of Wheeling, on an ad- 
vantageous and beautiful eminence, 



and on the post road leading from 
Morgantown, Monongalia county, to 
Wheeling. It contains 7 dwelling 
houses, 2 houses of public worship, 
(1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyterian,) I 
common school, 2 taverns, 1 general 
store, 2 blacksmith shops, 1 tanyard, 
and 1 tailor's shop. Population 25. 

West Liberty, P. O. 276 ms. 
N. W. by VV. of W. and 369 from 
R. This village is situated in a 
healthy and flourishing neighbor- 
hood, densely settled, five miles from 
the Ohio river, twelve miles N. E, 
of Wheeling, and nine S. of Wells- 
burg, the county seat of Brooke. It 
contains 40 dwelling houses, 2 houses 
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, 
and 1 Methodist,) 1 academy and ^ 
common schools, 3 mercantile stores, 
2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 
blacksmith shops, 2 tailors, 1 coach 
maker, and several house carpenters, 
cabinet makers, &c. I printing office, 
from which a weekly paper is issued. 
There are within the circle of 3 ms. 
around this village, 6 manufacturing 
flour mills. The soil of the sur- 
rounding neighborhood is productive, 
and one of the best wheat and wool 
growing countries wf st of the moun- 
tains. Population 280 persons ; of 
whom 2 are regular physicians. 



40^ 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. 



WHEELING CITY, seat of 
justice, 357 ms. from R. and 264 W. 
of W. C. in lat. 40° 07' N. and long. 
4° 36' W. of W. C. — situated on the 
left bank of the Ohio river, and at the 
mouth of a creek of the same name, 
56 ms. S. W. of Pittsburg and 31 S. 
W. by W. of Washington, in Pa. — 
The origin of this place was Wheel- 
ing fort, built early in the Revolu- 
tionary war, which stood on the breast 
of a high bank, at the point of which, 
the U. S. road reaches the Ohio river. 
Wheelingadvanced at first but slowly. 
It was laid out as a village early in 
1783, and in 1820 contained 1,567 in- 
habitants. Within the last thirteen 
years the advance has been rapid, — 
in 1830 the population was 5,222, and 
now, 1834, is estimated at 8,000, — 
among whom are 14 resident attor- 
neys, 12 regular physicians, and 11 
clergymen. It contains about 500 
houses, 9 houses of public worship, 
(2 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 
Methodist, 1 Catholic, 1 Friends or 
(Quakers, 1 regular Baptist, and 1 
Campbellite, &c. 

There are a number of very ex- 
cellent institutions here. 1st. The 
Wheeling Institute, contains 4 depart- 
p^ents, viz : — infant — primary — clas- 
sical, and female — under the super- 
intendence of six teachers, and con- 
i^jns from 150 to 160 pupils. 

2d. The Wheeling Lancasterian 
Academy. 3d. The Wheeling Clas- 
sical Academy. 4th. The Wheel- 
ing Female Seminary. 5tli. The 
Wheeling University, (not yet organ- 
ized,) and nine.common English pre 
paratory schools. 

The rear of this town is skirted by 
a range of hills which approaches 
within a short distance of the river. 
These hills, which abound with inex- 
haustible quaniities of stone coal, from 
their proximity to the town are of the 
greatest convenience to the numerous 
n^anufactories; — a number of them 
having coal within a i*i\v yards of 
their fires. This place is one of the 



first manufacturing towns in the wes- 
tern country, and ranks, in point of 
population, the fourth in the stale. 
There are at all times not less than 
26 steam engines in operation. The 
Wheeling Iron Works, owned by 
Mes.sfs. Shanberger & Agnew, roll 
1000 tons of iron annually — about 
300 tons of which are cut into nails 
of various sizes — the balance being 
bar, boiler, sheet, hoop iron, &c. — 
giving employment to a great num- 
ber of hands, and consuming 150,- 
000 bushels of stone coal annually. 
These works are calculated to pro- 
duce xlouble or treble the quantity pr. 
annum, if there were a demand for it. 
There are also 4 iron foundries, em- 
ploying 70 hands, & consuming about 
130,000 bushels of coal annually, 4 
steam engijie builders, giving employ- 
ment to 70 hands and consuming 60,- 
000 bushels of stone coal annually — 
5 glass houses and 2 glass cutting es- 
tablishments — giving employment to 
193 hands, and consuming 260,000 
bushels of stone coal, 3 steam flour 
mills, consuming 75,000 bushels per 
annum, 1 brewery, 2 steam distilleries, 
consuming 50,000 bushels, 2 cotton 
factories, 2 woollen factories and card- 
ing machines, consuming 70,000 bush- 
els, 2 paper mills, 70,000 bushels, 2 
steam saw mills, 50,0UO bushels, 1 
copperas, I white and 1 sheet lead fac- 
tory, consuming 8,000 bushels of stone 
coal annually. 

There are 2 tobacco factories and 1 
glue factory, 1 coach and wagon ma- 
ker, I edge tool maker, 3 chair ma- 
kers, 1 comb maker, 2 merchant tai- 
lors, giving employment to a great 
number of hands, 4 silversmiths, 18 
blacksmiths, and 3 white smiths, 2 
steam planing machines, 3 tanners 
and curriers, 5 saddlers, 17 boot and 
shoe factories, 6 painters and glaziers. 
3 cabinet makers, 3 coppersmiths and 
tin plate workers, 5 hatters, 2 wire 
workers, 2 coopers, 1 rope maker, 2 
water pump manufactories, 2 soap and 
tallow chandleries. 10 bake houses, 6 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. 



4or 



livery stahles, 1 stone and earthen pot- 
tery, 7 brick yards, 12 master stone 
and brick masons, 5 stone cutters, 6 
plasterers, 7 carpenters and underta- 
kers, I book bindery, 1 brass foundry, 
3 window glass and hollow ware 
manufactories, consuming 175,000 
bushels of coal annually, 3 printing 
offices, (2 issuing a weekly, and 1 a 
tri- weekly paper,) 1 book and job of- 
fice, 2 book stores, 1 reading room, 
and a very extensive circulating libra- 
ry, 12 apothecaries' shops, 1 Lyceum, 
a Masonic Hall and Theatre. 

The aggregate number of manu- 
factories in the town of Wheeling for 
domestic goods are 113, using annu- 
ally upwa'rds of 1,000,000 bushels of 
coal, and giving employment to more 
than 1,300 hands. There are 65 
wholesale and retail stores, vending 
annually goods to the amount of $1,- 
500,000, 7 commission and forward- 
ing houses, tor the sale of goods con- 
signed, and for receiving and forward- 
ing merchandize and produce. These 
houses, from Nov^'r 1832, to Nov'r 
1833, forwarded to Baltimore and the 
District of Columbia, by wagons, 
2,671 hogsheads of tobacco, and by 
steam, keel and flat boats, to the west 
and south, and by wagons to Balti- 
more and Philadelphia, merchandize 
and produce equal to at least 11,000 
tons. During the same period there 
Avas paid to wagoners for carriage on 
goods from the eastern cities, and to 
boats for freights, via the river, a sum 
variously estimated at from $230 to 
$250,000. The amount of money 
expended for the purchase of merino 
wool exported during the past season 
cannot be exactly ascertained, but it is 
known that a sum exceeding $104,- 
500 was so invested for pork, lard and 
bacon 130 to $140,000, flour 550 
to $600,000, whiskey, cider, apples, 
&c. 50 to $G0,000, flat boats to trans- 
port the same 70 to $80,000, stone 
coal, say 1,000,000 bushels, $30,000, 
flat boats to transport the same, 15 to 
$20,000. There is owned in Wheel- 



ing, in whole and in part, from 17 to 
20 steam boats, worth from 200 to 
$230,000. I'he arrivals and depar- 
tures of steam boats at and from this 
port duiing the past year were, 738. 
Wheeling is by a law of Congress a 
port of entry, so that goods from any 
port of Europe may be imported di- 
rect without payment of dutiesat New 
Orleans. 

There is now running to and from 
Wheeling eight lines of daily stages, 
east, west and north — 1 tri-weekly 
line, 1 semi-weekly and 1 weekly. 
The number of passengers arriving 
and departing weekly by steam boats 
and stages are variously estimated at 
from 350 to 400. — The Baltimore and 
Oliio wagon transportation company 
with a capital of $200,000 (one-fourth 
of which is paid in) transports goods 
and produce between Wheeling and 
Baltimore. One wagon arrives and de- 
parts daily at and horn each of those 
places, with a load weighing from 2-^ 
to 2-| tons and occupies 8 days upon 
the road. Arrangements are in pro 
gress to increase the number of daily 
arrivals and departures from one to 
three wagons, and eventually to five. 

There are now within a circle of 
25 miles around Wheeling, 134 manu- 
facturing flour mills, making annual- 
ly at least 270,000 barrels of flour, 
worth say $823,500 — of this quanti- 
ty, from 150,000 to 160,000 bbls. are 
exported by boats to New Orleans, or 
by wagons across the mountains. — 
The public water works are now near- 
ly completed, worked by a steam en- 
gine of 120 horsepower; audit pos- 
sesses the capacity to raise gallons 
of water from the Ohio river per hour. 
These, together with the erection of 
public stone wharves, sewers, &c. &c. 
of the most permanent kind, cost the 
corporation within the last 2 years an 
expenditure of upwards of $40,000. 
A stone bridge has lately been erect- 
ed over Wheeling creek at this place, 
at a cost of $17,000. — Boat building 
for the last few years has bef^n carried 



4D8 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 



on here extensively. At low Avater, \ 
steamboats ascend no higher than this 
place. From the fact of its having a 
more permanent navigation the whole 
year round than any other point, it is 
made the general route of travellers. 
It also possesses one of the finest mar- 
kets in the western country. The 
Baltimore and Ohio rail-road it is 
supposed will strike the Ohio river at 
this place. Considering all these ad- 
vantages, there remains no doubt that 
in the course of a few years Wheel- 
ing will become one of the most im- 
portant places in the west. The 
northwestern bank of Virginia is lo- 
cated here. It may not be consider- 
ed irrelative to stale that the present 
population of Wheeling is estimated 
at about 8,000 souls; shewing an in- 
crease in the last four years, (since 
the census of 1830) of about fiffj/ per 
cent.; and, in the last 15 years, of 
about eight hundred per cent! Thf 
colored part of the population, both 
slaves and free blacks — amounting to 
less than two hundred — it is highly 
probable that Wheeling contains al- 
ready, the largest ivhite popu,Jation of 
any town or city, in the state; and, in! 
reference to its manufactories and 
commerce, if not the first, is doubtless, 



the second town in the commonwealth. 
A growth so rapid, is believed to be 
altogether unexampled in Virginia; 
and but seldom surpassed even in the 
rapidly filling districts of the "great 
west.'' 

This town, the capital of Ohio 
county, situated at the head of steam 
boat navigation on the Ohio, during 
the low water season ; at the termina- 
tion of the eastern, and commence- 
ment of the Avestern division of the 
great "Cumberland," or "National 
Road:" possessing unexampled facili- 
ties and advantages for manufacturing, 
in the abundance and low cost of all 
materials, and especially of fuel; 
(coal, costing, delivered at the facto- 
ries, but one to three cents per bush- 
el:) surrounded by a country of un- 
common fertility, and remarkable for 
health — cannot but continue to ad- 
vance in business, population and 
wealth. 

County and Cnrporntion Courts 
are held on the ?>d Mo?idai/, in eve- 
ry month: — Quarterly in March, 
June, August and November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the I4th 
of May and October, by Judge Fry. 



PAGE. 

Page was established by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed out of 
parts of Rockingham and Shenandoah. It is bounded on the W. and N. 
W. by Shenandoah, — N. and N. E. by Frederick, — E. by ihe Blue Ridge, 
separating it from Rappahannock, — S. E. by Madison, and S. and S. W. by 
Rockingham, Length 34 miles, breadth 11, and area 374 square miles. 
Lat. 38° 45' long. 1° 25' W. of W. C. It consists of one entire valley. 
The Blue Ridge lying on the east and the Fort or Massanuttin mountain 
ori the west. The Shenandoah river passes through the whole length of 
the county, running from south to north. The Blue Ridge and Foit moun- 
tain are exactly parallel to each other, and here range due north and south, 
thus making the county an oblong square — the east ar.d west bo:rjdary 
lines running on the top of these mountains respectively. These moun- 
tains present a most beautiful and pictureque appearance at all seasons oi 
the year. The snow and ice, and clouds of winter, are not less beautiful, 
though something more dreary, than the refreshing green of sunnnei, or 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 4Q9 

the bright and varied hues of autumn. The land in this county is gene- 
rally of the very best quality of limestone, valley land — a very consider- 
able portion is bottom, lying on the Shenandoah river and Hawksbill 
and other creeks. Considered in relation to its agricultural advantages, it is 
with the exception of Jefferson, the richest county of its size, in the state. 
The productions of the soil are such as ore common in the valley of Vir- 
ginia. 

There are in the county 61 saw mills, 24 merchant mills, 20 grist mills, 
6 carding machines, 3 oil mills, 6 hemp mills, 10 tan yards, 1 blast fur- 
nace for smelting iron and making castings, and 2 forges for making bar 
iron. These forges and this furnace belong to Benj. Blackford &, Son, 
and their manufactures in iron, are annually worth 50,000 dollars. 

Vast quantities of iron ore are found in every part of the county. Cop- 
per, lead and magnesia are also found in considerable quantities. Beauti- 
ful marble is found in many places. The town of Luray may be said to 
be almost built on a rock of gray marble — but as yet there has been no 
effort made to dress it for ornamental u.se. The rock is blown, and the 
marble in its rough and crude state — is used for all the common building 
purposes of the town. It never can become an article of commerce, until 
there are increased facilities of transportation. 

The population by the census in 1830 was 8,327, about 1000 of whom 
were slaves. It belongs to the 14th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, $1354 09— in 1834, on lots, $49 65— land, $989 5G~5I7 
slaves, $129 25—1991 horses, $189 46—6 studs, $38 00 — 6 coaches, 
$13 00— 4 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1341 42. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1^832, $237 25— in 1833, $369 18. 

Curiosities. — There are several very large mounds or Indian graves, 
such as are common to the Ohio and Mississippi valley — from one of which, 
situated in a field in cultivation, bones, beads, pipes, &c. are continually 
dragged by the plough There are many large and extensive caves in this 
county, such as are peculiar to lime stone countries — one of which, that at 
Cave Hill, is thought to be little inferior in extent and beauty to Weyer's 
Cave. It is not however, very accessible, the entrance being difficult, and 
is therefore but little visited. The author has been so obliging as to send 
us the following beautiful description of this remarkable cave — which he 
published in the Shenandoah Sentinel, May 14th, 1825, it is well written 
and well worthy of perusal. 

''Wonders of Cave Hill. — It would seem that all that region of coun- 
try lying west of the Blue Ridge, as far towards the Pacific ocean as 
it has been explored and known, abounds in subjecis, which, whilst they 
gratify the curiosity and exercise the utmost stretch of the imagination, 
confound and baffle the understanding. And a subject not the least curi- 
ous and wonderful, are those extensive and numerous caverns, which are 
found generally in the limestone districts of country. 

"One of those caves has been known to the people of the neighborhood 
of Luray, in Page county, during a number of years past ; but nothing 
like a full discovery of its beauties was ever made until whhin a few days 
past. This cave is about one mile west of the town of Luray, and situa- 
ted within a hundred yards of the road leading irom Thornton's Gap to 
New Market. The entrance is almost exactly at the top of a small moun- 
tain, which has for along time been known to the neighborhood by the name 
oi Cave Hill. Recently several attempts had been made to explore (his 
52 



410 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 

subterranean world, but rather unsuccessfully; and on Saturday last a party 
of fifteen g-entlemen left Luray, with a determination to give it a complete 
exploration. 

"The mouth of the cave was rather difficult of access, owing to its small- 
ness ; but the party eager for the marvellous and impatient of obstacles, 
fell manfully to work, and in a short time, by breaking and removing the 
rocks, a different, and more commodious entrance than the one formerly 
used, was opened intg the cave. Then commenced the bustle of prepara- 
tion for the descent. The broad cloth and finer articles of dress were 
quickly laid aside, and in their stead was substituted old clothing, which 
had been specially provided for the occasion. Then the descent com- 
menced — each man provided with a sufficient number of candles for half a 
day, whilst others carried provisions and refreshments; and others again, 
instruments for the purpose of ascertaining courses, distances, 6lc., and of 
determining other matters relating to the cave. 

"Here, if we mistake not, was a pretty correct criterion of that physical 
courage and strength of nerve which we so much admire in others, and 
which we are all willing to believe we possess ourselves. Each man was 
willing that his comrade should descend first into this great unknown deep; 
and all were willing to be the last to enter. In a few moments, however, 
the whole party were safely entered. The descent for ten or fifteen yards 
is rather narrow, and at an angle of forty-five degrees; it then takes a 
horizontal direction, until we are brought at the distance of about one hun- 
dred yards from the entrance, to the first room, which from its situation, we 
called the Lobby. 

" The passage approaches this room about ten feet above the level of the 
floor, and at some places it is perpendicular, but the descent into the room, 
is down the rocks somewhat in the form of steps. This room contains 
some specimens of beautiful spar. Here we tried to take the bearing of 
the room, but found from the proximity of minerals, or some unknown 
cause, that the instruments were rendered wholly useless. Leaving this 
room, we proceeded in a direction which seemed to be west and southwest, 
and down the side of the hill. This passage has somewhat the appearance 
of a large stairway. After descending, as we supposed, about a quarter of 
a mile, the passage became very straight and smooth, and gradually enlarged 
until we perceived that we stood in front of a room whose dimensions, from 
the light of our candles, we could not discover. The entrance here, as in 
the room which we first entered, was ten or fifteen feet above the level of 
the floor. After a few moments, however, by clinging to the projections of 
spar, which here appeared like large icicles, the whole party stood safely 
upon the floor of this great room. Here all the wonder and magnificence 
of the subterranean world burst upon us at once. We found that we stood 
in a room, the area of whose floor was equal to a quarter of an acre. Im- 
mediately before us, and within a fnw feet of the centre of the room, arose 
a vast column or pillar, in some degree combinmg architectural propor- 
tions; and running up about thirty feet, and supporting the dome of this 
immense Ham, This column stands upon a block or rude pedestal, about 
three feet in height, and the shaft where it rests upon it is about the thick- 
ness of a man's body. It then swells gradually until it becomes, at the 
distance of twenty feet from its base, about the size of a barrel, whence it 
continues of the same size, until it gradually enlarges into its capital, where 
it reaches the dome. Strange to tell, this vast column is almost as regular- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PxVGE. 411 

ly fluted or grooved, as if it had been done wiib the chisel of the sculptor. 
About fifteen feet from the main pillar stand two smaller ones, about ten 
feet in height, which consequently do not reach the ceiling; and just at 
their base, and nearly between them is a small pool or basin of water. 
Here the whole party sat down, and unfolding their various bundles of 
provisions and refreshments, and sticking their candles to the different pil- 
lars and projections of the wall, enjoyed their cold collation with such ap- 
petites and spirits, as were naturally produced by exercise and the novelty 
of the scene around us. We perceived now for the first time, by the united 
glare of all our candles, that the whole of the arch of this immense Hall, 
was hung with the most beautiful stalactites, and variegated with almost 
every possible variety of color. In some places it was perfectly white, then 
red, "grey or yellow — and in others it was as clear and transparent as ice. 

"In lookinsr around us towards the lights which were dispersed in dif- 
ferent parts of the Hall, the various small spars or pillars that were point- 
ing up — others that had been detached from the ceiling and lay scattered 
about the floor — and numerous large blocks of crystalized limestone, pro- 
duce novel and almost indescribable feelings. It did not require an imagi- 
nation unusually fervid, to liken this dim picture of the floor, to the minia- 
ture ruins of some great city, with a few of its spires and steeples pointing 
up from the ruins; or to some mighty temple, with its shattered and broken 
columns and fallen walls, with just sufficient of its materials to shew the 
style of its former magnificence. 

"When we had finished our repast and collected our company to push 
forward in quest of further discoveries, we concluded to call this room 
Congress Hall; its magnificence being cquaHed- by nothing else within 
our knowledge. We now proceeded to the left of the entrance by which 
Ave came into the Hall — entered an opening which presented itself, and by 
following rather an uneven and diflicalt passage, we very soon ai-rived in 
another room. Here we found a very pleasing subject for our admiration. 
A large block or projection of the rock at one side of this room was hung 
round with a vast number of stalactites, of every possible variety of shape 
and size, — from the thickness of one's finger to that of one's arm, and from 
six inches to three or four feet in length. Some one of the party casually 
strikino- one of the larger of these stalactites, a loud, full sound was emit- 
ted, something like the tone of a distant church bell. Several of the party 
then drawing pieces of spar across these stalactites, ahernately and in con- 
cert with each other, it produced a rude and not unpleasing melody, with 
every gradation of sound, from the deepest tone of the organ to the finest 
note of the flute. This room we somewhat ajifly called the Music Room. 
Finding no convenient outlet from this room other than the one by which 
Ave entered, Ave returned into Congress Hall. After we had entered this 
Hall again, and continued to the right until aa'c came to the great stairway, 
by which AA-e had first entered, Ave discovered greatly to our surprise that 
this entrance projected into the Hall twelve or fifteen feet, and Avas nearly 
as many feet from the floor. You can form some idea of this singular 
entrance by supposing a square box Avith its ends open to be projected 
through a AvindoAV into a room. This projected or funnel part of the entrance 
appeared to have been formed by the same process that the stalactites and 
spar had been; and its bottom, under Avhich we could all Avalk and A'ieAv it, 
seemed not to be more than nine or ten inches in thickness. Immediately 
to the right of this passage, commenced, what we A'ery properly called, a 



412 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 

Gallery. This Gallery was considerablj^ above the level of the room, and 
contained a great quantity of very brilliant and beautiful spar. The side 
of the Gallery next to the Hall was entirely open, from which we could 
look down into it. We left the gallery, and still continuing to the right 
around the Hall, we entered a cavity in the floor; and after traversing a 
tolerably long aud difficult passage, we arrived at a very regular room, the 
side wails and ceiling of which seemed to be the clear blue limestone, with 
a thin crystallization as clear as glass over their surface. We could reach 
the ceiling, upon which we wrote many of our names with white chalk, 
the day of the month, year, &c. This room we called the Glazed Cham- 
ber. In the passage leading to this chamber, we discovered attached to 
the side of the rock, what appeared to be a complete conch shell. The 
shape and size — the smoothness and delicate red on the inside, and the 
roughness on the outside, with the little circle of knobs near the top, all 
precisely corresponded with the product of the sea. And it appeared that 
a very gentle tap would have detached it from the rock. Within a few 
feet of this was a sparry excrescence, exactly resembling the human heart. 
Its color, shape, and size all precisely corresponded. And near this again, 
the perfect leg, foot, and talons of a bird projected from the rock. These 
several objects were so clearly and completely defined and so closely re- 
sembled the originals, as to strike the mind even of the most inattentive 
observer with a degree of astonishment. 

*' From the Glazed Chamber we all once more returned to Congress 
Hall, and still continued our discoveries to the right around the room. We 
perceived now, that as the arch of this great room became lower, large 
stalactites were projected from itand reached the floor; thus fomiing a beau- 
tiful colonnade or row of shining pillars in a line with the direction of the 
room, and three or four feet from its wall, leaving between this colonnade 
and the wall a beautiful recess. In this recess one of the simplest, yet one 
of the most striking beauties of the cave unfolded itself This was a 
spring or pool of pure water, which appeared as transparent as ether. This 
pool or basin is about three or four feet in diameter, and twelve or fourteen 
inches in depth. The bottom and sides of this basin where the water covers 
them, are entirely covered with stalagmites or drops of shining spar, which 
have much the appearance of burnished silver. About the centre of this 
pool, stands a beautitul stalactite, eighteen inches in height, and unlike all 
the rest of these spec imeni^ of spar which we found arising from the floor, 
the small end or point rested on the bottom of the basin, and gradually 
enlarged until it arose several inches above the top of the water; thus pre- 
senting the singular appearance of a long cone resting upon its point. 
Exactly over this, a large spar hangs from the ceiling of the room, and 
approaches within eighteen inches of that which is in the water. From 
the point of this hanging spar there runs a stream of water about the thick- 
ness of a quill, and falls exactly on the top of the spar in the centre of the 
spring; and is, in fact, the source from which tiie spring is supplied. Both 
of these stalactites have the appearance of large icicles. 

" To the right of this spring behind the pillars and a little above it, 
through the solid limestone rock or wall of (he room, was a small smooth 
opening just large enough to admit the body: This opening is perfectly 
level, and after sliding about ten feet, we came into a rooip, not so large, 
but in point of beauty, far exceeding anything which we had seen. Tne 
whole interior of this room is a complete lustre, or surlace of chining spar. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 413 

In this room about three and a half feet above the level of the floor, is a 
complete wainscot or chairboard, with apparent mouldings and carved work 
in complete relief; and extending in one entire and unbroken circle around 
the room. In the centre of the floor stand three large spars, resembling 
candlesticks of a mammoth size. These candlesticks arise from the floor 
of the room with various enlargements and diminutions, resembling carved 
work, until they reach the exact level of the chairboard, when the spar 
which resembles the candle, and seems to be set into a socket, runs up 
about two feet. As if to make the copy more exact, and the resemblance 
more palpably striking, the candlesticks seem to be of a dusky or bronze 
color, and the candle or spar arising from it of a clear white. We called 
this room the Masonic Hall. 

One fact here presented itself too palpably to be mistaken This room 
had evidently been at one time filled with water to the height of the chair- 
board, and by the gradual crystallization of the lime and nitre which it 
held suspended, the chairboard was formed, which at once accounted for 
its being so perfectly level and regular, and running into all the little hol- 
lows and irregularities of the wall. The candlesticks too had been formed 
in the same way by the dropping of the water from the arch; and which 
being, as we supposed completely saturated wiih lime and nitre, was of 
greater specific gravity than the water into which it fell, and thus Mas 
gradually formed the large spars which resembled the candlesticks, until 
they rose even with the top of the water; after which the spar became im- 
mediately small and clear, resembling a candle. The crystallization on 
the walls of this room is in beautiful waves and folds, resembling drapery. 
At one end of the room a large spar, resembling a bed post, stood in beau- 
tiful relief from the wall, and large folds and waves of drapery, resembling 
curtains, seemed to hide the rest of the bed. 

" Here then our admiration and astonishment were at their height. Our 
feelings had been wrought up to a degree of almost painful intensity, 
Here we stood hundreds of feet beneath the surface of the earth, and a full 
half-mile from the first entrance, treading upon a spot and breathing an 
atmosphere which had not been disturbed since the creation of the world. 
A place in which the hmnan voice had never before been heard, and on 
whose beauties the human eye had never rested. There was in truth an 
awful sublimity in the state of our feelings, superinduced not only by what 
we saw, but in part perhaps by a contingent danger to which we were ex- 
posed. The falling of the arch, or the rolling of a single rock into some 
of the narrow passages which we had to retrace, would have shut us up in 
eternal darkness in this mysterious region of wonders. 

" Why nature should display those various and astonishing beauties only 
for herself, or place them thus in a region of darkness and danger, is to 
us marvellous and incomprehensible. Or why she should thus, in a capri- 
cious or whimsical mood, group together objects the least resembling each 
other in their nature and uses is equally strange. A bedstead, drapery and 
candlesticks — a conch shell, bird's foot and a human heart. Strange and 
mysterious associations. We cannot fully describe or comprehend them. 
And all that we could do upon viewing them was to exclaim, wonderful ! 
wonderful ! 

" Prom the room last described, we returned to the mouth of the cave, 
and found that we had spent upwards of (bur hours in examining its beau- 
ties, without, however, discovering their full extent. We determined to 
defer a further search to some other occasion. 



414 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PAGE. 



" This cave is situated on the lands of Mr David McKay, and is said to 
have been first partially explored in the following singular manner. A 
Mr. Ruffner, who was nearly as much celebrated for deeds of sylvan 
prowess as the renowned Putnam, in passing this cave some thirty years 
ago, conceived the bold and hazardous design of entering it alone. He 
accordingly prepared hmiself a flambeau of pine, and placed his rifle 
across the mouth, to indicate, in case of accident, to his friends, if they 
should happen to see it, that he was in the cave. He descended, but soon 
fell and put out his light, and as might have been expected, was soon be- 
wildered and lost in its labyrinth of passages. It happened that some of 
his friends in passing the cave discovered his gun, and rightly concluding 
that he had gone into it, they procured lights and entered in search of him, 
and found and brought him out again, after his having been in forty-eight 
hours. This brave fellow was among the pioneers who were foremost ni 
exploring and settling our western frontier : and Avas at last killed by the 
Indians, after having performed deeds of valor and daring prowess, which 
would have done honor to the character of a hero." 

We suggest the propriety of commemorating the exploit mentioned in 
this last paragraph, by calling this cave in future Ruffner's Cave. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Hambatjgh's, p. O. 14G ms. frominear the centre of the count3% and 
R. and 82 W. of W. C. !equidistant from Thornton's Gap on 

HoNiEsviLLE, P. O. 137 ms. from, the E., and Mas.sanutten Gap on the 
R. and 115 W. of W. C. This vil-|W. The first house in this village 
Jage is situated 10 rns. above Luray, j was built in 1814. It now contains 
between the Masanutten mountain jbesides the ordinary county buildings, 
fir)d the Blue Ridge, on the banks of between 40 and 50 dwelling houses, 
floney creek, (from which it takes 2 houses of public worship, (1 Bap- 
)ts name,) about 200 yards from itS;tistand 1 Methodist.) There are 4 
junction with the south Shenandoah mercantile stores, 1 tan yard, 2 cabi- 
jriver, which is navigable 40 miles jnet makers, 2 wheelwrights, and va- 
above this place. It contains G dwel- jrious other mechanics. Population 
ling houses, 1 house of public wor-[400 persons, of whom 3 are resident 
ship, free for all denominations, 1 attorneys and 3 regular physicians, 
common school, 1 mercantile stoiv, 1 , Coua/j/ Courts are held on the 4/// 
tavern, 1 extensive manufacturing iil/o/icZr/?/ in every month; — Quarti'r- 
fiour mill, 2 saw mills, 1 wool card- 7y in March, May, August and No- 
vember. 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the \st of April and Sept em- 
ber. 

The court house in this village 
which is erected on a considerable 
eminence, and on the edge of the 
town, is perhaps one of the handsom- 
est buildings of-the kind in Western 
Virginia. It commands a view of 



ing machine, 1 distillery, 1 boat yard 
famed for building gundaloe boats, 1 
tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 
blacksmith shop. — Population 34 per- 
sons ; of whom 1 is a regular physi- 
cian. 

Hope's Mills, P. O. 3 ms. N. of 
Luray, and 87 from W. 

Kite's Mill, P. O. 14 ms. from 
Luray, county seat, and 104 from W. 

LURAY, P. V. and county seal, 



105 ms. from W. and 13() frumR. jthe mountains to the east and west 
It is situated on tiie Ilawksbill creek, {far beyond the limit.^^ of the county. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON, 41; 



Marksville, p. O. 125 ins, from 
R. and 112 from W. 

Massanutten, p. O. 144 ms. from 
R. and 114 W. of W. 

Ov ERALLS, P. O 91 ms. W. of W. 
and 142 from R. 

The Stoney Max, one of the 



peaks of the Blue Ridge, between 
Page and Madison counties ; it is 
about 10 ms. distant and in full view 
from the court house yard. The 
Stoney Man has been considered by 
some to be the next highest peak of the 
Blue Ridge, after the Peaks of Otter, 



PENDLETON. 

Pendleton was created by an act of Assembly passed in 1788, and formed 
from a portion of Augusta, Hardy, and Rockingham. It is bounded N. by 
Hardy, — E. and S. E. by a ridge called the Great North mountain, which sepa- 
rates it from Rockingham and Augusta, — S. by Bath, — and W. by the main 
Alleghanychain, which separates it from Pocahontas and Randolph. Its mean 
length is dS^ miles, mean breadth 26 ; and area 999 square miles. It extends in 
lat. from 38° 15, to 38° 53' N. and in long, from 2° to 2° 42' W. of W. C. 
Pendleton occupies the most elevated part of the table land between its two 
bounding ridges of mountains, discharging to the S. W. the extreme sources 
of James river, and in an opposite direction the higher sources of south 
branch of Potomac. Comparing the general elevation of Pendleton with 
the determined height of James river in Alleghany county, considering the 
whole slope of Bath county intervening, the level of the arable land from 
whence flow the sources of James and Potomac rivers, must exceed 2000 
feet. Covington in Alleghany at the junction of Pott's creek with Jack- 
son's, is 1,222 feet above the m.ean tide in Chesapeake bay, and at this point 
the water of Jackson river has fallen down a plain of upwards of 50 miles 
descent. The southern end of this county is pretty equally divided into 
four vallies, by five parallel ridges of mountains, which go under the fol- 
lowing names, beginning on the eastern side: first, Shenandoah mountain^ — 
second, Cowpasture mountain — third, Bullpasture mountain — fourth, Jack- 
son's mountain, and fifth. Fore mountain, to the main Alleghany ridge. The 
valley between the Shenandoah and Cowpasture mountains is watered by a 
stream called Shaw's fork, a branch of the Cowpasture river, and is of a 
thin soil, and badly cultivated. Near the head of the fork, are two beauti- 
ful mineral springs, about two miles apart, which Avould rank among the 
first watering places in Western Virginia, provided the necessary accom- 
modations could be furnished to visiters. The valley between the Cowpas- 
ture and Bullpasture mountains, is watered by the Cowpasture river, and is 
rather superior in point of soil and cultivation to the former. The valley 
between the Bullpasture and Jackson's mountains, is watered by the Bull- 
pasture river, a rapid and beautiful stream, which furnishes a number of 
commodious sites for machinery. The soil in this valley is good, well 
adapted to the growth of grass, and the production of grain, is well im- 
proved, and in a tolerable state of cultivation. The valley between Jackson 
and the Fore mountains, is watered by Jackson's river, and will bear nearly 
the same description of the former. There is in the S. W. part of the county 
on the head of Jackson's river, a small village by the name of Woodsboro'. 
It contains seven houses, a tanyard, and various mechanics, but it is on the 
decline. 

The Crab run is a beautiful strea^u of pure water; it has its rise at the 



416 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON. 

eastern base of Jackson's mountain, and floAvs in a S. E. direction about ten 
miles, through the southern end of the county, and empties into the Bull- 
pasture river, about oiie mile below the post office of the same name. The 
wedge of land pointing above its junction with the Bullpasture, affords one 
of the most beautiful sites for a town that is any Avhere to be /ound in this 
section of country, several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, a saw mill, 
a blacksmith shop, 1 house of public worship, and 1 common school, have 
been erected on this spot of ground, which is known by the name of Sugar 
Tree Grove. 

There are within the limits of this description, and south of the main 
Alleghany ridge, 3 houses of public worship, (Methodist,) 2 tan yards, 2 
mercantile stores, and a sufficient number of common schools, for the edu- 
cation of youth, with various mechanics. From the main Alleghany ridge 
northwestward, this part of the county is divided into five valleys, by as 
many different parallel ridges of mountains. The first valley is watered by 
the south fork of the south branch of Potomac, and is situated between the 
Shenandoah and Thorn mountains. — The south fork has its rise in the S. 
W. part of the county, within a few hundred yards of the head spring of 
the Cowpasture river, which flows the other way. From the head of the 
south fork for about 18 miles down the stream, the land is of a sandy soil, 
and is arid, thin and unproductive, and every thing wears the aspect of po- 
verty. Proceeding a little lower down, the bottom begins to widen, the soil 
becomes more fertile, the farms are more enlarged and in a better state of 
cultivation and repair. " The manners and dress of the people discover more 
polish, — the hair of their flocks and herds has changed its weather-worn 
cleadness, for a slick and glossy coat, and every thing assumes the appear- 
ance of thriftiness and better living." The S. fork has but one tributary 
stream of any note, which it receives about ten miles from its source, and 
which is known by the name of Bushby's fork. There is one store on the 
head of the south fork. There are two others below this, — one about 20, 
the other about 30 miles, — the first is 15, the second 9, and the third 12 
miles from Franklin county seat. There are also four houses of public 
worship on this water, (3 Lutheran and 1 Union.) The first is 19, the se- 
cond 15, the third 10, and the fourth 13 miles from the county seat. The 
S. fork flows N. E. and after passing into Hardy county, empties into the 
S. branch of the Potomac, about 4 miles below the county line. The S. 
branch of the Potomac is formed by the junction of Streight and Crab 
creeks, Avhich have their rise in the N. W. part of the conntj^ and flow a 
N. E. course through the county, watering the valley which lays between 
the Thorn and N. fork mountains. The soil in this valley is' rich, and well 
adapted to grass and grain. In this valley are 4 houses of public worship, 
( 1 on the head of Streight creek, and 1 on Crab creek,) the former 20, the latter 
22 miles above Frajiklin, both of which belong to the Methodist; and I 
12 miles below, and another 13, one of which is Lutheran and the other 
Methodist. 

The S. branch is a pure and beautiful stream of water, and receives within 
this county the following streams: 3 miles above Franklin, the Black Thorn 
' — 10 miles below, RrctVs creek — and 3 miles b^'lowthis is Mill creek. Three 
miles above Franklin, there is a rich saltpetre cave, from which a vast quan- 
tity of nitre has been made, but the works are now idle. The entrance of 
the cave is a small aperture near the base of a small mountain, and it ex- 
tends under jrround for some miles. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON. 417 

The next portion in order, is the north fork valley, which is watered by 
the N. fork of the S. branch. It has its rise in the S. W. part of the county, 
and flows a N. E. course, and after passing into Hardy county empties into 
the S. branch a little below the county line, receiving in its course but one 
stream of any note, which is known by the name of Seneca. The land in 
this valley is good, and produces well both grass and grain. There are on 
the N. fork 2 houses of public worship, (both Methodist,) and 1 store. Be- 
tween this and the main Alle.^-hany mountain, there are two other ridges; 
the local names of which are Timber Ridge and Spruce mountain. The 
lands on these, as well as the other ridges of mountains in the county, are 
of tolerable soil, and but thinly settled; but they afford an excellent range 
for stock during the summer season, and give birth to a number of springs 
of the best water. There are 2 other tan yards in this county besides those 
already named. No merchant mills, but the valleys are well furnished 
with common grist mills, carding machines, — blacksmiths, and other me.= 
chanics. 

Population in 1820, 4,836— in 1830, 6,271. It belongs to the 14th 
judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,032 46 — in 1834 
on lol.s, $28 30— land, Jis656 38 — 280 slaves, $70 00—3530 horses, 
$211 80—24 stud.s, $104 50 — 2 coaches, $4 00— 16 carryalls, $16 00 — 
Total, $1090 98. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $515 43 
—in 1833, 8520 93. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, 6lq. 

Crab Run, P. V. 154 ms. N. W.|carpenters, I cabinet and chair maker, 
by W. of R. and 196 S. W. by W.jl printing office, 1 tailor. 2 black- 
of W., situated in the S. W. part of smiths, I gunsmith, and 2 boot and 
the county. A house of public en-ishoe makers. Population 250 per- 
tertainment, a grist and a saw miiJJsons; of vt'hom 2 are resident attor- 
a blacksmith's and a wheelwright's'neys, and 1 a regular physicisn. 
shop are located here. | County Courts are held on the 



FRANKLIN, P. V. and seat of 
justice, 171 ms. N. W. by W. of R. 
and the same distance S. W. by W. 
of W., in lat. 38° 42' and long. 2" 
26' W. of W. C, situated on the north 
bank of the South Branch of the Po- 
to^mac, 20 miles from its source. It 
contains besides the ordinary county 



Wednesday succeeding the 1st TueS' 
day in every month; — Quarterly in 
March, June, September and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 2d of May and Zd of Oc- 
tober. 



buildings, 30 dwelling houses, 1 com- Hull's Stork. P. O 164 miles 
mon school, 1 temperance and 1 bible from R. and 206 W of W 
society, 2 mercantile stores, 2 tan Oak Flat, P. O. 176 ms. from R. 
yards, 3 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 house|and 186 from W. 



POCAHONTAS. 

PocAHoxTAs was established by act of the General Assembly in the 
year 1821, and formed from a portion of the counties of Bath, Pendleton 
and Randolph. It i.'^ hounded N. by Randolph, — E. by the Alleghany 



4id 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— POCAHONTAS. 



mountains which separate it from Pendleton and Bath, — S. by Greenbrier, 
— and W. by Nicholas. Its mean length is 40 miles, mean breadth 17^; 
and its area 794 square miles: its mean lat. is 38° 20' N. and long. 3° W. 
of W. C. This county is one of the most elevated in the Union. Cheat 
river, a branch of the Monongahela, rises in the northern part, — Gauley 
river, a branch of the Great Kanawha, rises in the western part, and Green- 
brier river, a branch likewise of the Great Kanawha, rises in the extreme 
northeastern part, and flowing in a southwestern direction, nearly parallel 
with the main Alleghany range, passes through Greenbrier into Monroe, 
on the border of which it unites with New river. Knapp^s creek, the largest 
tributar}' which the Greenbrier receives in this county, rises at the foot ot 
the Alleghany, flows for some distance along its base, and then turning at 
right angles flows north west by Huntersville, and emptier into the Green- 
brier a few miles below that town. The mean height of the arable soil of 
Greenbrier county is 1700 feet above the level of the ocean, and as it is 
situated lower down on the Greenbrier than the county of Pocahontas, it 
is fair to presume that the height of the lowest part of the latter must be 
at least equal to 1800 teet above the ocean, which is equivalent to four de- 
grees of latitude. Greenbrier mountain enters Pocahontas on the N. E. 
and passes, through to the S. W. — from its western side flow Gauley and 
Elk rivers. The surface is very broken and rocky, but the southern part 
is quite productive of all the staples common to the same latitude, — towards 
the northeast the land is more barren. The principal timber which it pro- 
duces is white and black spruce, yew, pine, white oak, rhesnut, sugar 
maple, hickory, beeciw^-wainut, buck-eye, &.c. &.c. The inhabitants are 
honest, industrious, hospitable and enterprising citizens. Population in 
18S0, 2,541. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax 
paid in 1833, $386 09— in 1834 on lots, $13 9-2— on land $199 36—136 
slaves, $34 00—1 154 horses, 892 76—6 studs, $29 00—1 coach, $2 00— 
2 carryalls, $2 25. Tola] $37.3 29. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren ia-I«32, -.$21 1 29-^n 1833,8157 28, 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, »fec. 



CackleyJs P. O. 202 ms. N. W. 
by W. of R. and ,244 from W., situ- 
ated 2 ms. W. of Gre/eu]jjfier jiver, 
immediately on the main post road 
leading from Huntersville to Lewis- 
burg, 12 ms. S. W. of the former. 
and 36 N. E. of' the latter place. It 
contains, severar dwelling houses, 1 
mercantile store, 1 oil mill, 1 carding 
machine, I tan yard, &cc. &c. The 
country around is mostly level and 
fertile, producing well Indian corn, 
wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, flax, &.C., 
and is an excellent grass country. 
This is called the Little Levels. Firs: 
rate springs abound in almost every 
direction, and most or iall of them 
sink again after running a short dis- 
ance. 



Green B.\n'k, P. O. 200 ms. from 
R. and 242 W. of W., situated on the 
north bank of Deer creek, six miles 
above its intersection with the Green- 
brier river, and 19 north of Hunters- 
ville. This is merely a post office, 
situated in the heart of a thickly set- 
tled neighborhood, which contains 1 
house of public worship, free for all 
denominations, called Deer Creek 
Union Meeting House, 5 common 
schools, 1 well organized temperance, 
bible, tract and sundav school society, 
with a considerable library, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, several excellent coun- 
try mills, and various other mechan- 
ics. The land of the surrounding 
country is beautiful'y diversified by 
hill and dale. The soil is rich, pro- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— POCAHONTAS. 



419 



ducing in abundance wheat, rj'e, oats, 
corn, &c. The principal pursuits of 
the inhabitants are grazing and rais- 
ing stock. There are large quanti- 
ties of butter, venison hams, <fcc. tak- 
en to market from this section of 
country. The inhabitants are also 
expert in the manufacture of sugar 
from the maple tree. There is a very 
great curiosity in the meanders of 
Doer creek. About 5 miles below 
Green Bank, the creek runs several 
miles round a considerable hill, and 
thence back within thirty poles of the 
place it had passed, affording some 
fine seats for manufactories, with sul"- 
ficient water power to force machinery 
to any extent. 

HUNTERSVILLE, P V. and 
county seat, 191 ms. N W by W. 
of R. and 233 S. W. by W. oif W., 
situated in lat. 38° 12' N. and long. 
3^ r W. of W. C. It is situated be- 
tween Greenbrier and Alleghany 
mountains, at an elevation above the 
Atlantic of upwards of 1,800 feet, on 
Knapp's creek, 6 miles from its junc- 
tion with the Greenbrier river. It 
contains besides the usual county 
buildings, 23 dwelling houses, (most- 
ly frame,) 3 mercantile storet., 2 ta- 
verns, and 1 school in which the or- 
dinary branches of English educa- 
tion are taught, 2 tailors, 2 house car- 
penters and cabinet makers, I boot 
and shoe maker, and 1 blacksmith 
shop. There are in this place 2 well 
organized bible classes, and 1 temper- 
ance society. A turnpike road has 
lately been located from the Warm 
Springs in Bath county to Hunters- 
ville, thence to intersect the north- 
western road between Clarksburg and 
Parkersburg, or to strike the Ohio 
river below the latter place. The 
road when finished will add greatly 
to the advancement of this village 
and the surrounding country, there 
being as fine lands in this section as 
perhaps in any part of Virginia. 
Huntersville is 22 miles from the 
Warm Springs, 65 from Beverly in 



I Randolph co. and 48 from Lewisburg 
in Greenbrier county. There are 
near this village two sulphur springs, 
snid to possess good qualities. Popu- 
lation 12-5 persons; of whom 1 is a 
resident attorney. 

CoutUy Courts are held on the \st 
Tuesday in every month ; Quarterly 
in March, June, August, and Novem- 
ber. 

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 2d of May and October. 

M.\TTHEwsviLLE, P O. 205 ms. 
from R. and 247 W. of W., situated 
on the main post road leading from 
Huntersville to Clarksburg, the coun- 
ty seat of Harrison, 15 miles from 
the former, and on Settlington's creek, 
a branch of the Greenbrier, 2^ miles 
from its junction with the river. This 
post office is located in a densely set- 
tled neighborhood, in its immediate 
vicinity are a considerable number 
of scattering dwelling houses, 1 house 
of public worship, (Presbyterian,) 1 
school house and 1 merchant mill, 
with a population of about 400 The 
land of the surrounding country is 
fertile, - producing wheat, rye. oats, 
6cc.. but i.s more generally famed for 
fine meadow and pasture grounds. 

Knapp's Cre^k, PC. 242 ms. S. 
W. of W. 

Traveller's Repose, P. O. 179 
ms from R. and 221 S. W. by W. of 
W:, »itu«*»d in a thickly settled neiifh- 
borhood, on the head of Greenbrier, 
between the north and east forks of 
that river, immediately on the main 
post road leading from Staunton to 
Clarksburg, and 32 m«. from Hun- 
tersville, the county seat. It contains 
12 dwelling house, 1 tavern, 1 store; 
and several mechanice, The soil is 
productive of wheat, rye, oats, buck- 
wheat, potatoes, &LC., affording excel- 
lent pasturage for stock. It is hound= 
ed by \'arious mountains, the most 
noted is the Alleghany en the east, 
the Laurel Ridge on the west, and the 
EUi mountain on the north — which 



420 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PRESTON. 

still abounds with the elk. The soil (is frequently met with here. The 
of these mountains is rich and affords Cheat mountain turnpike runs thro' 
immense ranges for cattle, &c. The this place and the mail is received 
timber is generally sugar maple, once a week on horseback, 
chesnut, oak, and pine. The fir tree 



PRESTON. 

Preston was created by the Legislature in 1818, from a portion of 
Monongalia county. It is bounded N. by Fayette county of Pennsylvania, 
— E. by Alleghany county of Maryland, — S. by Randolph, — and W. by 
Monongalia. Its mean length is 30 miles, mean breadth 20; and area 601 
square miles. Its mean lat. is 39° 30' and long. 2° 38' W. of VV. C. Its 
extent and population have been somewhat increased, though we do not 
know precisely to what degree, since the taking of the last census and the 
publication of Boyee's map of the State, by extending its eastern border to 
the "Fairfax Stone," situated at the extreme southAvestern angle of Mary- 
land. The main Alleghany chain runs near the eastern border of this 
county, and the Chesnut ridge separates it from Monongalia on the west. 
The body of the county is a valley between these two chains. Cheat river 
enters the southern side and winds to the N. ^S\ dividing the county into 
two nearly equal sections. 

The general face of the county is mountainous, interspersed on the east- 
ern and western sides with large natural meadows called "glades," which 
afford support for large herds of cattle in summer, and in winter also, when 
it is mown and cured lor winter food. The glades are destitute of timber 
but covered in summer with gra?.^ and weeds, with frequent projecting 
points of timber, low bushes, &.c. The soil of this section of the county 
is better suited to grass than grain, though small quantities of corn and 
wheat are grown in the glades, and abundant crops of cats, buckwheat and 
rye. The alluvial or bottom grounds are sm.all but productive and many 
of the mountain and hill sides produce abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, 
oats, &.C. The principal water is Cheat river, about 180 yards Avide at the 
Dunkard Bottom.; though branches of the iMonongahela and Youghiogany 
water a large part of the county. The general strata of rock so far as 
known, is a kind of sand stone, occasional portions of which are intermixed 
with flinty pebbles so compact as to be used for mill stones to advantage ; 
but much oi it is easily wrought for building houses, &c. Slate and lime- 
stone is common ; the county is abundantly supplied with bituminous coal, 
and specimens of iron ore are often found. Population in 1820, 3,480 — 
1830, 5,144. This county belongs to the twentieth judicial circuit, and 
tenth district. Tax paid in 1833, $437 91— in 1834 on lotg, $24 54— 
land $264 31—56 slaves, $14 00—1882 horses, $112 92—17 studs, 
i73 50—2 carryalls, $3 00. Total $492 97. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1832, $306 94— in 1833, $361 92. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Brandonville, P. V^ 280 ms. N.ja newly settled village, pleasantly 
W. o{ R and 202 from \V. This islsituated' in the centre^ of a rapidly 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— PRESTON. 



421 



improving neighborhood, in the north- 
ern section of the county, about four 
miles from the Pennsylvania line, on 
the road leading from Smithfield in 
Pennsylvania to Morgantown, Vir- 
ginia. It contains 20 dwelling- 
houses, 1 house of public worship, 
(Methodi.'^it,) 1 tavern, I tan yard, 1 
saddler, I hatter, I wagon maker, 2 
cabinet makers, 1 wheelwright and 
chair maimer. 1 silversmith, 1 tailor, 
I blacksmith shop, 2 mercantile 
store.s, I common school, 1 temperance 
and 1 colonization society. Popula- 
tion 100. 

EvANsviLLE, P. O. situated in the 
Avestern part of the county, near the 
north western turnpike road. 

German Skttle>ient, P. O. 270 
ms. from R. and 270 N. W. by W. 
of VV. situated IS ms. S. E. of Kings- 
wood. This settlement, in the midst 
of which is situated a small village 
called Mount Carniel, took its name 
from its first settlers, who were (Ger- 
mans. It contain-^ between 80 and 
100 dwelling houses, besides me- 
chanic's shops, (fcc , 1 house oi' public 
worship, free for all denominations, 2 
mercantile stores, 8 grist mills, 4 sjiw 
mills, I wool carding machine, 2 tan 
yards, 2 gun smiths, 4 blacksmith 
shops, 1 wheelwright, I wagon ma- 
ker, 1 millwright, several house car- 
penters, cabinet makers, house-join- 
ers, 6cc. But the principal pursuit 
of the inhabitants is agriculture. 
This settlement is watered by the 
Youghiogany,the north fork of which 
heads near Mount Carmel, and is 
known by the name of Ryan creek. 
Wolf creek which empties into Cheat 
river, also heads near this place. The 
soil is of the first quality, and pro- 
ductive of all kinds of grain; and es- 
pecially productive of grass. An 
abundance of potatoes and turnips are 
raised in this section of country. 
The climate is cool and salubrious. 
Pure springs of never failing water 
flow in abundance through this set- 
tlsmem. The principal staple com- 



modities raised for market, are live 
stock of every discription, and large 
quantities of butter of the first quali- 
ity, &c. This settlement, like many 
others in Western Virginia, has been 
sealed up ever since the settling of 
the same, for want of suitable roads 
for transportation through the Alle- 
ghany mountains in order to unite in 
commerce with the eastern country. 
The northwestern turnpike road of 
Virginia from Winchester to Par- 
kersburg, passes immediately through 
(he GJernian Settlement. This road 
is in rapid progress, and there is no 
grade through the Alleghany moun- 
tains that e.xceeds four and a half de- 
grees. This appropriation of money 
by the Legislature of Virginia is of 
the greatest utility to this section of 
the State. The number of families 
which may be called attached to this 
settlement will not exceed 7 0, the ag 
gregate number of inhabitants about 
500. and what may be further worthy 
of remark (in Virginia,) that in this 
number are noi more than three or 
four blacks. 

KING WOOD, P. V. and seat 
of jns'ticp, 261 ms. Irom R. and 183 
N.W. by W. of VV., in lat. 39° 27' 
N. and long. 2° 45' W. of W. C, 
situated on a beautiful and healthy 
eminence, 2 ms. W. of Cheat river, 
20 E. of Morgantown, 43 from 
Clai'ksburg, in Harrison countj% and 
60 from Beverly, in Randolph county. 
It contains besides the ordinary coun- 
ty buildings, which are substantially 
built of stone, 25 dwelling houses, 3 
mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, and va- 
rious mechanics. Population about 
150 persons; of whom 3 are resi- 
dent attorneys, and 1 a regular phy- 
sician. 

County Courts are held on the 2£? 
Monday in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, May. Attgusl and Ao- 
i- ember. 

Judge Fry holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Court of Law and Chancery 
on the ist of Api il, and September. 



422 WESTERN VIRGIMA— RANDOLPH. 

RANDOLPH. 

Randolph AVas established by act of Assembly in the year 1787, and 
formed from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Preston, — 
N. E. by the Alleghany mountain, which separates it from Hardy, — E. by 
the same mountain, separating it from Pendleton, — S. by Pocahontas, — S. 
W. by Nicholas, — W. by Lewis and Harrison, — and N. W. by Mononga- 
lia. Its mean length is 66^ miles diminished by the difference which would 
be occasioned by taking from it that portion which is laid down in our 
maps as co-terminous with Maryland, — which has been added to Preston, — 
its mean breadth 31; and it.s area 2,0til square miles, diminished by the 
area of the above space alluded to: extending in lat. from about 38"^ 18' to 
39^ 1 r N. and m long, from about 2° 15' to 3° 28' W. of W. C. 

This county is one of the finest on the western side of the Alleghany 
mountains, and is made up of several parallel ranges of mountains with 
their intervening vallies. I'he largest of these mountains commencing on 
the east is the Alleghany, which runs north and south dividing this county 
from Pendleton; the next in order are Rich, Middle and Shaver mountains, 
running in the same direction. At the foot of the latter, flows Shaver's 
Fork, which is stocked with some of the finest fish which the western wa- 
ters afibrd. This stream empties into the Monongahela, 12 miles below 
Morgantown. The next mountain is the Valley mountain, which derives 
its name from Tygart's valley. This valley constitutes a considerable por- 
tion of the county, being about 35 miles in length, and 2 in breadth, and a 
body of as fine land as any in Western Virginia, and in a high state of im- 
provement. Through this valley fiows the middle branch of the Mononga- 
hela, or Tygart's valley river, to which it gives source. The next moun- 
tain is the Laurel, which runs also a north and south course, the whole 
length of the valley; at the extremity of which it makes a bend and takes 
a northeast direction, till it meets Cheat river, whence it flows nearly in a 
north course, till it enters the State of Pennsylvania. At the foot of Ty- 
gart's valley, where the Laurel hill makes its angle to the east, Chester river 
breaks through the mountain. The valley and mountains presenting the 
strongest evidence that at some early day they had formed a lake. These 
mountains afford some of the finest streams of ^vater in W^estern Virginia, 
the principal of which are the Dry fork — Laurel fork — Glade fork — and 
Shaver's fork — all handsome streams, having their rise in the S. W. part of 
the county, running parallel within a few miles of each other, and after tra- 
versing a considerable distance through the county emptying into Cheat river. 
The mountains are well stocked with the finest timber, such as every de- 
scription of the oak, poplar, cherry, pine, fir, red cedar, &c. — and they are 
almost a mass of stone coal and iron ore. The soil of these mountains is 
very rich, and abounds with lime stone, slate and freestone. In some parts 
of these mountains are found small caverns or caves, in which is found a 
kind of copperas — fit for dye, and which is used for that purpose, — and 
along some of the water courses is found the allum peeping out of the joints 
of the rocks, forming in the shape of icicles. Among all these watercourses 
and low ground.s are found salt springs. There has been salt made to a 
considerable amount, but for the want of funds and men of enterprise, these 
useful minerals remain in their natural state. 

In this county are a considerable number of fine sto^k farms, which graze 
and raise annually for market live'stock of every description, which is the 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— RANDOLPH. 



423 



principal source of its wealth. There were raised and sent to market from 
this county during the past year ending Nov'r 1st, 1833, 1,500 head of 
horned cattle, 300 sheep, and 100 horses. 

Population in 1830, 5,000. It belongs to the 18th judicial circuit, and 
9th district. Tax paid in 1833, ^G18— in 1834, on lots, $16 56 — on land, 
85403 93— 144 slaves. S36 00— 2133 horses, S127 98— 8 studs, $46 00 — 
3 coaches, $6 00—3 carryalls, $3 00— Total, $639 47. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $280 64 — in 1833, $600 09. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



BEVERLY, P. V. and seat of 
jtisdcr., 210 ms. N. W. by W. of R, 
and 221 S. W. of W.— in lat. 38° 50' 
N. and long. 2° 55' W. of VV. C— 
situated near the centre of Tygarl'.s 
Valley, near Tygart's Valley river, 
on a handsome plain, .stretched out be- 
tween Phiilis's creek, and Dotsoii's 
run. The former entering the river 
a little above, and the latter about a 
quarter of a mile below the town. — 
Beverly contains besides the public 
buildmgs, 3 mercantile stores, 2 ta- 
verns, 1 common school, 1 tanyard, 2 
saddlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 3 
blacksmith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon 
maker, 1 house carpenter, 2 tailors, 
<fcc. — This village is distant GO miles 
nearly due S. from Morgantown, in 
Monongalia county, and 45 S. E. o( 
Clarksburg, in Harrison county. The 
Valley river has its source in the 
mountain, and courses along nearly in 
a northwardly direction through the 
valley. The land on its borders pos- 
sesses a considerable degree of fertili- 
tj^; and the eye in traversing it be- 
holds some fine mountain scenery, 
(being completely environed with 
spurs of the Alleghany mountain,) as 
well as some handsome farms in a 
high state of cultivation. Proceeding 
down the Valley, at difTerent points 
from 12 to 18 miles below the town, 
common roads cross the mountains, 
leading to the lower, and thickly set- 
tled parts of the county. As we pro- 
ceed down the Valley, at various in- 
tervals, fine farms, mercantile stores, 
and houses of public worship, for 
Presbyterians, Baptists and Metho- 



dists, are met Avith. This village con- 
tains a population of 166 whites, of 
whom two are resident attornies, and 
two regular physicians, — 16 slaves 
and 2 free colored — Total, 184. 

Coioiti/ Courts are held on the itk 
Moudri'i/ in every month; — Quarter- 
ly in March, June, Avgust and No- 
vember. 

Circuit Superior Courtsof Law and 
Chancery are held on the 19/A of A- 
pril and l3^/i September by Judge 
Duncan. 

BiLLSBUUG, p. O. 240 ms. from R. 
and 224 from W. 

Boothe's Ferry, P. O. 240 ms. 
from R. and 299 W. of W.— Situated 
on the east side of Tygart's Valley 
river, 20 ms. N. W. of Beverly, and 
30 S. E. of Clarksburg, in Harrison 
county. Two considerable streams 
enter Tygart's Valley river above this 
P. O. Middle river 7 miles above, 
and Buchanan river only four and a 
half miles above. The P. O. is lo- 
cated on a. farm of rich bottom lands. 
There are located at this point 3 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 saw and 1 grist mill 
running two pair of stones, and a 
wool carding machine. There are in 
the vicinity tour coal banks, two of 
which are within a few yards of the 
boat landing; there is also a great 
quantity of iron ore of the best quali- 
ty, within a few yards of the river 
and near the coal banks. The soil is 
good, and produces corn, v/heat, rye, 
oats, &c. in abundance, and is equal 
to any country for timothy and clover. 
The river is the line of separation be- 
tween Harrison and Randolph for 



424 



WESTERN VIRGIN lA— ROCKBRI DGE. 



about 41 miles above, and as far be- 
Jow as this county extends. It is about 
40 miles to the mouth of this river, at 
which point it unites with the West fork 
river and becomes the Monongahela. 
The river at this place is about 120 
yards wide, and has to be crossed in 
a boat about 8 months in tlie year. 
The road leading from Clarksburg 
crosses at this ferry. The northwest- 
ern turnpike has been laid out to cross 
about 16 miles below. 

(tl.vdv ('keek Ckoss Roads, P. 
O. 244 ms. from R. and 220 from W. 

HiiTTONsviLLE, P. O. 199 uiiles 
from R. and 231 W. of W. C. 

Lekdsvili.e, p. V. 218 ms. from 
R. and 229 from AV. — situated at the 
passage of Tygart's Valley river, 
through the Laurel mountain, 8 ms. 
N. N. E. of Beverly, on the main 
post road leading from Philadelphia 
and Baltimore through Winchester to 



Pittsylvania, Pa. This is merely a 
post office, situated on a farm in the 
midst of a flourishing part of the 
country. 

MiEGsviLLE, P. V. 256 ms. from R. 
and 208 W. of W. It contains 5 
dwelling houses, 1 house of entertain- 
ment, 1 gunsmith, 1 blacksmith's shop, 
1 tanyard, 1 saddler and a distillery. 
In this little village i.-? established a 
small ingenious weaving manufactory, 
with several looms of various descrip- 
tions, executing a variety of figured 
work. The soil of the surrounding 
country is rich; and stone coal is eve- 
ry where close at hand. 

Skidmore's p. O. — The distances 
are not given on the P. O. list. 

Western Ford, P. O. 240 ms. 
W. of R. and 25 1 from W. 

W"vatt's Ferry, P. O. 245 niS. 
from R. and 229 from W. 



ROCKBRIDGK. 



Rockbridge was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and formed 
from a portion of Augusta and Botetourt counties. It is hounded N. by 
Augusta, — E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Nelson, — S. E. 
by the same mountain, separating it from Amherst, — S. by Bedford, — S. W. 
by Botetourt, and W. by Alleghany and Mill mountains, a portion of the 
Great Kittatinnv chain which separates it from Alleghany, and N. W. by 
the same separating it from Bath. Its mean lat. is about 37^ 45' N. and 
long. 2° 30' W. of W. C. — Its mean length is 31 mean breadth 22; and 
area 680 square n)iles. This county is principally watered by North river, 
branch of James river, and its tributaries. It flows diagonally through the 
county from the N. W. to the S. E. and joins the main branch of James 
river at the foot of the Blue Ridge, when their united Avaters force a passage 
through. The name of this county is taken from the celebrated Natural 
Bridge, of which an account is given below. There are in the county 10 
mercantile stores, 6 iron forges, three furnaces, 13 hou.ses of public wor- 
ship, (of which 9 are Presbyterian,) and 24 grist and merchant mills; 
besides those mentioned in the Towns, Villages, &c. IMuch of the soil is 
of the first quality, and generally in a high state of cultivation. 

Population in l'820, 1 1,945— in 1830, 14.244. It belongs to the 12th judi- 
cial circuit, and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $3131 41 — in 1334, on 
lots, $208 58— on land, $1831 33—2037 slaves, $509 25—5250 horses, 
$315 00—21 studs, $206 00—37 coaches, $98 21—21 carryalls, $21 70 
— 7 gigs, $5 20 — Total, ^3195 27. Expended in educating poor children 
in 1832, $873 76— in 1533, ^748 40. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



4^ 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Balcony Falls, P. O. 153 ms. 

from R. and 210 S. W. by W. of W. 
These falls are situated on James ri- 
ver, near the western extremity of the 
James river canal, and form the divid- 
ing line between the counties of Rock- 
bridge, Bedford, and Amherst. The 
scenery near this spot is highly pic- 
turesque. After toiling for a consid- 
erable distance through A wild and 
rugged country — onturningthe sharp 
angle of the mountain, the river sud- 
denly expands to the breadth, and as- 
sumes the quiet and placid appearance 
of a lake. Immediately opposite, two 
of the most stupendous peaks of the 
BIU9 Ridge, rise directly from the 
banks. The whole stream is suddenly 
narrowed by the projecting sides of 
the mountain, and precipitates itself 
in one entire sheet over an artificial 
dam, which is extended across the bed 
of the river, between the most elevat- 
ed points of the peaks. After the fall 
the tumultuous stream is soon lost 
sight of, by the windings of the chan- 
nel. The dam was erected for the 
purpose of supplying with its back 
water that portion of the canal which 
runs upon the edge of the fall. This 
portion of the canal, seven miles in 
extent, was constructed by the state at 
the cost of $280,000, About two 
miles of this canal is in the county of 
Rockbridge. 

Bath Iron Works, P. O. 167 
ms. W. of R. and 209 S. W. by W. 
of W. — Situated in the southern part 
of the county, on the northeastern 
bank of James river, within ten miles 
of its source, — 15 miles from Lexing- 
ton, — and 22 from the Warm Springs 
in Bath county. These works con- 
sist of a furnace and forge, both built 
on an extensive scale — the furnace is 
40 feet high, and calculated for mak- 
ing 30 tons of pig iron pr. week, but 
has never yet reached that amount. 
The forge is built for running six 
fires, and will annually forge 300 ton? 
54 



of bar iron — The furnace 700 tons of 
pig metal, and a large quantity of 
castings. The two consuming 300 
thousand bushels of charcoal per an- 
num. The number of operatives em- 
ployed are sixty-five. Yet there are 
something like 150 persons supported 
by its operations, including women 
and children. Attached to this es- 
tablishment is a large farm, a part of 
which, supposed to be 350 acres, is 
first rate bottom land, — by which the 
proprietors are enabled to raise nearly 
their full supply of grain; the quan- 
tity required being 4,500 bushels; — 
from 3,000 to 3,500 bushels of which 
are raised annually from the farm. — 
This establishment is owned by 
Messrs. A. W. & M. W. Davis. 

Belle Valley, P. O. 147 ms. W. 
of R. and 188 S. W. by W. from W. 
— Situated in the northeastern part of 
the county. 

Brownsburg, p. V. 143 ms. N. 
W. of R. and 185 from W.— Situated 
12 miles N. E. of Lexington, on Maf- 
fits creek, and on the direct route from 
Staunton to Lexington. It contains 
20 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile 
stores, 1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 

2 tailors, 3 wheelwrights, 1 cabinet 
maker, 2 smith shops, 2 boot and shoe 
factories, 1 house carpenter, 1 hatter, 
1 manufacturing flour mill, and 1 grist 
mill. In the immediate vicinity there 
is a large and spacious house of pub- 
lic worship, long known by the name 
of Neto Providence meeting house. 
Population 120 persons; of whom 

3 are physicians, Brownsburg is lo- 
cated in a flourishing and thickly set- 
tled neighborhood. 

Buffalo Forge, P. O. 156 ms, 
from R. and 206 from W. — Situated 
8 miles W. of Lexington. 

Cedar Grove, P. O 145 ms. N. 
W. of R. — Situated ten miles N. E, 
of Lexington, It contains 2 mercan- 
tile store:., ^ind 1 manufacturing flour 
mill. 



426 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



Fairfield, P. O. 144 ms. from 
R. and 1S6 from W. — Situated on one 
of the post routts from Lexington to 
Staunton, 13 ms. N. N. E. from the 
former, and 24 from the latter. It 
contains aboiit 20 dwelling houses, 1 
house of public worship, free for all 
denominations, 2 ta seres, 1 iTi<^rcan(ile 
store, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 2 house carpenters and 
I smith's shop. Population 130 per- 
sons; of whom 2 are physicians. 

Fancy Hill, P. O. 164 ms. from 
R. and 205 S. W. of W. It is plea- 
santly situated nine miles from Lex- 
ington, in a fertile, and well watered 
country. It contains several dwelling 
houses. 1 mercantile store, 1 extensive 
tavern, well kept, and v/hich receives 
much coatpany in the summer season, 
and i tailor's shop. A physician re- 
sides here. 

Lebanon Forge, situated on the 
North fork of James river. These 
iron works, owned by Messrs. Ma^ 
tkews t5' Bri/a?i, are now in extensive 
operation, manufacturing pig metal 
into bar iron. The establishment con- 
sists of a forge, with a smith's shop 
and saw mill as appendages. The 
apparatus employed consists of three 
refining fires, one chafry which draws 
bar iron, and two forge hammers, 
weighing from five to six hundred 
weight each. The average amount 
manufactured at this forge, from the 
metal, or pigs, is one hundred and iif- 
ly tons of bar iron annually. It re- 
quires 225 tons of metal, or pigs, to 
make 150 tons of bar iron. The 
number of operatives necessarily em- 
ployed at this establishment, in manu-l 
facturing the iron, are 35, and the ag- 
gregate number of persons supported 
by it are 70. Ten hands are employ- 
ed in making the iron, 2 in the black- 
smith's shop, 1 sawyer, 4 colliers, 8 
wood cutters, 2 wood carriers, 1 wa- 
goner, 5 farmers, I clerk and mana 
ger, and 1 overseer, the balance being 
women and children; — out of the 35 
actively employed, 8 have families, — 



In the vicinity of this forge is a house 
of public worship, (Methodist,) and 1 
manufacturing flour mill. One mile 
below this establishment is located 
Maburri/'s Iron Works, employing 
the same number of operatives as the 
one above, the same quanthy of ma- 
chinery, and manufacturing the same 
weight of bar iron annually. The 
country around is rich, and abounds 
with iron ore of the first quality. 

LEXINGTON, P. T. and Seat of 
Justice, 156 ms. N. W. of R. and 198 
from W. in lat. 37° 14' N. and long. 
2° 21' W. of W. C— situated on a 
gentle ascent, a few rods from the 
north bank of the North river, a 
branch of James river, 1 miles above 
its junction, and 35 N. W. of Lynch- 
burg. The act of Assembly of 1778, 
which authorised the formation of the 
county, also directed the location of 
this town. Its buildings, like those 
of all new towns, were constructed of 
wood. In 1794 they were nearly all 
destroyed by fire, — since that time, 
they have been erected of more dura- 
ble materials, and with more regard 
to regularity. The number of houses 
it now contains, besides the ordinary 
county buildings, are about 150, most- 
ly of brick, with 2 bouses of public 
worship, (1 Presbyterian and 1 Metho- 
dist.) There are 8 mercantile stores, 
4 taverns, 1 book store, 1 printing of- 
fice, from which a weekly paper is 
issued, 2 tinplate works, 2 watch ma- 
kers and silversmiths, 3 hatters, 2 wa- 
gon makers, 2 tanyards, 5 saddlers, 5 
boot and shoe factories, 2 blacksmiths, 
2 cabinet makers, 4 house carpenters 
and I bricklayer. 

Lexington was formerly the great 
thoroughfare to the west, from the 
more eastern parts of Virginia, and 
though other more direct routes have 
been established, it still continues to 
be much travelled, by wagons from 
Tennessee to Baltimore, &c. laden 
with such articles, as will return 
an ample profit, besides defraying 
the expenses of transportation, ifcc. 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



427 



such as beeswax, tallow, feathers, and i 
other articles of produce. These wa- 
gons return laden with goods for the 
western merchants. 

In the vicinity of Lexington is a 
state arsenal, in which are deposited 
about 30,000 stand ot arms, guarded 
by a Captain and 30 men. 

An Academy was incorporated in 
this town in 1782, under the name of 
Liberty Hall Academy; and in 1812 
it Avas chartered as a college, called 
Washington College, from Gene- 
ral Washington, who endowed it with 
100 shares in the James river canal, 
which produced, in 1821, an annual 
income of $2,400. "This donation 
constitutes the only part of its funds 
that are now productive, and may be 
estimated at $25,000. Its other funds 
consist also of donations, one devised 
by a private citizen of Lexington, es- 
timated at $50,000, when relieved 
from certiiin debts of the testator, and 
another from the Cincinnati Society 
of Virginia, on their voluntary disso- 
lution, amounting to $15,000, but not 
yet drawn out of the hands in which 
it was deposited; making in all $90,- 
000." There are two buildings of 
brick, which afford accommodations 
for 50 or 60 students; and a library 
of 1,500 volumes. It is pleasantly 
situated; its expenses for education 
are not high; but its students have 
nevei been very numerous. — Number 
in 1833, 46. 

A large, handsome and capacious 
brick building has lately been erected, 
intended for the philosophical appa- 
ratus, &c. which are sufficiently am- 
ple. The faculty consists of a presi- 
dent, two profess Drs, and a tutor. 

Ann Smith Academy is also lo- 
cated in this town for the education of 
young ladies. It occupies a large and 
handsome edifice, in which are teach- 
ers of all the requisite branches of 
such an institution. There are three 
public libraries in this town. I 

Population not given in the tabular 
returns of the last census, but supposed 



to be about 900 persons; of whom 9 are 
attorneys, and 4 regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 
Monday before the \st Tuesday in 
every month; — Quarterly iu March, 
June, August and November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and 
Chancery are held on the 16 /A of A- 
priland Se/?/e/;!i*e/-, by Judge Thomp- 
son. 

Natural Bridge, P. O. 172 ms. 
S. W. of R. and 21 3 S. W. by W. of 
W. — situated in the southern part of 
the countj% in lat. 37° 33' N. and long. 
2° 34' W. of W. C. 

We present a faithful description of 
this extraordinarj'^ natural curiosity 
from the notes of a traveller, published 
not long since in the periodical press. 

" By the uniform admission of all 
those who have visited this great natu- 
ral curiosity, it has justly acquired a 
celebrity unequalled by any other in 
this country, and the increasing num- 
ber of visiters to this place, still con- 
tinues to awaken the attention of the 
curious and philosophic throughout 
ihe world. Its location is in the coun- 
ty of Rockbridge, to which it gives 
name, 15 miles from Lexington, and 
45 from Lynchburg, through one of 
which places it is usually approached 
by strangers. The mean height of 
the bridge, from the stream running 
underneath it to its upper surface, is 
215 feet 6 inches, its average width is 
80 foct, its length, measured across 
from the indentations on either side of 
the high and nearly perpendicular 
rocks upon which it rests, is 93 feet, 
and its thickness, on both sides, is 55 
feet. 

The stupendous arch constituting 
the bridge is of lime stone lock, co- 
vered to the depth of from 4 to 6 feet 
with alluvial and clayey earth, and 
based upon huge rocks of the same 
geological character, the summits of 
which are 90 feet, and their bases 50 
feet asunder, and whose rugged sides 
form the wild and awful chasm span- 
ned by the bridge. The bridge is 



428 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



guarded, as if by the design of nature, 
by a parapet of rocks, and by trees 
and shrubbery, firmly embedded in 
the soil, so that a person travelling 
the stage road running over it, would, 
if not informed of the curiosity, pass 
it unnoticed. It is also worthy of re- 
mark, that the creation of a natural 
bridge at this place has contributed, 
in a singular manner, to the conve- 
nience of man, inasmuch as the deep 
ravine over which it sweeps, and 
through which traverses the beautiful 
" Cedar Creek," is not, otherwise, 
easily passed for several miles, either 
above or below the bridge; and, con- 
sequently, the road running from north 
to south with an aclivity of 35 degrees, 
presents the same appearance in soil, 
growth of trees and general charac- 
ter, with that of the neighboring scene- 
ry. The bridge is not to be seen, 
therefore, in its native grandeur and 
sublimity by passing over or around 
it, but only from a position- nearly un- 
der it, or within the valley near by. 

The first view commonly obtained 
by strangers of the bridge, or iis conti- 
guous scenery, is by an eager approach 
to the edge of the bridge, or to the brink 
pf the right of it, <fe looking over into the 
gulf below. Here language is inca- 
pable of expressing the emotions with 
which the scene is viewed, nor is it 
possible for the imagination to sketch 
the scene in a manner to equal the re- 
ality. The spectator becomes sudden- 
ly and forcibly impressed with the 
apparent danger of his situation, and 
trembling with fear, he involuntary 
shrinks back and crouches to the 
earth. As he approaches the brink 
of the precipice, his eye is attracted to 
the broad mass of perpendicular rock 
upon the opposite side of the chasm, 
and as he nears the jutting crags and 
throws the sight along down the wild 
and rugged sides, now boldly opposed 
to his view, — straining with anxious 
gaze to find a resting place, still per- 
ceiving no termination to the yawn- 
ing abyss, a shuddering horror comes 



over him, and a wild delirium seizes 
his senses, and he uncorisciously re- 
coils from the unfathomable gloom, 
and the awful gulf below him ! Has- 
tening from the spot, he becopnes con- 
scious only of the irresistible influ- 
ence of the mind over the body, on 
recognizing himself removed fron> 
the scene of danger, still he is haunt- 
ed by the ideas to which the scene has 
given birth, and which, resting unwil- 
lingly upon his mind, often lash his 
feelings into agonies! 

Such are, indeed, the perceptions 
and reflections of those of livply sen- 
sibility and active cautiousness, who, 
for the first time, visit this wonderful 
and magnificent scenery; yet there 
are those Avho view it with apparent 
insensibility and unconsciousness, and 
who steadily look down into the abyss, 
"yet never suffer joint to tremble." 

This view of " the great natural 
curiosity" hoAvever, is but partial, and 
even yet, incapable of calling up those 
ideas of sublimity and greatness which 
are afforded the spectator by another 
position. Turning around the elevatr 
ed ground north of the bridge, and 
coming gradually along to its south- 
ern base, then winding around an 
abrupt point of the hill, the anxious 
spectator is brought into a foot path 
declining along the rocks, beside the 
pliff on the one side and the busy lit- 
tle creek on the other, when, suddenly 
looking upward, he beholds the splen- 
did arch of the bridge in all its sub- 
limity and natural grandeur. Here 
indeed, does the astonished observer 
find language too feeble to give utter- 
ance to his impressions! 



-"Fancy then; 



Unequal fails beneath the task, 
Ah ! what shall language del" 

Mute astonishment succeeds the 
emotions with which the stranger 
had before been impressed, and now, 
unconsciously fixed to the spot, he 
gazes Avith Avonder and admiration 
upon the lofty arch, springing like a 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



429 



spirit over the tremendous gulf, and 
throwing its massive sides and ethe- 
rial summit high against the heavens. 
No adequate idea of the " Natural 
Bridge" is to be obtained from the 
efforts of either the pencil or pen, and 
though both' have attempted a descrip- 
tion, yet neither have approximated 
reality. From this view, the beholder 
is led to the comparison of natural ob- 
jects with which he has been familiar, 
and himself shrinks into insignifi- 
cance when he becomes the subject. 
Never was there a more fit place to 
observe the littleness of man, and the 
omnipotence of God! — No reflective 
mind can, with such a scene present- 
ed to its faculties, remain unimpressed 
with its own nothingness, and unaf- 
fected by feelings of adoration to the 
Great Supreme. With this view of 
the subject before him, and " looking 
from nature up to nature's God," the 
language of the poet would not ap- 
pear to him inapt: — 

In the vast and the minute we see 
The unambitious footsteps of the God 
Who gives the lustre to an insect's wing, 
And Avheels his throne upon the rolling 
world. 

The relative position of the specta- 
tor, at this time, and place, in regard 
to the bridge and most of the stupen- 
dous scenery connected with it, is de- 
cidedly more favorable than any other. 
Here within one grand view, is the 
towering arch surmounted by high 
trees, with vigorous foliage and sharp 
projecting rocks, strongly implanted 
in the soil. Here the whole of the 
high, and apparently unsupported 
mass, is cast boldly against the field 
of deep blue sky, and thereby brought 
out in vivid contrast and grand relief, 
every object stands strongly pourtray- 
ed upon the broad etherial canvass, 
while the varied tints, the sweeping 
dashes of natural shades, the coarse 
masses of deep black, with the occa- 
sional brushes of strong lights, all are 
well defined and deeply toned within 



masse, the most magnificent and fin- 
ished picture that ever came from the 
hand of nature. 



the 



rugged 



Who can paint 
Like naturel Can imitation boast, 
Amidst his gay creation, hues like hersl 

Here too, on either side, the prer 
cipitous cliffs rise up in portentous 
grandeur with 

Pendant rocks that nod into the world, 
And mock our eyes M'ith air, 

The observer, anxious to get a view 
of the whole of this rude and roman- 
tic sceqery, riaturally traverses the ra- 
vine, yet fearfully overawed by the 
impending rocks, he feels in moment 
tary danger of being ground to dust 
by the falling of projecting rocks, but 
which, though held apparently by 
feeble tenure, have maintgjned their 
places for ages. On looking up fron^ 
under the bridge, the fear of destruc- 
tion from the overhanging mass be-: 
comes almost irresistible, yet the 
grandeur of the arch induces suffix: 
cient curiosity to forego the apparent 
danger. The bridge here presents its 
most imposing appearance, though its 
character is less sublime from the na- 
ture of the position. The beholder 
is here more forcibly struck with awe 
and terror than from any other situa-; 
tion in which it is viewed. The ext 
pansive dimensions, the grand over^ 
sweeping continuity, and the ponder^ 
ous massiveness of the entire rock are 
here forcibly displayed to the wonder-- 
ing gaze. Here also, running up be-; 
side you to the very arch, are the 
craggy abutments upon which it rests, 
presenting altogether, the hugest body 
of continuous rock ever at one time 
thrown open to view. 

Speculation is naturally put in ope- 
ration to account for the causes where- 
by " with disruption vast," this rock 
was cloven asunder. Although sci- 
entific men may differ in many par- 
ticulars upon this subject, and al- 



outlines, compose, en 'though it is both more common and 



430 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



more easy to say that the whole is a 
phenominon caused "by some great 
convulsion," than to assign reasons 
and determine causes for this phe- 
nomenon, yet, it is thought, no one who 
has investigated the causes most likely 
to produce this result, and the evi- 
dences which those causes have left 
behind, of their existence and opera- 
tion, will arrive at any other conclu- 
sion than that the principle cause was 
water. It will b(? observed that the 
eastern or upper side of the bridge, 
has been worn under for several feet, 
that the part thus rounded, tunnel-like, 
is smooth and unlike any other por- 
tion of the contiguous rock, if we ex- 
cept the indentation on the southern 
side of the perpendicular rock, which 
present .similar appearances, evidently 
produced from the same cause. — 
Viewing the course of the ravine, and 
the consequent direction of the water 
which filled it, the indication of the 
agency of water in the formation of 
the bridge, is even more determindte 
in the latter circumstance than in the 
former. The projecting body of rock 
upon the opposite side of the chasm, 
running vmiformly upward from its 
base, and opposing an invulnerable 
front, of sufficient magnitude to have 
turned the current of the mighty wa- 
ters, and to have thrown its force di- 
rectly against those parts upon the 
other side, where the peculiarities 
before mentioned are seen, affords thej 
most natural proof of the influence ofl 
water in the creation of the bridge. 
Those who have observed the opera- 
tion of water in the wearing away of 
rocks, the large and deep pot holes, 
the rounded and smooth surfaces 
given to rocks, by the long and con- 
tinued action of small stones, and the 
friction of water, will here observe 
similar appearances. The entire 
mass of rock is of limestone, and 
therefore more easily worn away than 
silicious stone; whose more indurated 
surfaces have fretted for ages against 
it. Besides these evidences of tlu' 



agency of water, there are in the 
neighborhood of the bridge, numerous 
and certain proofs of there having 
been vast bodies of water which 
poured down the surrounding vallies 
and ravines, overtopping some of the 
high hills, and embodying themselves, 
at last, wathin this grand reservoir. 
The magnificent and rocky sides of 
this great depository, which is of 
nearly uniform height for some two 
or three miles above, directed the ac- 
cumulated waters down against the 
firm bridge. Here the)'- are met with 
this bold obstruction throwing itself 
proudly athwart the rushing waters, 
as if saying, in a spirit of defiance, 
"thus far thou shalt come and no far- 
ther!" Forced from its course by this 
obstinate and haughty barrier, the 
overflowing current was turned 
round the declivity on the south, and 
ran down the hill about the points of 
rocks, and came again into the deep 
valley some thirty rods below. Along 
its diverted channel maj^ be seen all 
the evidences of a water course pour- 
ing over a rocky bed. 

The proudly opposing rock was 
not destined, however, to stop forever 
the march of the dashins: stream, and 
in process of time, the onward force 
of the current, with the means which 
it had brought to its aid, prevailed, 
and increasing its force with every 
advantage, the breach enlarged and 
admitted, at length, the stream to roll 
forward for ages unresisted. Upon 
the summit of distant hills are to be 
found marine fossils, and their im- 
pressions within the fragments of par- 
tially decomposed limestone rocks, 
while along their sides and within the 
vallies arc pot-holes, smooth fissures 
and rounded points of rocks, all of 
which prove the existence and action 
of water at these places at some period 
of time; the course and parallel of 
theSe indications, are also directed to- 
wards the great receptacle as before 
intimated. 

(The undulating surface of the sur- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE. 



431 



rounding country must have presented 
from the bridge, when thus admitting 
the varied streams to dash along its 
rallies, one of the most splendid scenes 
in nature ) 

The chasms, both east and west of 
the bridge, do not afford strong evi- 
dences of the continued action of wa- 
ter, but rather of some violent rend- 
ing of the massive rock. And this 
may be rationally supposed, without 
opposing the conclusions to which we 
have arrived in regard to the agency 
of water in the formation of the 
bridge; yet even this is reconcileable 
Avith the solution of this phenomenon, 
by supposing portions of the rock to 
have fallen, from time to time, by the 
action of water within the fissures, or 
to have been cleft off by objects car- 
ried forcibly down the current of the 
stream. The theory of an immense 
cavern terminated at the bridge, and 
opening from either side, is certainly 
plausible, and does not militate against 
that so manifestly true, in respect to 
the bridge. The summit of this ca- 
vern is supposed to have extended 
along the ravine and high precipitous 
rocks, for some distance, and even- 
tually to have fiillen down, by which 
the deep chasm is laid open to view. 
This is believed by some, at least, 
whose judgment and scientific know- 
ledge are entitled to the utmost re- 
spect. 

It may appear to the curious wor- 
thy of remark, that in the centre of 
the grand arch, under the bridge, 
there is to be observed with outspread 
wings, the American Eagle of gigan- 
tic size, covering with one of its wings, 
the head of the British Lion. These 
objects certainly appeared plainly de- 
lineated to the writer, as they have 
ever appeared to all to whom they 
have been pointed out. Others have 
also discovered the head of Washing- 
ton and various other objects, but 
which it was not permitted to the ken 
of the writer to discover. 

These appearances are formed by 



moss hanging from the high over- 
hanging arch. To this arch it has 
ever been the attempt of visiters to 
throw a stone, and we recollect it to 
have been stated, years gone by, that 
the only successful competitor, in this 
feat of physical power was General 
Washington, who, it was also said, 
cut his name higher than any other 
person, upon the perpendicular rock. 
It is, certainly, a feat requiring no 
common degree of personal strength 
to throw a stone to the bridge, and 
few have been successful in the at- 
tempt; though one individual is said 
to have thrown upon the very sum- 
mit, (probably with a sling,) from 
whence the stone was taken at the 
time. Names are to be seen "in eve- 
ry variety" along the rocks and upon 
the sides under the bridge, but that of 
Washington is not now to be discov- 
ered. A young man, it is said ambi- 
tious to cut his name above that of 
Washington, became so situated, up 
the towering cliti', that he was unable 
to recover himself, or to descend : to 
effect the one, he Avould inevitably in- 
cur the certainty of being precipitated 
to the bottom, while to climb still high- 
er and gain the top, appeared impos- 
sible. In this state of awful uncer- 
tainty, between the possibility of life 
and a dreadful death, little hope ap- 
peared to the one, while the other 
seemed certain, and urged by an ef- 
fort as desperate as the love of life, he 
attempted to ascend to the giddy 
height. This ahernative nerved him 
with more than mortal power, and 
strange as it may seem to every one 
who may ever look at the spot from 
whence he started, the shuddering 
height at which he aimed, and the 
apparent impossibilities he surmount- 
ed, he arrived nervless and prostrate 
at the verge, and — was safe. 

Visiters to the " Natural Bridge of 
Virginia," will ever find a rich and 
varied field for observation; for, in 
addition to the objects of curiosity 
which have been enumerated and de- 



432 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKrNGHAM. 



scribed, " the overhanging rocks" andi 
numerous other grand and interesting 
objects up the valley and within the 
neighborhood, there is " Powell's 
mountain," upon which are found the 
marine fossils before mentioned, and 
within which are " Johnson's cave," 
affording an easy descent among a 
variety of subterranean cavities, and 
" Chapin's cave" of yet unfathomable 
depth. And last, though not least, 
among the objects of consideration 
Avith visiters to these interesting and 
romantic scenes, Mr. Johnson, the 
gentlemanly and accommodating pro- 
prietor of the public hoiise at the 
bridge* will afford every facility for 
their observation and every means for 
their enjoyment." 

Panther's Gai*. P. O. 195 ms. 
S. W. ot W. and 154 from R. In 
the vicinity of this post office, the 
Blowing cave is situated. This nat- 
ural culriosity is situated 12 ras. S. E. 
of the Warm Springs, in the ridge 



which divides the Cow and Calfpas- 
ture. It is a large cavity in the side 
of a hill, of about 6 feet in diameter, 
and emits constantly a current of air. 
This current is strongest in dry fros- 
ty weather, and in long spells of rair 
weakest. Regular inspirations and 
expirations of air, by caverns and fis- 
sures have been probably enough ac- 
counted for, by supposing them com- 
bined with intermitting fountains, as 
they must of course inhale air, while 
their reservoirs are emptying them- 
selves, and again emit it while they 
are filling. Biit a constant issue of 
air, only varying in its force as the 
weathet is dryer or damper, will re- 
quire a new hypothesis. There is 
another Blowing cave in the Cum- 
berland mountains, about a mile from 
where it crosses the Carolina line, all 
we kno\V of this is, that it is not con- 
stant, and that a fountain of water 
issues from it. - ' 



ROCKINGHAM. 



Rockingham was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and forrhed 
from a portion of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Shenandoah, — N. 
E. by Page, — E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Orange and 
Albemarle, — S. by Augusta, — W. by the North mountain which separates 
it from Pendleton, — and N. W. by Hardy. Its mean length is 34f miles, 
mean breadth 24; and area 833 square miles. Its mean lat. is 37° 30' N. 
and long. 1° 45' W. of W. C The main Shenandoah runs through the 
eastern portion, of the county, — North river drains the southern part, — 
North Fork of Shenandoah drains the northern and northwestern portion 
and after running through Shenandoah it unites with the main branch soon 
after it enters Frederick, a few miles from Front Royal, — Smith's creek a 
branch of North Fork drains the central portion of the county, and passes 
into Shenandoah before it joins North Fork. The western part of this 
county is very mountainous, and the Peaked mountains run up from She- 
nandoah, between the Shenandoah and Harrisonburg. Much of the soil 
is excellent, and the farming econominal and judicious. A large portion 
of the population is German or of Overman origin. Population in ] 820, 
14,784 — 1830, 20,683. It belongs to the fourteenth judicial circuit and 
seventh district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,821 64— in 1834 on lots, $167 41 
—on land $3,556 60—1189 slaves, $296 74—7446 horses, $446 76—39 
studs, $279 00—41 coaches, $88 05—68 carryalls, $68 37—34 gigs, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKINGHAM. 



433 



$25 10. Total $4,928 04. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 
$890 05— in 1833, $990 01. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Bowman's Mills, P. O. 145 ms. 
N. W. by W. of R. and 155 from 
W., situated in the N. VV. part of the 
county 23 ms. N. N. W. of Harri- 
sonburg-. 

Brock's Gap, P. O. 150 ms. N. 
W. of R. and 160 from W. 

Conrad's Store, P. O. 120 ms. 
N. W. of R. and 132 from W. 

Cross Keys, P. O. 130 ms. from 
R. and 140 S. W. by W. of W. 

HARRISONBURG, P. V. and 
scat of justice, 122 ms. from R. and 
144 S". W. by W. of W., in lat. 38° 
25' and long. 1° 48' W. of W. C. 
situated 24 ms. N. N. E. of Staun- 
ton and 40 N. N. W. of Charlottes-1 
ville. This village contains besides 
the ordinary county buildings, 125 
dwelling houses, a neat brick market 
house lately erected, 2 houses of pub- 
lic worship, ( 1 Methodist, and 1 Pres- 
byterian,) 3 common schools, 1 tem- 
perance and 1 Sunday school society, 
'8 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, aini 1 
printing office, issuing a weekly pa- 
per. There are 2 tan yards, 4 sad- 
dlers, 4 boot and shoe factories, 3 



considerable business is done both 
mechanical and niercantile. Thtse 
three having sprung up within a few 
years under the auspices of men of 
capital and enterprise, together with 
other causes have rendered Harri- 
sonburg less prosperous than villages 
in this valley generally. Population 
about 1000 persons; of whom 8 are 
resident attorneys, and 8 regular 
physicians. 

County courts are held on the Zd 
Monday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in February, May. August, and 
November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the iOth 
of 3Iay aud ilth of October by Judge 
Smith. 

Kite's Mills, P.O. 131 ms. from 
R. and 122 W. of W. 

Linville Creek, P. O. 136 ms. 
from R. and 146 W. of W. 

McGaheysville, p. O. 114 ms. 
from R. and 136 from W. 

Mount Crawford, P. V. 138ms. 
from R. and 148 S. W. by W. of W. 
situated in the western part of the 



smith shops, 3 hatters, 2 tailors, 2|county, on the m.ain valley road lead- 
wagon makers, 2 gunsmiths, 2 ing from Winchester to Staunton, and 
wheelwrights and chair makers, 1 1 immediately on the North river. It 
cabinet maker, 2 coppersmiths, and contains 25 dwelling houses, 1 house 
tin plate workers, ] saddle-tree ma- j of public worship free for all denomi- 
ker, I glove maker, 1 bookbindery, 2 'nations, 2 common schools, 2 taverns, 
watchmakers and silversmiths, 1 mar- 1 3 mercantile stores, 2 tailors, 2 sad- 
ble cutter and polisher, a quarry of idlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 
which is in the immediate neighbor- smith shop, 1 tin plate worker, 1 
hood, and in considerable demand, Ijcabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, I 
confectionary, and 1 earthen ware jcooper, 1 pottery, 2 milliner and man- 
pottery. There is a fine spring of tua makers, 1 gun smith, 1 wanon 



strong limestone water in the public 
square, — and the land adjacent is a 
strong limestone soil. Deaton is 4 
miles from this place, and Edoni 
Mills are 5 miles di.stniU; they are 
both small biU flourishing places; a 



maker, l manufacturing flour mill, 
and 1 saw mill. The North river is 
navigable for flat boat>-, about three 
miles above this village, .id consid- 
erable quantities of flour ;i.rc annual- 
ly carried down the Shenandoah from 



15 also Mount Crawford, at which tliis place to Georgetown and Alex- 
55 



434 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 



andria. The surrounding country is 
fertile and the climate salubrious. 
Population 180 persons; of whom 1 
is a physician. 

Port Republic, P. V. 121 ms. 
from R. and 143 N. W.by W.'ofW. 
situated at the junction of the North 
and South rivers, branches of the She- 
nandoah, 2 ms. below the Augusta line, 
2^ from Weyer's cave, 12 ms, S. of 
Harrisonburg, 20 E. of Staunton, and 
32 north of Charlottesville. It con- 
tains 30 dwelling houses, 1 house of 
public worship, free for all denomi- 
nations, 1 common school, 1 house 
of entertainment, 2 mercantile stores, 

1 manufacturing flour mill, 3 saw 
mills, 2 tan yards, 1 tilt hammer shop, 
Avith a carriage manufactory attached, 

2 other smith shops, i tin plate work- 
er, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1 sad- 



dler, 1 cabinet maker, 1 turner and 
chair maker, 1 hatter, and 2 tailors. 
The Shenandoah is navigable for 
flat boats from Port Republic to the 
District of Columbia, running at all 
times (except at very dry seasons) 
with from 60 to 120 barrels of flour 
in each boat. Both branches of the 
river furnish admirable seats for ma^ 
chinery, and the Avater power is suf- 
ficient at all seasons for manufacto- 
ries of any common extent. Popu- 
lation 160 persons; of whom I is a 
physician. 

Smith's Creek, P. O. 140 ms. 
from R. and 130 S. W. of W., situ- 
ated in the northern part of the coun- 
ty. The creek is the extreme south- 
ern branch of the North Fork of the 
Shenandoah. 



RUSSELL. 

Russell was established by act of Assembly in 1786, and formed' from 
a portion of Washington county. It is bounded by Tazewell N. E. — by 
Clinch mountain separating itfrom Smyth E. — S. E. by the same moun- 
tain, separating it from Washington, — ^S. and S. W. by Scott, — and by the 
Cumberland mountain separating it from Pike county, Ky., N. W. Its 
mean length is 40 miles, mean breadth 34:^, and area 1,370 square miles. 
It lies between 36° 38' and 37° 30' N. lat. and 4° 43' and 5° 41' W. long, 
from W. C. 

Mountains, d^c. — The Clinch, which divides it from Washington and 
Smyth on the south ; the Cumberland on the north separating it from 
Kentucky, are the most prominent. Their general bearing is from N. E. 
to S. W. Between tlie waters which fall into the Cliiich and the tributa- 
ries of Sandy, and only a few miles north of the Clinch, (with a fe"0r.ex- 
ceptions on the Guess^ river, and a short distance east of it,) until you ar- 
rive at the Cumberland mountain, the country seems to be a congregation 
of mountains. Their sides are generally steep, — the valleys narrow,- — 
most of them of not much greater extent than the space which is occupied 
by the meandering streams which, overhung with laurel, pass on in 
silent obscurity to their respective destinations. A few scattered inhabi- 
tants are occasionally to be seen here, who cultivate a small strip of land 
on a watercourse, and follow the chase on the mountains, as the means of 
subsistence. Amongst these mountains there are excellent ranges for cattle 
and hogs, which confmues throughout the year except in the more severe 
freezes and snows of winter. Travelling here must be performed either 
by following the iiunter's path on the mountains, with but few places of 
safe descent, or pursuing the watercourses; it being impracticable, with-a 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. f3f 

few exceptions, to cross the mountains with the view of a direct approach 
from one point to another. There are two ranges of highland, running 
nearly parallel with each other and the Clinch mountain, — one between 
Mocasin creek and Copper creek, denominated Mocasm ridge,— ihe other 
between Copper creek and Clinch river, called Copper ridge. These 
ridges are cut by Big Cedar creek, east of which the former is denominat- 
ed the Chesnui ridge and Preec^s mountain, and the latter the River, and 
Hou-se. and Barn mountain. Kent^s ^-idge lies betvA^een the Maiden Spring 
Pork and North Fork of Clinch river ; and north of the latter is the Stone 
mountain. The Big Bu-ft north of Clinch river, is a high projection of 
«rte of the mountains separating the waters of Clinch and Sandy. 

Rivers, Creekf, (Sfc. — Clinch, river, which meanders across the county in a 
N. E. and S. W. direction, is the principal stream, but has not as yet been 
used for transporting produce to the west, or for other purposes of naviga- 
tion. This river affords an abundance of h.-sh, some varit^ties of which a re- 
quite delicious. The North Fork (of Clinch) and the 31aiden Spring- 
Fork which take their rise in Tazewell county, unite their waters in the 
eastern section of Russell. Gues.t' river, which divides Russell and Scott 
has various sources from spurs of the Cumberland and adjoining moun- 
tains, and flow.s in a southern direction into the Clinch, receiving in it« 
course Tom^s creek on the south, and Bull Run, two of its principal streams. 
Copper creek has its source from numerous fine springs filled with yellow 
gravel, rising a few miles east of the village at Dickenson ville, and passes 
on to the southwest, uniting with Clinch river in Scott county. Moccasin 
creek rises near a gap in Clinch mountain by that name, flows near its 
base in a fruitful valley, and passing through Big Mocasin Gap, falls into 
the North Fork of Holston. Cedar creek is formed by streams issuing 
from the Clinch, Preec's, and the House and Barn mountains ; it flows in 
a western direction till within 2 miles east of Lebanon, receiving little 
Cedar creek which passes the village, and then flows into the Clinch in a 
northern direction. Indian creek runs from the eastern end or termination of 
Preec's mountain and from the spurs of Clinch mountain, and flows in a 
north east and north direction into the Clinch river. Lewis'' creek, Thomp- 
son's creek, Weaoei s creek, and Dump^s creek, are inconsiderable streams, 
falling into Clinch river on the north ; and Cedar Spring, Beck's branch, 
Mill creek, and Castle Run on the south. The principal streams of the 
Sandy is the Louisa Fork in the northeastern section, running nearly north 
west; The Pound Fork (so called from a bend in the river resembling 
sonftewhat in shape a horse shoe) takes its rise towards the Guess' river, 
runs east near to Cumberland mountain and unites, with McClure's Fork, 
and afterwards Russell's Fork at the state line of Kentucky. There is a 
remarkable cascade upon Big Cedar creek. In its passage through Cop- 
per ridge its waters are precipitated over a rock of considerable height, 
and they then wander in a circuitous route of many miles to seek a union 
with the Clinch river, which here runs at a short distance from it by a 
direct line, and which also rolls over a very shoally and serpentine chan- 
nel above and below their junction, and at one place is very narrow and 
rapid, occasioned by the projection of rocks from the north side. The 
whole county occupies an elevated region, independent of the mountain 
ridges, from 1,200 to 1,.500 feet above the ocean tides. 

Roads. — By a late act of Assembly a road has been established on the 
joint stock plan, leading from Price's turnpike in Botetourt, (o Cumberland 



436 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 

Gap, which will pass through Lebanon. Its route was surveyed by the 
Engineer to cross Copper ridge, 3 miles west of Lebanon, and through 
Castles' Woods, into Scott, tfec. Its location by the Copper creek valley so 
as to cross Copper lidge in Scott county, is strongly recommended by some, 
and the people on both routes are engaged with spirit in working out the 
respective advantages. The road from Lebanon to Abingdon passes by 
the way of Little Mocasin Gap, — that to the Salt Works in Washington, 
and: Smyth, by Hayter's Gap, — that tp Scott C. H. (Estillville,) either by 
Dickensonville, or down the valley of Mocasin Creek. A road has been 
opened along the Louisa Fork ot Sandy, as a line of communication with 
Kentucky, aided by an appropriation from the State of $3000; but it was 
so injudiciously located and badly constructed, that it is almost impassable. 
A track has also been opened from Castle Woods, via Guess' river and the 
Pound Fork of Sandy, to the State of Kentucky, passing Cumberland 
mountain, communicating with Pike and Perry counties, Ky. 

Meeting Houses. — The Episcopalians, Methodists, and Baptists have 
about 12 meeting houses in this county, besides various other places of 
meeting at private houses. There is no other sect having a congregation, 
society or church. The Methodists are the more numerous body of chris- 
tians. 

Manufactures. — There are no merchant mills (properly speaking) in 
Russell. Hendrick's on Cedar creek is the best establishment of that kind; 
flour from it is sometimes sent down iho Holston and Tennessee to Hunts-^ 
ville. There arc no factories of iron, wool, or cotton in this county, ex- 
cept carding machines,. alt|iough there are many sites suitable for water- 
power. Capital, and an opening for market, are wanting to give enGOur'^ 
agement to these branches of industry. ; 

Productions. — This county having many parcels of rich and fertile soil, 
produces in abundance most of the necessaries of life. Indian corn, Avheat, 
rye, oats clover, and the grasses introduced, succeed well; but its distance 
from market and the late neglex^ted state of improvement of the roads, have 
hitherto compelled the farmer to rear stocli as the principal means of ad- 
vancing his estate. 

There are several quarries of marble not far distant from Lebanon, of a 
greyish complexion. It is used for tomb stones, and for the fronts of hearths. 
Some specimens of it have been taken to the South, The lime stone is a 
prevailing mineral in the southern section of this county ; amongst it are 
found many caverns, few of which, however, are of much notoriety. 
There are two remarkable rocks upon the range of mountain between' 
Clinch river and the upper waters of Big Cedar creek in the eastern part 
of the county; the one from its form is called a house, and the other a barn,' 
and hence the name of the Huuse and Barn mountain. Several extensive 
beds of iron ore exist in this county, but are not at present worked. Stone 
coal is found in some of the ravines north of Clinch river, and is deemed of 
excellent quality by the blacksmiths who use it. 

This county had its name in honor of Gen'l William Russell, who 
formerly resided on an estate of about 600 acres in Castles Woods, but who 
at the time of his death lived near to and had an interest m Preston^ s old 
Salt works, in Washington county, now Smyth. 

The principal population of this county is contained between Clinch 
mountaui and a distance of from 12 to 15 miles north of its base : the 
northern and greater portion of its territory being so mountainous, sterile, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 437 

and inconvenient of access, that the population is, and will be for many- 
years hence, very inconsiderable. There are several rich and valuable 
sections of land in this county : the principal are, Gilmer's Sttl/ement, be- 
tween Lebanon and Big Cedar creek, — JElk Garden, in the vicinity of 
Hayter's Gap, — Castle's Woods, between Copper ridge and Clinch, west 
of Lebanon, — and the Mocasin Valley, lying between a ridge of that name 
and Clinch mountain opposite and below Little Mocasin Gap. In these 
sections the frst settlements of the country were made. 

P rofessions. — There are two resident attornies in the county, one living 
in the village at Lebanon, and the other in the country; — one resident phy- 
sician in Lebanon and two in the country : but the exemption heretofore of 
this section of the State from many of the diseases prevalent more frequent- 
ly in other places ; and the scarcity of litigation in the Courts, have not 
presented either to the one or the other, the prospect of much gain from a 
reliance upon their respective professions. 

Early Traditions. — In this part of Virginia, as in most other frontier 
settlements, the first settlers encountered many hardships, and experienced 
many scenes of dreadful suffering from the hostile Indians, who made fre- 
quent incursions from beyond the Ohio river for purposes of plunder, or 
savage revenge. In these incursions the most tragic scenes of cold blood- 
ed butchery were acted ; and the survivors sometimes carried into a cap- 
tivity more painful and distressing than the excruciating deaths to which 
their relatives had been subjected. Many well authenticated accounts of 
these cruelties, and of hair-breadth escapes, are still preserved. We give 
in a note* an example of the sufferings and heroistn displayed by the early 

* A NARRATIVE of the Captivity uiul Escape of Mrs. L'raiiccs 8cutt, of Wash- 
ingloii county, Va. 

On Wednesday, the 29th day of June, 1785, late in the evening, a large company 
of armed men passed the house on their way to Kentucky ; some part of whom en- 
camped within two miles. Mr. Scott, living on a frontier part, generally made the 
family watchful ; but on tliis calamitous day, after so large a body of men had pass- 
ed, he lay down in his bed and imprudently left one of the doors of his house open; 
the children were also in bed and asleep. Mrs. Scott was nearly undressed, when to 
her unutterable astonishment and horror, she saw rushing in through the door that 
was left open, painted savages with presented arms, raising a hideous shriek. Mr. 
Scott, being awake, instantly jumped from his bed, but was immediately fired at ; he 
forced his wa3' through the middle of the enemy and got out of the door, but fell a 
few paces from thence. An Indian seized Mrs. Scott, and ordered her to a particu- 
lar spot and not to move; others stabbed ami cut the throats of the three youngest' 
children in their bed, ancl afterwards lift-ed them uj) and dashed them on the tloor 
near the mother; the eldest, a beautiful girl of eight years old, awoke and escaped 
out of the bed and ran to her mamma with the most plaintive accents, cried, "O 
mamma! mamma! save me!" — the mother in the deepest anguish of spirit, and with 
a floo I of tears, entreated the savages to .spare her child : but with a brutal fierceness 
they tomahawked and stabbed her in the mother's arms. Adjacent to Mr. Scott's 
dwelling-house another family lived of the name of Ball. The Indians also attacked 
them at the same instant they did Mr. Scott ; but the door being shut, the enemy 
fired into the house through an opening between two logs, and killed a lad, and then 
e.s.sayed to force the door open: but a surviving brother tired through the door, and 
the enemy desisted and went oti"; the remaining jiart of the family ran out of the 
hou.se and escaped. In Mr. Scott's were four good rifles loaded, belonging to people 
that had left them on their way to Kentucky. — The Indians loaded tliem.selves with 
the plunder, being thirteen in number, then .speedily made otl', and continued travel- 
ling all night ; next morning their chief allotted to "each man his share, and detach- 
ed nine of the party to steal horses from the inhabitants on Clinch. The eleventh 
day after Mrs. Scott's captivity, four Indians that had her in charge stopped at a 
place fixed on for rendezvou-;, and to liunf, being now in great want of provisions. 
Three went out, and the chief being an old man was left to take care ol the prisoner, 
who by this time expressed a willingness to proceed to the Indian towns, which 



438 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 

settlers, in the narrative oF Mrs. Scott of Powell's Valley, which is how in 
Lee county, but which was formerly in Russell, and before its formation, in 
Washinsjton county, which was published in the New Haven Gazette of 
Dec. 27th, 1785. 

seemed to have the desired effect of lessening her keeper's vigilance. In the day- 
time while the old man was graining a deer skin, the captive, pondering on her situ- 
ation, and anxiously looking for an opportunity to make her escape, took a resolution 
and went to the Indian carelessly, asked liberty to go to a small distance to a stream 
of water to wash the blood off her apron, that had remained besmeared since the 
fatal night of the murder of her little daughter.^ He told her in the English tongue, 
"go along;" she then passed by him, his face being in a contrary direction from- that 
she was going, and he very busy. She, after getting to the water, proceeded on with- 
put delay, made to a high barren mountain, and travelled until late in the evening, 
when she came down into the valley in search of the track she had been taken along; 
hoping thereby to find the way back, without th^ risk of being lost and perishing 
with hunger in uninhabited parts. 

On coming across the valley to the river side,— .supposed to be the easterly branch 
of Kentucky river — she observed in the sand, i racks of two men that had gone up 
the river and had just returned. She concluded these to have been her pursuers, 
which excited emotions of gratitude and thankfulness to Divine Providence for so 
timely a deliverance. Being without any provisions, having no kind of weapon or 
tool to assist her in getting any, and almost destitute of clothing — also knowing that 
a vast tract of rugged high mountains intervened between where she was and the 
inhabitants easterly, and she almost as ignorant as a child of the method of steering 
the woods, excited painful sensations. But certain death, either by hunger or wild 
heasts, seemed to be better than to be in the power of beings who excited in her mind 
such horror. — She addressed Heaven, and taking courage proceeded onward. 

After travelling three days, she had nearly met with the Indians, as she supposed, 
that had been sent to Clinch to steal horses, but providentially hearing their approach, 
concealed herself among the cane until the enemy had passed. — This giving her a 
fresh alarm, and her mind being filled with consiernation, she got lost, proceeded 
backwards and forwards for several days ; at length she came to a river that seemed 
to come from the east — concluding il was Sandy river, she accordingly resolved to 
trace il to its source, which is adjacent to the Chnch setijemcnt. After proceeding 
i;p the same several days, slie came to where the river runs through the great Laurel 
niountain, where is a prodigious waterfall, and high craggy clifls along the water- 
pdge ; that way seemed impassable, the mottntain steep and difficult ; — however, our 
p>ournful traveller concluded the latter way was best. — She therefore ascended for 
some time, but coming to a range of lofty and inaccessible rocks, she turned her 
.course towards the foot of the mounlain and the river side ; after getting into a deep 
gulley, and passing over several high steep rocks, she reached the river side, -where 
to her inexpressible affliction she found that a perpendicular rock, or rather one that 
hung over, of fifteen or twenty feet high, formed the bank. — Here a solemn pause 
ensued ; she e.ssayed to return, but the height of the steeps and rocks she had des- 
cended over prevented her. She then returned to the edge of the precipice, and 
viewing the bottom of it as the certain spot to end all her troubles, or remain oil the 
top tQ pine a\«iy with hunger, or be devoured by beasts. After serious meditatipji 
and devout exercises, she determined on leaping from the height, and accordingly 
jumped off. Although the place she had to alight was covered with uneven roclfs, 
not a bone was broken ; but being exceedingly stunned by the tail, she remained 
unable to proceed for some space of time. 

The dry season caused the river to be shallow — she travelled in it, and, where she; 
could, by its edge, until she got through the mountain, which she concluded was 
several miles. After this, as she was travelling along the bank of the river, a veno- 
mous snake bit her on the ancle; she had strength to kill it, and knowing its kind, 
concluded that death must .soon (.vertake her. By this time, Mrs. Scott was reduced 
to a mere skeleton with fatigue, hunger, and grief; probably this state of her body 
was the means of preserving her from the effects of the poison ; be that as it may, so 
it was, that very little pain succeeded the bite, and what little swelling there was, fell 
into her feet. 

Our wanderer now left the river, and after proceeding a good distance she came 
to where the valley parted into two, each leading a different course. Here a painful 
suspense again took place : a forlorn creature, almost exhausted, and certain, if she 
was far led out uf liie wav. she would never see a human creature. During This 



WESTJEiRN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 



439 



Population in 1820, 5,536— in 1830, 6,714. This county belongs to the 
fifteenth judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in 1833, S668 60 — 
in 1834 on lots, $22 54— on land, $247 00—366 slaves, $91 50—3301 
horses, $198 06— 23 studs, $103 00— 7 carryalls, $7 00— total, $669 98. 
Expended in educating poor children in 1832,' $4 18 44— in 1833, $485 64. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



O. situated 



W. of 

on the 

This I 



Bichley's Mills, P 
in Castle's Woods. 

Clinton, P. O. 312 ms. S 
R. and 374 fronn W., situated 
Maiden Spring Fork. 

DiCKENSONVILLE, P. O. 

village was formerly the seat of jus- 
tice, but since that has been removed 
to Lebanon, it is almost depopulated, 
and the houses in a state of dilapida- 
tion. 

LEBANON, P. V. and seat of 
pistice, 330 ms. from R. and 394 S. 
W. by W. of W., in lat. 36° 53' N. 
and long. 5° 03' W. of W. C, situat- 
ed about 130 ms. N. E. by E. of] 
Knoxville, Ten., on Little Cedar 
creek, a branch of Clinch river hav- 
ing its source in Clinch mountain, 
on a southern inclination, near the 
centre of the population of the coun- 
ty. It is well watered by springs, 
and commands a beautiful prospect of 
Clinch mountain on the south, whose 
lofty summits present an almost un- 
broken range from Little Moccasin 
to Hayter's Gap, a distance of 12 
miles. On the left of the latter gap, 
and directly east of this village, the 
mountain rises to a con.siderable 



height and is covered on the summit 
with evergreens, — amongst which is 
the balsam tree, from which a resinous 
substance is extracted, and which is 
celebrated as useful in the cure of 
chronic diseases. This village was 
located in 1816, and in 1818 the seat 
of justice was established here. The 
cj>ort house which is of stone, is the 
only permanent building in the place, 
the rest being all wooden tenements 
and most of them rather indifferent. 
It contains 6 mercantile stores, 1 
grocery, 2 tan yards, 2 blacksmiths, 
2 tailors, 1 hatter, 1 cabinet maker, 
and in the vicinity I school house. 
The main road from Botetourt, thro' 
Montgomery and Giles to Cumber- 
land Gap, passes through this village, 
and will when completed, contribute 
much to the prosperity of this place 
and the adjoining country. 

County Courts are held on the 
Tuesday after the first Monday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
June, August and November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the ^d 
Monday in April and September, by 
Judge Estill. 



doubt, a beautiful bird passed close by her, fluttering along the ground, and went out 
of sight up one of the valleys. This drew her attention, and whilst considering 
what It might mean, another bird of the same appearance in like manner fluttered 
past her, and took the same valley the former had done. This determined her choice 
of the way; and in two days, which was on the 11th day of Ai7gust, she reached the 
settlement on Clinch, called New Garden ; whereas, (.she is since informed by wood- 
men,) had she taken the other valley it would have led her back towards the Ohio. 
Mrs. Scott relates that the Indians told her that the party was composed of four dil- 
ferent nations, two of whom she thinks they named Delawares and Mingoes. 

She further relates, that during her wandering from the 10th of July to the 11th of 
August, she had noother subsistence but chewing and swallowing the juice of young 
cane stalks, sassafras leaves, and some other plants she did not know the names of; 
that on her journey she saw buft'aloes, elks, deers, and frequently bears and wolves — 
not one of which, although .some passed very near her, offered her the least harm. 
One day a bear came near her with a young fawn in his mouth, and on discovering 
her he dropped his prey and ran off". Hunger prompted her to go and take the flesh 
and eat it ; but on reflection she desisted, thinking that the bear might return and de- 
vour her — besides, she had an aversion to taste raw flesh. 



440 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 

SCOTT* 

Scott \Vas established by act of Assembly in 18H, and formed from por- 
tions of Lee, Washington and Russell. It is bound N. and N E. by Rus- 
sell, — E. by Washington, — S. by Sullivan and Hawkins counties of Ten- 
nessee, — and W. by Lee. Its mean lat. is about 46° 47' N., its long. 5° 
40' W. of W. C. — its mean length 26 miles, mean breadth 24, and area 
624 square miles. 

The face of the country is mountainous and uneven. — Clinch mountain 
passes through the county from N. E. to S. W. — all the principal ridges and 
streams take the same direction. The county is exceedingly well watered 
by good springs, creeks and rivers, and possesses water power in abundance. 

The soil is generally good, some of superior rpiality, the poorest well suit- 
ed to small grain, — good meadows can be made almost any where. The 
county is well suited to rearing stock. 

The principal growth consists of poplar, hickory, beech, sugar maple, 
white and black oak, lynn, buckeye, black walnut; chesnut on the mountains 
and ridges, and wild cherry is found in many places. 

The chief productions are, Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, »fcc. 
and apples and peaches in abundance. Many horses, horned cattle and 
hogs are reared in, and driven out of the county. 

Rivers, <fcc. — The North fork of Holston and Clinch rivers, run through 
the county, — each afford the facilities of boat navigation down them in times 
of freshets; and with some improvement would add greatly to the conve- 
nience of the country for the purposes of trade; they both afford fine fish. 
Clinch river, for a river of its size, is remarkaljle for its fish. Some of the 
largest taken in it are of the following weight: — blue cats, 30 to 40 lbs. — 
salmon, 15 lbs. — carp, 15 lbs. — red horse, 7 lbs. &c. 

Big Mocasin Creek rises in Russell county at the foot of Clinch moun- 
tain — winds along the North side of the mountain, a distance of about ^0 
miles, to Big Mocasin Gap. — Little Mocasin creek rises at the foot of said 
mountain in a different direction, runs along the mountain a distance of 
about seven miles to said Gap, where the two streams form a junction, flow 
through the Gap on nearly level ground, and pass on to the North fork of 
Holston. Clinch mountain here is large and the Gap, although formed 
ai)ruptly, is so perfectly level that the main western road in passing through 
it, does not ascend more than in passing up a gently flowing stream. — Big 
Mocasin Gap is situated about one mile east of Estillviile. 

Sinking Creek empties into Clinch river about 22 miles north of E^ill- 
ville, is 6 or 7 miles long, and large for its length. It rises on the south 
side of said river, in Copper ridge, and when it approaches within three- 
fourths of a mile of the river, sinks, passes under the bed of the river and 
rises about one hundred yards from the river on the north side, and runs 
back into the river, — the stream rising has often been proved to be the same 
that sinks. — i'ish from the river pass into the mouth of the creek in the fall 
of the year in large numbers, winter under ground, and return to the riv{>r 
in the spring, when many are caught in a trap fixed between the rising- 
water and river. 

Minerals, <fec. — Iron ore abounds in every part of the county— stone 
coal of good quality is found in many places — marble, considered coars^e, 
abounds about Estillviile — lime and free stone quarries are abundant— -salt 
water has lately been discovered by boring at ihe distance of upwards ot 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 441 

300 feet below the surface, in the Poor Valley, near the North fork of Hol- 
ston, and about 8 miles east of Estillvilie. The proprietor, Col. James 
White of Abingdon, is now letting down pipes and making preparations to 
work the well. The quality and quantity of the water is not yet fully ascer- 
tained in consequence of the interference of fresh water, which was struck 
first near the surface; — there however appears to be no doubt among those 
employed. at the well but that it may be profitably worked. 

The Holston Springs, situated on the North fork of Holston, south of 
Estillvilie 2 mile.s, or 4 miles as the road runs, is considered by many to 
-be not mferior to any springs in the state for the medicinal virtues of the 
'Water, but as yet has gained no great celebrity in consequence of the accom- 
modations being inferior to those of most other watering places. 

The White Sulphur Springs, near the Rye Cove N. W. of Estillvilie 8 
miles, is considered equal to the Catawba Springs in Washington county — 
There are many other Sulphur Springs in the county of less note. 

There are in the county, exclusive of the town of Estillvilie, 9 meeting 
houses, 6 of which }>elongto the Methodists and 3 to the Baptists; — the'Me- 
thodists also have 18 or 20 other preaching places in the county, wheTe they 
have societies formed and preach every other week — 6 stores, 4 tanyards, 
10 licensed houses of private entertainment, 4 hatter shops, 33 mills, some 
of which are very ordinary, others make good flour; but none are entitled 
to the appellation of merchant mill To 10 or 15 of these mills, saw mills 
are attached, — and to two, carding machines. 

The climate is somewhat milder than that of Washington or Russell 
counties — vegetation commencing at Estillvilie one or two weeks sooner 
than at Abingdon or Lebanon. There is but one practicing attorney besides 
those residing in Estillvilie, and no regular physician. 

Population in 1820, 4,263— in 1830, 5,724. It belongs to the toth 
judicial circuit and 8th..district. Tax paid in 18S3, $646 73 — in 1834. on 
lots, $!525 76— land, 8273 95— 180 slaves, ^45 00—2032 horses, $121 92 
— 13 studs, $55 00— 3 carryalls, $3 00— Total, $524 63. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $242 61— in 1833, $361 56. 

• TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, dec. 

ESTILLVILLE, P. V. and AefflA equalled by none except the Sweet 
of justice, 357 ms. S. W. of R. and Springy, to which they have a consid- 
433 S. W, by W. of W. It contains jerable resemblance. This place is 
besides the county buildings, 61 dwel-j supplied with water by means of pipes, 
ling houses, 2 houses of public wor-jthrough which it is brought 800 yards, 
ship, (I Methodist and 1 Presbyte-jand is conveyed to every dwelling 



rian,) 1 academy, 1 common school 
and 1 female do , 4 mercantile stores, 
2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3' blacksmiths, 
1 extensive hat manufactory, 2 cabi- 
net makers, several house carpenters, 
and various other mechanics. It is 
situated on Mocasin creek, between 
the N. fork of Holston and Clinch 
rivers, and 4 miles from the Hol- 



The water is of the purest and best 
quality. This place possesses some 
of the best water falls and sites for 
manufacturing establishments in Wes- 
tern Virginia, aiid othc-r eidvantages 
not to be surpassed by any village in 
the state. The country around abounds 
with stone coal and iron ore, and salt 
water has latelybeen obtained in great 



ston Springs, which are now visited; quantity within 6 miles of the C. H. 
by much coiiipauy, and ^aid to be A noithem, southern, eastern and 



5b 



44^ 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 



western mail arrives in this village 
once a week. Population 200 per- 
sons ; of whom three are resident at- 
torneys and two regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the \st 
Wednesday after the 2d Monday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
June, August, and November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and 
Chancery are held on the 2d Monday 
in April and Septtmbcr, by Judge 
Estill. 

OsBORN Ford, P. O. 20 ms. north 
of Estillville. 

Pendleton, P. O. 367 ms. from 
R. and 443 from W. — Situated 12 ms. 
N. W. of Estillville. 

Stock Creek, P. O. 368 ms. from 
R. and 444 from W. — Situated 1 1 ms. 
W. of Estillville. The remarka- 
ble NATURAL TUNNEL is situ 
ated near this P. O. We present an 
account of this natural curiosity writ- 
ten by S. H. Long, Lieut. Col. U. S. 
Army originally from th& Mo7i,t/dy 
American JouDhal of Geology, in 
which it was published in Febmaiey, 
1832. 

"The immediate locality of this 
tunnel is upon a small stream called 
Buck-eye, or Stock creek. This last 
name owes its origin to its valley hav- 
ing been resorted to by the herdsmen 
of the country, for the attainment of a 
good range, or choice pasture ground 
for their cattle. The creek rises in 
Powell's mountain, and is tributary 
to Clinch river, which it enters at the 
distance of between two and three 
miles below the tunnel. The aspect 
of the surrounding country, and espe- 
cially of that to the northwai'd of the 
tunnel, and constituting the southerly 
slope of the mountain just mentioned, 
is exceedingly diversified and b''oken, 
by elevated spurs and ridges, separat- 
ed from each other by deep ctiasms, 
walled with cliffs and mural precipi- 
ces, often pre.senting exceedingly nar- 
row passes, but occasionally widening 
into meadows or bottoms of considera- 
ble extent. The mural precipices just 



mentioned, occur very frequently, 
bounding the valleys of the streams 
generally in this part of the country, 
and opposing ramparts of formidable 
height, and in many places utterly in- 
surmountable. Such are the features 
peculiarly characteristic of Wild Cat 
Valley, the Valley of Copper Creek, 
of Powell's and Clinch rivers, and of 
numerous other streams of less note, 
all of which are situated within a few 
miles of the natural tunnel. 

" To form an adequate idea of this 
remarkable and truly sublime object, 
we have only to imagine the creek to 
which it gives a passage, meandering 
through a deep narrow A^alley, here 
and there bounded on both sides by 
walls or revetements of the character 
above intimated, and rising to the 
height of two or three hundred feet 
above the stream; and that a portion 
of one of these chasms, instead of 
presenting an open thorough cut from 
the summit to the base of the high 
grounds, is intercepted by a continu- 
ous unbroken, ridge more than three 
hundred feet high, extending entirely 
across the valley, and perfoiafed Sirans-- 
versely at its base, after the manner 
of an artificial tunnel, and thus af- 
fording a spacious subterranean chan- 
nel for the passage of the stream. 

"The entrance to the natural tun- 
nel on the upper side of the ridge, is 
imposing and picturesque, in a high 
degree; but on the lower side, the 
grandeur of the scene is greatly 
heightened by the superior magnitude 
of the cliffs, which exceed in loftiness, 
and which rise perpendicularly — and 
in some instances in an impending, 
manner — two to three hundred feet; 
and by which the entrance on this side 
is almost environed, as it were, by an- 
amphitheatre of rude and frightful 
precipices. 

" The observer, standing on the 
brink of the stream, at the distance of 
about one hundred yards below the 
debouchure of the natural tunnel, has, 
in front, a view of its arched entrance, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 



'443 



rising seventy or eighty feet above the 
water, and surmounted by horizontal 
stratifications of yellowish, white and 
grey rocks, in depth nearly twice the 
height of the arch. On his left, a 
view of the same mural precipice, de- 
flected from the springing of the arch 
in a manner to pass thence in a con- 
tinuous curve quite to his rear, and 
towering in a v^ery impressive man- 
ner, above his head. On his right, a 
sapling growth of buck-eye, poplar, 
linden, &.c. skirting the margin of the 
creek, and extending obliquely to the 
right, and upward through a narrow, 
abrupt ravine, to the summit of the 
ridge, which is here, and elsewhere, 
crowned with a timber growth of pines, 
cedars, oaks, and shrubbery of various 
kinds. On his extreme right, is a gi- 
gantic cliff lifting itself up perpendi- 
cularly from the water's edge, to the 
height of about three hundred feet, 
and accompanied by an insulated cliff, 
called the chimney, of about the same 
altitude, rising in the form of a tur- 
ret, at least sixty feet above its base- 
ment, which is a portion of the impos- 
ing cliff just before mentioned. 

" In order to give a more full de- 
scription of the magnificent spectacle 
which forms the subject of this article, 
I shall transcribe some of the minutes 
taken from my private notes, whilst 
on the ground; but first I shall give 
an extract from a letter addressed to 
me by my friend P. C. Johnston, Esq. 
of Abingdon, in the adjoining county 
to Scott, a gentleman well acquainted 
with this interesting locality. 

" 'The rocks through which Stock 
creek flows, are a light blue and gray 
limestone, of a subcrystalline charac- 
ter; the strata are nearly horizontal; 
and this arrangement of the strata is 
obvious for several miles northeast- 
wardly; but in every other direction, 
very near the bridge, (natural tunnel,) 
they have the dip usual in the coun- 
try to the S. E. at an ans^le generally 
of" from SO'^ to 50°. This mnnel is 
near what I have believed to be the 
N.VV. boundary of the transition for- 



mation, a little within it. I have not 
been able to discover any organic re* 
mains in the limestone there, or in the 
neighborhood. On the little projec- 
tions of the rock which occur on the 
walls, near the lower (S.) end of the 
tunnel, a crystallized deposit is lodged, 
which you no doubt recollect, that 
seemed to my taste to be a mixture of 
saltpetre and alum. No attempt has 
been made to analyze it. The earth 
found near the upper (N.) extremity 
of the tunnel some years ago, (the 
first time I visited it,) afforded saltpe- 
tre. The crystallized deposit seems 
to be made from a stratum apparently 
not more than six inches thick, which 
is so high that it cannot be reached 
for examination. The growth of tim- 
ber is such as is common in the neigh- 
boring country, white, red, Spanish, 
black oaks; hickory, white walnut, 
dogwood, poplar, chesnut, birch, iron- 
wood; some hemlock and pawpaw 
(asimina trfloba) on the banks of the 
creek, and the edges of the cliffs fring- 
ed with cedar. On the creek, below 
the tunnel for two miles, is found that 
variety of ash called the fringe tree, 
(chiGnamhusvirginica,)the long white 
fringe-like blossoms of which ate^^to 
delightfully fragrant.'* • ;' ' 

The following passages are fi'om 
my own private journal: 

'Saturday, Aug. 13, 1831. Haw 
ing ascended Cove ridge, we turned 
aside from our route to visit the natu- 
ral bridge, or tunnel, situated on Buck- 
eye, or Stock creek, about a mile be- 
low the Sycamore camp,t and about 
one and a half miles from a place call- 

* This plant, in the natural system, be- 
longs to the olcacea, or olive tribe. The 
flowers of the olea fragrans are used for 
flavornig tea in China. We offer this hint 
to our readers who have access to the chio- 
nanthus. — Ed. 

t This designation has been given to a spot 
in the valley of the creek, where formerly 
stood a hollow sycamore (plantauus occi- 
dentalLs) tree of an enormous .size, the. re- 
mains of which are still to be seen, and in 
the cavity of which, whilst it stood, fifteen 
persons are said to have encamped at tlie 
same time together. 



444 



WESTERiN VIRGI NIA— SCOTT. 



ed Rye cove, which occupies a spa- 
cious recess between two prominent 
spurs of Powell's mountain, the site of 
thenatural tunnel being included with 
in a spur of Cove ridge, which is one of 
the mountain spurs, just alluded to. 
Here is presented one of the most re- 
markable and attractive curiosities of 
its kind to be witnessed in this or any 
pther country. The creek, which is 
about seven yards wide, and has a 
general course about S. 15 W. here 
passes through a hill elevated from 
two to three hundred feet above the 
surface of the stream, winding its way 
through a huge subterraneous cavern, 
or grotto, whose roof is vaulted in a 
peculiar manner, and rises from se- 
venty or eighty feet above its floor. 
The sides of this gigantic cavern rise 
perpendicularly in some places to the 
height of fifteen or twenty feet, and 
in others, are formed by the spring- 
ing of its vaulted roof immediately 
from its floor. The width of the tun- 
nel varies from fifty to one hundred 
and fifty feet; its course is that of a 
continuous curve, resembling the let- 
ter S, first winding to the right as we 
enter on the upper side, then to the 
left, again to the right, and then again 
to the left, on arriving at the entrance 
on the lower side. Such is its pecu- 
liar form, that an observer, standing 
at a point about midway of its subter- 
ranean course, is completely excluded 
from a view of either entrance, and is 
left to grope in the dark through a 
distance of about twenty yards, occu- 
pying an intermediate portion of the 
tunnel. \V^hen the sun is near the 
meridian, and his rays fall upon both 
entrances, the light reflected from both 
extremities of the tunnel, contributes 
to mollify the darkness of this interior 
portion into a dusky twilight. 

" ' The extent of the tunnel from its 
upper to its lower extremity, following 
its meanders, is about 150 yards, in 
which distance the stream falls about 
ten feet, emitting, in its passage over 
a rocky bed, an agreeable murmur, 
which is rendered more grateful by 



its reverberations upon the roof and 
sides of the grotto. The discharge of a 
musket produces a crash-like report, 
succeeded by a roar in the tunnel, which 
has a deafening effect upon the ear. 

" 'The hill through which this sin- 
gular perforation leads, descends in a 
direction from east to west, across the 
line of the creek, and affords a very 
convenient passage for a road which 
traverses it at this place, having a de- 
scent in the direction just mentioned, 
of about four degrees.' 

" The rocks found in this part of 
the country are principally sandstone 
and limestone, in stratifications nearly 
horizontal, with occasional beds of 
clay slate. A mi.xture of the two for- 
mer frequently occurs among the al- 
ternations presented by these rocks. 
A variety of rock resembling the 
French burr, occurs in abundance on 
Butcher's fork, of Powell's river, 
about twenty miles northwardly of 
the natural tunnel. Fossils are more 
or less abundant in these and other 
rocks. Fossil bones of an interesting 
character have been found in several 
places. Saltpetre caves are numerous. 
Coves, sinks and subterranean caverns 
are strikingly characteristic, not only 
of the country circumjacent to thena- 
tural tunnel, but of the region gene- 
rally situated between the Cumber- 
land mountain and the Blue Ridge or 
Apalachain mountain. Bituminous 
coal, with its usual accompaniments, 
abounds in the northerly parts of this 
region ; and in the intermediate and 
southerly portions, iron, A^ariously 
combined, often magnetic, together 
with talcose rocks, &c. &-c. are to be 
met with in great abundance. 

" The mountains in this vicinity, 
long. 82° to 84° W. from Greenwich, 
lat. 35° to 36° N. are among the most 
lofty of the Alleghany range. Seve- 
ral knobs in this part of the range, 
among which may be enumerated the 
Roan, the Unaka.the Bald, the Black, 
and Powell's mountains, rise to the 
height of at least four thou.'iand five 
hundred feet above tide" 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 445 

SHENANDOAH. 

Shenandoah was established by act of Assembly in 1772, from a por- 
tion of the county of Frederick under the name of Dunmore, from the 
name of Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Virginia; but in October 1777 
after Lord Dunmore had taken a decided stand against the colonies in the 
contest with the mother country, one of the delegates from the county stated 
that his constituents no longer wished to live in, or he to represent, a coun- 
ty, bearing the name of such a tory, he therefore moved to call it Shcnaii- 
doah,a.flev the name of the beautiful stream which passed through it: which 
was accordingly adopted. Shenandoah is bounded N. and N. E. by Fred- 
erick, — E. and"^S. E. by Page, — S. and S W. by Rockingham, — VV. and 
N. W. by Hardy. Its average lat. is about 3S° 50' N. and long. 1° 30' W. 
of W. C; — its greatest length from S. W. to N. E. is 32 miles, — average 
width 15, — and area 384 sq. ms. This is a fertile and populous county, 
situated in the valley. The whole county is traversed by the North Fork of 
Shenandoah river, lying between the Massanntten and North mountain. The 
North and South branches of the Shenandoah river pass througji the entire 
length of the county and Page, and unite iumiediately below its north-eastern 
line, and form the Shenandoah river. They admit of a descending naviga- 
tion when the waters are a little swollen, — its creeks are Cedar creek. Pas- 
sage creek, Stoney creek. Mill creek and Smith's creek. It is divided into 
four valleys, two of which are long and two small, — by the Three Topped 
or Massanntten mountain and the Little North mountain. The larger val- 
leys are watered by the North and South Sheniindoah rivers, the smaller 
vallies by Cedar and Passage creeks. The land m the vallies is principal- 
ly limestone, and is well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, rye, Indian 
corn and oats, and is divided into small farms. Its staple articles are flour, 
bacon, beef, butter and iron. There are within it 34 manufacturing flour 
mills, 2 furnaces and 4 forges, for the manufacturing of pig metal into bar 
iron, and another furnace and forge are now be'ng erected. Its mineral re- 
sources have been but partially explored. Iron ore of the best quality 
abounds, copper, lead, cobalt and copperas have been found, but not in suf- 
ficient quantities to justify working them. There are several chalybeate 
and sulphur springs which are places of resort in the warm season. 

The Valley of the .Gooney is situated in the eastern part of the 
county, immediately at the western base of the Blue Ridge. It is bounded 
on the S. by the Hog-back mountain, which is one of the highest summits 
of the Blue Ridge, on the E. by the Blue Ridge; on the -N. and W. by 
Dickey's hill and the Buck mountain, both of which, are spurs of the Blue 
Ridge. It is about 7 miles in length and 4 in breadth. The face of this 
section of country, is hilly and rugged, but the soil is sufficiently produc- 
tive, and yields, when well cultivated, abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, 
&-C. Clover and timothy thrive remarkably well on this soil, as plaster 
acts with an astonishing effect. There is a great proportion of excellent 
meadow land, there being scarcely a field that has not one or more streams 
of water passing through it. Almost every farmer has a spring of excellent 
mountain water near his door, and breathing a pure mountain atmosphere; 
the inhabitants are extremely healthy and robust, having uniformly es- 
caped those periodical diseases which have been so fatal in other sections of 
Virginia. The princi])al stream is tiie Gooney, which is a creek of the 
largest class. It rises near the top of the IIoo back, and rinining a N. W. 



446 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 

course about 12 miles, empties into the South River about 5 miles, above 
the town of Front Royal. It affords some fine situations for water-works, 
and moves several merchant miUs and saw mills. The mountains, with 
which it is surrounded, afford an inexhaustible supply of excellent timber. 
There is a woollen factory, 1 common school, 2 churches (Methodist and 
Baptist) and several extensive distilleries of grain, — whiskey, plank and flour 
being the chief articles of export. This valley is thickly settled by a hardy, 
honest and industrious people. From the top of the Blue Ridge, at Dade's 
gap, nearly opposite the town of Washington, in the county of Rappahan- 
nock, there is a magnificent view of the eastern part of the county of Shenan- 
doah (now Page) and of the county of Rappahannock. Near this place there 
is a remarkable rock called the Raven's Den, it having been occupied as the 
aerie of that wild bird from time immemorial. It is entirely inaccessible to 
man. Near Cheek's gap, Lann's run, a bold mountain current, a branch 
of the Gooney, forms a most beautiful cascade, the water falling GO or 70 
feet perpendicular. There is another beautiful cascade near Milford, formed 
by the stream which divides the counties of Shenandoah and Page; the wa- 
ters of which fall about 100 feet at one perpendicular pitch. 

The Fort Mountain. This name has been given to a range of moun- 
tains in the county of Shenandoah, which are, in elevation, about equal to 
the Blue Ridge. This range commences nearly opposite to the town of 
Newmarket, at which place it is called the Massanutten mountain, and ex- 
tends in a direction nearly from S. W. to N. E. or in a line coinciding with 
the meanderings of the North branch of the Shenandoah river. Unlike 
the Blue Ridge, which is extremely fertile, and the greater part of which is 
susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation, this mountain is pre- 
cipitous and rugged in the extreme, and is covered, for the most part, with 
a thick growth of oak, pine, hickory, chesnut, <kc. Its forests afford a 
shelter for a great number of deer, bears, turkies and other game, with 
>vhich the mountain abounds. Nearly opposite the town of Luray in the 
county of Page, its eastern base is washed by the South, and its western 
base by the North branch ot the Shenandoah river. At this place the 
fliountain torks, and instead of one, there are two distinct mountains, stretch- 
ing in the san^e direction, and running parallel to each other. These 
mountains form what is termed the Fort. Thoy have received the name 
" Fort Moiinti^ins," from the peculiar form of the valley which they enclose, 
xvhich, with the addition ot some slight military fortifications might be ren- 
(^ered impregnable. The only road which crosses this mountain is the one 
which leads from Luray to Woodstock, which is at the upper end of the 
Fort, and which at the expense of much labor is kept passable for light 
loaded carriages. The valley which is enclosed by these mountains, is 
about 25 miles in length and about 3 in mean breadth. It is tolerably 
fruitful in grass, corn, r^e, buck- wheat, potatoes, turnips, &c. At the up- 
per end of the Fort, rises Passage creek, a large and very rapid mountain 
current, which wor1(s several fine merchant mills. Its whole length is 
about 30 miles. The Fort is supposed to be extremely rich in mineral ores, 
of which iron and copper are among its discovered mineral productions. 
There are in the Fort, several common schools, 2 Meeting-houses, 3 grist 
mills, 3 oil mills, a powder factory, several smith shops and a suffiL'ient 
number of mechanics. The population i.s al)out 700 souls. In making an 
excavation for a well, a few weeks sjnre, (.Tan. 1S34,) some fine specimens 
of petrifaction were discovered at a considerable distance below the present 



WESTERN VlRGiN[x\— SHENANDOAM. 447 

surface of the earths These petriftictio7is consist of toadx, S7idkes; &C; ih d 
state of entire preservation. The East and West Fort mountains terttiinate 
abruptly nearly opposite the town of Strasburg. The poitils opposite this 
place are the highest parts of the mountain, being about 1200 feet above th^ 
level of the river. The entrance or mouth of the Fort forms one of the most 
awful defiles in America, The space between the mountains is barely ivide 
enough for a narrow road, which runs on the bank and sometimes iti the! 
bed of the large and rapid creek which rushes impetuously over the rugged 
surface of its channel. On each side of the road the mountain rises so per-- 
pendicularly as to be entirely inaccessible. The East Fort mountain espe- 
cially exhibits the most magnificent scenery, and rock piled on rock, from 
base to top, without a shrub to break the view, and bids defiance to the ap- 
proaches of man. Here, in summer, may be seen great numbers of vul- 
tures basking in the sun, or with expanded wings inhaling the cooling 
breeze. la the caverns which are in this cliff, it is said these vultures re- 
main in a torpid state during the winter. There are some of the finest land- 
scape views from this mountain which can be imagined. At a point nearly 
opposite Woodstock, from the East Fort mountain, the South river presents 
the appearance of three distinct streams of water, crossing the valley from 
the western base of the Blue Ridge, to the foot of the Fort mountain. If an 
observer, station himself on the top of the East mountain, at the N. end, and 
look "down east" the beautiful valley of the South river is presented full to 
his view. The thrifty village of Front Royal with the adjacent country in- 
terspersed with elegant country villas, fertile farms and thick forests alter- 
nately meet the eye. If he look a little higher his hoyizon is bounded by 
tbe indented top of the B'lu'e R'M'ge, which stretches 14. and S. as far as the 
TJ'ision can extend; its surface from base to summit is beautifully diversified 
with cultivated farms and sloping woodlands. If he look W. into the pro- 
fou-lid- abyss below him, he recoils with horror from the awful sight. If he' 
station himself on the N. end of the West rnpuntain; he has'afull view o^ 
the valley of the North rivor. Stra.sburg, which is 4 miles distant, appears' 
a^Imost under his feet?. At a distance of 7 miles, he sees Middletown, 5 miles- 
further he sees Newtown, and at a distance of 20 miles he sees the large an4 
populous town of Winchester, — its stately dwellings and towering steeples 
glittering in the sun. A great part of the county of Frederick is seen in- 
full perspective. But one of the finest landscapes in Virginia, and perhaps- 
in the world, is seen from a point on (he West Fort mountain nearly oppo-' 
site Woodstock. Here, if the observer look towards " the far east," the' 
"blue brow" of the North mountain, which stretches N. and S. further thah^ 
the eye can view, appears fo peep into the clouds and to tower above th(*riV, 
many of which actually sail below its summit. The fertile valley whicfi 
i'iies between the North mountain and Woodstock, is seen so distinctly, that 
a- person who is acquainted with the country, may designate most of the 
farms which are seen from this point, the view from Avhich, extends over a 
country about 15 miles in extent'. 

The town of Woodstock, which is about 5 miles distant, is seen so plain- 
ly, that the observer may count almost every house in that beautiful village. 
Between Woodstock and the mountain (Fort) lies the rich valley Avhich is 
watered by the North branch of the Shenandoah. The river in its mcan- 
derings approaches very near the mountain, and then retreats a considerable 
distance towards Wootlstock, where after making a turn it suddenly returns 
to the mountain without the bend at cither place being perceived. Thus it 



448 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 



alternately approaches the mountain and recedes from it, until it presents 
the appearance of seven distinct rivers running parallel to each other. 

The river at this place, is about 150 feet in width, and forms a beautiful 
sheet of water which sparkles in the sun like a stream of silver. The space 
which is enclosed by each bend of the river is, apparently about large 
enough for a beautiful farm, and the bottoms being abundantly fertile, the 
whole scene presents onu of the most picturesque landscapes in the world. 
Shenandoah is an Indian name, signifying clear water, and like most of the 
Indian names is very appropriate, these rivers being remarkable for their 
transparent waters. In 1831 part of this county which lies between the 
Blue Ridge and the Massanutten mountain was faken off', and with a small 
part of Rockingham county, formed into a new county called Page. When 
the county was first settled, about the year 17o5, its population was com- 
posed principally of Irish and Scotch; but few of their descendants are now 
found within it, as the county became more settled, they were supplanted by 
Germans from Pennsylvania, — and the greater part of its population, now 
consists of their descendants. They are a plain, frugal and industrious 
people. A few years since the German language was very much spoken 
and taught in the schools, but it is now rapidly giving place to the English, 
which is now universally taught in all the schools. 

Population in 1820, 18,9-26— in 1830, 19,750. By the separation of 
Page the population is reduced to 14,000. This county belongs to the 14th 
judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, §3,506 09 — in 1834, 
on lots, $253 33— land, $2,479 68—984 slaves, $246 00—5,575 horses, 
$334 50—22 studs, $128 00—23 coaches, $53 00—27 carryalls, $27 00 
— 16 gigs, $12 65. Total $3,534 16. Expended in educating poor chil- 
dren in 1832, $1,512 16— in 1833, $827 29. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Allen's Cave. In the county of 
Shenandoah, a short distance from the 
town of Front Royal, is Allen's Cave. 
which may with propriety, be styled 
a great natural curiosity. It is situat- 
ed on the right bank of the Shenan- 
doah, about a quarter of a mile from 
the river, in the side of a hill of con- 
siderable elevation. The face of the 
country in its vicinity, is romantic in 
the extreme, being a thick forest of 
oak, pine and cedar, interspersed with 
ledges and clifls of limestone. 

The entrance into this cavern is by 
a gradual descent of about 45". The 
mouth is about 5 feet in width and 15 
in height. After proceeding about 60 
feet, the explorer reaches what may 
be termed the vestibule of this grand 
work of nature, after which the floor 
becomes con)paralivply level. Upon 
looking back, louardb the enlrance 



the beholder is struck with the singu- 
lar beauty and regularity of the mag- 
nificent arch, which is composed of 
solid lime. The cavity here is about 
10 feet in Avidth and 30 in height. 
Proceeding some distance, it becomes 
very narrow and so low, that it is ne- 
cessary to sioop much in order to ad- 
vance. Upon emerging from this 
narrow defile, the admirer of the 
works of nature, is presented with one 
of the most magnificent scenes which 
the fancy can imagine. He finds 
himself ushered into a vast room, the 
extent of which, from end to end, is 
more than 150 feet, and of A-ery con- 
siderable width. The height of the 
roof or ceiling, varies from 10 to 50 
in- 60 feet, forniing some ol the finest 
arches that the eye ever beheld. The 
ceiling and walls of this apartment, 
which i.-; called Sarah's saloon, are 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 



m 



covered with sparry incrustations lextremity of the cavern. Thi.s cham- 
which have been formed by the .ber which is called the Sylph's dress- 
drippings of the water from the roof, ing-roora, is about the size of the sa- 
in some places, they have the appear- loon, with a lofty ceiling of sparry 
ance of pendant icicles; in other places concretions, — once clear as crystal — • 
they bear a strong resemblance to the now rendered dingy by the smoke, 
folds of drapery, and appear to hang It has several outlets, too small to ad- 



in festoons which art can neither ri- 
val or imitate. In some places the 
sparry stalactites resemble the most 



mit the body of a man ; but it is pro- 
bable that if they were enlarged, they 
might lead to other rooms in this sub- 



beautiful sculpture, at one point pre- !terraneous abode, which it is possible 
senting the image of a magnificent |and even probable, may extend to the 
pillar or colossal statue, at another {river. Near the Fairy's bath, is a 
the curved and wavy appearance of ajnarrow passage, which turns to the 



cataract in miniature. If a piece of 
the spar be thrown into a crucible or 
even into a hot coal fire, it fuses, and 
becomes as transparent as glass. 

It is, however, to be regretted, that 
the most beautiful specimens of the 
spar have been abstracted by the 
numerous visiters; and that, the walls 
and roof of Sarah's saloon, which 
were once of the m.ost glittering trans 



right, called the labyrinth. After va- 
rious mazes and intricate windings 
under low arches, so contracted in 
breadth as to admit only one person 
abreast, the winding ceases, and the 
explorer finds himself in a straight 
passage, about 40 feet in length, 3 in 
breadth, and 7 in height, and v.'hich, 
without doubt, forms one of the most 
beautiful, regular and symmetrical 



parency, have been blackened by the 'arches in -the v;orld. Issuing from 
smokeof the pine torches, which have ithis passage the explorer finds him- 
been used in e.xploring it. Upon self in the ball-room, which is decid- 
leaving the saloon, it becomes neces- edly the best room in the cave. The 
sary to ascend about 12 or 15 feet length is 160 or 170 feet, and the 
perpendicular, which is done by breadth at least 30 feet. Here, too, 
means of a ladder, at the top of whicli |as in the other rooms, the hands of 
is a small room, which is evidently 1 vandal visiters, have torn off the 
the highest and yet the closest apart- beautiful spar from the wall, thus 
ment in the rave, as the candles burn having robbed the cave of its glitter- 
less freely here, than in any other ling ornaments, and deprived posteri= 
part of the cavern. On speaking, or|ty in a measure, of one of the most 
striking? with the hand against the m.agnificent scenes that ever met the 



wall the sound is increased to an as- 
tonishing loudness. At the farther 
extremity of this upper apartment is a 



eye o: r.nan. The floor is of soft clay 
and remarkably level and sniootb, 
Here, before the invention of dandies. 



reservoir of water of a circular shape, |tights,corsets, balloon sleeves, prunella 
aboutSfeet in diameter and 4 in depth, jslippers, large connbs and leghorn 
called the Fairy's bath, and within a fiats, the beaux and belies of by -gone 



few feet of the bath, is a small basin 
called the Fairj'-'s wash-bov.d, — both 
formed in the solid rock and full of 
water of the most limpid clearness. 
After leaving this place, the passage 
forks. That passage which leads 
straight forward, passes through some 



days met, and held social parties, and 
while " mingling in the giddy mazes 
of the sprightly dance," the foot and 
hand kept tiiTie vvith the clarionet and 
violin; arid the merry, spng, the wild 
music, the free jest, the- wiity retort 
land the hearty laugh, ail telling of 



small rooms and narrow defiles, until enjoyment, reached . the remotest 
it reaches a larire apartnTien*, at the depths of this spacious grotto, — while 
57 



450 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 



pleased echo caught the sound, audi a fine stream rtinning entirely thro' 
reverberating from grotto to grotto, I it called Passage creek, on which 
told the denies of the place, of the are situated many springs of pure 
mirth and innocent amusement which water at various distances. 
were to be found in the ball-room ofj Mount Hope, P. O. 144 ms. from 
Allen's cave. j R. and 80 S. W. by W. of W. 

Even in these, our degeneralej Mount Jackson, P. O. 157 ms. 
days, the cave is still visited by hun- froin R. and 113 W. of W. It con 



dreds of persons who generally speak- 
in terms of the highest praise of the 
wonders which they have seen in 
this subterranean world. The ex- 
tent of this cavern has never been 



tains 8 dwelling houses, 1 Presby- 
terian house of public worship, 1 
common school, 1 mercantile store, 1 
tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 smith shop, and 
1 boot factory. The country around 



ascertained — but it is supposed to beris a little broken, the soil gray and 
about 1200 feet. sandy, of ordinary quality, produc- 

Cbdar Creek, P. O. 162 miles ing Indian corn, wheat and oats tol- 
from R. and 83 from W. Icrably v>'ell. 

FoRTSMouTH, P. O. 147 ms. from! Strasburg, P. O. 153 ms. from 
R. and 83 W. of W. This village IR. and 89 W. of W., situated in the 
is pleasantly situated in a narrow; northern part of the county, on the 
valley, and in the fork of the North} North branch of the Shenandoah 
and South branches of the Shenan-| river, immediately on the main road 



doah river, surrounded on the south 
and west by the Fort mountain. It 



leading from Woodstock to W^inches- 
ter, 12 ms. N. of the former and 18 



:ontains several dwellia'^ houses, 1 S. of the latter. This is a healthy 
manufacturinfT flour mill. 1 saw mill, and thriving village, containing 78 



1 distillery, and various mechanics. 
Population 30. There are in the im- 
mediate vicinity two houses of public 
worship, the one Baptist, and the oth- 
er free for all denominations. It is 
distant 25 ms. from Wmchester and 
18 from Woodstock. Fortsmouth 
derives its name from Powell's Fort, 
at the mouth of which it is located, 



dwelling houses, 3 houses of public 
worship, (1 Presbyterian, 1 Lutheran, 
and 1 free for all denominations,) 3 
schools, including an academy, (a 
handsome building with a valuable 
lot of land attached, on which has 
been erected out of the income an 
excellent house as a residence for the 
principal.) There are also 3 mer- 



and which is a great natural curiosi- cantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2 
ty, — the valley being formed.by, the taverns, 1 stone and 1 earthen ware 



Massanutten mountain, springing up 
on the west side of the Shenandoah 
river, commencing between New 
Market and Staunton, running south 
Avestand north east until it reaches a 
short distant below New Market, — it 



manufactory, 4 tanyards, 5 cabinet 
makers, 1 turner, 4 blacksmith shops," 
1 plasterer, 3 bricklayers, 2 gu» 
smiths, 5 tailors, 6 boot and shoe fac- 
tories, and 4 cooper shops. Popula- 
tion 470 persons; of whom 6 are 



then breaks off into two mountains,' regular physicians. The inhabitants 
the one running down the North and I are principally Germans, of indus- 
the other down the South branch ofttrious and economical habits. 
the Shenandoah river. These twoi New P^arket, P. V., delightfully 
mountains form Powell's Fort, which situated in the great valley of Vir- 
receives its name from an individual ginia, between the Massanutten and 
who it is said was tlie first settlerj North mountain.s, 120 ms. W. by S. 
within the fort. This Fort, as it is of W. and 150 ms. N. W. of R., in 
called, is thirty miles in length, withllat. 38° 36' 30" N, and lono-. 1° 37' 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 



451 



W. from W. It is a central point 
between the towns of Winchester 
and Staunton, being 50 miles distant 
from either place. The main road 
leading; from the counties of Pendle- 
ton and Hardy, eastward across 
Thornton's Gap in the direction of 
Fredericksburg, intersects the great 
valley road at this place. The town 
was founded about the year 17S4. It 
is at this time three-foui'ths of a m.ile 
in length, containing above one hun- 
dred dwelling houses, with a popu- 
lation of 700 persons. The streets 
are remarkably level, straight and 
well laid out, bearing south 25 west, 
a direction nearly parallel with the 
Massanutten mountain and two miles 
distant from its base. There are 3J 
houses of public worship, viz. I Lu- 
theran, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist, Ij 
large and commodious brick acade-j 
my, in which is taught all thej 
branches of liberal and polite educa- 
tion, 1 book and job printing otiice,! 
5 stores, 3 taverns, 1 resident attor-j 
ney, and 4 regular physicians. — 
There is perhaps no town in the state 
of the same size, where the mechani- 
cal pursuits are earned on to a great- 
er extent than in this. There are 
here in active and extensive opera- 
tion — 1 manufactory of threshing 
machines, (fee, 2 wheelwrights, 4 
cabinet makers and house-joiners, 4 
tanneries, 2 saddle and harness mak- 
ing establishments, 2 chair factories, 
4 boot and shoe manufactories, 3 hat 
factories, 1 silversmith and jeweller, 

1 coppersmith and tin plate worker, 

2 gunsmiths, 2 blacksmiths, 1 lock- 
smith, 1 sley maker, 1 saddletree 
maker, I diaper weaver, and 2 potte- 
ries, at one of which stone ware of a 
superior quality is manufactured. 
There are also in the vicinity 2 forges 
for the manufactory of pig metal into 
bar iron, both of which are at this 
time in active operation. The coun- 
try around abounds in iron ore of the 
best quality. 

The North fork of the Sh.-nan- 



doah river runs within a mile of the 
town on the western side; and is na- 
vigable at high water for boats car- 
rjang one hundred barrels of flour 
to the Plain Mills 2^ miles above the 
town: but the navigation is some- 
what hazardous, as the river is pas- 
sable for boats of this burden only 
during a freshet. The Massanutten 
mountain on the east of the toAvn 
presents a beautiful and unbroken 
vie\y to the eye of an observer, free 
from any spurs, or secondary moun- 
tains, to obstruct his sight, for many 
miles in extent, presenting upon the 
whole a spectacle highly grand and 
picturesque. There is a cascade on 
this mountain about 3| miles from 
the to\^n, which as it appears not to 
be embraced in any written account 
of the State, deserves to be noticed. — 
It presents the curious spectacle of a 
beautiful sheet ef u'ater falling from 
the height of fifty feet perpendicular. 
The large table rock over which the 
water falls is so perfectly level and 
smooth, that the water falls in an en- 
tire and unbroken sheet of several 
yards in width, which it retains until 
it strikes the bottom, sutTiciently far 
from the perpendicular for a person 
to pass conveniently between that 
and the sheet of water, without dan- 
ger of getting wet. This falling 
sheet of water is so perfectly trans- 
parent, that it may be seen for several 
hundred yards, glistening thro' the 
thick surrounding woods, presenting 
a beautiful spectacle. 

Among the rocks of this country 
are the blue and grey limestone, 
slates, sand-stone and burr-stone.-— 
'!'he adjacent country is famed for its 
fertility, and is well adapted to the cul- 
ture of wheat, rye, Indian corn, and 
grass. No country can boast more 
of its irjaltby situation than this ; in 
short nothing seems to be wanting 
to render it among the most desira- 
ble sections of country in the State, 
but a facility of acce.'^s (o market, 
and whenever that is given, it may 



452 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



be confidently predicted, that no part 
of the United States will present 
greater rewards to enteprise and in- 
dustry. 

Stony Cheek, or Siiryock, P. 
0. 162 ms. from K. and J 05 S. W. 
of W.. situated on Stony creek, neai 
the North Fork of Shenandoah. 
The creek empties into the rivfront 
mile E. of this place. It is distant 
8 ms. S. S. W. of Woodstock, and 
35 in a similar direction irom "Win- 
chester. This village contains 17 
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores 



S. W. of W. in lat. 38° 51' N. and 
long. 1° 34' W. of W. C, situated on 
the main valley road 32 ms. S. S. 
W. of Winchester and about 1 mile 
W. of the North Fork of the She- 
nandoah river. It contains besides 
the usual county buildings, 1 18 dwel- 
ling houses, 3 houses of public wor- 
ship, (1 Lutheran, 1 Methodist and 1 
German Reformed,) 1 Masonic Hall, 
1 handsome brick academy. 3 other 
schools, and 2 sabbath schools, I 
printing office from which a weekly 
paper is issued, 5 mercantile stores. 



1 house of public entertainment, T 2 taverns, 3 tan yards, 4 saddlers, 2 



rifle manufactory, and 1 blacksmith 
shop. Population 130 persons; oi 
whom I is a physician. The land 
is fertile, producing well all the ordi- 
nary staples, and the county is thick- 
ly settled. Stoney creek is a bold 
stream, affording some excellent sites 
for manufactories. There are locat- 
ed on it, and within 2 miles of the 



hatters, 5 boot and shoe factories, 5 
house joiners and carpenters, 3 
wheelwrights and chair makers, 4 
tailors, 2 smith shops, 1 earthen and 
1 stone ware manufactory, 1 watch 
maker and silver smith, 1 wag-on 
maker, 1 tm plate worker, 2 saddle- 
tree makers, 2 saddle-tree platers, 2 
bricklaj'ers and masons, and 2 plas- 



village, at various distances, a consi-[t^rers. Population 950 persons; of 
derable number of dwelling houses,' 'hom 3 are resident attorneys, and 
2 extensive manufacturing flour milh; i are ministers and 3 regular physi- 



2 grist mills, 7 saAv mills, 1 well es- 
tablished fulling mill, and 2 wool 
carding machines, 1 still-house, 1 
tannery, and 1 forge in active opera- 
tion, manufacturing pig metal into 
bar iron, and 1 furnace called Co- 
lumbia, with about 200 persons de- 
pendant on it for support. 

WOODSTOCK, P. V. and seat 
of justice, 156 ms. from R and 100' 



cians. 

Couv.iy Courts are held on the 
Monday before the 2d Tuesday in 
every month; — Quarterly in March, 
May, August and November. 

Judge Smith holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 9th of April and Septem^ 
ber 



SMYTH. 

Smyth was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a 
portion of Washington and Wythe. It is bounded W. by Clinch moun- 
tain separating it from Russell, — N. W. and N. by the same mountain, 
separating it from Tazewell,— N. E. and E. by Wythe, — and by the Iron 
mountain separating it from Grayson S. E. and S. It is located on the 
head waters of Holston river. "The ea.stern line dividing Smyth and 
Wythe crosses within fifty yards of the head spring. The county is divi- 
ded into three valleys, — the North. South and Middle Forks of the Hol- 
ston running parallel with the different valleys. The North Fork rises 
between Clinch and Walker's mountains, pursues a northerly course some 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 453 

distance, and then winds to the west. The mountains are lofty, — the bot- 
tom lands are rich and productive. On this fork is found gypsum of the 
best quality, and sufficient in quantity to supply the whole western coun- 
try. In that neighborhood is situated the salt works belonging to Gen'l 
Preston. These works, and King's in Washington county, are denomi- 
nated Sa/iville, — they are within 40 feet of each other. The place has 
risen up in consequence of the salt works. The county line separating 
Smyth and Washington counties runs between them. (For further 
particulars see Saltville in this county.) An experiment lately made on 
the water of Preston's works was attended with complete success, — twenty 
bushels full produced a deposite of five bushels of salt, which weighed one 
hundred and filty-one pounds, shewing it to be in proportion of one-fourth 
to the water wliich contains it. It is supposed that no other water ap- 
proaches this strength, and it is quite free from the slightest quantity of 
bitter nor other foreign matter. From this supply five hundred bushels ol 
salt may be manufactured in twenty-four hours. 

On the middle Ibrk of the Holston are situated the Ch'iih-nicee Svlphter 
Spri/ifi-s, within one mile of the great road. They stand as high for the 
medicinal qualities of their waters as any spring in Virginia, There are 
also in tlic same vicinity several chalybeate springs. The productions 
are wheat, rye. Indian corn, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, hemp, flax, 
and every species of the vine; being one of the best grape counties in Vir- 
ginia. This county is well timbered with the best of white and black 
oak, buckeye, poplar, hickory, black walnut, lynn, pine, sassafras, dog' 
wood, birch, beech, and the spice wood tree. Along the branches are elder 
of diflierent qualities, spruce pine, and the hemlock tree. It also abounds 
with the maple or sugar tree. 1'his tree is more valuable than all others ; 
if it is notched in the month of March, and bored with a small auger or 
gimblet some distance below^ the notch and a tube placed in, one tree will 
afford in a season from 30 to 60 gallons of sweet water, which when boiled. 
will always produce from 3 to 4 pounds -of good sugar, besides the molasses, 
which is superior to any other. The tops of these trees are large, taper- 
ing something like a sugar loaf, the bark is rough and body straight, some 
of them are of a light color, others black. The latter always produce the 
sweetest water. Some of these maple trees grow to an enormous size. 
The wood is precious, and when cut and corded, one' tree will make from 
to 7 cords. The next in size is the yellow poplar, which exceeds in 
growth any timber in the United States. It is no uncommon thing to find 
this timber from 3 to 4 feet and upwards in diameter, and the trunks 44 
feet in height before a limb shoots. The white oak and other timber is in 
proportion. 

There are in this county one cotton manufactory, (at the court house,) 3 
iron works, 14 tan yards, 10 grist mills, 14 houses of public worship, (5 
Methodist, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Baptists, 3 i'ree for all denominations, and 1 
Lutheran,) and 8 taverns or houses of public entertainment. The eleva- 
tion of Davis's town, situated 2 miles from the east line of the county, and 
on Pleasant Hill, is 200 feet above James River at Lynchburg. Popula- 
tion not taken at the last census, the county having been since created, but 
supposed to be between 6 and 7000, of which there are 100 free per- 
sons of color, and 1400 slaves. It belongs to the fourteenth judicial cir- 
cuit and eieth district. Tax paid in 1833, S941 57 — in 1834' on land 
8572 04— 170 slaves, Si 17 50— 2G75 horses, $160 50— 20 studs, 61 -^3 59 



45-4 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



—5 coaches, 810 00—5 carryalls, ^'y 00— I gig, 50 cts. Total, $989 04. 
No report of school commissiom'is for 1832. Expcndtfd in educating poor 
children in 1833, $220 20. 

TOWNS, VILLA.GES, POST OFFICES, «Stc. 



MARION P. V. and count?/ r.mt 
was located two years since. The im- 
provements have rapidly progressed 
A handsome court house, clerk's of 
fice, and jail, have been erected, lU 
pr 12 neat dwelling houses have been 
completed and several others are in 
progress of erection, 2 mercantile 
stores have been established, and 2 
others are about going into operation 
One cotton manufactory on a small 
scale, and various mechanical pur- 
suits are carried on ; the principal 
of which are briclclaying, stone ma- 
sonry, house carpentry, tailoring, 
saddlery, and blacksmithiag. Popu 
Jation about 1 00 persons: of whom 
3 are resident attorneys, and 2 regu 
}ar physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 
Thursday after the third Monday in 
every month; Quarterly in Febru- 
ary, May, July an.d October. 

Judge Estill holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Lavv and Chance- 
ry on the Monday after the fourth 
Jifonday in April, and September. 

Plkasant Hill, P. O. 209 ms. 
from 11. and 344 S. W. by W. of W. 

Saltville, p. O. This settle- 
ment derives its name from the jn.slly 
^relebrated Saltworks of Preston and 
King. Preston's welt being located 
in Smyth, and King's in Washing- 
ton county. They are not more than 
forty feet apart, the line dividing the 
two counties running between the 
wells. The following topographical, 
geological and general remarks res- 
pecting them, and the surrounding 
country, are taken from an article 
published in the Abingdon Republi- 
can. 

"The place called Saltville, is situ- 
ated in a narrow plain of about 7()tl 
acres of land, between the Rich Val- 



ley and the North Fork of the Hol- 
ston, having its greatest length from 
•he northeast to the southwest, bound- 
ed on the eastern side by conical 
peaks and ridges which are appen- 
dages of AValker's mountain: and on 
the western side by conical peaks 
and highland intervening between it 
and the North fork of the Ilolston ri- 
ver, which washes their bases for many 
miles. This branch of the Holston 
is declared a public highway, but has 
many obstructions, which it is be- 
lieved could be removed by expend- 
lure of $G,000, so as to be suitable for 
hatteaux and flat boats, from Saltville, 
to its mouth at Kingsport, a distance 
of 65 miles by water. 

"The present point of manufactur- 
ing salt is on the bank of the river, 
to which for convenience of timber 
md fuel the water is conveyed, about 
two miles, in a northwardly course, 
n wooden tubes. On the opposite 
bank of the river lies Little moun- 
tain, an appendage of Clinch motm- 
tain, which is parallel and continuous 
with that mountain for hundreds of 
miles, and between which, lies a nar- 
rov; stoney valle\r, commonly called 
the Poor Valley. The numerous 
streams having their source in the 
Clinch mountain, pass through tlie 
breaks of Little mountain into the 
North Fork, along its course. To the 
northwest of Clinch mountain, and 
parallel with it, lie Copper Ridge, 
Powel's mountain, Cumberland moun- 
tains, and the Log mountains, having 
narrow valleys; and the rivers Clinch, 
Powel's and Cumberland, and their 
waters, interspersing, beautifying and 
enriching, these inviting, but for tlie 
present, neglected regions. Beyond 
TiOg mountains and the adjacent 
ridi^i'S in Kentucky, lie streams 



WESTERN VlIiGlNlA— SMYTH. 



emptying into the Ohio; on one of 
which is the Goose Creek Salt Manu- 
factory, about 150 miles from Salt- 
ville. 

"Viewinof the country from Salt- 
ville, towards the south of Walker's 
mountain, fine valleys and fertile 
ridges are passed before you reach 
the middle and south fork of Holston 
river, and thence towards the south- 
west; passing many tributaries, you 
cross the VVatauga, French Broad, 
Nolachucky, and the hundred streams 
rising in this mountain district, and 
wincfing their way westward, to form 
the broad and beautiful Tennessee 
river; whilst those running from the 
same quarter eastwardly, compose 



extremities. With amazement still 
heightened, would you behold from 
the great White Top, (the neutral 
ground of North Carolina, Virginia 
and Tennessee,) the Spinal Allegha- 
ny and the Blue Ridge, with its gra- 
nite cliffs and basaltic rocks, running 
diagonally athwart each other, and as 
if in the fuvniative day of their crca- 
tion, each of these liuge columns of 
uplifted matter had been shot forward 
from the north and northeast ; and 
neither having tho advantage of force 
over the other, a contest terrible com- 
menced, in which the champions 
both discomfitted, glanced: each tak- 
ing its own path southwardly, leaving 
their cast away remnants piled fear- 



the bold and restless waters of fully "Ossa upon Pel ion, and Pelion 



the Great Kanawha, — all adding 
utility and beauty ; either to the 
valleys bordering on the large rivers, 
or the irregular but level depressions 
called coves, hemmed in all around 
except a single passway; which 
sometimes exhibits a cataract in its 
little stream. 

"East of the New River waters, 
the Alleghany mountain directs the 
streams to the Atlantic, and at some 
points you might stand with one foot 
in the waters of the Atlantic, the 
other in those which wend their Aveary 
way to the hot Mexican gulph, and 
the great mart for the effective indus- 
try of the millions of people which 



upon Ossa," rolling confusedly into 
thousands of rude shapes. But in 
this field of old warring elements are 
every where, as you would also per- 
ceive, evidences presented, that the 
principle of order has been passing 
and nestling, has changed and given 
new capacities; striking the waste 
"rocks with the rod," millions of 
springs of purest water gushed forth; 
the uptorn hills became verdant, and 
all the glories of redundant vegeta- 
tion do more than honor to the silent 
mountains; thousands of choicest 
animals browse and revel on the spon- 
taneous herbage; and man invited 
last, has made his home in these hich 



the valley of the Mississippi, is invit- j places ; and being far removed from 
ing from other extremes tothose parts. Ithe great commercial haunts of luxu- 
Standing at such a point, your admira-ry and vice, hope may long rest in 
tion would be excited, that amidst such jsecurit}^ that here at least, some 
a boundless view of masses beyond ishaie — a large share of health, hap 



masses, of high parallel and irregu 
Jar mountains, the rivers should all 
find their way to their destinations, 
without falls or other impediments to 
rravigation, which the skill and ener- 
gies of man, at trifling expense, may 
not remove: thus adding vigor to the 



piness, independence and freedom 
will be enjoyed? Why do the in- 
habitants of these regions, so bounte- 
ously fitted for their use, desert them 
for Eldorado's in the great and labor- 
ing and slave holding and money 
grasping west ? 'J\>o niany have 



giant heart, the Estuary of our ihou-muil, have lefttluir mountaiiLS, — but 
sand rivers, which is to receive, com- the day of return is commencing 
mercially cherish and return, as h in our favor; itwasnotsowilhiho.se 
were, the vitalized fluids to ail the 'who listened !o the s-on;r of William 



456 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



Tell; for deeds of arms when neces- 
sity calls; or tor hearth-talks 'in pip- 
ing times of peace,' there is no 'place 
like a home in the mountains and in 
the valleys.' You have no doubt 
seen the surprise of strano-ers on the 
highway, when reaching in some 
parts of this country (as Burk's gar- 
den with its ten thousand elevated 
level acres) the first view of valleys 
below, in foggy mornings; whilst on 
the mountain the sun is brilliantly 
beaming; the stranger's eye will be 
arrested with what he supposes is a 
broad and lengthened lake below. 
The deception is perfect, the very 
waves are seen rolling and tempest 
tossed, nor will the appearance of 
islands and of trees breaking through 
the mist as it evaporates, nor the 



high, like cliffs of rock. The coun- 
ties of Green, Washington, Sullivan. 
Campbell, Claiborne, Anderson, 
Knox, Rhea, Hamilton in Tennessee, 
Harlan, Ky., Ash. Buncomb, Ruth- 
erford and other counties of North 
Carolina, and ?.'Ionroe, Giles, Mont- 
gomery, Floyd, Grayson, Preston, 
Wythe and other counties in Vir- 
ginia abound in exhaustless quanti- 
ties of iron, and many of those coun- 
ties have quarries of various sorts of 
stone coal and innumerable seats for 
water power, 

"In Grayson and Wythe are large 
bodies of rich copper ore, not yet 
fully tested, and in the latter county, 
lead ore of the best quality, worked 
by Col. James White and Alexander 
Pierce, — what amount of lead could 
be made is unknown, as the ore bank 



sounds of ploughmen, the screaking 
of iron works, or the monotonous I seems inexhaustible, and coal in 
beat of the forge hammer, issuing [abundance, as near ss Graham's 
from the gulph below (till then un- 1 forge and iron furnace. The capaci- 
heard of,) dispel the optical illusion, |ty of the soil to produce different 
— the rolling mi.st must be disper- sorts of timber after the first is cut 
sed before he can believe the decep- off is very remarkable in this coun- 

try-^those acquainted with the soil 
and first growth of timber can fore- 
tell what vvill be the sei^ond and third 
growth on land once cultivated or on 
new land. 

"Preston's Saltville land contains 
a description of millstones, easily 
quarried, v^'hich are equal to the best 



tion. 

*'Let the James River improve- 
ments have an arm extended towards 
the Tennessee, and the latter be im- 
proved with that spirit which has 
characterized Tennessee for the last 
twelve months; or let a Macadam 
road be constructed ihroujrh the natu- 



ral depression of all the m.ountains, i French burr stones for flour mills 

from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, land at various points in the vicinity, 

and it requires only the slightest and in Russell county are quarries of 



knowledge of things, to be convinced 
that in internal resources no part of 
the union can vie with this, especially 
in minerals. Preston's salt-works 
are in Smyth county, and King's in 
Washington, and the same Counties 
abound in immense banks of iron 
ore. In the adjoining county of Car- 
ter, are above twenty iron making es 



various marbles. In the valleys, 
buried in the soil, are innumerable 
rounded sandstone recks, some of 
which are flinty, others of marly in- 
gredients, and many such loose 
stones occupy the shoaly beds of the 
streams; but the channels of all 
streams are chiefly bedded by lime- 
stone, mica, sandstone, and slaty for- 



tablishments now in operation, some mations, whose lamella or divisions 
of which are sm.all bloomeries, and are seldom horizontal, until you ar= 
in som.e places solid masses of ore, rive at the level of the great western 
containing seventy-five per cent of rivers. You m.ay here find ledges 
metal, are exposed thirfv or forty feet|of rnrks ext'-nditiL; hundicd;- of miles 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



457 



in a perpendicular posture, occasion- 
ally broken where ridges transverse 
each other; but in the general these 
ledges are either massive and of wav- 
ing configuration and striated irregu- 
larly, or are inclined at angles whose 
medium may be 45 degrees of the 
horizon, and it would seem, that they 
had perpetually sought to reach that 
angle, notwithstanding such promi- 
nent failures so to do. The declin- 
ing direction is continuous through 
the body of the hills and ridges 
generally, and the upper plane is 
facing the south, as far as parallelism 
with the general course of the ridges 
will permit; and in consequence of 
this southern exposure of the planes 
of the rocks in all the mountains 
vVost of the Alleghany to the verge 
of those mountains east of the Mis- 
sissippi, chemical nature has not the 
same variety of surface to work upon, 
that it has where the upward direc- 
tion of the rocks expose their edges, 
on the northwardly side of the ridges, 
and as might be expected, the south- 
ern faces are comparatively barren, 
whilst the opposite side is rich and 
productive; and such differences are 
observable even on the south side, 
where deep ravines expose the broken 
ends of rocks one side, and their 
rather plane surface on the other. 
This conformation holds immense 
quantities of water and pours it forth 
even on the pinnacles of the highest 
hills, decomposing the ground by 
.winter freezes and summer drought, 
.and adding fertility even to the rocks; 
the timber growing to enormous 
sizes, by passing its roots into the in- 
terstices of rocks. The region of 
North Carolina and Tennessee, in 
which gold is found, about 60 to 100 
miles from Saltville, borders on the I 
primitive granite and basaltic walls: 
that rise under the Blue Ridge, and| 
are rarely exposed on its- western! 
face; and in Virginia, the copper 
mines of Grayson and Wythe are noti 
remote from similar cousliuctions ' 
58 



The lead, iron and salt minerals are 
found in, or bedded upon limestone, 
slate and other rocks of the transi- 
tion kind, while stone coal and gyp- 
sum and sandstone are evidently ail 
of a much later formaton, as they do 
not run under, but stop short, on 
reaching masses of primitive and 
transition rocks. The great upper 
body of the Clinch and Cumberland 
mountains, and their appending 
chains are chiefly formed of strata 
and irregular masses of sandstone, 
which is undergoing great changes, 
decomposing in some parts, and in- 
creasing and hardening in others ; 
iuuch of the limestone composing 
the basis of these mountains is a very 
coarse and impure carbonate. The 
multitude of sulphur and chalybeate, 
hot and cold springs, and their vari- 
ous medicinal qualities in Bath, Mon- 
roe, Buncorab and other places that 
deserve to have celebrity for their 
waters, e^ohibit astonishing chemical 
changes y^.•t going on far below the 
earth's surface. After passing west- 
vvardiy, bejrond the verge of thess 
broken ranges, you perceive great 
uaiformity and order in the confor- 
mations of .rocks and soils. The 
rivers and creeks are based with good 
limestone, lamraallated horizontally, 
and having fissures at unequal dis- 
tances, extending perpendicularly to 
great depths. Commencing at the 
surface, there will be found rich, 
loamy soils, and clays, often mixed 
with gravel or sandstone to the depth 
of six or ten feet, then limestone as 
described, next a white coarse lime- 
stone four to eight feet, in one, two. 
or three strata, , next limestone of 
thicker layers, sometimes fifty feet ; 
then a layer of gray, blue, or black 
flint, three to six feet ; next blue brit- 
tled limestone all fissured and 1am- 
mellar, then slate of a dark brittle 
kind, horizontal and of considerable 
depth, containing brilliant yellow, 
oval lumps of .sulphur and iron, be- 
low whi'h HIP layers of bard, flinty, 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 



dark rocks, with occasional layers of 
slate. At places like these, and other 
formations of a standard kind, those 
who would undertake to classify 
rocks into different ages, might form 
plausible theories which would 'van- 
ish into thin air' when tested by the 
mixed up productions of this moun- 
tainous country. Here rude shapes 
of simple organization are sometimes 
seen in the transition, or what little 
agrees with the secondary limestone 
of the west. 

"Saltville was the property of! 
General William Campbell, the hero 
of Kings' mountain, and after his 
decease his only child Sarah, mar j 
ried General Francis Preston, who 
rented the well and salt marsh to| 
Wm. King, an enterprising young; 
Irishman, who conducted the busi-i 
ness profitably, returned to Ireland 1 
for his father and brothers and sisters, | 
and in a few years in )>artnershipj 
with. the late Josiah Nigii^of Nasji-j 
ville, and other vvorlhy mercantile 
partners, on whom fortune has al- 
ways smiled, had amassed very hand- 
some profits.- Wm; King apprised 
General Preston and lady, |ii^t & 
tract of land adjoining theirs was for 
sale, and advised them to purchase, 
as salt-water could be procured upon 
it, and upon their declining, he pur- 
chased it for about §2,000. 
'• Kingand Nichol then dug a twelve 
foot square well, cribbing it with 
■timber, and paying the Rev. Mr. Col-i 
ley about $2,000 for its expenses, un-j 
til the opening was about two hun- 
dred feet in depth. King had mark-| 
ed out the spot and declared he v^-ouldj 
go on until water was found, and 
.Nichol withdrawing from the con-| 
cern, on digging twelve feet deeper, J 
the well filled to Avithin forty feet ofj 
the surface of the earth with salt 
water, of which thirty-two gallons| 
would make, on drying the salt, a I 
measured bushel of 50 lbs. w^eight.I 
This wdH on the 6th of April, 1797,' 
and the quantity of water being in-; 



exhaustible, by any use made of it, 
salt was reduced from $5 to $1 50 
cts. per bushel ; and a more liberal 
rent was given General Preston of 
89,000 per annum for his Avell, which 
then ceased to be worked ; and the 
parties continued on the most friend- 
ly terms towards each others' wel- 
fare. William King having in view 
to encourage every branch of indus- 
try, and calculating that thereby irar 
mense wealth would flow to himself, 
enlarged bis mercantile pursuits, 
dealt with great liberality, and be- 
coming very popular, his wealth so 
increased, that at his death, the 13th 
October, 1808, his personal estate 
was estimated at above one million 
dollars. 

"Preston's and King's works were 
then conducted by h?s widow, now 
Mrs. F. Smith, James King and 
Wm. Trigg, as devisees of a life 
estate; and since by Col. Jas. White; 
at present by Wm. King &- Co.; Mr. 
King being the only son living of 
James King and devisee of the es- 
tate in remainder from his uncle 
Wm. King, who died wifhout chil- 
dren. Gen. Preston's and King's 
w'orks in the first lease to Col. White 
were rented at $30,000 each per an- 
num, but have not been so productive 
of late years as is understood. 

"During the year 18S2, Gen. Pres- 
ton not being satisfied with the good- 
ness of his well, employed Mr. An- 
thony, an ingenious mechanic and 
partner of Dubrough's iu a patent 
plan of boring, to sink cast iron tubes 
of five inch bore 218 feet or the 
depth necessary, where was found a 
supply of salt-water, sufficient foT 
400 bushels of salt daily, the water 
being stronger than any known, 22 
to 24 gallons producing 50 lbs. salt. 

"The space in which good salt- 
water can be procured in large quan- 
tities is very small — in the vicinity 
of Saltville has been expended above 
$40,000 in fruitless digging and bor- 
ing by the owners of laud. Pres- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA—SMYTH. 



459 



ton's new tubed well is only 40 yards 
from King's, and an experiment on 
King's land, within 40 feet of the 
old well made last month, produced 
no water at the depth of 270 feet, 
though the borings were for many 
feet through the salt rock, and partly 
through gypsum, blue and red clay 
and half formed sand stone. — The 
formation below the depth of 200 
feet, in which salt-water is found, 
seems to be on a slaty basis, at an in- 
clination of about 15 degrees facing 
the south east, and in King's old 
ivell, whence has been drawn water 
for 40,000 bushels of salt in the last 
60 days, there are large irregular 
columns of plaster or gy^psum, and a 
plaster roof supporting the ground 
above, the interior clay for 40 or 
more feet in some directions having 
been washed away. Into these open- 
ings near 100 cords of wood were 
thrown, but all disappeai'ed. From 
all the borings and the most careful 
observation, it is evident, at this place, 
that both the sand-stone and plaster 



Anthony the use of a syphon, half, a 
mile in length to draw the water from 
the well, without a force pump; and 
the facility of conveying the water 
to wood or more convenient point* of 
navigation, is now clearly tested by 
its transfer in tubes two miles. Salt 
at the works is now reduced to two 
cents per pound, which will, no 
doubt, cause more economy to be 
used in its manufacture and transpor- 
tation ; so far, there appears, how- 
ever, to have been no advantage taken 
of the great evaporating improv.e- 
ments used at the salines in New 
York, or the sugar factories of tlie 
South, At Saltville, the furnaces 
are trenches dug in the earth, the 
kettles several inches thick-^the fur- 
nace doors large and open, and placed 
under open sheds ; and in some in- 
stances streams of fresh water sw^eep- 
ing from the hills Lssue out of the 
furnace flues; but doubtless the pre- 
sent proprietors will make the neces- 
sary' improvements. The salt made 
is free from all impurity, its chrys- 



are above, and of more recent forma- jta Is are large by slow, and fine by 
tion than the muriate of soda. jfapid evaporation; and white and 

"The crater-like sides of the tran- Ibrilliant, and when thrown from, the 
sition rocks exposed around Saltville, 'basket, soon becomt'S as dry as corn 
at some points, into which the plaster imeal; never deliquescing or giving 
never intrudes, has given rise to ajoffany water, even in the wettest 
conjecture, that at some ancient peri- 1 weather. No se.ttling or clarifying 
od, the plane on which stands Salt- process is necessafy, the water being 
ville, was as high as the adjacent la clear semi-transparent, somewhat 
hills; and that by a dissolution ofjwiritish %md, which after being re- 



the saline substratum which the river 
{being lower) may have received, the 
upper earth gave way, throwing the 
rocks into their present disjointed 
state, and the surface of all which 
has been levelled by the washings 
from the hills, and by the impercep- 
tible workings of time: and this con- 



leased frorh it« gt«at pressure in the 
deep parts of the well, seems incapa- 
ble of holding in solution, the former 
quantity of saline material. ' The 
slight excess of muriatic acid over 
the soda is united in the boiling \vith 
some tree gypsum, and precipitated 
to the bottom, where attaching itselt 



jecture would seem to be supported ito the mettle and becoming heated, 
by the numerous bones and teeth ofjadditions of salt are constantly made, 
the Mastodon and other animals found itill it endangers breaking the kettle, 
at any depth yet approached, land is very difficult (once weekly) to 

"The surface of the saltwater be-lseparatc from the iron by pick-axes, 
ing some thirty feet higher than the] In the whole process of manufactur- 
rjver water, has suggested to Mr. 'ing this water, no trace ot iodine or 



460 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— TAZEWELL. 



bittern water is to be found — and no 
species of settling or clarifying is 
necessary, the salt being deposited as 
soon as milk warm, is three or four 
times daily ladled out of kettles of 
96 gallons each. At present, mea- 
dow lands, pasture and farming to 
the extent of 2,.500 acres appears to 
be in use; a saw mill, two grist 
mills and about 100 persons, and as 
many horses, compose the force of 
the place; but as the market is limit- 
ed, and not more than four cords of 
wood are necessary to make 100 
bushels of salt, the apparatus of the 
place is unnecessarily large and 
wasteful. 

"The gypsum-beds on the Saltville 
lands are perhaps the most conven- 
ient and abundant in the world, be- 
ing only five to ten feet from the sur- 



face of the earth and of the very best 
quality. Hundreds of boats and 
wagons could be usefully employed 
m its transportation, as the whole 
lands of this interior country are ad- 
mirably adapted to its use." 

"There are few places in the world 
which can vie with Saltville in beau- 
ty and novelty of scenery. The ex- 
tended meadows, — rich ridges — high, 
conical peaks, — mountain coves, — • 
clear springs, and the remarkable 
verdure covering the soil — set off to 
great advantage the lofty Clinch 
mountain. The Chilhoway springs 
are in the vicinity, and often the 
summer visiters add new interest." 

Seven Mile Ford, P. Q. 362 
ms. S. W. by W. of W., and 287 
from R. 



Tazewell was created by act of Assembly in 1799, and formed out of 
portions of Russell and Wythe counties. It is bounded N. by Tug Fork 
of Sandy river, separating it from Logan, — N. E. by Giles, — E. and S. E. 
by Walker's mountain, separating it from Wythe, — S. bj'- Clinch mountain, 
separating it from Smyth, — S. W. by Russell, — and W. by Floyd county, 
Kentucky. Its mean length is 66f miles, mean breadth 10|; and area 
1,305 square miles: — Extending in lat. from 36° 54' to 37° 32' N. and in 
long, from 4° to 5° 12' W. of W. C. It is situated immediately within the 
vicinity of the sources of Clinch and Great Sandy rivers. The Clinch takes 
its rise seven miles N. E. of Jeftersonsville, and pursues a course nearly W. 
From the eastern section of the county, the great Kanawha receives many 
tributary branches; the prmcipal of which are the Blue Stone and Wolfe 
creeks. These have their sources v/ithin a few miles of .Tefiersonsville, 
and after some inconsiderable meanderings assume a N. E. direction. This 
county is traversed by several ranges of mountains, some of which rise to 
an immense height; the chief of which are the Clinch, Rich, East River, 
and Paintlick. Their general course is a little S. of W. Between some 
of these mountains are interspersed beautiful valleys, of a black, deep and 
rich soil, surprisingly fertile, and perhaps inferior to no county in the state 
for grass, which thickly covers every cultivated portion to the very tops of 
the mountains. Ten miles N. E. is Abb's vallej'^ a delightful vale. — Situ- 
ated at its entrance is the Stojicfort, a large circular wall of stone, bearing 
on its image the stamp of great antiquity, from the ages of the trees on it, 
and various other data. The modern savages that were first found in pos- 
session of this county appear totally ignorant, not only of this ancient cas- 
tle, but of other relics of antiquity in different parts of this valley. Here 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— TAZEWELL. 4G1 

areslso deposited in lonely caverns, human skeletons of both sexes, and of 
various ages preserving in their composition an outline of those general 
features that characterise the Indian race. When brought into contact with 
the external air, they quickly moulder into dust. Five miles S. W. of Jef- 
fersonsville is a broken continuation of Rich mountain, termed Morris's 
Nob, a noted object of curiosity. Near its S. W. extremity, and 12 miles 
from the county seat, is the Maiden Spring Cove, a flourishing settlement, 
watered by the Maiden Spring, a S. E. branch of Clinch river. On the 
summit of Rich mountain, in view, and one and a halt miles S. is a pre- 
cipitous ledge of rocks, of stupendous height, called the Peak — command- 
ing a magnificent view of the surrounding country for 20 or 30 miles. 
From this, some 4 or 5 miles a little S. of E. may be seen on the top of 
Clinch mountain (immediately before it divides to form Burk's Garden) a 
romantic assemblage of huge rocks, thrown together by the hand of nature, 
in the wildest confusion, clothed with a variety of perennial growth and 
matted with impenetrable thickets of laurel; while far beneath are formed 
between their inter.?iices, horrible caverns, and subterraneous recesses, the 
retreat of numerous wild beasts, that frequent the surrounding wilderness, 
hence its name of Bear Toicn. On this spot flourishes extensive groves of 
balsam copayia, a variety of copaifera officinalis and other strange vegeta- 
ble growth not found elsewhere in this region of countrj'. 

Inexhaustible quarries of limestone rock, extending in a series of vertical 
strata from N. E. to S. W. are found in many pnrls of the county. Stretch- 
ing across the northern boundary are extensive beds of stone coal of excel-, 
lent quality. 

The principle staples are cattle, horses, hogs, feathers, tow and flax-linen, 
beeswax, genseng, seneca, snakeroot, serpentaria, &c. &c. 

Compared with the elevation of the water in Great Kanawha, at the influx 
of the Greenbrier, ascertained to be 1,33-3 feet, the lowest elevation thatcari, 
be given to the central mountain valleys of this county must be 1,500 feet; 
and the mean relative height of the arable soil of the county, at the lowest 
estimate 1,200 feet. 

Population in 1830, r>,749. It belongs to the fifteenth judicial circuit, 
and eighth district. Taxes paid state government in 1833, $686 3.5 — in 
1834, on lots, $14 88— on land, 313 11—426 slaves, $106 50—2851 
horses, $171 06—14 studs, $117 00—5 carryalls, $5 00— Total, $727 
55. No report of school commissioner for 1S32. Expended in educating 
poor children in 1833, $184 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 

Blue Stone, P. O. 279 ms. S. W. jed. It is insulated by Clinch moun- 



ofR. and 337 S.W.ofW. -Situated on 
Blue Stone river, in the southern part 
of the county. 

Burk's Garden, P. O. 274 ms. 
W. of R. and 349 from W.— Situat- 
ed 10 ms. E. of JefTersonsville. 
Burk's Garden is one of the most re- 
markable spots in Western Virginia, 



tain, except a narrow pass through 
which its waters, by uniting into one 
stream, are discharged into Wolf 
creek, — its form is somewhat oval, 
1 1 miles long and 5 wide, a beautiful 
and perfect level, and naturally very 
fertile. The settlement contains 62 
families, amounting to 450 souls. 



but being out of the track of the tou-j There are 1 house of public worship, 
yists, it has not hitherto been describ-' free for all denominations, 1 exten 



4G2 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— TYLER. 



sive manufacturing flour mill, 2 tan-' 
yards, and various mechanics. It is 
well timbered with sugar maple, cher- 
ry and white oak. The under growth 
consists of Crab apple and hawthorn. 
JEFFERSONVILLE, P. T. and 
coibnly seat, 352 ms. S. W. by W. of 
Washington,— 290 a little S. of W. 
from Richmond, — and 30 ms. N. W. 
by W. of Evansham in Wythe coun- 
ty;_lat. 37° 05' N. and long. 4° 32'jrew/;e7 
W. of W. C. — Situated on the south 
side of Clinch river, one mile from 
its bank, and near the base of the 
Rich mountain. Besides the ordina- 
ry county buildings, it contains 20 
dwelling houses, 1 house of public 
worship, free for all denominations, 1 
common school, 4 mercantile stores, 
2 taverns, 1 tan yard, J saddler, 6 



joiners, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 
blacksmith, 2 hatters, 1 painter and 1 
grist mill — and a manufacturing flour 
mill is situated a mile to the north of 
the village. Population 150 persons; 
of whom 2 are attornies, and 2 regu- 
lar physicians. 

County Courts are held on the ^d 
Monday in every month ; — Quarter- 
ly in April, June, August, and No- 



Circuit Superior Courts of Law 
and Chancery are held on the 22^ 
nf April and 23d of September, by 
Judge Estill. 

Four miles N. W. of this village 
are situated CeriPs Mineral Springs, 
which bid fair to rival any mineral 
waters that have yet been discovered 
in the w^estern country. 



TYI.ER. 

Tyier was created hy Act of Assembly in the year 1814, and formed 
from a portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by Marshall, — N. E. 
by Greene co. of Pa., and Monongalia of Va. — E. and S. E. by Harri- 
son, — S. and S. W. by Wood, — and W. by the Ohio river, separating it 
from Washington county, Ohio, — and N. W. by the same river separating 
it from Monroe county. Its mean length is 27^ miles — mean breadth 23 ; 
and area 855 sq. miles; — extending in lat. from 39° 13' to 39° 42' and in 
Jong, from 3° 25' to 4° 12' W. of W. C. This county declines to the 
west towards the Ohio, and is drained by Middle Island and Fishing creeks, 
both running diagonally through the county and emptying into the Ohio. 
The surface is exceedingly hilly and broken, but the soil is generally of 
excellent quality. Population in 1820, 2,314, — 1830, 4,104. It belongs to 
the twentieth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax — no returns. Ex- 
pended in educating poor children in 1832, $259 46— in 1833, $309 23. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Oentreville, — situated on the 
west bank of Middle Island Creek, 
7 ms. E. of Middlebourn, and 16 
from Sistersville. It contains 15 
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 
and several mechanics. 

Fishing Creek, P.O. 330 ms. from 
R. and 266 N. W. by W. of AV. 
This P. O. is siluated on the head 
water.s of the creek of the .^Tinie nnme. 



which is a small stream rising in 
Tyler, flowing nearly N. W. in a 
winding course, and which about 50 
ms. from its source empties into the 
Ohio about 39 ms. below Wheeling. 

Gkape Island, P. O. 316 ms. 
from K. and 289 W. of W. 

Ingram's Mills, P. O. 313 ms. 
from R. and 279 from W. 

MIDDLEBOURN. P V and 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WASHINGTON. 



463 



seat of justice, 307 ntis. from R. and 
273 W. of W. in lat. SO'^ 32' N. and 
long. 3° 55' W. of W,, situated on 
Middle Island creek, 45 ms. S. W. 
of Wheeling. It contains besides 
the ordinary county buildings, 25 
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house 
of worship, 1 common school, 2 mer- 
cantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 manufac- 
turing flour mill, 1 tan yard, and 1 
saddler. The principal mechanics 
ore cabinet makers, house-joiners, and 
blacksmiths. In the neighborhood 
of this place on Middle Island creek, 
there is an excellent site for a manu- 
factory. The stream is large, and 
after making a bend, five miles in ex- 
tent, it returns to within 90 feet of 
the same bed, — making a fall at the 
nearest point of approximation of 12 
or 15 feet. It is thought that there 
is an abundance of iron ore and stone 
coal contiguous to this site. Middle 
Island creek is one of the principal 
streams watering this county, — it is 
about 200 miles in length, running a 
course east and west through a fer- 
tile valley, and emptying into the 
Ohio river. Population 160 persons: 
of whom 1 is a resident attorney, and 
two are regular physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 'Zd 



\ Monday in every month ; Quarterly 
in March, June, Avgust and Noveni' 
her. 

JuDGF Fry holds his Circuit Su- 
perior Courts of Law and Chancery 
on the24/A of April and September. 

Pine Grove, P. O. 327 ms. from 
R. and 247 W. of W. 

SisTERsviLLE, P. O. 320 ms. from 
R. and 274 N. W. of W. This vil- 
lage is pleasantly situated on the south 
bank oi Ohio river, 50 ms. N. W. by 
W. of Clarksburg in Harrison Co., 
in a remarkably healthy neighbor- 
hood, commanding a fine view of the 
river; and possessing one of the best 
landings for steamboats and other 
craft on the Ohio. It contains about 
30 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile 
stores, 2 taverns, a school house, 1 
lanyard, and various mechanics. — 
Population about 200 persons; of 
whom 1 is a regular physician. This 
town was laid out in 1814 by com- 
missioners appointed by the Legisla- 
ture, as the county seat of Tyler; but 
by a petition presented from the in- 
habitants at the session of '15 and. ' 1 6, 
the Legislature was induced to re- 
move the seat of justice to Middle- 
bourne, 9 ms. nearly east from this 
place. 



Washington. 

Washington was created by Act of Assembly in 1777, and formed 
from a portion of the now extinct county of Fincaslle. It is bounded N. 
by Clinch mountain, separating it from Russell, — -E. by Smyth, — S. E. by 
Grayson,— S. by Carter county of Tennessee. — S. W. by Sullivan county 
of the same state, — and W. by Scott. Mean length (including Smyth) 41 
miles, — mean breadth 18f; and area 754 square miles. — We have no 
means of ascertaining its precise extent since the severance of Smyth ; but 
an approximation may be made by reference to that County. It extends in 
lat. from 36^ 35' (o 36<^ 52' N. and in long, from 4° 34' to 5° 19' W. of 
W. C. This county occupies part of the valley between the Blue Ridge 
and Clinch mountains, and is watered by the North, Middle, and South 
Forks of Holston, which rise in Wythe and flow through this county, di- 
viding it into three fertile valleys. But Washington is not less celebrated 
for its valuable minerals, than its fertile soil, excellent pasturage, and de- 
lightful climate. The gypsum found in this county in great quantities, is 



464 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WASHINGTON, 



said to be equal, if not superior to tliat of Nova Scotia, and is now being 
extensively applied to the same purposes by the farmers of Western Vir- 
ginia and Tennessee. A full account of its valuable salt works and other 
minerals has however already been given in connexion with Smyth coun- 
ty, — especially in the article on Saltville, — which village is divided by 
the line which separates the two counties. 

Population in 1820, 12,444, — 1830, 15,014, — both of which numera- 
tions were taken before the severance of Smyth. It belongs to the fifteenth 
judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in 1834 on lots, 6195 25 — 
land, $1,131 96—1122 slaves, $280 50—5364 horses, $321 84—39 
studs, $226 00—33 coaches, $94 50-31 carryalls, $31 00—6 gigs. 
$4 50. Total, $2286 10. The poor children in this county are educated 
on the district system, and we have no means at present of of ascertaining 
the exact amount; 



TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



ABINGDON. P. T. and seat of 
justice, 309 ms. S. W. of R. and 385 
S. W. by W. of W. in N. lat. 36^' 
42', and long 4° 58' W. ol W. C. 
It is situated on the great valley road, 
about 8 miles N. of the Tennessee 
boundary, — at the south east side of 
^ riiountain ridge, about 7 miles dis- 
tant from either of the two main 
.Forks of the Holston river. A part 
01 the town stands on a considerable 
eminence, beneath which there is a 
Cavern containing a lake. 

Abingdon contains besides the or- 
dinary county buildings, between 150 
and 200 dwelling houses, — many of 
them handsome brick buildings, — 2 
Presbyterian and 2 Methodist houses 
of public worship, all of them neat 
brick edifices. A portion of the in 
habitants are followers of Baron 
Svvedenborg, — in other words, belong 
to the Ntw Jerusalem Church, — but 
they possess no house of worship, 
and their preacher occasionally oc- 
cupies one or the other of the Metho- 
dist houses. 

There is an Academy for females 
and one for males, (both brick edi- 
fices,) 2 hotels kept in good style, 3 
taverns principally used for the ac- 
commodation of wagoners, ! manu- 
facturing flour mill, 9 mercantile 
houses, some of which are wholesule 
establishments, and sell goods to the 



amount of one hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars annually, 3 groce- 
ries, 1 woolen and 2 cotton manufac- 
tures, and 1 well established nursery. 

There are 4 tanyards with saddle 
and harness manufacturies attached 
to them, 10 blacksmith shops, 1 hat 
manufactory and store, 6 wheel- 
wrights and wagon makers, 2 cabinet 
warehouses, 3 bricklayers, 2 stone 
masons, 3 house carpenters, 3 watch 
makers and jewellers, 2 boot and 
shoe factories, 3 house and sign 
painters, 2 coppersmiths and tin plate 
workers, and 3 tailors. 

Abingdon is rapidly increasing in 
population and trade. Old houses 
are giving place to handsome briok 
buildings, which the opulent and en- 
terprising citizens are daily erecting. 
The main street has lately been Mc- 
Adamized at considerable expense, 
but greatly to the improvement of its 
utility, beauty, and comfort. 

As a specimen of the flniirishing 
condition of this town, we must men- 
tion that a quarter acre lot, situated 
near the court house, recently sold 
for upwards of $4,000. There is a 
distributing post office here. Popu- 
lation 1000 persons; of whom 13 
are resident attorneys, and 3 regular 
physicians. 

County Courts are held on the Atk 
Mondoy in every luontii ; — Quarter- 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WOOD. 



465 



ly in March, Jt/jie, August and Nu- 
vciiiber. 

Judge Estill holds his Circuit 
Superior Court of Law and Chance- 
ry on the 'Zd Monday after the ith 
of April and September. 

It may excite some surprise when 
told that in this large and well popu- 
lated county, there were in 1831 but 



two post offices — the one at Abing- 
don, and the other at Seven Mile 
Ford; but since the severance of 
Smyth, the one at Seven Mile Ford 
is now in that county — in conse- 
quence of which we have no knowl- 
edge of any other post office in this 
county except the one at Abingdon 
the county seat. 



WOOD. 

Wood was created by Act of Assembly in the year 1799, and formed 
from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. E. by Tyler and 
Harrison, — E. by Lewis, — S. by Kanawha and S. W. by Jackson, — W. by 
the Ohio river, separating it from Meigs and Athens counties, Ohio — and 
N. by the same river separating it from Washington county of the same 
state. Its mean length (before the severance of a portion to form Jackson 
county) was 40J- miles — mean- breadth 30^: and area 1,223 square miles. 
It extends in lat. from 38^' 52' to 39"^' 27' N. and in long, from 3° 56' to A"^ 
42' E. of W. C. Nearly the whole of this county is embraced in the val- 
ley of the Little Kanawha and its tribut.'iries Hughes' river, — and North 
Fork of Hughes' river. A sniall portion on the northwestern border is 
drained by creeks into the Ohio. The surface i.-i much broken, but the soil 
is for the most part good. Population in 1820, 5,860, — in 1830, 6,429. It be- 
longs to the nineteenth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax paid in 
1833, $1,150 24— in 1834 on lots, $1 12 12— land, $885 74— 1040 slaves. 
$260 00— 4326 horses, $259 56— 26 studs, $223 00— 1 1 coaches, $28 50 
—31 carryalls, $32 00—1 gig, 50 cts. Total, $1901 42. Expended in 
educating poor children in 1832, $292 34— in 1833, $533 78. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 



Belleville, P. O. dit^tant 314 
ms. both from Richmond and Wash- 
ington. 

Bull Creek, P. O. 299 ms. W. 
of W. and 334 from R., situated 13 
ms. above Parkersburg in a thickly 
settled neighborhood. Bull creek is 
a small stream which rises in Wood 
county, and empties into the Ohio, 7 
miles above Marietta in the State of 
Ohio. There are located on this 
creek c-everal mills, mercantile stores, 
and 1 Baptist house of worship. 
The land is fertile, producing the or- 
dinary staples, — and lo well adapted 
to grass. 

jACKijONvxLLt, P. O. distant 281 
59 



ms. both from W. and R., situated en 
the Little Kanawha. It contains 12 
dwelling* houses, 1 Methodist and 1 
Baptist house of worship, J common 
school, 2 mercantile stores, 1 benevo- 
lent society, 1 tan yard, 1 grist and 
2 saw mills, and se\'eral mechanics. 
Population 64 persons: of whom 1 
is a physician. 

PARKERSBURG, P. V.and seat 
of justice, 299 ms. from R. and 299 
N. W. of W., situated on the point 
above the confluence of the Little 
Kanawha with the Ohio river, 12 
ms. below Marietta in Ohio. Be- 
sides the ordinary county buildings, 
•t contains 73 dwelling boasts, I 



466 WESTERN VIRGINIA— WYTHE. 

house of public worship (Methodist,) i Pennsborough, P. O. 303 ms. 

7 mercantile stores, 4 taverns, 3 com- j from R. and 268 from W. 
mon school, 1 steam saw mill, li Schultz's Range, P. O. 324 ms. 
printing office (issuing a weekly pa- from R. and 219 W. of W., situated 
per,) 2 tan jrards, 1 saddler, 3 cabinet! on the Clarksburg road, on the wa- 
makers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 2 ters of Cow creek, (6 miles from its 
blacksmith shops, 3 taibrs, 2 hatters i mouth,) which empties into the Ohio 
and 1 rope-walk. Population 600 1 river: — 15 miles from Marietta and 
persons; of whom ten are resident! 20 from Parkersburg. Schultz's 
attorneys, and 2 regular physicians. '■ Range is the name of a tract oi' land, 
Caunttj Courts are held on the 3^ of 25,000 acres laid ofi" in lots of 

500 acres each, all of which is in 
this county. The northwestern turn- 
pike runs through a part of this tract, 
on Walker's creek. The range con- 



Monday in every month; Quarterly 
in March, June, August and Novem- 
ber. 

Circuit Superior Couits of Lav. 
and Chancery are held on the 1st of 
April and Septe.riber, by Judge Sum- 
mers. 



tains 5 families, in all about 30 per- 
sons. 



Wythe v.-as created by act of Assembly at the session of 1789-90, and 
formed from a poi-llon ol iViontgomery. It is bounded N. by Giles, — E. 
by Montgom.eiy, — -S. Ky tlie Ii'on mountain, separating it from Grayson, — ' 
W. by Smyth, — and N, W. by Walker's mountain, separating from Taze- 
well. The greater part of Wythe is situated in a mountain valley included 
between the Iron raountains and Walker's mountain. Its mean length 
(before a portion was taken to form Smyth) was 45^ miles, — its mean 
width 22^ and its area 1998 square miles. It extends in lat. from 35^^ 44' 
to 37° 11' N., and in long, from 3° 34', to 4° 20' W. of W. C. 
..Wythe valley is an elevated table land. From the south western part 
flow the head waters of the Middle Fork of Holston, interlocking sources 
with some of the branches of New river, which flows across the eastern 
angle of this county. The characteristic features of the scenery of this ri- 
ver are its sublimity, — its banks are generally terrible clifls, and toppling 
precipices of solid limestone, often hundreds of feet in height, and inaccessi- 
ble to any foot save those of the bird and reptile. There are few plains on 
this river, and those iew are comparatively small, rarely if ever extending 
to the width of half a mile. 

The principal creeks, are Red, Cripple, Peak, Cove and Walkcr^s, tribu- 
taries to New river on. its northern side, and Big and Little Island and 
Poplar camp creeks on the southern. The first named creeks run S. of 
E., the latter N. E. 

The giandest and most prominent features of this county, it re its moiai- 
tains. Of these the largest is called Walker's mountain, "which together 
with other smaller ones, such ?iS Lit lie Walker's mountain. Brushy, Little 
Bmshy, Cove and others, lie between the Iron mountain on one si<le, and 
the Garden mountain, Clinch mountain and others (not however in Wythe 
but the adjoining. counties) which are parts of the Blue Ridge on the other. 
The general course of all theic moui)tain&- is IVom N. E. to tf. W. and they 



WESTERN VIRGINTA— WYTHE. 467 

are generally connected with each other by spurs. There are two other 
mountains in this county, which are detached chains, — the one called the 
Lick, and the other Draper's mountain, the former being some 12 or 15 
miles in length, the latter 6 or 8. 

The "Rich Valley ot Holston" lying on the North Fork of that river 
cominences with the head of the stream in the N. W. part of Wythe. That 
part of it lying in this county, has a pre-eminent claim to the title. There 
is in thj e.istirn part of this county a valley called Draper's valley, a de- 
lightful tract of some 5 or 6 miles in length, and ranging in breadth from 
half to oae and a half miles, hiving Drap-ir's moua'ain on iis N. side, and 
on the other, hills and highlands. The soil of Wythe cannot be said to be 
rich, but sufficiently fertile to produce all the necessaries of life. It pos- 
sesses the characteristic of all the soil of western Virginia, the faculty of 
renewing itself in grass, and is peculiarly benefitted by the cultivation of 
clover. Many if not all of the farm?rs ar3 learning to us3 gypsum, and 
find it peculiarly beneficial. Small grain of all kinds is raised with facili- 
ty, as also corn and potatoes, — the latter of the finest quality. Fruits of all 
the common kinds, such as apples, pears, cherries, plums and peaches are 
easily produced, but the lateness of the season, and shortness of the summer 
often cuts off the hopes of the inhabitants i7i,the bud. 

Wythe is rich in minerah. Iron is abundant almost every where. 
Load is found on the river in abundance, and is worked with profit. There 
are three establishments for making lead in the county, and which manu- 
facture about 290 tons per annum. There is one iron manufactory in ope- 
ration. Gypsum is found in Wythe, though not so abundant as ia the 
neighboring county of Smyth. There are large beds of coal in this county, 
untouched for want of a turnpike or some improved means of transportation. 
No county in the state suffers more than Wythe for want of internal im- 
provements. Her mineral wealth has hardly commenced a developement, 
and must probably lie dormant another century, until there shall be more 
public spirit, or less sectional feeling in the legislature. There have been 
some copper and silver specimens found in working the lead mines, but in 
no great quantities. The elevation of Wythe is about 1600 feet above the 
level of the ocean. 

Population in 1810,8,356—1820,9,692—1830. 12,163. It belongs to the 
16th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833,81,805 59 — in 
1834, on lots, $112 12— on land, $985 74—1,040 slaves, S260 00—4,326 
horses. $259 56—26 studs, $223 00—11 coaches, S28 50—31 carryans,. 
$32 00— 1 gig, 50 cents. Total $1,901 42. Expended in educating poor 
children in 1832, $373 53— in 1833, $408 60. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c. 

AusTiwiLLE, P. O. 265 ms. from j is fertile, producing well Indian corn, 
R. and 341 from W. , wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat and pota- 

Draper's Valley. P. O. 235 ms itoe.s. It' is also well adapted to pas- 
S. W. of R. and 310 S. W. of W.,|turage. Extensive iron works are 
situated 16 ms. E. of Evansham, and! carried on in this neighborhood. 
12 W. of Newbern. It contains sev-; EVANSHAM or WYTHE C. H- 
eral dwelling houses, 1 mercantile P. V. 253 ms. S. W. of R. and 329 S. 
store, I tanyard, &c. Population 15. JW. by V7. of W.^, in lat. 36° 56'_N-' 
The soil of the surrounding coimtry and long 4"^ 5' W of W. C Besides 



46d 



WESTERN VIRGINIA— WYTHE. 



the ordinary county buildings, this 
village contains from 90 to 100 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 house of public wor- 
ship, (Methodist,) 9 miscellaneous 
stores, 2 cabinet makers, I painter 
and glazier, 1 coppersmith, 1 tin plate 
worker, 4 boot and shoe makers, 2 
lanyards, 3 saddlers, 1 printing office, 
issuing a weekly paper, 4 taverns 
and 6 blacksmith shops. Population 
about 600 persons; of whom 7 are at- 
lornies and 5 regulai physicians. 

County Courts are held on the 
2(1 Monday in every month ; — Quar- 
terly in March, June, August and 
November. 

Circuit Superior Courts of Law 



crept up to reconnoitre, and discover- 
ed a large muscular Indian, sitting on 
a log with his back towards the 
whites, and facing the Indian encamp- 
ment, engaged in mending a mocca- 
sin. The Indian was partially con- 
cealed by a tree, under which he was 
sitting, from the view of the villagers. 
White at once, though fully aware of 
the danger of the attempt determined 
to carry that Indian to Clarke, and 
leaving his companions, not thinking 
it prudent for the three of them to 
proceed for fear of discovery, he crept 
softly up behind the Indian, who sat 
perfectly unconscious of danger, 
till he felt the grasp of AVhile on his 



and Chancery are held on tlse 7/Aj throat, and saw a pistol presented at 

of April and September by Judge 

Brown. 

Early Traditions. — There is much 
traditionary lore in this county among 
the old settlers. One romantic cir- 
cumstance, though not exactly inac- 
eordance with this work, may be worth 
recording as evincing the difficulties 
of various sorts, which occurred in 
first settling the frontier counties of 
the state. 

The incident alluded to, is that a 
man by the name of White, who lived 
on Walker's creek, was out with 
General Rogers Clarke. The 
General being in want of intelligence 
as to the future plans of the enemy, 
and being desirous of obtaining infor- 
mation, sent out White by himself to 
bring him in an Indian. White 
went out, and after two days unsuc- 
cessful hunt returned without one. 
The General still being determined 
to have an Indian, sent White out the 
second time, saying take companions 
if you will. White being remarkable 
for size, strength, agility, courage and 
prudence, selected two men, and start- 
ed with the determination of having 
an Indian if lie went to Canada for 
him. After a days travelling they 
struck on a faint trail, which, by the 
middle of the third day, took them to 
an Indian village. White cautiously 



his head. White in a few hurried 
words, in the language of the tribe, 
told him that if he made any noise or 
resistance he would shoot him in- 
stantly through the head, but if he 
went with him quietly he would pro- 
mise he should return to his tribe. 
The Indian submitted to his fate and 
White carried him in triumph to 
Clarke, who immediately on seeing 
him, said "this is no Indian," enquiry 
being made of the prisoner who and 
whence he was, he said that he was 
born of white parents, that when a 
small boy, the Indians attacked the 
settlement, killed all the family save 
his elder brother, who escaped during 
the onset, and took him prisoner. 
He described the place from which 
he was taken. During the recital, 
the countenance of his captor appeared 
very much agitated, he asked him 
several abrupt questions as to his early 
rememberances, and finally cried out, 
I AM YOUR Brother." All circum 
stances went to confirm the truth of 
this assertion, even to the similarity' 
of persons. The exile was restored 
to society, and for many years sat in 
the legislature of Kentucky, but still 
so far retained his old habits and pre- 
dilections as to spend months at a time 
in the woods. 



VIRGINIA DELEGATION. 

HOUSE OF DELEGATES. 



Number of Delegates to ivhich the several counties are e^ititled under the 

late Constitution. 

Northumberland, 

Nottoway, 

Ohio, 

Orange, 

Page, 

Patrick, 

Pendleton, 

Pittsylvania, 

Pocahontas, 

Powhatan, 

Preston, 

Prince Edward, 

Princess Anne, 

Prince George, 

Prince Williiam, 

Randolph, 

Rappahannock, 

Rockbridge, 

Rockingham, 

Russel, 

Scott, 

Shenandoah, 

Symth, 

Southampton, 

Spottsylvania, 

Stafford, 

Surry, 

Sussex. 

Tazewell, 

Tyler, 

Washington, 

Westmoreland, 

Wood, 

Wythe, 

Norfolk Borough, 

Petersburg, 

Richmond City, 



Accomack, 


2 


Greensville, 


1 


Albemarle, 


2 


Halifox, 


2 


Alleghany, 


i 


Hampshire, 


2 


Amelia, 


1 


Hanover, 




Amherst, 


} 


Hardy, 




Augusta, 


2 


Harrison, 


2 


Bath, 


1 


Henrico, 




Bedford, 


2 


Henry, 




Berkley, 


2 


Isle of Wight, 




Bottetourt, 


2 


James City, ' 


) 


Brooke, 


\ 


Williamsburg, and 


> 1 


Brunswick, 


2 


York, ] 


) 


Buckingham, 


2 


Jefferson, 




Cabell, 


1 


Kanawha, 




Campbell, 


2 


King & Glueen, 




Caroline, 


1 


King George, 




Charles City.and 'i 


1 


King William, 




New Kent, \ 


Lancaster and > 




Charlotte, 


1 


Richmond \ 


Chesterfield, 


1 


Lee, 




Culpeper, 


1 


Lewis, 




Cumberland, 


1 


Logan, 




Pinwiddie, 


1 


Loudoun, 




Elizabeth City and ) 


1 


Louisa, 




Warwick, \ 


Lunenburg, 




Esse.ic, 


\ 


Madison, 




Fairfa.Y, 


1 


Mathews and ) 
Middlesex, \ 




Fauquier, 


2 




Fayette and ) 


1 


Mason and > 




Nicholas, \ 


Jackson, \ 


Fluvanna, 


1 


Mecklenburg, 


2 


Floyd, 


1 


Monongalia 


2 


Franklin, 


2 


Monroe, 




Frederick, 


3 


Montgomery, 




Giles, 


1 


Morgan, 




Gloucester, 


1 


Nansemond, 




Goochland, 


1 


Nelson, 




Grayson, 


1 


Norfolk County, 


2 


Greenbrier, 


1 


Northampton, 


1 



Total 



134 



SENATE. 



The Constitution lays off the Senatorial District as follows: — 
Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, and (Marshall,) 1, — Monongalia, Preston and Ran- 
dolph, 1, — Harrison, Lewis and Wood, 1, — Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Lo- 
gan, Nicholas, (Fayette, Jackson,) 1, — Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles, Mont- 
gomery, and (Floyd,) 1, — Tazewell, Wythe, Grayson, and (Smyth,) 1, — 
Washington, Scott, Lee, 1, — Berkley, Morgan, and Hampshire, 1, — Fred- 
erick, Jefferson, 1, — Shenandoah, Hardy, and (Page,) 1. — Rockingham, 
and Pendleton, 1, — Augusta, Rockbridge, 1, — Alleghany, Bath, Pochahon- 
tas, and Botetourt, I, — Loudoun, and Fairfax, 1, — Fauquier, and Prince Wil- 
liam, 1, — Stafford, King George, Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, and 
Northumberland, 1, — Culpeper, Madison, Grange, and (Rappahannock,) 
1, — Albemarle, Nelson, and Amherst, 1, — Fluvanna, Goochland, Louisa, 
and Hanover, 1, — Spottsylvania, Caroline, and Essex, 1, — King &. Queen, 
King William, Gloucester, Mathews, and Middlesex, 1, — Accomack, 
Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, Warwick, and City of Williamsburg, 
1, — Charles City, James City, New Kent, Henrico, and City ot Richmond, 
1, — Bedford, and Franklin, 1, — Buckingham, Campbell, and Cumberland, 
1, — Patrick, Henry, and Pittsylvania, 1, — Halifax, and Mecklenburg, 1, — 
Charlotte, Lunenburg, Nottoway and Prince Edward, 1, — Amelia, Pow- 
hatan, Chesterfield, and Town of Petersburg, I, — Brunswick, Dinwiddie, 
and Greensville, 1, — Isle of Wight, Prince George, Southampton, Surry, 
and Sussex, 1, — Norfolk, Nansemond, Princess Anne, and Borough of 
Norfolk, I. 

()Those counties in brackets have been created since the Constitution, from portions 
of the districts to which thej' have been assigned. 

The arrangement of the counties into C^jngressional Districts since the last census, 
js given after the District of Columbia. 



^71 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA* 



ESTABLISHMENT, SITUATION, BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. 

The sixteenth clause of the eighth section of the first Article of the 
Constitution of the United States gives to Congress the power 
"To exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever, over such dis- 
trict (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular states^ 
and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of government of the 
United States" — In pursuance of this poAver General Washington, by 
authority from Congress, after great research and observation selected the 
present District of Columbia, as the site for the mciropulis of this Great 
Empire of Confederated Republics. It was ceded in 1790 by the states of 
Virginia and Maryland to the United States, and became the seat of govern- 
ment in 1800. 

It lies upon both banks of the Potomac, in form an exact square of 10 
miles, containing of course 100 square miles, or 64,000 acres. Two of its 
sides run in a N. E. and S. W. direction, — at right angles to the other two 
fiirining in a S. E. and N. W. direction. It extends in lal. from 38° 46' 
30" to 38° 58' N. nearly; and the long, of the capitol (which we assume 
as zero with respect to all other places in this country) has been found by 
accurate astronomical calculations to be with reference to Greenwich, the 
English point of reference, 76° 55' 30" west. 

l*he District on the Virginia side is bounded by the county of Fairfax, 
and on the Maryland, — by Prince George county on the S. E. and Mont- 
gomery county on the N. W. 

The location of the District having been determined on, the first stone to 
mark its boundary was set in Jones's Point, the uppermost cape of Hunting 
creek, on the 15th of April, 1791, in presence of a large concourse ©•/ 
spectators. Of the 100 miles square included in the District, 36 lying south 
of the Potomac, and included in the county of Alexandria, were ceded by 
Virginia. A strip 10 miles long, by about 8 broad lying N. of the Potomac 
and comprehended in Washington count}'- was ceded by Maryland. 

The surface of the District is gently undulating, aflbrding fine sites for 
the cities within its limits. In a commercial view its situation is highly fa- 
vorable. Ships of any drautrht can be navigated to Alexandria, and those 
of very considerable size to the Navy Yard on the East brancli of the Po- 
tomac, at Washington. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and the fine 
roads which the government has made in every direction, also contribute 
much to its commercial advantages. 

SOIL. 

There is as much variety of soil as of surface in the District. The hills 
arc for the most part covered with forests, and the vales are cultivated or 



472 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

covered with wild shrubbery, presenting a landscape, almost every where, 
of great beauty. Springs of the finest quality abound. 

Rock creek, Tiber creek, and the Easlei-n Branch of the Potomac on the 
north, — and Oxen Runon the south, — and Four Miles Run on the west, — 
irrigate a great portion of the District. 

The Potomac presents a vast sheet flowing from N. W. to S. E. View- 
ed from Fort Washington, — with the mouth of the Eastern Branch on the 
left, — the main stream on the right, — and the opening of Four Miles Run 
in front, it presents the appearance of a great inland sea, rather than of a 
river. 

The composition of the soil on the banks of the Potomac and the Eastern 
Branch, is a deep alluvial — rich and various — accumulated from the depo- 
sitcs of successive ages, — and the gradual retreat of the waters. Frag- 
ments of primitive rocks, pyrites, gravel, sand, shells and decayed ve- 
getable substances are mingled together. 

The soil generally near the river is fertile and productive, elsewhere ra- 
ther thin, and sometimes sandy; but susceptible of great improvement. 
The most forbidding and barren looking with ordinary attention, and by 
the use of manure and gypsum, may be fertilized to an extraordinary de- 
gree. 

With such a soil, nothing is wanting but enterprise and perseverance to 
change the face of nature from a barren waste, to a blooming garden, and 
one would think that a market of sufficient extent to stimulate to the requi- 
site exertion was presented almost at the very doors of the farmer and hor- 
ticulturist; — if indeed the facilities for water transportation afforded by the 
Potomac and its branches do not bring the more distant, but more fertile 
portions of Virginia and Maryland into injurious competition. 

The Rock creek lands are of a light, loamy nature, with a substratum of 
clay. 

The staple produce of the country is the same with that grown in the 
adjoining portions of Virginia and Maryland, viz: tobacco, wheat, Indian 
corn, fruit, and the esculent roots. 

There is near the Dktrict, on Acquia creek, an extensive quarry of free- 
stone, and on the Seneca one of beautiful variegated marble, or pudding 
stone from which the columns in the Hall of the House of Representatives 
Were made. 

The composition of the city low grounds, lying below the bights, from the 
Capitol to Halorama and to the margin of the Potomac, are alluvial, and 
appear to have been reclaimed but recently. 

Within the memory of many now living, seines liave been hauled, and 
fish taken, where handsome stores now stand, in the part of Pennsylvania 
Avenue in which most business is now carried on, namely — between 9th 
and 10th streets. 

The extent of the marshes below Columbia College bears evidence that 
apart of the stream of Rock creek once found its way across towards the 
Eastern Branch, along the foot of the bights which flank the northern 
part of Washington. 

By judicious draining these swan)ps have been recently limited to a com- 
paratively small space, but their existence ha^ still an injurious cficct upon 
the health of the inhabitants residing in their vicinity. This fact is clearl};' 
established by the improvement of the health of all situated in the vicinity 
of the low grounds from the centre market to Capitol Hill. 



OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 473 

Pieces of sound timber are often discovered from ten to fifty feet below 
the surface. In digging wells, several pieces of black looking limbs of 
trees, and entire roots have been found at a considerable depth. — An exten- 
sive stratum of carbonated limbs of trees has been discovered near Bla- 
densburg, and north of the City, and traced for a considerable distance. 

iVIany of the blocks of stone that compose the walls of the Capitol con- 
tain specimens of the leaves of trees, and ligneous fragments, — and when 
exposed to the air they have sometimes shrunk. 

On turning up the surface of the soil some curiosities of Indian origin 
have been found. Round stone vessels in the shape of common pots, or 
bowls, and stone axes are sometimes picked up. A good specimen of an 
Indian axe in excellent preservation was found on the farm of Mr. Dunlop 
in Montgomery county, Md. — and is yet in his possession. Points of darts, 
and arrow heads of stone, used in Indian warfare are met with in many 
parts of the District. In some ancient records an Indian fort is mentioned, 
as standing on the banks of the Eastern Branch, not far from the spot on 
which the powder magazine is now located, — but there are now no traces 
of it to be found. 

The temperature of the water of the city springs, when brought to the 
surface of the eaith at midsummer may be set down at 58° of fahrenheit, — 
the Bladensburg chalybeate at 64°, — and the stream of the Potomac at 85°. 
— and the Avaler in ilie hydrants in Pennsylvania Avenue generally, where 
the pipes are sunk to a proper depth, at 66°, though it may issue from the 
fountain at 58°, 

GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. 

A few years ago a correspondent of a New York print, (generally under- 
stood to be an intelligent member of Congress) took a glance at some of the 
prominent geological features of this District; and although there be some 
imagination in the sketch, yet, there is enough of science to justify its inser- 
tion. 

It is obvious, says he to the most careless observer, that over the site of 
the Capitol of the United States, and the country far around, the waves of 
the ocean once rolled, and that these fields, now quietly tilled by the planter, 
were thrown from beneath it by some tremendous convulsion. Where the 
great concerns o[ this nation are now canvassed, and our politicians are 
imagining that they may provide for the perpetuity of our republic, memo- 
ry, as if mocking their schemes, points to the period when the monsters of 
the deep flowed over the spot; and no human being conceived that the wa- 
ters would not continue to hide it forever. 

The proofs of the amazing changes are numerous and conclusive. It is 
announced by the strata of earth; by the rounded stones, like those which 
grind and polish each other on the sea shore, and by the numerous secon- 
dary formations, which without analysis, instruct us satisfactorily on the 
slightest inspection. In many of the stones found even en the hights around 
us, are distinct impressions of marine shells. The hrue of which these 
shells were con.stiluted, has been decomposed, and has vanished, or been 
incorporated with the general mass, which, when broken, exhibits the con- 
cave and convex surfaces of the marine sui^stance, and the vacant space pro- 
duced by the slow waste of ages not now to be numbered. These stones 
are of various conipoGitjon. vom<= being exceedini'lv hard, and others soft, 
60 " 



ir4 GENERAL DES€RIPTiON 

and others having the character of the coarse grey sandstone, or tvh^tias 
I think erroneously be^n called granular-quartz." 

The material of the soil is clay, discolored by the oxide of iron. It be* 
comes fixed by fire, and no place can boast of greater facilities for brick 
making. ^ . 

Rock creek, and its immediate vicinity, is the lihie between the pflmitivc 
formation and the tertiary ; from Rock creek up the Potomac, the bordera 
of the stream is pregnant with primitive rocks in situ and in boulders, with 
the exception of a few small pieces of alluvial soil here and there, in the 
valley of the river. This is the case for twenty miles or more, when the 
country changes to old red sandstone, which continues 20 or 25 miles fur- 
ther up the rirer, Avith occasional ridges of brecca or pudding stone: mar- 
ble shows Itself in various places along the valley below and above Mano- 
cacy. About a mile, however, east of the entrance of Rock creek into the 
Potomac, on the southern point of the city, near the C41a3shouse, the final 
termination of the primitive rocks that line the bed and banks of the Poto- 
mac above, clearly takes place. In digging wells beyond this point, rocks 
or stones seldom obtrude: the alluvial soil every where prevails. — Rock 
creek separates the primitive from the alluvial soil. In the former gneiss 
abounds, Avhich is succeeded by the amphibolic rock or grunstein. The 
gneiss contains small crystalised tubes of magnetic iron, veins of feldspatb 
and quartz of opaque white color. The rock of the Great Falls of the 
Potomac consists chiefly of micaceous schist, — the mica schistoide of Hauy, 
or glimmer schiefer of tlie Germans, and contains grains of iron which 
attract the magnetic needle. The stone, with which the basins of the Po- 
tomac canal are lined, is a species of sandstone (gris) similar to that known 
by the name of gris des mouilliores [sandstone of coal-beds.] The rock 
employed to form the foundation or base of the houses of Washington, is a 
species of gneiss, composed of feldspath, quartz and mica, of a leafy tex- 
ture, owing to the abundance and disposition of the mica. It contains primi- 
tive sulphurous iron — and also particles of th.e same metal, which are at- 
tracted by the needle. At Fort Washington there is a ferruginous clay, 
known by the name of bol, which is employed to dye cloth and thread, of a 
reddish color. This substance, when heated, attracts the magnetic needle. 
The moulds of petrified shells of the genus area weighing several pounds, 
have been dug up at this place. 

Robinson, in his catalogue of American mineralogy, furnishes the follow- 
ing for the District of Columbia: 

Flint, — on the shores of the Eastern branch of the Potomac near t^e 
Navy Yard, in small nodules, — Hornstone, containing organic remains, 
agatized wood, woodstone, — three miles north from Washington, sometimes 
invested with minute crystals of quartz, — fine specimens and abundant. 
Schorl-^In Georgetown — in gneiss — lignite and pyritical fossil wood are 
found abundantly in digging wells. Iron ore — in the vicinity of the wood- 
stone locality, in detached masses on the surface — organic remains in sand- 
stone-— abundant. 

CLIMATE. 

The prejudices that some time back existed averse to the general heahh 
of the District, have been dissipated by the monthly publication of iToeteo- 
rological observations, and the interments in the public grave yards, authen- 



OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 475 

ticated by the board of health. The climate of course resembles that of the 
adjoining parts of Maryland and Virginia. The severity of the winters, 
or cold seasons, is no doubt of late years much mitigated. In 1780, Mr. 
Jefferson says, the Chesapeake bay was solid ice from its head to the mouth 
of the Potomac. At Annapolis, where it is 5| miles between the nearest 
points of land, the ice was from 5 to 7 inches thick quite across, so that 
loaded carriages went over it. In January, 1772, the snow in the District 
of Washington was nearly three feet deep, and in some places it drifted to 
ten or twelve feet. Of late years not more than as many inches have fallen. 
Formerly the river, near Dumfries, was frequently frozen over in Novem- 
ber, — heavy snow^s fell in the same month, and loaded the forest trees, till their 
branches broke under the pressure. The climate, as cultivation progresses, is 
rapidly improving. The District is now seldom visited with the long or 
severe winters, of which our early settlers so feelingly complained. France, 
as well as Auierica, in its uncultivated stale, had hard winters. — In the time 
of Julius Caesar, the Rhine was frozen over, and neither the olive nor the 
vine was then cultivated. A Gallic winter, once proverbially severe, is now, 
under g state of high cultivation, mild and pleasant. In the days of Horace, 
mountains near Rome were covered with snow. 

The climate of Britain, however, is a remarkable exception; it appears, 
in our days, to continue as it was, in the times of Tacitus, moist, cloudy, 
and rainy. — So we are encouraged, on the authority of the ancients to look 
forward to a progressive improvement and material mitigations on the rigors 
of winter, when our soil shall be more generally opened by cultivation; we 
may not then be tortured with those extremes of heat and cold, under which 
we now labor, varying from 18° below zero, to 98^ above, of fahrenheit. 

In summer, the District is visited w^ith frequent thundergusts, though, on 
the whole they are beneficial, as they tend to purify the atmosphere, and 
mitigate the sultriness of the season, which is often as oppressive as within 
the tropics. The most remarkable of these tempests or tornadoes occurred 
in June, 1811, and August, 1814: during the former, large hailstones 
weighing three or four ounces, fell, and destroyed every pane of glass on 
the north side of the houses in Alexandria: and, in the latter instance, many 
houses were blown down and trees laid prostrate, much to the terror of the 
British, who at that time held for 24 hours the occupation of the city. 

We have no doubt that the degree of caloric has considerably increased, 
since the forest trees were cut down on our commons, and wide gravelled 
avenues formed: the difference of temperature in favor of the forest shade 
is, by some philosophers, reckoned at one fifth less than on an open space. 
Bordering as the District does on so many water courses, it may be naturally 
presumed, that its inhabitants, in the summer months, are not free from the 
annoyance of insects. The musquetoe i,s the most formidable of this de- 
scription ; but houses on an elevated site, or wuh a thorough draught of air, 
are seldom troubled with them. On the low grounds, and on the borders 
of swamps, ephemeral insects, chiefly of aquatic origin, in swarms of va- 
rious descriptions, make their appearance; musquetoe curtains, however, so 
common in Carolina, are here very seldom required for the comforts of the 
bed chamber. 

It may naturally be expected that the sudden changes of the atmosphere, 
— though in sound constitutions, they may harden the body, — yet with the 
more delicate, produce in winter and spring, colds, coughs, rheumatic affec- 
tions, — and in the fall, bilious fevers, agues, &c : neverthfdess thai part of 



\ 



473 GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c. 

the District in which Washington is located, is at least as hcalthj^, if not 
more so. than any other portions of the Union, containing an equal number 
of inhabitants. 

ABORIGINES. 

Of the aborigines of the District we have a very imperfect account. In 
1608 the first attempt to explore the Chesapeake and its tributary streams 
was made by Smith. Forty principal and subordinate tribes, occupied the 
shores cf Virginia and Maryland at the time, of whom the Powhatans, 
the Manahoacs and Monacans were the chief. The Powhatans roamed 
from the shores of the Chesapeake to the Patuxent in Maryland: the 
Manahoacs and the Monacans on the territory contiguous to York and 
Potomac rivers. The Shawanees probably inhabited that part ol Mary- 
land which lies between the Patuxent and the Patapsco rivers, and from 
the Chesapeake to the Alleghanies. The Susquehanocks, it is believed, 
lived on the banks of the Susquehannah in Harford county, Maryland, 
towards the westward, penetrating considerably into Pennsylvania. The 
Fockwocks and Nanticokes possessed Kent, Queen Anns and Talbot 
counties, Maryland, from the Sassafras river to the Choptank ; and the lat- 
ter tribe, Dorchester and Somerset counties. 

The Manahoacs and Monacans w-ere in alliance with each other, and 
waged a confederate and perpetual w^ar against the Powhatans. It is pro- 
bable, and it is generally admitted, that they were occupiers of the terri- 
tory which forms the present District of Columbia. The Manahoacs, it is 
asserted by CoJden, afterward assumed the name of Tuscaroras, deserted 
their country in Virginia about 1712, and repairing to the west, joined 
the Iroquois. In 1669, when a census was taken, it was found that in 
sixty-two years, one-third of their number were wanting. The valley at 
the foot of the Capitol Hill, washed by the Tiber creek, the Potomac "and 
the Eastern Branch, h is stated on the authority of some of the earlj- 
settlers, was periodically visited bj^the Indians; who named it their fishing 
ground, in contradistinction to their hunting ground; and that they assem- 
bled there in great numbers in the spring mouihs to procure iish. Green- 
lief's Point was the principal camp and the residence of the chiefs, \vhere 
councils were held among the various tribes thus gathered together. The 
comcidence of the location of the National Legislature, so near the site of 
the council house of an Indian nation, cannot fail to excite interesting re- 
flections in ihe mind of the intelligent reader. It is highly probable that 
Gerjeral Washington- was acquainted Avith this tradition. 

POPULATION, 



in 1800 


14,093 




Slave."?, 


3,244 


" 1810 


24,023 


Increase in ten years, 9,930 


" 


5,395 


*' 1820 


S3, 039 


9,060 


" 


6,377 


" 1830 


39,868 


6,819 


" 


6,054 



GOVERNMENT. 

The Congress of the United States is the Legislature of the 
District of Columbia, and the PresideJit of the United States its highest 



ALEXANDRIA. 



477 



executive officer. The ordinary municipal control is exercised by a Mayor 
and Corporation. 



Judiciary — Circuit Court. 



William Cranch, of Washington, 

BUCKNOR ThRUSTON, " " 



James S. Morsel, 
Francis S. Key, 
Alex. Hunter, 
William Brent, 
Edmund J. Lee, 



Georg-eioum, 
Washington, 



Alexandria,, 



Chief Judge, 
Assistant, 

Attorney, 
Marshall, 
Clerh, 
Clerk, 



Salary, $2,700 

2,500 

2,000 

Fees, &c. 



The Chief Judge of the Circuit Court holds also a District Court. 



Orpha;i^s Court. 



Salary, Si, 000 
Fees, (fee. 



Fees, &c. 



Samuel Chase, of Washingtan, Chief Judge, 

Henry Neal, " " Register, 

Christopher N-eal, " Alexandria, Judge, 
Alexander Moore, " " Register, 

The Circuit Court for the District is held at Washington, on the frst 
Monday in May and December, and at Alexandria on the seco7id Mon- 
day in April and the first Monday in Novemhcr. The District Court is 
held on the first Monday in June and Noc ember. 

AliEXANDRIA. 



Alexandria originally called, 
Belhaven, a Post Tow7i and Sea, 
Port, situated on the western bank of; 
tlie river Potomac, near the head of 
tide water, on the south corner of the 
District, 6 miles south of the City of: 
Washington, and 180 ms. from thej 
ocean. The meridian of Washing- 1 
ton passing through the Capitol,' 
leaves the central part of Alexandria, 
near 3' to the E. — Lat. of Alexan- 
dria 38° 48' N. 

This town lies principally in 
the District of Columbia, but a small 
part of it is in the state of Virginia. 
It was incorporated in 1779 by the 
state ef Virginia, and that part of it 
which lies within the J3istrict was 
ceded to the General Government in 
1801. The laws of Virginia, enacted 
previous to that time, still remain in 
force in the town and county of Alex- 
andria, except those which have been 
repealed by Congress. The 'muni- 
cipal government consists of a Coun- 
cil of 16 representatives and a Mayor, 



Four members of the Council are an- 
nually elected in each of the 4 wardsj 
into which the City is divided, anci. 
the Mayor is elected every year by 
the Council. The political situation 
of Alexendria in commop with the 
other portions of the District of Co- 
lumbia is singular. The President 
of the United States is the Governor, 
and Congress, the Legislature of the 
District, but the people have no voice 
nor are their sentiments officially 
heard, in any of the political concerns 
of the country. The Circuit Court of 
the United States, for the District of 
Columbia, sits in Alexandria twice a 
year, and its expenses are defrayed 
by the General Government. From 
the decision of the Court, there are 
appeals to the Supreme Court of the 
United States. 

Alexandria is very handsomely 
situated. The streets are laid out on 
the plan of Philadelphia, crossing 
each other at right angles, and are 
generally well pavt>d. It i.s consider- 



478 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



ed remarkably healthy, and the view 
from the City is very fine. The town 
is situated in the bottom of a valley 
■which to the eye of an observer is 
terminated in every direction by lofty 
and A'erdant hills. To the north he 
sees the City of Washington, — the 
Capitol with its beautiful columns, 
Avhite walls and towering dome, form- 
ing a most conspicuous object; to the 
south, the broad translucent expanse 
of the Potomac opens upon him, with 
Fort Washington, lying like a white 
Hue on its distant margin, opposite to 
Mount Vernon. 



The river opposite to the town is a 
mile in breadtli, and varies from 34 
to 52 feet in depth, in the ship chan- 
nel, which here washes the shore, — 
of course the harbor is naturally very 
fine, and it has been much improved 
by the erection of large and commo- 
dious wharves. 

Commerce. — Alexandria carries 
on an extensive trade in flour, tobac- 
co, sumach, fish, lumber and other 
articles, with the Southern slates, 
West Indies and Europe. 



Barrels. Half Barrels. 
The inspection of flour in 1S20, was 178,874, and 5,789 
" 1830, " 166,386, " 6,385 

1831, " 206,294, " 6,001 
Besides an extensive trade with the eastern ports of the United Slates, the 
exports to foreign countries for the last 3 years, were in amount as follows: 

1829, - - - - - $687,259 

1830, ..... 628,142 

1831, - - - . . 864,484 

On the 31st of December 1831 the^clear revenue from the town of Alex- 
tonnage belonging to the town waslandria, during the period above men- 
8,230 tons, and it is still increasing, tinned, to upwards of four millions of 
There are 3 Banks in Alexandriadollars. 



with an aggregate capital of one mil 
lion, seven hundred thousand dollars 
and 3 incorporated insurance conipa- 



Religiou.s and Moral Associa- 
tions, Manufactories, &c. — 
There are in this town 9 houses of 



Dies. The amount of real estate is public worship, 2 Episcopalian, 2 
assessedal twomillionssevenhundred|Presbyterian, 1 Friends', 2 Metho- 
thousand dollars; and according to'dist, 1 Catholic and 1 Baptist. There 
authentic information from the treasa-|is also a philosophical society, and 
ry department of the United States, lan incorporated Library, containing 
the town paid into the treasury fromjabout 4,000 volumes, a Library insti- 
the 31st of December 1791 to the 31st!tuted by au association of apprentices 
December 1829 inclusive, on accountjand other minors, a savings fund in- 
of customs, three millions, seven Jiun-stitution, an orphan asylum, a poor 
dred and thirty seven thousand, one house and disjx'nsary, a bible, mis- 
hundred and sixty one dollars andjsionary and temperance society, a 
twenty seven cents, — on accountof thcicolonization society, a benevolent so- 
post office, one hundred and scventy|cict3' for improving the condition of 
three thousand, seventy tiiree dollarsjlhe people of color, a society for fur- 
and thirty four cents, — for direct taxinishing employment to the indus- 
in the years 1815-16, eleven thou-'lrious, indigent, and several for sup- 
sand, one hundred and fifty dollars|plying food, clothing and fuel to the 
and seventy cents. The amount of poor in winter. There are several 



internal revenue which cannot be ac- 
curately ascertained woiild swell th 



baking establishments, where ship 
bread and crackers are made equal to 



ALEXANDRIA. 



479 



any nianufactured iu tlie Uiiilod States 
or elsewhere, 2 ship yards, an exten- 
sive brewery, and several tanneries, a 
foundry upon a large scale, with a 
manufactory of steam eng'ines and va- 
rious machinei'y for cotton factories, 
&c. and several manufactories of se- 
gars, on an extensive scale. Alexan- 
dria contains a handsome market 
house, at which a market is held eve- 
ry morning. It is generally well 
supplied with meats, fish, fruits and 
vegetables in their season. In the 
latter part of the spring, , wild straw- 
berries abound in the adjacent ooun- 
trj-, and are brought in great quanti- 
ties to market. Over the market 
house is the Court-house, clerk's of- 
fice, council chamber, town hall and 
library: and in the upper story of the 
same building an extensive and well 
arranged Museum. Over the centre 
of this building is a steeple in which 
an excellent clock tells the hours on 
a bell, that weighs fifteen hundred 
pounds. 

There is a boarding school for 
young men, in which the languages,! 
mathematics, philosophy, and every 
useful branch of education is taught. ! 
A part of the course consists of a se-j 



ries of lectures on astronomy, chemis- 
try, &c. in which the principles of the 
sciences treated of are illustrated by 
experitnents with suitable apparatus. 
There are also boarding schools for 
young ladies, conducted by ladies, in 
which are taught all the branches of 
polite and fashionable education, and 
a boarding school for young ladies 
under the charge of Four Sisters of 
Charity from Emmittsburg, in the 
state of Maryland. This institution, 
though but lately established, and not 
yet completed, is in a flourishing con- 
dition. When finished it Avill have 
connected with it an orphan asylunii 
There are also in Alexandria, free 
schools for children of both sexes, and 
about 30 other schools, exclusive of 
Sunday schools. In the vicinity of 
Alexandria is established a Protestant 
Episcopal Theological Seminary on 
an elevated situation, commanding aii 
extensive and delightful view of the 
District of Columbia, the river Poto^ 
mac and the surrounding country. 
This institution at present occupies 
two large four story buildings, hav- 
ing space enough between them for 
the erection of a centre structure. 



Population oj Alexandria at different periods. 



Population 1810- 
Free white males. 
Do. Females, 



2,525 
2,378 



Total white population 1810, 4,903 



All persons except Indian*? not taxed. 
Slaves, . - . . . 



836 
1,488 



In 1820— 
Free white males, 

Do. Females, 

Foreigners not naturalized. 



Totfil population in 1820, 7,227 



2,667 

2,948 

153 



Total white population 1S20, 5,768 



480 


DISTRICT OF 


COLUMBIA, 












Amount forward. 


Free colored males, 


. 


- 


. 


461 


Do. Females, 


. 


. 


707 


Slaves, male, 


- 


. 


. 


606 


Do. Female, 




Total population in 1820, 


820 




8,371 


.,in J830— 


Males. 


Females. 


Total. 




Whites, 


2,712 


2,969 


5,681 




Colored, free, 


565 


816 


1,381 




, Slaves, 


462 


739 


1,2013,- 


-8,263 



Internal Improvements. — A 

canal is now in progress, which will 
probably bring a great accession of 
business to this town. This canal is 
designed to continue the Chesapeake 
and Ohio Canal to Alexandria, and 
will be connected with that great 
Avork by a magnificent aqueduct 
thrown across the river Potomac, im- 
mediately above Georgetown. The 
perpendicular descent from the sur- 
face of the river, above the Little 
Falls to tide water, is about 36 feet, 
and as the canal will be brought on a 
level from the head of the Falls to 
Alexandria; it is obvious that at the 
latter place, it will afford water power 
for manufactories to a very great ex- 
tent. Towards the construction of 
the Alexandria canal, the government 
of the United States have appropriat- 
ed $100,000. This city is connected 
with the interior of the state of Vir- 
ginia by several turnpike roads, — 
down which the principal part of the 
flour is brought that comes to market; 
and there are 8 steamboats that regu- 
larly ply between this and other ports, 
several of which arrive and depart 
daily. 

Fisheries. — As Alexandria is the 
.shipping port of the District of Co- 
lumbia, and one of the principal marts 
for the immense fisheries of the Poto- 
mac, it may be well to mention, that 
in the spring of the year quantities ol 
shad and herrings arc taken, which 



may appear almost incredible. The 
number of shad frequently obtained at 
a haul is 4,000 and upwards, and of 
herrings from 1 to 300,000. In the 
spring of 1832, there were taken in 
one seine at one draught, a few more 
than 950,000 accurately counted. — 
The prosecution of the numerous fish- 
eries giv^es employment to a large 
number of laborers, and affords an op- 
portunity to the poor to lay in at very 
reduced prices, food enough to last 
their flimilies during the whole year. 
The shad and herrings of the Poto- 
mac are transported by land, to all 
parts of the country, to which there is 
a convenient access from the river; 
and tbuy are also shipped to various 
ports in the United States and West 
Indies. The lowest prices ;it which 
these fish sell v.'hen just taken, are 
25-cenls per thousand for herrings, 
and $1 50 per hundred for shad, but 
they generally bring higher prices, 
often % 1 50 per thousand for the form- 
er, and from 63 to 4 per hundred for 
the latter, — in the height of the sea- 
son a single shad weighing from 6 to 
8 pounds, is sold in the market of the 
District for 6 cents. Herrings, how- 
ever, are sometimes taken so plenti- 
fully, that they are given away, or 
hauled on the land as manure for 
want of purchasers. Sonic idea may 
he formed of the importance of the.?e 
lishcrics from (he following state- 
are nl: — 



Number of fisheries on the Potomac, about 
" of laborers required at the Lauding, 



150 

6,500 



ALEXANDRIA. 



481 



Number of vessels employed, . . . . 

" of men to navigate these vessels, 

'• of shad taken in good season, which lasts only 
about 6 weeks, 

** of herrings under similar circumstances, 
Quantity of salt required to cure the fish, — Bushels, 
Number of barrels to contain the fish. 



450 
1,350 

22,500,000 

760,000,000 
995,000 
995.000 



The herring is not eaten at the best 
tables when fresh, but cured, they are 
admired by all, keep remarkably well, 
and are most highly flavored when 
they have been for 2 years in salt. 
The Potomac river can boast of the 
largest shad fisheries in the United 
States. The advantages of the her- 
ring fisheries, she divides with some 
other rivers of the south, but it is 
equalled by none, unless it be the 
Susquehanna. 

Should the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal be continued to the Ohio river, 
it is obvious that the fisheries of the 
Potomac will be of great advantage 
to the country west of the Alleghany 
mountains, in supplying in great 
abundance a delicious and valuable 
article of food of which its waters 
are entirely destitute. Taken into 
view the vast number of fish annu- 
ally caught, and the probable in- 
crease in the demand, one might be 
led to fear that the supply will at 
length be exhausted, — however ample 
at the present time, but when we re- 
flect that the spawn from an exceed- 
ing small number will generate into 
myriads and myriads of fish, sucli a 
fear is at once done away ; the quan- 
tity is now very great and increas- 
ing, — it is admitted that next to the 
small and delicate Nova Scotia her- 
ring, that of the Potomac is by far more 
nutricious than any found elsewhere 
in the waters of North America. 
During the summer, the fail, and 
winter months, the variety of good 
fish is small, consisting principally 
of the large white porch and rock 
fish of moderate size, taken vvith the 
line, and of carp and winter shad ; 
but at certain .seasons of the year tlie 
61 



supply is abundant indeed. In the 
latter part of the winter and early in 
spring, great numbers of large rock 
fish, weighing from 25 to 120 lbs. 
are taken in seines, just above the 
salts and brought to the markets in 
the District of Columbia. About 8 
years since there were taken at one 
of the fisheries on the Virginia side 
of the river, about 3 miles below 
Washington,* at one draught of the 
seine, four hundred and fifty rock fish 
averaging sixty pounds each, as is 
well attested, and was recorded in the 
newspapers of the day. Sturgeon 
also abounds in the Potomac, and are 
of enormous size weighing from 75 
to 150 pounds, in some places they 
are considered a great delicacy, as in 
the James, the Potomac, and the Hud- 
son rivers, — while on the Delaware 
they are considered worthless and 
scarcely eaten. The sturgeon comc-i 
up the Potomac twice a year, which 
is in the months of May and August, 
— presses up to the very foot of the 
first falls, and is taken in the great- 
est quantity within the District, in 
times of freshets in the strong water 
j betweefi Georgetown and those falk. 
! They are taken either in floating nets, 
j with large meshes, or by an inge- 
I niou.sly contrived hook, not baited, 
[but by a curious device, prepared to 
pierce him on the body so certainly 
and so deeply, as to hold him and 
I bring him in, notwithstanding his 
I great size and strength; this latter 
[mode of taking the sturgeon is be- 
lieved to be peculiar to the Potomac, f 



*The noted fishery called the Sycamore 
LainDing, belonging to Gen Mason. 

+" The hook is made of stout, well-tem- 
pered iron, keenly pcintfd ^nd barbed 



482 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



Water Fowl 
the water fowl of the Potomac, and 
the scarcity of information upon the 
subject, render an article upon them 



The celebrity of/ necessary. In the following account 
we have availed ourselves largely 
of the information contained under 
the "Water Fowl," in a useful little 



with steel, is about thirty inches in length, 
bent at the lower end, and much in ibe 
way with ordinary hsh-hooks, in propor- 
tionately larger dimensions, and so as to 
place the barb on the inside of the curva- 
ture; but the stem, or that part to which 
the line is attached, and wliicb is about 
twenty-four inches long, instead of being 
straight, is bent nearly as the segment of 
a circle, the diameter of which would'be 
equal to the length of the'hook — to this 
circular part is attached an iron weight 
cylindriacally, formed of three or four 
pounds weight by a stiff loop, but roomy 
enough to allow the weight to slide up or 
down the stem, to which the book is 
thrown into the water, this weight not on- 
ly answers the end ol the common sinker 
to keep the line stretched at the depth re- 
quired, but by its superior gravity, so soon 
as it has reached the point prescribed by! 
the length of the line given out, it drawsi 
the hook down in a perpendicular position' 
m the direction ot the line, anci by itsl 
power of slidmgon the stem of the hook, I 
adjusts itself just at the bottom of this,' 
and where the curvature in the opposite I 
direction, that forms the hook proper, be-} 
gins, by the instrumentality of this'weight 
so placed, and operating on the peculiar' 
form of the hook— while suspended by aj 
tight line, the hook remains, with the back' 
of the circular stem turned towards the' 
hand of the fisherman that holds the other! 
end of the line, and of course with the' 
barbed end turned liorn him, whether held I 
still, or kept in motion. | 

Thus prepared the fisherman, some- 
times drags, as it is termed, for the stur- 
geon ; that is, he rows his light little boat 
felowly backwards and forv/ards, with his 
line suspended from the stem at a given 
depth; or, sometimes at anchor he lavs in 
wait, his line stretched perpcndiciiiarly 
imder him, with the hook near the bottom 
— when the fish strikes against any part 
of the line, it is so stirred by its great 
weight as to be sensibly felt by the fisher- 
man, who then hauls rapidly"but steadily 
up, until he feels that the hook has come 
in contact, and has tarned suddenly in- 
ward, the barbed part towards thefi&h; 
when by an instantaneous and strong jerk, 
he buries the barb in its bodv Here is 
the development of the contiivance of 
this hook, and here too is exerted all the 
tact of the lisherman— the hook is drawn 
up as before described with the convex 
part of the stein towards the lisherman, 



the line touching the fish, consequently 
that part of the stem of the hook attached 
to the line reaches the fish, with the barb, 
part turned from it, and as the back of the 
stem is drawn on, being circular, only a 
small part of it at a time is in contact with 
the fish ; but at a certain point of this cour- 
tact, near the middle of the entrance of 
the curve, the weight, from its position 
below, and the facility with which the 
stem plays in the open loop, so operates as 
to cause a sudden turn in the hook and to 
reverse the position of the barbed ,.nd, 
and thn^w it directly under the fish, with 
so smart a tug, that it at once designates 
to the practised hand of the wary fisher- 
man, the critical instant at which be is to 
make his last efibrt ; and he succeeds the 
more readily in the thrust, becau.se from 
the position of the barb, it is brought up 
directly against the belly of the fish, which 
is of soft skin, unprotected by the bony 
shields dispersed over the back and sides. 
So soon as the sturgeon is hung, he makes 
ofi' with great strength and swiftness, the 
line is plaid out to give him play, and tbB 
little boa*, if before stationary, is cast 
loose, so that v;hen the line is out, the 
boat, to which one end was secured, is for 
a time darted so rapidly through the wa- 
ter that her bows are brought almost under; 
his speed however presently slackens, his 
strength exhausted, and he yields himself 
up to be drawn in and hoisted on board. 
An instance occurred near the Little Falls 
some years ago, of the strength and power 
of this fish. A noted fisherman, whose 
name is well known, had incautiously 
made fast one end of the line to his, leg, 
and having hung a sturgeon, was dragged 
over board and drawn cflf by it, to a con- 
siderable distance in the river, sometimes 
above and sometimes under water, but 
from his intrepidity and skill in swim- 
ming, he Avas enabled to get through this 
perilous conflict safely, and to conquer 
the sturgeon and tow him on shore, with- 
out the aid of his boat. It remains to ac- 
count, as to this interesting fishing, by 
which the amateurs for sport, as w^ell as 
the more humble, for gam, are much at- 
tracted, how it happens that the stugeon 
would seem to seek, rather than avoid the 
line put out for his destruction, when there 
is no bait about it to invite him. 

Sportsmen and fishermen, to be good in 
their way, as is known, must be well ac- 
quainted with the habits of the animal 
they would circumvent and bring within 



ALEXANDRIA. 



483 



woric upon -the District of Columbia, 
by -Jonathan Elliot, Esq. 

The summer duck {Anas Sponsa 
of Wilson,) is the only species of the 
numerous water fowl which frequent 
the Potomac, which breed upon its 
borders; the others are migratory. 

The whole tribe has been sensibl)^ 
diminished of late years, by the new 
method of taking them which will 
be presently described, and the in- 
creased avidity with which they are 
sought by persons to supply the mar- 
kets. They are still, however, nu- 
merous, — and consist of various spe- 
cies, — The swa?i, the tvild goose, and 
a great variety of ducks, as the canvass 
back, the red head shoveler, the black 
head shoveler, the duc-a-malard, the 



black duck, the blue toing teal, the to this quarter of the country; they 



green wing teal, and the widgeon. 



are denominated drift fowl, from the 
circumstance of their collecting in 
vast bodies, when at rest, in the mid- 
dle of the river, or feeding in deep 
water, obtaining their food by diving 
to the bottom. The bald face and the 
sprig tail, although they avoid the 
marshes, leed on the margin of the 
river in shallow water, as do the 
marsh fowl, by dipping their heads 
and necks under only ; and all these 
described as marsh fowl, are found 
feeding on the shores of the rivers 
occasionallj\ except the blue winged 
teal, which frequents the marshes ex- 
clusively, and only such as produce 
the wild oat, his favorite food. This 
duck too differs from all the others 
in the time and period of his visits 



are earlier made and of shorter du- 



Of these, the five species first Iration : he comes about the first of 
mentioned are what are called river | September, and goes about the first 
fowl, frequenting only the fresh river; {of November; all the other kinds of 
and the last five kinds are known bjHduck arrive, with us, as the swan 
the name of marsh fowl, feeding 'and geese, from the middle of Octo- 
principally in the marshes bordering |ber to the middle of November ; and 
on the river. Again, of the ri.erjdepart from about the first to the 
fowl — ihecanvass back, the red head jmiddle of March. As to the quali- 
shoveler, and the black head shoveler ^ties for the table, of these fowl, the 

— : — ' jvoung swan is considered a great 

their toils- the simple solution,^ in.tliis|delicacv— while the old one is always 
case, IS said to be, that it is the nabit oiii , - j .-, , , , ^ ■' 

the sturgeon to rub itself against any P^^d, and without agreeable flavor. 
thing stationary that it meets with in the 'The wild goose is deemed much su- 
narroW waters. Iperior to the tame goose. The can- 

We can't dismiss this subject without _„„ i^ r. •. • u„o^vn cfnnHe nnrJ 
mentioning another singular habit belong- r^f ,^5^^' '^ known stands unri- 
ing peculiarly to this fish, that of occa-'''^''™ i° .^^e taste oJ the epicure, as 
sionally throwing itself to a considerable 
distance above water, to the height of at 



least eight or ten feet, .so that in the pause 
between the ascent and descent, the whole 
fish is seen suspended in a horizontal po- 
sition for a moment, in the air. They 
have sometimes fallen in this way, very 
much to the risque of those on board, iii 
the boats plying at the Ferry in George- 
town, in this District: and an untortunate 



the most delicious bird in this or any 
other country. The red head sho- 
veler, and the blue winged teal are 
but little inferior to it, in the estima- 
tion of connoisseurs, in that way; and 
of all the other kinds of these ducks, 
there is not one, when in good con- 
dition, that is not fine game. Most 
of them are found in abundance dur- 



occurrence took place during the revolu- 
tionary war, productive of a most serious jinn the season from the immediate vi- 
accident, on the North river. A sturgeon • v ra •. r\^T \.- ^ j 
came doW from one of those leaps into a Cinity of thecity of Washington, down 
ferry-boat while cros.sing that river, onl'he salts, and som.e of ihem are seen 
the iap of an American officer, who wasjin both the salt and fresh water ha- 
a passenger and sitting in the sturn with ibituallv or occasionally, 
such violence as to break his thigh and 1 rn o : r i 

occasiion his death." I ^"^ Swan is not found nearer 



484 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA' 



than about 30 miles below Washing- 
ton ; at the mouth of Occoquan, on 
the right "bank of the river is his 
highest feeding ground, which is the 
lowest spawning place of the white 
shad. Here, and for some 30 or 40 
miles below, this noble bird is seen 
floating near the shores, in flocks of 
some two or three hundred, white as 
the driven snow, and from time to 
time, emitting fine sonorous, and oc- 
casionally melodious songs, so loud 
that they may be heard on a still eve- 
ning two or three miles ; there are 
two kinds, so called from their res- 
pective notes — the one the trumpeter, 
and the other the slooper ; the trum- 
peter is the larg'est — and wheir at 
full size, will measure from five to 
six feet from the bill to the point of 
the toe, and from seven to eight feet 
from the tip of one wing to the tip of 
the other, when stretched and expand- 
ed. They are sagacious and wary, 
and depend more on the sight than 
on the sense of smell. On a neck 
nearly three feet in length, they are 
enabled to elevate their head so as to 
see and distinguish with a quick and 
penetrating eye objects at a great dis- 
tance, and by means of this same 
length of neck they feed in slack 
tides, by immer.sing, as is their habit, 
nearly all of the body — and Llirowing 
only their feet and tails out, in three 
or four feet water, and on the flatty 
shores they Irequent, generally be- 
yond gun-shot; the sportsman avail- 
ing himself however of a peculiar 
propensity (of which we sliall pre- 
sently speak more particularly) pre- 
vailing with them and some of the 
other water fowl, often toll them with- 
in reach of their fire: the swan re- 
main here the whole winter, only 
shifting their ground in severe wea- 
ther from the frozen to the open part 
of the river, and dropping dovvn into 
the salts where it is rarely frozen. 
They get into good condhion soon 
after their arrival in autumn, and re- 
main iat until toward spring — when 



a few weeks before their departure 
about the first of March, they gradu- 
ally become thinner in flesh, and in 
the latter part of their sojourn here, 
are found so poor and light, that 
when shot, the gunner gets nothing 
fit for use but the feathers: whether 
this circumstance be owing to their 
having exhausted the means of sub- 
sistence at their feeding places, or 
that they are taught by him whgi 
rules the universe, in small as well 
as great things, thus by abstaining, to 
prepare themselves for the long terial 
voyage they are about to undertake, 
we pretend not to determine with cer- 
tainty, there is nothing more won- 
derful in this, than in the fact, which 
is notorious, that they by exercis«^, 
regularly and assiduously fit them- 
selves for this continuous effort, to 
bear themselves through the air to 
the distance of perhaps a thousand 
miles or leagues; large flocks are 
seen every day rising from the river 
and taking a high position, flying 
out of sight and apparently moving 
in a circuit to a considerable distance, 
again returning at or near the same 
place, during the la^t two or three 
vveeks of their stay.* 

The Wild Goose i§ yet more 
wary and vigilant to keep out of 
harm's way than the swan. He too 
is sharp sighted, but depends much 
on his sense of smell for protection ; 
this is so well known to the hunts- 
man, that he never attempts, however 
he may be concealed from this bird, 
to approach it from the direction of 
the Avind, since he would assuredly 
be scented before he could get within 
gun-shot, and left to lament his errxir, 
by the sudden flight of the whole 
flock. These geese toward spring 
often alight on the land and feed on 
the herbage in fields, and sometimes 
in such numbers as to do great in- 



*Perhaps this exercise may account for 
the leanness — and perhaps to produce this 
leanness may be a motive for the exercise. 

Ed. Gaz. 



ALEXANDRIA. 



485 



jury to the wheat fields on the bor- 
ders of the river. When so employ- 
ed they are difficuU of approach, al- 
ways taking a position at a distance 
from cover of any kind — and march- 
ing in a single and extended rank 
flanked by a watch goose at each ex- 
tremity, which, while all the others 
are busily feeding and advancing 
with their heads down among the 
herbage, moves erect, keeping pace 
with his comrades, his eye and nose 
in a position so as to convey to him 
the earliest intelligence of the pre- 
sence of an enemy, though at a great 
distance; and the moment such is 
perceived, it is communicated to the 
whole company by certain tones used 
for alarm, and immediately is res- 
ponded to by a halt and the lifting of 
heads, and an instant flight, or a de- 
liberate return to feeding tal:es place, 
according as the natuve of the dan- 
ger, after the examination may be 
considered. In the progre.ss of this 
march the centinels on the flanks are 
regularly relieved at intervals of 
some fifteen or twenty minutes, they 
falling carelessly into the feeding 
ranks, and others taking in their 
place the tour of duty on their march. 
In this arrayed state, they are attacked 
with great ditficulty by the gunner ; 
his only chance of approach, is by 
means of a horse trained for the pur- 
pose — and much precaution is used 
in this petite guerre. He first, 
on perceiving the flock feeding in an 
extensive field — and on none other 
will they commit themselves — recon- 
noitres the locale, and takes cogni- 
zance of the direction of the wind — 
he then having observed the course 
of march, enters the field at a point 
so remote, as at the same time to es- 
cape close scrutiny, and place his 
game in such a relative situation to 
him, as that he has the wind, — that 
is, be the air light or strong, — it is to 
blow from them toward him, and not 
fi'om him toward them. Next he is 
to estimate by the pace at which he 



finds the flock advancing, and by that 
he is to assume, under cover of the 
ho^-se, at about what point, each mov- 
ing in oblique lines, he will be brought 
within gun-shot of them. All this 
being settled in his mind, he com- 
mences his movement, first having 
taken off" the saddle and tied up the 
bridle, so as to show as little as pos-; 
sible of it, he then, with his gun \x\ 
one hand, and the other on the bridle, 
places himself on the side of the 
horse opposite to the game, his legs 
placed behind the forelegs of the 
horse, and his body so bent as to be 
concealed by the shoulder and neck 
of the horse : in this constrained at- 
titude, he urges his faithful coadjutor, 
slowly in the direction fixed on, al- 
lowing him every now and then to 
stop and regale himself on the young 
wheat or the herbage over which he. 
is making his way. The geese, ac- 
customed to find the domestic ani- 
mals, and none more common than 
the horse, pasturing on the fields they 
frequent — see in his approach no 
cause of alarm — and if due precau~_ 
tion has been taken to guard against 
the snuffing of the taint of man, 
which there is no question that na- 
ture has taught him readily to distin- 
guish, he arrives in due time Avithia 
the deadly reach, and manoevering a 
while to get a raking fire, presently 
deals out destruction on the thus cir- 
cumvented troop. But to attain the 
object, great patience and endurance 
are necessary. Hours are consumed 
in taking and keeping the position 
with the requisite accuracy, as we 
have been assured by our informant, 
who has been an experienced sports- 
man in these regions, and often him- 
self gone through the ordeal of wet 
feet, benumbed hands, bare head, and 
this crooked position of the body for 
several hours, on a stretch, watching 
under the neck of the horse, with 
snatched glance, the bearing of the 
centinels, and on the slightest indica 
tion of suspicion, setting the horse to 



486 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



feed, with his own limbs and body so 
disposed behind him as not be ex- 
posed to the line of vision from the 
other quarter until suspicion was 
lulled again. 

"Ducks. — Of all the duck tribe, 
the canvass back, as well on account 
of their vast numbers, as tVieir supe- 
rior value, are to be placed in the 
first class. They breed, as is sup- 
posed, on the borders of the northern 
lakes or of Hudson bay, they come 
to us periodically, as has been before 
said, from the north, and what is re- 
markable, have never before been 
known to visit, unless rarely and in 
small numbers, any other than the 
waters of the Chesapeake — and of 
these, of late years, they have con- 
fined themselves entirely to the Po- 
tomac and the Susquehannah. For- 
merly they frequented also James 
river, but for the last thirty or forty 
years have deserted that river alto- 
gether ; they were called shelldrakc 
there — as they were in those days in 
the Potomac the tvhite duck — on the 
Susquehannah, the canvass back ; but 
latterly the name of canvass back has 
been given to them on both these last 
named rivers, where they are now 
only known. It is well ascertained 
tlmt they feed on the bulbous root of 
a grass which grows on the flats in 
the fresh water of these rivers, be- 
cause it is always found in their 
craws, and which has very much the 
color and the flavor of garden celery: 
it is to this food, that is attributed, and 
we believe correctly, the peculiarly 
delicious taste of their flesh. 

"It is said that during a remark- 
ably hard winter some forty odd years 
ago, the wind having prevailed a 
long time from the northwest, and 
blown so much of the water from the 
flats of James rivei, that it froze to 
the bottom, inclosing the long tops of 
this grass so closely in the ice, that 
when it broke up and was floated ofl' 
in the spring, it tore the whole of it 
up by the roots and took it away — 



and that from that time to the. present, 
the canvass back duck ceased to make 
his annual visit to that river: and it 
is added, that about the same time the 
carp-fish ceased to frequent it, jand 
indeed it is affirmed, that this fish.i§ 
only found in the rivers, to w-hieh 
that duck resorts. If this really be 
so, it must be, that both are enticed 
by the same kind of food, or that the 
grass in question, by some other 
quality, suits the purposes of the carp 
fish. 

"The canvass back feeds in from 6. 
to 10 feet water; he is an expert 
diver, and with great strength and 
agility, seizing it probably near the 
bottom, eradicates the grass, brings it 
up root and branch to the surface, 
where he bites off the root, (which is 
bulbous, white and about four tenths 
of an inch across, and six tenths long,) 
and eating that only, leaves the. long 
herbaceous part to float on the water. 

"Very frequently there are found 
feeding among these fowl, the Bald 
Fall Duck ; he has not the power 
of diving entirely under water in 
search of his food, and here he is 
employed in watching the rising of 
the canvass back, and in snatching 
the grass from his grasp, much to 
his annoyance, — and though the bald 
face is the smaller duck, as he is 
sprightly and active, he often suc- 
ceeds to get hold before the other has 
done more than put his bill above 
water, and to obtain and make off 
with the prize, (precious part, the 
root and all,) but generally he con- 
tents himself with swimming about 
among the industrious- divers,^ and 
devouring their leavings, the grassy 
part of the plant. The favorite pas- 
ture ground of the canvass back on 
the Potomac is between Crane and 
Mason's Islands, the first about twen- 
ty-five miles below Washington, and 
the latter within the District of Co- 
lumbia opposite to George Town.* 

* When tliis part of the river is con- 
frealed, usually in January, tliey are driv- 



ALEXANDRIA. 



487 



"Of late years, because of the in- 
creas'e of hunters constantly in the 
pursuit, and the quantity of craft fly- 
ing, they have been in a great mea- 
sure driven from the upper beds of 
their favorite food, and are seldom, 
but in small numbers, seen above the 
Bridge, across the river at Washing- 
ton. But a little lower down, and 
where the river becomes wider, when 
at rest' at night, or when they have 
retired from feeding during the day, 
they ride in the midst of it in such 
numbers as literally to cover acres 
of water. When they resort to the 
flats for feeding, they separate in a 
degree, but yet are found thus em- 
ployed in flocks of many hundreds, 
and sometimes thousands. Until 
within the last five and twenty years, 
this game was obtained in no other 
way than by shots from the land, and 
it was therefore, an object of great 
interest and sport with the amateur- 
gun-ners. 

"^♦'The positions opposite io their 
feeding places were known, slight 
biinds of brush wood were thrown up 
On the edges of the banks, previous to 
their arrival in the fall, of four or five 
feet height, under cover of which, in 
a stooping posture, the sportsman can 
reach the desired point undiscovered 
by the sight, (for it happens that this 
bird is not like some of its tribe, as 
the malard and others, armed with a 
strong sense of smell) and here post- 
ed, if one of skill and patience in his 
vocation, he waits often no inconsid- 
erable time for the proper occasion to 
give the greater effect to his fire. 
Sometimes when the tide makes high- 
er, deepening the water near the bank, 
and so inducing the ducks to run 
closer in, but most generally forego- 
ing fair opportunities during every 



en by the ice lower down, to the brackish 
or salt water, and return on its dissolution 
towards spring, but never in such condi- 
tion, or with such ^ood flavor; nor do 
they recover these after such an absence 
during that season. 



few minutes, to fire on detached par- 
ties, sriiall in number, until a good 
portion of the flock has placed itself 
well huddled together, in the desired 
position. The habit of these ducks, 
which, as we have said, are most ex- 
pert divers, is when feeding in flocks 
near the bank, to take their course 
across the shoal from the outer to the 
inner part of it, beginning on the out- 
er part where the water is deepest, 
and progressing inwards with great 
bustle and activity, each darting down 
head foremost with much velocity, and 
presently returning to the surface 
with the sought morsel in its bill, des- 
patching this, and repeating inces- 
santly the operation presenting a con- 
stant and rapid succession of comers 
up and goers down, without order, 
and amidst a great splashing of wa- 
ter, until they find they have ap- 
proached the inmost edge of the 
growth of grass, when suddenly they 
all rise in succession to the surface, 
those first up Availing a moment for 
the last to come, and now the whole 
flock being above water, and exhibit- 
ing three times the number it before 
seemed, with one accord, they fall in- 
to close order, wheel and swim slow- 
ly along, in a direction parallel for 
some two or three hundred feet with 
the bank, as well to recover from 
their fatigue, as to place the columrt 
over ground, not yet foraged ; and this 
done, facing outward, they re-com- 
mence their work of diving and feed- 
ing, now moving toward the outer 
edge of the shoal. 

" It is at this critical moment at the 
proper stage of the wheeling ihotion, 
that the sportsman in ambush, seeks 
to open on his unsuspecting victims 
the deadly fire; it is when with ele- 
vated heads and the greater part of 
the body out of the water, the ducks 
huddled in contact, have presented 
their sides to him, that he directs his 
sight and draws his trigger on that 
section of the flock, which, from its 
position, best suits his object. In 



488 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



sportsman's phrase, "when he hasi 
got the eye, can ruffle the feather and 
string," in other words, when the 
game is so near that their eyes can 
be seen, and in such position tliat the 
shot may not glance off on the fea- 
thers, and that they can be raked by 
the fire; the proper observation of 
which rules often gives it more than 
double the effect. To gain and com- 
bine alltheseadvantages, only belongs 
lothe practised and patient sportsman; 
he must be acquainted with the habits 
of his game, and altho' they pass of- 
ten in review very near him, in the 
foraging process just described, he 
must lie close, and often endure cold 
and wet for a con'siderable time, and 
10 make his shot tell well, resist temp- 
tation, until in its various manoeuvres, 
the flock puts itself most in his pow- 
er; frequently during the ambuscade, 
the wary flock takes alarm, from some 
movement of the real, or a supposed 
enemy, and fly suddenly off; at other 
times, in a sense of danger, not so 
confirmed, it scatters and swims di- 
rectly from the land with great ra- 
pidity, each duck as it emerges, drop- 
ping the fruit of its dive, and taking 
m haste the same track ; an inexpe- 
rienced gunner believing his chance 
gone of doing better fires on them in 
this state, before they get out of his 
reach, but does little execution. Not 
so w ith the old sportsman ; he reserves 
his fire, well knowing that if he re- 
mains covered, or when other cause 
of apprehension, as of some person 
accidentally appearing, shall cease or 
have passed away, the flock will, af- 
ter reconnoitering at a distance for a 
while, return again to its feeding 
ground, and particularly will this last, 
so determine, because he is fully 
aware of the fact, that this swimming 
retreat is always performed under the 
signal of sauve qui peut, and the dou- 
ble precaution of each, separating as 
widely as possible from the other, and 
ginking itself so far under the water 
that nothing but the head and part of 
the neck remains as a mark. 



"There is a singular device prac- 
tised too, by sportsmen, for shooting 
the canvass back, as well as the ether 
ducks, denominated drift fowl, in the 
Potomac, — the red head and black 
head shoveler, and also the swan, 
from the banks ; it is called tolling 
them in, and there can be no question 
of the fact, that each of this descrip- 
tion of water fowl are often brought 
within gun shot, by an artifice prac- 
tised on some propensity with them, 
not easily accounted for. It is some- 
times done by means of a dog, train- 
ed for the purpose, and sometimes by 
moving or shaking in a particular 
way, the branch of a tree Avith the 
dried leaves yet attached, a colored 
handkerchief or some similar thing, 
the color, however, in each case, be- 
ing of a reddish or yellowish hue; 
and an instance of a hunter yet liv- 
ing on the banks of the Potomac, 
who has a thick head of red hair, that 
he wears in a large old fashioned 
queue, Avith a long square brush at 
the end, often using this brush, shak- 
en by one hand when lying in Avait, 
with the rest of his body concealed, 
as a decoy to toll in ducks, has been 
given us from good authority. 

"^The Savan is only tolled by a 
dog, that is taught to play about Avith- 
in easy call of his master, at the edge 
of the Avater; the several species of 
ducks just enumerated, are to be toll- 
ed by the dog in that AA^aj"-, or by the 
other device. In all cases the hunter 
contrives to place himself behind a 
log or some other cover AA'ell conceal- 
ed, before he begins his operations, 
taking care to observe that the direc- 
tion of the Avind is not unfavorable to 
him, and that the flock he means to 
toll is'near enough to distinguish such 
objects on the shore, and under no 
alarm at the time. By what motiA^e 
these foAvls are influenced, Ave have 
not heard satisfactorily explained ; but 
certain it is, they are very commonly 
brought in from some hundreds of 
yards distance, in this way, to within 



ALEXANDRIA. 



480 



point blanket shot. It^is said, and i duck have sensibly decreased since 
perhaps truly, in the case of the dog, iihe practice was introduced, and we 
that they fancy themselves in pursuit jean but join in the opinion, that this 
of so'iie animal, as the fox, or mink, 'terrible dt-siruction of them at their 
by which their young are annoyed at iresting places in the night, where not 
their breeding places. only are great numbers killed, but ve- 



Of late years, however, these 
sports enjoyed by the inhabitants of 
".he bank", of the river, have been vs- 
JV much inter rupted, hy the practice 
'xii shooting from skins, with long 
guns of large calibre, by that class of 
gunners, who hunt for the market. 



ry many are v/ounded and escape in 
the dark, for the time, only to linger 
and die. must ultimately drive off the 
whole- tiibe to some place of greater 
safety, if net offering such grateful 
food. The other drift fo^vl of this 
river have much the habits of, and are 



They u.'5e a very hgnt small skifflhunted somewhat as are the canvass 
made quite sharp at the be ws, capable j back. There is nothing remarkable 
of taking only one man and his enor- .either in the habits or the manner of 
mous gun, so lov/ that when thus la jtaking the rest of the wild fowl, we 
""en. the gun-wales are within tr/o jhave enumerated and not particularly 
aches of the surface, and painted of jde^jcribed. 

the color of the water, in the bottom | "Sora.- — There is yet, however, 
of this skiff, scarcely wider than his one other description of Avatcr fowl 
body, the man lays prostrate, his face jfrequentirjg the Pomac, although, of 
downwards, his gun fixed on a dou- smaller size, less than the snipe, yet 
ble swivel, to the bow-piece, muzzle [affording so great a delicacy for the 
^.out,^ and the breach being close by his jtable, and so much amusem.ent to the 
hea^^-so fixed with an arm over each jsportsma-n-'t^tlt we must not omit to 
side, and grasping a short paddle in notice it. It is the Sora of Virginia, 
either hand, when within a certain and Rail of Pennsylvania, sometimes 
distance of the flock, he btarsf down •calledimpropjirlj'-, Or^ftZa??, in the m.id- 
on it so slowly and regularly, and die states. ' It frequents the tide wa- 



ter marshes of the fresh water of this 
river, and is here only for a few weeks, 



keeping- the little bark in such direc- 
tion, that from its very small eleva- 
tion above the level of the water, and Jarxiving early in September, and de- 
the sharpness of the bow always pre-jparting toward the latter end of Oc- 
iiented toward the flock, he ofien suc-jtober. It is comm.on also we learn, 
ceds in the day, and always in the ion the Delaware, and the Schuylkill, 
night time, to arrive within good dis-jths James river and most of the rivers 
tance for such a piece as he uses, ;ih' the middle 'aild southern states, 
•vhich is very long, and S6 heavy as 'The natural history of this bird has 
/.ot to be fired by the usual method of jbaffled the sfi^rts of the m.ost diligent 
bringing to the shoulder, and with jand acute enquiries en such subjects, 
four or five times the charge of ajit is net known which are its breeding 
common, fowling piece, he commits iplaces, whence it comes to, or whith- 
great slaughter. IMost of this mis- ler it goes from us. It is only certain, 
chief, if rnischit'f it be. is done m the 'that it appears suddenly in great num.- 
night, among the flocks in the mid- Ibers, comes lean, soon gets very fat 
'le of the wide part of the river, ion the seed of the wild oat, which 
^vhere they retire for rest, and ar'eiccnstJtutes its principal and favorite 
found riding asleep vn^h. their heads jfood in these ■waters, — and disappears, 
under their wjngs.;'and mischief welon the apptaar.h of the first smart 
-an but think it, since it is believed i frost, .ill at opce, as it would seem m 
'Hat *h^ p-imb^TS rtfthe canvas? ha"!? '^ rin"^^? rigb-'. — no person '^n gr^fi 



490 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



evidence of the manner or direciion.ihe can load, always, however, al.sin- 
of its arrival or departure; but it is g\e birds: for although hundreds are 



notorious among sportsmen and oth- 
ers, that they may be found in great 
numbers and affording fine sport, on 
a given day in the fall, when if a night 
of smart frost intervenes, on the next 



often all round hiai, and springing 
at every moment within gun shot, 
even two are rarely seen together. 
In the marshes on the upper part of 
the Eastern Branch, and within a 



day, not one is to be found, nor ano- few miles of Washington, this game 
ther seen until the return of their is very plenty, and affords much 
time of visit on the next year. And j amusement to the sportsmen every 
what makes this the more remarkable ! fall. Lower down the Potomac they 
is, that they seem badly provided as alhave another mode of taking the So- 
bird of passage, having short wings jra, Avith less cost, and more expedi- 
and flying heavily, and not being initiously, much practised on the gentle- 
the habit, while here, of congregat- men's estates' in that quarter. It is 
ing; some conjecture that they plunge I done in the night by means of alight, 
into the mud, and lie in a torpid state A canoe is prepared before hand, by 



all the rest of the year, but this, like 
the story of the immersion of the 
swallow, is scarcely credible. Wil- 
son supposes them to be migratory — 
that they have, Avhen it is necessary 



placing across the gunwales amid- 
ships, a few boards constituting a plat- 
form, of about 3 feet square ; this is 
covered with clay, to the thickness of 
two or three inches, and when dry, 



to exert it, greater power on the wingj affords a good hearth; a quantity of 
than is attributed to them generally, Jight wood, so called, (the heart of the 
and that they come hei'e fi'om a morel yellow pine, which after lying fallen 
northern, and pass on io a fcore south- 1 in the woods until the sap part is de- 
em climate which seems to be most 
probable 



ayed, and having concentrated its 
resinous matter, burns fiercely) is 
" They afford fine sport to the gun- j split into small pieces, and thrown 
ner without the necessity of niuch fa- into the bottom of the canoe near the 



tigue or address, they are generally 
shot on the wing, and as they fly 
slowly they are easily brought down 



hearth, and a boy posted by it to keep 
up the fire : tv,-o or three men now 
embark, provided, one with a stout 



with a light charge of small shot. ! common pole to push the canoe, and 
The time of the tide must be observ-ithe others with light poles 12 or 15 
ed — the gunner in alight skiff, push- j feet long, having a flat board 5 or 6 
ed with a pole, by a man in the stern,; inches broad, and a foot or so long, 
goes into the marsh on tile rise of the [nailed on at one end; and enter the 
tide, an hour or two before high Ava marshes frequented by these birds on 
ter, and has to leave it the same time a dark night, at a time of the tide, 



on the ebb, not onlj'- that he may have 
a sufficient depth to float his skiff 
over the flats and fallen grass, but 
because the birds dont rise as freely 
on alarm, when by the absence of 
water they can escape on foot, by run 



when pretty well covered W'ith w'ater, 
the Soraaxe found perched upon ths 
long stalks of the reeds and wild oats, 
to get out of its way. The blazing 
fire throws such a glare of light all- 
around for twenty or thirty paces, that 



ning ove? the mud, and hiding them-jit not only discovers quite plainly the 
selves among the grass, at which, they j birds to those at the fire, but it so de- 
are very adroit. At a favorable tide, coys or stupifies them as to detain 
and when the birds are plenty, there them in their positions, peeping and 
is busy work for 3 or 4 hours lor thcj peering at the light, until they are 
gunner; he may fire almost as fast a.s approached within striking distance 



GEORGETOWN. 



491 



with the flattened poles, and knoclcesdl way by the crew of one canoe on a 
on the head one by ono: thirty or for-l single tide." 
ty (|ozen are sometimos killed in this! 



GEORGETOWN. 



Georgetoavn is a Port of Entry 
and Post Town in Washington coun- 
ty. It was originally laid out under 
ai^ act of the Colonial Assembly o( 
Maryland, passed in May 15th, 1751. 
In 1789 the town was incorporated, 
and is under the grovernmenl of a 
mayor, recorder, alderman and com- 
mon council. This town is situated 
on the left bank of the Potomac river, 
at the head of tide water and the na- 
tural navigation of that river, and is 
separated by Rock creek fro.ii Wash- 
ington, with which there is a ready 
communication at present bj' means 
of two bridges crossing the creek at 
two principal streets of Georgetown, 
and an additional means of commu- 
nication by a pier, of the width of 
160 feet, lately constructed across the 
mouth of Rock creek. 

The town is remarkably salubrious, * 
and it has at all times escaped those I 
summer epidemics that have prevail- 
ed some years in the adjacent coun- 
try. It is handsomely situated on a 
succession of hills, rising gradually 
from the river and creek, to which 
all its streets incline. So that every 
considerable rain thoroughly cleanses 
them of all impurity. For some 
years after the late war, a very active 
business was transacted in the town, 
and the improvements during this 
time were very numerous and orna-; 
mental. Subsequently, and until with-i 
in the last two or three years, its trade' 
has declined, and impiovement been, 
in a great measure suspended; with-| 
in this period, however, there has! 
been a very considerable progressive i 
amendment in trade, and numerous 
valuable buildings, and other improve-; 
ments are now in progress, or have 



been recently completed. Its princi- 
|)al export trade consists, of tobacco, 
flour, leather, soap, candles, beer, &c. 

The annual inspection of tobacco, 
has recently amounted to 5,000 hogs- 
heads; the inspection of flour to more 
tlian 80,000 barrels. There is a con- 
siderable foreign trade with Europe, 
South America and the West Indies. 

Intenkal Improvements. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal 
passes through the heart of the town, 
at the level of thirty-seven feet above 
the river, and is let into an extensive 
basin, formed from Rock creek by 
four detacJhied locks. Being the high- 
est seaport on the Potomac, and the 
first reached by the canal in its de- 
scent, its situation is peculiarly favor- 
able for enjoying the trade which is 
wafted on that great high way, and 
which establishes a ready communi- 
cation from a rich back country,- to 
the basin at Rock, creek. 

"The Locks are almost all of 8 feet 
lift— are built of cut stone, and laid 
in the best h\'draulic cement. 

"The canal from the head of Lit- 
tle Falls, 5 miles above Georgetown, 
receives water from the Potomac ri- 
ver ; and the river being at that point, 
raised by a dam across it, of 4 feet in 
height above the surface. This level 
of vrater is brought down to Congress 
street in the heart of Georgetown, 
and is there 37 feet above low-water 
of the Potomac; on the cast side of 
Congress street there is a Lock, and 
at the tail of the Lock on Jefferson 
street, a bridge ; below Jefferson street 
a second Lock and bridge, to pass 
Washington street; below Washing- 
ton street, a third Lock and bridge at 
the foot of it, to pass Green street; 



492 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 



and below Green street a fourth Lock, 
to let down into the basin of Rock 
creek. 

"The plan of the Basin at Rock 
creek is one of the naost important of 
the details of the whole project, and 
nature seems to have placed Rock 
creek at a point calculated by this im- 
provement to be invaluable. 

"By the project of forming a mole 
or dam across the mouth of Rock 
creek, the outer part of which is 
along the side of the channel of the 
Potomac, where there is from 9 ^o 12 
feet water at low tide. This mole is 
1200 feet long, and 160 feet wide, 
made of stone on both sides, and fill- 
ed between with earth taken from the 
Canal, as it passes through George- 
town, j 

"This mole is intended to raise the j 
water of Rock creek 3 feet above! 
common high tide in the Potomac, 
and retain it uniformly at this height. 
About the middle of th^ mole there 
is a Lock to let down boats into the 
river, and this Lock has a lift of only 
3 feet at high tide, and 6 feet at low 
tide. This Lock with the form pre- 
viously named, bringsthe boats into 
the Potomac river. 

"By the side of the Lock which 
lets into the Potomac, there is a waste 
weir 200 feet long, over which the 
surplus water of Rock creek passes. 

" This mole or dam fiovvs the water 
of Rock creek back about three quar- 
ters of a mile, arid malces a beautiful 
basin from 1 00 to 250 .^eet wide, v/nich 
has a depth of 6 feet water in nearly 
the whole distance, and gives on the 
Washington and Georgetown sides of 
Rock creek, the greatest possible ad- 
vantages for v.;harves and ware-houses, 
which can be imagined. It appears 
that nature never formed a more con- 
venient and useful spot, to end a great 
and important work of this kind, than 
Rock creek, with these improvements 
upon it. And we do not see any place 
where a useful and capacious basin 
could h:ive been formed, which would 



have accommodated the trade with so 
great facility and economy, any where 
in the neighborhoods of Georgetovyn 
or Washington. 

'•The route of the Canal passes 
very direct (almost straight) through 
Georgetown ; and the cutting is gene- 
rally only what is wanted. It is true 
that between Potomac street and ?ligh 
street, there is a short space of 300 
feet, where it was found necessary to 
cut 30 feet, in one place 32 feet. All 
this earth is deposited to form the 
mole or pier; this is the deepest cut- 
ting or excavation on any part ot the 
Canal. • 

"After leaving the streets in George- 
town, the Canal runs along the steep 
bank of the Potomac for a mile and a 
half, the greater part very steep, iorm- 
ed of rock, which required blasting 
with powder; above this last distance 
the country assumes a little more 
gentle declivity and better shapvi for 
a Canal, and it passes along sloping 
ground, till it intersects the old Poto- 
mac Canal, and following that to near 
the v.'e&tern end, it then leaves it and 
lises to a higher level by a Lock of 
8 feet lift, and soon after, another of 
the same lift, and then it passes on for 
one snd a half miles, and then a Lock 
of 8 feet lift; then one and a half 
miles and then another Lock; then 
half a mile, and then commences a 
succession of 6 Locks, at intervals or 
spaces of 100 yards between each; 
then commences a long level of more 
than 4 miles without a Lock, This 
brings you to the Great Falls, where 
are 6 Locks more, at intervals or spa- 
ces of 100 to 200 yards between. We 
jthen reach the head of the Great 
j Falls, and have ascended 20 Locks, 
jor 160 feet from Rock creek. This 
I part of the Canal about the Great 
I Falls presents features in the forma- 
jlion of the country, which are very 
jstriking and bold; and nature has 
;done a good deal by forming a ravine 
jof nearly a mile in length, with huge 
ledges of large blocks of granite or 



GEORGETOWN. 



49J 



gneiss, forming its sides, and where the !peake and Ohio Canal extending' 
water will be from 10 to oU feet deep, & lover this space at an elevation of 37 
iOO to 200 feet wide. Along this we feet above tide water, and of a width 
pass, and a towing path is formed by of 70 to 80 feet, with a depth of 7 ft. 
levelling some, and raising other may supply very numerous rnanufac- 
parls so as to make the path regular turing establishments with Avater, 
on the side of it; at another part of without obstruction to the navigation, 
the Canal there are vertical walls to iThe public insti/i/.fio as and btiildings 
sustain the Canal 50 feet high among consist of the CJeougetown Col- 
the rocks. ^lege; a society of Nuns incorpo- 

"To those who have but a limited jrated by Congress, under the name of 
knowledge of the duties of a Civil En- 1 " The i!ilslers of (he Visilntion,'^ who 
gineer, it has been objected that the conduct a very flourishing female 
plan of cutting so deep through academy. There are 8 houses of 
Georgetown was wrong. It is how- public worship, 2 Roman Catholic, 
ever, believed, that the plan presents 2 Episcopalian, 1 Presbyterian, 2 
manyadvantages. 1st. It enables the Methodist and 1 African, — also 2 
Canal to pass through Georgetown banks incorporated by Congress, the 
with less inconvenience to private pro- Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank of 
perty than any other route, and a great ! Georgetown, and Union Bank, witli 
deal cheaper. 2d. It furnishes an a joint capital of $9,04,130. It 
easy pass Avay by bridges over the contains also a considerable number 
Canal, nearly or quite level with the :of dry good and grocery stores, 1 ex- 
streets, thereby not incommoding the .tensive brewery with several manu- 
buildings along the streets, nor mak- fectories, and every mechanical pur- 
ing the ascent of the streets (which isuit necessary to a town of its magni- 
are now considerable) any steeper, tude, and immediately above the town 
3d. It furnished the earth to make a is an extensive cannon foundry, 
rnole or pier of great width, and ca- 1 The academy under the direction 
pable of receiving warehouses inthejof " The Sisters of Visitation,^'' has 
centre of it, where boats can discharge I been established 33 years, and aver- 
at one end of the warehouse, and ages generally from 70 to 80 young 
ships take in at the other. This fur- ; ladies as boarders, and from 30 to 40 
nishes a plan for transhipment of pro- young ladies as day scholars. Withr 
perty with the least possible expense, in the nunnery enclosure, but detach- 
4th. By making this basin at Rock ed from the academy and approached 
creek, it presents shores where boats from a different street, there are up- 
can lay in safety for one and a half ward of 400 young girls taught gra- 
miles on both its sides. It also finds tuitously, about 200 attending daily, 
a place in its upper part, where boats At the Lancaster School, there are 
not in immediate use, can lay without annually taught about 100 boys, and 
paying much wharfage or expense, : 70 girls. There are 3 other acade- 
and be perfectly safe." mies for young ladies, in which ar^ 

Manufacturing Facilities, taught all the branches of polite and 
Public Institutions, &:,c. — The fashionable education, and 3 acade- 
vicinity of the town naturally offers 'mies for young men, with several 
peculiar advantages for extensive pother respectable schools all conduct- 
manufactories. The river falling 'ed by competent teachers. 
near 40 feet in 4 miles. The Chesa- ■. 



494 



Real, 
Personal, 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 

Assessed valtuiliou of real and personal properly/. 

Total, 
Population at different periods. 



$2,400,000 
280,311 

$2,680,311 





Whites, 


Free Colored, 


Slaves, 


Total. 


In 1810, 


3,235, 


551, 


1,102, 


4,948 


" 1820, 


4,940, 


894, 


1,526, 


7,360 


" 1830, 


6,057, 


1,209, 


1,175, 


8,441 



Annalostan Island. — Opposite 
to Georgetown is Mason's Island pro- 
perly called Annaj^ostan Island. 
It is the seat of Gen. John Mason. 
It has a highly cultivated surface of 
about 70 acres, — the natural soil, 
light and sandy. A causway on the 
Virginia side, and a horse boat ferry 
from Georgetown, facilitates commu- 
nication with this beautiful spot from 
the shores. The highest ground 
p.bove the level of the river is elevated 
about 50 feet, and upon this eminence 
^he dwelling is situated. The usual 
Jides rise about 3 feet. In digging 
for water, it is procured at the depth 
of 20 or 30 feet from the surface. Aga- 
^ized \vood has been discovered in 
well digging. The house which is 
approached through a fine avenue of 
trees, is extensive, with a number of 
convenient buildings attached: from it 
the public buildings in Wiishington 
are seen to advantage. On the N. 
side of the Island an alluvial mea- 
dow is rapidly forming. The S. side 
is substantially walled, and dotted 
with neat white cottages for servants 
buildings. 

Warden justly remarks, that "the 
view from this spot is delightful. It 
embraces the picturesque banks of the 
Potomac a portion of the city, and a 
noble expanse of water. Numerous 
vessels ply backwards and lbr\v:uds 
to animate the scene. 

Georgetown College. — This 
College which is pleasantly situated 



on the northern bank of the Potomac, 
commands a full view of Georgetown, 
Washington, the Potomac, and a great 
part of the District. It^ situation is 
peculiarly healthy. It is under the 
direction of the incorporated Catholic 
clergy of Maryland, and is the oldest 
Catholic seminary in the United 
States: it was first incorporated in 
1799; and in 1815, it received an ex- 
tension of its privileges from Con- 
gress, and was authorized to confer 
degrees. The college library con- 
tains 12,000 volumes. The academic 
or college year commences on the 
15th of September, and ends on the 
31st of July; and commencemtnt is 
near the last of July. The number of 
students is usually about 140 or 150; 
a considerable part of them being day 
scholars. The number of graduates 
is not great. The number graduated 
at the commencement of July 25, 1833 
was 7. — There are 19 professors and 
tutors, TDf whom 3 are professors of 
theology. 

The course of ordinary studies is 
completed in 7 years, at the end of 
which, if the student has made suffi- 
cient progress, he may receive the de- 
gree oi Bachelor of Arts. When a 
scholar presents himself to be receiv- 
ed into the College, he is examined 
by the prefect of studies, and placed 
in that class, for \vhich his prior ac- 
quireuients may have fitted him, he 
then passes on in regular succession 
to the final class of Logic and Moral 



GEORGETOWN. 



495 



Philosophy. If he remain longer, 
and study the higher branches of 
Mathematics and Natural Philoso- 
phy, he may take the degree of Mas- 
ter of Arts. 

RuLEs.REGULATroNsand Course 
OF Instruction. — 1st. In the lowest 
school or class of Rudiments, the 
scholars study the English and 
French Grammars, Caligraphy, A- 
rithmetic, <fec. — and at the conclusion 
of this year (for each class, unless 
some student by their particular ap- 
plication and talents, should merit 
promotion, occupies one year) they 
are supposed to be able to read and 
write English correctly. 

2d. During the next year, (third 
class of Humanities,) the scholars 
continue to study the English and 
French Grammars, and begin to com- 
pose in those languages — Arithmetic 
is continued and towards the end of 
the year they commence the Latin 
Grammar. 

3d. In the second class of Humani- 
ties, they continue English and 
French composition, (these studies are 
continued till the end of Rhetoric.) 
and Arithmetic: they begin Latin ex- 
ercises and read some easy Latin au- 
thors — as Nepos, Cresar, &-c. During 
this year a course of Geography is 
studied, and Greek is begun. 

4th. In the first class of Humani- 
ties, they read portions of Sallust, Ci- 
cero's minor works, and some of 
Ovid's Elegies, Prosody — and com- 
mence History. They study portions 
of the Greek Scripture, Xenophon, 
and Lucian's dialogues. Algebra is 
begun. 

5th. In Poetry, Cicero's minor 
works, Virgil, Horace, Livy and Ho- 
mer, are read. History is continued 
and a treatise of Mythology learned. 
Mathematics continued. 

6th. In Rcthoric — The scholars 
study Rhetoric, Cicero's Orations, 
Homer, Virgil, Horace, History and 
Mathematics. 

7th. This year a course of Logic 



and Moral Philosophy is studied — 
Mathematics continued. 

During the whole course, great at- 
tention is paid to Composition, par- 
ticularly English. There will always 
be a class of Book-keeping for the 
convenience of those who wish to 
learn it. The Italian, Spanish and 
German languages will be also taught 
if required. Music, Drawing, Dan- 
cing, &c. will form additional char- 
ges. 

The College possesses a select Li- 
brary of about 12,000 volumes, the 
use of which is granted to the se- 
nior students without any additional 
charge. 

There are two examinations in the 
year. The minor one in February 
or March, and the other immediately 
before the commencement, which will 
always be a day of public exercises, 
towards the end of July. 

No student is admitted, who cannot 
read and has not a good moral cha- 
racter. •■' ' 

As the members of the College pro-- 
fess the Catholic Reli-gion, the exer- 
cises of Religious worship are Cath- 
olic, but members of other Religious 
denominations are received, of wriom 
it is only required, that they respect- 
fully assist at the public duties of re- 
ligion with their companions. Were 
not this enforced, no proper order, 
such as should be found in large lite- 
rary institutions, could exist in the" 
College. 

No student will be permitted to 
leave the College on visits of any 
length oftener than once a year, viz : 
at the great vacation. If his parents 
live in the District, he will be allowed 
to visit them once a month, but not 
oftener — and he must then always re- 
turn to the College before night. 

Terms. — Every student shall pay 
on entering the College, ten dollars. 
He shall bring a mattrass, a pillow, 
two pillow cases, two pair of sheets, 
four blankets and a counterpane, or 
pay $6 per annum for th« use of bed 



496 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, WASHINGTON CITY. 



and hecMing. Fie must also bring] expense of clothing for six months, 
with him one suit of clothes, as a uni-l With regard to pocket money, it is 
form — which is in winter, a bkie cloth ! desired that all the students should 
coat and pantaloon.s with a black vel-jbe placed on an equality, and that it 
vet waistcoat; in Slimmer, white pan- [.«honld not exceed 12-^ rents per 
taloons with a black silk waistcoat week; and whatever is allowed must 
are used. be deposited in the hands of the di- 

He miist likewise bring with him ^ rectors of the College. Half-board- 
two suits for daily wear, for which ers are received on the usual terms, 
no particular color is prescribed; six, viz. $5 entrance, and $65 for board 
shirts, six pair of stockings, six pock-iper annum. 

et handkerchiefs, three pair of shoes,! Day scholars, $.5 for fuel and ser- 
a hat and a cloak or great coat, also vants, as no charge is made for tuition, 
a silver spoon. These articles if not ; Convent. — The Convent of the 
brought by the student will be furnish- Sisters of Visitation, is a plain, sub- 
ed by the College and included in the stantial, but gloomy-looking, monas? 
first bill. tic institution, which must recall, 

The pension for board, washing, amid.'^t its .solitudes, to the recollection 
mending and mending materials — of the contemplative mind, the touch- 
use of books, (philosophical and math- ing story of Abelard and Eloisa. — 
ematical excepted,) pens, ink and I'he solemnity of the scene is in strict 
writing paper, slates and pencils is keeping with the object of the edifice. 
$1-50. Medical aid and medicine,' The visiter is admitted into the 
unless parents choose to run the rh\<^.>: peaking room, as it is called, which 
of a Doctor's bill in case of sickness, lis separated from the sanclum ^ancto- 
$3 per annum. All chargest must j /"«/«, by substantial wooden bars, re- 
be paid half yearly in advance. sembling the grates of a prison. The 

For the convenience of parents, SLslcrs are clad in sable garments, 
particularly those at a distance, the with deep black hoods, and white 
College will undertake to supply the :vei]s descending to the waist. The 
students with clothing. The annual Nuns are from various States of the 
expense cannot be specified, as it de- Union, and generally number about 
pends upon the age and wearing of .30. The process of initiation is the 
the student: all that can be said, is ^same as the other nunneries, the no- 
the strictest econorriy and simplicity j vitiate being two years, the first for 
will be observed. If parents wish jthe white veil, and the second for the 
the College to supply their children iblack, after which, there can be no 
with clothes, a deposit is required by 'retreat, 
the College equivalent to the probable' 

WASHINGTON CITY. 



WA.sHiNCrTON City, the seat of 
the C4eneral (Tovernment of the U. 
S. of America, and capital of the Dis- 
trict of Columbia, is situated on the 
left or Maryland side of the Potomac, 
near the head of tide water, and by the 
river and Chesapeake bay, 290 ms. 
from the Atlantic. It is 38 ms. S. 
W. from Baltimore, 136 from Phila- 
delphia, 225 from New York, 432 



from Boston, 595 from A-ugusia, 
IMaine, 546 from Detroit, IMichigan, 
1,068 from Uittle Rock, Arkansas, 
856 from St. Louis, 1,203 from New 
Orleans, 662 from Savannah, Georgia, 
and 544 from Charleston, S. C. The 
capitol stands in lat. 38° 52' 45"; long. 
W. from the observatory at Green-, 
wich 76° 55' 30", and is located ati 
t!ie jiinction of the rivers Potomac 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



497 



dnd Eastern biranchj extending nearly 
4 ms. up each, and including a tract 
bf territory, exceeded in point of con- 
venience, salubrity and beauty by 
tlone in America. For although the 
land in general appears level, yet by 
gentle and gradual swellings, a varie- 
ty of elegant prospects are produced, 
and sufficient descent formed for con- 
veying off the water occasioned by 
tain. Within the limits of the city 
are a great number of excellent 
springs, — water of the best quality 
may readily be had, and the never 
failing streams that run through that 
territory, are also collected for the use 
of the city. The waters of Reedy 
branch and of Tiber creek, may be 
conveyed to the President's house. 
The source of Tibet creek is elevated 
236 ft. above the level of its tide wa- 
ter. The perpendicular height of the 
ground on which the Capitol stands 
is 78 ft. above the level of the tide in 
Tiber creek, — the waters of Tiber 
creek may therefore be conveyed to 
the Capitol, and after watering that 
part of the city may be destined to 
other useful purposes. The Eastern 
branch is one ot the safest and most 
commodious harbors in America, and 
is sufficiently deep for the largest 
Ships, for about 4 ms. above its mouth, 
while the channel lies close along the 
bank adjoining the city, and affords a 
large and convenient harbor. The 
Potomac although only navigable for 
small craft for a considerable distance 
from its banks, next to the city, (ex- 
cepting about half a mile above the 
junction of the river,) will, neverthe- 
less afford a capacious summer har- j 
bor, as an immense number of Ships 
may ride in the great channel oppo- 
site and below the city. The situa- 
tion of this metropolis, is upon the 
great line of communication, about 
equi-distant from the northern and 
southern extremities of the Union, 
and nearly so from the Atlantic and 
Pittsburg; upon the best navigation 
and in the midst of a commercial ter 
63 



ritory, probably the tichi'St, and com- 
manding the most extensive internal 
resources of any in America, to re- 
commend it as an eligible place for 
the permanent seat of the General 
Government; and it has grown up 
with an extraordinar}'^ degree of ra- 
pidity. But its gro^vth is rathei: to 
be attributed to the vast amount ex- 
pended in it by the Federal Govern- 
ment, and the numerous strangers 
brought thither, than to its commer- 
cial advantages, great as they are.— 
The city of Baltimore being go near 
it, and having such immense advan- 
tages in the greater capital enterprise 
and skill of her merchants, in conti- 
guity to the ocean, and greater facili- 
ty of approach, in her greater age 
and established commercial character 
and intercour.se, — and lastly in being 
a city of a state with a much more ex- 
tended territory, all the advantages of 
which that state naturally desires to 
pour into her lap,— and that identical 
territory too, being the very source 
from which the materials of com- 
merce would have to be drawn by 
Washington, — the latter can never 
hope to rival the former in her com- 
mercial prosperity. 

The city of Washington has also to 
complete Avith the town of George- 
town, Alexandria and Fredericks- 
burg, much of the commerce of which 
would flow to her if those towns did 
not exist. 

The fact, however, that Washing- 
ton is not likely ever to be an over- 
grown commercial city, is not at all 
to be regretted by the statesman. The 
legislation of the Union would not be 
at all benefitted by the presence of a 
noi.sy, disorderly mob, — Avliich is al- 
most sure to exist in a large commer- 
cial city. 

Thk plan of this city appears to 
contain some important improvements 
upon that of the best planned cities in 
the world, combining in a remarka- 
ble degree, convenience, regularity, 
[elegance-of prospect, and a free circu- 



498 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



lation of air. The position for the 
different public edifices, and for the 
several squares, and areas of differ- 
ent shapes, as they are laid down, 
were first fixed on the 'most advanta- 
geous ground commanding the most 
extensive prospect, iind from, their sit- 
uation susceptible of such improve- 
ment as either use or drnament might 
at any time require. The sail isi 
generally sterile, mixed with pebbles 
and sand, the length of the city Irom 
S. E. to N. W. is H ms. •, mean 
width 2^, containing a fraction less 
than 8:^ sq. ms. The city was laid 
out under the supervision of Gene- 
ral Washington (then President 
of the United States) in 1791. The 
principal streets are called avenues, 
and named after the diflerent states of 



the Union. These diverge from the 
Capital and President's house, and a 
direct line of communication between 
these two edifices is forrned by Penn- 
sylvania avenue, the principal and 
finest street of the city. The avenues 
are crossed by streets running N. 
and S. alphabetically arranged, and 
others running E. and W. numerical- 
ly arranged. Many of these are 
shaded, and all of them very broad, — 
the former being from 120 to 160 feet 
in w'idth, and the latter from 70 to 
110. 

The City is divided into six wards, 
the following table gives a correct 
statement of the census, assessments, 
and valuations of each, up to Decem- 
ber 31, 1830. Agreeably to the last 
census 















TAX-56cfS^, 


WARI>S. 


CENSUS. 


BUILDINGS 


LOTS. 


PERSONAL. 


TOTAL. 


ON $100. 


First 


3,678 


657,833 


760,494 


153,150 


1,571,477 


8,800 2? 


Second 


4,049 


724,705 


752,538 


139,890 


1,617,133 


9,055 94 


Third 


5,751 


1,105,855 


1,132,336 


200,420 


2,438,611 


13,656 '22 


Fourth 


1,861 


253,100 


290,603 


45,120 


588,823 


3,297 40 


Fifth 


1,357 


174,410 


334,986 


24,475 


533,871 


2,989 67 


Sixth 


2.131 


209,139 


217,075 


37,225 


463,435 


2,595 23 



Total, 18,827 3,125,038 3,488,032 600,280 7,213,350 40,394 76 



The Number of buildings erected 
in the City in 1830 was, 178, — 86 of 
which were of brick and 92 of wood. 
The total number of buildings in 1831 
was, 3,560,~of these there were pub- 
lic 65— dweliings, 3,233.,. and 5^62 
shops and warehouses. 

In the stores, and. particularly on 
the Pennsylvania avenue, there is a 
great variety, well supplied, contain- 
ing every description of dry goods, 
groceries, hardware, china, glass, 
drugs, millinery, confectionery, fruit, 
clothing, hats, shoes, boots, books, sta- 
tionery, leather, chairs, plate, jewel- 
lery, in short, every article of neces- 
sity or ornament. 

The Mecka7iic Arts.— -The print- 
ing business, by the agency of steam 
and Hand labor, alona employs during 



the winter season about 300 hands. 
There are four daily papers exten,- 
sively circulated ; also 4 weekly, eiT- 
culated extensively. Book-binding, 
engraving, cabinet making, tobaccQ 
manufacturing, hatting, saddlery, shoe 
and boot makmg, tailoring, coach 
making, blacksmith's work, giitv 
smJths, &c. are extensively carried 
on and employ a number of Work- 
men. Not less than 8 or 9 millions 
of bricks are made annually, employ- 
ing nearly 200 hands in the warm 
weather. Bricklayers, carpenters, 
painters, glaziers, and in short, every 
mechanic connected with the erection 
of buildings, are extensively engaged 
in the summer season. 

The population of Washington has 
increased rapidly, and from its being 



WASHINGTON CITY. 499 



the seat of the government of the 
county, and its salubrious and healthy 
location, it must continue to augment 
in number. 

In 1800 its population was 3,210 ;l 



in 1803, 4,352; in 1807, 5,652; in 
1810, 8,208; in. 1817, 11,299; in 
1820, 13,246; and in 1830, 18,827, 
consisting of 



White Persons. Free Colored. Slaves. Total. 

Males, 6,581 1,342 1,010 S,933 

Females, 6,798 1,787 1,309 9,894 



Total, 13,379 3,129 2,319 18,8^7 

The POBLic buildings in Wash- mac, as far as Alexandria. — It is. of 
ington are numerous and many of j the Corinthian order, and the most 
them elegant. Among these the first | magnificent edifice in the U. States.. 
m rank is the Capitol, — it stands on I It is situated near tlie western extrerni- 
a most beautiful eminence, command- ty of the Capitol square; it is built of 
ing a complete view of every part of free stone, and composed of a central 
the City, and a considerable part of edifice and two wings, and is. of the 
the country around, with the Poto-i following dimensions, viz; 

Feet. Inches, 

Length of front, - . 350 5 

Depth of wings, - - 121 6 

Eastern projection, -.--'- 65 

Western do. ------ - 85 

Height of wings to top of balustrade, , . . 70 

Central Dome, .------ 120 

Length of Representatives' Hall, . - , . 96 

Height of do. do - • = ■ 60 

Length of Senate Chamber, . . , . . 74 

Height of do. do - - • - - 42 

Height of Rotunda, 96 

Diameter of do. - - • - - ■ 96 

The Representatives' Hall is, wheel of the car is intended as the 
in the second story of the south wings face of a clock, which, is to be placed 
and is semicircular in form. The .'behind, and the front contains mbas- 
dea^ and galleries of the Hall, are i so relievo a figure of Fame, and a 
supported by pillars of variegated profile bust of Washington. Above 
marble from the banks of the Poto-| the Speaker's chair, is a colossal fi- 
mac. This apartment is truly mag-jgure of Liberty, in plaster, pointing 
nificent. In front of the Speaker's jto the Hall below, and supported on 
chair, and over the entrance into the j the right by an American Eagle — 
Chamber, stands an allegorical figure, land on the left by the Roman fasces, 
— formed of Italian marble, repre-i which are partially enveloped in the 
senting History in the act of re- 'folds of a serpent. Immediately un- 
cording theproceedingsof the nation. ;der this figure, on the frize is carved 
She stands on a winged car, which j in alto relievo another Eagle in, the 
seems to roll over a section of the J attitude of flying, 
terrestrial globe, exhibiting in basso, The Senate Chamber in ihe 
relievo the signs of the zodiac. The north wing is of the same semi-cir- 



500 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



GulaP farm, a screen of Ionic columnSi 
with Capitols after those of the tem- 
ple of Minerva Polias, supports a gal- 
lery to the east, and forms a lobby be- 
low, — and a new gallery of iron pil- 
lars and railings, of a light and ele- 
gant structure, projects from the curv- 
ed walls, — the dome ceiling is enrich- 
ed with square caissons of stucco. 
The intervals between the marble pi- 
lasters in the wall are covered with 
straw-colored drapery. Columns of 
Potomac marble, support the eastern 
gallery. 

The Rotunda occupies the cen- 
tre. This is the principal entrance 
from the east Portico and west Stair, 
and leads to the legislative halls and 
library, which contains 16,000 vo- 
lumes. This room is divided in its 
circuit into pannel.s, by lofty Grecian 
pilasters, which support a bold en- 
tablature, ornamented with a wreath 
of olive. — A hemispherical dome ris- 
es above, filled with large plain cais- 
sons, like those of the Pantheon at 
Rome. The pannels of the circular 
Avails are appropriated to paintings 
and basso relievos of hi.storioal sub- 
jects. This noble edifice was, not 
quite completed when the British ar- 
my under Gen. Ross, (who was af- 
terwards slain in battle near Balti- 
more) in August, 1814, made a sud- 
den incursion, after defeating the 
American troops at Bladensburg, 
gained possession of the City, setting 
fire to the Capitol, President's house, 
public offices, &c. reducing the whole 
to ashes, together with the valuable 
library of Congress. The founda- 
tion of the north wing was laid in the 
presence of Gen. Washington on the 
iSili of Sept. 1923, and finished in 

1800, cost $480,262 57. — South 

wing commenced in 1803, and finish- 
ed ill 1808,— cost $308,808 41,— and 
the centre, on the 24th of May, 1818, 
being the anniversary of its destruc- 
tion hy the British, and finished in 
1827— cQGt $957,647 35. The build- 
ing covers an acre and a half, or i82Q 



square feet, exclusive of its enclosure 
for fuel ; and-an elegant ar€a and,gla» 
cis on the west front. • 

The square contains 22^ acres, end' 
bracing a circumference of three^ 
fourths of a mile, and 185 feet, en^ 
closed by a substantial iron railing 
with very neat gate-ways. Gravel 
walks, and beautiful borders of shrub- 
bery and flowers, forming a delights 
ful promenade for the use of the citi* 
zens, Opposite to the west front i« 
the botanic garden ground, a situa-^ 
tion well adapted for the purpose, 
which it is supposed will be placed 
under the care of the Columbian Jr^ 
stitule. "At the west front of the 
Capitol is placed the beautiful marble 
monument (which lately stood in the 
navy yard) erected by the American 
officers, to the memory of their breth- 
ren who fell before Tripoli in the 
year 1804. It is a small doric co* 
lumn, with emblematical enibellishr 
ments, and crowned with an eagJei^ 
the act of flying. Its base is sculpt 
tured in. basso relievos, representing 
Tripoli, — its fortress, — the Mediter- 
ranean and our fleet in the fore- 
ground and on each angle stands an 
appropriate marble figure. The one 
represents Cohimbia directing the at- 
tention of her children to History^ 
who is recording the daring and in- 
trepid action of the American heroes, 
— the third represents Fame with a 
wreath of laurel in one hand and a:; 
pen in the other: and the fourth, Mi?r-.. 
cury, or the God of commerce, wit^ 
his cornucopia and caduceus. > 

The President's House is two 
stories hig|i with a lofty basepaent, and 
is 180 feet long and 85 wide. To 
each end there is attached the neces- 
sary offices, stables, coal and ice hous.- 
es, with a colonnade front rising Ip a 
level with the main floor of the house; 
the roofs being flat these offices afford 
a terrace suitable for a promenade. It 
is built of white free stone. — The 
building is 170 feet in front and 86 
deep, and is crowned vvith a balus- 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



501 



trade; the roof is covered with cop- 
per, and the entrance fr«m the north 
IS through a lofty portico, which is 
projected from the front, so as to leave 
Toooi for a carriage to pass under be- 
tAveenthe platform and outer columns. 
; The house stands on an elevation 
of 44 feet above the usual high water 
of the river Potomac, in the centre of 
3 large reservation of ground of 20 
acres. The front entrance faces north, 
upon an open square, and the garden 
front to the south, possessing a de- 
lightful water prospect, together with 
a conimanding view of the Capitol, 
and the most important parts of the 
City. The Virginia and Maryland 
shores of the river, and Potomac 
bridge, and of the opposite view to 
the south, is extremely beautiful and 
picturesque It is an elegant build- 
ing and stands about one and a half 
miles from the Capitol. 

The entrance is subdivided into 
h^lh, sets of apartments for the ac- 
commodation 01 a large family, and 
for the reception and entertainment of 
numerous guests. Liberal provisions 
have been made by Congress from 
time to time for furnishing the build- 
ing in a style appropriate to its ele- 
gance and uses to which it is dedi- 
cated. 

There are on the same open area 
on which the President's house is lo- 
cated, four other buildings, quadran- 
gular in shape, two stories high, built 
q( brick and stuccoed. Of these the 
two on the east are the Departments 
of State and the Treasury* -~.*hose 
on the west, the Departments of War 
and, the Navy. The General Post 
Office is on Pennsylvania Avenue, 
^nc| the Patent Office is kept in the 
same building. 

The City Hall is not yet comple- 
ted, but the plan is that of a noble 
structure. Its front is 200 feet, — the 

♦ The Treasury building was consumed 
by fire in the summer of 1833, and has nol 
Since beeu rebuilt, but will soon be com- 
menced. 



elevation of the north front 72 feet, — 
its Rotunda is 66 feet in diarueter, — 
and Courtroom 70 by 40. 

There is a Masonic Hall which is 
a handsome edifice, lately erected 
near the City Hall. 

There are also four well supplied 
market-houses, — an infirmary,- — a fe- 
male orphan asylum, — a jail, — a the- 
atre, — 5 extensive hotels, — a foundry, 
— several breweries, — a museum and 
City Library. 

There is a Penitentiary provided 
for the use of the Distj-ict, which is 
under the following rules and regula- 
tions: 

Of the reception a,nd discharge of 
convicts. 

" 1st. On the arrival of a convict, 
immediate notice shall be given to the 
Physician, who shall examine thp 
state of his health- He shall then be 
stripped of his clothes, and clothed in 
the uniform of the Prison, as hereaf- 
ter provided ; being first bathed and 
cleaned, and having his hair cut close, 
as prescribed by law. 

2d. He shall then be examined by 
the Warden and Clerk, in the pre-, 
sence of as many of the keepers as 
can conveniently attend, that they may 
become acquainted with his person 
and countenance,and his name, height, 
apparent age, alledged place of na^ 
tivity, complexion, color of hair and 
eyes, and length of feet, to be accu- 
rately measured, and all visible scars 
or marks, the Court convicted in, and 
crime found guilty of, and length of 
sentence, shall be entered in a book 
provided for that purpose, with such 
other general description, as may tend 
to his or her future identification; 
and if the convict can write, his or 
her signature shall be written under 
the said description of the person. 

3d. All the effects on the person 
of the convict, as well as his clothes, • 
shall be taken from him, and preserv- 
ed and taken care of, if worth it. by 
the Warden, to be restored tp him on 
his discharge. 



502 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



4th. The convict shall be instruct- 
ed carefully by the officers, in the rules 
and regulations of the Prison, by 
which he is to be governed ; and if in 
health, shall there be put to work, at 
such trade as he knows, if practica- 
ble; if not, or he has no trade, the 
Warden shall select such trade or em- 
ployment as seems best suited to his 
strength and capacity. 

5111. When a convict shall he dis- 
charged, by the expiration of the term 
for which he was sentenced, or by 
pardon, he shajl take oft' the Prison 
uniform, and have the clothes brought 
by him to the Prison, restored to him ; 
or, if they are unfit, a new, cheap, 
and suitable laborer's dress, with the 
other property or effects, if any, taken 
from him on his commitment. 

6th. When a prisoner is discharg- 
ed, it shall be the duty of the War- 
den, if practicable, to learn from him 
his former history, the means of mo- 
ral and religious instructioa, enjoyed 
by him, the early temptations to crime, 
to which he was exposed, or by which 
Le was assailed, his habits, predomi- 
nant passions, and prevailing vices, 
and in what part of the country he 
intends to fix his future residence; all 
of which shall be entered by the 
Clerk, in a book to be kept for that 
purpose, together with his name, age, 
undtitae of discharge. 

7th. If the Inspectors and Warden 
have been satisfied with the industry, 
good order, and morality of his eon- 
duct, they shall give him a certificate 
to that effect. 

Rations and clothing. 

1st. The ration for each man per 
day, shall be 

12 oz. of pork or 16 oz. of beef; 

10 oz. of wheat flour, not bolted, 

12 oz. of Indian meal ; 

^ gill of Molasses; 
and 2 quarts of rye, 4 quarts of salt, 
4 quarts of vinegar, 1^ oz. of pepper; 
and 2^ bushels of potatoes to each 1 00 
rations. The rations of the women 
and boys, shall be as nearly in pro- 



portion, as possible, taking into con- 
sideration age, health, «kc. 

2d. Salt pork and salt beef shall be 
furnished alternately, each three days : 
and fresh beef once in each week, or 
oftener, if the Warden shall see fit 
and proper: all the articles to be of 
good quality, and sound. 

3d. The clothing for each convict 
shall be a roinidabout, or over jacket, 
a vest and pantaloons, made of wool, 
for the winter, and cotton or linen, 
for the summer: with stripes running 
round the body and limbs, a cap of 
the same cloth, leather shoes, and 
woollen socks, and shirts of coarse 
cotton or linen. Each convict shall 
have a raattrass, two blankets made 
of coarse woollen yarn, not less than 
1| yards wide, and 2^ yards long, one 
coarse sheet, of the same size. They 
shall not be permitted to lie down, or 
to rise up from their beds, until no- 
tice given by the bell, for that pur- 
pose; nor shall they be permitted to 
sleep in their clothes. 

4th. The hour for breakfast, from 
the 20fli March, to the 20th of Sep- 
leniher, shall be 7 o'clock, A. M. ; 
and, from the 20th September, to the. 
20th March, 8 o'clock. The hour 
for dinner shall be 1 o'clock, P. M. 
The convicts shall be allowed forty- 
five minutes at breakfast, and one. 
hour at dinner; at the expiration of 
which time, they shall be turned out 
of their cells, and again put to labor. 
Duties of covvicis. 

1st. Every convict shall be indus- 
trious, in the performance of any du- 
ty assigned to him, he shall labor dili- 
gently, and in silence, and obey im- 
plicitly, the orders of the officers of 
the institution. 

2. No convict shall secrete, or hide, 
or carry about his person, any instru- 
ment or thing, with intent to make his 
escape, or in any other manner en- 
deavor to make his escape. 

3d. No convict shall dispute, quar- 
rel with, or in any manner misbehave 
I to another convict, nor converse with 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



503 



any other prisoner, williout the leave, j 
or by the order of an officer; nor ab- 
sent himself from his woric, nor look 
at, or speak to visitors, nor go into 
the prison yard, without orders, nor 
go into the lodging rooms, after be- 
ing turned out in the morning, till or- 
dered, nor leave the hospital, when 
unwell, and sent there. 

4th. No convict shall drink any 
spirituous, vinous, or fermented li- 
quors, unless prescribed by the phy- 
sician, when sick in the hospital, nor 
game in any form, or by any device 
whatsoever, nor chew or use tobacco. 

5th. No convict shall Avrite or re- 
ceive a letter, to, or from any person 
whatever, nor have intercourse with 
persons without the prison, by any 
other means. 

6th. No convict shall burn, or in 
any other manner waste, destroj', or 
injure, any raw materials, or manu- 
factured articles, or other public pro- 
perty, nor deface or injure the prison, 
or any of the buildings or fixtures 
connected with it 

7th. No convict shall laugh, dance, 
whistle, sing, run, jump, or do any 
thing which will tend to alarm or dis- 
turb the prison. 

8th. Convicts shall always conduct 
themselves towards the officers of the 
institution, with deference and re- 
spect: and cleanliness in their per- 
sons, dress, and bedding, is required. 

9th. Whenthe convicts go to meals. 
or to, or from the shops, they shall 
proceed in regular order, in silence, 
rrtarc^iing in the lock step, accompa- 
nied by their proper officers. They 
shall eat their meals, till a common 
hall is provided, in their respective 
cells. 

Punishments. 
1st. For the violation of any of the 
foregoing rules and regulations, the 
offenders shall be punished by the 
Warden, with confinement, in a soli- 
tary cell, on a diet of bread and wa- 
ter, not exceeding twenty days, for 
each oifence; but subject, however, to 



be mitigated or suspended by the vi- 
siting inspector, at his next weekly 
visitation; or by the Board of Inspec- 
tors, at their monthly meeting; and 
to whom such cases of punishment 
shall be regularly reported, by the 
Warden, with the nature, particulars, 
and aggravation of the offences." 

The Columbian College,— 
founded by the Baptists, and incorpo- 
rated by Congress in 1821, went into 
operation in 1822. It has an elevated 
and pleasant situation to the north of 
the city, one mile from the President's 
house, and two and a half miles froni 
the Capitol. Its buildings consist of 
a College edifice of 4 stories, 117 feet 
by 46, having 48 rooms for students, 
a chapel, &c.; another edifice of the 
same dimensions is erected, and con- 
nected with the first by a building of 
one story, 80 feet by 40, designed for 
a refrectory; a philosophical hall and 
2 houses for professors. The College 
has a good philosophical apparatus 
and library of 4000 volumes. The 
only public aid which it has received 
was a grant from Congress of $25,- 
000. 

The following is the course of study. 

Studies and text-books of the Col- 
lege classes: 

Freshma7i Class. — Gra;ca Majora, 
vol. I. begun; Livy, first 5 books; 
Adams' Roman Antiquities; Cam- 
bridge Course of Mathematics, com- 
prising, 1. Lacroix's Arithmetic, 2. 
Euler's Algebra, 3. Legendre's Ge- 
ometry, begun; Worcester's Geogra- 
phy, Murray's Grammar; Walker's 
Rhetorical Grammar; writing trans- 
lations of select portions of the Latin 
and Greek Classics, and declamations 
weekly; revision of some of the stu- 
dies required for admission. 

Sophomore Class. — Groeca Majora, 
vol. 1. finished; Irving on Composi- 
tion; Hedge's Logic; Legendre's 
Geometry, finished; 4. Lacroi.v's Al- 
gebra; 5. Analytic Geometry, com- 
prising Plane and Spherical Trigo- 
nometry, and the Application of Al- 



504 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



gebra to CTeoinotry, particularly tol A preparatory school is (Jonnected 



Conic Sections, begun; S. E. Morse's 
Geography; Tytler's General Histo 
ry, Horace, Lalina Excerpta; compo- 
sition and declamation weekly. 

Junior Class. — Grfeca Majora, vol 
II. begun; Blair's Lectures on Rhe- 
toric; Paley's Natural Theology; 
Analytic Geometry, finished ; 6. To- 
pography, or the Application of Ge- 
ometry to Projections, Dialling, Men- 
suration df heights and distances ; 
Navigation, Nautical Astronomy, 
Surveying, Levelhng, &lc. Farrar's 
Natural Philosophy, begun; Cicero 
de Offlciis, de SenectutOj arid de Ami- 
citia ; Paley's Moral Philosophy ; 
Natural History; Chemistry, Camp 
bell's Philosophy of Rhetoric ; de- 
clanlation and composition. 

Senior Class. — Grceca Majora, Vol. 
II. finished; Cicero de Oratore ; se- 
lect portions of Homer's Iliad ; 7. 
Differential and Integral Calculus ; 
Farrar's Natural Philosophy, finish- 
ed ; Stewart's Philosophy of the 
Mind; Paley's Evidences; Butler's 
Analogy; Vattel's Law of Nations; 
Consthution of the United States ; 
Kent's Commentaries, Vol. I. decla- 
mation and composition. 

The higher Classes are admitted to 
Courses of Lectures on Natural Phi- 
losophy, Anatomy and Physiology, 
Chemistry, Botany Moral and Intel- 
lectual Philosophy. 

The College year is divided into 
two sessions, of about five months 
each ; the first, from the second Wed- 
nesday of January, to the first Wed- 
nesday of June, when the summer 
Vacation of two months occurs: the 
Second, from the first Wednesday of 
August, to the third Wednesday of 
December, w*hen the annual com- 
mencement takes place, and the win- 
ter vacation of one month begins. 

On occasions of great interest, the 
students are permitted to hear the ar- 
guments in the Supreme Court of the 
United States, and ihe debates in 
Congress. 



with the College, in which pupils are 
fitted for admission to the Freshman, 
or higher classes, studies, reading, 
writing, English Grammar, Arithme- 
tic, and Geography. Adams' Latiti 
Grammar, Historia Sacra, Caesar's 
Commentaries, — Virgil, Sallust and 
Cicero's Select Orations, Valpy's 
Greek Grammar, the Gospels, and 
Jacobs' Greek Reader. For admis- 
sion to the Freshman class, a know- 
ledge of these studies, or an equiva- 
lent, is required. Geometry, Alege- 
bra and other higher studies, are also 
pursued in this school. 

There are also connected with fhis 
establishment a medical department, 
which was organized in 1824, and a 
large and commodious building has 
been erected for the use of the Institu- 
tion, on 10th St. about equi-distant 
from the Capitol and the President's 
house. This building is large and 
commodious, consisting of 3 elevated 
stories, with a roof peculiarly con- 
structed for the admission of light in- 
to all the apartments appropriated to 
anatomical purposes. 

On the ground floor is the Lecture 
Room, Laboratory, &c. of the Pfofes- 
sor of Chemistry. 

The second story contains the 
rooms, public and private, of the Pro- 
fessors of the Theory and Practice of 
Medicine ahd of Materia Medica, and 
of the Institutes of Medicine and Med- 
ical Jurisprudence. 

In the third is the Anatomical 
Theatre, together with rooms occu- 
pied by the Professors of Anatomy, 
Surgery and Obstetrics. 

The theatre is designed from the 
most approved plans, and is conve- 
niently connected with the rooms sit- 
uated in the superior part of the build- 
ing, which are intended for the pur- 
pose of Practical Anatomy. In rela- 
tion to this particular department of 
the school, care has been taken to 
provide space, light and security, to- 
gether with every other specific con- 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



605 



venience that may afford to the stu- 
dent facility in prosecuting- to advan- 
tage this necessary part of his colle- 
giate studies. 

The Professor of Anatomy has fur- 
nished himself with all theAnatomi- 
cal preparations which are necessary 
to his course, and wit^ a large col- 
lection of valuable dra\v|(jjgs, by which 
the structure, of thos&minute parts 
which cannot be fully displayed with- 
in the recent or proposed subject, are 
exhibited to view on^a magnified 
scale. % 

The Professor of Chemistry is in 
possession of an extensive appyaratus, 
by the aid of which, all fejic important, 
experimental illustratiohs, belonging 
to his department, are pr^esented to the 
class. 

The ticket of each Pr(^fessor is $15; 
and all persons who have attended 
two full Courses, at this School, are 
entitled to attend succeeding Courses 
free of expense. 

The requisites for graduation are 
similar to those required in the most! 
respectable institutions in the country, j 
The candidate must have studied 31 
years under the direction of some re-j 
gular physician. He^ijfnust have at- i 
tended each Professor tWo full Cour- 
ses, or he shall have attended one full 
Course in this School, and one in] 
some other respectable medical insti-| 
tution. He must have entered his 
name with the Dean as a candidate 
for graduation, and delivered to him 
ah inaugural dissertation on some 
medical subject, 30 d^ys before the 
close of the session. 

The lectures commences on the 1st 
Monday in November, and continue 
till the last of February. The fee for 
the lectures on each branch, is $15 or 
90 for the whole Course; — the ma- 
triculating fee $5; — ^giKidualing fee 
$20. 

The " Colu niblaii LatUiite,''' for the 

promotion of the Arts and Sciences, 

was formed at Washington in 1816, 

and incorpoiated by Congiess in 

64 



1818. It consists of 5 Classes, viz. 
Mathematical Science, Physical Sci- 
ence, Moral and Political Science, 
General Literature and the fine arts. 
The annual meetings are held on the 
last Saturday in each year. 

There are 3 Banks, — the Bank of 
Washington, — capital $470, 120, — 
The Bank of the Metropolis, — ca- 
pital $500,000, and the Patriotic 
Bank, — capital $250,000. There are 
19 houses of public worship, 3 Cath- 
olic, 4 Episcopalian, 3 Methodist, 4 
Baptist, 1 Unitarian and 1 Friends', 
also 2 public free schools, and a great 
many other well conducted schools, 
where the usual branches of education 
are taught, as Avell as the dead Lan- 
guages and Mathematics. Schools for 
young ladies, arc also established in 
various parts of the city; and there is 
1 orphan asylum, constituted in 1815, 
a colonization society (the mother) in- 
stituted in 1817; 6 well organized 
fire companies and a Masonic Lodge. 
Regular lines of .steam-boats ply fiotn 
Washington to A lexandria, Baltimore, 
Norfolk, &:c., and numerous stages run 
to other places, — among which are 8 
daily coaches to Baltimore. The 
territory now Washington was form- 
erly a part of Prince George Co. 
Md. and Avas ceded to the United 
States in 1790. In 1800 it became 
the seat of government, and 1802 was 
incorporated as a city. In 1812 it 
j was remodelled, and finally chartered 
in 1815. The government is com- 
posed of a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 
a common Council of 18 members; 
those are elected by the citizeny, the 
latter fur 1, and the Mayor and Al- 
dermen for 2 years. 

The Navy Yard in thivS city was 
established and organized by the' act 
of Congress, approved 27th March, 
1804. It contaiiib wilhiii its limits 
about 28 acres; and is enclosed- by 
a high brick v/all, with an entrance 
from the north, through an avchad 
gateway, on each side of which are 
accommodations for the m.uimj oflicr-i 



m 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



and guard, attached to the Yard.- The^ 
buildings for the officers are cormno- 
dious, — and appropriate, quarters for 
the Commandant, Master Com- 
mandant, Lieutenant, Sailing Master, 
Surgeon and Boatswain : for store 
houses, shops, &c. and a Navy Store, 
with a sail loft in the second story ; 
iron store, with a rigging loft in the 
second story; Commandant's, and 
other oflices ; labratory for the pre- 
paration ol ordinance fixtures and 
stores, in the second story of which is 
•a beautiful and well arranged armory. 
An armorer's shop for repairing 
•small arms ; an iron foundry ; a brass 
and composition foundry ; a chain ca- 
ble, and caboose shop ; an anchor 
shop, smithery and plumber's shop ; a 
block maker's shop, a saw mill, and 
-■rooms for machinery work, &c. 2 tim- 
ber sheds on arched columns, one 
with a joiner's shop, and the other 
with a mould loft in the second story; 
2 ship houses over foundations, and 
ways for buildings and launching 
ships of any size. All the buildings 
are large and of substantial construc- 
tion, and afford every convenience for 
building and equipping vessels for 
sea. There is in the Yard a fresh 
•water dock for seasoning timber, &-c. 
For the purposes of the Navy there 
are some valuable manufactories es- 
tablished in the Yard; and for it gen- 
erally, are made anchors, cham ca- 
bles, cabooses, blocks, ordnance fix- 
tures, and stores of e"V€;ry kind; brass 
and composition . castings, &c. To 
facilitate the operations in the manu- 
facture of these articles, much labor- 
saving machinery has been erected: 
the principal of which is a steam en- 
gine, computed of 14 horse power, by 
which there is kept in continual mo- 
tion 489 feet of shafts, w-ith their or- 
dinary wheels, drums, ifcc. to the 
weight of 40 tons, 8 cwt., 1 qr. lbs. 

By power derived from the opera- 
tion of the above shafts, a requisite 
power and motion is conveyed to two 



saw gateSj each capable of receiving 
and working any number of saw^ 
sufficient for converting a log to any 
dimensions by one passage throu^k 
the gate. Two hammers for forging 
anchors, &c. 2 large hydraulic bet- 
lows, 2 circular saws, 1 turning and 
boring lathe, which when required; 
can be converted into a machine for 
boring steam engine cylinder^; 9 
turning lathes, 5 grind stones, 4 drill 
lathes for boring sheaves, <Slc. .with 
other machinery, required to facilitatfe 
the operations of the several depart- 
ments in the adjoining buildings. 

There is also, situated in the S. E. 
corner of the Yard, a machine for 
proving rope and chain cables ; the 
mechanical force of which is so pow- 
erful, that two men can part a cable 
suitable for a ship of the largest size. 
Considerable as a strain must be, suf- 
ficient to part a 24 inch cable, (or a 
strain of 100 tons,) such is the accura- 
cy of the operation of the indeXi ihitt 
tvio ounces thrown into the scale sus- 
pended from the end of the lever, will 
sensibly affect the index, thereby af- 
ording an opportunity of calculating 
the strainon the cable with the great- 
est precision. 

About a mile above the Yard is a 
large powder magazine, and a ware- 
house for the storage of salt petre, &'c. 

There is generally employed in the 
Yard for the manufactories, and as 
laborers, about 200 men ; when ships 
are building or repairing, the number 
is proportionably increased by the 
employment of carpenters, caulkers, 
boat-builders, mast makers, gun car- 
nage makers, sail makers, coopers, 
&o. The Yard is beautifully situat- 
ed on the right bank of the Eastei;n 
branch ; the channel of which affords 
an easy navigation for small frigates, 
sloops of war, &c. 

The United States' Arsenal 
is situated at the southern extremity 
of the city, on the point ot land form- 
ed by the junction of the Potomac and 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



507 



4-nacostia rivers. This position, be- 
ing at the head of ship. navigation — 
at the seat of government — and cen- 
jtTal in a national point of view, was 
selected in 1804, as a favorable site 
for an Arsenal, intended for the man- 
ufacture and depository of Military 
iStores. For these purposes it was 
exclusively devoted until 1812: when 
immediately after the declaration of 



Captain Frazer, acting Adjutant Gert- 
eral of the British army. • 

In the autumn of 1814, the work 
shops were rebuilt; and the manufac- 
ture and preparation of army supplies 
went on as before. In 1816 a large 
store house and officers' quarters 
were erected, forming the north frent 
of the fort. In 1823-24, the garrison 
was withdrawn — the ramparts re- 



war with England, strong batteries moved, and permanent buildings ex- 
were erected on the sides, approacha-clusivel}' for Arsenal purj)oses erected 
t)le by water, both, to pi'otect the Arse- on the same ground, making, with 
nal and guard the river channels lead- those built in 1816, the four sides of 
ing to the Navy Yard and other parts ja rectangular parallelogram. Ac- 
-of the city. From this time, the place cording . to present arrangements, 
was known by tlie name Fort Wa.sh-ithf-'re are two buildings for the depq- 
ton; notwithstanding its entire wantlsiteef muskets, rifles, pistols, swords 
of defence on the land side; which and other small arms; 3 for the dwel- 
■xnade it necessary, after the British 'lings of officers and artificers; and 4 
•army had entered Washington, for large work shops, besides other 
the American troops to vacate it. — 'smaller buildings. One-ofthe shops 
This was done during the night of^contains a steam engine which drives 
the 24th of August, 1814, after burn-lvarious machines, made use of in re- 
"Ing the work shops and removing as;pairing small amis, and in manufac- 
much property as time would permit. 'turiiig artillery carriages. Of the 
The next morning a detachment of latter, a considerable number are an- 
500 British troops marched to the nualh'^ made at the place— -mostly' for 
fort, and commenced the destruction jthe use of the militia. ■ -• ■ 

of wnatever had been left in a ser-l The Arsenal contains many^'thott- 
viceable state. Among other things. 'sand arms, consisting of all the usual 
were a number of 18 pounder guns, varieties. They are neatly arranged 
left by the garrison in the haste of in open frames, and being kept in per- 
departure, mounted in battery and un- feet order, present an imposing ap- 
spiked — these they attempted to des- ;pearance. Forty thousand -soldiers 
troy by discharging one against the^can be full}- armed and equipped at 
trunnion of another ; but, most unfor- ;an hour's notice. On the plain in 
tunately for the operators, the first ^ front of the Arsenal, are 85.5 pieces of 
•'piece discharged happened to be jordnance.includingcannon, howitzers 
pointed in the direction of a well near iand mortars of various calibres. — 
by, into which, some of the waddingJAmong them are seen trophies of the 
of the gun was thrown by the dis-lateand revolutionary wars.capturedat 
charge ; this communicated fire to a Bennington, Saratoga, Yorktown and 
large quantity of powder, previously jBridgewater. 

placed there by the garrison to pre-j There is also a cannon, relick of 
vent its falling into the hands of theithe revolutionary contest, made in 
enemy, and a tremendous explosion ! Virginia of hammered iron. It bears 
was the immediate consequence ; by 'the name of "Queen of France," 
which one half of the 500 m^n, Avholwhich was marked upon it at that Re- 
entered the place 30 minutes before, iriod. - 
•with all the pride'and hilarity result-; The geological formation of the 
ing from victory, were killed and j Arsenal grounds, does not differ from 
wx>und€d. Among the killed, was a other parts of the city. From the 



608 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



surface there is an q^verag-e of 10 feet. [building the public edifices at Wash- 



in depth of ferruginous clay, resting 
on alternate horizontal strata of sand 
and gravel, in which are found de- 
tached parcels of bog iron ore. 

The following statement of expen- 
ditures, (by the United States) in 
Washington, to January 1st, 1830, 
includes the entire expenses of re- 
Prior to 1816. 
Purchase of ground for public purposes, 
Purchase of stone quarries. 
Surveying and marking boundaries, 
Opening and improving streets, - 
Bridges over Rock, Tiber and James' Creeks, 
Building wharfs, . . . . - 

Building sheds for workmen, 
pigging canal from James to Tiber creek, - 
Interest on loans, commissions, &c. 
Salaries, &c. ... - - 

Capitol, &LC. 
Prior to burning iii August, 1814, 
From 1814 to January 1, 1830, 
Temporary Committee rooms, - 
Enclosing the square, . . - - 

Alterations in the Capitol, . . = 

Graduating and improving the square, 
Allegorical clock, ... - 
Furnishing committee rooms in centre building, 

President's House, &c. 
Prior to burning in August, 1814, 
From 1314 to January 1, 1830, 
Alterations, - . . . . 

Covering the roof, - ... - 

Erecting walls and gates, - 

Graduating and improving the square, 

Offices. 
Prior to burning in August, 1814, 
From 1814 to January, 1830, - 

Contingencies between 1814 and 1820, 

Engine Houses, Engines, &c. 

Paved footways, ..... 

Purchase of part of the City Hall, for Court, &-c. 

Purchase of square 249, for water, 

Jail of Washington County, 

Jail of Alexandria County, 

Penitentiary of the District, 

Total, 



ington, Avhich were destroyed by fire 
in 1814. The building of jails for 
Alexandria county and Washington 
county, — the purchase of a C. H. for 
Washington county, — the erection of 
a United States' Penitentiary, and a 
variety of other items, not chargable 
to the sales of city lots. 



38,697.92 

30,225.31 

67,469.76 

33,646.82 

15,041.99 

9,130.17 

4,681.23 

5,670.61 

165,533.93 

119,906.65 



788,071.28 

1,704,250.27 

2,771.96 

71,602.57 

5,507.84 

20,716.99 

2,000.00 

3,579.30 



333,207.04 

300,072.37 

1,945.63 

5,405.32 

5,887.73 

19,009.51 



93,013.82 
268,850.68 



15,673.02 

12,917.37 

9,064.04 

10,000.00 

1,246.94 

4,746.20 

11,186.03 

76,127.23 



490,004.39 



2,590,500.21 



- 665,527.60 



— 361,865.50 



140,960.83 

$4,254,858.53 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



509 



Washingtox County is bounded 
N. W. and N. by Monifgomery Co. 
Md.,— N. E. by Prince George's Co. 
Md., — S. E. by the Eastern branch of 
Potomac, and S. W. by the main 
stream of Potomac. In form it ap- 
proaches a parallelogram, 8 ms. in 
length from S. E. to" N. W. ; mean 
]brea4th 54: ms. ; area 42 sq. ms. or 
42-lOOths of the Avhole district, ex- 
tending in lat. from 38° 51', to 38° 
58' nearly, and in lonsf. from 0° G' 6" 
E. to 0° 03' W. the^Capital The 
surface of this Co. is very finely di- 
versified by hill and dale. Rock 



States and foreign powers; and cor- 
responds ofTicially with the public 
JMinisters of the United States at Fo- 
reign Courts, and with the Ministers 
of Foreign Powers resident in the 
United States. — He performs, also 
the main duties of what, in other Go- 
vernraents, is called the Home De- 
partment. — Salary, $G,000. 

The office of Secretary of the 
Treasvri/ was created by act of the 
•2d of September, 1789. 'He superin- 
tends all the fiscal concerns of the 
Government, and, upon his own re- 
ponsibility, recommends to Congress 



creek enters near the northern angle, measures for improving the condition 
and meanderinof in a areneral direc-lof the revenue. He holds his office 



tion from N. to S., enters Potomac 
between the city of Washington and 
Georgetown. The slope of the whole 
county is indeed from N. to S., and 
the descent very rapid. The soil 
generally thin, though some favora- 
ble exceptions exist. Exclusive of 



at the will of the President; is, by 
usage, a member of the Cabinet; and, 
ex-officio, one of the Commissioners 
of the Sinking Fund. — Salary, $6,- 
000. 

Accounts of the government are fi- 
nally settled at the Treasury Depart- 



W. C. and Georgetown, it contained i meat: fot which purpose it is divided 



in 1830 a population of 2,994. The 
entire population of the two cities 
and the county, was in 1830, 30,262. 
The Civil List of the United 
States, though relating rather to the 
whole Union, than particularly to the 
District of Columbia, is a matter of 
such general interest, that w^e will in- 
sert it here : 

CIVIL LIST, 
Shelving the nature and extent of the 
duties oj each officer of the Gene- 
ral Government of the V. States, 
■uiid their salaries — ivith the num- 
ber of clerks cjnployed in each de- 
partment, and the aggregate 
amount of their salaries. 
The Department of State was cre- 
ated by the act of 15th September, 
1798. Previously to that period, by 
act of 27th July, 1789, it was denomi- 
nated the Department of Foreign Af 
fairs. The Secrtary, is ex-officio, a 



into the office of the Secretary, (who 
superintends the whole, but who is 
not therefore, absolute, with respect to. 
the power of adjusting claims or of 
paying money:) into two Comptrol- 
lers, five Auditors, a Register, and a 
Treasurer. 

The First Coviftr oiler examines 
all accounts settled by the First and 
Fifth Auditors, and certifies the bal- 
ances arising thereon to the Register, 
countersigos. all AAarrants drawn by 
the Seceretary of the Treasury, if 
warranted by law ; reports to the Se- 
cretary the official forms to be used 
in the different ofilces for collecting 
the public revenue; and the manner 
and form of keeping and stating the 
accounts of the several persons em- 
ployed therein. He superintends the 
preservation of the public accounts 
subject to his revision, and provides 
for the regular payment of all mo- 



Commissioner of the Sinking Fund, neys Avhich may be collected. — Sala- 
and, by usage, a member of the Ca- ry, §3,500. 

binet. He conducts the negotiation,! l^\\e Second Comptroller examiues 
of all treaties between the United {all accounts settled by the Second, 



510 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 



Third, and Fourth Auditors, certifies 
the balances to the Secretary of the 
Department in which the expenditure 
has been incurred; countersigns all 
requisitions drawn by the Secretaries 
of the War and Navy Departments, 
warranted by law; reports to the Se- 
cretaries the official forms to be used 
in the different offices for distributing 
the public money in those Depart- 
ments, and the manner and form of 
keeping and stating the accounts of 
the persons employed therein. It is 
also his duty to superintend the pre- 
servation of the public accounts sub- 
ject to his revision. — Salary, $3,000. 

The First At/ dito)- receives all ac- 
counts accruing in the Treasury De- 
partment, and in relation to the reve- 
nue and the civil list; and, after exa- 
jnination certifies the balance, and 
transmits the accounts, with the vouch- 
ers and certificates, to the First Comp- 
troller, for his decision thereon. — Sal- 
ary, $3,000. ■ "**'■.■ • 

The Second Auditor recei-fes and 
settles all accounts for the pay and 
clothing of the Army, subsistence of 
pffjcers, bounties, and premiums, Me- 
.dical and Hospital Department, and 
National Armories, armingand equip- 
ping the militia, Ordnance Depart- 
ment, Indian Department, Purchas- 
ing Department, the contingent ex- 
penses of the War Depajiment, and 
all store accounts growing out of the 
foregoing. He examines the arcormts, 
certifies the balances, and transmits 
the acf-'ounts with the vouchers and 
certificates, to the Second (Comptrol- 
ler, for his decision upon ibcm. — Sal- 
ary, $3,000. 

The Third Andilnr receives all ac- 
counts relative to the subsistence of 
the Army, the Quartermaster's De- 
partment, and generally all account.^ 
of the War Department, other than 
those referred to the Second Auditor, 
He examines the accounts, certifies 
the balances, and transmits the ac- 
counts, with the vouchers and certifi- 
cates to the ■Second Comptroller for 



his decision upon them. — Salary! 
$3,000. 

The Fourth Auditor receives all 
accounts accruing in the Navy- De- 
partment, or relative to it. He ex&i- 
mines th<^ accounts, certifies the bal- 
ances, and transmits the accounts witli 
the vouchers and certificate, to the 
Second Comptroller, for his decision 
upon them. — Salary, $3,000. 

The Fifth Auditor receives all ac- 
counts accruing in, or relative to, the 
Department of State, the General Po§t 
Office, and those arising out of Indian 
Trade, examines them, certifies the 
balances, and transmits the accounts 
with the vouchers and certificate, to 
the First Comptroller for his decision 
upon them. To the Fifth Auditor, 
also, has been assigned the duties of 
Commissioner of the Revenue, which 
are considerable, embracing a super- 
intendence of the light house estab- 
lishment, and a correspondence Avith, 
and superintendenee over,. the &6ll^- 
tors of the direct tax and internal re- 
venue.— Salary, $3,000. 

To this office has been assigned by 
the President also, the duty of agent 
of the Treasury, under the act of 15th 
May, 1820, for conducting all suits at 
law, in Avhich the United States are 
concerned. 

The Treasurer receives and l5:eeps 
the money of the United States, and 
disburses the same upon warrants 
drawn by the Secretary of the Trea- 
sury, countersigned by the proper 
Comptroller and Auditor, and r«c<5w4- 
ed by the Register.— Salary, $3,000. 

The Register of the Treorsury 
keeps all accounts of the receipts and 
expenditures of the public rriohey, 
and of all debts due to or from 'the 
United States; he keeps the District 
Tonnage Accounts of the United 
States; he receives from the Comp- 
trollers the accounts which have been 
finally adjusted, and, with their vouch- 
ers and certificates, preserves thetn; 
he records all warrants for the receipt 
or payment of moneys at the Treasu- 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



511 



ry, certifies the same thereon, and; 
transmits to the Secretary of the 
Treasury copies of the certificates of 
balances of accoiints adjusted. By 
an act of the 10th February, 1S20, it 
15. made the duty of the Register of 
the Treasury, to prepare statistical 
accounts of the commerce of the Unit- 
ed States, to be laid before Congress. 
— Salary, $3,000. 

The War Departmenl was created 
by act of 7th August, 1789. The 
Secretary of War, at first, had the su- 
perintendence of Naval Affairs. On 
the 30th of April, 1798, however, a 
separation took place, and a Navy 
Department was established. The 
Secretary of War superintends every 
branch of the military department: 
and is, by usage, a member of the 
cabinet. He holds his office at the 
will of the President. Attached to 
the War Department, and under the 
immediate direction of the Secretary, 
are 'an Engineer Office, an Ordnance 
Office, an Office for the Commissary- 
General of Subsistence, a Paymas- 
ter General's Office, a Surgeon Gene- 
ral's Office, a Bounty Land Office, 
and a Pension Bureau. All these 
offices, together with the Head-Quar- 
ters of the Commanding General, 
(Major General Macomb,)' and the 
Adjutant General's and (Quartermas- 
ter General's Offices, are located at 
Washington. — Sa ary, $6,000. 

The office of Secretan/ of the Na- 
vy Avas created by act of the 30th of 
April, 1,798. He issues all orders to 
the Navy of the United States, and 
superintends the concerns of the Na- 
val Establishment generally. A 
Board of Navy Commissioners was 
instituted by act of 7th February, 
1815, to aid him in the discharge of 
his duties. The Secretary of the 
Navy is, by usage, a member of the 
cabinet, and holds his office at the will 
of the President. — Salary, $6,0U0. 

General Post Office.— This De- 
partment is under the superintendence 
of a Post Master General, who is aid- 



ed in the discharge of his duties by 
two Assistants. He has the sole ap- 
pointment of all Postmasters through- 
out the United States; the making of 
all contracts for carrying the mails; 
and, in short, the control, according 
to law, for every thing relating to the 
institution. Since the commencement 
of President Jackson's administra: 
tion, he is a member of the-cabineL-^ 
Salary, $6,000. 

Board of Commissioners for Ike 
Navy. — This Board was established 
by act of 7th of February, 1815. It 
consists of three Captains of the Na- 
vy, in rank not below that of a Post 
Captain. The Board is by laAV, at- 
tached to the office of the Secretary 
of the Navy, and under his superin- 
tendence; discharges all the ministe- 
rial duties of that office relative to 
the procurement of naval stores and 
materials, and the construction, arma- 
ment, equipment and employment of 
vessels of war, as well as other mat- 
ters connected with the Naval Estab- 
lishment of the United States." 

The number of Clerks employed 
in the State Department, including 
those in the patent office, Avith three 
messengers, are 20^-— whose joint sala- 
ries amount to $22,000. 

In the Treasury Department there' 
are employed ten clerks with one 
messenger. — Their joint salaries are' 
$13,750. 

In the Fii;st,:.^mptrollcr's Office 
there are employed fifteen clerks with 
one messenger — whose joint salaries 
amount to $18,450. 

In the Second Comptroller' .s there 
are employed eight clerks, Avith one 
messenger-^their joint salaries a- 
mount to $10,300. 

In the First Auditor's Office there 
are employed eleven clerks, with one 
messenger — whose salaries amount 
to $13,000. 

In the Second Auditor's Office there 
are employed fourteen clerks — whose 
joint salaries amount to $16,350. 

In the Third Auditor's Office there 



512 



ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER OF 



are employed sixteen clerks, with one 
Iriessenger — whose joint salaries a- 
mount to $20,G00. 

In the Fourth Auditor's Office there 
are employed fifteen clerks — whose 
joint salaries amount to $17,050. 

In the Fifth Auditor's Office there 
are employed twelve clerks — whose 
joint salaries amount to $14,400. 

In the Treasurer's Office there are 
employed five clerks — whose joint 
salaries amount to $6,050. 

In the Register's Office there are 
employed twenty clerks, with two 
messengers, whose joint salaries a- 
mount to $23,500. 

Commissioner General of the Land 
Office, with a salary $3,000.— In this 
office there are employed eighteen 
clerks, Avith one messenger — their 
joint salaries being $20,150. 

In the War Department, there are 
employed fifteen clerks, with one 
messenger whose joint salaries are 
$19,850. 

In the Adjutant General's Office 
are employed two clerks — their joint 
salaries being $2,950. 

In the Paymaster General's Office 
there are employed three clerks and 
one messenger — their joint salaries 
being $4,600. 



In the Ordnance Department there 
are employed three clerks — whose 
salaries amount to $2,950. 

In the Surgeon General's Office, 
there are employed one clerk with a 
salary of $1,150. 

In the Quartermaster General's 
Office there are emploj-ed two clerks 
— their joint salaries being $2,150. 

In the Navy Department there are 
employed seven clerks, whose salaries 
amount to $9,400. 

There are three Navy Commis- 
sioners, whose joint salaries amount 
to $10,500. The Secretary's salary 
is $2,000. In this office are employ- 
ed six clerks — their joint salaries 
amounting to $6,750 — also a Drafts- 
man, whose salary is $1,000, and a 
Messenger at $700. 

There are two Navy Constructors, 
whose salaries amount to $5,300, and 
a Naval Storekeeper — at $1,700 per 
annum. 

Besides the General Postmaster 
there are two Assistant Postmaster 
Generals, whose .salaries amount to 
$5,000— and in the General Post Of- 
fice there are employed forty-four 
clerks and one messenger — whose 
salaries aniouiit lo 40,200. 



Addenda lo the Gazetteer of Virginia a^ul District of Columbia. 

CONGRESSIONAL. DISTRICTS OF VA. 

E>Y an act of Assembly, 1833, the counties and towns of this state were 

divided into 21 Congressional Districts, in the manner following, to wit: 

District 1st — Contains the counties of Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nanse- 

mond, borough of Norfolk, Elizabeth City, and Ise of 

Wight. 

»' 2d — Is composed of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince 

George, Greensville and the town of Petersburg. 
" 3d — Is composed of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Goochland 

and Nottoway. 
" 4th — Is composed of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and 

Dinwiddie. 
" 5th — Is composed of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Buckingham 

and Cumberland. 
. " 6th — \i coujposed of Camplnll, Halilax, and Pittsylvania. 

*• 7lh — Is compoL^cd of Franklin, Bedford, Patrick and Henry. 



VIRGINIA AND DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 613 

District 8th — Is composed of York, Mathews, James City, Gloucester, 
Warwick, Accomac, Northampton and the i/ity of Wil- 
liamsburg. 

" 9th — Is composed of Essex, Caroline, King and Queen, King 
William and Middlesex. 

" 10th — Is composed of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Nor- 
thumberland, King George, Stafford and Prince William. 
11th — Is composed of Henrico, Charles Citj', Hanover, City of 
Richmond and New Kent. 

" 12th — Is composed of Albemarle, Nelson, Fluvanna, Louisa and 
Amherst. 

" 13th — Is composed of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahantiock, 
Madison and Orange. 

" 1 4th — Is composed of Loudoun, Fauquier and Fairfax. 

" I5th — Is composed of Morgan, Jefferson, Berkley, Hampshire and 
Frederick. 

16th — Is composed of Rockingham, Shenandoah, Page, Hardy, Pen- 
dleton and Bath. 

" 17th — Is composed of Rockbridge, Augusta, Alleghany, Botetourt, 
Montgomery and Floyd. 

" 18th — Is composed of Wythe, Washington. Grayson, Scott, Lee, 
Smyth, Tazewell and Russell. 
10th — Is composed of Fayette, Nicholas, Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles, 

Logan, Kanawha and Cabell 
20th — Is composed of Harrison, L^wis, Wood, Mason, Jackson, 

Randolph and Pocahontas. 
21st — lo composed of Monongalia, Preston, Tyler, Ohio and 
Brooke. 



ELE:CTORALi BISTHICTS. 

By act o{ Assembly, 1833, this state was divided into twenty-three Elec- 
toral Districts-^to provide for the appointment of Electors to choose a Pre- 
sident and Vice-President of the United States, and are as follov;s, viz : 
District 1st — Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nansemond, the borough of Nor- 
folk, Elizabeth City and the Isle of Wight, shall form one 
district. 
2d — The counties of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince George, 
Greensville, and the town of Petersburg, shall form another 
district. 
3d — The counties of Po^-hatan, Am.elia, Chesterfield, Goochland 

and Nottovay, shall form another district. 
4th — Ths counties of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and 

Dinwiddle, shall form another district. 
5th— The conr.tieo of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Euckir^gham, 

Cumberland and Fluvanna, shall form sncthsr district. 
6th — The counties of Halifax, Carapbeil and Bedford, shall form 
another district 
" 7th — The counties of Pittsylvania, Franklin, Henry and Patrick, 
shall foini another district. 
65 



514 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. 

District 8th— The counties of York, Mathews, James City, Gloucester, 
Warwick, Accomack and Northampton, shall form another 
district. 
9th — The counties of King & Q,uceu, King William, Essex, Ca- 
roline and Middlesex, shall form another district. 
" i(jtix — The counties of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Nor- 
thumberland, King George, Stafford and Prince William, 
shall form another district. 
1 ith — The counties of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, New Kent, 

and the City of Richmond, shall form another district. 
I2th — The counties of Albemarle, Nelson, Louisa and Amherst, 
shall form another district. 
" 13th — The counties of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock, 
Madison and Orange, shall form another district. 
' " 1 4th — The counties of Fauquier, Loudoun and Fairfax, shall form 
another district. 
" loth — The counties of Jefferson, Berkley, Morgan and Hampshire 

shall form another district. 
" i(3th — The counties of Frederick, Shenandoah and Page, shall form 

another district. 
" 17th — The counties of Hardy, Preston, Randolph, Pendleton and 

Rockingham, shall form another district. 
" ISlh— The counties of Augusta, Rockbridge, Bath and Alleghany, 
shall form another district. ' 
19th — The coonties ,of Greenbrier, Nicholas, Pocahontas, Fayette 
and Monroe, shall form another district. 
" 20th — The counties of Botetourt, Giles, Montgomery, Grayson, 

Floyd and Wythe, shall form another district. 
" 21st — The counties of Washington, Tazewell, Russell, Scott, Lee 

and Smyth, shall form another district. 
" 22d — The counties of Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Logan, Lewis, 

Harrison and Jackson, shall form another district. 
" 23d — The counties of Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, Monongalia and Wood, 
shall form another district. 
2. Be it further enacted. That the elections for president and vice-presi- 
dait of the United States shall be held and conducted in all respects, accord- 
ing to the provisions of the said act to provide for the appointment of elec- 
tors to choose a president and vice-president of the United States, passed at 
the last session of the general assembly : Provided only, That the voters 
in said elections shall each vote for twenty -three electors, which number 
shall be oomposed of one person from each electoral districts, as arranged 
by this act. 

^.' Be it further enacted, That if the executive of this commonwealth 
shall fail to appoint commissioners to conduct the electron of electors of pre- 
sident and vice-president within any county or corporation of this common- 
Avealth, or if no one of the said commissioners so appointed, should attend 
at the time and place prescribed by law, then it shall and may be lawful for 
any two justices of the peace of the county within which the election is to 
be holden, to conduct the said election, and to make returns thereof in the 
same manner as if they had been regularly appointed and commissioned 
for that purpose by the executive of this commonwealth: Provided, how- 
ever, That the said justices of the peace shall take the oath prescribed by 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 5ir» 

law for commissioners appointed by the executive for conducting such elec- 
tion, before they shall be authorized to perform the duties prescribed by this 
act. 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 

"The election of delegates, and of the eight senators for one of the four 
classes of senatorial districts, in the room of those who will be annually dis- 
placed, shall be held in the several counties, cities, towns and boroughs on 
their respective court days in the month of April of every future year. 

2. No elector shall vote more than once for any senator in the same district, 
at any one election. 

3. Every white male citizen of this commonwealth resident therein, aged 
twenty-one years and upwards (other than such as have refused to give as- 
surance of fidelity to the commonwealth) being possessed, or whose tenant 
for years, at will or at sufferance is possessed of twenty-five acres of land, 
with a house, the superficial content of the foundation whereof is twelve feet 
square, or equal to that quantity, and a plantation thereon ; or fifty acres of 
unimproved land; or a lot or part of a lot of land in a city or town estab- 
lished by act of general assembly, with a house thereon of the like super- 
ficial content or quantity, having in such land an estate of freehold at the 
least, and (unless the title shall have come to him by descent, devise, mar- 
riage ar marriage settlement) having been so possessed six months, shall be 
qualified to vote for delegates to serve in general assembly, for the county, 
city, town, borough or election district respectively, in which the land lieth. 
If the fifty acres of land, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, the 
holder shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth 
only; and if the twenty-five acres of land, being one entire parcel lie in sev- 
eral counties, the holder shall vote in that county wherein the house stand- 
eth only. In right of land held by parceners, joint tenants, or tenants in 
common, qualified to exercise the right of suffrage according to the former 
constitution and laws, but one vote shall be given by all the holders capable 
of voting, who may be present, and agree to vote for the same candidate or 
candidates, unless the quantity of land, in case partition had been made 
thereof, be sufficient to entitle every holder present to vote separately ; or 
unless some one or more of the holders may lawfully vote in right of another 
estate or estates in the same county ; in which case, the others may vote, if 
holding solely, they might have voted, 

4. Every white male citizen of the commonwealth, resident therein, aged 
twenty-one years and upwards, being qualified to exercise the right of suf 
frage, according to the fourteenth section of the third article of the constitu- 
tion, shall be qualified to vote for members of the general assembly, in the 
manner therein prescribed. If the land in the said constitution mentioned 
and referred to, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, and be in- 
sufficient in value to entitle the person interested therein to vote in all the 
said counties, such person, whether he be possessed of an estate of freehold 
or leasehold; whether he be tenant in common, joint tenant or parcener, 
shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth only, 
and any citizen claiming the right to vote, in consequence of being entitled 
to a reversion, or vested remainder in fee, expectant on an estate for life or 



516 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. 

liv^s, in land, which, being one entire parcel, may happen to lie in several 
counties, and be insufficient in value to entitle such citizen to vote in all the 
said counties, shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land 
lieth only. In case of two or nriore tenants in common, joint tenants or par- 
ceners, in possession, reversion or remainder, having an interest in land, 
the value whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, and who. 
not being qualified to exercise the right of sutiVage, according to the former 
constitution and laws, have had that right conferred upon them by the pre- 
sent constitution, their vote or votes shall in such case be given in manner 
following, th«t is to say: if the value of land be sufficient to entitle them to 
one vote only, the same shall be given by all the said tenants in common, 
joint tenants or parceners, capable of voting, wlio may be present, and agree 
to vote for the same candidate or candidates. If the value of the land be suf- 
ficient to entitle them to more than one vote, the votes to which they are en- 
titled, shall be given by all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or par- 
ceners, capable of voting, who may be present, and agree as to the candi- 
date or candidates to whom the said votes shall be given. No one of any 
number of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, shall give 
more than one vote at the same election ; nor shall any greater number of 
votes be given by such tenants in common, joint tentants or parceners, than 
the value of the undivided land held by them may entitle them to give, ac- 
cording to the constitution. When a vote or votes shall have been given as 
aforesaid, by such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, the whole 
of the said ten^^nts in common, joint tenants and parceners, not having been 
present, and not having agreed to the said vote or votes, if he or they, who 
were absent at the giving of the said vote or votes, should afterwards appear 
at the said election, before the taking of the votes is at an end, and to the of- 
ficer conducting the said election, object to the said votes as given, the same 
shall be stricken from the poll. When an election shall be held at differ- 
ent places in the same county, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or 
parceners, entitled to only one vote, shall be polled at different places, and 
for a different candidate or candidates, their votes shall be stricken from the 
poll. When an election shall be held at different places in the same coun- 
ty, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, entitled to give 
more votes than one, shall c;ive their votes at different places, and in oppo- 
sition to each other, the said voles shall be stricken from the poll, if it shall 
appear that all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, did 
not agree, before such votes were polled, to whom they should be given. 
In case of two or more of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parce- 
ners in possession, reversion or remainder, having interest in land, the va- 
lue whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, if some one or 
more of them may lawfully vote in right of another estate or estates in the 
same county, the others may vote in the same manner as if he or they, 
holding such other estate or estates in the same county, had no interest 
whatever in the undivded land belonging to the said tenants in common, 
joint tenants or parceners. 

5. If any person shall vote a second time at any election for members of 
general assembly ; or if any person shall claim and exercise the right of suf- 
frage, in consequence of having paid a part of the revenue of the common- 
wealth, with which he may have been, by his own procurement, fiilsely as- 
sessed; each and every such per.son shall, for his offence, forfeit and p.ay to 
the commonwealth, for the benefit of the literary fund, the sum of tliirtv three 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 517 

dollars thirty-three cents, recoverable by motion in the superior or inferior 
court of law held for the county, city, town or borough, in which the oflence 
is committed, in the name and on behalf of the president and directors of the 
literary fund, provided ten days notice shall have been given of such motion. 

6. Every elector going to, abiding at, and returning from, an election, 
shall be privileged from arrest one day for every twenty miles he shall ne- 
cessarily travel, exclusive of the day of election; and any process against- 
such elector, e.xecuted during such privilege, shall be void. 

7. And it shall be the duty of the sheriff or other officer conducting such 
election, not to eater on the poll the vote of any person who may offer tQ 
vote, unless he believes such person to be qualiiied to vote, or unless such 
person shall take an oath, which the said slieriff or othi'r otlicer conducting 
said election, is hereby authorised to administer, or make solemn affirma- 
tion before the said sheiifl' or other officer conducting the said election, in 
this form: "/, A. B. do swear, {or do solemnly affirm, as Ihc. case may be,\ 
that I do in my conscience believe myself to be duly qualified to vote for a 
delegate or delegates for the county, city, town, borough, or election district 
of , or for a senator for the district of which the county, city, toiv7i, 
borough, or election district of is a part, to serve in the general as-., 
sembly of this commaninealth : So help me God." Of which oath or affir- 
mation, a note shall be made iri the poll book opposite, and referring to, the 
name of the person swearing or affirming. The making such oath or af- 
firmation, or any other oath or afiirmation by this act required, falsely, shaH 
be perjury. 

8. In the case of an election ot a delegate or delegates for a county, cit5% 
town, or borough, the candidate or candidatrs appearing to have the greatest 
number of votes, shall be considered elected; or when the greatest numbev- 
of votes for several candidates, if it be an election of a delegate or delegates 
for a county, chy, town or borough, shall be equal to one another, the she^ 
riff or other officer who conducted the election at the courthouse, may and 
shall declare which of the candidates he will elect, notwithstanding his vot^ 
as an elector may have been previously entered on the poll. 

9. The officers conducting elections at the court-house of each county, 
city, town, or borough, within the senatorial districts of this commonwealth, 
shall meet at the times and places herein above directed, and from the said, 
polls of their respective counties, cities, towns, and boroughs, shall certify as 
the senator elected, the man who shall have the greatest number of votes in, 
the whole district; and if the greatest number of votes for several persons 
to be a senator be equal to one another, and the votes of the returning offi- 
cers be equal also, it sliall be decided by a lot taken by such returning offi- 
cers at their said meeting: a copy of which certificate shall be forthwith set 
up by them at the front door of the court-house of the county, city, town, or 
borough, at which their said meeting may be held, informing the public of 
the name of the senator elected in manner aforesaid; and another copy 
thereof shall be by them delivered to the clerk of the said county, city, town, 
or borough, to be by him safely kept and preserved in his office; and the 
said clerk shall suffer any candidate or elector, at any time, to take a copy 
thereof 

10. No elector shall be admitted to a poll a second time at one and the 
same election, although at the first time he shall not have voted for as many 
candidates as by law he might have voted for. If the electors, who appear, 
be so numerous, that they cannot all be polled before sun-setting, or if by 
rain or rise of water courses, many of the electors jyiay have been hindered 



CIS VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 

from attending-, the sherifl' or under sherifl' or otlier proper officer conduct- 
ing such election at the court-house, and the superintendents of any sepa- 
rate poll, (if such cause shall exist at any separate poll, for tlie adjournment 
thereof,) may and shall, by request of any one or more of the candidates or 
their agents, adjourn the proceeding on the poll nntil the next day, and so 
from day to day, for three days, (Sundays excluded,) giving public notice 
thereof by proclamation, at the door of the court-house or other place of 
holding such election, and shall, on the last day of the election, conclude the- 
poll according tp the directions aforesaid; but if the poll to be held at any 
such election, is not closed on the first day, the same shall be kept open twa 
days thereafter. 

11. In all cases whatsoever, where by law the sheriffis directed to hold 
an election, jn case of the death of the said sheriff, or other officer, whose 
duty it shall be to conduct such election, or where there shall be no such 
officer, the senior magistrate, and in his absence, inability, or incapacity, by 
being a candidate, the second, and so in succession to the junior magistrate, 
is hereby authorised empowered and required to perform the duties of the 
sheriff, prescribed by law in similar cases. And if the mayor of any town, 
city or borough, entiile4 to representation in the general assembly, shall, by 
death or any other cause whatever, be unable to attend and conduct the 
election according to the provisions of this act, the recorder, or if there be 
po recorder, or he be unable to attend, the senior alderman capable of at- 
tending, shall attend and conduct such election according to law. 

12. On complaint to either house of assembly, of an undue election or re- 
turn of any member to theu* house, which complaint shall be lodged against 
such member within ten days after the meeting of the assembly, where the 
contested election shall have been held at the stated annual period, or within 
thirty days after the day on which the election shall have commenced, (if 
it be the election of a delegate,) or witliin thirty days after the day on which 
the last election in the senatorial district shall have commenced, (if it be the 
flection of a senator,) where such election shall have been held in conse- 
quence of an intermediate vacancy, and such house shall be in session, or if 
not in session, witliin twenty days after the meeting of the general assembly, 
such house shall forthwith appoint some day for trying the same, as shortly 
as shall be consistent with fair enquiry, whereof notice shall be given by 
the speaker to the party against whom the complaint is, if he be absent, 
which day of trial may be lengthened from time to time, on good cause 
shewn to the house, and notice to the absent party. On the day appointed 
for the trial, the committee of privileges and elections shall proceed in t^he" 
said disputed election, and report to the house of which they are members, 
their opinion thereon, before they proceed to any other business; and the 
said house shall, on receipt of the said report, immediately proceed to deter- 
mine thereon, and either confirm or disagree to such report, as to them 
shall seem just. If any person sworn before the said committee, shall give 
or withhold any evidence, under such circumstances as would have consti- 
tuted the same to be perjury, if done in the presence of a court of record, the 
same shall be deemed perjury. If upon such trial, in the case of a contest- 
ed election of a delegate, it shall appear that equal numbers of qualified 
electors shall have voted for the petitioner and the sitting member, and the 
officer who conducted the election at the court-house of the county, city, 
town, or borou'jfh, (if it be the election of a delegate from a county, city, 
town, or borough,) or a majority of the returning officers of the election district, 
(if it be the election of a delegate from an election district,) shall swear, or 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS; 519 

solemnly affirm, that if such eqtiality had appeared at the election in the 
former case, or at the time of their meeting to make the return in the latter 
case, he or they would have declared the petitioner elected, such petitioner 
shall be deemed duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the sitting 
member, (which shall be erased.) shall be inserted in the certificate of return; 
If upon such trial, in the case of a contested election of a senator, it shall 
appear that equal numbers of qualified electors shall have voted for the pe- 
titioner and the sitting member, and a majority of the officers who made the 
return upon such election, shall swear, or solemnly affirm^ that if such equa- 
lity had apiwared at the time of their meefmg to make the said return, they 
would have declared the petitioner elected, such petitioner shall be deemed 
duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the sitting member, 
(wliich shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return. 

13. The officers directed to make certificates of elections as aforesaid, 
shall cause them to be delivered, those of delegates, to the clerk of tne 
house of delegates, and those of senators, to the clerk of the senate, one day 
at least before the succeeding session of general assembly. 

14. For election of a delegate or senator, when a vacancy shall occur by 
death or resignation, during the recess of the general assembly, a writ or 
writs shall be issued by the governor: and in all other cases of vacancy, 
such writ or writs shall be issifed by the speaker of that house whereof he 
was a member; but if the vacancy be occasioned by acceptance of an office, 
the writ or writs shall not be issued without the special order of the house. 
And the officer or officers to whom such writ or writs shall be directed, so 
soon after the receipt thereof as he or they may he able, shall give to the 
electors notice thereof, as well as of the time and place of election, by ad- 
vertisement to be affixed ait four of the most convenient places in ihe county, 
city, town or borough, and shall cause the election to be made in the man- 
ner herein before prescribed, and shall have the same power of adjourning 
the proceeding upon the poll, as in case of a general election. 

15. Any person who shall be a candidate for any county, city, town, bo- 
rough, election district or senatorial district, to serve, if elected, in the gene- 
ral assembly, who shall, directly or indirectly, give or agree to give, any 
elector or pretended elector, money, meat, drink, or other rewa'rd, in order 
to be elected, or for having been elected, or who shall treat, directly or indi- 
rectly, being a candidate for such ot a'ny other county, city, town, borough,- 
or election district, or senatorial district, upon due proof thereof to either 
house, shall be expelled. Provided, nevertheless, That nothrng herein cort'- 
tained shall be so construed, as to prevent any candidate frovn his usual in- 
tercourse of friendship with his neighbors at his own house. 

16. If any sheriff or otiier officer condi!icting an election, shall, directly 
or indirectly, so interfere in the election of senators or delegates, as to shew 
partiality for any of the candidates, he shall forfeit and pay the sum of six 
hundred and sixty-six dollars sixty-six cents, to be recovered by bill, plaint 
or information,. >n any court of record, one moiety to the use of the inform- 
er, and the other to the use of the commonwealth, for the benefit of the lite- 
rary fund. 

17. All and every member and members of the general assembly are, 
and ought to be and forever shall be, in their persons, servants and estates, 
both real and personal, free, exempt and privileged from all arrests, attach- 
ments, executions, and all other process whatsoever, save only for treason, 
felony, or breach of the peace, during his or their attendance upon the gene- 



520 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. 

ral assembly, and one day before and after, for every twenty miles they must 
necessarily travel to or from home; and, in the mean time, process in which 
they are parties, shall be suspended without abatement or discontinuance; 
and, if any person taken in execution, be delivered by privilege of either 
house of the general assembly, so soon as such privilege ceaseth, he shall 
return himself a prisoner in execution, or be liable to an escape. 

18. Whereas, the freedom of speech and proceedings appertaineth cf 
right to the general assembly, and the preservation thereof is necessary to 
secure the liberty of the people: Be it enaclcd, That if any per- 
son shall arrest or prosecute, or be aiding or abetting in arresting and pro- 
secuting a member or m.embers of the senate or house of delegates, for or 
on account of any words spoken or written, any proposition made, or pro- 
ceedings had in the senate or house of delegates, every such person so of- 
fending, shall be deemed guiltj^ of a misdemeanor, and shall be apprehend- 
ed, committed and tried therefor, as in other cases of misdemeanors, before 
the general court, or a superior court of law of this commonwealth; and, 
being thereof convicted by the verdict of a jury, shall be adjudged to suffer 
imprisonment for a term not exceeding one year, and shall pay a fine not 
exceeding two thousand dollars; which imprisonment and fine shall be as- 
sessed by a jury. 

19. And if any member or members of the said senate or house of dele- 
gates, shall be arrested or imprisoned, for, or on account of any words, spo- 
ken or written, or for any proposition made, or proceedings had in the said 
senate or house of delegates, such member or members may apply to the 
general court, or a superior court of law, or any judge thereof in vacation, 
for a writ of habeas corpus, who are hereby empowered and required to 
issue the same, returnable before the said court, or said judge, or any other 
judge, and, upon the return thereof, to liberate and discharge such member 
or metnbers. 

20. The provisions of this act shall be extended to the arresting and pro- 
secuting any person or persons, for words spoken or written, or far any 
propositions made, or proceedings had in the said senate or house of dele- 
gates, and to the discharging and liberating any person or persons, hj habeas 
corpus, as aforesaid, although such person or persons shall, by disqualifica- 
tion, or from any other causes, have ceased to be a member of the said 
senate or house of delegates, at the time of such arrest or prosecuti&n, or 
of the trial, judgtnent, or imprioonment, in consequence thereof: Provided, 
That nothing herein contained shall, in any respect, extend to the pmver 
which either house of the general assembly now hath or may exercise'over 
their respective members 

21. Any person intending to contest the election of any other person, as 
a senator or delegate from any senatorial district, county, city, town or bo- 
rough, or election district, shall, within twenty-fiive days after the day on 
which the last election in the former case shall have commenced, or within 
fifteen days after the day on which the election (if it be the election of a 
delegate for a county, city, town or borough,) shall have com.menced, or 
within twenty days after the day on which the last election (if it be the elec- 
tion of a delegate for an election district,) shall have commenced, give to 
the person whose election he intends to contest, notice thereof in writing; 
and moreover, shall deliver to him, at the same tisne, a list of these persons 
to whose votes he hath objection, with the objecticn to each voter written 
opposite to his name, stating that the person objected to, is not qualified to 



VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 521 

vote according^ to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that he labors 
under some express personal disability, according to the provisions thereof, 
to exercise the right of suffrage; and where he hath any other objection 
to the legality of the election, or eligibility of the person whose election he 
intends to contest as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of such 
person, being founded upon his want of all, or any of the qualifications 
required by the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, 
distinguishing his particular objections; and the person whose election is 
contested as aforesaid, shall, within twenty days after receiving such notice, 
deliver the like lists on his part. 

22. Whensoever the election of any person as a senator or delegate, is 
intended to be contested, the petitioner and the returned member shall res- 
pectively begin to take their depositions within one month after the delivery 
of the notice in writing as aforesaid, given by the petitioner to the returned 
member, informing him as aforesaid, of his intention to contest his election ; 
and they shall finish taking the same at least thirty days preceding the com- 
mencement of the ensuing session of the general assembly. And where 
such contest shall arise in consequence of any return made, on any^writ or 
writs issued by the governor, or by the speaker of either house of the 
general assembly, to supply any vacancy which may have happened, the 
party contesting shall give notice in writing to the returned member of his 
intention to contest his election, and moreover shall deliver to him a list of 
those persons to whose votes he hath objection, with the objection to each 
voter written opposite to his name, stating that the person objected to is not 
qualified to vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that 
he labors under some express personal disabijiiy, according to the provi- 
sions thereof, to exercise the right of suffrage ; and if he have any other 
objection to the legality of the election, or the eligibility of the member 
returned as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of such member 
being founded upon his want of all or any of the qualifications required by 
the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, distinguish- 
ing his particular objections, within ten days after the last day on which 
votes shall have been taken in the said election; and the member returned 
as aforesaid, shall within five days after receiving such notice, deliver the 
like lists on his part. 

23. Notice in any of the cases before mentioned, as well as the lists left 
with his wife or any other free person over the age of twenty-one years, 
belonging to his family, other than a .negro or mulatto, or in case of their 
absence, then at some public place at the dwelling house, shall be deemed 
sufficient. The depositions shall be certified by the commissioners taking 
the same, sealed up, and sent by them to the clerk of that house of which 
the person was returned a member, without delay ; and the depositions 
taken as aforesaid, shall be by the clerk of the house, respectively, delivered 
to the speaker thereof, to be committed with the petition of the party com- 
plaining, and shall be received and reiid as evidence upon the hearing there- 
of ; subject, however, to the exceptions of the opposite party. 

24. Subposnas for witnesses shall be issued by the clerks of the courts 
of the counties, cities, towns or boroughs, upon the application of either 
party ; and the witnesses shall be entitled to the same allowance, be privi- 
leged from arrests, and be subject to the like penalties, a.s witnesses attend- 
ing the county courts. 

25. It shall be lawful to hold .« si'p;n"a'e poll to <;hoo.'?e an elecloi oi elcc- 

G6 



02a ADDENDA TO THE GAZATEER, <fcc. 

tors for president and vice-president of the United States in ,any county of 
this state, at such place or places, as now, or may hereafter be prescribed 
for holding a separate poll or polls for the election of members of the gene- 
ral assembly : And the persons qualified according to law to vote for mem- 
bers of the general assembly of this state, shall assemble at the place or 
places directed for holding such separate poll or polls, on the first Monday in 
November in every fourth year, according to the provisions of the act, entitled 
"an act to reduce into one act the acts now in force providing for the ap- 
pointment of electors to choose a president and vice-president of the United 
States," passed February the eighteenth, eighteen hundred and twenty-three. 

26. If from death, sickness or other cause, the returning officer, herein 
before designated, in any case of a senatorial election, or in any case of an 
election of a delegate for an election district, shall be unable to attend for 
the purpose of comparing the polls, and making the returns at the time 
and place prescribed by law, then such duties, and all other duties conse- 
quent thereupon, shall be performed in the following manner, that is to 
say .' If the sheriff, being the proper returning officer, shall have died, 
then the duties aforesaid shall be performed by his successor, if any there 
be; if there be no successor, then by the coroner of the county ; if such 
sheriff be sick, or otherwise unable to attend, the said duties shall be per- 
formed by such of his deputies as he shall appoint for that purpose ; or if 
he have no deputy, by the coroner. If the deput}^ sheriff, being the proper 
returning officer, shall have died, or be unable to attend, the said duties 
shall be performed by the high sheriff, or by deputy. If a mayor, being 
the proper returning officer, shall have died, or be unable to attend, the 
said duties shall be performed by his successor, if any there be; if" none, 
by the recorder ; if no recorder, then by the senior alderman capable of at- 
tending. If a recorder, being the proper returning officer, shall haA^e died, 
or be unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed by the mayor, if 
any ; if none, by the senior alderman capable of attending. If a magis- 
trate or alderman, being the proper returning officer, shall have died, or be 
unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed by the magistrate or 
alderman next in seniority, and capable of attending. And if there shall 
be no person hereby authorised, who shall be able to attend and perform 
the said duties, then the clerk of the county, city, towa or borough, as the 
case may be, shall be bound in all things promptly to perform the duties 
aforesaid. 

27. The election of members of the house of representatives of the con- 
gress of the United States, shall continue to be held in the manner, and ac- 
cording to the principles prescribed by the laws now in force in relation 
thereto; except that all persons now authorised to vote for members of the 
house of delegates, shall hereafter be allowed to vote in such elections; and 
except also, that the said elections shall be held in the several counties, 
cities, towns, and boroughs, on their respective court days in the 
month of August of the present year, and on their respective court days in 
the month of April, in the year eighteen hundred and thirty-three ; and 
also, on their respective court days in the month of April, in every second 
year thereafter; and except also, that the officers holding and. conducting 
such elections for members of congress shall, before such election com- 
mences, take an oath to conduct the election i'ahly, in the like form with 
that prescribed by the iwelfih* section, of this act, to be taken by the sheriff 
or other officer conducting ele ctions of members of tb,e general assembly.. 

♦The section referred to i.s the eleventh. " 



RATIFICATION OF THE CONSTITUTION. 523 

The Ratification of Virginia to the Constitution of the United States. 

We, the delegates of the people of Virginia, duly elected, in pursuance 
of a recomtnendation of the General Assembly, and now met in conven- 
having fully and fairly investigated and discussed the proceedings of the 
federal convention, and being prepared as well as the most mature deliber- 
ation will enable us, to decide thereon, do, in the name and behalf of the 
people of Virginia, declare and make known, that the powers granted 
under the constitution being derived from the people of the United States, 
may be resumed by them whensoever the same shall be perverted to their 
injury or oppression, and that every power not granted thereby, remains 
ivith them and at their will : that therefore no right, of any denomination, can 
be cancelled, abridged, restrained or modified by the Congress, by the 
Senate, or House of Representatives, acting in any capacity, by the presi- 
lent, or any department or officer of the United States, except in those 
instances where power is given by the constitution for those purposes : that 
among other essential rights, the liberty of conscience and of the press, 
cannot be cancelled, abridged, restrained or modified by any authority of 
the United States : 

With these impressions, with a solemn appeal to the Searcher of hearts 
for the purity of our intentions, and under the conviction, that, whatsoever 
imperfections may exist in the constitution, ought rather to be examined in 
the mode prescribed therein, than to bring the union into danger by delay, 
with a hope of obtaining amendments previous to the ratification : 

We, the said delegates, in the name and in behalf of the people of Vir- 
ginia, do, by these presents, assent to and ratify the constitution, recommend- 
ed on the 17th day of September, 1787, by^ the federal convention for the 
government of the United States ; hereby announcing to all those whom 
it may concern, that the said constitution is bindmg upon the said people, 
according to an authentic copy hereto annexed, in the words following : 



A Declaration of Rights made by the Representatives of the People of 
Virginia, assembled and held at the Capitol in the City of Williams- 
burg, in full a,nd free Convention — which rights do pertain to them 
and their posterity as a basis and foundation of Governvient. 
(Agreed to nem con, June, '12tlt',i776.) 

I. That there are certain natural rights, of which men, when they form 
a social compact, cannot deprive or divest their posterity; among whrch 
are the enjoyment of life and liberty, with the means of acquiring, possess- 
ing, and protecting property, and pursuing and obtaining happiness and 
safety. 

II. That all power is naturally vested in, ami consequently derived from, 
the people ; that magistrates, therefore, are their trustees and agents, and at 
all times amenable to them. 

III. That government ought to be instituted for the common benefit, pro- 
tection, and security of the people ; and that the doctrme of non-resistance 
against arbitrary power and oppression, is absurd, slavish, and destructiye 
to the good and happiness of mankind. 

IV. That no man or set of men are entitled to exclusive or separate pub- 
lic emoluments or privileges from the community, but in considt^ration of 



524 DECLARATION OF RIGHTS. 

public services; ivhich not being descendable, neither ought tlie offices of 
ntiagistrate, legislator, judge or any other public offices to he hereditary. 

V. That the legislative, executive, and judiciary powers of government 
should be separate and distinct: and, that the members of the two first may 
be restrained from oppression by feeling and participating the public bur- 
dens, they should at fixed periods be reduced to a private station — return 
into the mass of the people; and the vacancies supplied by certain and 
regular elections : in which all or any part of the members to be eligible 
or ineligible, as ihe rules of the constitution of government, and the laws 
shall direct. 

VI. That elections of representatives in the legislature ought to be free 
and frequent: and all men, having sufficient evidence of permanent com- 
mon interest with, and att-achment to, the comniunity, ought to have the 
right of suffrage ; and no aid, charge, tax, or fee can be set, rated or levied 
upon the people, without their own consent, or that of their representatives 
so elected, nor can they be bound by any law, to which they have not in 
like manner assented for the public good. 

VII. That all power of suspending laws, or the execution of laws, by 
any authority without the consent of the representatives of the people, in 
the legislature, is injurious to their rights, and ought not to be exercised. 

VIII. That in all capital and criminal prosecutions, a man hath a right 
to demand the cause and nature of his accusations ; to be confronted with 
the accusers and witnesses : to call for evidence, and be allowed counsel in 
his favor ; and to a fair and speedy trial, by an impartial jury of his vicin- 
age, without whose unantffioiis consent, he cannot be found guilty (except 
in the government of the fend and naval forces); nor can he be compelled 
to give evidence against himself. 

IX. That no freeman ought to be taken, imprisoned, or disseized of his 
freehold, liberties, privileges, or franchises, or outlawed, or exiled, or in 
any manner destroyed or deprived of his life, liberty, or property, but by 
the law of the land. 

X. That every freeman, restrained of his liberty, is entitled to a remedy, 
to enquire into the lawfulness thereof, and to remove the same, if unlawful; 
and that such remedy ought not to be denied or delayed. 

XI. That in controversies respecting property, and in suits between man 
and man, the ancient trial by jury is one of the greatest securities to the 
rights of the people, and ought to remain sacred and inviolable. 

XII. That every freemen ought to find a certain remedy of recourse to 
the laws for all injuries and WTongs he may receive in his person, property, 
or character. He ought to obtain right and justice freely without sale, com- 
pletely and without denial, promptly and without delay, and that al' estab- 
lishments or regulations, contravening these rights, are oppressive and unjust. 

XIII. That excessive bail ought not to be required, nor excessive fines 
imposed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted. 

XIV. That every freeman has a right to be secure from all unreasonable 
searches, and seizures of his person, his papers, and property; all war- 
rants, therefore, to search suspected places, or seize any freeman, his papers, 
or property, without information upon oath (or affirmation of a person reli- 
giously scrupulous of taking an oath) of legal and sufficient cause, are 
grievous and oppressive, and all general warrants to search suspected 
places, or to apprehend any suspected person without specially naming or 
describing the place or person, are dangerous and ought not to be granted. 



AMENDMENTS TO FEDERAL CONSTITUTION. 525 

XV. That the people have a right peaceably to assemble together to 
consult for the common good, or to instruct their representatives : and that 
every freeman has a right to petition, or apply to the legislature for redress 
of grievances. 

XVI. That the people have a right to freedom of speech, and of writ- 
ing, and publishing their sentiments ; that the freedom of the press is one 
of the greatest bulwarks of liberty, and ought not to be violated. 

XVII. That the people have a right to keep and bear arms ; that a well-^ 
regulated militia, composed of the body of the people trained to arms, is 
the proper, natural, and safe defence of a free state. That standing armies 
in time of peace are dangerous to liberty, and therefore ought to be avoided, 
as far as the circumstances and protection of the community will admit ; 
and that in all cases, the military should be under strict subordination tOj 
and governed by, the civil power, 

XV^III. That no soldier in time of peace ought to be quartered in any 
house, without the consent of the owner, and in time of war in such man- 
ner only as the laws direct. 

XIX. That any person religiously scrupulous of bearing arms, ought 
to be exempted upon payment of an equivalent to employ another to bear 
arms in his stead. 

XX. That religion, or the duty which we owe to our Creator, and the 
manner of discharging it, can be directed only by reason and conviction, 
not by force or violence, and therefore all men have an equal, natural and 
unalienable right to the free exercise of religion according to the dictates 
of conscience, and that no particular religious sect or society ought to b§- 
favored or established by law in preference to others. 



Aine.iulmenls to the Federal Consiituiwu recommended by Virginia. 

I. That each State in the Union shall respectively retain every powers, 
jurisdiction, and right, which is not by this constitution delegated to the- 
congress of the United States, or to the departments of the federal govern-, 
ment. 

II. That there shall be one representative for every thirty thousand in-. 
habitants, according to the enumeration or census mentioned in the consti- 
tution, until the whole number of representatives amounts to two hundred; 
after which, that number shall be continued or increased as congress shall 
direct, upon the principles fixed in the constitution, by apportioning the. 
representatives of each state to some greater number of people from time to, 
time, as population increases. 

III. When congress shall lay direct taxes or excises, they shall immedi- 
ately inform the executive power of each state, of the quota of such state, 
according to the census herein directed, which is proposed to be thereby 
raised ; and if the legislature of any state shall pass a law, which shall be 
effectual for raising such quota, at the time required by congress the taxes 
and excises laid by congress shall not be collected in such state. 

IV. That the members of the senate and house of representatives shall 
be ineligible to, and incapable of holding any civil office under the author- 
ity of the United Stales, during the time for which they shall respectively 
be elected. 



526 AMENDMENTS TO FEDERAL CONSTITUTION, 

V. That the journals of" the prodeedings of the senate and house of 
representatives shall be published at least once in every year, except such 
parts thereof, relating to treaties, alliances, or military operation, as, in their 
judgment, require secrecy. 

VI. That a regular statement and account of the receipts and expendi- 
tures of all public money shall be published at least once in every year. 

VII. That no commercial treaty shall be ratified without the concurrence 
of two-thirds of the whole number of the members of the senate; and no 
treaty, ceding, contracting, or restraining, or suspending the territorial 
rights or claims of the United States, or any of them — or their, or any of 
their rights or claims to fishing in the American seas, or navigating the 
American rivers, shall be made, but in cases of the most urgent and ex- 
treme necessity ; nor shall any such treaty be ratified without the concur- 
rence of three-fourths of the whole number of members of both houses 
respectively. 

VIII. That no navigation laws or law% regulating commerce, shall be 
passed without the consent of two-thirds of the inembers present in both 
houses. 

IX. That no standing army, or regular troops, shall be raised or kept 
up in time of peace, without the consent of two-thirds of the members pre- 
sent in both houses. 

X. That no soldier shall be enlisted for any longer term than four years, 
except in time of war, and then for no longer a term than the continuance 
of the war. 

XI. That each state respectively shall have the power to provide for 
organizing, arming, and disciplining its own militia, whensoever congress 
shall omit or neglect to provide for the same. That the militia shall not 
be subject to martial law, except when in actual service, in time of war, 
invasion or rebellion : and when not in the actual service of the United 
States, shall be subject only to such fines, penalties, and punishments as 
shall be directed or inflicted by the laws of its own state. 

XII. That the exclusive power of legislation given to congress over the 
federal town and its adjacent district, and other places, purchased or to be 
purchased by congress, of any of the states, shall extend only to such 
yegulations as respect the police and good government thereof 

XIII. That no person shall be capable of being President of the United 
States for more than eight years in any term of sixteen years. 

XIV. That the judicial power of the United States shall be vested in 
one supreme court, and in such courts of admiralty, as congress may, from 
time to time, ordain and establish in any of the different states : the judi- 
cial power shall extend to all cases in law and equity, arising under treaties, 
made, or which shall be made, under the authority of the United States ; 
to all cases affecting ambassadors, other foreign ministers and consuls ; to 
all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction ; to controversies to which 
the United States shall be a party; to controversies between two or more 
states, and between parties claiming lands under the grants of different 
states. In all cases affecting ambassadors, other foreign ministers and con- 
suls, and those in which a state shall be a party, the supreme court shall 
have original jurisdiction; in all other cases before mentioned, the supreme 
court shall have appellate jurisdiction, as to matters of law^ only : except 
in cases of equity, and of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; in which 
the supreme court shall have nppeHatc' jurisdiction both as to law and fact, 



RECOMMENDED BY VIRGINIA. 527 

with such exceptions and under such reQ:ulations as the congress shall 
make: but the judicial power of the United States shall extend to no case 
where the cause of action shall have originated before the ratification of 
this constitution ; except in disputes between states about their territory ; 
disputes between persons clanning lands under the grants of different 
states ; and suits for debts due to the United States. 

XV. That in criminal prosecutions, no man shall be restrained in tho 
exercise of the usual and accustomed right of challenging or excepting to 
the jury- 

XVI. That congress shall not alter, modify, or interfere in the times, 
places, or manner of holding elections for senators and representatives, or 
either of them, except when the legislature of any state shall neglect, re- 
fuse, or be disabled by invasion or rebellion to prescribe the same. 

XVII. That those clauses which declare that congress shall not exer- 
cise certain powers, be not interpreted in any manner whatsover to extend 
the power of congress; but that they be construed either as making excep- 
tions to the specified powers where this shall be the case, or otherwise as 
inserted merely for greater caution. 

XVIII. That the laws ascertaining the compensation of senators and 
representatives for their services, be postponed in their operation, until after 
the election of representatives immediately succeeding the passing thereof; 
that excepted, which shall first be passed on the subject. 

XIX. That some tribunal other than the senate be provided for trying 
impeachments of senators. 

XX. That the salary of a judge shall not be increased or diminished 
during his continuance in office, otherwise than by general regulations of 
salary, which may take place on a revision of the subject at stated periods 
of not less than seven years, to commence from the time such salaries shall 
be first ascertained by congress. 

And the convention do, in the name and behalf of the people of this 
commonwealth, enjoin it upon their representatives in congress, to exert 
all their influence, and use all reasonable and legal methods to obtain a 
ratification of the foregoing alterations and provisions in the manner pro- 
vided by the fifth article of the said constitution ; and in all congressional 
laws to be passed in the mean time, to conform to the spirit of these amend- 
ments as far as the said constitution will admit. 

Extract from the journal, 

John Becklev, Cierk of Conveniion. 



628 





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13 w ;^ ct 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION, PROGRESS OF COMMERCE, ROANOKE SETTLEMENTS, 

Merit of discovering America, — Advancemeyit of Commerce by the cru- 
sades — in the Italian cities — in Spain, in Portugal, — Discovery of Ame- 
rica, — England, — Want of Commerce in early times, — Voyages of the 
Cabots, — Progress of E^iglish discovery — Frobisker — Gilbert — Ra- 
leigh, — Failure of the. Roanoke settlements. 

The claims of the Icelanders, the Welsh, and even the Norwegians* io 
the discovery of America, seem in modern times to be universally set aside 
in favor of a native of a milder clime. Indeed the evidence by which their 
respective claims were sought to be established was so vague, contradicto- 
ry and unsatisfactory ;t and their discoveries if proven, so entirely acciden- 
tal, and useless to mankind, that it is not at all astonishing that all the me- 
rit should be given to that individual whose brilliant genius first demon- 
strated a priori the existence of a continent in the western waters, and 
whose adventurous daring^ led him to risque his life in the search of a 
world, of the existence of which he was only informed by his science, with 
little aid of any human experience; or that posterity should give to Colum- 
bus the undivided glory of an exploit for w-hich he received only the igno- 
miny of his contemporaries, and to Italy the honor due the birth place of so 
distinguished a son, from whose brilliant atchievements she has received 
little else. 

The spirit of commerce and navigation had been spreading extensively 
in Europe, for some time prior to the discovery of America. The man- 
time towns of Italy early perceived and enjoyed the advantages of trnde, 
and Venice, Genoa and Pisa sprung under the magic of its influence, from 
insignificant towns to the wealth and splendor of populous and magnificent 
cities. This favorable result was much promoted by the crusades. In the 
Holy wars the Italian cities furnished the transports necessary for the con- 
veyance of the immense hordes of northern and western warriors, with their 
accoutrements and attendants, which a love of military adventure, and reli- 
gious fanaticism, were pouring upon the plains of Asia. The vast sums 
received for these services, and for the supply of provisions to the christian 

♦ Winterbotham's America, vol. I. p. 1 and 2., and Hinton's United States. 

t Bancroft's Hist. U. Slates, vol. I. p. 6, and notes. 

t " L'ltalie reparut, avec les divins tresors que les Grees fugitifs rapporterent dans 
sou sein; la ciel lui revela ses lois; I'liudace dc scs enfuuts decouvrit un nouvcl hemii- 
fhcre." — De Stael — Corinue. 



592 ■ HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

host, together with the privileges granted them in many of the conquered 
places, — the discovery ot new subjects of commerce, ana opening new ave- 
nues of trade, — the extension of the knowledge of the countries of the east,.„ 
and the people who inhabited them. — conspiring with the freedom of com--;:f 
merce and boldness of enterprize of the Italian towns themselves, and the 
taste spread through Europe by the returning soldiers of the cross for those 
eastern luxuries and refinements to which they had become accustomed, — - 
expanded the commerce of the world immensely beyond all former bounds, 
and threw that commerce almost exclusively iniu the hands of the towns of 
Italy.* 

The spirit of discovery and commercial adventure so happily aroused and 
extended by the wild and visionary schemes of religious bigots for the 
emancipation of the holy land was destined to be yet further extended by 
religious zeal mingled with ignorant superstition. Benjamin, a Jew, tra- 
velled from Constantinople through the countries of the Euxine and Cas- 
pian Seas to Chinese Tartary, in the vain hope of discovering his own sect, 
ruling in opulence and power, some countr}- of which Europe was igno- 
rant. Innocen* IV. sent two monks to Zengis Khan in the midst of his 
victories, and equally ignorant of the Pope as of the christian doctrines, 
whh orders to embrace the christian religion, and to cease desolating the 
earth, St. Louis of Fiance being made^to believe that a Tartar Chan had 
embraced the christian faith, and percei\nng the advantages which the 
christians could have by the exertions of such an ally, in their future wars 
with the Saracens, immediately despatched two monks to him as ambassa- 
dorsj and one of these made a more extensive circuit through the interior 
of Asia than any European kad done before him. 

To these succeeded the long commercial and exploring expeditions of the 
celebrated Venetian adventurer, Marco Polo, who in the course of his 
rambling perigrinations of '^6 yeaj-s duration, penetrated to Cambalu or 
Pekin the capital of the great empire of Cathay or China, and increased 
immensely the information of Europe as to the situation and condition of 
couBtiies, from which they had long drawn luxuries, through circuitous 
commerce, without knowing even the position of the country whence they 
came 

Half a century after the Venetian had astonished the yet ignorant and 
A D 1 '^'^•2 ^^"^^^^ semi-barbarous inhabitants of Europe, with his ac- 
count of the vast extent, wealth, population, variety of manu- 
factures and extent of traiie of the east, his account was confirmed in the most 
essential particulats by Sir John Mandeville an English gentleman, who 
excited by his example visited most of the countries of the east which he 
had described. 

Whilst this spirit of enterprise was developing itself, and Europe, be- 
coming more settled and civilized, was looking with eager anxiety towards 
the vast fields for commerce opening to the east, — another son of Italy, so 
obscure or so neglected^ that we know not his history, habits or profession, 
was about to produce a new era in the history of commerce, and to advance 
the v/crld a great step in the progress of knowledge and civilization. — 
Flavig Gioia, a ciuzen of Af/ioilfi, discovered ihe properties of the magnet, 
and applied it to that indispensable instrument of modern navigation, the 
m(irir.e7^s covipass. This discovery rendered it no longer necessary for 

♦Roberrson's Ch. V, and History of America. 



History of Virginia. 53^" 

th#-ca;ff&ous mariner to hug the coast for his safety, hat he might boldly 
vetftlireupon the hroad bosom of the deep, and though the sun went down, 
and the stars shone not, he feared nothing, for the humble citizen of Amalfi 
had-pvovided him with a guide safer than the coast, and an unerring pilot, 
whose knowledge darkness and storms could not obscure or obliterate. 

■The first dawning of this bolder spirit seems to have been exhibited by 
the Spaniards in the discovery of the Canary and Fortunate Islands, which 
lie-near five hundred miles from the coast of Spain, and more than a hun- 
dred and fifty from the African coast. But although Spain was destined to 
surpass all other nations in the magnitude of her maritime discoveries, by 
the dtsGdvery of America, yet she was not the immediate agent of extending 
thai spirit ofniaritime adventure, and nautical information which contribut- 
ed *o materially in bringing about that event. Bier discoveries of the For- 
tunate ami the Canary Isles seem rather to have been the result of accident 
than a permanent course of well directed experiments. It is to one of the 
smallest and least powerful kingdoms of Europe that we are indebted fpy 
that boldness of conception and persevering enthusiasm of execution, in 
voyages of discovery, from which only grandeur of results in any under- 
taking can ever be expected to spring. 

The final expulsion of the Moors from Portugal, left many ardent and 
adventurous spirits without occupation, and Portugal being a small mari- 
time state, too weak to cope with the powerful kingdoms in its neighbor- 
hood; whose prowess was equal to its own, naturally looked upon the sea. 
. Y^ I At 1 as the field of its future exploits, and source of its future great- 

■v:y'A .: • ness. John I. surnamed the Bastard, having fixed his own ti- 
tle to the crown by a peace Avith Castile, determined \.g find employmer>t 
for the restless spirits of his kingdom by an expedition against the Moors 
on the neighboring coast of Africa,' but whilst it was fitting out he des- 
patched a few vessels along the coast of Africa in search of undiscovered. 
couWries. This expedition succeeded in doubling Cafe Nov, which had 
hitlverto been the Ultinm Thvlf of modern navigation. 

A Tl'ili-' The success of the king's expedition against the Moors in- 
" 'fused into the nation a spirit for new enterprises. Prince 

Henry, duke of Viseo, the fourth son of John by the sister of Henry IV. 
of England, became the patron and superintendant of the new enterprizes. 
A n Am Under his auspices Porto Santo, and Madeira were discoA'-er- 

■ ■ ■ ' ' ed and colonized. It was to his care tli#.the latter island was 
inde'bted for a stock of domestic animals, a supply of seeds, and slips of the 
A ft"-f A'>n ■^^''' ^"^ cultivation of Avhicli, produced such a valuable article 
^ 'of commerce for the Portuguese, and of luxury for the Avorld. 
The di.scov^ery of these islands introduced among the Spaniards a. bolder 
system of navigation. They no longer crept along the coast from head 
land -to head land, which was in truth the most difficult and dangerous 
navigation, but they ventured to keep the open sea, and were thus enabled 
to pass with ease difficulties which had before seemed insuperable. Cape 
Bojardor which had been a barrier for twenty years, was passed, and the 
whole coast explored from Cape Blanco to Cape de Verd. Prince Henry 
whose mind seems to have been in advance of the age in which he lived, 
manifestly contemplated a passage to India, around the southern coast of 
Africa. He vvas not deterred by the idea which many had taken up from 
the writingsof the ancients that the regions of the torrid zone were r^der- 
ed uninhabitable by their excessive heat, eA"en when this idea seemed to be 



534 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

confirmed as they advanced south, by finding the inhabitants jet black, their 
hair short and curled, their noses flat, and their lips thick. Nor wa? he 
deterred by the captious objections of the envious little politicians about his 
father's court But with the double view of silencing objections, eiilisting 
religious zeal in his favor, and acquiring a title to his discoveries, tlie va- 
lidity of which no christian prince or country of that day would have dared 
to dispute, — he obtained a bull from Pope Eugene IV. giving him aiv e;!Cr 
elusive right to all countries which he should discover from Cape Noat^ 
the continent of India. • ■ 

The fame of prince Henry's discoveries spread rapidly through Europe^ 

and attracted to him all of the adventurous spirits of the age, who had ac- 

n I lAQ T^''"*^*^ ^'W knowledge of the science of navigation. The 

■ ■ 'Cape de Verd Islands, and the Azores were discovered, and 

every discovery added new stimulus to naval enterprise, as every voyage 
added new information to naval science. 

A T) li'^'^ ^" the midst of his successful career he was unfortunately 
^' checked by the hand of death, and Alphonso who occupied the 
throne at the time of his death, being busily engaged in other pursuits, suf- 
fered the spirit of enterprize to languish during the remainder of his reign. 
A n \l^\ ^^^ ^*^" '^"'^ successor John II. speedily revived the spirit of 
* discovery among his subjects, and by his zeal and efficiency 
more than compensated for the supineness of his predecessor. He soon 
found out the advantages of a trade with the natives of the African coast, 
after he passed the Great Desert, and reached the regions of ivory, gold 
and preGi(K3S gums. He- Jbad the merit of demonstrating the fallacy <)^f'the 
icpinion that the torrid zone was uninhabitable, and found that so far from 
fhis, it was populous and fertile. lie too conceived the idea of opening an 
intercourse with India, around the southern point of Africa, and persevered 
jn his favorite object with unwavering zeal, until the practicability of accom- 
plishing his wishes, was fully established by Bartholomew Diaz, who 
Reached the extreme soutliern point but was unable to pass it, by reason of 
ihe violent storms Avhich he there encountered, and the crazy condition of 
fiis vessel. This point which Diaz named Cabo Tormentozo, in commemo- 
fation of the difficulties which he had there encountered, John called, the 
43a,p.e of Good Hopt, in manifestation of his delight at the certain prospect of 
the accomplishment of his wishes. It has retained the latter name. 

This near prospect of a,^ easier and more direct route to India, had al- 
ready began to excite the jealousy of the Venetians, who then nearly mo- 
nopolized the trade of India, and to elevate the hopes of the Portuguese, 
who expected to enjoy a portion of the wealth and luxury which the Veni- 
tians derived from that trade; when the minds of both, and indeed of all 
Europe were turned in another direction by the occurrence of an event in 
the history of maritime discovery, compared with which all others sunk 
into insignificance. 

This event was the discovery of America, by Christopher Columbus. 
r»>f 11 1/109 '^'''^ education of this dnriiig mariner, his disappointments 
' ' ■ and dangers, his difficulties and his brilliant success, or 
the melancholy story of his sad reverses, and the example afforded in him 
of the ingratitiidi' of kings it is not the purpose of the writer to narrate. 
He refrains from recounting so temptingly interesting a narrative, because 
it would lead him too far from his purpose, which is only to narrate suc- 
cinctly the progress of navigation and discovery to the time of the first eolo- 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 535 

ny settled in Virginia, — and because the same story has been so well told 
by Robertson, Irving* and others, that it ought to be familiar to all. 

Notwithstanding the advances in navigation which have been enumerat- 
ed; the art of ship building was still in such a rude and imperfect state, that 
the vessels in which Columbus embarked on an unknown sea, a modern 
mariner with all the advantages of modern science would scarcely venture 
m, to cross the Atlantic. The largest was a vessel of no considerable bur- 
den, t and the two others scarcely superior in burden to large boats, and the 
united crews of the three only amounted to ninety men, including officers, 
and a few gentlemen, adventurers from Isabella's court. 

But notwithstanding these inadequate means lor the prosecution of mari- 
time discovery, the ardour of enterprize was so much excited by the brilliant 
achievements of Columbus, the greedy thirst for gain, and hope of finding 
some country abounding in gold, together with the eager desire which still 
prevailed of discovering some passage through the great continent of Ame- 
rica, which might lead to India, that in twenty six years from the first disco- 
very of land by Columbus; — the Spaniards had visited all of the islands of 
the West Indies, they had sailed on the eastern coast of America from the 
Rio de la Plata to the western extremity of the Mexican Gulf — they had dis- 
covered the great southern ocean, and had acquired considerable knowledge 
of the coast of Florida. It is also said that these voyages in search of a nearer 
passage to the East Indies, had extended much further north, but not however 
until that country had been discovered by the sea-men of another nation, of 
whose exploits in the field of maritime adventure we shall presently speak. 

The great interior was still unkown.the wli&ie -western and the extreme 
south eastern coast was still undiscovered, and the long line of coast frora 
Florida to Labrador had only been seen, and touched upon in a few places, 

England did not at an early period make those advances in navigation, 
to which the eminent advantages of her insular situation invited, and gave 
no promise of that maritime distinction, and commercial wealth, to which 
the wise policy of her subsequent rulers have led her to attain. From the. 
times of the conquest to the discovery of America, England had been en- 
gaged in perpetual wars, either foreign or domestic, and thus while the 
southern portion of Europe and the free cities on the Rhine were advancing 
so rapidly in opulence and power, England was destitute of even the germ 
of that naval strength to which she is so much indebted for her present 
gre.(5tttess. Every article of foreign growth or febric which she consumed, 
was wafted to her shores in the barks of other nations, and the subsequent 
mTSt*«s& of the seas scarcely dared to float her flag beyond the limits of her 
own narrow jurisdiction. Scarcely an English ship traded with Spain 
or Portugal before the beginning of the fifteenth century, and it required 
another half century to give the British mariner courage enough to ven- 
ture to the east of the Pillars of Hercules. J 

Feeble as the marine of England then was, her reigning monarch Henry 
Vil. did not lack the spirit required for undertaking great enterprises, and 
accident only deprived him of the glory of being the pa'tron of the discoverer 



♦Thus work the writer regrets that by some accident, he has never had an oppoj- 
tunify of looking into until recently, and that very superficially and hurriedly, or it 
might have been useful to him in this sketch. It seems to be unaccountably scarce, 
and far too little known for its great merit. 

t Robertson — Hist. America, 49. 

* Robertson's Virginia, p. 18—1!). 



555 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

of America. Columbus after the failure of his own native country' of Ge- 
noa, to encourage his great enterprize, and his second rebuff from his 
adopted country Portugal,* fearing another refusal from the king of Castile 
to whose court he then directed his steps, despatched his brother Bartholo- 
mew to England to solicit the aid of Henry VII. who being then at peace 
was supposed to have leisure to undertake a great enterprize which pro- 
mised such renown to himself and emolument to England. Bartholomew 
was captured by pirates on his voyage, and robbed of all his effects, which, 
with an illness that followed, prevented him from presenting himself at 
court, after he arrived in England, until he could provide himself with suit- 
p , CIO +able apparel by his skill in drawing maps and sea-charts. 

I'eD. Id, 14»a.|jj^ brought himself to the notice of Henry by presenting 
him wi.th a map,t and upon his representing to him the proposal of Colum- 
bus, he accepted it with "a joyful countenance, and bade him fetch his bro- 
ther." ^^ So much delay had been produced by the circumstances mentioned 
that Bartholomew, hastening to Castile, learned at Paris, from Charles, 
king of France, that his brother Christopher's efforts had already been 
crowned with the most brilliant success. || 

When we reflect upon the difficulties which were thrown in the way of 
Columbus at the court of Ferdinand and Isabella, even after they became, 
convinced of the practicability of his sc^heme, and the yet more arduous dif- 
ficulties which he encountered on his voyage, from the mutinous timidity of 
his crew, we may w-ell doubt whether Henry's courage would have ,sul>- 
tained him in the actual accomplishment of the enterprize, or whether Etig- 
land at that time afforded niariners sufficiently hardj'- to have pers^C'^'^ed a 
sufficient length of time in a seemingly endless voyage upon an unknoAvn 
sea. 

Fortunately, perhaps for mankind the courage of England was not put 
T 9i 11Q7 '■^ ^'^^ ^^^^ °^ making the first great adventure, and wheth- 
' ■ er she would have succeeded in that or not, she was not des- 

titute of sufficient' courage to undertake an enterprize of very considerable 
magnitude, at that day, soon after the existence of land in our western 
hemisphere had been discovered. 

The merit of this new enterprize is also due to a native of Italy, and bis 
motive was the same which prevailed in most of the adventures of the-time, 
the desire to discover a new route to India. 

Giovanni Gaboto^Jaetier known by his Anglicised name of .Tohn Cabot, 



♦ "Christophoro Colon temendo, se parimente. i Re' Castlg-lia non a3sei>t«®!9iSfd^lla 
sua impresa, non gli bisognasse proporla di nuovo a qualche altro principe, ife cosl in 
cio passaisse lungo tempo; mando in Inghelterra vn siio fratello che haueiia appresso 
di se, chiamato Bartolomeo Colon." Extract from the 13th ch. of his. Chris. Col. by 
his son Fenran: Col. preserved in Hacklyt, vol. 111. p. 22. 

f'Pastilo adnnque Bartolom.eo Colon per Inghelterra, voile la >ua .scrte, cbe desse 
m man di corsali, i quali lo spogliarono insieme con gli altri della sua naue. Per la 
qual cosa, & per la sua pouerta & infirm.ita, che in eosi diverse terre lo assalisono 
crudeliriente, prolungo per gran tempo la sua ambasciata, fin que aquistata or. poeo di 
faculta con lar carte, ch ei fabricava comincio afar pratiche co il Re Enrico Settiino 
a cm appresento vn mappa raondo." Hacklyt, vol. III. p. 23. 

tThis date is preserved in some curious verses upon the mup, of \rhich we give a 
specimen. "Bartholmew Colon de Terra Rubra." "The yeere cf Grace, a thousand 
and four hundred and fourscore" "And eight, and on the thirteenth day of Pebuary 
more "In London published this wbrke. To Christ all laud'therefore. Idem." 

§ "Con allegro volto accetto la sua offerta, & mandolo a cHiamare." Idem. 

II " Gia scoperte L, Indie." Hacklyt III— 24. 



. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 537 

a Venetian merchant who had settled at Bristol, obtained from Henry a 
charter for himself and his three sons Lewis, Sebastian and Santius, allow- 
ing them full power and authority to sail into all places in the eastern/ wes- 
tern or northern sea under the banners of England, with five ships, at their 
own proper costs and" charges, to disco^'er countries before unknown to 
christians, to plant the banners of England in all such places, and to take 
possession of them, to hold as vassals of England, to have the exclusive mo- 
nopoly of the trade of all such places, paying to the king one-fifth of the 
clear profits of every voyage. All other persons were prohibited from vis- 
iting such places, and the Cabots were bound alwaj^s to land on their re= 
turn onl}'- at Bristol.* 

Under this patent containing "the worst features of colonial monopoly 
and commercial restriction," John Cabot and his celebrated son Sebastian 
embarked for the west. The object of Cabot being to discover the passage 
to India, he pursued a course more northwardly than any selected by pre- 
vious navigators, and the first land he reached was the coast of Newfound- 
land, which on that account he named Prima Vista, next the Island of St. 
John, and finally the continent, among the " Polar bears, the rude savages 
and dismal cliffs of Labrador," and this .seems to have been the only fruit of 
the firstt British voyage to America. 

* Hacklyt, Robertson, Marshall, Bancroft, Burke, &c. 

tit seems to have been a prevalent error among historians to confonnd this first 
English expedition of John Cabot with his son Sebastian, under liis orders, with the 
second expedition under the sole command of Sebastian, and the .second expedition 
being of most importance, as a much larger portion of the continent t\ as diicovered, 
is most frequently spoken of, and the credit of it is of course given to Sebastian to 
whom it is due, and the first expedition having unacccountably been blended with the 
second, John has not received that credit which he deserved. This may account 
for the reason why it would appear that it had been attempted to deprive the father 
of the glory of having accompanied the expedilion, as Bancroft (vol. I. p. 10,) thinks, 
and may solve the dilhculty which Burke tliinks insuperable, (vol. I. p. 37.) Robert- 
son blends the two voyages, but gives John the credit of both, he is followed by Mar- 
shall, Burke and Holmes, (Am. An.: vol. I. p. 17.) The fact of the two voyages may 
be established by the clearest evidence, and thus the father may be entitled to the me- 
rit of being the first discoverer, and his son Sebastian of extending the discovery from 
a small barren unpromising coast to the whole continent. See Bancroft, vol. l" p. 10, 
and 12, and references there quoted. 
''The first voyage was in 1197, the second in M98, the first was undertaken with six 
ships, the second with only two, and three hundred men, — there is no account of "the 
first expedition after the first discoveries of Newfoundland, end the Island of St. John; 
there is a detailed account of the voyage of the-secoad'tip and down the coast from 
the .5Gth degree of lat. to the coast of Florida, &c. See Hacklyt III. 27, and 28 — and 
V. 28'2 — -3. There seems, however an error in both of these last references, in the lat- 
ter by making Sebastian Cabot a "Venetian born," and iu the former in making him 
say that he undertook the voyage by reason of the fame of the discoveries of Colum- 
bus having "created in his heart a great flam_e of desire to do some notable thing," after 
his father's death. This last account is quoted by Hacklyt from Baptista Ramusius, 
who gives it upon the authoritv of Galeacius Butigarius, the Popes legale in Spain,,a5 
having been told to him by Seba-jtian Cabot himseLf, but this story is set aside by the 
strongest evidence, which ra-ay be foimd on the same page, purporting to be an extract 
from the map of Sebastian Cabot, cut by Clement Adams, concerning his discovery of 
the West Indies, Avhich is to be seen in her majesties " priuie gallerie of WestEiinster, 
and in many other ancient merchants' houses." 

"Anno Domino 1497 loanms Coictus Venetus, ei Selastianiis illius jlllius earn ter- 
rain fecerunt peruiam, quam nuUus piius adire ausus fuit, die 24 lunij, circiter ho- 
ram quintam bene mane. Hanc autem appellavit terram primum visam, credo qucd 
ex mari in earn partem primum oculos iniecerat, etc. This together with the king's 
patent — "damus et concedimus pro nobis et hcsredibus nosfris, dilecis nobis /c^ffTirii 
Cahoto civi Venetiarimi, Lodovico, Secastiano, et Sancio. filijs dicti Icanni;, et eorum 
63 



888 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

'-In the follouirig year a new patent was given to John Cabot, and the en- 
F h" "^ \dQ^ terprize was conducted by his adventurous and distinguished 
' "" son Sebastian, in this expedition which was undertaken for 
purposfis of trade as well as discovery, sevei'al merchants of London* took 
part, and even the king himself f Cabot sailed in a north west coarse, 
in hopes of finding a north west passage to India, as far probably as the 
58th or 60th degree of latitude, until he was stopped by the quantities of ice 
which he encountered, and the extreme severity of the weather, he then 
turned his course southward and followed the coast according to some 
writers to- the coast of Virginia, and in- the opinion of some as far as tbe 
coast of Florida.^ The only commodities with which he returned to Eng- 
land, as far as our accounts inform us, were three of the natives of the 
newly discovered countries. He found upon his return, the king immersed 
in his preparations for a war with Scotland, which prevented his engaging 
in any further prosecution of hisdiscoveries, or entertaining any design of 
settlement. ..:.-. 

It is not our purpose to notice the Portuguese discoveries under Cotereal, 
the French under V^errazzani and Cartiei', or their abortive attempt at set- 
tlements in Canada, and New England. Nor shall we notice the extensive 
inland expedition of the Spaniards under Soto from Florida, through the 
.states of Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, across the Mississippi, and into 
Louisiana, — or the attempts of the French at settlement m Florida, and the 
"Carolinas, — these rnatter.s belong rather to the history of the United States, 
than the sketch of the. history of Virginia which we propose to give.rwe 

pass at once to the British atte-mpls at colonization in America. ■•■ '*«"^ 

• The progre.?s of flfiawtime ad-venture extended rapidly. The evidence 

hoeredibus," etc. and again his permission, "tertio die Febuarij, anno 13, licentiam dedit 
loanno Caboto, quod ip'=e capere possit .sex naves Anglicanas, etc." sufficiently prove 
that John was not den.d when Sebastian was seized with a " flame of desire to do some 
actable thing," and go to discredit the legate of his holiness. For the authority that he 
was not a Venetian born, but a native of Bristol,— See Bancroft, vol. I. p. 8., note 1,— 
aiithority of Eden quoted in his history of Travayles in the East and West Indies, 
"Sebastian Cabot told me that he was born in Brystow," etc. See also Edward Haies' 
■account of Gilbert's voyage iu 1583, in Hacklyt, vol. III. 184. He calls him an' "En- 
glishman born." After all' it is not wonderful that Sebastian should have carried off 
most of the credit ot this discovery, since he was a young and active mariner, who 
subsequently distinguished himself not only In England, but in the service of the en- 
terprizing Ch. V. and thus became known all over Europe to seamen and to literary 
men iu the most advantageogs light, whilst his father'probably died soon after his fij-st 
-expedition to this continent'.' 

* See Robert Fabians, Chronicle, quoted, Hacklyt III., 30. ', ,"' 

tSee memoir of Seb. Cabot, 85, quoted, Bancroft I., 13. "' 

tThe diversity among writers upon these matters is astonishing, Baptista Ramusius 
in the account quoted above in note t — p. 557of a conversation held between Galeacius 
Butigarius, and Cabot himself, makes the laUer say "I found the land still continent to 
the 56 degree under our pole. And seeing that there the coast turned toward the 
east, despairing to find a passage, 1 turned back again, &c. and came to that part of the 
coast which is now called Florida, where my victuals failing, I returned to England, 
•where I found preparation for wars with Scotland, &c. This same Baptista Ramu- 
sias says in the preface to the third volume of his navigations, that Sebastian'Cabot 
wrote to hiin that he sailed beyoad the land of New France, at the charge of Henry 
VII. of England, unto the latitude of 67 degrees and a AaZ/ under the North Pole, and 
at the Uth dav of June, finding stiU the open sea without any manner of impediment, 
he thought to have passed that way to the east, and would have done it, if the mutiny 
of the shipmaster and mariners had not hindered him, and made him return homevard 
from that place. In opposition to this Peter Martyr says in the sixth chapter of his 
hird Decade, that he was stopped by ice— et prime tendens ad septentrionem donee 



HISTORY OF VfRGINIA. 539 

^"f *M^ °u ^^''^''^^ English voyages having been made not only to the coast 
ot North America, but the Levant, the harbors of northern Africa and Bra- 
A. D, 1548. ^^'' Tile visits to the fisheries of Newfoundland had become 
• ; * frequent, and the commerce from that source had become of 

such importance, and to have been the subject of such long and oppressive 
exactions, as to require the action of Parliament for their prohibiton. 

India was still the great object with the merchants, and the discovery of 
A. D. 1550 ^ n*-'arer passage than that offered by the Cape of Good 

Hope, the great desideratum with mariners. I'he north- 
western passage had been attempted thrice by the Cabots in vain, a north- 
eastern expedition was fitted out, and sailed under the command of Wil- 
loughby and Chancellor. AVilloughby with his ship's company were found 
in their vessel frozen to death in a Lapland harbor; Chancellor with hig 
A D 1554 ^^s^sl ^"tered the port of Archangel, and "discovered" the vast 

empire of Russia, till then unknown to western Europe — 
This discovery led to the hope of establishing an intercourse by -meajis of 
A D 1568 ^^i"^vans across the continent to Persia,, and thence to the 

distant empire of Cathay. 
Elizabeth afforded every encouragement to the maritime enterprises of 
her subjects, and especially encouraged the newly established intercourse 
A D I'lTT with Russia. The hope of discovering a north west passage 

was by no means as yet relinquished. Martin Frobishep, 
after revolving in his mind the subject for fifteen years, believed that it 
might be accorrjplished, ^nd "determined and resolved with himself to go 
and make full proof thereof," '-'knowing this to be the only thing ia thg 

etiam Julio mense vastas repererit glaciates moles pelago natante.';, et hi-cem. fere per- 
petuam, tellure tamen libera, gelu liquefacto: quare coactus fuit uti ait vela vertere 
et occidentem sequi: tendedit que tan turn ad meridiem, ut Herculii freti latitudmis 
fere gradus aqiuiril: ad occidentemque profectus tamuin est ut Cubam Insidam di. 
laeva, longitudiae graduura pene parem, habuer^it." The author further says "F|.- 
miliarem habem domi Cabotum ipsiim, et contubernalem interdum," from whicji on^ 
would think he ought to know the truth. Francis Lopez de Gomafa, a Spaniard, ..says 
that Cabot sailed north 58 degrees, and better, that in the month of July, he was step- 
ped by cold and ice, that the days were long, and '-in a manner" witJiout any night, 
^nd the night they had was very clear, that he sailed west, and south to 38 degree^, 
and then returned to England. This Spaniard had probably an acquaintance alsp 
with Cabot, who resided a long time in Spain, holding the office of Pilot Major.--- 
These last quoted accounts which seem most credible, are followed by Haeklyt, vol. 
V. p. 283, Bancroft, vol. I. p. 12. 

Holmes in American Annal's, vol. I. p. 18, does not rriention the ice, but supposes 
him to have gone as far N. as 67^ 30', and S. as the south. of Florida, we find upon re- 
ference to a note which hemakes that hehas been struck with the same diffieulties.with 
which we have been contending in this, and gets over the difficulty by the extreme 
age of Cabot at the date of the conversation and the letter, but nothing short oi dotage 
.can account for the inconsistences. We see also that he confounds the first and second 
expeditions of the Cabots by supposing the first was never carried into effect, ]>laciiig 
the second in 1497, and supposing it conducted by both John and Sebastian Cabot. This 
at first seemed plausible as the date of what we have supposed, the second expedition 
was 13ih of Henry VII. and the battle of Bosworth being fought August 22,, US5, tLe 
13th year might seem to embrace June of 1497, but this hypothesis is exploded by re- 
.ference to the statement that on the lltJi of June Sebastian Cabot was at 67^ 30' Pf. 
.lat. whilst his map states that the first land discovered by John and Sebastian was on the 
24/.A of June, which could not of course have been on the same year. Bancroft's ex- 
planation of these difficulties seems best, he supposes another voyage to have. been 
made by S. Cabot from England in the reign of Henry VIII. to the'north west coas^»f 
America, to which he alluded in his conversation and his letter. This idea isstrong- 
ly confirmed by his reference to Haeklyt, v. III. p. 591.2. 



'540 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

world that was left yet undone, whereby a notable niind might be made fa- 
mous and fortunate.""* Frobisher was too poor to supply himself with the 
means of carrying his designs into execution, but after much solicitation at 
court he was patronized by Dudley, Earl of WarAvick, who supplied him 
with two small barks, the one of twenty and the other of twenty five tons bur- 
then, and a pinnace of ten tons. With this little fleet he set sail, the expedi- 
tion was entirely unfortunate, one of his barks deserted and returned horne, 
the pinnace went down in a storm, "whereby he lost only four men," with 
such small vessels and crews did the hardy mariners of that day venture 
to cross the Atlantic. The Admiral's mast was sprung, and the top mast 
blown overboard by the same storm in which he lost the pinnace, but noth- 
ing daunted, he persevered, and entered Hudson's bay The only thing 
accomplished by the voyage was the taking possession of the cold and bar- 
ren wilderness in the name of Elizabeth, carrying home some of the gravel 
and stones, one of the latter of which resembling gold, or probably, having 
some gold artificially mingled with it after it reached London, caused the 
gold refiners nearly to go mad, and the merchants to undertake one of the 
wildest expeditions recorded in the annals of discovery; besides this show 
of gold, which was pronounced very rich for the quantity, the only other 
acquisition v.as a poor native, whose simplicity was imposod upon by the 
most treacherous devices, until he was decoyed to the English vessel, and 
then seized by force, and carried away from his friend.?. He bit off his 
tongue from despair and died soon after his arrival in England from cold 
taken on the voyage. 

The mania which the stoty of the little bit of gold produced in London 
. y-x ,t-^~ caused a fleet, of several vessels to be fitted out, of which the 
Q,ueen herself furnished one, to bring home the rich produce 
of these icy mines, — the ships returned with black earth, but no gold. 

The spirit of avarice was not to be stopped in her career by a single fei- 
A Ti \f^7R ^^^i^'6' ''• i"*.®^^ ^^^^ of 15 vessels was fitted out, and Martin 
Frobisher was given the command, a colony was to be plant- 
.ed for the purpose of working the mines, while 12 vessels were to be sent 
home with ore. After almost incredible difficulties encountered amidst 
storms and " mountains of floating ice on every side," the loss of some ves- 
sels, and the disertion of others, they reached the northern Potosi, and the 
ships were well laden with the black earth, but the colonists being disheart- 
ened by their hardships declined settling on the coast, and all returned to 
England, — we are not informed of the value of the proceeds of the cargo. 

Whilst the British Glueen and her merchants were indulging themselves 
in fancies as brilliant and as evanescent as the icebergs which encumbered 
the scene of the delusion, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, a man of insuperable en- 
ergy and fearless enterprise, formed a design of promoting the fisheries, 
and engaging in useful colonization. 

With this view he obtained a patent of the same character with most of 

June 11 1*178 those which were granted to the early promoters of coloni- 

' ' zation in Amerieca, conferring unbounded privileges upon 

the proprietor, and guaranteeing no rights to the colonists. The first expe- 

*Hackiyt III. 86,— Bancroft 1. 99. This latter writer does credit to our country by 
the extent of his research, the soundness of his judgment, and the beauty of his style, 
we feel no hesitation in taking his opinions whenever the works he quotes are not ac- 
cessible, or too numerous and voluminous for us to be able to examine them in our ex- 
ceedingly limited time. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 5.41 

A T-v 1 r-'n dition in which Gilbert had expended much of his private 
lortune lailed, rrom wliat cause is uncertain. 

The second expedition undertaken four years afterwards, was still more 
A D 1 f^^'? unfortunate, for it lost to the world the gallant, and accom- 
plished projector of the expedition. Five vessels sailed from 
Plymouth on Tuesday the 11th of June 1583; two days afterwards the 
Vice admiral complained of sickness aboard, and returned with the finest 
ship in the fleet to Plymouth. The admiral nevertheless continued his 
course with his little squadron and took possession with the feudal ceremo- 
ny of Newfoundland, to be held by him as a fief of the crown of England, 
in accordance with the terms of his charter. 

The looseness of morals displayed by the mariners of that day is truly 
disgusting, and increases our wonder at the daring of men who could veii^ 
ture so far from home, in such frail barks, with almost a certainty of en- 
countering on the great highway in their fellow-men, greater perils than 
Vv^ere presented by all the terrors of the deep. Robbery by sea was too 
common, and often committed in violation of the most sacred obligations, 
even upon persons engaged in the very act of relieving the distress of the 
depredators.* Gilbert seems to have been cursed Avith a remarkably riotous 
and insubordinate company. The sick and disaffected were left at New- 
foundland to be sent home with theSwallow, and the Admiral proceeded 
Avith his three remaining barks. 

On Tuesday the 20th of August they sailed from the harbor of St. John's 
and on the 29th in about latitude 44 degrees, the largest remaining vessel, 
by the carelessness of the crew, struck, and wen-t to pieces, and the other 
barks were forced by a high soa and a lea shore to struggle for their own 
preservation, which they accomplished with difliculty; alleging at the same 
time that they could see none of the crew of the wreck floating upon tim- 
bers, but all seemed to have gone down, when the ship broke up. A tew 
however escaped to Newfoundland in the ship's pinnace, as was afterwards 
discovered. 

This calamity followed by continual .storms, in an unknown and shoaly 
sea, enhanced by an extreme scantiness of provisions, and want of clothes 
and comforts in the two little barks, which yet remained, induced the Admi- 

. ^ qi ral. at the earnest solicitation "of his men to return home- 
°' ' wards. Sir Humphrey Gilbert Avas vehemently persuaded 
by the crew of the Golden Hind to remain Avith them during the voyage, 
but as some malicious taunts had been thrown out by some evil disposed 
person accusing him of being afraid of the sea, he cho.se to continue to sail in 
his little pinnace the Squirrel, which A\'as burthened beyond her strength. 

After the vessels had left the Azores to the south, and reached the lati- 
itude of England, they encountered violent and continued storms. On Mon- 
day the ninth of September the Squirrel AA-as nearl}- cast away, but recover- 
ed, and the Admiral was seen sitting abaft with a book in his hand, and 
heard to cry out to those in the Hind, " we are as near to heaven by sea as 
by land." That same night at 12 o'clock, the Squirrel being in "advance 
her light suddenly disappeared, and her hardy crew with their'gallant com- 
A D Sen ^^ '^f^at^der sleep forever in the deep. The Hind reached -Fhl- 
^ mouth in safety, but tifter encountering eminent peril to. the 

last moment f " - 

* See a remarkable instance in Hackh't, vol. III., 191, 1%, &c. 

t Hackly t, III., 134 to 303. ' ' 



542 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

The daring spirit of the mariners of that day is amazincf. Sir Walter 
Raleigh, the step brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, so far from being in- 
timidated by the melancholy fate of his relative, or disheartened by the, un- 
profitable and disastrous termination of most of the voyages to America, 
IVI- • -Vi 9' \'Ri 4'><^t^i'took in the very next year, an expedition to the coast 
' of the present United States. He easily obtained one of 

the usual vmliii^ited patents from Elizabeth, and leaving the cold north with, 
its barreq snows, its storms, icebergs, and certain evils, together with its 
injaginar^'- wealth, he spread his sails for the sv^'eet south, where he was 
sure to find q. fej-tile soil and a delightful climate, though his ship's compa- 
ny might not all be- enriched by the discovery of gold. 

On the second of July they founded shoal water, "and smelt so sweet and 
J , ^ strong a smell, as if they had been in the midst of some delicate gar- 

^ ■ den abounding with all kinds of odoriferous flowers." 

On the thirteenth they entered Ocracock inlet, on the coast of the present 
J I .^ slate of iS^orth Carolina, and landed on Wocoken Island. They 

^ ''' commenced aq intercourse with the natives, who proved to be bold, 
confiding, intelligent and honorable,* to their friends, but treacherous, re- 
vengeful and cruel towards their enemies. 

The English ej^plored a little the surrounding islands, and bays, and re- 
Q I turqed home in September, carrying with them two natives, 

'^ " ■ Manteo and Wanchese. I'he glowing description given by the 

adventurers on their return of the beauty of the country, the fertility of the 
soil, and pleasantness of the climate delighted the Queen, and induced her 
to name the country of wrhif-lishe had taken possession, Virginia, m com- 
iflenrjoration of her unmarried life, 

It might be expected that .so favorable an account would soon lead to a 
, _Q_ new expedition; accordingly another was prepared tor the succeeding 
■'"■*■ year, consisting of seven vessels. Ralph Ijane was appointed by 
flaleigh, govenor of the colony,- which consisted of one hundred and eight 
persons.! Sir Richard Greenville took command of the fleet, and several 
learned ^nd accomplished men attended the expedition. One of whom has 
p-ansmitted to posterity many interesting particulars of the nature, oi the 
country, and the habits, manners, and government of its inhabitants. | 

The English soon began to maltreat the harmless, unpretending, and 
T 1 11 \'^C simple natives, and they on the other hand to grow jealous 

^ ' ' "" ■ of the povvej M th« overbearing strangers. They soon 
Ifiarned the inordinate passion of the new comers for gold, and taking ad- 
vantage of their credulity inflicted upon them the labor of many fruitless ex>- 
peditions in search of pretended mines, hoping at the same time by these 
divisions to ^veaken the power of the little colony to such a degree that 
they might be able to destroy it in detachment; but the English were too 
cautious fpp this, and went too short a distance, and in force too powerful 
for the Indians to encounter, with the great disparity of arms. The great- 
est advantage which accrued from these expeditions, and indeed from the 
whole attempt at a settlement, was the discovery of Chesapeake bay. 

The little colony finding no gold and receiving no supplies from Eng- 
land had begun to despond, when most unexpectedly Sir Francis Drake 

* See a very pleasing account of this intere.siiiis: intercour.-^e in Harlclvt, III. 304, &c. 
t Bancroft say.s 108, Robertson ISO, TTulmes 107. 
X Harlot in Harklyt, III. 3'34, 40. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 543 

arri'ved, on his return from his expedition against the Spaniards, in South 
America, with a fleet of three and twenty ships. The sagacity of Drake 
perceived in a moment what was necessary for the colony, and his gener- 
osity supplied them with provisions, vessels, and other things necessary to 
maintain their position, extend their researches, and if necessary to return to 
England; but the accomplishment of his purpose Avas defeated by a violent 
storm which suddenly arose, and nearly wrecked his whole fleet, driving 
the vessel of provisions intended tor the colony to sea, and destroying the 
vessels which had been set apart, to be left for their use. He would have 
supplied others, but the colony with their governor at their head, earnestly 
j .q requesting permission to return to England, he complied with 
their wishes. Thus terminated the first English settlement in 
America. 

This little colony during its sojourn with the Indians, had acquired some- 
thing of their fondness for the use of tobacco, and learned to regard it with 
almost the same superstitious reverence as a powerful medicinal agent. 
Upon their return they introduced the use of this plant into England, and 
a weed at first disgusting and nauseating to all who use it, has become gra- 
dually the favorite luxury (and indeed with many a necessary of life) of all 
classes of society and of both the young and the old throughout the world, 
and this after experience has proven that in most cases it is an injury rather 
than a benefit to the health. 

. A few days after Lane's departure, an English ves.sel arrived on the coast 
with every necesssary for the colony, but finding it deserted returned home. 
Sir Richard Grenville arrived soon after wkh-three ships well '"urnished 
with stores, for the colony, but not finding it, he also returned, leaving fif- 
teen men on Roanoke Island, to keep possession in the name of Great 
Britain.* 

A n I'SST" ^^^ genius of Sir Walter Raleigh was not of a nature to 
succumb to slight failures, or ordinary difficulties The suc- 
ceeding 3'ear another colony was despatched to settle in Virginia, and that 
they might consider their settlement permanent and Virginia their home, 
many persons with wives and families were sent. 

Tan 7 HS7 -^ charter of incorporation was granted for a town to be call- 
' ■ ed the City of Raleigh, a name revived in after times in the 

present metropolis of North Carolina. John White was appointed govern- 
or, and Avith eleven assistants constituted the administration for tlie control 
of the colony. Ample provision was made by the noble and liberal pro- 
prietor for the comfort of the colonists, and a plentiful stock of instruments 
of husbandry provided, to enable them to supply their own future wants 
and establish themselves on the only footing which could possibly be ex- 
pected to be permanent. 

Anril 26 ^^^ company embarked in April and arrived in July, at the 
place where they expected to find the fifteen unfortunate men 
whom Grenville had left. But their grounds were grown up in weeds, 
their tenantless dwellings had become the abode of the wild animals of the 
forest, and their scattered bones blanching in the sun, were the last sad me- 
morials which told their fate to their anxious'countrymen. Whether they 
fell by civil dissentions among themselves, by famine or disease, or were 
yet more miserably cut off by the overpowering numbers of a savage host, 

♦ Hacklyt III, 323. 



544 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

taking aflvantage of their desolate situation, deprived of sympathy, and des- 
titute of the hope of succour, is one of the mysteries of history which the 
ken of man may not unravel. 

The sagacity ol Raleigh had directed the new settlement to be made on 
the shores of the magnificent Chesapeak, and there was the new city to be 
built, but the naval officer preferring trade with the West Indies, to explor- 
T ]\f 1^ ^'^» ^^® coast, left White on Roanoke Island, arid compelled him 

^ "*' to establish himself there. 

The colony soon became involved in difficuliies with the natives, partly 
Ttih 99 fromaccident, and partly I'rom the previously engendered hostilityof 

^ ^' some of the tribes. Indeed it would seem impossible a priori, even 
if we had not unfortunately too much experience of the fact, that two nations, 
of such different degrees of civilization, manners and habits, with such dif- 
ferent designs, could longer remain together in peace, harmony and the 
footing of equals. It would seem to be the nature of man that the ignorant 
tribe should be jealous, treacherous and vindictive, that the more civilized, 
should be greedy, rapacious and overbearing. And when a spirit of sus- 
picion is once excited, the imprudence of a single individual too often in- 
volves in a quarrel all of the citizens of the little communities; nothing is 
extenuated, and nothing is attributed to accidt nt; but suspicion in the injured 
party supplies the place of malice in the aggressor. These difficulties made the 
colonists feel more anxiously their dependance upon England, and forced upon 
them a melancholy foreboding that without frequent and effectual asfeistaace 
from the mother country, they could not long sustain themselves in a strange 
and distant land, the natives of which had become bitterly hostile. Under 
this impression when their last ship was about to depart for England they 
forced their reluctant Governor by excessive importunity to desert his charge 
in order that he might lend his personal aid and influence in sending them 
. cyj succour from home. He sailed with the ship but not until after 

°"^ ' his daughter Eleanor Dare, the wife of one of the assistant Go- 
vernors, had presented him with the first white child born on the continent 
\ „ ,a of North America. This child was christened Virginia Dare, and 

°* ■ with her mother was esteemed a sufficient pledge of the exertions 
of the Governor in aid of the colony, and of his speedy return. 

White found all England engaged in anxious preparation to meet the 
A D I t^ftS threatened Spanish invasion, but this did not prevent the ge- 
nerous Raleigh from despatching him with two ships of sup- 
plies for the relief of the colony. But the spirit of gain overcame the spirit 
A M 9o ^^ humanity, and even the tender ties of parental afTection, 
' " ■ instead of going at once to the colony, he employed himself in 
taking Spanish prizes, and was at last himself overcome, and rifled, w-hich 
compelled him to return to England, much to the chagrin of the noble pro- 
prietor, and probably the destruction of the neglected colony. 

The Invincible Armada of Spain had to be overcome, and the safetj* of 
England herself to be secured before another effort could be made to suc- 
cour the little colony at Roanoke, and w^hen this was accomplished, leisure 
found the noble patron of the enterprise too much im]X)verished by his pre- 
vious unprofitable exertions, to fit out at his own expense another expedi- 
tion. He was obliged to assign an extensive portion of his powers to a 
company of merchants and others who might carry his schemes into exe- 
cution, but with his profuse liberality, the active spring which had quick- 
ened previous expeditions Avas gone, the spirit of gain rather than of glory 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 545 

presided over the destinies of infant America, and it was not until another 
A D I "QO y^^^ ^^^ elapsed, that White w-^s sent in quest of his sub- 
jects and his daughter. 

When he arrived the colony was gone, an inscription on the bark of a 
tree, indicating Croatan as the place whither they had gone, was the last re- 
cord of their existence seen by a civilized eye. Conjecture has pointed 
to an amalgamation ^vith the tribe of Hatteras Indians as the history of 
their destiny, and old Indian traditions and the physical characteristics of 
that tribe are said to confirm the idea, but wliilst humanity may indulge a 
hope, credulity itself nnist entertain a doubt of the truth of the hypothesis. 

White returned to England as soon as he tbund out that the' colony was 
gone, arid Raleigh is said to have sent five several times in vain, to search 
for his liegc-men, but no tidings were ever received of their existence or 
their f.ite. Thus terminated the attempts at settlement on the cnast of North 
Carolina, then called Virginia, the scene next opens upon the broad bosom 
of the "mother of the waters."* 



CHAPTER U. 

SETTLEMENT AT .lAMF.S TOWN SUTFERINGS OF THE COLCVIRTS AD- 
VENTURES OF SMITH. 

New Company raised — its charier, — Jamrs'TS-yn,, — MarJnnailons against 
Smith, — Difficulties of the colony,— Smith taken prisoner— his release, — 
Arrival of Newport, — Discovery of earth believed to be gold, — Depar- 
ture of Newport, — Survey of the Chesapeake and its waters by Smith,— ^ 

■ Smith made President, — Second arrival of Newport,— Judicious con- 
duct of Smith, — New Charter, — New arrival of emigrants, — Badness 
of the selection, — New settlements, — Accident to Smith — his departure, 
— his character. 

We have now approached the period in which the Briti&h were de&tined 
to make a permanent settlement in America. England already possessed 
a population considered redundant, in consequence of the inadequate means 
of support afTorded by her limited commerce, and inefficient agriculture. 
The pacific and tim'id character of James I. threw out of employment 
many of the brave spirits who had served under Elizabeth, and left them 
the choice of only two means of acquiring wealth or distinction, — and these 
were either to draw a mercenary sword in the quarrels of strangers, or to 
serve their king and country by"transplanting their energy and enterprise 
to a new Avorld. 

Bartholomew Gosnold chose the latter. He was a person of rank 
and intelligence, and had already acquired distmction by his courage and. 
skill in arms. He solicited his "friends for aid for many years in vain, but 



*This is the translation usually given of the Indian name "Chesapeak" but Chilly 
Mcintosh, the celebrated Georgia Creek Chief, now renaoved west of the Mississippi 
with his tribe, told the writer another meaniBg which he said was the true one, but 
which the writer has forgotten ; but which was however not so unlike the or.e given 
above but that the same word might well convey the tv.-o diiTeient impressions, in dit- 
rent Idioms of the sam-e language, 
69 



546 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

at length attracted the attention of the distinguished adventurer CapTs 
John Smith, Edward Maria Wingfield, a merchant, and Robert 
Hunt, a clergymen, who after taking a year for reflection entered zealotiS-*. 
ly into his projects. , ■'^' 

" Nothing however could be effected until persons of wealth and distinc- 
tion could be found to patronise by their favor, and aid by their capital the 
enthusiasm of the adventurers. Sir Ferdinand Gorges, a man of 
wealth, rank, and influence, had been informing himself by conversation 
with several American Indians who had been carried to England by -pre- 
vious voyages, and by every other means in his power of the nature of 
the country ; and from the information he obtained became exceedingly 
anxious to possess a domain on the western side of the Atlantic. He per- 
suaded Sir John Potham, lord chief justice of England, to unite in his 
views. Richard Hacklvt, the distinguished compiler of narratives of 
maritime adventures, and one of the assignees of Raleigh, had not yet re- 
linquished his hopes of a permanent settlement in America, notwithstand- 
ing the frequent previous discouraging failures, and cheerfully joined in 
this new^ scheme of American colonization. The exertions of these ener- 
getic and distinguished individuals speedily raised a companj?-, and procured 
a charter from King James. 

As this was the first charter under which a permanenl settlement was 
made, it may be worth attention to notice some of its prominent features. 
A -'I 10 irnft '^'^^ charter bears date on the tenth of April sixteen 

P ' ' ' hundred and six.* It grants all the country from 

four and thirty to five and forty degrees of north latitude, and all islands 
within one hundred rriiles oF tirtf 'eWst. This immense extent of couhtTy 
was divided by the charter between two companies, for the more speedy 
accomplishment of their purpose, — which have been ever since designated 
as the London and the Plymouth companies. The London company 
wished to establish a colony between the 34th and 41st degrees of lati- 
tude, and the Plymouth between the 38th and 45th, and the grants were 
made in conformity to their wishes. But as there was room for collision 
between the 38th and 41st degree of latitude, the colony which first settled 
was to possess the land for fifty miles north and south of its location, and 
the other colony wa.s forbidden to settle within one hundred miles of the 
colony first planted. Each of the colonies was to be governed by a coun- 
cil of thirteenf persons, linder the management and direction of a council 
of thirteen in England, 'vvhicii was to regulate both colonies. The council 
in the colonies were to govern according to laws, ordinances and instruc- 
tions prescribed by the king himself The colonies had full power giteft 
to search for and work mines, paying to the king a fifth part of the gold 
and silver obtained, and a fifteenth of the copper ; and they were further 
allowed to coin money to pass current in the colonies. They were also 
empowered to levy a duty of two and a half per cent upon the property of 
the king's subjects trading within their limits, and five per cent upon all 
others so trading, for the use of the colony for twenty one years, and after- 
wards for the use of the king. 

Certain articles of necessity were allowed to be carried to the colonies 

* See this charter preserved in Stith,— Henning's Stat, at Large, p. 60, .and in T- 
Rynier. 

t It appears afterwards that only seven were appointed ; no reason is assigned for 
the change. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 547 

from any part of the king's dominions tree of duty for the first se'v«n 
years; and the colonists and their descendants w«re to have forever the 
privileges, franchises, and immunities of native born Englishmen. 

The English council was to have power to name the persons who were 
to compose the colonial council, and the latter elected their oAvn president, 
and supplied vacancies in their own body. The religion of the ch-urch of 
England was established ; lands were to descend as at common law ; man- 
slaughter, adultery, and dangerous tumults and seditions were to be pun- 
ished with death. The president and council constituted the supreme tri- 
bunal in all cases. The property of the colonists was k) continue in joint 
stock for five years. .. -. 

One hundred and nine years from the discovery of the North American 
r» IQ irnfi continent by Cabot, three small vessels whose joint tonnage 
■ ' ■ amounted to only IGO tons burthen, sailed for the coastrof 

Virginia with a colony of 105 men. They were detained for six weeks in 
sight of England by adverse winds. The voyage was prosecuted under 
the command of Captain Newport, who sailed by the old route of the Ca- 
naries and the West India Islands ; thus consuming the valuable time and 
pi'ovisions of the colonists in a voyage unnecessarily long and circuitous. 
He did not arrive in the Chesapeake until the 2Gth of April. 

Dissensions had sprung up in the course of the voyage, which thjp^ 
was no competent authority to quell, as the absurd affectation of diplo- 
matic mystery on the part of King .Tames had sealed up his instructions 
and the names of those who were to constitute the council, nr a box which 
was not to be opened until after they arrived in Virginia, 

The southern cape of the Chesapeake received the name of Henry, and 
the northern that of Charles, after the names of the sons of James. After 
landing on cape Henry, the box of instructions «^£ opened, and Smith* was 
found to be named as one of the council, but he was excluded by ihe jeal- 
ous malignity of the rest. Wingfield was chosen Prepidenf, 

Soon after passing the capes they reached the mouth of a large aaid 
beautiful river which they named after their sovereign James, but whicfe 
the natives called Powhatan. About fifty miles from the mouth of this 
T^ ,q river they selected a spot for their settlement, to which they gave 
' ^y ■ the name of James Town. There eouiJ not perhaps be a 
company more unfitted for the duty which it had to perforro than that 
which now commenced the foundation of the British empire in America. 
The colonists were in a wilderness .surrounded by savages, without a forti- 
fication to repel their incursions, possessed of a scanty supply of provis- 
ions, without means of planting,— -and without a habitation, to protect 
them from the weather, save such as they might themselves erect; yet m 
the whole company there were but /o(i/ carpenters, and twelve laborers, to 
jlfty-four gentlemen. At first however this rare collection of pioneers feli 
to work with spirit, each to his appropriate duty. The president who 
seems to have been a very weak mart and ill-suited for his station, was too 
jealous of his own men to allo\v exercises at arms, or a fortification to 
be erected ; and the only protection provided was a sort of half moon 
formed of the boughs of trees by the exertions of Kendall. Newpori, 
Smith, and twenty others were sent to discover the head of the river- In 



* The council named was Barf. Gosnold, John Smith, Edward Wmgfiel^ Christo- 
pher Newport, John Ralcliffe, John Martin and George Kendall, 



S48 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

six days tliey arrived at a town called Powhatan, belonging to king Powt 
hatan, situated at the falls of the river, near the site of the present city of 
Richmond, — they were kindly treated by the Indians. When the expe- 
dition returned, they found that James Town had been attacked by the 
savages, and 17 men wounded, and a boy killed. They were attacked 
Avhile at work, and their arms out of order; so that the whole were only 
saved from destruction by the timely aid of the vessels. After this expe- 
rience of his folly the President permitted the place to be fortified, and the 
labor necessary to effect this, with so small a force, whilst it was necessary 
at the same time to guard their workmen by day, to watch by night, to 
prepare ground for corn, and lumber torelade the ships, may be better 
conceived than described. After a stay of six weeJ-^s, Newport prepared 
to depart, and the council affecting a tender regard for the character of 
Smith, whom they had falsely accused of a treacherous design to usurp 
royal authority in thecolony, and kept out of his seat in the council under* 
these charges, now proposed that he might not be utterly ruined by atrial, 
to send him home to the council to be disposed of as it might think proper. 
But Smith conscious of irmocence of the absurd charge, boldly defied 
them, and demanded a trial. His accusers suborned witnesses, who instead 
of answering the expectations of their employers, only exposed the subor- 
nation.. The company were so incensed at the infamous conduct of 
his accusers, that they condemned the President to pay him £200, 
which, when received, he generously threw into the common stock. New- 
port sailed on the 15th of June, leaving 100 men in Virginia. 

The condition of the men thus left was the most melancholy tiial caa 
well be jmagined. They consisted for the most part of men entirely 
unused to labor-, or hardship; who were doomed to encounter every kind 
of difficulty, in the midst of summer, in a hot and sickly climate. In ten 
days from the departure of Newport scarce ten men could stand from sick- 
ness and weakness. The food was scanty in quantitj^ and of the most 
unwholesome quality. The allowance of each man was half a pint of 
wheat, and as much barley, boiled in water, which was served out from a 
common kettle, and which having been closely stowed in the ship's hold 
for 26 weeks in a warm and moist atmosphere, was reduced to a condition 
any thing but tempting. Smith, the narrator of these sufferings, humor- 
ously remarks, "If we had been as free from all sins as from gluttony and 
drunkenness, we might have been canonized for saints." As might be 
supposed in such an unfortunate state of affairs great mortality prevailed, 
and fifty were buried between May and September, and those that survived 
relied principally for their subsistence upon sturgeon and sea crabs. The 
suffering in this state of affairs must have been greatly aggravated by the 
knowledge, that the President was indulging himself in every luxury 
which the stores afforded, — and his detection in an attempt to escape in the 
pinnace, from the suffering colony. This last act of treachery was more 
than the little colony could endure, and weak as it was, it deposed him, 
and Kendall his accomplice. Ratcliffe was made President. The council 
do not seem to have exercised the power granted them in their charter, of 
filling up vacancies, and it was now reduced to three, — Ratcliffe, Smith, 
and Martin; Gosnold had perished, Newport sailed for England, and 
Wingfield and Kendall had been deposed. 

The Pre.sident and Martin being unpopular men, and very deficient in 
judgment and eneigy, committed the control of affairs nearly entirely to 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 549 

Smith, who by his example and his skill in managing men, speedily reduc- 
ed affairs to order, induced the nuen to work, and provided comfortable ha- 
bitations. His next object was to obtain a supply of corn for the immediate 
necessity of the people, which he did effectually by frightening the people 
of Kecoughtan, an Indiari village situated near the site of the present town 
of Hampton, — -after first trying every means to purchase their provision. 
Smith now constituted the only hope not only for the existence of the colo- 
ny as such, but for the lives of the individuals of whom it consisted. Their 
recent wretchedness was not a sufficient warning to them to preserve order, 
9nd to husband their resources with prudence, now that plenty was provid- 
ed, but they lived as wastefully as if they had boundless magazines at com- 
mand. Smith seeing this, caused the pinnace to be fitted up for a cruise, 
and in the mean time availed himself of the opportunity to become ac- 
quamted with the country lying on tiie Chickahominy. 

During one of these temporary absences of Smith, Wingfield and Ken- 
dall, who had lived in disgrace since they were deposed, laid a plot to car- 
ry off the pinnace to England, which the fortunate return of Smith before 
they had time to efllvct tluir purpose, prevented. But not even then were 
they defeated, without firing on the pinnace, by which means Kendall lost 
his life. 

Smith having gained possession of the pinnace, ascended the Chicka- 
hominy, and procured an abundance of corn. Winter coming on soon af- 
ter affx)rded an ample supply of game, and wild fowl, so that plenty Avas 
once more restored, and thought no longer entertained of going to England. 

iiittle souls cannot look upon the greatest exploits of nobler creatures, 
without suffering a captious and jealous malignity to detract from their 
merit. The very beings whom Smith had preserved by his good conduct, 
now murmured against him their absurd complaints — because he had not 
discoA'ered the head of the Chickahominy, although he had returned only 
to supply them with food. His spirit could not brook reproach, however 
undeserved, for anything which was yet possible to be accomplished. Hq 
again ascended the Chickahominy as "far as was practicable in the pinnace^ 
and leaving it in a position which he supposed to be safe, he adv^anced yet 
higher, with two whites and two Indians in a canoe. He left his men with 
his little boat, and taking only his Indian guide, advanced into the forest 
with his gun to procure them provision. Unfortunately, in disobedience tq 
his orders, the men in the pinnace went ashore, and one of them was taken 
by the Indians, who learned from their prisoner whither the Captain had 
gone. The savages pursued him, and slew the men left with the canoe 
whilst they slept. They next sought Smith, but found him no easy prey, 
for tying his guide to his arm as a buckler to keep off their arrows, he de- 
fended himself so gallantly that they dare not approach him, until falling 
accidentally into a marsh, he was at length forced by cold and fatigue to 
surrender. The savages conducted him to their Chief Opechankanough, 
king of Pamunkee. Smith endeavored to impress the king wdth a high idea 
of his powers, by presenting him with a mariner's compass, explaining its 
uses, and instructing him in the rudiments of astronomy, by explaining the 
motion of the earth, its shape, and the motion of the sun, moon and planets; 
truths which it is difficult to believe he could make the savage comprehend, 
especially as he had but little knowdedge of their language. It is more 
probable that the king was pleased with the ivory case of the compass, and 
the mysterious play of the needle, which he could see but not touch, and 



550 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

which moved without an apparent cause. Accordingly, we find when his 
men had tied Smith to a tree and were about to slay him, the king did not 
attempt to prevent it by explaining the motion of the earth around the sun, 
but merely held up the compass, the sight of which, seems to have been 
sufficient to disarm their wrath. 

For six or seven weeks Smith was led about in triumph by these simple 
people, and exhibited to the tribes between the James and Potomac rivers^ 
during the whole of which time he was in hourly apprehension of being 
put to death; but was generally well treated, and provided with most of the 
luxuries which their simple state afforded. At length he was brought be- 
fore their Emperor, Powhatan, who received him with all the formal pomp 
and state known to his savage court. A long consultation was held by the; 
council there assembled, upon the disposition to be made of him, which ter- 
minated unfavorably. He was seized by a number of the savages, and his 
head laid upon two great stones which had been brought there for the pur- 
pose. His executioners had already raised their clubs to dash out his brains, 
and thus at once end his toil and diffii^ulties, and cut off' the only hope of 
ihe colony, when an advocate appeared, as unexpected as would have been 
the appearance of an angel sent immediately from heaven to ask his release. 
This was Pocahontas, the Emperor's favorite daughter, who generously 
stepped forth and entreated with tears, that Smith might be spared. And 
when she found this unavailing with the inexorable judges, she seized his 
head, and placed it under her own, to protect it from the blows. This sig|)t 
so moved Powhatan, that he permitted Smith to live, intending to ret9i|i: 
him to make trinkets and utensils for his family and himself But a'fe'O^' 
days afterwards Powhatan told him they would be friends again, and seiit. 
him back to Jamestown, with an offer of a large district of country in ex-, 
change for two great guns, and a grindstone, but the party who were fa 
carry these things found them so heavy, and were so much terrified by the 
effect of the guns when discharged at a tree, that they were well satisfied 
to return without them, having received a few paltry baubles and trinkets. 
Smith's return again prevented a party from running off with the pinnace; 
which so incensed them that they laid a plot to slay him, by a mock trial 
for the death of the two men he had left in the canoe, and who were slain 
by the savages, but he was too prompt for the conspirators; whom he seized 
and kept close prisoners until he had an opportunity of sending them to 
England for trial. The colony was now only preserved from perishing by 
the kindness of Pocahontas, who brought ample supplies every four or five 
days. . . 

During this time the little colony had not been forgotten by the company 
in England, but Newport soon after his return was again despatched in 
company with another vessel commanded by Francis Nelson, furnished 
with all things which could be imagined necessary either for the crews or 
the colonists. Nelson when in sight of Cape Henry was driven by a storm 
so far to sea, that he was obliged to land in the West Indies to refit and re- 
new his supply of water. Newport arrived without an accident. Before 
the arrival of this supply Smith had established a regular intercourse with 
the savages, and bought their provisions at moderate prices, which the 
high estimation in vv^hich he was held by them, and the awe which his 
name inspired, enabled him to fix for himself But now the poor colonists 
vvefe so grateful to the mariners who had come to their relief that they 
were permitted to trade at such price as they thought proper, by which 



HISTORY OF VIRGliMA. 551 

means it followed in a short time that a pound of copper would not purchase 
what had before sold for an ounce. Newport thought proper to pay a visit 
of ceremony to Powhatan, who received the party with great dignity and 
state. During this visit a contest of Ajits took place between the two par- 
ties in which Powhatan evinced infinitely greater diplomatic skill than 
Captain Newport, and by working upon his pride was very near consum- 
mating a highly advantageous bargain; but he in his turn was out-wittcd 
by the ingenuity of Smith, who having passed many bawbles before his 
eyes, and finding that his attention was attracted by some blue beads, af- 
fected to value them exceedingly, and intimated that they were not to be 
worn except by the greatest personages. This inflamed the desire of the 
Emperor to such an extent that he cheerfully gave several hundred bushels 
of corn for a pound or two of these rare jewels, whose beautiful color re- 
sembled the pure ether of heaven. The same stratagem was afterwards 
played off by Smith with equal success upon Opechankanough, king of 
Pamunkee. 

Unfortunately when Suiillt and Newport returned to Jamestown with 
this new supply, and added it to their former store, it took fire and the 
greater part was consumed ; together with many of their dry thatched dwel- 
lings, a portion of their pallisade fortifications, and some of their arms, bed- 
ding and apparel. 

Instead of returning home with all po.ssible expedition Newport remained 
14 weeks in the colony, consuming the precious provision which should 
have been applied to the support of the unfortunate individuals he was to 
leave behind him. Unfortunately too he had brought out some gold refin- 
ers in his ship, who having discovered a glitteriug earth near Jamestown 
thought it gold, and all hands were diverted from their useful toil for the 
purpose of lading his ship with this worthless article. To such an extent 
did this mania prevail, that Smith says, "there was no talk, no hope, no 
work, but dig gold, wash gold, refine gold, load gold." Newport ha\dng 
completed his cargo at length returned home. Soon after his departure the 
Phoenix, the vessel of Nelson, which had been giv^en up for lost arrived, 
with all his men in safety, and a good stock of provisions, which he freely 
axid fairly gave to the colonists to the extent of his ability. The next sub- 
ject, for consideration, was the return cargo, — to obtain which the Presi- 
dent wished Smith to examine the commodities to be found in the country 
above the falls, — others Avished the lading to be of the same gold with 
which Newport was freighted, — but Smith more prudent than either suc- 
ceeded in loading the Phajnix with cedar, which was the first available 
cargo sent from Virginia to England. 

Smith accompanied the Phoenix as far as Cape Henry in a small open 
T 9 1fin«^ barge with 14 men, with which equipment he proposed to ao- 
' ^" complish his long cherished object of exploring the Chesa- 
peak and its tributary waters. It is not our purpose to follow him through 
his two wonderful voyages, undertaken for this purpose, but we Avill merely 
present an outline of his course from the pen of an able modern author,* 
from whom we have before quoted. "Tu'o voyages, made in an open boat, 
with a few companions, over whom his superior courage, rather than his. 
station as a magistrate, gave him authority, occupied him about three 
months of the summer, and embraced a navigation of nearly three thousand 

♦Bancroft, Hist. U. States, vol. I. p. 149. 



552 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

miles. The slenderness of his means hns bepii contra.sled with the dignity 
and utility of his discoveries, and his name has been placed in the highest 
rank with the distinguished men, who have enlarged the bounds of geo- 
graphical knowledge, and opened trie way by their investigations for colo- 
nies and commerce. He surveyed the bay of the Chesapeake to the Sus- 
quehannah, and left only the borders of that remote river, to remain for 
some years longer the fabled dwelling place of a giant progeny. The Pa- 
tapsco w~cis discovi red and explored, and Smith probably entered the harbor 
of Baltimore. The majeslic Potomac, which at ils mouth is seven miles 
broad, especially invited curiosity; and passing beyond the heights ot Mount 
Vernon and the City f>f Washington; he ascended to the falls aboA-e George- 
town. Nor did he merely explore the river and inlets. He penetrated the 
territories, established friendly relations with the native tribes, and 'laid the 
fouiidation for future beneficial intercourse. The map which he prepared 
and sent to the company in London is still extant, and delineates correctly 
the great outlines of nature. The expedition was worthy the romantic age 
of American history.'^ The map is indeed astonishingly accurate, mc can- 
not forbear adding the corroborating testimony of the distinguished Robert- 
son* upon this subject, w^hich is also quoted and approved by Marshall :t 
" He brought with him an account of that large portion of the American 
continent now comprehended in the two provinces of Virginia and Mary- 
land, so full and exact, that after the progress of information and research 
for a century and a half' his map exhibits no inaccurate view of both ccmn- 
tries, and is the original upon wiiich all subsequent descriptions have been 
formed." 3 

When Smith returned to Jamestown he found that little had been done, 
Sent 7 160S '^^'^ "^ whole summer, which was a season of plenty, was 

"^ ■ ' ■ wasted in idleness by the folly and imbecility of the President 

\Vhose conduct was so outrageous that the company had been at last forced 
to depose and imprison him. 

Smith was now elected President, and his energetic conduct speedily 
Sent 10 brought affairs into good order, and repaired as far as possible the 

^ ■ ■ injuries occasioned by the misconduct of his predecessor. 

Soon after Smith's election Newport again arrived, with the preposterbvs 
order, supposed to have been procured by his own representations, not to 
retura without a lump of gold, discovery of a passage to the south sea, or 
bne of the lost company !?ent out by Sir Walter Raleigh. He also absurdly 
brought some costly articles for the ro3"al household of Powhatan, whic'h 
served only to inflate the pride, without conciliating the affection of tjl^t 
Prince. Some Poles and Dutchmen were also brought for the purpose of 
manufacturing, pitch, tar, glass, ashes, &c. which would have been well^enough 
if the colony had been in a condition always to defy famine, but which it 
was impossible to accomplish now, when every man's exertions were ne- 
cessary to procure a sufficiency of food. Notwithstanding Smith's remon- 
strances, Newport insisted upon his trip of discovery above the falls of 
James river, for the purpose of discovering a rout to the south sea, although 
Powhatan had assured them that the story they had heard of there being a 
sea in that direction was utterly false. 'J'he party returned as Smith had 
predicted, disappointed and disheartened. Since this project had failed 



*See Robertson's Hist, of Va. p. 71. 

tMarshall's Introduction to life of Wa-shington, p. 41. 



HISTORY. OF VIRGINIA. 553 

Smith having first procured a supply of provisions which Newport and the 
rest with all their vain boasting and their costly presents had failed to do, 
and knowing that it was as impossible to find a lump of gold, or one of 
Raleigh's company as it was to find the south sea on James river; set him* 
self to work to supply a cargo of tar, pitch, boards, ashes and such articles 
as they had it in their power to procure, although with great difficulty and 
labor. So effectually did he exert himself, and so much authority had he 
acquired over the delicate gentlemen under his controul, whose tender 
hands blistered with the use of the axe, that in a short time he had provided 
a sufficient cargo, for Captain Newport, who at length departed, leaving 
two hundred souls in the colony. By the return of the vessel Smith wrote 
to the council a letter detailing the cause of their mishaps, assuming them 
that they need not expect a sudden acquisition of wealth, and that nothing 
was to be obtained but by labor. He complained of the want of judgment 
and. economy in the expenditure for the benefit of the colony, which pre- 
vented them from reaping an advantage of greater value than a hundred 
pounds judiciously expended would purchase, from an actual outlay by the 
company of two or three thousand. He also especially complained of the 
habits and character of the men sent out, and entreated them when ihey 
sent again, rather to send "but thirty carpenters, husbandmen, gardeners, 
fishermen, blacksmiths, masons and diggers up of trees, roots, well. provided, 
than a thousand such as they had, for unless they could both lodge and 
feed them, they would perish with want before they could be made good for 
any thing." 

From the departure of the ship, until the next arrival the men were only 
A n irOQ pr'^spi'ved from perishing by the most active and unremitting 
exertions of their President, the detail of whose conduct in his 
intercourse with the savages, and his management of the ill-assorted, disor- 
derly, turbulent spirits under his controul, is one of the most interesting sto- 
ries in history, and proves him to have been a man of extraordinary abili- 
ties. . . 

Although the fond anticipations of the Virginia company had been' en- 
tirely disappointed, a spirit seems to have prevailed, which was rather dis- 
posed to surmount all difficulties by increased exertion, than to succumb to 
the accumulated misfortunes which had already been encountered. 

The company seemed to have perceived their error in expecting a sudden 
acquisition of wealth from their American possessions; and the defects in 
the government established by the first charter. To remedy these evils ;a 
M 9*^ ififiQ "^^^ charter* was obtained, in which many individuals, 

^y ''' and corporate bodies were included, of great wealth, power 

and reputation. 

By the new charter the power which had before been reserved by the 
king was now Iranferred to the company itself; which was to have the 
power of choosing the supreme council in England, and of legislating in 
all cases for the colony. The powers of the governor were enlarged from 
those of a mere president of the council, to supreme and absolute, civil and 
military controul; the instructions and regulations of the supreme council 
being his only guide or check, 'j'here can be no doubt but that this was 
: the only practicable government which could be offered to a colony in tlie 
situation and coniposed of the materials which then existed in Virginia. 

*Src Stith and H< unui'^. 
70 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

The members of the council had only been so many petty tyrants,— the in- 
dolent and weak thwarting the exertions of the industrious and the intelli- 
g-ent, and the cowardly and factious disputing the authority, and impugning 
the motives of such as were brave and honorable. In truth whenever any 
thing good had thus far been done it was by the exercise of absolute author- 
ity by a mind superior to the rest, and whatever had gone wrong might 
with truth be attributed almost as much to the opposing views of the varicrtfis 
members of the council, as to the disposition of some to do wrong. 

Lord De La Ware received the appointment of governor for life under 
the new charter, and an avarice which would listen to no possibility of de- 
feat, and which already dreamed of a flourishing empire in America, sur- 
tounded him with stately officers, suited by their titles and nominal char- 
ges to the dignity of an opulent kingdom. The condition of the public 
mind favored colonization; swarms of people desired to be transported; and 
the adventurers with cheerful alaci'ity contributed free-will offerings. The 
widely diffused enthusiasm soon enabled the company to despatch a fleet of 
nine vessels, containing more than five hundred emigrants.* Newport was 
made Admiral, and vi^as joint commissioner with Sir Thomas Gates and Sir 
George Somers to administer the affairs of the colony until the arrival of 
the governor. But these three individualrj, with a ceremonious punctilio 
characteristic of little minds, seeking that distinction from artificial positiotss 
in society, which they cannot obEain by their own merit, could not agree in 
a contest for precedence, and hence were compelled as a compromise, ail to 
go in the same ship. Thus exposing the colony to all the danger of anarchy 
rather than that cne should appear by the ship he occupied to be a gre«ter 
man than the other. 

They accordingly embarked with their commission, their directions and 
much of the provision in the ^'ea Venture. When near the coast of Vir- 
ginia they encountered a violent storm which destroyed one small vessel, 
and drove the Sea Venture so far to sea that she stranded on the rocks of 
the Bermudas. Seven ships arrived in safety. 

When Smith heard of the arrival of this immense fleet, he at first sup- 
posed it belonged lo Spain, and v/as sent to take possession of the colony, 
he accordingly made all tilings ready with his usual promptness and energy 
of character, to give them a warm reception, and little fear v/as entertained 
of the result. Smith had by this time by his good conduct brought the 
savages so completely into subjection by their admiration for his qualities 
and fear of his power, that they had become subjects and servants, planting 
and working for him as he required; and now when it was- thought^jie 
was about to be attacked by the Spaniards they lent him all the aid in 'itheir 
power. 

The company in England had not attended to the wise advice' of Smith 
in the selection of their colonists, for it must be remarked that he had no 
friend at home, whilst his enemies v/ere suffered there to make their own 
representations. In the new batch of officers Ratcliffe and Archer wer« 
sent back, who had been sent home in disgrace for their idle, dissolute and 
mutinous conduct. They prejudiced the minds of the other officers so 
much against Smith, on the voyage, that they hated him mortally before 
they had seen him. The historian of the times regrets that the fleet was 

♦ Bancroft U. S. I., p. 153 and authorities there quoted. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 555 

cot composed of Spaniards instead of Englishmen, and thinks it would 
have been belter for thecolon}^* 

, The newly imported "unruly gallants, packed hither by their friends to 
escape ill destinies," taking sides with Ratcliffe, Archer and their confede- 
rates against the President, whose commission they affected to consider as 
having been superceded by the new commission, conducted themselves 
very riotously, and refused to remain in subordination to any authority. 
Smith bore this for some time patiently, expecting every moment the arri- 
val of the new commission, and wishing when that event happened to de- 
part for England, and leave the scene of his great sufferings and glorious 
exertions; being willing to quit the service of a company who could so 
unceremoniously dispense with his authority for the purpose of putting 
individuals over him who had no claims upon them, and who knew nothing 
of the management of the colony. Fortunat* ly the commissioners had 
been stranded and did not arrive, and Smith could no longer suffer aflairs 
to remain in confusion. After his resolution was taken ho quickly laid 
by the heels the most factious, who had been perpetually plotting his des- 
truction and engaging in all kinds of mischief, until he could have leisure 
to do them justice. 

The number still remaining at large in James Town being too great for 
that position, and more than could be well supported or easily managed,-^ 
he despatched West with a hundred and tu'enty of the best men he could 
select to form a settlement at the falls ; and Martin vvith. nearly as many 
more to Nansemond ; providing them with a fair proportion of food and 
other necessary articles. Martin managed badly; — his jealous fears in- 
duced him to attack the savages in his neighborhood who had treated hi rft 
well, and take possession of a large quantity of their corn and other pro- 
pertjr, — whilst his cowardly catition or criminal tenderness permitted them 
to rally and in their turn attack his men with impunity, to kill and wound 
several and retake all tlsey had lost. He sent to .fames Town for a reitt- 
forcement, which he did not employ when he received, but hastened thithiar 
himself, cowering under the protection of Smith's prowess, and leaving' his 
men to their fate. \..:'-ii. 

The President set out for the falls a few days after West had departed, 
and found that he had located himself in an exceedingly inconvenient sta- 
tion, subject to inundation, and surrounded by other intolerable incofiven- 
iences. He offered a fair proposition to Powhatan, for the purchase of bis 
place called Powhatan, which he was willing- to accept, but the disorderly 
spirits he had sent thither, who were dreaming that the country immediate- 
ly above them was full of gold, to which they wished no one to have ac-cess 
but themselves, refused the place, or to ratify the contract, despising aliice 
his kindness and his authority. The President with his five men went 
boldly among them, and seized the ringleaders of the mutiny, but the 
Avhole number of a hundred and twenty gathering in upon him, forced 
him to retire, but not without seizing one of their boats, with which he 

* "Had it so been we had been happy ; for we would have trusted them but asojjr 
foes, where receiving them as our countrymen and friends, they did what they coixid 
to murthur our President, to surprise the store, Uie fort, and our lodgin2fs, to usurp 
the government, ard make us all their servants and slaves, till they could coHSUflie 
us and our remembrance ; and indeed rather to supplant us than sujiply us, as master 
WUllani, Box, an honest gentleman in this voyage relateth." — '-Narrative of liJjJkam 
Potts, clerk of the councell, William Tankard and G. P." in Smith's Hist; of Va. 
pa. 243. 



556 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

took possession of the ship, in which their provision was lodged. - For- 
tunately for Smith he was sustained by the mariners who had learned his 
character from his old soldiers, and their own observations of his conduct, 
as well as by several of the officers who had learned the error of theif 
first prejudices, deserted his adversaries, and become his firm friends. The 
Indians came to Smith, whom they considered as their friend and protec- 
tor, complaining bitterly of the maltreatment of the party at the falls, stat- 
ing that they were worse than their old enemies the Monocans, from whom 
it was the duty of the party to protect them, and seeing their turbulent 
disobedience, they offered their aid to chastise them. Smith remained nine 
days longer trying to heal these differences, and to convince them of the 
absurdity of their "guilded hopes of the South sea mines." But finding 
all in vain he set out for James Town. Such visionary and disorderly 
persons were the first civilized inhabitants of the present polished, intelli- 
gent and hospitable city of Richmond. No sooner was Smith's voyage 
commenced down the river, than the savages attacked those he left behind 
him, and slew many and so frightened the rest that they suffered the prison- 
ers they held in custody to escape. The terrified wretches fled for safety 
to Smith, whose ship had grounded, and submitted without stipulation to 
his mercy. He seized six or seven of the lingleaders, and imprisoned 
them ; the rest he placed in the savage foft Powhatan, which from the 
beauty of its position, the excellence of its houses and fortifications, and 
other advantages, was called Non-such. He also satisfied the savages. 
This fair prospect Avas again marred by the imbecility of West, who listen- 
ed to the deceitful tales, and whining entreaties of the prisoners, and- ve^ 
leased them, which again threw all things into disorder; the evil disposed 
being the more encouraged in their mutinous conduct now by the posses- 
sion of their provisions and stores which had been returned to them at the 
time of their previous submission. They abandoned Non-such and re- 
turned to their former inconvenient station at West's fort. Smith finding 
it impossible to restore tranquility, again set sail down the river. 

In his progress an unfortunate accident occurred which deprived the 
colony of his services, and was near depriving him of life. His powder 
bag accidentally exploded whilst he was sleeping, and tore the flesh from 
his body and thighs in a horrible manner. The pain was so acute that 
he threw himself into the river to cool the burning sensation, and was near 
drowning before he could be recovered. He had yet to go nearly one hun- 
dred miles in this situation before he could reach a surgeon, or have any 
soothing application applied to his wound. 

When he returned to James Town, the time for the trial of Ratcliffe 
and Archer was approaching, and these worthies fearing the result, hired 
an assassin to murder him in his bed, but the heart of the wretch failed 
him, ere he could fire the fatal shot. Failing in this, their next hope was 
to save their lives by possessing themselves of the government, but in this 
they were disappointed by Smith, who having in vain urged all those he 
thought most worthy to accept the Presidency, resigned it to Mr. Percy, 
who was about to sail for England but was induced to stay under the pre- 
sent embarrassing circumstances, to prevent the supreme control of the 
colony from falling into the hands of the miscreants who aspired to it. 

Smhh finding himself disabled by his wound, the pain of which almost 
deprived him of his reason, and seeing that there was not sufficient surgi- 
cal skill in the colony to restore him, determined to depart for England. 



HISTORY OP VIRGINIA. 

He Avell Icnevv that in his disabled state the colony was no place for him, 
for it had required his utmost exertion in health to suppress faction at 
home, keep the Indians in awe, and by the most unceasing activity supply 
the colony with provision. He departed under the most mortifying cir- 
cumstances ; — "his commission was suppressed he knew not why, himself 
and soldiers to be rewarded he knew not how, and a new commission 
granted they knew not to whom." After his determination yvas known 
the ships which were to have departed the next day were retained three 
weeks, whilst the niutinous captains were perfecting some colorable charge 
to send home against him. Never had the colony sustained such a loss. 
His conduct and his character will be best given in the language of those 
who knew him best. A writer who was with him in his troubles speak- 
ing of the attempt to usurp the government immediately before his depar- 
ture, says : — 

" But had that unhappy blast not «?iappened, he would quickly have 
qualified the heat of those humors, and factions, had the ships but once left 
them and us to our fortunes; and have made the provision from among 
the savages, as we neither feared Spaniard, savage, or famine; nor would 
have left Virginia nor our lawful authority, but at as dear a price as we 
had bougJit it and paid for it. What shall I say but thus, we left him, that 
in all his proceedings, made justice his first guide, and experience his 
second, even hating baseness, sloth, pride, and indignity, more than any 
danger, — that never allowed more for himself than his soldiers with him ; 
that upon no danger would send them where he would not lead them him- 
self; — 'that would never see us want what he either had, or could by any 
means get us ; — that would rather Avant than borrow, or starve than not 
pay; — that loved action more than words, and hated falsehood and covet- 
ousness worse than death ; whose adventures were pur lives, and whose 
loss our deaths." 



558 



CHAPTER III. 

PROGRESS OF THE COLONY MASSACRE OF 1G22 DISSOLUTION OF THE 

LONDON COMPANY. 

Stale of the colony at Smithes departure,— its conduct and consequent 
sufferings, —Arrival of Gales — of Lord De La Ware, — his departure. 
Arrival of Dale, — Martial laiv, — Gales Governor, — Grants of land 
to individuals,— New charter, — Marriage of Pocahontas, — Friendly 
relations rvith the Lidians, — Subjection of Port Royal ajid Manhat- 
tan, — Cultivation of Tobacco, — Tenure of lands, — Tyranny of Ar gall, 
— Propriety of reform in the gorernment, — Yeardley Governor, — First 
f.olorda.l assembly in 1619, — Introductiori, of wo7nen,—hitroduction of 
negroes by the Dutch i7i 16:20, — Constitution brought over by Sir Fran- 
cis Wyatt. — Relations with the hulians, — Massacre of the 22d of 
March, 162'2, — its consequences, — Struggles bctiveen the king and the 
company, — Commissioners sent to Virginia, — Firmness of the Yir- 
ginians, — Dissolution of the company, 

When Smith left the colon3% it contained four hundred and ninety odd 
persons. The harvest was newly gathered and there was provision for 
ten weeks ia the stores. The savages were in a good state of suhjeeticfn 
and readily yielded at a rea;Sonable price whatever they could spare. All 
things were in such a condition that prudent management might have in- 
sured the most brilliant success, but the wildest confusion and anarchy pre- 
vailed. The new President was so ill that he could not attend to business, 
and twenty others endeavored to hold the reins of government. When 
the savages found that Smith was gone they speedily attacked and broke 
up the establishments at Powhatan and Nansemond, driving in the rem- 
nant of the men their butcheries left, to subsist upon the rapidly wasting 
provisions of James Towa. Ratclifte with a, vessel and thirty men attempt- 
ing to trade with Powhatan was by his carelessness cut off, and he himself 
with all his company perished except two, who were saved by the humani- 
ty of Pocahontas. West with a crew of thirty escaped in a ship to be- 
come pirates.* The miserable company now left without control or 
atithority, and composed with a few exceptions of "gentlemen, tradesmen, 
servingmen, libertines, and such-like, ten times more fit to spoil a common- 
wealth, than either begin one, or but help to maintain one," now gave free 
rein to all their evil dispositions. Each one sought only to gratify his 
passions or preserve his own life, without regard to the wants or sufferings 
of the rest. There was no union, no concert, no harmony. Vice stalked 
abroad in her naked deformity, and her handmaids, misery and famine 
followed in her train. The savages attacked and slew the whites upon 
every occasion, and forming a S3rstcmalic j)]an to starve the remainder, they 
would supply no further provisions ; after they had bought every disposa- 
ble article at the fort, even to most of their arms, at such a price as they 

* Smith in book 4, pa. 2, say.=;, "sailed for England," — ^Bancroft 156, says on' th«' 
authority of Slith— "became pirates." 



HiSTORY OF VIRGINIA. 559 

chose to exact. The coiti was speedily consumed, next followed the 
domestic animals, poultry, hogs, goats, sheep, and finally the horses; all 
Tvere consumed even to their skins. The only resource was in roots, 
acorns, berries, and such other unwholesome stuff as could be found ; nay 
so pinching was the hunger, that savages who had been slain and buried 
were disinterred to be consumed, and even some of the whites Avho had 
perished were used to preserve life by the rest. Of nearly five hundred 
that Smith left, in six months only sixty emaciated beings remained alive; 
and these were without the possibility of support for longer than ten days; 
When Gates and Summers were shipwrecked on the Bermuda rocks, 
their good naanagement saved the life of every individual, and a large 
proportion of their provision and stores. On this island although unin- 
habited, nature was so bountiful, and presented spontaneously such a rich 
variety of productions suitable to the sustenance of man, that their hun- 
dred and fifty men lived in ease and abundance for nearly ten months. 
The disagreeable idea of remaining thus upon an island, cut ofT from all 
intercourse with the rest of the world, stimulated them to the exertion 
necessary to build two barks, with such rude instruments as they possessed, 
from the wreck of their old ship and the cedars of the island. In these 
they embarked for Virginia, expecting to find in the comforts and plenty of a 
flourishing colony ample solace for all their toil and difficulties. What then 
n, ^„ was their astonishment when they reached James Town, after a 
y more prosperous voyage than the}?- could have expected' in their 
crazy vessels, to meet instead of the warm and joyful welcome of their coun- 
trymen, in the full fruition of health and plenty, only the greedy cravings of 
a few miserable wretches, begging for a suliiciency of food to preserve 
their existence. Not anticipating this melancholy situation they had only 
provided themselves with enough provision for their voyage, and were 
unable to releive the necessities of their fellow creatures, whose sufferings 
it was so painful to witness. It was impossible in this situation to re- 
main longer in the colony. All were enibarked on board the vessel?, 
James Town Avas abandoned, and it was with difficulty that its depart- 
ing citizens could be prevented from setting fire to the habitations in which- 
they had suffered so much misery. All the provisions which could be 
raised did not amount to more than would support them for sixteen days, 
at the most limited allowance, yet with this they set out with the hope to 
reach NeAvfoundland, where they expected to be relieved by the British 
fishing vessels. 

. But although it had been the will of heaven to permit the colonists to 
receive an awful chastisement for their misconduct, yet it was not decreed 
by the ruler of all human affairs that the colony should be entirely aban- 
doned, and so much labor and suffering be useless to mankind, or so fine a 
country left in its original wild and unimproved condition. Before Gates 
and his associates had reached the mouth of James river, they were met 
b}' Lord De La Ware with ihree ships, having on board a number of new- 
settlers, an ample stock of provisions, and every thing requisite for defence 
or cultivation. By persuasion and authority he prevailed upon them to 

T in inn T-eturn to James Town, where thev found their fort, and 
June 10, 1610, , , . . ' , ■". . . i • . \. 

houses and magazmes m the same situation ni which they 

had been left. A society with so bad a constitution and such a weak and 

disordered frame required skillful and tender nursing to restore it to vigor. 

Lord De La Ware was fully competent to his station. He held a long 



560 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 

consiiltrition to ascertain the cause of the previous diiliculties, andconeJuded 
after listeninir to their mutual accusations, by a speech full of wholesome 
advice, recommending the course they should pursue, and assuring than 
that he should not hesitate to exercise his lawful authority in punishing 
the insubordinate, dissolute, and idle. By unwearied assiduity, by the 
respect due to an amiable and benificent character, by knowing how to 
mingle severity with indulgence, and when to assume the dignity of his 
office, as well as when to display the gentleness natural to his own temper, 
he gradually reconciled men corrupted by anarchj'- to subordination and 
discipline, he turned the attention of the idle and profligate to industry, and 
taught the Indians again to reverence and diead the English name. Un- 

Mi oo tr, 1 der such an administration, the colony began once more 
arch 23, loll,, • uu-ir 

to assume a promismg appearance ; when, unhappily for 

it. a complication of diseases brought on by the climate obliged Lord 

De La Ware to quit the country: the government of which he committed 

to Mr. Percy.* The colony at this time, consisted of about two hundred 

men ; but the departure of the governor was a disastrous event, which 

produced not only a despondency at James Town, but chilled the zealous 

warmth of the London company, and caused a decided reaction in the 

popular mind in England, which was exhibited in the manner in which 

popular feeling delights to display itself, by exhibiting the Virginia colony 

as a subject of derision upon the stage.f 

Before the departure of Lord De La Ware the company in England had 
despatched Sir Thomas Dale with supplies, and it was well he arrived so 
M 10 in 1 ^'^*^"' fo"* '^he company was already fast relapsing to their 
•^ ' ■ former state of idleness and improvidence, and had ne- 

glected to plant corn ; Avhich he caused to be done immediately. The com- 
pany having found all their previous systems of government inefficient, 
granted to Sir Thomas Dale more absolute authority than had been grant- 
ed to any of his predecessors, impowering him to rule by martial law; a 
short code of which founded on the practice of the armies in the Ioav 
countries, the most rigid school at that time in Europe, the}?- sent, out with 
him. This system of violent and arbitrary government was TecommeTid- 
ed by Sir Francis Bacon, the moSt enlightened philosopher, and one of the 
most eminent lawyers of his age. It proves the depth of his sagacity, for 
it would have been absurd to apply the refined speculative theories of civil 
government to a set of mutinous, undisciplined, idle, ignorant creatures, 
shut up in a fort, surrounded by hostile nalion.s, and dependent upon their 
own exertions for support. Surely in such a case a strong governm<^nt 
was as necessarj?^ as in a ship at sea, and more so than in ordinary military 
stations, where habitual discipline preserves order, and ensures respect to 
the officers. 

The governor who was now entrusted with this great but necessary 
power exercised it with prudence and moderation. By the vigor which 
the siimmary mode of military punishment gave to his administration, he 
introduced into the colony more perfect order than had ever been estab- 
lished there; and at the same tirrte he tempered its vigor with so much 
discretion, that no alarm seems to have been given by this innovatioii. 

In May Sir Thomas Dale wrote to England full information of the 

♦ Robe rt.<?on'.s Virginia, pa. 80. 
t Bancroft, l&O. 



• HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 561 

weakness of the colony, bm rc'<omiiicuditig iii slrung uiraa the impoitanre 
of the place. Hi6 tavoiable iepresoiiialion& were lully tontamed by Lord 
De L:i Ware and Sir 'rhoiiiiis Gates. The iiopc-s ol llie conipiuiy were 
resuscitated, and in Auijuft, Gates arrived at Juiues Town with yix s^llip.•^, 
and three hundred etuigrat)i:.>. 'I'he culuny which now tousisled ol seven 
hundred men, was surrendered into the hands of Gates, and Dale by his 
permissioiji made a settlement with three hundred and hfty Qlio&en men 
upon a neck ntearly surrounded by the river, which in honor of Piiuce 
Henry, he called Henrico. . • •. 

One of the greatest checks t^ industry which had hitherto existed in the 
colony was the communiiy of property in, the provisions and stores. TMe 
idle and dissipated seeing that they were to have a full share, had no stifn- 
ulus to exertion, and the induslrious were di& heartened by seeing the larger 
portion of the fruits of their industry consumed by the idle members of the 
little society. So discouraging wa.s this state of things to exertion, that fre- 
quently in the best times, th« labor of thirty did not accompliah more than 
was done under a different system by three. Gates perceived the evil and 
applied the remedy. H» distributed a certain portion of land to each indi- 
vidual to be worked fo^■ his own befletu,, still paying however a small por- 
tion of his produce to the gei>eral store to provide against contingencies. 
This policy was found so advantageous that every encouragement -vvas^lif- 
forded to individual enterprize in the acquisition of wealth, But little re- 
spect was paid to the rights of the Indians, for some depredation or injury 
irom tile tribe of Apamatuck, they were dispossessed of their corn and their 
r.«:bins, which " considering the positioa eomoaagdioiis'* were unceremonious- 
ly appropriated by the English to ihsw gxv-u b.enefit. 

The colony now having extended considerably, ai3umed a more. regular 
\f -hi" If IP ^'^-'^ by pursuing a more consistent system of policy; and 

'''^^ ' beginning to promise permanency, a new charter was 

granted by James. This confirtned and enlarg^ed all. the privileges and ini- 
•munities which had been previously granted, extended the. time of exemp- 
tion from diUiej, and enlarged theix lernlor.y and jurisdiction to ajl islaii.ds 
and seats within three hundred miles of the coast. This included the. n^w- 
]y discovered, fertile Bermudas, which were saoii.^ftersQld by the company 
to one hundred and twenty of its members * 

This new charter made some changes in thexonstitution of the company, 
by giving more power to the comply ..itijell and less to the council; it also 
conferred" the pov/er of raising money, by btttry .fiar the benefit of the cojo- 
-ny, which vvas the first introduction of this pernicious system, cf taxation 
V, ir^i '^^^ England, and which was soon after prohibited by act of 
..larch lb;..!, p^^iiament, hut not until the company had raised nearly 
thirty thousand pounds by the privilege. 

As the new^ system of policy had increased the independence and pre- 
■Eerved the numbers of the -colony, so had it increased its. strength, and the 
-respect of the savages. One powerful tribe now voluntary sought. British 
•protection and became British subjects, another v/as brought to a' close and 
friendly alliance by a tenderer tie tb^n fear could afford. 

Captain Argall'in a voyage to the Potomac for the purpose of purchasir.g 
corn, fell in with an old chief named lapazaws, to whom Powhatan had en- 
trusted Pocahontas, which he disclosed to Argall, and 'offered to sell her to 

*Hohne'5 Am. An. I. 175. 
71 



563 HISTORY OF VIRGINtA. 

him for a copper kettle. The bargain was made, and Pocahonta_s being e»- 
ticedon board by theeunning of hex guardian, was carried off without once 
suspecting the treachery of the old hypocrite. The authorities at Jamestowji 
availed themselves of the possession of this lucky prize to endeavor to ex- 
tort from Powhatan a high ransom; but the old Emperor though he really 
loved his daughter, seemed to be so highly affronted at the indignity oflTered 
him, that he preferred fighting those who had robbed him of his daughter 
to purchasing her freedom. But whilst this matter was in agitation a trea,- 
ty of a diiTercnt character was going forward between the yoang princess 
herself and Mr. Rolfe, a highly respectable young gentleman of Jamestown,- 
who struck by her beauty, and fascinated by her manners so far superior 
to the rest of her race, wooed and won her aflfections and obtained a prp- 
mise of her hand. The news of this amicable adjustment of all difficulties 
soon reached the ears of Powhatan, and met with his cordial approbation. 
He sent the uncle and two brothers of Pocahontas to witness the nuptiii.1 
ceremonies at Jamestown, which were solemnized with great pomp, accord- 
ing to the rites of the English church. From this marriage several of the 
rfiost highly respected families in Virginia trace their descent. Happy 
would it have been for both races, if this amalgamation had been promoted 
by other instances, but this is the only case upon record. This mar-; 
riage secured the permanent friendship of Powhatan and all under 
his influence; and the Ghickahominies, his next neighbors, when they heard 
of it, sent deputies, and submitted by solemn treaty to become subjects to 
king James, and to submit to his governor in the colony, — to pay tribute,— 
and furnish men to fighi ag^nst whatever enemies should attack. the. .cei^ 
ny ; only stipulating that at.-koift«^t(feey should corttiflue to-be governed by 
their own laws. 

No better evidence could exist of the opinion which the colony entertain- 
■ta,o ^d at this time of its own stability and power, than the fact that they, 
■ sent two successive expeditions under Captain Argall to the Fre«ch 
settlements at Port Royal, in Acadia which he effectually succeeded in de- 
stroying. This was done in a time of profound peace between the two na- 
tionsy and the only semblance of right is afforded in the prior discovery 
of the corttinent by Cabot, for the French settlement was beyond the limits, 
of the Virginia charter. As Argall returned he slopped at the port of New 
York, and forced Hendrick Christiaens, the governor of the Dutch colony 
there located, to become a, subject. of the crown of England, and submit to 
the authority of its representative the governor of Virginia, and to pay 
tribute. When Argall was gone, the Dutchman no doubt smoked his. fip^ 
and pursued his trade as composedly as he ha-d before, for no use was ever 
made of this conquest. 

We have already mentioned a partial distribution of knds by Sir Thom.a.s 
Dale, for the purpose of encouraging individual industry; it may be well 
to explain more in detail the tenure by which lands were held by indi- 
viduals. At the favored Bermudas plantation, near the mouth of the Appo- 
mattox, either on account of the greater merit, longer service, or some, fa- 
vorable circumstances attending the expense of the emigration ot the te- 
nants, the lands were held by a rent of two and a half barrels of corn annual- 
ly to the general stock, and one months' service, which was not to be in 
time. of sowing, or of harvest. Those who had been brought over at the ex- 
pense of the company, had three acres of land allotted them and two bushels 
©f corn from the public store, and with this scanty allowance were required 



HISTORY OF VIRGimA. g«3 

ta support themselves by one month's labor; the othei- eleven being required 
iyihe C01npan3^ This species of laborers had decreased in 1617 to- fifty 
four, including all classes; and these were finally released entirely from 
their vassalage by Sir George Yeardly in 1617. The original bounty to 
emigrants, coming at their own expense, or that of others than the company, 
had been one hundred acres of land; but after the colony became better set- 
tled it was reduced to fifty, the actual occupancy of which gave a right to 
a& many more. The payment of twelve pounds and ten shillings to the 
treasurer of the company, entitled the adventurer to a grant of one hundred 
acres, the occupancy of which also secured a right to as many more.* 

The labor of the colony which had been for a long time misdirected in 
the manufacture of ashes, soap, glass and tar in which they could by na 
means compete with Sweden and Russia, and also in planting vines which 
require infinite labor and attention, and for which subsequent experiments 
have indicated the climate to be unfit; was at length directed by the extend- 
ed use of tobacco, in Englandf almost exclusively to the cultivation of that 
jp.^ article. This commoditj' always finding a ready price, and aftairs 
being now so regulated that each one could enjoy the fruits of his 
Fabor, was cultivated so assidiously, as to take ofT the attention of the plan- 
ters too much from raising corn, so that it became scarce, and supplies had 
again to be looked for from England or purchased of the Indians. Tlie 
fields, gardens, public squares, and even the streets of Jamestown were 
planted with tobacco, and thus becoming an article of universal desire it 
became to a great extent the circulating medium of the colony. Not only 
ptivate debts but salaries and officeifs^ fees were paid in tobacco, and the 
statute book to this day rarely mentions the pfeyment of money, that it does 
not add as an equivalent "or tobacco." :-" 

Early in theyear 1614 Sir Thomas Gates had returned to England leaving 
the colony, which then consisted of about four hundred men, under the com-- 
mand of Sir Thomas Dale, who in his tarn desiring to visit England and 
his family, left the colony in 1616 under the protection and control of Bip. 
Thomas Yeardley. "^ .. .-, : ,c.*-. 

With Dale, Mr. Rolfe and his interesting bride Pocahontas sailed, .'©y 
a communication from Smith her amiable and valuable conduct w^s made 
known at court, and every attention was shown her both by the Q,ueenand 
many of the nobility. This excellent Princess, whose deportment -was sd 
fer superior to that which the condition of her race would authorize oneto 
expect, that it won for her universal admiration and esteem, was destined 
sever more to behold her father or her native land. She died at Graves-- 
end, where she was preparing to embark with her husband and child for 
Virginia. Peace to her gentle spirit, her memory will not perish wiiifet 

*Smith, Book IV. pa. 18. Bancroft I. 1G7,— Burke. - 

tNote by Robertson, — "It is a matter of some curiosity to trace the pregress^fthe^ 
consumption of this unnecessary commodity. The use of tobacco seems to, haVe beeii,. 
first introduced into England about the year 153G. Possibly a few s6a-faring persons 
may have acquired a relish for it by their intercourse with the Spaniards previous to 
that period; but it could by no means be denominated a n&tional habit anterior to that 
date. Upon an average of the seven years immediately preceding the year 1623, the 
whole import of tobacco into England amounted to a hundred and forty two thousa-nd 
and eighty five pounds weight. Stith p. 246. From this it appears, that the tx-te had 
spread with a rapidity which is remarkable. But how inc^niiderabk \< th^it r^iianiv- 
ty io -what is consumed now in<^reat Britam !". or-no-wl t^.". v 



564- HISTORY OF VIRGINIA: 

the commoDwealth of Virginia endures, or noble and generous actions are 
valued by her sons, 

Yeardley's administration was similar to that of his predecessors, enfor- 
cing obedience from his own men, and the respect of the savages. He was- 
succeeded in 1G17 by Captain Argall, who was a rough seamen, accustomed 
to the despotic sway of his own ship, naturally tyrannical in his disposition, 
cruel and covetous, in short a person utterly unfit to be trusted with the ad- 
ministration of the arbitrary government which then existed in Virginia.- 
For although we have considered such a government the only practicable 
one which could have been then established, j^et it required the utmost firm- 
ness in the governor, tempered by mildness, prudence and discretion to 
rnoke it tolerable. Such had been the case under the administration of 
Gates, Dale and Ycardley, and under them the colony had prospered more 
than it had ever don^ before; but such was not the disposition of ihis new 
governor. Instead of holding the severity of the laws in terrorem over 
them, and not actually resorting to the extent of his power except in cases 
of extreme necessit^r, he sought to bring innocent actions within the letter 
of the law, which indeed was not very difficult with the bloody military 
code which then existed. These arbitrary exertions of power were princi- 
pally used in the gratification of his inordinate rapacity, which in its indis- 
criminate grasp sought not only to clutch the property of the colonists, but 
also trespassed xipon the pi'ofits of the compnay. Not satisfied with per^ 
verting the labor of the free colonists to his own use or pleasures, he con-- 
sumed the time of the servants of the company upon his own plantations.. 
At length his conduct was, so-.flagitious in the case of one Brewster, w-hfcf 
was left by Lord Delaware to manage his estate, and who only sought to- 
prevent Argall from utterly despoiling it, that neither the colony or compa- 
ny could bear his lymnny. "longer, but he was deposed and Sir George 
Ycardley sent in his place. Yet heconlrived to escape punishment, by thfl 
mismanagement of some, and the connivance of others, and preserved all of 
his ilLgotten booty. 

One of the hrst acts of Ycardly was to emancipate the remaining ser- 
.piQ A^^nts of therolony. The labor now bejng free, each man enjoying 
the fruits of his own industry and anxious to increase hi.s store, there 
was no fear of scarcity, and no time or opportunity for mutiny among the 
scattered and industrious planters. With the increasing slreno-th and inde- 
pendence* of the colony alLfear of the savages had vanished. It is mani- 
fest that in these altered circumstances a modification of the despotic go-- 
vernment ought to have been made, because its severity was no longer .ne'-' 
cessary, and whilst the power existed it might he abused, as the colony se- 
riously experienced in the case of Argall. The only use of government is 
to insure the safety of the state from external foes, to secure justice and the 
free disposition of person and property to each individual, and sometimes to 
aid in the prosecution of such objects of general utility as individual enter- 
prize cannot accomplish. The moment the colonists began to take an in- 
terest in the country, by the enjoyment of their own labor, and the posses-, 
sion of property, it was right that they should have some share in that go- 
vernment, in the prudent conduct of which they were most interested.- — 
Ycardley was aware of this, for without any authority from home which 



*The ravages no-K-- sometimes purchaced corn uf the Enghsli, instead of supplying 
them as formerly. ff j s 



HISTORY OF YTRGINIA-. 565 

we can trace* he caljed losrether a General Assembly consistiiiof of tw'o mem- 
bers from every town, borougli or hundred, besides tbe governor and coun- 
cil, which met at Jamestown, near the end of June 1619. In this assembly 
seven corporations were represented, and four more were laid oft" in the 
course of the same summer. 

In this first North American Legislature, wherein was "debated all mat- 
ters thought expedient for the good of the colony," several acts were passed 
which were pronounced by the treasurer of the company to be "well and 
judiciously carried," but which are unfortunately lost to posterity. This 
was an eventful year to the colony, for in addition to their assembly, a col- 
lege Avas established in Henrico, with a liberal endowment. King James 
had exacted £1.5,0!)0 from the several bishops of his kingdom for the pur- 
pose of educating Indian children, and 1 U,(JUO acres of land were now ad- 
ded by the company; and the original de.N-ign was extended to make it a 
seminary of learning also for tlie Knglish. One hundred idle and dissolute 
persons, in custody for various misdemeanors, were transported by the au- 
thority of the king and against the wishes of the company to Virginia. 
They were distributed through the colony as servants to the planters; and 
the degradation of the. colonial character produced by such a process, was 
endured for the assistance derived from them in executing the various plans 
of industry, that were daily extending themselves. This beginning excited 
in the colonists a desire for using more extensively other labor than their 
own, an opportunity for the gratification, of which unfortunately too soon 
occurred. In this eventful year too, a new article was introduced into the 
trade of the company with the colony, by the good jiolicy of the treasurer 
Sir Edwin Sandys, which produced a material change in (he views and feel- 
ings of the colonists with regard to the country. At the accession of Sir 
Edwin to office, after twelve years labor, and an expenditure of eighty thou-' 
sand pounds by the company, there Avas in the colony no more than six 
hinidred persons, men, women and children. In one year he provided a 
passage for twelve hundred and sixty one new emigrants. Among- these 
were ninety agreeable young women', poor but respectable and incorrupt, 
to furnish wives to the colonists. The wisdom of this policy is evident, — :. 
the men had hitherto regarded Virginia only as^ a place of temporary so- 
journ for the acquisition of wealth, and never dreamed of mnkinga perma- 
nent residence in a place where it was impossible to enjoy any of the com- 
forts of domestic life. They had consequently none of timse endearing ties 
of home and kindred to bind them to the country, or attach them to its in-. 
terests which are so necessary to make a good citizen. This new com- 
modity was transported at the expense of the colony, and sold to the young 
planters, and the following year another consignment was made of sixty 
young maids of virtuous education, young, handsome, and well recommend- 
ed. A wife in the first lot sold generally for one hundred pounds of tobac. 
CO, but as the value of the new article became known in the market, tlip 

*It is not however probalile that such an important step was taken without authori- 
ty. The assembly seems to have been convened in conformity to principles laid down 
in the instructions to Sir Francis WyaK in 1G"31, and prolmbly was procured at the. so- 
licitation of the colony after the deposing: of Argall. The autliority on which the 
statement that such an assembly was held is Stilh IGO: (See Hen. Stat, at Large, I. 
121.) The acts passed were presented on the 09th of March following, to the court of 
the company for confirmalion, and were pronounced by Sir Edwin Sandys then trea- 
surer, to be well and judiciously formed: See abo Smith, vol. IT. 30, for an account_of 
this assembly in confrrmaliun of Stilh. 



_Sm HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

price rose, and a wife would bring a hundred and fifty pounds ot tobacco. 
A debt for a wife wtis of higher dignity than other debts, and to be paid 
first. As an additional inducement to marriage, married men were gene- 
rally preferred in the selection of officers for the colony. Domestic ties- 
were formed, habits of thrift ensued, comforts were increased, and happiness^ 
diffused; the tide of emigration swelled; within three years fifty patents 
for lai)d were granted, and three thousand iive hundred persons found the&t^ 
way to Virginia. ' " •' 

In the month of August of this year an event occurred which stamped- 
j/^oA its impress upon the constitution of Virginia, and indeed of the- 
whole southern portion of America so deeply, that it will be difficult 
to erase it save by the destruction of society. This was the introduction of 
20 A^'rican slaves by a Dntch vess(>l, which availed itself of the freedom of 
pommerce which had been released from the shackles of the company'^' 
monopoly in the early part of this year, to rivet forever the bonds of slavery- 
upon a portion of their fellow-creatures and their descendants. The in- 
dented and covenanted servants which had been long known in Virginia, 
and whose condition was little better than that of slavery, was a small evil 
and easily removed, because they were of the same color and country with 
their masters; when they were emancipated they leaped at once from their 
shackels to the full dignity of freedom. No one scorned to associate with 
them, and no one spurned their alliance, if honorable and worthy in other- 
respects they were equal to their masters and might even rise to distinction. 
But not so to the poor African. Nature has fixed upon him a stamp which 
cannot be erased or forgottea^tihe-badge of his bondage is borne with-hiur, 
when his fetters have crumbled to the dust, the curse of Cain is upon hinn, 
and no one will mingle with him. By the white man he is loved and che- 
rished as a distant and humble dependant, — but he is despised with disgust 
as a companion ; — and the contamination of a mixture with his blood is 
loathed as a deep, endless, irremediable stain. Under such circumstances 
emancipation is impossible without removal, but when and where and how 
js ihis to be effected? This question posterity must answer, — all that we 
pan do is to treat them with kindness and humanity, and this is done. 

The overbearing disposition of king James created a powerful popular 
party in EJngland, which being unable to establish a liberal govern mejif at 
I^ome, was determined to secure for free principles a safe asylum in the col- 
onies. The accomplishi»eaat of .tbiS' determination was accelerated by the 
disposition of the king to intermeddle with this very subject. He was ex-' 
eeedingly jealous of the company, in which the patriot party prevailed^-ajftd- 
suspicious of the liberal principles discussed in iis meetings with uncontrol- 
ed freedom: he feared it as the school of debate, and nursery of Parliamen- 
tary leaders. Upon the resignation of Sir Edwin Sandys of his office as' 
Mav T7 ](\9.0 treasurer, the king determined to try the extent of his influ- 
•' ' ■ ence in the election of a successor to this first office in the 

company. He accordingly sent in a nomination of four individuals, to one 
qf whom he desired the office to be given; hut he proved unsuccessful in 
his attempt at dictation, and none of his nominees were elected, but the 
choice fell upon the earl of Southampton. 

The company having thus vindicated its own privileges, proceeded next 
to guarantee freedom to the colonists, by a constitution remarkably liberal' 
for-tke lime and G4fcumstances. This charter of freedom, the principles of 
which the Virginians never could be brought subsequently to relrnquish,-has 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA, 56/ 

been preserved to posterity in "summary of the ordinance and constitution 
of the treasurer, council and company in England, for a council of state, and 
another council to be called the General Assembly in Virginia, contained in 
a. commission to Sir Francis Wyatt (the first governor under that ordinance 
arod constitution) and his council," dated July 24, 1621.* 

/ The council of state was to be chosen by the treasurer, council and cofn- 
p9(\y in England, with the power of removal at pleasure, their duty was to 
advise, and assist the governor, and to conatiiute a portion of the General 
Assembly. This General Assembly was. to be called by the governor once 
a year, and riot oftener, unless on very extraordinary and important occa- 
sions; it was to consist, in addition to the council of state, of two burgesses, 
out of every town, hundred or other particular plantation, to be respectively- 
chosen by the inhabitants; in which council all matters were to be decided, 
determined and ordered by the greater part of the voices then piesent, re- 
serving to the governor always a negative voice. "And this General As- 
sembly was. to have full power, to treat, consult and conclude, as well of all 
emergent occasions concerning the public weal of the said colony, and every 
part thereof,, as also to make, ordain and enact such general laws and or- 
ders, for the behoof of said colony, and the good government thereof, as from 
time to time might seem necessary." 

The General Assembly and council of state were sequired to imitate and 
follow the policy of the form of government, laws, customs and manner of 
trial, and of the administration of justice, used in the realm of England, as 
near as might be, as the company itself was required to do, by its charter. 
Nahlawor ordinance was to continue in forise.jftj; validity unless it was so- 
lemnly ratified in a general quarterly court of the company, and returned 
under seal ; and it was promised that as soon as the government of the colo- 
ny should once have been well framed and settled, that no orders of court 
should afterwards bind the colony, unless they were ratified in the same 
manner by the General Assembly. ■ - 

Thus were the elements of a free government established, at the arrivnl 
of Sir Francis Wyatt, on a soil from which they were never to be eradicated, 
in less than one year from the time when domestic slavery was instituted in 
the same place, on a footing which promises equs^l permanence. 

When Sir Francis arrived he found that negligence and security amongst 
the colonists, which is the inevitable consefjuence of a long peace. Old 
Powhatan had died in 1618, honojedvb)E.i^*eiesteti» and respect of all who 
knew him,^his own people, holding in grateful remembrance his prowess 
ajttiL-poli&y in youth, and his mildness in age, — and his English friends and 
brethren admiring his firm support of his dignity, his paternal afTection, his 
mild simplicity, and his native intelligence. He was succeeded in his-pow- 
erby Opechaneanough his younger brother, who was cunning, treacher- 
ous, revengeful and cruel. He renewed the former treaties, with every as-, 
surance of good faith, and wore the mask of peace and friendship so suc- 
cessfully as completely to lull the whites to security. But this crafty 
prince bad always viewed with peculiar jealousy and hate the progress of 
the colony. He had given much trouble, and engaged in frequent hostili- 
ties, whilst he was king of Pamunkee, and it was not to be supposed thaii 
he would patiently submit to the continued and rapid encroachments of the 
whites upon his lands, to the entire extermination or banishment of his peo. 

.♦See HeBiuOg's Stat, at Large^ tol, L p, 113, 



508 HISTORY OF VmGINIA. 

pie, now that he possf'ssed the empire of bis brother. But to meet tjiern in 
the fieJd was impossible, the disparity in arms was too great, and the„r5pm- 
■bers in fighting men now equal,* the atlompt would be madnessaftd des- 
-peration, and lead to that extermination ol his race which he wisiie'd' to 
avoid. His only resource was to strike some great and sudden blow which 
should annihihite the power of the coh:iny at once. He had applied to a 
king who resided ou the Eastern Short', Jo purchase a subtle poisonf which 
gre\v only in his dominions, but this Idng being on good terms with'the 
whites and wishing to enjoy tlieirHrude relused to gralifj'^ him. His ne.vt 
Tesource ^^^s in a general massacre, to take elPect upon all of the scattered 
■plantations on the same day. • The situajtion of the whites favored this de- 
sign, they not only pfaced confidence in the words of the savages which 
had now been so long fai-ih fully kept, but in their weakness and cowardice. 
•They had e.\tended their plaritations over a space of one hundred and forty 
"miles, on both sides of James river, and made some settlements in the neigli- 
borhood of the Potomac; in short wherever a rich spot invited to the culti- 
vation of tobacco, there were they established, and an absence of neighbors 
was preferred. I Tlie planters were careless with their arras, never using 
"their swords, and their fire-nrtus only for game. The old law making it 
criminal to teach a savage the u.se of arms -was forgotten, and they were 
fowlers and hunters, for nmnyofthe planters, by which irjeans the2/ became 
well acquainted wiih ilsv, -ifsk.'. t)f arms arnl the places in \yhich they were 
'kept. One great objtfct with tire settlers, and with the comjxtny, in whose 
•instructions' we find it ptrpetMally enjoiucdf had been the conversion of the 
Indians to' the christiarr^g^fe^^jjQ.^otTo promote this pious object, they Imd 
always been received' irt- the most friendly manner, they becajne riiai'ket 
-people to the phnters, rtad they were feu al their tables, and lodged in their 
bed'chambers as friends and brothers. 

Opechancanough had renewed the treaty with governor Wyatt, and took 
every other means in his power to- avoid suspicion. ITe told a messeriger 
about the middle of March, that the sky should fall ere he would violate the 
iFeaty of peace ; only two diiys before the latal 22nd, the English were guid- 
ed in safety arnl kindness through the forest by the unsuspected Indritnfi, 
and a Mr. Browne who had been sent to live among them to leafn their 
language was sent safely to his friends, — 'nay, so well was the dread seCTet 
kept that the English boats wereborrow-ed to transport the Indians bvef the 
river to Gonsult on the ':'dev4iia&"aau,Ftle'r that ensued,"- and even on the day 
itself, as well as on the ev-ening before, they came as usual unarmed into 
the settlements with deer, turkies, fish, fruits and other provisions, t^',^], 
and in some places sat down to break/ast with the English. The concert 
and secrecy of this great plot is the more astonishing when we reflect that 
the savages were not living together as 6ne nation, aiid did not, haye;,for 
most purposes, unity of action, but were dispersed in little hamlets contain- 
ing ft-oin thirty to two hundred in a company; "yet they all had warning 
given them one from another in all thei-r habitations, though far asun(fer, 
M- -h 09 iroo ^^ raeet at the day and hour appointed for the destrucfron 
-,.-, ^^. ^^ ^^^^ English at their several plantations; some directed 
to one place, some to another, all to be done at the time a.ppointed, which 
they did accordingly: some enteringtheir houses under color of, trading,* so 

•♦Bancroft 193 and references. there quoted. 

tSinith II. 71. .i 

* Smith, vol. 11.66. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 569 

took thp:r advantage ; others drawing them abroad under fair pretences, and 
the rest suddenly falling upon those that were at their labors." They spared 
no age, sex, or condition, and were so sudden in their indiscriminate 
slaughter that few could discern the blow or weapon, which brought them 
to destruction. Their familiarity with the whites led them with fatal pre- 
cision to the points at which they were certain to be found, and that '' fatal 
morning fell under the bloody and barbarous hands of that perfidious and 
inhuman people, three hu.ndred and forty seven men, women and children, 
principally by their own weapons." Not coiitent with this destruction, they 
brutally defaced and mangled the dead bodies, as if they would perpetrate 
a new murder, and bore off the severed portions in fiendish triumph. Those 
who had treated them with especial kindness, and conferred many benefits 
upon them; who confided so much in them that to the last moment they 
could not believe mis:hief was intended, fared no better than the rest. The 
ties of love and gratitude, the sacred rights of hospitality and reciprocal fjrienship, 
oaths, pledges and promises, and even the recent and Golemn profesaion of 
fidelity to an all-mercifal and omnipotent God, were broken asunder or for- 
gotten m obedience to the command cf their chief for the execution of at 
great but diabolical stroke of .state policy With one and only one of all 
who had been cherished by the whites, did gratitude for their kindness and 
fidelity to his new religion prevail over his allegiance to his king, and affec- 
tion for his people. A converted Indian who resided with a Mr Pace, and 
v^ho was treated by him as a son, revealed the plot to him in the night of 
the 21st. Pace immediately secured his house and rowed himself up to 
Jamestown, where he disclosed it to the governor, by which means that 
place and all the neigboring plantations, te '•■vkich intelligence could be con- 
veyed, was saved from destruction; for the cowardly Indians when they saw 
the whites upon their guard immediately retreated. Some other places 
were also preserved, by the undaunted courage of the occupants, vrho. never 
failed to beat off their assailants, if they were not slain, before their suspi- 
cions were excited. By these means was Virginia preserved from total an 
nihilation in a single hour, by thi3 well conceived, w-ell concealed, and well 
executed plot of her weak and simple adversaries. The larger portion of 
the colony was saved; for a year after the massacre it contamod two thou- 
sand five .hundred persons, but the consiernation produced by it, 
caused the adoption of a ruinous policy. Instead of marching at once bold- 
ly to meet the adversary and driving him from the country, or reducing 
him to subjection by a bloody retaliatHjn: the eolonists were huddled to- 
gether from their eighty plantations into eight, the college, manufactories 
a»d other works of public utility, were abandoned, and cultivaliOR confined 
to a space almost too limited, merely tcr subsistence. These crowded quar- 
ters produced sickness, and iome were so disJieaitened. that they sailed for 
England. 

In England this disastrous intelligence so far from dispiriting the com- 
pany, excited their sympathies to such a degree, that it aroused them to re- 
newed exertion, and a more obstinate determination to secure at all hazards 
a country which had cost so m.uch blood and treasure Supplies were 
promptly despatched, and even the king was moved to the genero?.itv of 
giving some old rusty arms from the tower, which he never meant to use, 
and promising further assistance, which he never meant to render 

Serious discussiono now took place in the courts cf the company as to 
the policy proper to be pursued with the Indians, and some advocst^i-their 
72 



570 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

entire subjection, in imitation of the example of the Spaniards, which poli- 
cy would surely have been more merciful than that war of extermination 
\vhich was carried into effect, whether by deliberate design or a system of 
temporary expedients does not appear. Smith offered the company to pro-- 
tect all their planters trom the James to the Potomac, with a permanent 
force of one hundred soldiers and thirty sailors, with one small bark, and 
means to build several shallops ; and there is no doubt but that he would 
have accomplished it, by which means the planters could have employed 
themselves much more successfully in attending- to their crops, than Avhen 
they had to keep perpetual watch, and occasionally to take up arms to de- 
fend themselves, or make an attack upon the enemy. Smith received for 
answer that the company was impoverished, but that he had leave 
to carry his proposal into eflect, if he could find means in the col- 
ony, and would give the company half the booty he should acquire; upon 
which answer he observes, that except some little corn, he would not give 
twenty pounds for all the booty to he made from the savages for twenty 
years. The colonists, although they could not be soon again lulled to their 
former security, speedily recovered from their recent panic, and on July of 
the same year* sallied forth v/ith three hundred men to seize the corn and 
inflict other punishment on the Indians ; but they suflered themselves to be 
deceived by false pretences until the corn was removed from their reach so 
that they got but little ; they succeeded however in burning many of 
their villages, and destroying ratich of their property, by Avhich they said they 
were likely to suffer much during the ensuing winter. We find that a law 
was passed on the following session by the General Assembly, requiring that 
en the beginning of fuly tie-iiCth^ inhabitants of every corporation shouM 
fall upon the adjoining savages as had been done the last year ; and enacting 
that those who were hurt should be cured at the public charge, and such as 
were maimed should be maintained by the country, according to their quality.f 
We find it also further enacted in 1630, "that the war begun upon the In- 
dians be effectually followed, and that no peace be concluded Avith them ; and 
that all expeditions undertaken against them should be prosecuted with dili- 
g-ence.| This state of fierce warfare continued to rage with umnterrupttd 
itrry until a peace was concluded in 1632, under the administration of go- 
vernor Harvey. 1^ In the course of this warfare the Indians were not treat- 
ed with the same tenderness, with which they had generally been beforejj the 
massacre, but their habitations, cleared lands, and pleasant sites, when once 
taken possession of, were gen p*«ii^' retained by the victors, and the van* 
quish'ed farced to take refuge in the woods and marshes. i 

Wbilst these events were transpiring in the colony, an important chalrig^M 
tc.^q the character of their government was about to take place in England. 
The company had been unsuccessful : thefactcould no longer be denied. 
They had transported more than nine thousand persons, at an expense ex- 
ceeding a hundred thousand pounds, and yet in nearly eighteen years there 
Avere onlj'- about two thousand persons in the colony, and its annual exports 
did not exceed twenty thousand pounds in- raltie. The king took advantage 

*Mr. Bancroft makes thi$ the foUoAving j^ear, but if he will look to the date of th^ 
law to which he refers, he will find his error; (1 Hen. Stat. L., p. 123, — Act No. 3'2.) . 
tHenning,vol. I. p. 128. 
tHenning, vol. I. 153. 

§ Burke, vol. II. p. 37. • 

II See an instance to the contrary in the case of the Appomattucks— ante pa. 561. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 67i 

of the present unfortunate state of affairs, to push his plans for the dissolu- 
tioa of the company. He carefully fomented tlie dissentions which arose, 
and encouraged the weaker party; which readily sought the aid of his 
powerful arm. He had long disliked the democratic freedom of their dis- 
cussions, and had of late become envious of their little profits on the trade 
of the colonists, which he felt every disposition to divert into his own cof- 
fers; and determined to make good use of the present state of despondency 
in most of the company, and unpopularity with the public, to effect his de- 
signs. Wishing however to gain his end by stealth, and secret infiuf :,ce 
,P2Q ^vi^^ their officers, rather than by opep, -viok'v:r«, -^he' ag^.is- tiled his 
strength in the nomination of four inoividuals from whom the com- 
pany were to choose their treasurer. But ^^e was again signally defeated, 
and the earl of Southampt'-'" ^^ ^ctt: :" '.j a large majority, the kiag's cajfj» 
ilidates receiving only eight votes in seventy. ■• 

Failing in this, it was manifest that the company was not to be brow- 
beaten into submission to his dictation, and he only considered how the 
charter of the company might be revoked, with the least violation to .the 
laws of England. To effect this with plausible decency some allegation of 
improper conduct was to be made, and some proof ferreted out. The first 
of these objects was effected by two long petitions by members of the Roj'-.- 
al faction in the company, setting forth at full length every evil which had 
accrued to the colony, from its earliest establishment to that hour, and charg- 
ing all upon the mismanagement of the company. For many of these 
charges there was too much truth, and the faults of the company could be 
easily seen after the accidents had happened, ^tut whether they were nc^ 
necessarily incidental to the situation of things in Virginia, or they might 
have been avoided by the king or a corporation differently constituted, are 
questions difficult to answer; but these petitions contained, mingled with 
these truths, a great proportion of glaring falsehood as to the physical and 
moral condition of the colony. They had, been prepared and presented 
with great secrecy; but the company contrived to obtain copies of them; 
and refuted their slanders by the most irrefragible testimony, many facts.be- 
ipg in the cognziance of the members them.selves, and others established by 
the evidence of respectable persons who had long resided in Virginia. 
This mass of evidence was laid before the king, in the vain liope, that lie 
might be induced to disregard the petitions; but part of his object was now 
gained, the charges were made, tiie-oexistep Wjis to procure a semblance ql 
proof; for this purpose in a few days, in answer to the prayer in one of the 
IP^titipns, he issued a commission under the great seal, to seven persons td 
enquire into all matters respecting Virginia, from the beginning of its set- 
tlement. ' 

The better to enable these commissioners to conduct their, investiga- 
tions, by an order of the privy council, all the records of the com- 
pany of whatsoever nature were seized, the deputy treasurer was imprison- 
ed, and on the arrival of a ship from Virginia, all the papers on board vyere 
inspected. 

The report of these commissioners has never transpired, but it was with- 
n I h lfi9^ ^^^ doubt, such as the king wished and expected ; for by an 
' ' order in council he made known, that having taken into, his 

princely consideration, the distressed state of Virginia, occasioned by the 
ill -government of the company, he had resolved by a new charter, to ap- 
point a governor and twelve assistants to reside in England ; and a govern- 



572 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA, 

or and twelve assistants to reside in Virginia; the former to be nominated 
by his majesty in council, the latter to be nominated by the governor and 
assistants in England, and be appointed by the king in council; and that 
all proceedings should be subject to the royal direction. This was a return 
at one step to the charter of 1606. The company was called together to 
consider upon this arbitrary edict, under an alternative similar to the one 
given to witches upon their trial; if they could swim with a heavy weight 
^g.bout their necks, they were burned as guilty, if they sunk and drowned 
th^ were acquitted; the king gave the company the privilege of accepting 
his propdS^ioiraM"?fegY^>Trn^ts charter, or of refusing and having the 
charter annulled. 

The company which had re?used to gratify the king in the choice of its 
ofScers, was less disposed to compij wiii. i\A^ suicidal requisition. The 
astounding order was read over three several times before they could, con- 
vince themselves that their ears infomied them correctly of its purport. At 
length the vote was taken and one hundred and twelve vote-s were against 
the relinquishment, and twenty-six, the precise number of the king's fac- 
tion, in favor of it. The company asked further time for a more deliberate 
decision, as there had not been sufficient notice, few members were present, 
and it was one of those matters of importance which could not be decided, 
by the terms of their charter, except at a regular quarterly meeting; but 
the council would not listen to the proposition, ordering the company to 
meet again in three days, and give a clear, direct and final answer. Ih 
obedience to this order an extraordinary court was summoned, and the ques- 
tion of surrender submitted ij»jth«ar, consideration, upon which only ninedf 
the seventy present voted in its favor; an answer was returned that they 
would defend their charter. The knowledge of these proceedings transpi- 
ring produced a sliock to the credit of the company, which palsied for the 
time the spirit of commercial enterprise; lo remedy this evil the privy 
council declared that the private property of every one should be protected, 
and secured by additional guarantees if necessary; that they should pro- 
ceed with their regular business; and all ships bound for Virginia should 
sail. To endeavor to discover something more authentic against the coaa- 
pany than his secret conclave of commissioners had yet been able to obtain, 
Oct ^^4 Ifi^*^ ^^^^ king now thought proper to send John Harve}^ John 
" " ' ' Pory, Abraham Piersey, Samuel Matthews, and John Jef- 

ferson, as commissioners to CVir|fi»ra; ''To make more particular and dili- 
gent enquiry touching divers matters, which concerned the state of Virgi- 
nia, and in order to i'aciliiate this enquiry, the governor and council of V^jfi^ 
ginia were ordered to assist the commissioners in this scrutiny, by all their 
knowledge and influence.''*^ 

'I'he commissioners early in the ensuing year arrived in ihe colony. In 
1624 '^'^ *^^ ^^'^^ controversjr between the king and the company, the colony 
not supposing its chartered rights were likely to be violated by either 
party, and feeling little interest in the discussion of rights which belonged 
entuel^Mo others, which they never supposed that they were to possess; 
had acted with entire neutrality, and cared little whether they were to be u'n- 
dpr the general superintendence of the courts of the cornpanj^ or a council 
chosen by the king, so long as they r;ould regulate their own affairs by their 
own General Assembly.! 

♦Burk 1.372. 

t The king and company (iuarrelled, and by a mixture of law and force, the latter 

wars ousted of aii their right:, -.vithDUt retribution, after having expended £100,000 



HISTORY OF VIRGFNIA. 673 

texin SQG-h a mood would the commissioners have found the colony and 
tjeneral Assembly, had they not procured copies of the two slanderous pe- 
titions, in spite of all the precautions of the king and the secrecy of his 
council and commissioners. Although they felt little interest in the con- 
troversy,, they felt great interest in defending themselves from defamation, 
and their country from false and malicious representations, well calculated 
to disparage and depreciate it in the estimation of those, with whom they 
Feb 20 ir^4 ^^''^^^"^ '^ ^^ stand fairest. In six days from their meeting 
' " ' they had prepared spirited and able answers to these peti- 
tions; declarnig in their preamble, "that they holding ii a sin against God 
and their own sufierings, to permit the Avorld to be abused with false re- 
ports, and to give to vice the reward of virtue, — They, in the nam.e of the 
whole colony of Virginia, in their General Assembly met, many of them 
having been eye-witnesses and sufferers in those times, had framed out of 
their duty to their country, and love of truth the following answer given to 
the praises of Sir T. Smith's government, in the said declaration." 

They next drafted a petition to the king, which with a letter to the privy 
council and the other papers, were- committed to the care of Mr. John Poun- 
tis, a member of the council, who was selected to go to England to repre- 
sent the general interests of the colony before his majesty and the privy 
council; and whose expenses were provided for by a tax of four pounds of 
the best merchantable tobacco for every male person sixteen years of age, 
who had been in the country for one year. This gentleman unfortunately 
died on his passage. The letter to the privy council marks very strongly 
the value which they set even at that early ^day upon the right of legisla- 
ting for themselves, the principal prayer in it, being "that the governors 
may not have absolute power, and that they might still retain the liberty of 
popular assemblies, than which, nothing could more conduce to the public 
satisfaction, and public utility." 

A contest of wit."? was commenced between the commissioners and- the 
Assembly. The former under various pretexts withheld from the latter a 
a sight of their commission, and the other papers with which they had been 
charged, and the governor and the Assembly thought proper to preserve an 
equal mystery as to their own proceedings. In this dilemma Mr. Pory, 
who was one of the commissioners, and who had been secretary to the 
company, and discharged from his post for betraying its councils to the earl 
of Warwick; now suborned Edward Shnrpless, a clerk of the council, to 
give him copies of the proceedings of that body and of the Assembh'. 
TferS treachery was discovered, and the clerk was punished with the loss of 
his ears; whilst an account was sent home to the company, expressive of 
the greatest abhorrence at the baseness and treachery of Pory. The com- 
missioners finding their secret manosuvering defeated, next endeavored, by 
the most artful wheedling, to induce the Assembly to petition the crown for 
a revocation of the charter. In reply to this the Assembly asked for their 

in establishing the colony, without the smallest aid from the government, King^ 
James suspended their powers by proclamaiion of July 15, 1624, and Charles I. took 
the government into his own hands. Both sides had their partisans in the colony; 
but in truth the people of the colony in general thought themselves little concerned 
in the dispute. There being three parties interested in these sevei'al charters; what 
passed between the first and second it was thought could not affect the third. If the 
kiiig seized on the powers of the company, they only passed into other hands, without 
mcrease or diminution, while the rights of the people remained as they were, . Jeftei"- 
son's Notes on Va., pa. 152-3. 



^4 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

authority to malce'such a proposition, which of course they could not give 
Avithout betraying their secret instructions, and were compelled to answer 
the requisition in general terms and professions. The Assembly took ng 
farther notice of the commissioners, but proceeded with their ordinary. Icr 
gislation. 

Thirty-five acts of this Assembly have been preserved to the presei^ 
lime, and exhibit with great strength, the propriety and good sense witH 
which men can pass laws for the regulation of their own interests and con- 
cerns. One of these acts establishes at once in the most simple and intelli- 
gible language the great right of exemption from taxation without represen- 
tation ; it runs in these Avords : — "The governor shall not lay any taxes or 
impositions upon the colony, their lands or commodities, other way than by 
the authority of the General Assembly, to be levied and employed as the 
said Assembly shall appoint." — By a subsequent act it was declared that 
the governor should not withdraw the inhabitants from their private labors 
to any service of his own, upon any color whatsoever, and in case thp 
public service required the employment of many hands, before the holding 
of a General Assembly, he was to order it, and the levy of men was to be 
made by the governor and whole body of the council in such manner as 
would be least burthensome to the people and most free from partiality. To 
encourage good conduct, the old planters who had been in the colony 
since the last arrival of Gates, were exempted from taxation or mili- 
tary duty. Many acts of general utilitv were passed; the menabers of 
the Assembly were privileged from arrest; lands were to be surveyed 
and their boundaries recoifd*:^^ whif h is no doubt the origin of our highly" 
beneficial recording statutes; vessels arriving were prohibited from break- 
ing their cargoes until they had rejKirted tlieniselves; inspectors of tobacco 
were established in every st'lllcnirnt ; the use of sealed weights and mea- 
sures was enforced ; provision wa.s made for paying the public debt, "brought 
on, by the late troubles;" no jvr.son was, upon the rumor of supposed change 
and alteration, to presinne to be disobedient to the present government, or 
iservants to their private ofllcers, masters or overseers, at their uttermost 
oerils. 

Wise regulations were likewise made to prevent surprises by the In- 
dians; every house was to be fortified with palisadoes; no man should go 
or send abroad without a party sufficiently armed, or to work without their 
arms, with a centinel ofei them; the inhabitants were forbidden to go 
aboard ships or elsewhere in such numbers as to endanger the safety of 
their plantations; every planter was to take care to have sufficient arms aft4 
ammunition in goqd order; watch was to be kept by night; and no planter 
was to suffer powder to be expended in amusement or entertainments. To 
promote corn-planting, and ensure plenty of provision, no limit was fixed 
to its price; viewers were appointed to see that every man planted a .suffi- 
ciency for his family, and all trade with the .savages for corn was strictly 
prohibited. . 

Having thus given a specimen of colonial spirit, and colonial legislation, 
we return to the little intrigues of James, who was striving by every means 
in his power to become possessed of the control of the colony; partly to 
gratify his love of arbitrary authority and of money, and partly to gratify 
his Toyal self-complacency by framing a code of laws, for a people with 
whose character and condition he was utterly unacquainted, and who from 
the specimens recently given appeared to be fully competent to the manage- 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 575 

inent of their own affairs, witliout the dictation or advice of this royal guaf- 
dian; who wliile he displaj'ed tlie craft without the talent of a I'hilip, aspired 
to the character of a Solon. The recent acts ot the king led to a solemn 
council of the company on the state of their affairs, in which they confirm- 
ed by an overwhelming majority the previous determination to defend their 
charter, and asked for a restitution of their papers for the purpose ot pre- 
paring their defence. This request was pronounced reasonable by the at- 
torney general, and complied with. Whilst these papers were in the hands 
of the company, they were transcribed, and the copy has been fortunately 
preserved, and presents a faithful record of many portions of Virginia his- 
tory which it would be otherwise impossible to elucidate.* 

The king had caused a quo warranto to be issued against the company 
N in \r9l ^°°" after the appointment of his commissioners to go to 
L<}v. lU, 10^4, yjj.gij^;jj^ j^j^j the cause was tried in the King's Bench, in' 
Trinity Term of 1624. A cause which their Royal master had so much 
at heart could not long be doubtful with judges entirely dependent upon hi& 
will for their places; it is even credibly reported that this important case, 
whereby the rights of a powerful corporation u-ere divested, and the pos.si- 
bility of remuneration for all of their trouble and expense forever cut off, 
was decided upon a mere technical question of special pleading!* 

In the mean time the commissioners had returned, and reported very fa- 
vorably of the soil and climate of Virginia, but censuring deeply the con- 
duct of the company, — recommending the gov(rnment of the original char- 
ter of 1G06, and declaring that a body so large and so democratic in its 
forms as the company, could never jier-severe in. a consistent course of poli- 
cy, but must veer about as the different foctioris should prevail. In this it 
must be admitted that there was much truth, and all hopes of profit having^ 
for some time expired, and the company only being kept up by the distin- 
guished men of its members, from patriotic motives and as an instrument 
of power for thwarting the king, in which capacity its present unpopulari- 
ty rendered it of little use, — it was now suffered to expire under the jridi 
cial edict, without a groan. The expiration of the charter brought litfle 
immediate charge to the actual government of the colony, — a large com- 
mittee was formed by the king, consisting principally of his privy council,' 
to discharge the functions of the extinct company; Sir Francis Wyatt was 
reappointed governor, and he and his council only empowered to govern 
"as fully and amply as any governor and coiincii resideiit there, at any time 
within the space of five years last past:"-— wfeicfi was the exact period of 
their representative government. The king in appointing tTie council in 
Tiirgmia, refused to appoint embittered partisans of the court faction, but 
formed the government of men of moderation. 

So leaving Virginia free, whilst his Royal H'ghness is graciously pleas- 
ed to gratify his own vanity in preparing a new code of laws to regulate- 
her aflfairs, we pass on to a new chapter. 

♦Burk, pa. 274-5. Stith compiled lii.s historv principally from these docnments. 

tNote to Bancroft, pa. 207. Stitli, pa. 329, '330, doubts if judgment ^vas passed. 
The doubt may be removed. " Before the end of the same term, a judgment was de- 
clared by the Lord Chief Juitice Lev, against the company and their charter, only 
upon failer or mistake in pleading." ' See a Short Collection of the most Remarkable 
Passages from the Original to the Dissolution of the Virginia Company. Londnti., 
1651, pa. 15. See also Hazard V. I- pa. 19; Chalmer's, pa. 62; Proud's Pennsylvania, 
V.-l. pa. 107. 



576 



CHAPTER IV. 

PROGRKSS OF THK COLONY FROM THE DISSOLUTION OF THE LOMSON 
COMPANY, TO THE BREAKING OUT OF BACON's REBELLION IN 1675. 

Accession of Charles I., — Tobacco trade, — Yeardlcy gorcrjior, — his covi- 
mlssion favorable — his death and character,- — Ltord Baltimore'' s recep- 
tion, — Slate of religion, — legisloJiofi upon the subject, — Ini-itation to 
the Puritans to stttle on Delaware bay, — Harvey governor, — Error 
with regard to his early adniiiiist ration, — Dismemberment of the colt)- 
ny, — Grant of Carolina and Maryland, — probable cause of discotitent, 
— Harvey deposed — restored, — Wyatt governor, — Acts of the Legisla- 
tui-e improperly censured, — Berkeley governor, — Indian rclations,^-r 
Opchancanough prisoner — his death,— Change of govcrnvient in Eng- 

- land, — Fleet and army sent to reduce Virginia, — Preparation for de- 
fence by Berkeley, — Agreement entered into betiveen the colony and the 
commissioners of the commonwealth, — Indian hostilities, — Mattheivs 

• elected governor, — Dijiculties between the governor and the legislature 
— adjusted, — State of the colony and its trade,-"— Commissioners sent 
to England, — The Restoration,- — General legislation. 

The dissolution of tlie London Company was soon followed by the death 

Mar h 27 \C^' '^^ Jatries, and the accession of his son Charles I. The 

' ■ "* ■ king troubled himsolf little about the political rights and 

f»rivileges of the colony, and suffered them to grow to the strength of estab- 
ished usage by his wholesome neglect; whilst he was employed in obtaining 
a monopoly of their tobacco. This valuable article, the use of which ex- 
tended with such unaccountable rapidity, had early attracted the aviditj^ of 
•king James. The 19th article of the charter of 1609 had exempted th.e 
company, their agents, factors and assignees from the payment of all sub- 
sidies and customs in Virginia for the space of one and twenty years, and 
from all taxes and impositions forev-er, upon any goods imported thitker, 
or exported thence into any of the realms or dominions. of England ; ex- 
cept the five per cent usual by the ancient trade of merchants.* But not- 
withstanding tiiB express words of this charter, a tax was laid by the farm- 
ers of the customs in the year 1G20 upon the tobacco of the colony ; which 
was not only high of itself, but the more oppressive because it laid the 
same tax upon Virginia and Spanish tobacco, when the latter sold in the 
market for three times the price of the former. In the same year, the same 
prince was guilty of another violation of the charter in forcing the com- 
pany to bring all of their tobacco into England ; Avhen he found that a 
portion of their trade had been diverted into Holland, and establishments 
made at Middleburg and Flushing. The charters all guaranteed to the 
colony all of the rights, privileges, franchises, and immunities of native 
born Englishmen, and this act of usurpation was the first attempt on the 
part of the mother country to monopolize the trade of the colony. The 
next year the king, either his avidity being unsatisfied, or not liking the 

♦ Henning St. at L. v. 1. p. 94. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 677 

usurped and precarious tenure by which his gains were held, inviegled the 
Virginia and Somer's Isle's company into an arrangement, by which they 
were to become the sole importers of tobacco; being bo'^nd however to import 
not less than forty nor more than sixty thousand pounds of Spanish varinas, 
and paying to the king in addition to tlie six pence duty before paid, one- 
third part of all the tobacco landed in the realms. The king on his part 
was to prohibit all other importation and all planting in England and Ire- 
land; and that which was already planted was to be confiscated. 

When the company petitioned Parliament to prolong its existence in 
opposition to the efforts of the king, they failed, — but that portion of their 
petition which asked for the exclusive monopoly of tobacco to Virginia 
o c,n ten A ^nd the Somer Isles, was granted, and a royal proclamation 

"■ ' ■ issued accordingly ; whether this exclusiveness was under- 

stood with the limitation in the previous contract between the king and the 
two companies, it is impossible to say, as the original documents are not 
accessible to the writer.* But the probabilities are greatly against the 
limitation. 

Charles had not been long on the throne before he issued a proclamation 
A -'l o i'"9'' confirming the exclusive privileges of the Virginia and 
pii , oo. ggi^gj. jy[gg tobacco, and prohibiting a violation of their 
monopoly, under penalty of censure by the dread star-chamber. This was 
soon followed by another in which he carefully set forth the forfeiture of 
their charter by the company, and the immediate dependance of the colony 
upon the crown ; concluding by a plain intimation of his intention to be- 
come their sole factor. 

Soon after this a rumor reached the colonies that an individual vi-as in 
treaty with the king for an exclusive contract for tobacco, one of the con- 
ditions of which would have led to the importation of so large an amount 
of Spanish tobacco as would have driven that of the colonists from the 
market ; the earnest representations of the colony on this subject caused an 
abandonment of the scheme, but in return the colony was obliged to excuse 
itself from a charge of trade with the lower countries, and promise to trade 
only with England.! But the king's eagerness for the possession of this 
monopoly was not to be b.iffled thus; he rnado Ji formal preposition to the 
colony for their exclusive trade, in much the same language as one trades- 
man would use to another, and desired that the General Assembly might 
be convened for the purpose of considering his preposition. The answer 
VT h 9rt Ifi9^ '^y ^^^^ General As^ienibly to this proposition is preserved. 
Marcti xib, lb-6. j^ ^^^^ ^^^.^j^ j^ strong hut respectful language the injury 

which had been done the planters by the mere report of an intention to 
subject their trade to a monopoly ; they state the reasons for not engaging 
in the production of the other staples mentioned hy the king; and dissent 
from his proposition as to the purchase of their tobacco, demanding a higher 
price and better terms of admission, in exchange for the exclu.-.ivr monopo- 
ly which he wished.! 

In the mean time the death of his father rendered it nece:;ary fat Sir 

Francis Wyatt to return to Europe to att«'nd to hii private affeir?, 

-• and the king appointed Sir George Yeardley his successbr. This 

-■• ♦ Bitrk, 1. 291, and Bancroft 1, 206— quoting Siith, Cobbetf' Parlinment 11) i.aRd. 
Hazard. 
+ Bnrk's Ancient rptoidj Bulk, V. '3. I?. 
t Hcning, vol 1 1^1. 
7-3 



g79 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA: 

was itsell a sufficient guarantee of the political privileges of the colony, as 
he had had the honor of calling the first colonial assembly: but in addition 
to this his powers were like those of his predecessor, limited to the execu- 
tive authorily exercised by the governor Avithin five years last past. Theise 
circumstances taken in connection with the express sanction given by 
Charles to the power of a Legislative Assembly with regard to his prof- 
fered contract for tobacco sufficiently prove that he had no design of inter- 
fering with the highly-prized privilege of self-government enjoyed by the 
colonists: and fully justifies the General Assembly in putting the most favor- 
able construction upon the king's ambiguous words announcing his deter- 
mination to preserve inviolate all the "former interests" of Virginia, which 
occur in his letter of 1627.* 

Thus were those free pfineiples established in Virginia, for which fhe 
mother country had to struggle for sometime longer ; the colony rose in 
the estimation of the public, and a thousand new emigrants arrived in one 
year; which of course much enhanced the price of provision. 

Death now closed the career of Yeardley. The character of his ad- 
NT 11 Ifi9.7 n^iiistration IS exhibited in the history of the colony ; and 
i ov. 14, it) . |.j^g estimate placed upon his character by those who were 
best acquainted with his conduct, and who were little disposed to flatter 
undeservedly either the living or the dead, is to be found in a eulogy writ- 
ten hy the government ol Virginia to the privy council, annotincing his 
death. In obedience to the king's commission to the council, they elected 
Francis West govei-nor, the day after the burial of Yeardley. He held 
the commission until the 5th of. March 1628, when designing to saii-ftiT 
England, John Pott was chosen' fo 'succeed him. f Pott did not continue 
long in office, for the king, when the death of Yeardley was known, issued 
his commission to Sir John Harvey, who arrived sometime between Octo- 
ber 1628 and March 1629. 

In the interval between the death of Yeardley and the arrival of Har- 
'^■ey, occurred the first act of religious intolerance, which defile the annals 
6f" Virginia. 

fjord Baltimore,' a catholic nobleman, allured by the rising reptitation of 
the colony, abandoned his settlement in Newfoundland and came to Vir- 
ginia; where instead of being received with the cheerful welcome of a 
friend and a brother, he was greeted with the oath of allegiance and su- 
premacy, the l-Mer of wl*M'h it waarwell known his conscience would not 
allow hirn to take. 

Much allowance is fo be made for this trespass upon religious freedowi, 
before we attribute it to.a,wilful violation of natural liberty. The times and 
circunistances ought to be considered. The colony had grown into life 
while the violent struggles between the Romish and Protestant churches 
were yet rife. The ancient tyranny and oppression of the Holy See Avere 
yet fresh in the memory of all, its cruelties and harsh intolerance in Eng- 
land were recent, and yet continuing in the countries in which its votaries 
had the control of the civil government. The light of Protestantisin itself 
was thp first d;nvii of icliuioii.s freedom, and the thraldom in which man- 
kind Imd b.'t-ii lif M [,y (.'jlln-lii^ fetters for so many ages was too terrible. 



* Burk, y. 2. pa. 18. 

t Burk, v. 2. p. 23. Heuing, v. 1. p. i and 13. Burk v. II. p. 23. is at a los.s to ac- 
count for the fate of West, 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 579 

to risque the possibility of their acquiring any authority in government. 
Eye-witnesses of the severities of Mary were yet alive in England, and 
doubtless many of the colonists had heard fearful relations of the religious 
sutferings during her reigu, probably some had suffered in their own fami- 
lies; most of them had emigrated whilst the excitement against the Papists 
was still raging in England with its greatest fury, and continually kept in 
action by the discovery or pretended discovery of Popish plots to obtain 
possession of the government. Was it wonderful then that a colony which 
W4th a remarkable uniformity of sentiment professed a difTerent religion, 
should be jealous of a faith which sought by every means in its power to 
obtain supreme control, and used that control for the extermination, by the 
harshest means, of all other creeds ? 

The colony in Virginia was planted when the incestuous and monstrous 
connection of church and state had not been severed in any civilized coun- 
try on the globe; — at a period when it would have been hei'esy to attempt 
such a divorce, because it required all the aid of the civil power to give 
men sufficient freedom to "profess and by argument to maintain" any other 
creed than one, — and that one the creed of Rome. The anxiety of the 
British government upon this subject, so far from being unnatui-al was 
highly laudable, since all its efforts were necessary to sustain its new-boi:n 
power of professing its own creed. The awful effect of Catholic supre- 
macy, displayed in a neighboring kingdom, afforded a warning too terrible* 
to be easily forgotten, and it would have been as unwise to allow the 
Catholics equal civil privileges at that day, as it would be impolitic and 
•ttujast now to exclude them. We find this regard for religious freedofn, 
(for eiiianeipation from the Pope's authority was a great step in religious 
freedom,) carefully fostered in the colonies. Every charter requires the 
establishment of the church of England, and authorises the infliction . of 
punishment for drawing ofT the people from their religion, as a matter of 
equal importance with their allegiance. For at that period before any im- 
portant differences between the Protestants had arisen, when but two reli- 
gions were struggling for existence, not to be of the church of England 
was to be a Papist, and not to acknowledge the secular supremacy of the 
King, was to bow to the authority of the Pope. The catholics as the only 
subject of terror, were the only subjects of intolerance; no sufficient num- 
ber of dissenters had availed themselves of the great example of Prott^i- 
tantism in rejecting any creed which did not precisely satisfy their con- 
sciences, to become formidable to mother church ; nor had she grown so 
§tro.ng and haughty in her new-fledged power as to level her blows a^.any 
but her first great antagonist.! 

The colony in Virginia consisted of church of England men, and many 
of the first acts of their Legislature relate to provision for the church. 
Glebe lands were early laid ofC, and livings provided. The ministers were 
considered not as pious and charitable individuals, but as officers of the 

* The mas.sacre of the Protestants by the Catholics on St. Bartholomew's dq.y, in 
France, in 1572, 

t The perseciUion of the Puritans was an exception to this. They were persecu- 
ted with considerable rigor, but their numbers were small, consisting only of two 
churches, and most of those who then existed went to Holland with their leaders 
John Robinson and William Brewster, in 1607 and 8, and settled in Amsterdam, 
whence they removed to Leyden in 1609, whence they sailed to America in 1620, 
and landed in Cape Cod Harbor on the 7th of November, and settled Plynioiith on 
the 31st of December following. — Holmes' Am. An. 156 — 203. 



580 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

state, bound to promote the true faith and sound morality by authority of- 
the communiiy, by which they were paid and to which they were held 
responsible for the perform.ance of their duty. The very first act of As- 
sembly, vvhich was passed, required that in every settlement in which the 
people met to worship God, a house should be appropriated exclusively to 
that purpose ; and a place paled in to be used solely as a burying ground; 
the second act imposed the penalty of a pound of tobacco for absence from 
divine service on Sunday without sufficient excuse, and fifty pounds for a 
month's absence; the third required uniformity, as near as might be, with 
the canons in England; the fourth enjoined the observance of the holy 
days, (adding the 22d March, the day of the Massacre to the number) dis- 
pensing with some 'by reason of our necessities;' the fillh punished any 
minister absenting himself from his church above two months in the year 
with forfeiture of half of his estate, — and four months, his whole estate 
and curacy ; the sixth punished disparagement of a minister; the seventh 
prohibited any man from disposing of his tobacco or corn until the minis- 
ter's portion was first paid.* This sacred duty discharged, the Assembly 
next enact salutary regulations for the state. We find at the session of 
1629 the act requiring attendance at church on the Sabbath specially en- 
forced, and a clause added forbidding profanation of that day by travelling 
or work; also an act declaring that all those who work in the ground shall 
pay tithes to the minister. We find requisition of uniformity with the 
canons of the English church not only repeated in every new commission 
from England, but re-enacted by the Legislature of 1629-30, and in 1631-2, 
as well as in the several revit^als, of the laws. In the acts of 1631-2, we 
find many acts conveying the idea advanced of ministers being considered 
public officers ; and churchwardens required to take an oath to present 
offences against decency or morality, which made them in efiect censors of 
the public morals. In these acts it is made the duty of ministers to teach 
children the Lord's prayer, commandments, and the articles of faith; also 
to attend all persons dangerously sick, to instruct and comfort them in their 
distress; to keep registers of christening, marriages and deaths; and to 
preserve in themselves strict moral conduct, as an advancement to religion 
and an example to others. We find also frequent acts passed providing for 
the payment of the ministers, until the session of 1657-8, when church 
and state seem to have been effectually divorced ; for though no act of re- 
ligious freedom was passed, but all were still expected, rather than com- 
pelled, to conform to the church of England, yet the compulsory payment 
of ministers was abandoned, and all matters relating to the church were 
left entirely to the control of the people.! 

From the review which we have given of the religious condition of 
England and the colony, it must be manifest that the tender of the oath of 
supremacy to Lord Baltimore was not only a religious but a civil duty in 
the council, which they could by no means have omitted without a viola- 
tion of their own oaths, laws and charters. But if any further proof were 
necessary, to show that it flowed from this source and not from a disposi- 
tion to religious intolerance, — it is afforded by the liberal invitation given 
in the instructions to Captain Bass to the Puritans who had settled at New 
Plymouth, to desert their cold and barren soil and come and settle upon 
Delaware Bay, which was in the limits of Virginia. J 

*Hening, V. 1. p. 121-4. 1 1st Hening, 433. 

^ Burk, V. II. p. 3-2. on authoiity of ancient records. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 581 

Harvey met his first General Assembly in March, and its acts as those 
iroq ot'sev^eral succeding sessions, only consist of the usual business acts of 
the colony. We have now approached a period in our history, upon 
which the few scattered and glimmering lights which exist, have rather served 
to mislead than to guide historians. It is a period replete with charges made 
by historians, of the most heinous character against the governor, with no 
evidence upon record to support them. The truth is that Sir John Harvey 
was deposed and sent home by the colony for some improper conduct, but 
what that was, does not fully appear, and historians seem to have thought 
it their duty to supply the defect in the record, by abusing his administra- 
tion as arbitrary and tyrannical from the first; tlie charge is without evi- 
dence, and every probability is against its truth. During the whole of his 
administration the General Assembly met and transacted their business as 
usual. The fundamental laws which they had passed to which we hav6 
before referred, restraining the powers of the governor, and asserting the 
powers of the Assembly, were passed again as of course. I'here could 
manifestly be no oppression from this source. The General Assembly or- 
dered the building efforts, made the contracts, provided the payments, pro- 
vided garrisons and soldiers for the field when necessary, and disbanded 
them when the occasion for their services had ceased.* The Assembly and 
the soldiers were planters and they could be little disposed to oppress them- 
selves, their families and friends. The only evidence which exists against 
Harvey is the fact of his being deposed, and sent home with commissioners 
to complain of his conduct to the king, but this did not occur until 1635, 
after the extensive grants had been made to I^ord Baltimore and others, 
which dismembered the colony, and we're so displeasing to the planters; and 
we shall see that aid or connivance in these grants were the probable 
causes of Harvey'.s unpopularity. Burke supports his charge of attempted 
speculation and tyranny, upon the fact that the assembly of 1C31, provided, 
against the raising or expending of money, or levying men without the 
consent of the assembly; but this was a mere re-enactment of the laws o( 
1 623-4, which we have seen, and which were passed undet the popular admin- 
istration of Wyatt, and seem to have been very justly looked upon by the legis- 
lature as fundamental laws.f The same remark applies to the provision of 
security for the Burgesses from arrest, — that was provided in the first set of 
laws of wliich we have any record. Since Burke has committed such an 
error, whilst he finds great fiiult with those who went before him, it will be 
unnecessary here to notice the wild and urifoun"ded speculations in which 
his predecessors indulged. J 

*1 Hening 140, 1, 2, 3. 150, 130. 171. 2, 5, 7, 9, 180. 202. 

t These frequent repetitions so far from being a special blow at Harvey, was a 
mere matter of course, " it was cu.stomary too to repeal all former laws at each ses- 
.sion, and either re-enact them in the very same words of the act repealed, or with 
.such amcndmenl.s as experience might suggest." Hening, preface, p. VI. 

tRobert.son evidently does not perceive the distinction between taxing the produce 
of the colony upon its arrival in England, which they could not prevent, and laying 
taxes on them at home to which their legislature never would lend its sanction, or the 
people peaceably .submit. He also includes in his censure the popular Yeardley, as 
suppressing those very assemblies which he was the first to estal)lish, and which eulo- 
gised him after his death, — He says, " from the tenor of the king's commission, as 
well as from the known spirit of his policy, it is apparent, that he intended to vest 
every power of government, both legislative and executive in the governor and coun- 
cil, without recourse to the representatives of the people, as possessing a right to enact 
laws for the community, or to impo.se taxes upon it." How can this be said of the 
commission referring to the executive authority of the "five years last past" during 
which the Assembly had ruled every thing! 



582 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

The first act of tyranny towards the colony which we find recorded 
against Charles, was his grant in 1G30 to Sir Robert Heath of a large por- 
tion of the lands of the colony ; commencing at the 36th degree of latitude^ 

" Yeardly and his council, who seem to have been fit instncnicnts for carryipg thjs 
system of arbitrary rule into execution, did not fail to put such a construction on the 
words of their commission as was most favorable to their own jurisdiction. During 
a greater part of Charles's reign, Virginia knew no other law than the will of the so- 
vereign. Statutes were published, and taxes imposed, without once calling the rep- 
resentatives of the people to authorize them by their sanction. At the same time that 
the people were bereaved of political rights which they deemed essential to freemen 
and citizens, their private property was violently invaded. A proclamation was is- 
sued, by which under pretexts equally absurd and frivolous, they were prohibited from 
.selling tobacco to any person but certain commissio)iers appointed by the king to buy 
it on his account." Robertson's Virginia, p. 107, 8. Again, p. 109, he says " the 
murmurs and complaints which such a system of administration excited, were aug- 
mented by the vigour with which Sir John Harvey, who succeeded Yeardly in the 
government of the colony, enforced every act of power. Rapacious, unfeeling and 
haughty, he added insolence to oppression, and neither regarded the sentiments, nor 
listened to the remonstrances of the people under his command. The colonists, far 
from the seat of government and overawed by authority derived from a royal com- 
mission, submitted long to his tyranny and exactions. Their patience was at last ex- 
hausted, and in a transport of popular rage they seized their governor and sent him a 
prisoner to England, accompanied by two of their number," &c. To say nothing 
where there is no authority for saying anything, is not only excusable, but praise- 
worthy, to give in such cases ingenious conjectures as such may be useful, but to pre- 
sent a tissue of conjectures as facts cannot be excused in any one, and the less in Dr. 
Robertson, as his high character would stamp them with an authority which few oth- 
ers could give. Judge Marshall unfortunately copies Robertson verbatim, thus show- 
ing at once that one great mind has been mislead by his standing as a writer, to take 
that as truth which is not only flrtlltiWn-ited, but contradicted by well established facts. 
As long as Robertson had Smith and Stith to guide him, lie is very good authority, 
but when he is left by them he is at sea. We will conclude this note by a quotation 
of an opposite character from a judicious and laborious modern writer. Bancroft, p. 
215, after asserting that the colony enjoyed during this season, represented as so op- 
pressive, an " independant colonial legislation," he appends the following note : "as 
^n opposite statement has received the sanction, not of Oldmixon, Chalmers and Ro- 
bertson only, but of Marshall and of Story : (See Story's Commentaries, v. I. p. 28, 
" without the slighesf etfort to convene a colonial assembly,") I deem it necessary to 
state that many of the statutes of Virginia, under Harvey' still exist, and that though 
jnany others are lost, the first volume of Hening's Statutes at Large proves, beyond a 
qoestioij, that assemblies were convened at least as often as follows: 
1630, March, H, v. I. p. 147, 153. 
" April, ibid, 257, 

1632, February, ibid, 153. 177. 

1632, Stepl.V ibid, 178, 20-2. 



1633, February, 


ibid, 


202, 209. 


" August, 


ibid. 


209, 222. 


1634, 


ibid, 


223. 


1635, 


ibid, 


223. 


1636, 


ibid, 


229. 


1637, 


ibid. 


227. 


1639, 


ibid. 


229, 230. 


1640, 


ibid. 


268. 


1641, June, 


ibid. 


259, 262. 


1642, January, 


ibid, 


267. 


" April, 


ibid, 


230. 


" June, 


ibid, 


269. 



Considering how imperfect are the early records, it is .surprising that so considerable 
a list can be established. The instructions to Sir William Berkeley do not first order 
assemblies; but speak of them as if a thing established. At an adjourned session o\' 
Berkeley's first legislature, the assembly declares "its meeting exceeding c7i.s/oOT«?7/ 
limits in this place used." Hening, v. I. p. 233. This is a plain declaration, that as- 
semblies were the custom and use of Virginia at the time of Berkeley's arrival. If 
any doubts remain, it would be easy to midtiply arj^uments and references." 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 5S3 

and including the whole southern portion of the United States, under the 
name of Carolina. But as this country was not settled until long after- 
Avards, and the charter became void by non-compliance with its terms, it 
couH not be regarded as injurious by the colony, except as an evidence of 
the facility with which their chartered rights could be divested. Another 
ia.r>o instance of a more objectionable character soon occurred. Cecilius 
Calvert, Lord Baltimore, obtained a grant of that portion of Vir- 
ginia which is now included in the state of Maryland, and immediately 
commenced a settlement upon it, notwithstanding the value which the Vir- 
ginians set upon it, and their having actually made s<jttlements within its 
limits.* William Claiborne who had been a member of the council and 
secretary of state for Virginia had obtained a license from the king to "traffic 
in those parts of America, where there was no license," which had been 
confirmed by Harvey. In pursuance of this authority he had settled him- 
self at Kent Island near the city of Annapolis, and seemed by no means in^ 
clined tamely to relinquish his possessions. He resisted the encroachments 
of Maryland by force. This was the first controversjr between the whites, 
whichever took place on the waters of the Chesapeake. Claiborne wasin- 
dicted and found guiUy of murder, piracy and sedition, and to escape pun- 
ishment he fled to Virginia. When the Maryland commissioners demand- 
ed him, Harvey refused to give him up, but sent him to England to be tried. 
It is highly probable that the conduct of Harvey in giving up instead of 
protecting Claiborne, incensed the colony against him, for they clearly 
thought the Maryland charter an infringement of their rights, and they were 
little inclined to submit to imposition, |i;g8j;ri^y quarter. Burke himself 
who thinks the colony wished Claiborne to he given up to Maryland, says 
that in the year 1633 there was a developement of a land speculation on the 
part of the governor, highly injurious to the colony. "It appears that by a 
collision with the king's commissioners, large tracts of land were disposed 
of to absentees, not unfrequently interferring with the rights of actual setr 
tiers, and involving subjects of future litigation. By this proceeding, the 
colony was threatened with diemeroberment, and the mischiefs were ag- 
gravated by the conditions of those grants, which exempted the proprietors 
from the payment of quit rents. Property con\'<?yed with such absolute and 
unqualified formalities, seemed to give the proprietors the rights of sovereign 
authority, instead of the guarded restraints o^ a fcedal tenure ; and an 
abundant source of litigation was laid up for posterity by establishing an 
imperiv/ni inimpcrio^ within the bosom of the colony." Surely this specu- 
lation was ot itself sufficient cause for dissatisfaction, and renders it unne- 
cessary to look further to account for the conduct of the colony. To have 
the lands for which they had fought and struggled with so much persever- 
ance, and through so many difficulties suddenly wrested from them by an 
act of arbitrary authority ; and their governor not only conniving, but 
making a speculation on the alienation of their blood honght territory, was 
enough to have excited a people to take even more summary vengeance 
than that aiTorded by a trial and ejection from the gubernatorial chair. Nor 
was it any palliation to the evil that few of their actual settlements were 
within the ceded territory, for they had not straggled so strenuously only 
for such small portion of ground as they might actually live upon, but upon 

♦Holme's Am. An. v. I. p. 261, 265. 

t Lord Fairfax held a Court Baron, — Burke v. VI- p. 38, 



584 ftIgTOi?Y Ol^ VlftGr^JIi? 

a grant of a vast territory, Avith all its broad Avattns, magnifirent forests, 
lofty mountains and fertile plains, — a mighty empire worthy of the people 
who had strived so hard to win it. But now the whole sotith was cutoff 
at one blow; the jurisdiction of the upper portion of their o^vn beautiful bay 
which they actually occupied, was torn from them, their territory was se- 
vered into two portions by the intrusion of a new power into its centre, and 
the hardy citizens who had Avon the country and establishtd the blessings 
of a free government, w^ere to bend the knee in feudal vassalage, or surren- 
der their homes and possessions to their new lords, who never struck a 
blow in the acquisition of their vast estates. Virginia sent a remonstrance 
in the name of all her planters, against the grant of Maryland; and the 
privy council unable to deny the manifest justice of their representations, 
but unwilling to offend the king by a decision against the validity of lord 
Baltimore's patent, decided that he might retain it, and the Virginians have 
their remedy at law. The law at that time in the king's courts, in cases in 
wjiich he was concerned being the king's will; the Virginians declined entering 
the tribunal, and making a virtue of necessity, entered into a treaty of ccni- 
merce and amity with their new neighbor. 

The account wJiich we have of the trial of Harvey is extremely meagre, 
detailing neither the accusations or the evidence, but only the facL The 
manner of proceeding however, as it appears on the record, is as little like 
that of an enslaved people as it is like a "transport of popular rage and in- 
dignation." The whole matter seems to have been conducted with calm de- 
liberation, as a free people acting upon the conduct of an unworthy servant. 
The first entry upon the subject runs thus : — -"an Assembly to be called to 
receive complaints against Sir John Harvey, on the petition of many inhab- 
itants, to meet 7th of May." Could as much coolness, deliberation and 
publicity be given to action against a tyrant who had already trodden liber- 
ty under foot, or is a transport of popular rage so slow in action ? The 
tie.vt entry upon this subject is the following: — " on the 2Sth of April 1635, 
Sir John Harvey/ thrust out of his government, and Captain, John West 
ects as governor, till the king's pleasure knowm."* It appears from another 
ancient recordf that before the assembly met which was to have hea^'rd 
complaints against Harvey, he agreed in council to go to England to an- 
swer them, and upon that West was elected governor 

How long West governed is uncertain, but it appears by a paper aniOfT^ 
the records that Harvey was gove4'nor again in January 1636. It appcafa 
that Charles regarded the conduct of the cohmy as an unwarrantable piece 
of insolence little short of treason, and w-ould not even hear them least the 
spetacle of so noble an example might inflame the growing discontents 
in his own kingdom, whi<:h finally rose to such a pitch as not only to take 
the same unwarrantable liberty of deposing him, but even lajd violent hands 
apon his sacred person. He accordingly sent the commissioners borne 
with their grievances untold, and Harvey was re-instated in his power 
without undergoing even a trial. The conduct of the colony appears "to 
have been a salutary lesson to him; and he probably feared that for the 
next offence they would take justice into their own hands; for we hear no 
complaints of him during his adniini.'--t ration, which expired in November 
1639. Sir Francis Wyatt succeeded him. 



* Hening v. 1. 223. 

tLisi of governors: Hcning, v. I. p. 4, 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 585 

In 1634 the colony was divided into eight shires,* which were to be go- 
verned as the shires in England, lieutenants were to be appointed in the 
same manner as in England, and it was their especial duty to pay attention 
to the war against the Indians. Sheriffs, Sergeants and Bailiffs were also 
to be elected as in England. In 1625-9 commissions were issued to hold 
monthly courts in the different settlements, which was the origin of our 
county court system. f 

At the first assembly which was held after the return of Wyatt, several 
acts were passed, which from the inattention of historians to the circumstan- 
ces of the times, have received universal reprobation, but which when pro- 
perly considered, will be found to be marked with great shrewdness and 
dictated by the soundest policy. 

The act declares tliat, " tobacco b}?^ reason of excessive quantities made, 
being so low, that the planters could not subsist by it, or be enabled to raise 
more staple comrriodities or pay their debts; therefore it was tnacted that the 
tobacco of that year be viewed by sworn viewers, and the rotten and unmer- 
chantable, and hoAj tht good to be burned. So the whole quantity made 
would come to 1,500,000 lbs. without stripping and smoothing; and the next 
two years 170 pounds tobacco per poll, stript and smoothed, was to be made, 
which would make in the whole about 1,300,000 lbs. and all creditors wereto 
take 40 lbs. for a hundred.''' By a second act it was declared that, "no man 
should be obliged to perform above half his covenants about freighting to- 
bacco in 1639." Nothing could be more absurd than such acts at the pre- 
sent day, and hence they have been pronounced absurd at that time. But 
jet us look to the circumstances Except the little tobacco made in the 
Soiner Isles, Virginia at that time hatlthe m<*fe»poly of the English market. 
The taste for tobacco was new, existed with few and could not be suddenly 
extended; consequently the consumption could not be increased in propor- 
tion to the increase of supply, but those who used it would obtain it at a 
price proportionably less. Thus a superabundant supply so glutted the 
market as to reduce the article to a price ruinous to the planters On the 
other hand with those who had acquired a taste for tobacco, it was nearly 
indispensable, and if less than a usual crop ^vas made the demand enhanced 
the value of the remainder beyond that of the full crop, hence the propriety 
af burning half of the good tobacco. This s^ms to have been perceived", 
and we have seen no fault found with the first portion of the act, but the 
latter part, forcing creditors to take less than th-eir full dues, has been pro- 
nounced flagrantly unjust. But if thi^lmd tic>rbfeeTi done what would have 
been the condition of the planter ? If he had made a hundred pounds, and 
owed fifty, the burning and his creditor would deprive him of his whole 
crop, whilst the creditor receiving the fity pounds at its enhanced value, 
would receive more than double what was due him. This would have 
been highly oppressive to the debtor, and m.ade the whole act redound en- 
tirely to the benefit of the creditor Whereas making him take 40 
pounds in the hundred, when that 40 was enhanced to more than the value 
of the hundred, was no hardship. 

In the early stages of the colony, the planters wanted the comforts of 
life from England and not money, for money could purchase nothing in 



♦ Viz: James City, H'^nrico, Charles City, Elizabeth City, Warwick river, Warros 
quoyoke, Charles river and Accomaxik. 
tSee Note A it the nid ol" this chapter. 
74 



Mil HISTOIIY UF VIRGINIA. 

America. It would have been wat>tcful extravagance to have brought it. 
The Virginians had but one article of export, — all trading vessels came 
for tobacco, — hence that \Y0uld purchase every thing, and became on that 
account useful to every man and an article of univer.sal desire as money 
is in other countries, and hence the standard of value and circulating 
medium of the colony. We find when money first began to be introduced, 
as the keeping accounts m tobacco was inconvenient to the foreign mex-. 
chants- wha came to trade, an act was passed with the following preamble, 
— " Whereas it hath been the usual custom of merchants and others deal- 
ing intermutually in this colony, to make all bargains, contracts, and to keep 
all accounts in tobacco, and not in money," &c. It then goes on to enact 
that in future they should be kept in money, and that in all pleas and acr 
tions the value should be represented in money. This was in 1633.* 
But it was found so inconvenient to represent value by an arbitrary stand-^ 
ard, the representative of which did not exist in the colony, that anoJ;her 
act was passed in January 1641, declaring that, — "Whereas many and 
great inconveniences do daily arise by defiling for money, Be it enacted and 
confirmed by the aythority of this pi'esent Grand Assembly, that all money 
debts made since the 26th day of March, 1642, or which hereafter shall be 
made, shall not he pleadable or recoverable in any court of JHStiee under this 
government."! An exception was afterwards made in 1642-3, in favor of 
debts contracted for horses or sheep, J but money debts generally were no|, 
even made recoverable again until 1656. || We thus see that tobacco was 
the currency, and an excess as injurious as an over issue of bank paper, 
depreciating itself in the ijiarket, or in common parlance causing eveiT, 
thing to rise. We see moreover tke cause of the excessive care taken m 
burning bad tobacco, since that was as important to the uniformity of their 
currency as the exclusion of counterfeits in a money currency. All the 
viewings, censorships, inspections, regulations of the amount to be culti- 
vated by each planter, each hand, — the qxiantity to be gathered from each 
plant, — the regulations prescribed as to curing it, — are to be regarded niore 
as miyti reguiations than as regulations of agricultural industry. Indeed 
we find the attemnt to sell or pajr bad tobacco is made a crime precisely 
as it is now to sell or pay counterfeit money. i^ This act of Assembly thea 
allowed debtors to discharge themselves by paying half their debts in 
amount, did in efTect make them pay all in value, and can by no means 
be compared to the acts of states or princes in debasing the coin and allow- 
ing it to retain its old nominal valtie, or by introducing valueless paper 
money; in these cases, the debt is paid nominally or in words but not ju 
value, whereas in Virginia it was not paid nominally as it had been corr- 
tracted for so many foujuls of tobacco, but it was paid in /ezfer pounds 
rendered of greater actual value than the debt would have' amounted to if 
paid in founds before the burning of half the quantity made.^ 

* Hening, v. I. p. 216. + Hennins:, v. I. p. 362. 

t Ibid. 268. II Ibid. 417. iHennin^, v. I. p. 152. 

IT We are sorry to see even Mr. Bancroft (p. 218.) censuring this as an act of injos- 
lice, and comparing it with debasing the coin. In order to account for the Act he 
even casts a slur upon the Council and Assembly, and says, " Probably the members 
of -the Legislature and the Council M'cre themselves much in debt." If they had 
passed the burning act without the other clause one might well have supposed tJiem 
large creduors, since it would have more than doubled in value what was due to 
them, whilst the amount in pounds would have remained the same. In short the act 
would have been to make every planter loose the tobacco burned, and his creditors 
get the advantage of the burning. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 5S7 

Wyatt remained governor only for one year and a few months, when he 
was succeeded by Sir William Berkeley. Historians who have not been 
aware of the intermediate administration of Wyatt, and have heard no com- 
plaint of Berkeley, have delighted to deck his character in the gayest colors, 
iacontrast to the black character which they have drawn of Harvty. There 
can be no doubt that he was esteemed an accomplished and chivalric gentle- 
man; but his accession brought no increase of political freedom to Virgi- 
nia, and his commission did not difler from those of his predecessors. On 
the contrary the instructions which he brought, so far from granting new 
franchises, imposed new, severe, and unwarrantable restrictions on the lib- 
erty of trade; England claiming that monopoly of colonial commerce, 
which was ultimately enforced by the navigation act, and which was a per- 
petual source of contention, until ail differences were finally healed by th^ 
revolution.* 

Berkeley arrived in February, 1642; an assembly met in March, and' 
soon after passed a solemn protest against a petition which Sir George San- 
dys had presented to Parliament for the restoration of the company. This 
paper is drawn with great ability, and sets forth the objections to the petition 
in very strong and striking terms. They enlarge especially upon the wish 
and power of the company to monopolise their trade; the advantages and 
happiness secured to them .by their present form of government, with its 
annual assemblies and trial' by jury; the fact that a restitution of the power 
of the company would be an admission of the illegality of ihe king's au- 
thority and a consequent nullification of the grants and commissions issued 
by him; and the impossibility of men, however Avise, at such a distance and 
unacquainted with the climate or condition of the country, to govern the 
colony as well as it could be governed by their own Grand Assembly.f 
The king in reply to this declared his purpose not to change a form of go- 
vernment in which they received so much content and satisfaction. ,' 
Other important matters were settled at this legislature. A tax for l%e 
benefit of the governor was aboli.shed. The punishment by condemnatitfft 
to temporary service was abolished, winch had existed ever since the foun- 
dation of the colony; and this protection to liberty was considered as so 
importar.t to the Assembly that they declared it was to be considered as a 
record by the inhabitants of their birthright as Englishmen, and that the 
oppression of the late company was quite extinguished. The governor 
probably received some benefit "from these considerations, for he is praised 
for giving his assent to an act in which he preferred the public freedom to 
his particular profit. A nearer approach was made to the laws and cus- 
toms of England in proceedings of courts and trials of causes. Belter re- 
gulations were prescribed for discussing and deciding land titles. The 
bounds of parishes were more accurately marked. A treaty with Mary- 
land, opening the trade of the Chesapeake was matured; and peace with 
the indians confirmed. Taxes were proportioned more to men's estates 
and abilities than to the numbers, by which the poor were much relieved, 
"but which through the strangeness thereof could not but require much 
time and debating/' They published a list of their acts in order to show- 
to the colony that they had not swerved from "the true intent of their hap- 
py constitution," which required them to "enact good and wholesome laws. 



♦ Bancroft, V. I. p. 219. 
tHcnintr, V. I. p. -231-4. 



sea HISTORY OF VlR(nN[A. 

and rectify and relieve such disorders and grievances as are incident to all 
states and republics; but that th(-ir late consultations would redound g-reatly 
to the benefit of the colony and their posterity." In the conclusion of that 
list they state that the gracious inclination of his majesty, ever ready to 
protect them, and now more particularly assured to them, together with the 
concurrence of a happy parliament in England, — were the motives which 
induced them to take this opportunity to "establish their liberties and privi- 
leges and settle their estates often before assaulted and threatened, and late- 
ly invaded by the corporation; and to prevent the future designs of mono- 
polizers, contractors, and preemptors, ever usurping the benefit of their la- 
bors; and they apprehended that no time could be misspent, or labor nnis- 
placed in gaining a firm peace to themselves and posterity, and a future im- 
munity and ease to themselves from taxes and impositions, which they ex- 
pected to be the fruits of their endeavors." 

The Indians had been driven back, and w^eakened by a perpetual succes- 
sion of hostilities from the time of the great massacre until the year 1644. 
During the latter years of this period we have little account of their pro- 
ceedings, but the rapid increase of the settlements had driven them from the 
rich borders of the rivers in the lower country higher into the interior, and 
the new grants were every day diiving them still further from the homes 
of their fathers. This incessant warfare, whilst it weakened them as a na- 
^(\Ai ''^°"' '"^"^ incr&ised their cunning and skill in partisan warfare. Ope- 
chancanough, though now so old that he had to be carried in a litter, 
and so feeble that be could not raise his eyelids without assistance, still re- 
tained sufficient strength of mind to embody a combination of the various 
tribes under his control, and make a sudden and violent attack upon many 
of the frontier settlements at once. Little is known of the circumstances 
attending this second great massacre. An act of Assembly of 1645, mak- 
ing the eighteenth day of April a holyday and day of thanksgiving, for 
escape from the Indians, marks the period of the rnas.saCre. Other evidence 
makes the number of their victims three hundred.* The precautions which 
the whites had been taught to take by the previous massacre, in trading with 
them only at particular places, in always going armed, ni never admitting 
them to the same familiarity, effectually prevented them, with all their cau- 
tion in approach, and violence of attack, from committing as great slaughter 
as they had upon the former occasion. The whites do not seem to have 
been stricken with a panic now as formerly, but quickly sallied upon their 
assailants, and drove thejn back so rapidly that their venerable chieftain 
himself had to be deserted by his attendants, and wns taken by Sir Williani 
Berkeley, at the head of a squadron of light cavalry. He was carried to 
Jamestown, and manifested in his imprisonment the same haughty dignity 
which had always distinguished him. He preserved a proud and disdain- 
ful silence, and such indifTerence to the passing scenes, that he rarely re- 
quested his eyelids to be raised. In this melancholy <'.ondition, he was 
basely shot in the back by his sentinel, with whom recollection of former 
injuries overcame all respect for helpless age, or former greatness. The 
only subject which called forth any show of regret from him was a flash 
of angry indignation, at being exposed in his dying hours to the idle and 
curious gaze of his enemies. 

♦Bancroft, p. 224— Burke, V. II, p. r>5, .say.s— on authoritv of Beverley — " five hun- 
dred.'' 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 589 

So little regard was now paid to the Indian hostilities, that on the follow- 
ing June, Sir William Berkeley sailed for England, and the council elected 
Richard Kemp to occupy his post until his return. In the mean time, the 
warfare with the Indians continued without remission. It appears by an 
act of the. latter part of the year 1G44, that many of the inhabitants, proba- 
bly on the frontiers, had been collected in large bodies ; but leave Avas then 
given them to dispose of themselves "for their best advantage and conve- 
nience, provided that in places of danger, there should not be less than ten 
men allowed to settle."* 

Sir William Berkeley again took possession of his government in June, 
O t 'i \CiC ^^'^^^ -^^^ ^'^ ^^^' following year a treaty of peace was con- 
cluded with the Indians, by which Necotowance, the succes- 
sor of Opechancanough, acknowledged that he held his kingdom of the 
crown of England, and agreed that his successors should be appointed or 
confirmed by the king's governor; on the other hand the Assembly on be- 
half of the colony, undertook to protect him against rebels and all enemies 
whatsoever. In this treaty the Indians were permitted to dwell on the north 
side of York river; but ceded to the whites all the country from the falls 
of the James and York to the bay, forever: and any Indian coming upon 
that territory was to suiFer death unless he bore the badge of a messenger. 
The Indians were also to surrender all prisoners, negroes, and arms taken. 
Other articles were added prescribing the form of intercourse.f Thus 
were the Aborigines at length finally excluded from their father-land, leav- 
ing no monument of their having e.visted, save the names of the waters and 

.(mountains, and the barrows containing the ashes of their ancestors. | 

Thus the colony of Virginia acquired the management of all its .con- 
cerns; war was levied, and peace concluded, and territory acquired, in con- 
formity to the acts of the representatives of the people; whilst the people 
of the mother country, had ju,st acquired these privileges after a long and 
bloody conflict with their former sovereign. Possessed of security and 
quiet, abundance of land, a free market for th^ir staple, and practically, all 
the rights of an independent .state, having England for its guardijin against 

.foreign oppression, rather than its ruler, the colonists enjoyed all the pros- 
perity which a virgin soil, equal laws, and general uniformity of condi- 
tion and industry, could bestow. Their numbers increased; the cottages 
were filled with children, as the ports were with ships and emigrants. At 
Christmas, 1648, there were trading in Virginia, ten ships from London, 
two from Bristol, twelve Hollanders, and seven from New England. The 

. BUniber of the colonists was already twenty thousand; and they, who had 
sustained no griefs, were not tempted to engage in the feuds by which the 
mother country was divided. They were attached to the cause of Charles, 
ifiiQ ^^^ because thejr loved monarchy, but because they cherished the lib- 
erties of which he had left them in the undisturbed possession; and 



♦ Hening, p. 285--6. - 

t Hening, V. I. p. 333, 326. 

tl know of no such thing existing as an Indian monument — of labor on the large 
scale — I think there is no remain as respectable as would be a common ditch foi the 
draining of lands; unless indeed it would be the barrows, of which many are to be 
found all over the country. — That they were repositories of the dead has been obviou.s 
to all ; but on what particular occasion constructed, was a matter of doubt.— Jefferson's 
Notes on Va., p. 132. 



59Q HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

after his execution, though there were not wanting some who favored re- 
publicanism, the government re-cognised his son without dispute.* 

The loyalty of the Virginians did not escape the attention of the royal 

|- ifKO ^^'^^j froi^ liis retreat in Breda he transmitted to Berkeley a 

' ■ new commission, and Charles the Second, a fugitive from Ertg- 

land, was still the sovereign of Viro-inia.f ^''^' 

But the Parliament did not long permit its authority to be denied. Hav*^ 
ing, by the vigorous energy and fearless enthusiasm of republicanism, tri- 
umphed over all its enemies in Europe, it turned its attention to the colo-' 
nies; and a memorable ordinance at once empowered the council of state 
to reduce the rebellious colonies to obedience, and at ihe same time, estab- 
lished it as a law, that foreign ships should not trade at any of the ports 
^'in Barbadofs, Antigua, Bermudas and Virginia." Thus giving the first 
example of that wholesale bloclcade afterwards rendered so notoiious by the 
celebrated orders in council during the wars of the French revolution. 
Maryland, which was not expressly included in the ordinance, had taken 
.care to acknowledge the new order of things; and Massachusetts, alike 
unwilling to encounter the hostility of parliament, and jealous of the rights 
of independent legislation, by its own enactment, prohibited all intercourse 
with Virginia till the supremacy of the commonu-ealth should be establish- 
ed; although the order, when it was found to be injurious to commerce, was. 
promptly repealed, even while royalty still flourished at Jamestown. | 

A powerful fleet with a considerable body of land forces on board, sent 
out to bring the colonies to submission, having subdued Barbadoes and 
Antigua, cast anchor before James Town. Sir William Berkeley and Ws 
hardy colonists had not been inactive', the growing strength of the colony 
had recently been increased by the acquisition of many veteran cavaliers 
from the king's army, and k now presented no comtemptible force. Seve- 
ral Dutch ships which were lying in the river, and which as trading con- 
trary to the pi'ohibition of Parliament, weie armed to provide against sur- 
prise by the commonwealth's fleets, were also pressed into service. This 
show of resistance induced the commissioners of Parliament to hesitate, 
before they attempted to reduce the colony to obedience by force; and to 
offer them fair and honorable terms of submission. The terms ofTered be- 
ing such as completely satisfied the Virginians that their freedom was to 
be preserved inviolate, and their present happy constitution guaranteed, 
whilst they were to suffer nothing for past conduct, readily acquiesced, 
since they gained all by such a sljrrender which they could efft-ct by the 
most successful warfare. It appears that they never anticipated any thing- 
more than the preservation of their own liberties from wanton violation 
from the new and untried power which now held the reins of government 
in England ; and could scarcely have been mad enough to hope to effect' 
anything favorable to the king by their resistance. || 

♦Henins:, V. 1, p. 359-60. Act 1. 

+ Bancrott, V.I, 225-6. 

t Bancroft, V. I, p. 226-7. 

II We have differed from Bancr<ift upon Uii.s .subject, who sav.s.j p. 940. "No .sooner 
had the Guuiea frigate anchored in the waters of the Chesapeake, than 'all thoughts 
of resistance were laid aside,' [Clarendon, B. XIII. p. 46G, 467.J and tlie colonists 
having no motive to contend for a monarch, whose fortunes seemed irretreivable, 
were earnest only to assert the freedom of theii' own institutions." There can be no 
doubt but Burke, vol. II. p. 82, drew largely upon his imagination for the brilliant 
colors in which he paints Berkeley's attitude of resistance, the outline of the picture 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA; 591 

The articlcg of surrender arc concluded between the commissioners of 
the commonwealth, and the council of state, and Grand Assembly of Vir- 
ginia ; as equal treating with equal. It secures: — 

1st. That this should be considered a \'oluntary act, not forced or con- 
strained by a conquest npon the country; and that the colonists should have, 
and enjoy such Freedoms and privileges as belong to the freeborn people of 
England. 

2dly. That the Grand Assembly as formerly should convene and trans- 
act the affairs of Virginia ; doing nothing contrary to the government oi 
the commonwealth or laws of England : 

3dly. That there should be a full and total remission of all acts, words 
or writings against the Parliament: 

4thly. That Virginia should have her ancient bounds and limits granted 
by the charters of the former kings, and that a new charter was to be 
sought from Parliament to that eliect, against such as had trespassed upon 
their ancient rights :^[This clause would seem to be aimed at some of the 
neighboring colonies.] 

5thly. That all patents of land under the seal of the colony, granted by 
the gcrv'ernor, should remain in full force: 

6thly. That the privilege of fifty acres of land ior every person emi- 
grating to the colony should remain in full force: 

7thly. That the people of Virginia have free trade, as the people of Eng- 
land enjoy with all j)laces and nations, according to the laws of the com- 
monwealth, and that Virginia should enjoy equal privileges in every respect 
with any other colony in America : ..i^.j^\ : 

8thly, That Virgmia should be free from ail taxes, customs and imposi- 
tions whatsoever, and that none should be imposed upon them without the 
consent of their Grand Assembly. And no forts or castle be erected, or 
garrisons maintained without their consent ; 

9thly. That no charge should be required from the country on account 
of the expence incurred in the present fleet : 

lOthly. That this agreement should be tendered to all persons, and that 
such as should refuse to subscribe to it, should have a years time to remove 
themselves and effects from Virginia, and in the meantime enjoy equal jus- 
tice. 

The remaining articles were of less importance. This was followed by 
a supplemental treaty, for the benefit of the governor and council, and such 
soldiers as had served against the commonw^ealth in England ; allowing 
them the most favorable terms. 

If this was a conquest, — happy would it be for most colonies to be con- 
quered ; every privilege was secured which could possibly be asked, and 
the liberties of the colony were established more thoroughly than they Jiad 

he probably found in his ancient records. The authority upon which we rest is the 
act of indemnity itself (Hening, p. 367.) issued by the Parliamentary commissioners, 
— that act recites that having brought a fleet and force before James Cittie in Vir- 
ginia, to reduce that colony under the obedience of the commonwealth of England, 
and finding force rai.sed by the governor and country to make opposition against the 
said fleet, whereby assured danger appearing of the ruin and destruction of the 
plantation, for prevention whereof the Burgesses of all the several plantations being 
called ta advise and assist therein, upon lorn g and fcrious debate, [during which we 
must suppose the hostile attitude wa,"^ continued,] and in sad contemplation of the 
great miseries and certain destruction, which were so nearly hovering over this whole 
country," &c. — We suppose there might have been also some little danger to the 
commonwealth's men and ships. 



592 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 

ever been, and the conquest was only less favorable to Virg-inia than her 
declaration of independence, by having her rights depending upon the 
pledged faith of another na,tion, instead of having them entirely under her 
own control. The correspondence between the rights now secured, and 
the rights mentioned in the Declaration of Independence as violated by the 
British king, is remarkable. 

All matters were thus happily and amicably arranged, and as Sir Wil- 
liam Berkeley was too loyal a subject to be willing to take office under 
Parliament, — Richard Bennett, one of the commissioners was elected gover- 
nor. A council was also elected with powers to act in conformity to the 
instructions they should receive from the Parliament, the known law of 
England, and the Acts of Assembly, and such other powers as the Assem- 
bly should think proper from time to time to give them. It was declared 
at the same session that it was best that officers should be elected by the 
Burgesses, "the representatives of the people;" and after discussion upon 
the propriety of allowing the governor and council to be members of the 
Assembly, it was determined that they might, by taking the same oath 
which was taken by the Burgesses. The Assembly thus having no writ- 
ten constitution as their guide, took upon themselves the . office of a con- 
vention of the people, and granted or resumed powers as it might seem best 
for the good of the country. 

The whites and the remnants of the neighboring Indian tribes continued 
to be upon good term.s, and the latter were kindly and humanely treated by 
the guardian care of the Assembly, 4 slight irruption of the Rappahan- 
nocks, seems to have been soon terminated. But a new scene in the his- 
tory of the colony now presented itself. The Rechahecrians, a fierce and 
warlike tribe came down from the mountains and took up a strong position 
on the falls of James river, with six or seven hundred warriors. This ex- 
cited no little uneasiness, as it had been very difficult to extirpate the In- 
dians who had formerly possessed the spot. The first expedition against 
them failed, a new one was prepared and the subject Indians being called 
upon for aid furnished a hundred warriors, most of whom with their chief 
Totopotomoi, fell fighting gallantly.* 

When Bennett retired from office, andthe Assembly elected Edward D'gges 

nt i.o«'i,'r~ his successor. The conuTiissioners of the commonwealth 
Marchol, lb5a. ■ , ,...i j -.u . r ..u j . r i7- 

had little to do with controling the destinies oi Virginia, 

but were engaged in settling the; affairs and adjusting the boundaries of 
Maryland. 

The Assembly reciting the articles of Agreement with the commission- 
IVf h\^ IP'S ^''"^ ^^ Parliament, which admitted that the election of all 
iVlarcnio, Ibaa. ^^^^^^.^ ^f ^^^^ colony apptntained to the Burgesses, the 
representatives of the people proceeded to the election of a governor and 
council until the next Assembly: and the choice fell upon "worthy Samuel 
Matthews, an old planter, of nearly forty years standing, a most deserving 
commonwealth's man, who kept a good house, lived bravely, and was a 
true lover of Virginia."! But this worthy old gentleman seems to have 
conceived higher ideas of his powers than the Assembly was willing to 
allow. The Assembly had deternniied not to dissolve itself, but only to 
adjourn until the first of November.^ They then proceeded with their 

♦Burk, vol. 2. 104-10(5. 

tBaucroft, v. I. p. 243— quoiing II. M. Hist. Coll. v. IX p. 119. 

tHening, v. I. 497. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 593 

ordinary business ; making however one important change in the consti- 
tution, which was to roqiiire that all proposiiions and laws presented by a 
bommittee should be first discussed by the House of Burgesses in private, 
before the admission of the governor and council. The governor and 
council on the first of April sent a message declaring that they thought fit 
then to dissolve the Assembly, and requiring the speaker to dismiss the 
Burgesses. To this the Assembly returned for aiif,\ver that the act was 
illegal, and without precedent, and requested a revocation of it, as fhry ex- 
pected speedily to finish their birsiness. The house then declared than any 
member who should depart should be censured as betraying the trust re- 
posed in him by his country; and that the remainder should act in all 
things and to all intents and purposes as an entire house ; that the Spea-ker 
should sign nothing without the consent of a majority of the House, and 
that the members should take an oath not to disclose the acts or debates of 
that body. The governor replied to the communication from the house, 
that he was willing that the house would conclude its business speedily; 
and refer the disfiute as to the legality of his power to disf^otve, to the de- 
cision of the Lord Protector. The House unaniuiou^^iy decided this 
answer lu be unsatisfactory; expressed an earnest desire that public bu;Bi- 
ness might be soon' despatched, and requested the governor and council (o 
declare the house undissolved, in order thai a speedy period might be put 
to public aflairs. In reply to this the governor and council revoked th"; 
order of dissolution upon their proitiise of a speedy conclusion, and again 
referred the matter of disputed right to the liord Profector. The Hous<? 
?t.ill unsatisfied with this answer appointed a fommittee to draw up a report 
m vindication of the conduct of the ASseni'bljrand in support of its povrer. 
In the report the Burgesses declare that they have in themselves fuU 
power of ele.ction and appointment of all ofTiceis in the country, until they 
r.hould have an order to the contrary from the supreme power m England ; 
that the house of Burgesees, the reprrsentativep of the people, v/ers Eot 
dissolvable by any power yet extant in Virginia, 6S< ept their own ; tlrat 
the form.er election of governor and council was nuH, and that in future 
no one should be admitted a councillor unless he wa'« ncminatec, appointed 
and ^onfirmpd by the house of Burgesses. 

They then direrted an order to the shpnfF of Tames City cou^t3^ who 
.wa? their s'^rfreant at-arm?. that he should execute no warrant, precept cr 
command direr tpd to him. by any other pm^'cr or -pprfon than the Speaker 
cf 'he Ho'i.r.p. They then ordered that 'a': the ?upr«==m*= power of • -the 
xoan'ry of Virginra had been declared re-ideni m the Burgesses," the 
secretary of state j^hou.ld be required to deliver up the public records to the 
Sneaker. An oath was prescribed lor the governor and counril" to take, 
and thp rame governor was elected and most of the -iame council. Thus 
were all difTi -uhi^^s ad|visted, and popular ^sovereignty fully established. 

Upon the d'ath of Cromwpll. the Hou?*' of Burg^sr.ef, unanimou?ly re- 
•"o<riii/.ed his sou Rirhard and adopted an addrets pranng a 
Mn , l<3o9 ,.,-,7,firmition of their former privileges, m whi'-h address tha 
c-ovc-vnov was rpquirnd to i'->in, aft^r folernnly acknowleding in the presence 
of the whole .4^sf^mb!\ th^t ihp -.nprcmp power of plf^rting cflRcet^ v.-a5 by 
the present laws resident in the ''ir.ind A-'Hmbly ;* which ^va^ill!fsed ikj 

* Hf-nins, V. I p r»l '. 

75 



50.{ HloTOliV OF VlilGlNlA 

be rrquiiTd for this rcasan, that what was their priviUgc now might Irloiig 
to ttieir. posterity horcaftcr. 

Matthews died, hawing the colony of Virginia withoiit a governor, about 

M 1 i-^T)' ^^^'^' ^^*^'" ^^^'' ^^^^" ^^^^ resignation of Richard Cromwell 
.^.arch, luoU j^j^ England without a head. In this emergency the As- 
sembly reciting that the late frequent distractions in England preventing 
any power from being generally confessed; that the supreme power of the 
colony should be vested in the Assembly, and that all writs should issue in 
its name, until such a command and commission should come from Eng- 
k.'-Ttias shotild by the Assembly be adjudged lawful.* Sir William Berke- 
ley was then elected governor, with the express stipulation that he should 
call an Assembly once in two years at least, and should not dissolve the 
Assembly without its own consent. _ This old royalist probably thinking 
now that there was a prospect of the restoration, accepted the oflice under 
the prescribed conditions, and acknowledged himself to be but the servant 
of the Assembly. 

. During the suspension of the royal govemment in England, Virginia 
attained unlimited liberty of commerce, which they regulated by indepen- 
dent laws. The ordinance of 1650 was rendered void by the act of capitu- 
Ifltion ; the iia-vigation act of Cromwell was not designed for her oppres- 
sion, and was not enforced within her borders. Only one confiscation ap- 
pears to have taken place, and thai was entirely by the authority of the 
Grand Assembly. The war between England and Holland necessarily 
interrupted the intercourse of the Dutch with the English colonics; but if 
after the treaty of peace the tr.ade was considered contraband, the English 
restrictions \yere entirely disi'egarded. Commissioners were sent to Eng- 
,>__ larrd (o undeceive Cromwell with regard to the course Virginia had 
tiiken with reference to the boundary of Maryland, with regard to 
which he had been misinformed; and to present a remonstrance demand- 
ing unlimited freedom of trade.; w^hichit appears was not refused, for some 
months before the Protector's death, the Virginians invited the " Dutch 
and all foreigner.s " to trade Avith them on payment of no higher duty, than 
that which was levied on such English vessels, as were bound for a foreign 
port. Proposals of peace and commerce between New-Netherlands and Vir- 
ginia were discussed vx'ilhout scruple by the respective colonial governments; 
and at last a special statute of Virginia extended to every christian nation, 
in amity with England, a promise of liberty of trade and equal justice.! 
♦'R'tO -^^ ^''*'' restoration*," vfrgTriiaen}oyed freedom &f commerce with the 
■ ■ whole world. 

Virginia was tjie first state in the world, composed of separate town- 
ships, diffused over an extensive surface, where the government was organ- 
r.-'rr ized on the princiiplo of universal sufFrage. All freemen without 
excepcion were entitled to vote. The right of suffrage was once 
j,^_P restricted, but it was soon after determined to be '-hard and unagree- 
able to reason, that any person shall pay equal taxes and yet have 
no vote in the election ;" and the electoral franchise was restored to all 
freemen. Servants, when the time of their bondage was completed, at onee 
became electors ; and m.ight be chosen burgesses. Thus Virginia estab- 
lished upon her soil the supremacy of the popular branch, thcVrcedom of 

*Heiining, v. I. p. 5'>0. 

+ Ibid. V. I. p. 450. Act XVI. 



fTTSTORY OF VIRGINIA 595 

trade, the independonce of relitjiDUs sooit-ties, the ^i-ourity iVoni ibreign 
taxation, and the ui.iiveitial ekctjve fjanrliise. If in -(he tollow-iiig years 
:sl)e departed from eitii^vr of theye principles, and yi<"!ded a reliirtantcon- 
'feent to change, it was from the influence of foreign a\uhority. V^irginia had 
'lierself establisiied a nearly independent democracy. Prosperity advanced 
'-with freedom; dreams of new staples and infinite wealth were indulg-ed : 
-\vhile the population of Virginia til the epoch of tiie restoratbn may hare 
been about thitty thousand. Many of the recent e,migp-anis liad been royal- 
if;ts in England, good officers in the war, men of education, of property, 
and of condition. Rut the waters of the Atlantic divided them from the 
political .strife.^ of Europe; tiieir industry was employed in mailing; the 
be.st advantage of llieir plantations-; the interests and lilterties of Virginia, 
the land whi<h they adopted a.s their couiitry, were dearer to fluem ihan Itit 
monarchical principles, which they had espoused in England: and there- 
fore no billejnes.s could exiiH be-twe.en the parti/.ans of the Stuarts and tITe 
friends of re),ublican liberty. Virginia liad long been the home of its in- 
habitants — "Among many other blessings," faid tht-ir fdaliile book, "God 
Almighty hath vouchsafed increase of children to this colony ; who ate 
now multiplied to a considerable number;'' and the huts in the wilderness 
were as full as the bird's nests of ^he vjoodi"- 

The genial climate and transparent atmosjihere defipiited those, who had 
come from the denser air of I^ngland. Every object hi nature w^ new 
.^and wonderful. '■■"-■ ' 

The hospitality of the Virginians b.-cnme pr(jveHiial. Labof wa5~va1u- 
"^1*^; land was cheap ; com p;--tence pTrt^ft^-fy. followed indnstry. Thefe 
vvas ho neod of a scramble; {(^Ijntidauee' g'lr&htH! frrtm the earth for "all. The 
morasses were alive with watej' ibwl ; the forests were nimble Avith game, 
the woods rustled with covies of quail and wild invkie.<^, while rhey ^mip; 
with the merry notes of the singing birds ; and hogs'swanuing- like \vtniin, 
ran at large in troops. It was " the b:^sF poor miiii's connt-ry in the worid " 
" If a happy peacc- be settled in poor England," it had been said " then ihey 
in Virginia shull be as happy a people as any nnder heavfn." But pleVrfy 
'encouraged indolence. No domestic, maniiiactnres wi^re e..-;tabliyhed ; every 
thing was imported from Englan.i 7"ht' *'htef l»rancli of industry, for the 
purpose of exclianges, was loljacco planting; and the spirit of invention wari 
enfeebled by the uniformity of pursuit.* 

+Bancroft's History of the United States, vol. J- p. 246, 252. In lalcing leave of fhi-. 
deliglitl'ul author, whose wor);: has not yet progres.sed heyond the first volume, we 
must make an apology for borro-ivin,? in this chapter more perhaps llian was lair. But 
our extreme ha'ite, writing against time, whilst the pre-ss is in operation and the 
printer's devil lakin.if his co/ti/ from under our pen licfore the ink is dry, — must Ije our 
apology for using liis copious references, and even his ls.n£?uage whcai we hnd it pre- 
cisely^applicaMo to t)ur purpose, expressed as it is v.ilh more cn-^e and beauty than we 
could ever attain wli-.itcver time mi',,'hl be at our disposal. The use we make of hr; 
work, whilst it will be a great benefit to our readers, cannot be an injury to him, b«4 
maybe a service in making his work known to many who would not othervyise be 
aware of its merit, or perhaps its c-vistcnee. We have a very high authority for- a 
much more extensive system of (juotation, in the use mnde by Judge Marshall ol Dr. 
Robertson's poMhumous chapters on Virginia. Our ha^te must be our apology also 
for the u.se of a review ol" the early legislation of Virginia from the prelace ot IJcn- 
in^'s Statutes at Large, which wc give below. It presents; a conncrted view ol seve- 
ral matters of legislation which we had not liiue lo interweave into the text ; oureom- 
mcnls upon olher.s, and our rca.-uvns for dill^rinic from ilie -enerally .'ereive.i opn.iun 
of their impropriety are given in the text 



596 



NOTE A. 



Seep. &85.— From the settlement of the colony to the death of Charles I. and the com" 
mi-ncenient of the commonwealth thereupon, an uniformity to the doctrines and dis- 
cipline of the church of England was strictly enjoined; all non-conformists were com- 
pelled to leave the colony, whh all convenience; popish recusants were disabled from 
holding any office, and their priests not suffered to remain more than five days in the 
country. During the commonwealth, tne affairs of the church were left to the discre- 
tion of the parishioners, but no sooner did the Quakers, who had fled from the perse- 
cutions in England, arrive on our shores than they were met by the terrors of an act 
" for suppressing them;* masters of vessels were subjected to a penalty of one hundred 
pounds sterling for each Cluaker brought into the colony; all (Quakers were imprison- 
ed without bail or mainprize, till they found sufficient security to depart the colony: 
for returning they were directed to he proceeded against as contemners of the laws 
and magistracy, and punished accordingly; and if they should come in a third time 
they were to be prosecuted as felons. All persons were prohibited, under the penalty 
of one hundred pounds sterling, from entertaining them, or permitting their assem- 
blies in or near their houses ; and no person was permitted to dispose of, or publish, 
aify books or pamphlets containing the tenets of their religion. 

It is worthy of observation that a similar principle to that which has obtained in 
Kentucky with resj>ect to compensation for improvements made uptin lands by one 
man, the title of which appeared, from investigation, to be in another, existed in a law 
of Virginia, so long ago as the year h'Ao. And as this law has never before been 
published, we can only account for the coincidence, by supposing that mankind, in 
every age, placed in similar situations, will generally pursue the same course. The 
act, after reciting that many suits had been commenced, founded on contruversies re- 
♦ating to land, •' to the great trouble and molestation of the whole culony,"' goes on lu 
declare, that if any man should settle ovi a tract of land, which, on a just survey, 
should pruve to be the properly of another, a valuable consideration should be allowed 
by the judgment of twelve men upon oath, to the first who sealed it, for clearing and 
improving it; but if the rliarge should amount lo more than the real owner was wil- 
ling to give, (he person in pos^essilM1 m a-; bound to keep the land, and pay the ovcner 
what it should be judged by twelve men to be worth, " before the seating thereof ;" and, 
oi' course, without regard to the improvements. An exception was mode in favor oi' 
orphans ; and afterwards a further proviso, thai an alioM ance foi- " building and clfi^i- 
ing" slionld not be made to those who had " lawful warning" ol a prior right. About 
the same period (1043) the assembly passed an act directing that all process against 
debtors lately arrived Irom England (except where the debts were contracted for 
f^ootls purchased in England, or for the accommodation of planters returning to this 
country,) should be sus}^»ended. "^I'his act is intioduced by a lengthy preamble, assign- 
ing reasons which fully satisfied ihe minds of the legislalure a.^ to the policy and even 
justice of the measure. The.se laws had an obvious tendency to increase the popula- 
tion, and promote the improvement of the ct)uniry; by rendering the pcrsovs of manv 
of .the inhabitants free from restraint, and by securing ;o every man the f/nUs oj his 
tabor. 

The culture of tobacco seems to have been a favorite object with the first setller.s, 
and was the only staple coinnrtntity to w-liich they could be induced to turn iheir at- 
tention. In order to improve its tptalily various laws were passed limiting the num- 
:ber of plants to be cultivated by each" hand, and the leaves to be gathered frojji 3 
plant. Other details in the process of making it, were also prescribed by the legisla- 
lure; and to insure a just compensation for the labor of the planter, the piice at which 
it was to be sold was fixed by the assembly, at different times. The first idea of in- 
specting tobacco is contained in an a<t passed in 1()30, before any warehouses were 
established. The process was very simple, and the penalty for offering unraerchant- 

*It will be tieen by reference to the ju-eanible of this act, that these people were not 
persecuted for leligious opinion, but improper conduct "Whereas there is an vnrea.son- 
able and inrbulent soil of people, commonly called Quakers, who contrary to the law 
<Jo dayly gaiher together vnto them vnla\v'll Assemblies and congregations of people 
teaching and publishing, lies, miracles, false visions, prophecies and doctrines, which 
*i«ve inlluence vpon the coinunities of men both ecclesiasticall and civil endeavouring 
aud attempting thereby to destroy religion, lawes, comunities and all bonds of civil 
societie, leaveing if arbitrarie to everie vaine and vitious person whether men shall 
be safe, lawes established, offenders punished, and Governours rule, hereby disturbing 
the publique peace an.l jusi interest, to prevent and re.straine which mischiefe, Jt ii 
t.;j,!rj. ,\-c" -]Zi<. GaZ. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 597 

able tobacco in payment equally severe. II" a planter oflered to pay away, or barter 
any bad tobacco, the commander ol" the plaiuation (an officer who united with the 
powers of a justice of the peace, the supreme military command of the settlement) 
with two or three discreet men, were directed to view it, and if found of bad quality, 
to cause it to be burnt; and the owner was prohibited from planting any more tobacco 
un.lil aiUhorizcd bij the GeticruL Assembly. At the next session the law was amended 
so as to make it the duty of the commander to issue his order either verbally or in 
writing to two " sufficient men" to view the tobacco, who were, in like manner, to 
burn it, if of bad quality. The same law was re-enacted in the revisal of 1633. In 
IG33, warehouses (then called storehouses) were established, and the inspectors were 
to be composed of that member of the king's council, whose residence was nearest any 
warehouse, and the commissioners of the several plantations, as assistants. 

To prevent the recurrence of a scarcity of corn, which had been severely felt in the 
colony, each master of a family was compelled to plant and sufficiently tend, two 
acres a head, for each laboring person in his family ; and as an encouragement to cul- 
tivate that anicle, the price was not to be limited, but every planter might sell it as dear 
as he could. Nor does it appear that the legislature ever interfered with the exportation 
of corn, or restricted the price, except in times of pressing want. In the year 1630, 
the contents of a barret of corn were fixed at five bushels, Winchester measure, and 
has so continued to the present day. 

Various and severe laws were very early enacted against forestalling and ingross- 
ing imported articles, but their ineflicacy having been experienced, they were all re- 
pealed and a free trade allowed. 

The administration of justice, in Virginia, was originally extremely cheap, and 
simple in its details. Commanders of planlaiions helij monthly courts for the trial of 
civil actions, not exceeding the value of one bundled i)ounds of tobacco, and for the 
punishment of petty otfenees, reserving the right of appeal to the quarter court held 
by the governor and council, which possessed the supreme judicial power, under the 
dilferent cliarlers, and had original jurisdiction in all cases whatsoever. Commis- 
sioners of uunthly courts succeeded to commanders of planiattons, with the like juris- 
diction in civil cases; which was afterwards extended to five pounds sterling. The 
jurisdiction of tlie court was further extendied to sixteen hundred pounds of tobacco, 
and they were to be called cou.nttj instead of monf/dij courts; and that of a single ma- 
gistrate was final as far as twenty shillings sterling. In consequence of the great dis- 
tance of many ul' tlie counties from James City, where the quarter courts were held, 
jurisdiction was finally given to the county courts, in all cases of law and equity, an4 
tiie trial by jury secured to those who desired it. The decision of the county court 
was, at first, final as far as sixteen hundred pounds of tobacco, and for all sums above 
that an appeal was allowed to the quarter court, and from, thence to the assembly ; 
which afterwards had jurisdiction of appeals in all cases, of whatever amount. Be- 
sides the general jurisdiction of the cnunty and quarter courts, special provision was 
made for certain covmlies and settlements where it was considered too inconvenient 
to the people to attend at the usual place of holding courts. The leading principle 
seem 5 to have been iu carry justice to the doors of the iuhabitMiits. Thus, the county 
court of Northauipton, " on account of its renwteness from James City" had final juris- 
diction as far as three thousand two hundred pounds of tobacco; one commissioner on 
the South side of the river in James City county, was vested with the powers of a 
county court ; the inhabitants of Appamattock or Bristol parish, were also authorised 
ro hold courts, with the right of appeal to Henrico or Charles City county courts. 
Two courts were permitted to be held in Northampton ; two in Isle of Wight; and two 
in Charles City. As the population of the county increased, and new counties were 
formed, these special courts were abolished. 

In the year 1613, the first act passed for regulating lawyers; though they had cer- 
tainly attended the several courts before that period. By the first law on the subject, 
no attorney was permitted to plead, without a licen.se; which was grantable by the 
court in which he practised ; nor could an attorney have a license from more courts 
than the quarter, and one county court, — Their fees were twenty pounds of tobacco, 
in the county, and fifty pounds in the quarter court : and no attorney could refuse to 
be retained unless employed on the other side. In 1645, all merceiiary attornies were 
expelled from ofiice: In i(»47, that act was amended by adding a clause to if declaring 
that no attornies should take any fees ; and if the court should perceive that either par- 
l\', by his weakness, was likely to lose his cause, they them.selves should either open 
the case or " appoint some fit man out of the people," to plead the cause, and allow 
him a reasonable compensation : no other attornies were admitted. In W56, the act 
prohibiting attornies was repealed; the governor and council were authorised to li- 
cense them for the quarter fouris, and the commissioners for the county courts, and 



598 HISTORY OF VlRCiNIA. 

if any controversy sboiiUl arise concerning tli.eir fees, it was to be settled by the courts 
respeciiv'oly. Jn 1G57-S, the \aw against uiercenary attoniies, wps ag^in revived. 

4,n inspection of the ditferont fee bills will shew the simplicity of judicial proceed- 
ings, and the small compensation allowed to the officers of court. The first ollicers 
whose kes were established by law, were the secretary \vho was clerk of the quarter 
court, and the marskall, who executed the same duties which devolved upon the she- 
riff, at'ter the appointment of that otficer, which was not until the year 1634. The 
fees of clerks and sheriffs embraced but few objects, and w'ere very moderate. 

Clerks of county courts were, at one time, appointed by tlie governor, but after- 
wards by the courts themselves. Commissioiiers of county courts, (the same as jus- 
tices of the peace) were formerly appointed by the governor, afterwards by act of as- 
sembly •, but at the commencement of the commonwealth they were appointed by the 
house of burj^esses ; afterwards they were recommended by their courts, and commis- 
sioned by the governor and council, and finally their appointment was confirmed by 
the assembly. During the same periotl the county courts recornmended th?-ce or more 
to the governor and council, out of which they rriade a. seleelion for sjti.eritts, who were 
to continue in ofiice for one year only. 

No representative government was ever instituted in whicli the principles of uni- 
versal suffrage, and ot' full representation, were caj ried fuitlier than in Virginia. The 
right of sulirage was originally exercised by all freemen; who sy^rc not compellable 
to go from their plantations to vote lor burgesses; but miglil give their sutiiages by 
subscribing a paper. This mode having bet-n •.tllLiiiled with considerable inconveni- 
ence, it was provided that all future elections sliuidd bo by plurality o^ voices present ; 
and a fine was imposed on 'aW frecincii, w!; i sii uikUaii to attend at the time and place 
appointed for the election. The numl^'i- .i| l,;ir'-<csse.s io a plantation or settlement (be- 
fore the fornjatioji of counties) was unliinited; nor does it appear that, at that lime, 
any particular qualifications were necessary. After counties were laid ofi', the num- 
ber of representatives to a county remained without limitation, until November, l(j4&, 
when they were reduced to four to cacii county, except James City county, which 
might send five, and the city itself one; and thetileciion was directed to be lield where 
tiie county courts were, except in Uio,-;e plsj'es which were specially authorised by act 
of a.ssembly to hold elections. These v<.-re certain /;iirts/iK.s to which that privilege 
:i.vas granted; and it was afterwards exieuded to all parishes, tliey paying the expenses 
i<f their burgesses, as the counties in general were ccnripelled to do in relation to theirs. 
At the March session, KiOO-l, the number of burgesses was limited to two for each 
county, and one for James City, it beincf the nicir.)iv)!is. 

The first act which in tlje smalle:.t degici- ;iiM n;-.,! ilu'vi-lil ..T sullinuo, or pre- 
rscribed the qualifications of the members, pa; . ed u" ihe jVbucii seisiuii. KiS'l-S. By 
this act it Avas declared, that the persons who should be elected to serve in as.senibly 
hii such, and no "ether than such, as v,'ere persons of kntiwii ijitegri;ty and of good 
"conversation, and of the age of one and twenty years." Tiiat all house keepei's, 
" whether freeholders, lease-holders, or otherwise tenants, sliould only be capable Io 
c1e;t l)urgesses ;" provided that the term " huusc-l.'ecpcrs should extend no further than 
■" to one person in a family." At the next session, however, so much of this act as 
excluded any freeman from voting was repealed: the assembly declaring " that they 
conceived it something liard and unagreeable .to reason that any persons should pay 
" equal taxes, and yet have no votes in election." In the revisal of 1G57-8, the same 
principle is preserved ; tliC right of suifia'^c bein'.^exiended to "all persons inhabiting 
" in the colony, that arc frer men." I'y an aci u!' 1(170, that right was, for the first 
•lime, confined to tree holders only ; and the necessity of this quali-fication was fur- 
(her enforced by instructions from king Charles II, to sir Wm. Berkeley, governor, in 
1070 :" You shall talce care," says the second article of the instructions, " that the; 
"members of the as.sembly be elected, only by free holders, as being morcagreealde 
" to the custome of England, to which yois are as nigh as conveniently you ca.n to con- 
form yourselfe." 

Bridges and ferries were at first established and maintained at public expense; but 
this being considered burthensoi«e to the inhabitsnts of many of the counties, espe- 
cially the poor, who seldom used them; the law, as to ferries, was repealed, and the 
county courts vested with power to esiablish ferries on tlie ajiplication of individuals, 
and fix Ihcir rates. The exclusive ri2:lit of establishing fenies was afterwards re- 
.sumed liy the assembly ; and having exercised it for a series of year's, to (he great lu- 
(erruplion of other public business, the legislature at the session ol' 1800, rc-^loicd Io 
(lie county courts llie power exercise I Iiy (licni so lorig agoastiie y-.ar ir.47 



m^ 



CHAPTER V. 

SACON's nEBELLION HOSTILE DESIGNS OF THE FREXCII. 

Indifference to change in England, — Navigation act, — Convicts, — Con- 
spira':y delected, — Discontents, — Cessation from tobacco ]da7i.ii7ig for 
one year, — Royal grants, — Virginians remonstrance, — Success of depu- 
ties, — IndiaM hostilities, — Army raised and disbanded by governor, — 
People petition for an anny,-^— elect Brtcon covimandcr,—he marches 
loilhout commission and defeats Indians, — pursued by governor, tvho 
retreats 071 hearing of rising at James Town, — Governor makes conces- 
sions, — -Bacon prisoner, — is pardoned.— People force commissio7i from 
j^-overnor, — Baco7i marches to vieSt Indians,— hears he is declared a, 
rebel by Berkeley, — 7narches to meet hi7n, — he flees to Accomac, — Con- 
Tentio7i called a7id free governinent established. — Bacon defeats the 
India7is, — Berkeley obtains fossfssion of the shipping, a7id occupies 
James Toicn, — is besciged by Bacon, a7i.d driven out, — James Town 
bm-7it. — Death of Bacon, — character of his enterprise. — Predatory 
toarfare, — treaty bclivecn governor and his oppo7LPnts,' — Crvelty of 
Berkeley, — King\s commissioners, —Depayrture of Berkeley o^nd his 
death. — Acts of Assembly parsed during Baco/is influence. — Conduct 
of king^s com7nissioners, — Culpepcr gaatmor,- — Disc€/ite?tts,-— Conduct 
of Beverly. — Howard governor.----Gene:rdl conduct of Virginia and 
progress of affairs. — Plcni of Callier for dividing the British colonics. 

As Virginia had provided for herself n: govGrnnient substantially free, 
the political changes in England could have little effect upon her repose, 
provided no attenvpt was made to interfere with the freedom of her trade, 
or her local government. She seem.ed content to be under the protection 
rather than control, of whatever power the people of England thought 
proper to place at the head of affairs, provided that power did not seek to 
extend the conceded authority. In this mood she had adhered to Charles 1. 
until the Parliament by its commissioners promised a preservation of all 
her privileges; she acknowledged Cromwell «pon a similar promise, and 
his son Richard under the same idea ; upon his resignation she held her- 
self aloof, thus proving how perfect and how independent was her own 
local government, until the voice of England should declare who should 
rule; and upon the accession of Charles 11. she gave hi her allegiance to 
him. As in all these British changes she remained unconcerned and un- 
moved, so the last caused neither extraordinary joy or regret. Tlie colo- 
nists thus free from external sources of uneasiness, proceeded to legislate 
upon internal matters; providing rewards for the encouragement of silk 
and other staples ; negociating with Carolina and Maryland for the adop- 
tion of uniform measures for the improvement of tobacco, and diminishhig 
its quantity; and providing for the erection of public buildings, the improve- 
ment of James Town, and other subjects of general utility. 

Whilst the colonists were pioceeding in this useful occupation they were 

1663 '^^^.''"^^*^' ^y ^^^ intelligence of the reenaction of the navigation act, 

odious with new prohibitions, and armed with new penalliet. The 



600 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

Virginians had long enjoyed a very beneficial trade with other lountrirs 
besides England, and had early perceived its advantages, often urging the 

f»ropriety of its continuance, and contending that "ireedom of trade was the 
ife of a commonwealth." But the object of the navigation act was to con- 
fine its trade exclusively to England, for the encouragement of English 
shipping and the emolument of English merchants, as well as the promo- 
tion of the king's revenue ; without regard to the gross injury done to the 
colony by depriving her of the benefit of competition in her harbors. The 
colony remonstrated in vain, and continued bold!}' her trade with all such 
foreigners as would venture to encounter the risque of being taken by the 
English cruisers and encountering the penalties of the act. 

It appears to have been for some time the practice to send felons and 
other obnoxious persons to the colony, to expiate their offences by serving 
the planters for a term of years. At the restoration many of the veteran 
soldiers of Cromwell to whom it was anticipated the return of the anr.un, 
regime would not be particularly palatable, were shipped to Virginia to 
work ofT their spleen in the cultivation of tobacco. It appears that this 
new business was not as agreeable to them as they had found the psalm- 
singing and phmdering of the royalists under the command of their devout 
leader ; and they accordingly quickly organized an i/jsurrection, by the 
operation of which they were to change places with such of their masters 
as were left alive by the process. But this out breaking which seems to 
have been well planned and extensively organized, was prevented by- the 
compunction of one of their associates, who disclosed the whole affair to 
the governor the evening before it was to have gone into effect ; and ade-: 
pi iq quate means were taken to prevent the design. Four of the con- 
spirators were executed. Rut this evil of importing jail-btrdx 
as they were called, increased to such an extent that it was prohibited by 
the General Court in 1670, under severe penalties.* 

The increase in the amount of tobacco raised by the increase of the c oinny 

T c tccii and the settlement of Maryland and Carolina, far outstripped the 
june5,16DO, • e . ^ c -. -a .u . a j u 

increase of taste lor it, rapid as that was, and caused such a 

glut of the commodity that its price fell to an amount utterly ruinour- to the. 
planter. In this the exclusive privilege of purchase which England enjoye.d, 
notwithstanding the extensive contraband trade, no doubt largely contributed, 
but this the planters could not prevent, and their only remaining resource 
was in diminishing the amount of tobacco raised. To effect this variaus 
schemes had been devised, but they were all liable to be evaded, and were 
if successful, too partial in their operation to effect the object desired,.- 
Nothing could be efficient, short of a total ressafinn from planting for one 
year, and this was at last accomplished after long negotiations wi^h Mary- 
land and Carolina. 

Many other staples had been recommended from time In time to the 
planters, and even encouraged by bounties and rewards, and this year it 
was thought would give them more leisure to attend to the subject Rut it 
is not probable that many engaged in the occupations proposed, which re 
quired the investment of capital, the acquif^ifion of skill, and the aid of 
t\xne to render them profitable; and the year's leisure only served to incvea.?e 
the growing discnntcnt, especially as towards its end Maryland began to 
be suspected of bad faith. 



*Hening, v. II. p. 510. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 601 

There were other causes of discontent which probably prevailed between 
diiTerem classes of society. Loud complaint was made of the manner in 
which taxes were levied, entirely on persons without regard to property, 
which as there must have been a very large class of poor Tree persons now 
existing from the frequent emancipation, and expiration of the terms of 
those who came over as servants, besides those who were free but poor 
when they came to the country, must have created considerable excitement. 
An effort was made to remedy this evil by laying a tax on property but 
ineffectually; the only result being a small export duty on tobacco, in aid 
of the general revenue. 

While the taxes bore thus hard upon the poorer portion of the communi- 
ty they also had just reason to compbin of exclusion from the right of 
suffrage by an act of 1G70, and from the Legislature, to which none bul 
freeholders could be chosen; as well as of the enormous pay which the 
Burgesses appropriated to themselves, of one hundred and fifty pounds of 
tobacco per diem, and one hundred for their horses and servants. The 
forts were also complained of as a source of heavy expenditure without 
any bene/it ; their chief use indeed being rather injurious, as they kept off 
traders who violated the navigation acts. 

But these evils in domestic legislation were trivial compared with those 
produced by the criminal prodigality of Charles, who wantonly made 
exorbitant grants to his favorites of lari^e tracts of lands, without a knowl- 
edge of localities, and consequently without regard to the claims or even 
the settlements of others. Ta cap the climax of royal munificence 
the gay monarch in perhaps a merry raoed. granted to Lords Culpeper 
and Arlington the whole colony of Virginia for thirty-one years, with 
privileges effectually royal, as far as the colony was concerned, only re- 
serving some mark of homage to himse^*". This might be considered at 
court perhaps as a small bounty to a favorite, but was taken in a very seri- 
ous light by the forty thousand people thcS' uncsrc'moniGusly transferred. 
The Assembly in its extravagance only took from them a great proportion 
of their profits ; but the king was filching their capital, their lands, and 
their homes which they had inherited from their fathers, or laboriously ac- 
quired bv their own strenuous exertion. 

The Legislature sent three deputies to England to remonstrate with the 
king against these intolerable grants, to endeavor to procure his assent to 
some charter which might secure tham again^ such impositions for the 
future: and if they should fail in the first of thpse objects to endeavor to 
buy out the rights of the patentees. To bear the expense of these three 
deputies, Mr. Ludwell, Mr. Morryson, and ?vir. Smith, the enormous annual 
tax of fifty pounds of tobacco was laid upon every tithable person for two 
years, which, though it was for a popular object, was considered as of itself 
an intolerable grievance, at which we cannot wonder when we reflect that 
many who had to p^y this tax did not own a foot of land. The amount 
can only be accounted for by supposing much oi it was to be used as secret 
srrttce inoneii, with such of"- hi.5 n'iajesty's minions as could only see justice 
through a golden medium. 

These deputies exerted themselves with renfiarkable success, and pro- 
cured from the king an order for a charter, precisely in confornfilv to the 
petition which they presented, and providing against the grievances oi 
which they complained-, especially grants from the crown without infor- 
mation fiom th*? ;?oTernor and council in Yirs-inia thaj such grant v^'ould 
76 



602 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

be of no injury; dependence immediately upon the crown of England and 
not on any subfeiidf^tory ; and exemption from taxation without consent of 
the Grand Assembly. His majesty ordered the solicitor general and attor- 
ney general to prepare a bill embodying these and the other matters em- 
braced in their pt-tition in due legal form for his signature ; but the matter, 
notwithstanding the most assiduous attention of the deputies, was so long 
delayed in going through the official forms that it was finally stopped, be- 
fore its completion, in the Hanaper office, by the news of Bacon's Rebel- 
lion.* 

Soon after the deputies left Virginia, the difficulties of the colony had 
been increased by the addition of an Indian war, which although not now 
as formerly a matter causing danger of destruction to the whole colony, 
and requiring all its strength to repel it, was yet a subject of great terror 
and annoj'ance to the frontier, 

A standing army of five hundred men, one-fourth of which was to consist 
■^ „ .r.j^ of cavalry, was raised by the Legislature, and every provision 
made for their support and regulation ;t but after It was raised 
and in a complete state of preparation to march against the Indians, it was 
suddenly disbanded bythe governor without any apparent cause. |: This was 
followed by eara.est petitions to the governor from various quarters of thecoun- 
-tvy, to grant a commission to some person to chasiisethe Indians, the petition- 
ers offering to serve in the expedition at their own expense. This reasonable 
request was refused, and the people seeing their country left defenceless to 
the inroads of a savage foe, assembled of themselves in their primary 
capacity, in virtue of their right of self-defence, to march against the ese- 
my. They chose for their leader Nathaniel Bacon, junior, a young gen- 
tleman of highly respectable family and education, who although he had 
returned to Virginia but three years before, from the completion of his 
studies in England, had already received the honor of a colonel's rank in 
the m.ilitia and a seat in the Legislature for Henrico, in wh'ch county his 
estate lay, — exposed by its situation to the fury of the Indians. He stood 
high in the colony, and was possessed of courage, talent and address 
which fitted him well for such an enterprise. After Bacon had been selected 
by this volunteer army as their leader, his first step was to apply to the 
governor for a commission, in ordtr if possible to have the tanftion of the 
legitimate authorities for his conduct. The governor evaded this rational 
and respectful request, by sayiiig that he could not decide upon so impor- 
tant a matter without bis- conncil, which he summoned to consult, at the 
same time artfully hinting to Bacon the injury which he might probably 
do himself by ptrsevering in his course.^ Bacon despatched messengers 
to James Town to receive the commission which he did not doubt would 
be ultimately granted ; and as public impatience would not abide the dila- 
tory proceedings of the governor, and he was probably nettled at the in- 
sinuations addressed to his selfishness, in the governor's communication, — 
he proceeded on bis expedition, authorized only by the will of the people, 
the danger of the country/, and the anxious wish of those who trusted their 
lives to his control- 



"Hemiig, vol. IJ. p 531 

tHening, vol. II. 327. 

t Breviare and Coiiclusum in Burke v. II. p. *250. 

§ Ancient Record.^ quoted by Burk, vol. II. p, 1G3. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. tm 

Sir William Berkeley, (whose conduct notwithstanding the high enco- 
tniums bestowed upon him, seems to have been marked in ordinary times 
only by a haughty condescension, which in his excellency was called suavity 
of manners, and in times of difficulty, by vacillating imbecility,) after tem- 
porising in the most conciliating manner with Bacon until his departure, 
now denounced him and his followers as mutineers and traitors foT daring 
to defend their country after his excellency had refused them a commission; 
and gathering together sucli forces as he could collect consisting princi- 
pally of the wealthy aristocrats in the settled country, who probably liked 
the mode of taxation which was least injurious to them, and who suffered 
little from Indian incursions upon the frontier, he marched to put down the 
rebellious troops. He had not proceeded further than the falls of James 
river, when he received intelligence of a rising in the neighborhood of 
James Town of a more formidable nature than Bacon's, which compelled 
him to retreat and take care of afiairs at home. This new ebullition of 
feeling was headed by Ingram and Walklate, and was probably produced 
by the indignation of the common people at the absurd conduct of the 
governor in first refusing a commission to Bacon, and then marching to 
destroy him, whilst engaged in so useful an occupation ; be this as it may, 
we find them insisting upon dismantling the forts which were intolerably 
oppressive, without producing any good effect against an enemy whose 
progress was by stealth, whose onset was sudden and furious, and whose 
retreat was immediate. Against such an enemy active operations in the 
field were required, and the vigorous prosecution of the war- in his own 
-•*«yantry. The forts probably were regarded by the poor as instruments of 
power in the hands of the rich; trMch -they kept up by oppressive acts 
whilst they look measures to put down Bacon's operations, which consti- 
tuted the only hope which the people had for protection. The governor 
was obliged to yield to the storm. The forts were ordered to be dismant- 
led, and the obnoxious Assemblj' was dissolved, and writs issued. for a new 
election, in which for the first time freemen, as distinguished from freehoid- 
ers, were elected. 

In the mean time Bacon had been very successful in defeating the In- 
dians, destrojnng their towns, and taking them captive, and was returning 
leisurely to James Town when he heard of the revolution there. This 
induced him to leave his little army and with a few followers embark for 
James Town, but he was taken on his voyage by Gardiner who was cruis- 
ing to intercept him ; and sent a prisoner to the governor. Bacon had 
been elected a member for Henrico in the new Legislature, and was par- 
doned and permitted to take his seat upon his confessing the impropriety 
and disobedience of his conduct, praying pardon of the governor and pro- 
mising future obedience. Credible report* says that he was induced to 
make this full and humiliating acknovvledgmentf upon a promise by the 
governor not only of pardon but of a commission ; and indeed without 
supposing it the result of a compromise, it is difficult to accouni either for 
this act, or his subsequent conduct. The causes which induced his next 
step are not sufficiently explained by the historians of the times, but it 
was probably produced by the solicitations of his friends in the Legislature, 
who found that they could gaia no redress of grievances. He collected 

♦See Breviare and Conolusum in Burk, v. Ff.^p. 351. 
t Henin?, v. 11. p 543 



604 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

troops in the country, and marched to James Town ; he surrounded the 
state house with his enraged soldiers, demanding a commission for him, 
which by the earnest solicitation of the Council and Assembly was at 
length obtained from the governor, together with a full act of indemnity 
for his present conduct, and a letter highly applauding his designs and his 
proceedi-ngs addressed to the king and signed by the Burgesses, the Coun- 
cil and the gore i nor. 

Thus relieved from all former sources of fear and provided against fu- 
ture contingencies Bacon again sallied forth towards the frontier. But 
the governor had not long been relieved from his preseiiCe before he dis- 
solved the Assembly and retiring into Gloucester again declared Bacon a 
rebel and his army traitors, and raised the standard of opposition. Upon 
being informed of this Bacon immediately fell back by forced marches 
upon Gloucester, and compelled his puissant excellency to retreat with 
precipitation to Accomac. This county was at that time considered as a 
distinct territory although under the control of Virginia, and Bacon taking 
advantage of this against an unpopular governor, called a convention for 
the purpose of settling the government, declaring that the governor had 
abdicated. This convention met at Middle Plantation on the third of 
August, 1676, and declared that the government was vacant by the abdi- 
cation of Sir William Berkeley, and that by invariable usage the coundl 
or the people might fill the vacancy until the king's pleasure should be 
known. Writs were then issued by five* members of the council for a 
new election of Burg'^sses. The convention next declared Sir William 
Berkeley guilty of aidit^ and. a,bettiDg certain evil disposed persons ia 
fomenting and stirring up thepeopielio civil war-; and that they would aid- 
in discovering all such evil disposed persons and opposing their forces 
until the king be fully informed of the state of the case; and that they 
would aid Bacon and his army against the common enemy, and in sup- 
pressing the horrid outrages apd murders daily committed by them. 

Bacon having now provided a regular government for the country pro- 
ceeded once more against the In-dians, who had formed a confederacy and 
gained several advantages since his retreat. He destroyed the Pamunkey, 
Chickahominy and Mattaponi towns and their corn, in retaliation of the 
late excesses. The Indians retreated before him, with occasional skir- 
mishes until they reached their place of general rendezvous near the falls 
of James river. He there found their whole force posted on an eminence 
overhanging a stream which from the sanguinary nature of the conflict 
has been since called Bloody Run. They were protected by a stockade 
fort, which was stormed by the impetuous ardor of Bacon and his follow- 
ers, who made great slaughter among them, encumbered as they were witli 
their old men, women and children. 

In the mean time Berkeley had not met with that warm reception which 
he had anticipated amongst the loyalists of Accomac, but on the other 
hand he had been presented with a strong and spirited remonstrance against 
the objectionable acts of Parliament, and a requisition that they should be 
suspended at least so far as regarded that portion of the country. How. 
the matter terminated vv'e are not informed. 



* Burk, vol. II. p. 179, says — by Bacon and four other members of the Council, but 
tlie member of the Council was Nathaniel Bacon, sen., and Jhe General was Nath'l 
Bacon, jun., delegate for Tlenrico. — Hening, vol. II. p. 544--5, 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. €05 

The governor was not allowed to remain undisturbed in Accomac, until 
he could again succeed in raising a force which might give trouble. Ba- 
con's party A^as in possession of all the vessels in the colony, and two of 
his friends, Giles Bland and William Carver, went with their force to cut 
off supplies from the governor, or as his friends surmised, to surprise him. 
But if such was their object they Avere defeated, for Capt. Larimore from 
whom one of the vessels had been taken, gave intimation to the governor's 
friends that he would betray his vessel into the hands of a party sufficient- 
ly strong to keep possession. The proposal was acceded to, and at mid- 
night six and twentj' men, obeying Larimore's signal, were along side of 
his ship and had possession almost before the crew were aroused from 
their slumbers; the other vessels were then easily taken. Thus Sir Wil- 
liam finding himself in possession of the whole naval force of the colony 
whilst Bacon was absent in his expedition against the Indians, he collected 
together a force of some six hundred men, consisting mostly of aristocratic 
gentlemen and their servile dependants, and look possession once more of 
James Town. As usual his first act in returning to power was to disavow 
his acts in favor of Bacon as made vmder duress, and again to declare him 
a rebel, and his soldiers traitors. 

Bacon was on his return from his successful campaign when this news 
reached hmi; most of his followers had dispersed, but he hastened on with 
the remainder without regard to their fatigues in the recent campaign. 
He arrived before James Tovi'n late in the evening, fired his artillery and 
sounded a defiance, and then cooly dismounted and laid off his trenches. 
His men that very night by the aid of trees, earth and brush-wood formed 
a tolerable breast-work, and the next tnorning advanced to the palisadoes 
of the town and fired upon the guard, without loss. Sir William Berke- 
ley well knowing that time would increase the force of his adversary 
whilst it diminished his own, next resolved to try the effects of a sally, and 
some of his men at first behaved with some show of courage, but the whole 
body soon retreated in disorder before the well directed fire of Bacon's 
men, leaving their drum and their dead as trophies to the victors. Bacon 
would not allow the victory to be followed up, as it would have placed his 
men under the range of the guns of the shipping. To prevent the use 
which might be made of this auxiliary, he planted several great guns, so 
as to bear on the ships, which served also to alarm though they could not 
annoy the town. 

Now the marked difference Avhich existed between the character of Ba- 
con's troops and those of the governor was exhibited, and that too in a man- 
ner well calculated to exhibit the character of Bacon's proceedings. 
Berkeley's troops consisting principally of mercenary wretches, whom he 
had scraped together by the hopes of plunder, deserted every day Avhen 
they found that the governor was determined to defend the place, and that 
they were likely to get more blows than booty in the contest, until at last 
the governor was left with little more than twenty gentlemen, whose sense* 
of honor would not allow them to desert his person. Bacon's troops on the 
other hand were daily reinforced by accessions from the country people, 
who clearly considered him as an intrepid soldier who had delivered them 
from the butcheries of the savages, and a patriot who was now endeavor- 
ing to put down an odious and oppressive government. 

The governor finding his followers reduced to so small a number that it 
would be madness to attempt to defend the place, at length yielded to the 



606 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

earnest solicitations of those about him, and deceiving- his adversaries as to 
his real design by exhibiting evidences of a contemplated attack, he went 
on board a ship at midnight and was seen next morning riding at anchor 
beyond the reach of the guns in the fort at James Town. Bacon with his 
followers, after their week's seige marched into the empty tOAAm the next 
morning, the gov-ernor and his party having carried off or destroyed every 
article of value. The possession of James Town in this situation was of 
no advantage to Bacon or his followers. The men who had left their 
homes to defend their country from the incursions of the Indians, could 
not remain together for the purpose of defending the capital from their 
hostile governor, who Avas quietly Availing in the river for them to depart, in 
order that he might again resume possession. AVhat could be done with 
a town Avhich could not be defended, and if defended was of no value to the 
possessors; but which AA^as all-important to the enemy? The answer to 
this question was manifest, and Bacon's proposal for its destruction Avas 
received with acclamation ; sevei'al of his foUoAvers, Avho OAvned the most 
valuable houses, applying the firebrand Avith their own hands to their OAvn 
property. The sight of the flames started Sir William Berkeley on a 
cruize to Accomac ; and Bacon haAang OA^ercome all opposition to the 
government established by the convention, dismissed his troops to their 
homes. 

We have little account of Bacon's proceedings after this successful ter- 
mination of his labors; Ave presume he did not do much as he Avas ill of a 
disease caught by sleeping exposed in the trenches before Jamestown, 
which in a short time terminated his existence. He died at the house of a 
Mr. Pate in Gloucester county. Thus died the distinguished individual, 
who overcame both the foreign and domestic enemies of his country, and 
left it enjoying the blessings of a free government. Had he liA^ed precisely 
a century later he would haA^e been one of the distinguished heroes of the 
revolution, and historians would haA^e delighted as much in eulogizing his 
conduct as they haA-e, under existing circumstances in blackening his cha- 
racter. He accomplished all which it was possible for him to do. He 
sever opposed the British government but only foreign enemies, and do- 
mestic mal-administratioQ, Avhieh he succeeded in defeating. He seems al- 
ways to have acted by the consent and wish of the people, and never to 
have sought self-agrandizement. It Avas manifestly impossible lor him to 
elevate himself to absolute power in Virginia without the consent of the 
government in England, and the people of Virginia; and the idea of resist- 
ing both of these powers was absurd. For all the evils which accrued to 
the country after his death, and the restoration of Sir William Berkeley, he 
has been unjustly made responsible, Avhilst he has receiA^ed no credit for his 
good conduct, or the beneficial acts passed by the legislature during his as- 
cendency. In short Ave can see no difference between his course, and that 
pursued in the previous expulsion of Sir John Harvey from the government, 
or the subsequent treatment of Lord Dunmore and many other royal go- 
vernors at the commencement of the revolution. The only difference be- 
tween the patriots of 1676 and 1776 was in the establishment of a free go- 
vernment, subject to the general controul of Great Britain, which was all 
that could be done in 1676, and the establishmeni of a free government in- 
dependent of Great Britain, Avhich v.'as accomplislied in 1776. The unfor- 
tunate death of Bacon, and the power of the mother country, destroyed irr 
a great measure the benefit of the exertion of the little band of patriots of 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 607 

the first period, whilst the benefit of the latter have continued to exist. The 
loyal writers after the re-establislunent of Berkeley, sought to hide his pu- 
sillanimity by extolling his virtues, and blackening his adversary, in which 
they have been blindly followed by other writers, who have attribut- 
ed the subsequent misery to the previous rebellion instead of to the avarice, 
malignity and revenge of the governor and his party, seeking to overawe 
and suppress popular indignation, and break the strength of the popular 
party by the forcible exertion of arbitrary authority, as well as to avenge 
themselves for the indignities to which their own folly subjected them. On 
the other hand the patriots of the revolution have only received the just re- 
ward of their merit, in the lavish praises of a grateful posterity ; and the 
loyal party of their day, has been justly handed down to universal execra- 
tion.* 

* It will be seen that we have formed a more favorable opinion of Bacon and his co- 
adjutors than has been generally expressed. This opinion was formed by a hasty 
perusal of all the documents to be found on the subject in Hening and Burke. We 
have followed in our account of his life the Breviare and Conclusum in Burke, which 
we believe is authentic; 1st. Because it was written by the king's commissioners, 
who would naturally be in favor of government, and were sent over at the special in- 
stance of Sir William Berkeley and upon his representations ; 2nd. Because their ac- 
count is impartial, and consistent with itself and with other evidence ; 3rd. Because 
they took every means to inform themselves, and could not have been infected with 
the warm partizan feeling of either side; 4th. And lastly, because the "justification 
of Sir William Berkeley," which was manifestly written by a warm friend and parti- 
zan, whilst it denies the truth of the Breviare and Conclusum, with regard to Sir 
William's conduct subsequent to the rebellion, does not deny its truth with regard to 
the history of the rebellion itself. 

We see no act of aggression on the part of Bacon; the civil war is alwa)'s 
commenced by the governor, whilst Bacon's attention is constantly diverted 
to hostilities with the Indians. We do not see Bacon arrogating power to 
himself but to the people. We find him after his first conduct acknowledging 
himself in error and asking pardon, and when we see him afterwards bringing 
citizens to Jafflesto\^Ti, it is not to put supreme pdwer into his own hands or to over- 
awe the legislature which was favorable to him, but it is to force the governor by the 
clamors of the people, to give him the commission which was so necessary to the" pre- 
servation of the colonists from the iucursions of the savages. When he obtains this 
commission we do not see him use it agam.st his country but its enemies. But the go- 
vernor first signs an indemnit}', and even a letter to the king justitying and extolling 
the conduct of Bacon, and then when he is oat of sight declareshim a rebel and a 
traitor and prepares troops to oppose him, not in making Avar upon his country, but in 
actually fighting the Indians under his commissiQp.^ and after his letter of praise. 
■Ondertbese circumstances, when the governor actWd in a manner so friendly to the 
Indians and so hostile to the coimtr}-, it was the duty of every honest man to resist his 
efibrts, and to deprive him of his authority, to prevent his ruining the country which 
he ought to have protected. This Bacon did. But did he then seize the reins of go- 
vernment, and play the tyrant, — no, he defeated the Indians, and would have dis- 
banded his army, had not the governor put down the government Which the people 
established, and again set up his own authority, and declared Bacon's gallant little 
army traitors. Would it have been just to have then disbanded them to become the 
victims of his vengeance'? Surely not. But it was his duty to drive out the hostile 
governor, and establish the power of the people, and then retire. 

We may obtain much light upon the subject of Bacon's character and conduct, by 
observing that an immense majority of the people were always on his side, and that 
he acted by their advice and authority as far as possible. The governor was only 
sustained by a few haughty aristocrats of his own stamp,— his warmest friends admit 
(Burke, vol. II. p. 185,^ that when he went fo Accomac he had not more than 20 men 
to stand by him; and that most of his followers in his return to Jamestown, were des- 
picable wretches, who were only induced to take sides with him against their country 
by the promise of plunder, to be taken from the discomfitted rebels. (Breviare and 
Conclusum : Burke, vol, II. p. 252.) 



608 lIISTOny OF VIRGINIA. 

The death of Bacon, by leaving the republicans without a head, revived 
the courage of the governor so far, that he ventured in his ships to move 
about upon the bay and rivers and attack the inhabitants wherever he could 
find them defenceless, and snatch a little plunder to gratify his needy fol- 
lowers; always retiring when the opposite party appeared to oppose him. 
This predatory species of warfare, preventing the quiet pursuit of agricul- 
tural labors, and destroying all the comfort and happiness of society with- 
out producing any beneficial result, soon grew wearisome to both parties. 
Sir William Berkeley whose cruelties, especially to his prisoners* had 
gone far to keep up the enthusiasm of popular excitement, finding that his 
name had ceased to strike that awe which habitual respect for one high in 
authority had formerly given it, and that his punishments excited indigna- 
tion rather than terror, felt disposed to take advantage b}'^ milder means of 
the returning pacific disposition on the part of a people whose stubborn 
tempers could not be brought into obedience by force. With this view 
he treated his prisoners with more liberality, published an act of general in- 
demnity, and proposed a treaty of peace to Ingram and Walklate, the prin- 
cipal leaders o( the opposing party since the death of Bacon. So anxious 
were the people to be relieved from the present confusion and anarchy, and 
the governor once more to rule with uncurbed sway, that a treaty was 
speedily concluded, only stipulating on the part of the governor a general 
oblivion, and indemnity of past ofiences, and on the part of his opponents a 
surrender of their arms and a restoration of such property as they had 
taken. Thus easily did these unfortunate men deliver themselves again 
into the lions power, after having defeated him at all points, and inflicted 
deep and irremediable woundsupon his inflated vanity, and pompous mock- 
dignity. The governor when he had his enemies in his power, instead of 
trying to heal the wounds of the bleeding state by mildness and concilia- 
tion, only added to its sufTerings by a bloody retribution for all the trouble 
which he had been made to endure. Fines and confiscations for the bene- 
fit of his excellency became the order of the day, and an occasional execu- 
tion as an extra treat to his vengeance. He at first attempted to wrest the 
honest juries of the county to his purpose, but in vain, — ten prisoners were 
acquitted in a single day. Finding that his enemies were thus likely to 
escape his grasp by the unflinching integrity, and sense of justice prevailing 
among the people, he determined to avoid the use of a court constituted 
upon principles of the English constitution, which he found so little subser- 
vient to his will; and tried his next victims under martial law. He here 
found a court of more congenial spirit;?. The commissioners of the king 
give an account of some of these trials, such as thej' were carried on even 
after their arrival, which mark well the spirit of the times. " We also ob- 
served some of the royal party, that sat on the bench with us ai the trial, to 
be so forward in impeaching, accusing, reviling, the prisoners at bar, with 
that inveteracy, as if they had been the worst of witnesses, rather than jus- 
tices of the commission; both accusing and condemning st the same time. 
This severe way of proceeding represented to the assembly, they voted an 
address to the governor, that he would desist from any further sanguinary 
punishments, for none could tell when or where it would terminate. So 
the governor was prevailed on to hold his hands, after hanging 23. "f 

A notable way which the governor adopted to replenish his purse 

♦See Sarah Drumniond's petition, — Hening, vol. II. p. 558. 
■f Breviare and Conch's^um in Eurkc vol. II. p. 258. 



mSTORY UF VIRGINIA. 609 

^tfter Lhe disasters ol llic war, was to relieve the rebels from a trial in ona of 
his courts inurlial, in which they were to be condemned, upon their paying- 
iiiin a great portion of their estates, by \yay of compromise. This method 
of disposing of men's estates without trial or conviction was protested 
against by his majesty's co.niniissioners as a gross violation of the la-.vs of 
England, but which Sir William's friends seem to think only a just retri- 
bution for the losses sustained by liimself and the royal party durir.g the 
rebellion* Enormous fines payable in provision were also found a conve- 
nient method of providing for the king's troops which had been sent over 
to subdue the colony. 

His majesty's commissioners fortunately arrived in time to stay the v.'rath 
of the vindictive old man, who would as an eye witness says, "he verily 
believes, have hanged half the county if they had let him alone."! They 
urged him in vain to publish the king's proclamation of a general prirdor. 
and indemnity, and then proceedqd to hold their commission for hearing 
lind redressing grievanqes. As the proceedings of the governor diffused a 
gloom, the generality of which was co-extensive with the immense na.rn- 
bers that were engaged in the rebellion, so did the proceedings of the com- 
missioners spread a universal joy. Crowds of persons now came forward 
to present their grievances; widows and orphans to ask for the confiscated 
esUtes'of their husbands, and fathers who had been butcrhered by the inili- 
lary tribunals of the governor; others come in to complain of the seising' 
their estates without the form of a trial, and many who had submitted i.hsijQ- 
selves upon . the governor's proclamation of indemnity and pardon, con." 
plained .of'subsequent imprisonment and cpafiscatrons of their prcptrty. 

The commissioners state in thsi^':|e];^:ff*tb- the king'ahd council,— tha; 
" in the whole course of their proceedings they had' avoided receivrog any 
complaints of public grievances'; but by and under the hand-of the most cvei- 
ible, l.oyal and sober persons of each county, wutli caution, that they di.l not 
do it in any 'mutinous mianner, arid without mixture of their old leaven, bat 
in si\z\i sort as might become dutiful 'subjects and sober,, rational men t j 
present." When they found that all their representations to Sir Williait!. 
Bjrkeley, to endeavor to induce him to restore the confiscated estates, which 
were in the possession of himself or his most faithful friend.?, were in vain, 
th.sy ascertained as many of the possessors as possible, and made them girs 
security to take care of them, until his majesty should determine as.tc ths 
restitution, which they recommended him to make. The ccmmissioi^GTS 
also devised several matters of utilrty 'for iffe^tace, good governmen': vc:^. 
safety. of the colony, which they recommended his majesty to adopt, li.r 
"Wilfiam Berkeley returned in'the fleet to England, leaving Sir Herbert 
Jeffries, who had been sent over with the commissioners, as governor. — 
Upon his arrival he found that hiscruel conduct in Virginia was looked 
upon with horror by most of his former friends, and the council, and was 
not sustained by the king, subservient loyalty to whom had been the source 
and spring of 'his high-handed measures. The old knight, thus finding 
himself execrated in 'Virginia, and despised in England, soon ^anguished 
and died under the load of infamy, with which he had crushed the fair fani« 
of his earlier years. Thus ended the life of Sir William Berkeley, a go- 
vernor, whose early character historians havo rlcli-lif'-d to honor, and 



*Justifi'-ation of Berkeley, in Bnrke, vol. 11. p. 2&. 
iPreoslv, oaoled in Bivrkp, vol II. p. t'OS. 

" ' 77 



6 1 HiSTuK V OF V 1 KG i N f .4. 

whose subsequetit tcnduct ihey have sought to excuse; but' of whom we can 
find nothing better upon record, than the negative merit of not opposing the 
legislature in its schemes of governtnent, in the early part of his reign; but 
whose latter years are disgraced by cowardly imbecillity, and stained with 
crime. 

Before we take leave of the transaction which lias been termed in com- 
plaisance to the royal governor, Bacon's Rebellion, it may not be amiss to 
cast a hurried glance at the laws passed by the Legislature which met 
under his influence ; which must go far with posterity in determining 
whether the name of rebels or patriots would be most consistent with the 
character of their acts. They strike first at the most important and pres- 
sing subject, and the one which had been most neglected, — the Indian war. 
They provide efficient means for conducting it, and for regulating the 
army. The next act prescribed regulations for Indian trading, the abuse 
of which was thought to have been very mischievous. They next pray 
his majesty's governor and council that the lands w hich had been set apart 
at the last peace exclusively for the Indians, and which had been or might' 
be subsequently deserted by them, might not be granted away to individu- 
als, but might be used for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the 
war. The fourth act looks very little like an encouragement of rebellion, 
—reciting that tumults, riots and unlawful assemblies had recently been 
frequent, they inake it the duty of every officer, civil and military in the 
country, to aid in suppressing them, and the duty of all citizens to assist 
?uch officers under penalty of punishment for refusal, and the governor is 
specially requested to assemble a force at the public charge with all possi- 
ble' expedition, to siipptess s«ciF-*uaa}jlts, and inflict condign punishmenlf 
upon the ofifenders ; which says the act "will conduce to the great safety 
and peace of this coimtry, and enable us the better to defend ourselves 
against the barbarous and common enemy." This single act sheds more 
Ught upon the history of the times and exhibits more plainly the history 
of the views of the principal attors than any or perhaps all other docu- 
mei^ts. ; we see in it the reason why no private persons took advantage of 
tie unsettled state of afTairs to disturb the public peace, and that there w^as 
no tumult or armed force except the regular army raised by the Assembly 
and put under Bacon's corn«jand, and no rebellious assembly except the" 
miscreant crew raised by Berkeley in opposition to the government estab- 
lished by the people. 

Having thus provided fos^^wrfety Jr^m foe."? without and for peace within, 
fhfi Assembly next proceeded to the investigation of abuses by civil officers. 
Under this head they made several provisions for the prevention of abuses? 
which have been found so well devised that they have continued in use to 
the present day. They next provide against the long continuance of ves- 
tries in office ; for the electian of burgesses by freemen as well as freeholders; 
and against false returns of burgesses. Their eighth act provides against 
abuses committed by the justices in laying county levies, and requires that a 
nutnber of discreet men chosen by the people, equal in number to the jus- 
tices appointed by the governor, should act with the justices in laying the 
county levy. They next empowered the county courts to select their own 
r:olle.ctors of county levies and dues; and prohibit any member of the 
cauncil from sitting on the county court bench. Passing some acts of less 
general importance, but which were wise and useful, Ave eome to an act of 
general pardon and indemnity for all crimes committed between !he first of 



HISTORY OP VIRGINIA 615 

March ami twenty-fifth of June, passed "out of a heartr and pious dpsirfi' 
to put :in end to all suits and controversies, that by occasion of the late 
fatal distractions have arisen," "and to bury all seeds of future discord and 
remembrance of anything whereby the citizens might be obnoxious to any 
p:jins or penalties whatsoever." 

Their last act deprives Edward Hill and John Stith forever of the right 
to hold any office of trust, judicature, or profit, because it was notoriously 
manifest that they had been the greatest instruments in raising, promoting, 
and stirring up the late difTorences and misunderstanding that had arissn 
between the honorable governor and his n^ajesty's good and loyal subjects. 
The acts of this Assembly were signed by Berkeley in all due form, but 
were subsequently all declared void, though many of them were ra-enaeted' 
by the Legislature,, which under the influence and control of Berkeley, de- 
clared them void. ' 

Although the people of Virguna had laid down their arras they were 
not subdued, but continued to manifest through their Legislature the sauve 
undaunted tenacity of their rights which had ever characterised them: 
This was exhibited towaids the king's commissioners in one of the boldest 
defences of privilege which the records of any nation can exhibit, and 
shows how strongly imbued with the spirit of freedom the people must 
have been when they could snufl' the approach of tyranny at such a dis- 
tance, and put themselves on their defence against their friends, lest their 
enemies might take advantage of their concessions. The king's commis- 
sioners were empowered to call for persons and papers, for the purpose of 
prosecuting more effectually their in^iifjes^nto the grievances of the colo- 
ny. In conformity with their powers they called upon the secretary 'A 
the Legislature for its journals, but were surpri.sed to find that although- 
their proceedings were popular, and their object was to investigate and ref 
4ress grievances of which these very men complained, that they refused, to 
allow them to inspect their journals, returning for answer that it \vtsx 
dangerous precedent which might be used in violation of their pnvilires: 
At this time the governor and commissioners had complete physical povrer 
over the colony by the entire absence of anything like organized opposi- 
tion, and from the presence of the king's troops ; and availing themselves 
of this power they did not hesitate to wrest the journals of the Assemhif 
from the hands of its officer by force. Upon which the Virginia Assem- 
bly published a bold and manly declamttooy wlimg forth "that his majesty '3 
commissioners having called for and forced from the clerk of the Assembly 
all -the original journals of the Assembly, which power they supposed his 
majesty would not grant them, for that they find not the same to have been 
practised by any of the kings of England, and did therefore take th<j samft 
to be a violation of their privileges, desiring withall satisfaction to be g-iven 
them that they might be assured no such violation of their privileges should 
be oflfered for the future." The king was so much displeased with thi& 
declaration, that although he pardoned the members of the Legislature, he 
directed the record of it to be erased, and required the governor to propose 
a bill to the next General Assembly condemning the proceeding, and de-- 
daring the right of his majesty and his officers to call for all the public 
records and journals whenever they shall think U necessary for his royal 
service.* 

*HenJng, vol. II. p. 361. 



3142- HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

Sir Herbert JefTries deserves the merit due to an advantageous treaty with 
the Indians, and a successful opposition to the petty intrigues of the loyal- 
ists. He died in 1678, leaving- the colony in the hands of the Lieutenant 
governor, Sir Henry Chickerly, during whose administration magazines 
and forts were established at the heads of the four gresjt rivers to overawe 
the savages, and a silly act passed prohibiting the importation of tobacco 
ffom Carolina and Maryland for the purpose nf transhipment, which prac- 
tice if they had suffered it to continue might have proved very profitable to 
the colony, besides putting the tobacco trade more exclusively into its own 
hands, in the succeeding spring Sir Henry delivered the government to 
Lord Culpeper. The first act of his lordship was to declare full and un- 
qualified indemnity to all for their conduct in Bacon's rebellion, and allow- 
ing reparation to those who should be reproached for their conduct upon 
that occasion. This popular act, added to the pleasing ,ax)d conciliatory 
manners of his. lordship, so won upon the good-natured simplicity of the 
Assembly, that they passed an act which probably no force could have ex- 
torted from them. They raised the duties and made them perpetual instead 
of annual as before, and what was at once surrendering up the great bu|- 
\vark of that freedom for the safety of which they had been so long con- 
tending, they made the duties henceforth subject to his majesty's sole direc- 
ti'^r and disposal. 

The king rewarded Culpeper's address in obtaining this acquisition ta 
.,.13 power, by the addition of a thousand pounds to his salary and one hun- 
dred and sixty pounds per annum for his rent. The Assembly too, as if 
tbsy could not do enough for a fp^^l, governor who could condescend i& 
soiile upon them, granted his excellency a regular duty proportionate to 
the tonnage of every vessel trading to Virginia. Culpeper having thus 
.:.:?.ined a considerable increase to his revenue by his trip to Virginia,- 
i.rcceeded to England to enjoy it, leaving the colony once more with Si)- 
Ksnry Chicherly. 

The discontents of the people again began to extend to a degree which 
•rould scarcely be kept within bounds. The troops which had been serjf 
y\'sr to suppress Bacon's Rebellion were still kept up. There were no 
:?.;Tacks and the people positively refused to receive these jdle and trou- 
bles :)me drones into their houses, although they were regularly billeted by 
the government. The low price of tobacco too was a never failing source 
cf complaint, as well as the- cpmrnercial regulations which aided in pro- 
ducing it. The colony had urged Culpeper to exert his influence at court 
to procure a ccssalion from planting, to which they had for some time iu 
rain endeavored to obtain the assent of Carolina and Maryland. 

To these evjls another was now added which struck another blow at 
somaierce. The idea had been conceived that the colony could not pros- 
per without towns, and to promote their growth the planters living princi- 
pally on the shores of the magnificent Chesapeake and the broad naviga- 
*ole rivers of Virginia, were required to bring their produce to particular 
spots for the purpose of being shipped. Thus taxing the planter with 
unnecessary freight and commission for the benefit of such idlers as might 
congregate in the towns. These acts wqtq enforced by heavy penalties, 
a-id as they contributed very much to the benefit of the town's people, the 
penalty for the violation was rigorously enforced. These prosecutions 
drove many traders from the country, and the' poor planters to whom it 
w;):: physically impossible to convey their crops to tjicse paper-towns, were 



HISTORY (>F VIRGINIA. 61-^ 

tioomwl to sec llipir crops rotting- on their hands by this injudicious legis- 
lation, or if they attempted to evade the law, liave them wrested from them in 
the shape of penalties.* These several subjects of complaint induced the 
people of several counties to petition the deputy governor to call an assem- 
bly, to endeavor to provide a remedy for the evils. At the meeting of the 
Assembly, there was much debate and declamation upon the condition of 
the country, but no measure of relief was adopted. By order of the king 
however the two cotnpanies of infantry were paid off and disbanded, which 
put an end to one of the subjects of difficulty. The dissolution of the As- 
sembly without effecting anything caused the impatience of the poor and 
ignorant people of several of the counties to break through all restraint, 
and expend their wrath in the destruction of tobacco plants, at a season of 
the year when it was too late to sow more seed. Sir Henry Chicherly 
with commendable moderation only took measures to stop these misguided 
people, without resorting to harsh punishments, but lest it should be drawn 
into a precedent, the Legislature not long afterwards made it treason.! In 
the mean time Lord Culpeper arrived and his haughty hearing to the Council 
and the Burgesses soon gave intimation to them that his Lordship's feelings 
towards the colony had undergone a change. He enlarged, in his speech 
to the Assembly, much upon the favor of his majesty in disbanding the 
troops, and spoke of permission which he had obtained to raise the value 
of the current coin, — he then went on to declare that the colonists did not 
deserve these gracious favors, but rather punishment for their recent turbu- 
lence ; he also expressed his majesty's great dissatisfaction at the refusal of 
the journals, and desired that that portion of their proceedings should be 
expunged. 

The Assembly expressed their gratitude for the concessions which had 
been made by the king, but at the same time with admirable good sense, 
and a knowledge of the principles of commerce which shows that they 
were not acting blindfold with regard to the alterations in the price of tobacco 
heretofore alluded to, protested by a large majority against raising the 
value of the coin ; stating as a reason that the exercise of this dangerous* 
power would be made a precedent, and specie which of course as the 
standard of other value should be as fixed as possible itself, would be blown 
about by the breath of the governor, and the people would have no cer- 
tainty of the value of the coin in their pockets. They stated moreover 
that it Avas the duty of the Legislature to enact all laws for the regulation 
.of commerce, and of course to prescribe the current price of specie, and 
tbey accordingly introduced a bill for that purpose ; but this bill, which 
was necessary, as the coins of many different countries were in circulation, 
was stopped short in its progress by the governor, who declared that it was 
trespassing upon executive prerogative, and that he would veto any bill 
which the legislature might pass upon the subject. He then proceeded to 
fix the value himself by proclamation, raising the current price considera- 
bly, but making exception of his own salary and the revenue of the king. 
This exception was in effect nothing more or less than a new tax of the 
most odious and oppressive ciiajacter, and the colony plainly recognised it 
as such, and refused to regard the exceptions, but paid the revenue as other 
debts according to the new standard. And the gfovernor afraid to brin^r 



♦ Hening, vol. II. 501-2-3., nnrl Biirk, vol. IT. p. 2?.0. 
tHcnin?,, vol. III. p. 11. 



514 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA: 

such a case before any court of law, which lie well knew would expose, 
his contemptible meanness, and yet afraid to allow his proclamation to be 
openly disregarded, Avhich would have put an end at once to the authority 
of his edicts, was compelled by the dilemma to lower the value of the coin 
as suddenly as he had raised it. This was at once realizing all the worst, 
anticipations of the legislature as to the arbitrary fluctuations in the standard 
of value, besides being highly unjust and oppressive to such persons as 
had made payment of debts according to the new standard, and such as had 
given credit during the time of the alteration. The governors had by some 
means been suffered to exercise the power of dissolving the Assemblies, 
and this having now grown into a usage was a favorite method of silencing 
their clamors, and they having rashly made the provision for the revenue 
perpetual and put the control of that subject into the king's hands, were 
bound hand and foot, and eould not control executive usurpation by stopping 
the wheels of government. The governor now made use of this danger- 
ous power and dissolved the Assembly. The governor thus left without a 
.■ watch or control over his actions proceeded to a vigorous exercise of ex- 
ecutive powers. The unfortunate plant-cutters who had merely been im- 
prisoned, and such of them dismissed from time to time as would give 
assurance of penitence, and promise a peaceable demeanor, were now pro- 
ceeded against with the utmost rigor for what the king was pleased to call 
their treasonable conduct. But the noblest victim for tyrannical persecu- 
tion was Robert Beverly, the former clerk of the Assembly, who had re- 
fused to give up its papers without authority from "his masters, the house 
of Burgesses." For some reasoo ii seems that an inspection of journals 
was demanded by the council again in 1682, and Beverley again refusing 
to deliver them was thrown into prison, in a king's ship, the Duke of York, 
then lying in the river, his persecutors being afraid to trust him to the 
keeping of the jails among his countrymen. Whilst he was in prison a 
committee of the council Avas appointed to seize the papers, which he fore- 
seeing this event had secreted. The pretence for this imprisonment were 
the most frivolous that can well be imagined; he is accused of fomenting 
di.scord and stirring up the late partial insurrections, but the only specific 
act of which he was accused was setting on foot petitions for an Assem- 
bly.* Under these arbitrary proceedings he was detained a prisoner, de- 
nied the writ of habeas corpus, and hurried about from prison to prison 
until the governor at last thought proper, after two years searching for 
charges, to commence a regular prosecution. 

The accusation consisted of three heads: — 

1st. That he had broken open public letters, directed to the Secretary's 
office, with the writs enclosed for calling an Assembly, in April 1682, and 
took upon him the exercise of that part of the government, which belongs 
to the Secretary's office and was contrary to his ; — 

2nd. That he had made up the journal, and inserted his majesty's letter 
therein (which was first communicated to the house of Buigesses at their 
prorogation) after their prorogation; — 

3d. That he had refused to deliver copies of the journal of the house of 
Burgesses in 1682, to the lieutenant governor and council, saymg, "that 
he might not do it without leave of his masters." 

This was all which could be charged again.^t this faithful officer, aftet.so 

♦Hening, vol. III. p. 543. 



klS'i'URY OF VlRGlNfi. 61S- 

long aij imprisonment, and so long a preparation for ihe pioSfcution. But 
of course they will not bear scrutiny, being only a flimsy veil thrown over 
their designs, rather indicating a wish to hide the naked deformity of the 
prosecution, than actually concealing it. 

Before this notable prosecution was ended Lord Culpeper forfeited his 
commission, and was superceded by Lord Howard, who took the oaths of 
office on the 28th of February 1684. His first measure was to call an as- 
sembly which as a popular act, induced the colony to hope some degree of 
mildness in his administrauon; but these hopes were soon dissipated. He 
pursued the unfortunate plant-cutters with renovated vigor, and such of 
them as had been e.xcepted in a proclamation of general pardon, were now 
executed and their estates after paying officer's fees, appropriated to the go- 
vernor's own use. 

The assembly met and refused to proceed with business for the want of a 
clerk, as their former clerk was in prison, and they refused to elect another. 
In this situation of afTairs the matter seems to have been compromised, the 
governor no doubt despairing of his conviction upon the absurd charges 
made, and Beverley and his friends willing to end his long imprisonment 
and sufferings, by asking pardon, at the same time not giving up the pa- 
pers or the principles for which he suffered. Be this as it may Beverley 
threw himself upon the mercy of the court, declining to employ counsel or 
make any defence, and was pardoned.* Probably these long continued 
sufferings, with other persecutions afterwards endured, injured the constitu- 
tion of Beverley, for we find that he died prior to April 1687. His noble 
conduct induced king James the then reigfiixig monarch, to deprive the 
Burgesses of the election of their own clerk, "ordering the governor to elect 
hhn, and requiring the assembly to make the clerk so elected, the usual al- 
lowance for his services. . 

The accession of James H. was proclaimed with the usual demonstrations 
p, , ._ iroc of respect in the colony, and complimentary assurances of 
' ■ loyalty on the one side and gracious regard on the other, 

were exchanged between his subjects and the assembly. But nothing was 
done to secure the freedom of the colony, and Lord Howard took advan- 
tage of the succeeding recess of the assembly, to enlarge the fe^s and per- 
quisites of his office, and to impose new ones without the advice or authori- 
ty of the assembly. This body which met in November, immediately toak 
into consideration these arbitrary exactions, aia4- passed spirited resolutions, 
in reprobation of them, and made provislori for the defence of the citizens 
from similar encroachments in future. To these acts the governor applied 
his negative, without assigning any reason Lord Howard not satisfied 
with thus stopping the legislation of the colony, proceeded in effect to acts 
of executive legislation, by issuing a proclamation, in obedience he said to 
the king's instructions, repealing several acts of the legislature, which were 
themselves repeals of former acts, and declaring the acts repealed by that 
body to be revived, and in full force as before the passage of the repealing 
acts. This proclamation the assembly protested against as illegal and un- 
warrantable, as utterly subversive of the government, annihilating the right 
of the popular branch, and bringing all to bow in humble submission to the 



■H€ning, v. III. p. 518-9. Ibid p. 550. 



616 IJISTORV OF VIRGINU, 

mercy of the preiog-uive. The spiiiled conduct of the Burgesses, could 
p. i)^ icsrt ^^^ be endured by the gevernor and he prorogued iheui. 
■ '" ' ■ The governor had sent to James an account of the conduct 

of this assembly. This representation produced in reply from James, a: 
furious, quarrelsome order, calling their conduct mutinous, and attributing 
it to their " unquiet dispositions and sinister intentions to protract the time 
of their sitting to the great oppression of his subjects, from whom they re- 
ceived wages;" concluding by an order for the prosecution of their clerk 
Beverley, to whom he ascribes all of these evils. 

In the same year several persons were imprisoned and punished for 
treasonable expressions. The council was now as servile as the governor 
could wish, and he proceeded without interruption in his system of arbitra- 
ry innovation upon the established usuages of the colony, and the liberties of 
its citizens. 

The province of New York belonged to the king as proprietor as well 
^ .„ irS7 ^^ sovereign;- and in order to strengthen this his own es- 
' ■ tate, he sent orders for all the other colonics to assist in 

building fo'rts, and supplying garrison© for its western frontier, allcdging 
that these measures were equally necessary for the proiection of all; in con- 
formity to these orders a message was received from governor Dtmgan, re- 
(juiring the quota of Virginia, but the legislature refused to appropriate a. 
man or a farthing for purposes from which they were to derive no benefit 
but rather an injury, as the protection of the north-vvestern frontier avouM 
drive the Indians further south, where they might commit their depreda- 
tions upon the unprotected citizens with more impunity. 

Whilst the colony was contending against their governor, a revolution' 

i,'c.o in England had dethroned the sovereign, and ])laced William and 

Mary upon the throne. This change whilst it placed the council 

which had made many loyal professions to James, in an awkward position, 

was an event producing analloyed joy to the people of Virginia, as they 

could now hope for justice to be done to their oppressive governor. 

Soon after this occurrence the war broke out between the allied powers 
and Lewis XIV. of France, and the colony was ordered to place itself in the 
best posture of defence. 

The complaints of the Virginia legislature against their governor at 
length were taken up by the privy council, and although the charges against 
Howard were not tried, yet redress against his usurpation was granted, at 
the same time that the principles upon which they contended that their 
rights had been violated, were denied to be correct. Howard pleading ill- 
health was not deprived of his commission for not returning to the colony, 
but as it was necessary that there should be a governor upon the eve of u 
war. Sir Francis Nicholson was sent over. His conduct was mild and con- 
ciliatory, and consequently popular; among other highly beneficial acts 
passed under his government, was one for the establishment of a college 
which was very liberally endowed. 

He was succeeded by Sir Edmund Andros as governor-in-chief, who is 

Q 1 on lfif>0 represented to have been actuated in his administration by 

^* ' '^ ' ■ a sound judgment and a liberal policy; to have been, exact, 

diligent and methodical in the management of business; of a conciliatory 

deportment and great generosity.* Sir Francis Nicholson was again made 



*Burk, vol. 11. p. ai(j. 



I^iSTORY OF VIRGINIA. -8l7 

governor-in-chlef, in November 1698. He was an ambitious man, who had 
served in the capacity ot a governor, and deputy governor in several of the 
colonies, and taken great pains to become popular, and to make himself 
well acquainted with the situation of all the colonies, — their wants, — their 
trade, and their capabilities, with a view to unite them if possible under one 
government, over which he hoped to obtain the appointment of governor 
general. The pressure of war with the combined foice of the French and 
Indians, which seemed now about to fall upon the colonies, and rendered 
some union necessary for the purpose of defence, seemed highly favorable 
to his design. 

The French at an early day conceived a correct idea of the importance 
of the British colonies in America. The'Count De Callier, governor of 
Montreal, during his residence in Canada, after a long experience derived 
from observations on the spot, had formed the bold project of separating in two 
the English colonies by the ca))ture of New York. The success of this 
scheme would manifestly have destro3"ed that concert so necessary'' to har- 
njony and efficiency of co-operation, and left the other colonies liable to be 
cut off in detail, and would eftectually establish the safety of Canada by 
enabling the French to keep in check the powerful savage confederation, 
composed of the Five Nations which had lately by a furious irruption laid 
waste the country even to the gates of Montreal and Quebec. This plan ot 
o . if^no Callier's was adopted by the French government. A fleet was 

" ■ ■ "■ sent to the bay of New York, with orders to retain possession 
of it, until December, when if no further orders were received, it was to sail 
for Port Royal, land its munition and Mo?t'.s and return to France. The 
land force were to have marched from Cluebec by the route of the Sorel 
river and Lake Champlain. This expedition v.as defeated by a destructive 
Inroad of the Five Nations, which carried death and desolation over the 
wliole country, even to the very gates of the capital. This unforeseen oc- 
currence rendered it necessary to retain the whole force at home in niea 
sures ot self defence, and saved New York, without her having to strike a 
blow in her own behalf 

The British government daily becoming more sensible of (be importance 
of the North American colonies, and seeing the danger to which they were 
exposed by the plan of De Callier, set on foot a plan of general defence in 
the year 1695, adjusting the quotas of each colony to thd ratio of its popu- 
lation, and forwarding the scale to th^. diSki^m governors, to recommend 
for the adoption of the respective colonial assemblies. Several of the colo- 
nies rejected this scheme, because .several of those wh'rh were thought most 
exposed wished to employ it as their own interest dictated. Among the re- 
fractory ,vvas Virginia, which could not be prevailed upon by all the art and 
ingenuity of the governor, aided by his great enthusiasm in this hi.-s favor- 
ite plan, — to vote a cent to the enterprize, — to his inconceivable chagrm- 
and mortification. Nicholson finding his own efforts utterly unavailing, 
laid the matter before the king, and urged the propriety of forcing Virginia 
to see her true interests upon this occasion William in reply recomm.end- 
ed a new consideration of the matter by the Gerreral Assembly, alledgmg 
upon the authority of Nicholson's report, "that New York vvas the barrier 
of Virginia against the Indians and the French of Canada; and' as such it 
was but justice she should defend it." The a.-^sembly deemed it but due reopect 
to his majesty to take ihe-ubiect again into consideration, but found no lea- 
son to change their foiiuer ripiniou. dcl^iriiir (li,ft neilher th- Coif thpn iri 
78 



618 HKTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

bein^, nor any others that might be built in the province of New York, 
could in the least avail in the defence or security of Virginia; for that either 
the French or the northern Indians, might invade the colony, and not come 
within a hundred miles of such fort." 

The failure of this great subject irritated the governor beyoi:id expression-; 
and excited in his mind the most inordinate antipathy to the assembly. He 
charged the conduct of the assembly to a spirit of rebellion, and inveighed 
against what he called its parsimony in the most unmeasured terms, offering 
to pay the quota of Virginia out of his own pocket, and boasting afterwards 
that he had done it, but at the same time, taking the obligation of the gen- 
tleman to whom he gave the bills, that no use should be made of them un- 
til the Queen should remit money to pay them. This affectation of gener- 
osity was designed to gain popularity with the other colonies. 

The history of Virginia from this period to the breaking out of the war 
with France, presents a remarkable dearth of interesting or striking inci- 
dent, all of which could be related would be a list of the governors, a detail of 
petty domestic affairs, a gradual extension and improvement of the colony, 
and a developement of the designs of France ; designs which were seen by 
some more penetrating spirits in the colonies, and measures recommended 
to defeat them, but which received no effectual check until the war broke 
out in 1754. 



We have now traced the progress of Virginia as far as it is possible to ga 
with her affairs as an isolated province, cut off from all the world, and only 
struggling for existence at first with the savages, and afterwards for freedom 
with the mother country. She now becomes of importance in the political 
world, she emerges from obscurity and becomes a prize to be contended for 
by two of the richest and most powerful nations upon earth. She herself 
begins to feel her strength, and dares to wrestle with the civilized nations 
of the world. She becomes one of a confederacy of colonies for the purpose 
oif resisting the attacks of a foreign enemy, and finally to resist successfully 
the power of the mother country itself, and then a leading member of a con- 
federacy of independent nations. Oiir. presumption and the necessity of the 
case have led us to attempt much more than will be forgiven, but cannot al- 
lure our feeble wing to essay a iligiit so daring as would be necessary to 
survey the broad field which' now expands before us. We leave it rich, 
tempting and beautiful as it is, to be painted by some master who^e skill 
will enable him to exhibit the grandeur and symmetry of the whole, and 
yet present upon the same canvass a detail of each separate beauty. For 
ourselves, we cannot be so barbarous as to disfigure so magnificent a sub- 
ject by daubing it over with the same wretched colors, which Ave have laid 
on the preceding piece, in such extreme haste that we fear it vi^ill be difficult 
to distinguish the characters or design. For the rest our readers must be 
content with a very brief and general outline of the progress of affairs pre- 
sented in the following : — 

Shetch of Virginia, history from tht. heginning of the French war to the 
beginnitig of the Revolution. . 

After the accidental failure of De Callier's design upon New York, the 



HISTORY OF' VIRGIMA. #19 

French governors in possession of Canada and Louisiana, endeavored to 
strengthen themselves by uniting as far as possible their respective provin- 
ces. With this view, acting in concert they made no direct attacks, but con- 
tinued to extend their forts and strengthen their power by alliances with 
the wild Indian tribes located between them; thus at once endeavoring'to 
connect their possessions, — to monopolize the Indian trade; and to limit the 
British settlements. 

These designs of France produced a mission from the governor of Vir- 
ginia to the commander of a fort, erected on the Ohio, in the year 1751. 
The commissioner sent was George Washington, then 19 years old. The 
answer of the commandant was evasive. The Virginians prepared for war 
and the French commenced an attack on the American trades and forts. 

An expedition was soon sent against the French, the command of whi&h 
devolved upon Washington after the death of Col. Fry. Washington at 
first gained a trivial success against a detachment under Monsieur Jumon- 
ville, who was killed, and A\-as proceeding to the attack of fort Duquesne, 
the main object of his enterprize, when he learned that the French, consid- 
erably re-inforced were advancing; this induced him to retreat to Fort Ne- 
cessity, a small stockade work which he had erected at the Great Meadows; 
in this work he sustained the incessant fire of the French for a day, when 
the French asked a parley and Washington surrendered the place upon 
highly honorable terms, being allowed to pass with his troops and baggage 
into the settled parts of Virginia. 

Great Britain began to see the necessity of aiding" the colonies in their 
manly efl!brts to repel the enemy from tfie?? borders, and she seiit an army 
under General Braddock, to protect the colonies and drive the French from 
the Ohio. Braddock met a convention of war from" the several colonies at 
Annapolis on the 14th of April 1755, composed of the governors of New 
England, Maryland, Pennsylvania and Virginia, at which convention cOn- 
cert of military operations was agreed upon. The legislature of Virginia 
made liberal appropriations. Washington accompanie-d the expedition ae-a 
volunteer aid to Braddock. 

The fate of this unfortunate expedition is too well known, Braddock va- 
lued too highly his own military skill, and the discipline of the British 
troops, he knew nothing of the character oi his enemy, and so little did he 
esteem the provincials, (in his situation the best troops of his army,) that he 
left them all behind at fort CumbeTland, — tht» Little and ihe Great Mea- 
dows, — and Avith General Dunbar, — except three companies of Virginians, 

Braddock advanced with too much confidence, and kept up in a savag>e 
wilderness all the "pomp and circumstance of war" which his military 
education had taught him were indispensable in Europe; he advanced un- 
molested until he had crossed the Monongahpla, and arrived within a few 
miles of fort Duqufsne, when he fell into an ambuscade of French and In- 
dians; his troops were thrown into confusion, and after sustaining the mur- 
derous fire of an enemy concealed from their view for several hours, and 
having most of their officers killed, and their General mortally wounded, 
retreated in confusion ; their rear was protected by the frier^dly Indians and 
few provincials left. The array fell back upon Col. Dunbar, who was next 
in command; and who marched ofTto Philadelphia, leaving two companies 
of provincials with the sick and wounded at Fort Cumberland. 

Braddock's defeat was of course followed by barbarous and distressing 
Cruelties of the Indians to the frontier settlers; these were resisted by Wash- 



620 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 

ing-ton as well as he was able with the small force nndex his command; but 
no regular expedition was undertaken against the enemy until the year 
1758, when General Grant was disgracefully defeated before the Avails of 
fort Duquesne, by the same rigid adherence to European tactics which had 
deleated Braddock. ■.": 

After the defeat of Grant the scattered and terrified troops were again 
collected, and the fort taken by Washington in the third year of the war, 
who repaired and garrisoned it, and named it Pittsburgh, in honor of the 
minister, who then presided over the councils of Great Britain. 

The treaty of Fontainbleau in November, 1762, between Great Britain, 
France, Spain and Portugal at length put a period to the war. 

Questions touching the power of the British Parliament to interfere with 
the concerns of the colonies had arisen more than once before the war, and 
during its continuance the delicate question arose of the proportions which 
the several colonies should pay tor the common defence; the British 
ministry proposed that deputies should meet and determine the amount 
necessary, and draw on the British treasury which an turn should be reim- 
bursed by an equal tax on all the colonies to be laid by Parliament: but 
the colonies were afraid to let the lion put his paw in their pockets even to 
to take back his own, and this being no time to raise difficulties the colo- 
nial legislatures were left !« their own discretion in voting supplies, which 
they did with a libprality so disproportioned to their ability as to excite the 
praise and in some in.stances to induce a reimbursement on the part of the 
mother country. 

Virginia hud always resislr:' ■^^^'- ^^.f^rference on the part of Parliament, 
especially in the navigation a sorted as early as 1624 that she only 

had the undoubted right "t^.i>iy laxi.-:^ and impositions, and none other," 
and afterwards refused to let any member of the council of governor Berke- 
ley, in the height of his popularity, ip- aSfSist them in determining the 
amount of the public levy. Again in 1076 even stronger language was 
used and acquiesced in by the king to \vhom it was immediately addressed. 

The slight taxes imposed for the regulation of commerce and the sup- 
port of a post-office were borne by the colonies without a murmur, being 
considered only a fair compensation for a benefit received. 

In March, 1764,. the ministers declared it "expedient to raise a revenue 
on stamps in America to be paid into the king's exchequer," the discussion 
of this was postponed until,, ilijap. next .year in Parliament, but commenced 
immediately in America, and the proposition was met by every form of 
respectful petition, and indignant remonstrance ; which were however 
equally unavailing, and the stamp act passed in 1765. 

The passage of this act excited universal and indignant hostility through- 
out the colonies, which was displayed in the forms of mourning and the 
cessation of business; the courts refused to sanction the act by sitting, and 
the bar by using the stamps. In the succeeding Virginia legislature Patrick 
Henry introduced and carried among. others the following resolution: — 

"Resolved, that the General Assembly of this colony, together with his 
majesty, or substitute, have in their representative capacity, the only ex- 
chisive right and power to lay taxes and impositions upon the inhabitants 
of this colony: and that every attempt to vest such power in any person 
or persons whatsoever, other than the General Assembly aforesaid, is iilc'- 
gal, unconstitutional and unjust, and has a manifest tendency to destror 
British as well as Americnn freedom,'' 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. ^t 

After the passag-e of Henry's resolutions the governor dissolved the As- 
sembly, but the people re-elected the friends and excluded the opposcr of 
the resolutions. 

The spirited conduct of Virginia fired the ardour of the other colonies, 
they passed similar resolutions, and a general congress was proposed. 
The deputies of nine states met in New York on the first of October; they 
drafted a Declaration of Rights, a petition to the King, the Commons, and 
the Lords. The stamp act was repealed, and Virginia sent an address of 
thanks to the king and Parliament. 

The joy of the colonies was short-lived. British ministers imagined 
that they could cheat the colonies out of their opposition to taxation with- 
out representation, by laying an import duty instead of a direct tax, and 
accordingly a duty was laid upon glass, tea, paper and painter's colors; but 
this was equally against the spirit of the British constitution, and met with 
a warmer and more indignant resistance on the part of the colonies, who 
now began to believe they had little to hope from the justice of Parliament. 
The Legislature of Virginia passed very spirited resolutions, which it 
ordered to be sent only to the king : upon the passage of which the gover- 
nor dissolved it; and the members immediately met and entered unani- 
mously into a non-importation agreement. 

The British ministers perceived their error and determined to pause in 
their violence, to effect this object the governors were directed to inform 
the colonies that his majesty's ministers did not intend to raise a revenue 
in America and the duties objected to should be speedily repealed. These 
assurances made to Virginia by Lord Botetourt, a governor Avhom they 
highly respected, served with his own good conduct for a time to allav her 
suspicions of the ministry, but the course they pursued towards Masea' 
chusetts was more than sufficient to re-kindle her jealousy. She passed a 
protest declaring that partial remedies could not heal the present disorders, 
and renewed their non-importation agreement. In 1771 Botetourt died, 
and Virginia erected a statue to his memory, which still stands in the town 
of Williamsburg. 

The delay of Lord Dunmore in New York for some months after his 
appointment to the gubernatorial chair of Virginia, excited the prejudices 
of the colony, which his sending a man of some military distinction as a 
clerk, and raising a salary and fees for him out of the colony, were by no 
means calculated to dissipate. The first legislature that met compelled 
the governor to dispense with the emoluments of his secretary Capt. Foy ; 
an4 the next after thanking him for his activity in apprehending some 
counterfeiters of the colony paper, strongly reprove him for dispensing 
with the usual forms and ceremonies with which the law has guarded the 
liberty of the citizen. The same legislature having provided for the sound- 
ness and security of the currency, the punishment of the guilty, and re- 
quired the governor to respect the law; turned their eyes to their sister 
colonies, and appointed a committee of correspondence to inquire into the 
various violations of their constitutional rights by the British ministry. 

Whilst Virginia was employed in animating her sister states to resis- 
tance, her governor Avas employed in the ignoble occupation of fomenting 
jealousies and feuds between the province, which it should have been his 
duty to protect from such a calamity, and Pennsylvania, by raising difficult 
questions of boundary and exciting the inhabitants of the disputed territory 
to forswear allegiance to the latter province: hoping thus by affording a 



622 HISTOHY OF VIRGINIA. 

more immediately exciting question to draw ofl" the attention of these two 
important provinces from the encroachments of Great Britain. This 
scheme as contemptible as it was iniquitous wholly failed, through the 
good sense and magnanimity of the Virginia council. 

Lord North full of his feeble and futile schemes of cheating the colonies 
out of their rights, took off the obnoxious duties with the exception ot 
three pence per pound on tea, and with the ridiculous idea that he might 
fix the principle upon the colonies by a precedent, which should strip it ot 
all that was odious, offered a draw-back equal to the import duty. This 
induced the importation of tea into Boston harbor, which being thrown 
overboard by some of the citizens, called down upon their city all the rigor 
of the celebrated Boston port bill. 

A draught of this bill reached the Virginia legislature whilst in session, 
an animated protest, and a dissolution of the Assembly by the governor of 
course followed. On the following day the members convened in the Ra- 
leigh tavern, and in an able and manly paper expressed to their constitu- 
ents and their government those sentiments and opinions which they had 
not been allowed to express in a legislative torm. This meeting recom- 
mended a cessation of trade with the East India company, a congress of 
deputies from all of the colonies, "declaring their opinion that an attack 
upon one of the colonies was an attack upon all British America," and a 
convention of the people of Virginia. The sentiments of the people 
accorded with those of their late delegates, — they elected members who 
met in convention at Williamsburg on the first of August 1774. This 
convention went into a detailed vicW of their rights and grievances, dis- 
cussed measures of redress for the latter, and declared their determina- 
tion never to relinquish the former ; they appointed deputies to attend a 
general congress, and they instructed them how to proceed. The congress 
fnet iu Philadelphia on the 4th September, 1774. 

Whilst Virginia was engaged in her efforts for the general good she 
was not without her peculiar troubles at home. The Indians had been for 
some time waging a horrid war upon the frontiers, when the indignation 
of the people at length compelled the reluctant governor to take up arms 
and march to suppress the very savages he was thought to have encouraged 
and excited to hostility by his intrigues. 

Lord Dunmore marched the army in two divisions, the one under Col. 
Andrew Lewis he sent to ilie junction of the Great Kanawha with the 
Ohio, whilst he himself marched to a higher point on the latter river, with 
the pretended purpose of destroying tlie Indian towns and joining LewiiS 
at Point Pleasant; but it was believed with the real* object of sending the 
whole Indian force to annihilate Lewis' detachment, and thereby weaken 
the power and break dow^n the spirit of Virginia. If such was his object 
he was signally defeated through the gallantry of the detachment, which 
met and defeated the superior numbers of the enemy at Point Pleasant, 
after an exceeding hard fought day and the loss of nearly all its officers. 
The day after the victory an express arrived from Dunmore with orders 
for the detachment to join him at a di.staiK-e of 80 miles, through an ene- 
my's country, without any conceivable object but the destruction of the 

* See Memoir of Indian wars, &c. by the late Col. Stuart of Greenbrier, presented 
to the Virginia Historical and Philosophical Society by C. A. Stuart, of Augusta, 
for a strong corroboration of these suspicions. 



HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. &iZ 

corps. As these orders were given without a knowledge of the victory, 
Col. Lewis was proceeding to the destruction of the Shawanese villages, 
when he was informed that the governor had made peace. 

The state of exasperation on the part of the colonies and the stubborn 
determination of the ministry made it manifest that there must soon be 
some overt act of hostility: this act was first committed in Virginia by its 
governor, who removed the gunpowder belonging to the colony from the 
magazine in Williamsburg to his Majesty's ship Magdalen, on the night of 
the 19th of April, 1775. This act threw the whole colony into a blaze, 
the people of Williamsburg demanded immediate restitution, and their 
demands were politely evaded. The citizens of Fredericksburg offered 
assistance to the town of Williamsburg, which was deemed in danger from 
the governor, and Patrick Henry marched at the head of a company of 
Hanover volunteers and forced the king's treasurer to make just compen- 
sation for the powder. The governor called a council which advised him 
to issue a proclamation calling the people to their duty, which he accord- 
ingly did, but with an effect so little beneficial to himself, that feeling no 
longer safe he sent for marines to protect him in his palace, and Captain 
Montague threatened to fire upon York if the detachment was interrupted. 
This threat excited in a still greater degree the animosity of the people, 
whose open and bitter denunciations so alarmed the governor as to make 
him again have recourse to his council, which advi-sed recourse to an as- 
sembly to appease and alleviate the excited wrath of the citizens. 

The meeting of this assembly at once proclaimed that all confidence 
between the governor and people was gone, many met in arms, they feared 
the solemn sanctity of their character would not be respected, and they 
depended for protection upon their individual prowess. It was a humilia- 
ting and exciting spectacle for the people. The governor was alarmed 
and fled by night to a British ship, and refused upon invitation of the 
Assembly to return to his palace, or to sign bills presented to him, of the 
utmost importance to the colony, and refused to perform this branch of his 
duty unless the assembly would come and hold their meetings under the 
guns of his ship. In this emergency the governor was declared to have 
abdicated, and the president of the council appointed to act in his place, 
and as it appeared that on his retreat he had liberated the Indian hostages 
without having ratified the treaty, commissioners were appointed to ratify 
in behalf of the colony. His Lordship after the termination of intercourse 
between himself and the Assembly, sailed down the river, attempting to 
enlist citizens against their country, and slaves against their masters. He 
never again resumed his power. From that moment to the present day 
the people of Virginia have governed themselves. 



UEIVERAL INDEX 



OP PLACES AND SUBJECTS, ARRANGED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER. 



A 



Abbeville, 


P 


0. 


233 


Abixgdon, 


P 


0. 


464 


Aborigines of the Dis- 


> 




476 


trict, of Columbia. 


> 




Abstract of school com- 






78 


missioners reports, 


\ 




ACCOMAC 


C. 


H. 


111 


AccoMAC county, 






ib. 


Agriculture, 






99 


Albemaulk county, 






112 


Albemarle Sound, 






36 


Aldie, 


P. 


0. 


210 


Alleghany Mountain, 






30 


Alkxandria City, D. 


c. 




477 


Alleghany county, 






'SOS 


/v lien's Cave, 






448 


Vmelia cr)unty, 






126 


\.:.IELIA 


C. 


H. 


127 


\mendnients to the Fed 


) 




clr 


Con. proposed by Va 


\ 




o-ia 


A-MHER.sT county. 






128, 


Amherst 


a 


H. 


129 


Amissville, 


p. 


0. 


1.58 


Amsterdam 


p. 


0. 


328 


Annalostan or Mason's 
Island, D. C. 


\ 




494 


Anthony's Creek, 


p. 


0. 


352 


Appalachian system, 






31 


Appomattox river, 






36 


Aquia, 


p. 


O. 


285 


.'vrnoldston, 


p. 


V. 


135 


Arnold's Old Place, 


p. 


o. 


171 


Ararat, 


p. 


0. 


260 


Archville, 


p. 


0. 


405 


Augusta county, 






309 


Augusta Springs, 


p. 


0. 


313 


Austinviiie, 


p. 





4G7 


79 









Baoon Castle, 

Back Creek Valley, 

Baileysburg, 

Balcony Falls, 

Ballardsville, 

Ballsville, 

Banister River, 

Barboursville, 

Barboursville, 

Banks, 

Bai-t'^\s' Mills, 

Batesville, 

Bath county, 

Bath, or Berkley springs, 

Bath Iron Works, 

Battleto\vnorBerrysville 

Barksdale, 

Bays, harbors, rivers, ) 
swamps, ) 

Beaverdam, 

Bedford county, 

Beeler s Station, 

Bell Hnven, 
I Bel I Isle, 

Bellona Arsenal, 
iBellona, * 

Belleville, 

Belle Valley, 

Bennett's Store, 

BstUleysville, 

Berger's Store, 

Berkley county, 

Berlington ^IVJills, 

Bethany, 

Bethlehem H Roads, 
[Beverly, 
'Bichley's Mills, 



P. O. 

p. O. 
P. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. V. 
p. V. 

p. o. 
p. o. 

p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 



p. o. 

p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. 0« 

p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. V. 

p. o. 



286 
338 
286 
425 
387 
264 
37 
254 

n n o 
OOO 

104 
390 
113 
319 
402 
425 
338 
184 

So 

181 
129 
405 
111 
229 
152 
195 
465 
425 
185 

lb. 
260 
325 

ib. 
330 
279 
423 
439 



626 



GENERAL INDEX 



Big Cresk, 
Big Sandy River, 
Big Spring, 
Birch River, 
Billsburg, 
Blacksburg, 
Blacksvi'le, 
Blacks &- Whites, 
Black Wahiut, 
Blackwell's Mills, 
Black Water River, 
Bloomsburg, 
Bloomfield, 

Blowing Cave or Pan- 
ther's Gap, 
Blue MoLintuin, 
Blue Stone, 
Blue Rklge, 
Blue Sulphur Springs, 
Boon's Mills, 
Booth's Ferry, 
Botetoart Springs, 
Botetourt county, 
Boswellviiie, 
Bowling Green, 
Bowers, 

Bowman's Mills, 
Boydton, 
Bradleyshurg, 
Brandon ville, 
Brandy wine, 
Brextsville, 
Bruington, 
Bridgeport, 
Brock's Gap, 
Brooke county, 
Brooklyn, 
Brookneal, 
Brownsburg, 
Brown's Cove, 
jSsrNSWiCK county, 

iBuCKINGIiAM 

Bucbannon, see Put- 

tonsburg, 
Buchannon, 
Buckiand, 
Baffalo Forge, 
Buffalo Sofings, 
Bull Cr.-'k, 
Burlington, 
Bull Town, 
Burgess' Store, 



P O 
P. O. 

P. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. o. 
p. o. 



o':( 



; Burning Spring. 
I Burtons viUe, 
IBurk's Garden, 
Bui-ksville, 



p. O. 



p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. o. 
p. V. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. V. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. V. 

p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 

p. o. 

p. T. 

p. o. 
p. o. 

C. H. 



348 
403 
4231 

4011Cabell county, 
390 ' 
252 
185 
172 
37 
185 
211 



C 



43?2 

31 
461 



177 
423 
32S 
327 
221 
142 
279 
433 

Zoo 
221 
42Q 
204 
273 
201 
362 
433 
330 
1S5 
136 
425 

lis 

132 
134 

328 



P. 


o. 


334 


p. 


0. 


273 


P. 


0. 


425 

129 


p. 


0. 


465 


p. 


0. 


357 


p. 


0. 


385 


p. 


0. 


252 



Cabin Point, 
'Cackley's Store, 
iCalahan's 
ICalland's, 
: Calloway's Milli>, 
j Calvin's Tavern, 
i Campbell county, 
Casipbell 
jCapeville, 
I Carlton's Store, 
Cap.oline county, 
Carter's Store, 
Carters ville, 
iCa Ira, 
: Caves ville. 
Cedar Creek, 
Cedar Grrove, 
iCentreton, 
jCentreville, 
jCentreville, 
I Chalk Level, 
iChambless' Store, 
jChancellorsville, 
[Chapman's Mills, 
Charlottesville, 
jCHARLEfc City county, 
jCharles City 
I Charlotte county, 
ICharlestown, 
j Cheat River, 
I Chesapeake Bay, 
'Chesapeake Peninsula, 
jChesnut Grove, 
Chesnut Hill, 
Chesterfield county, 
Chickahominy river 
Ciiilesburg, 
jChovran river, 

jCHRI.STIA-NSBX.fRG, 

Christiansvillc, 
jChuckatuck, 
Churchville, 
City Point, 
Civil list of \''irginia, 
Civil list of U. S. 
Clarksburg. 





o78 


P. 0. 


254 


p. 0. 


461 


p. 0. 


'268 




332 


p. 0. 


286 


p. 0. 


418 


p. o. 


308 


p. o. 


260 


p. o. 


177 


p. o. 


158 




136 


C. H. 


137 


p. 0. 


251 


p. 0. 


201 




142 


p. 0. 


268 


p. V. 


161 


P, 0. 


160 


p. o. 


255 


p. o. 


450 


p. o. 


425 


p. 0. 


185 


p. 0. 


168 




462 


p. 0. 


261 


p. 0. 


131 


p. o. 


282 


p. 0. 


348 


p. T. 


113 




144 


C. H 


. ib. 




145 


p. V. 


367 




38 




ib. 




39 


p. 0. 


260 


P.O. 


254 




151 




38 


p. 0. 


143 




39 


p. V. 


401 


p. 0. 


234 


p. o. 


238 


p. o. 


236 


p. V. 


270 




72 




509 


p. V. 


363 



GENERAL INDEX 



627 



.^^rlvStonV'Store, 


P. 0- 


201 


Davis' Mills, 


P. 


0. 


131 


.GUfton^ 


P. 0. 


439 


Davis' Tavern, 


p. 


o. 


287 


Ciimate of D. of C. 




474 


Dawson. 


P. 


0. 


240 


of Virginia, 




57 


Deatonville, 


P. 


o. 


127 


Clinch river, 




40 


Deerfield, 


P. 


0. 


313 


Olintousville, 


P. 0. 


353 


Declaration of Rights, 






523 


Clover Dale, 


p. o. 


32y 


Dennes' 


P. 


0. 


127 


Coal Ri\-er Marshes, 


p. o. 


336 


Deep Creek, 


P. 


0. 


246 


Coal river. 




40 


District of Columbia, 




471 


Coals mouth, 


p. o. 


378 


Diajjfiond Grove, 


P. 


0. 


132 


Coalsville, 


p. 0. 


153 


Di,^a Mills, 


P. 


0. 


134 


Cold Harbor, oloction precint, 


186 


Diokibson's Store, 


P. 


0. 


131 


Cold Stream AH ill, 


p. 0. 


35 r 


Dillon's Run, 


P. 


0. 


358 


Colleges, 




80 


DiNv/iDDiE county. 






161 


Collin's Settlement, 


P u 


385 


DlNWIDDIE 


C. 


H. 


162 


Columbia, 


p. 0. 


176 


Dismal Swamp, 






41 


Coiumbian College, 


D. C 


503 


Diuguidsville, 


P 





134 


Columbia Grove, 


P. (). 


222 


Dixvilie, 


P. 


0. 


195 


Coman's Well, 


P. 0. 


287 


Doddsville, 


P. 


0. 


172 


Commerce, 




100 


Double Bridge, 


P. 


0. 


222 


Commorceof Alexandria, D. C. 


478 


Dover Mills, 


P. 


0, 


182 


Competition, 


P. V. 


261 


Drapers' Valley. 


P. 


0. 


467 


CoQcord, 


p. 0. 


137 


Dronsville, 


P. 


0. 


168 


Congresisioiial Dis. of V 


1. 


512 


Drt-umond's Town, ) 






111 


Conrad's Store, 


p. 0. 


433 


or Accomack C.H. ) 






Cooper's, 


p. o. 


178 


Dumfries, 


P. 


0. 


274 


Conowaugh, 


p. o. 


196 


Dannsviile, 


P. 


0. 


167 


County courts, 




n 


Dunkard Creek, 


P. 


0. 


390 


Coves villCi 


p. 0. 


114 


Dunkirk, 


P. 


o. 


201 


COVIXGTON, 


p. V. 


308 


Dyer's Old Store, 


p; 


0. 


U4 


Cow Pasture river, 




41 


\Z 








Crab Run, 


p. 


4iT 


Earleysvllle. 


!• 


( I 


1 ; . 


CKifton, 


I' •! 


261 


ilarly Tr.adiri.Hi-s, 






463 


Craig"s Creek, 




40 


Eastville, 


1' 


V 


251 


Craig's Creek, - 


p. 0. 


328 


Edgefield, 


1 ' 


;■) 


172 


Cranberry Plains, 


p. 


34ft' Education. 






77 


Griglarsville, 


p. 0. 


22.5 


Edward s Ferry, 






211 


Gross Keys, 


p. 0. 


433 


Electoral Districts. 






513 


Cuckoo ville, 


p. 0. 


221 


Election Laws, 






515 


Cri-PEPER county, 




1-54 


Eldridge's, 


P 


0. 


134 


CuMBERLAXD COUnty, 




1.59 


Elizabeth river. 






42 


Cumberland 


C. 11. 


161 


Elizabeth Citv c'ty, 






164 


Cumberland mountain, 




34 


Elk Hill, 


P 


0. 


127 


Cs'clopean Towers, 




316 


Eik Marsh, 


P. 


0. 


172 


D 






Elk River, 






42 


Dabney's Mill, 


p. 0. 


221 


Elk Run Church, 


P. 


0. 


172 


Dngo-er's Springs, 


P 0. 


328 


JEnfield, 


P 


0. 


204 


Danielsville, 


p. 0. 


282 


Essex county. 






167 


Davis' Store, 


P. o. 


131 


Estillville, 


P 


V 


441 


Dan River, 




4] 


Evan SHAM, 


P 


V. 


467 


Daxville, 


p. 0. 


261 


Evansville, 


P 


o. 


421 


Darks ville, 


p. 0. 


325 


Everetts ville, 


P 


0. 


114 



628 



GENERAL INDEX 



H. 

V. 

o. 
o. 
o. 

o. 

V. 

o. 

V 

o. 
o. 



o. 
o, 
o, 

T. 

ex 
o. 



F 

Faber's Mills, P. O. 

Face of the countryj 

Fairfax, or Culpeper C 

Fairfax county, 

Fairfax C H 

Fairfield, 

Fair view. 

Falling Bridge, 

Falling Spring Creek, 

Falling Waters, 

Falmouth, 

Farm Tavern, 

Farmville, 

Fancy Hill, 

Farrowsville, 

Fauquier county, 

Fayette county, 

Fayetteville, 

Federal Hill, 

Fife's, 

Fincastle, 

Finney Mills, 

Finney wood, 

Fiscal concerns, 

Fisheries of the Potomac, 

Fishing Creek, P, O. 

J^-lat Creek, P. O. 

Flat Rock, P. O. 

t'lcit Woods, P. O. 

Flint Hill, P. O. 

Flood's, P. O. 

Flowing Spring, P. O. 

Floyd county, 

Fluke's, P, O. 

Fluvanna county, 

Fortsmouth, F O. 

Fotheringay, P, 

Foxville, P. 

Frankfort, P. 

Frankfort, P. 

Franklin, P, 

Franklin count)'-, 

Frederick county, 

Fredericksburg, P, 

French Creek, P. 

Freeman's creek, P. 

Friend's Gro^^p, P. 

Front Royal, P 

Qfein&horo', P. O 

ddns' K Roads, P O. 



240 
17 

158| 
168 
ib. 
426 
3311 
137| 
3201 
3261 
285 1 
2791 
268 i 
426 
172 
171 
334 
172 
361 
182 
328 
127 

wo\ 

101, 
480 
462 
137 
264 
385 
276 
134 
321 
336 
329 
575 
450 
401 
172 
354 
358 
317 
176 
337 
282 
385 
ib 
150 
338 

S39 
276 



Gardner's ^ Roads, 

Garland's Store, 

Gauley Bridge, 

Gauley river. 

Geology and Minera- 
logy of Va. 

Geology and Minera- 
logy of D. of C. 

General description 
of Western Va 

General Court, 

Genito, 

Georetown, D. C. 

" Internal Im- ^ 

provements, ^ 

" Manufactures ) 

and public buildings, ) 

College, 

" ■ Convent, 

Gerardstown, 

German Settlement' 

GermantoM^n, 

Gholsonville, 

GiLF.s county, 

Glady Creek ><j Roads, 

Glenn's, 

Gloucester county, 

Gloucester 

Golansville, 

Goochland county, 

Goochland 

Goodsbridge, 

Goodwynsville, 

Gordonsville. 

Goshen, 

Government and Laws ( 
of Virginia, < 

Government of D= of C 

Grantley's, 

Granville, 

Grape Icland, 

Graves', 

Grave Creek or i 
Elizabeth Town, \ 

Grayson county, 

Grayson C. H or ) 
Greensville, ) 

Great Bridge, 

Green Bank, 

Green Bottom, 

Green Bay, 

Greenbrier countv, 



i\ 0. 


22 


p. o,. 


11 


p. 0. 


^i 



p o. 



4! 



473 

299 

71 

264 
491 

ib 
493 







494 






496 


P. 


0. 


326 


P 


o 


421 


p. 


o 


172 


p 


0. 


132 
346 


p. 


0. 


424 


p 


o 


179 

178 


c 


H 


}79 


p 


0. 


14$ 
179 


c. 


H. 


1B2 


p. 


o. 


153 


p. 


o. 


162 


p 


o. 


255 


p 


0= 


211 
69 

476 


p. 


0. 


158 


p 


V. 


390 


p. 


o 


462 


p 


0. 


225 


p 


0. 


405 
349 


p. 


0. 


349 


p. 


o. 


24<7 


p 





418 


p 


o. 


333 


p 





186 
349 



GENERAL INDEX. 



629 



Greenbrier river, 

(4rp.'hfield, P. O. 
3freen Hill, : P. O. 
jfreen Mount, ' P. O. 

jrreensburg, P. O. 
3reen YaUey, , ,. P. O. 
jrREEXsriLLE county, ^. 

Greenville, P. V. 

Griffinsburg, P. O. 

3riggsby's Store, P. O. 

Griggsville, P. V. 

Giviun's Mills, P. O. 

Guyandotte, P. V. 
Guandotte river, 
0U'3''andotte Little river, 

H 

Hackersville, P. O. 

Hailstone, P. O. 
Halifax county, 

Haleysburg, P. O. 

Half Way House, P. O. 

Hague, P. O. 

Hallford, P. O. 

Hallsboro', P. O. 

Hallsville, P. O, 

Hambau^h's, P. O. 

Hamilton's Store, P. O. 
Hampshiue county, 

Hampstead, P. O. 

Hampton, P. Y. 
Hampton Roads, 

Hanging Rock. P. O. 
Hanover county, 

Hanover C. H. 

Hanoverton, P. O. 

Hansford, P. O, 

Harden's Tavern, P. O. 
Hardy county, 

Haraham, P. O. 

Harper's Ferry, P. V. 

Harrisonburg, P. V. 
Harrison county. 

Harrisville, P. O. 

Harrisville, P.O. 

Harvey's Store, P. O. 

Hatchersville, P. O. 

Hazard Forge, P. O. 

Healing Springs, P. .0 

Healv's P. O. 

Helm's. P. O. 

Henderson's, P O 



42 Heridrick's Store, 
240 Henrico county, 
137 Henry countj^ 
204 Hereford's, 
234 Hermitage, 

322 HiCKSFORD, 

183 Hill Grove, 
314 Hillsboro', 
158 Hockman, 
173 Hoffsville, 
211 Holliday's Cove, 
393iFlolmes' Mills, 
333 Holston river, 

42 Honjesvilie, 

ib. Hope's Mills, 
Horn Town, 
J Hot Springs, 
385j fjowellsville, 
234|Hoysville, 
18-1; Hughesville, 
2221 Hulls Store. 
293 1 Hunter's Hall, 
292 ;Huntersville, ' 
178l^uUonsville, 
i53JHmtsville, 
127, Hydraulic Mills, 

414; ' 

211| I 

355 i Increase of population, 
202 1 Ingram's Mills, 
164 Internal Improvements, 
42j " of Alexan 

358! dria, D. C. 
185: Isle of Wight county, 
186, Isle of Wight 

ist; 

380! '^ 

114; Jackson county, 

351 ! Jacksonville, 

277; Jackson River, 

3g3 Jackson river, 

433! Jackson's, 

SqoJa.mes City county, 

132 James City, 

1(32 James Town, 

15()i James Town (Old,) 

153! James river, 

3511 JeflVies' Store, 

3221 Jefferson county, 

236: Jefferson ville, 

173JJefler£onton. 

329 Jemap, 



P. 


0. 


131 






188 






195 


p. 


0. 


388 


p. 


0. 


268 


p. 


V. 


183 


p 


0. 


261 
211 


p. 


0. 


354 


p. 


0. 


363 


p 


0. 


331 


p. 


0. 


211 

43 


p. 


0. 


414 


p. 


0. 


ib. 


p. 


V. 


HI 


p. 


0. 


322 


p. 


V 


339 


p. 


0. 


211 


p. 


0. 


ib. 


p. 


0. 


417 


p. 


0. 


178 


p 

-» • 


V. 


418 


p. 


0. 


424 


p. 





292 


p 





114 
68 


p. 


0. 


462 

87 

4S0 
196 


C 


H 


ib. 
365 


p. 


V. 


337 


p 


0. 


309 
43 


p. 


0. 


221 
197 


p. 


0. 


225 


p. 


V 


268 

197 

43 


p. 


0. 


252 
367 


p. 


V 


462 


p 


V. 


158 


p 





143 



630 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Jenninfif's Gap, 
Jerusalem, 

Jetersville, 
Johnson's Spring, 
Jonesboro', 

JoXESVILLE, 

Judiciary, 



Kanawha county, 

Kaxam^ia 

Kanawha Saline. 

Kanawha Salt Works, 

Kanawha Great River, 

Kanawha Little River, 

Kempsville, 

Kennedy's, 

Keys vi lie, 

Kilmarnock, 

King George county. 

King Geokge 

King & Q,xteex county. 

King & Queen 

King's Ferry, 

King William countv, 

King William 

Kingwoob, 

]vi;;,^a'e, 

Kite's Mill, 

Kite'.s Mills, 

Kittatinny Mountains, 

jKittatinny Valley, 

L. 
Lancaster county, 
Lancasteii 
Jjanesville, 
Lang-home's Tavern, 
Lane's, 

LawnsVille or ) 
Logan C TI. ) 
Lawkenceville, 
Laws, 

Laurel Hill, 
Laurel Hill, 
Laurel Spring, 
Leading Creek, 
Leatherwood'.s; Store, 
Lebanon Forge, 
Lfban^on; 
Legii'latii re. 
Leed's. 



P. 


0. 


316 


p. 


V. 


279 


p 


0. 


127 


p 


0. 


182 


p. 


0. 


133 


p 


V. 


383 
70 

373 


c. 


H. 


380 


p. 


0. 


ib. 

381 

44 

45 


p. 


V. 


271 


p. 


0. 


133 


p. 


u. 


151 


p. 


0. 


20G 
202 


c. 


H. 


ib. 
200 


c. 


H. 


20] 


p. 


0. 


390 
203 


c. 


H. 


204 


p. 


V. 


421 


p. 


o. 


292 


p. 


o. 


414 


p. 


0. 


433 

34 



C. li. 

p. o. 
p. V. 

p. o. 



205 

lb. 

ib. 

161 

388; 

387^ 
P. V. 133 



Leedsville, 
Lee county, 
Leesbtjrg, 

t,ee's Sulphur Springs, 
Leetown, 
Leesville, 
Lewisburg, 
Lewis countv, 
Lew is port, 
Lewisville, 

Lewiston or Lunen- ) 
burg C. H. \ 

Lewis' Store, 
Lexington, 
Liberty Hall, 
Liberty, 
Liberia, 
Lick Creek, 
Lindsey's ^ Roads, 
Lindsey's Store, 
Lihnviile Creek, 
Literary Fund, 
Little Cacapon, 
Little river, 
Little Plymouth, 
Littleton, 
Locust Creek, 
Locust Dale, 
Locust rirOve, 
Logan county, 
Loinbardy Grove, 
Lloyd's, 
iL.ombavd}'-, 
LoDgwood, 
London Bridge, 
LoreiTO, 

Lorevit^'s Store, 
Lost River, 
Loudoun county, 
Louisa county, 
Louisa 

liOVINGSTON, 

Lowman's, 
Lunatic A-sylnms, 
Lunenburg count}', 
Luney's Creek, ' 
Luray, 
Lyell's Stove, 
Lynchburg, 



3G' 
P. O. 223 j 
P. O. 114! 
P. O. 386 j 
P. O. 195 
P. O. 4261 
P. V. 4391 

70| 
P. O 292 Manassa's Gap, 



p 


0. 


424 

■v381 


p. 


V. 


2n 


p/0. 


372 


p. 


0. 


137 


p. 


V, 


354 

384 


p. 


V. 


363 


p. 


V. 


133 


p 


V. 


222 


p. 


0. 


283 


p. 


T. 


426 


p. 


o. 


261 


p. 


V. 


131 


p. 


o. 


274 


p. 


o. 


354 


p. 


o. 


176 


p. 


0, 


114 


p. 


0. 


433 

77 


p. 


0. 


359 
45 


p. 


V. 


201 


p. 


0. 


287 


p. 


0. 


221 


p. 


o. 


159 


p. 


0. 


255 
386 


p. 


o. 


234 


p. 


0. 


167 


p. 


0. 


127 


p. 


0. 


114 


p. 


o. 


271 


p. 


o. 


167 


p. 


o. 


386 


p. 


o, 


362 
206 
216 


c. 


H. 


221 


p. 


V. 


240 


p. 


0. 


386 

85 
222 


p. 


0. 


362 


p. 


V. 


414 


p. 


o. 


277 


p. 


T. 


137 



M 



p. O. 339 



GENERAL INDEX. 



631 



^^ 



MaiichestKr, I*. \ 

Mannbuj^', P. O. 

Maagohick, P. O. 

r«fADisox county, 
Madison, P. V. 

Madison's Cave^ 
Manufactures, 

Marble Hill, P. O. 

•Mariox, p. V^ 

MarksviUc, P. O. 

Marshall county, 
Maktin?rukg, P V 

Marvsville or > 

Charlotte G. H. ) 
Marysville, P. V. 

Mason's or Analostau \ 

Island, \ 

Ma.son county, 
Ma=isanutten, 
Mutchapieog-o river, 
Mathews county, 
Mathews, C. H. 

Matheu'sville, P. O. 

Mattaponi tiver, 
Mayficld, 
Maysville or I 

Buckingham C.H. \ 
McGaheysville, 
McRaeviile, 
McFarland's 
McWhorter's Mills, 
Tvleadsville, 
Mechanicsvijle, 
Meadow Dale, 
Melierriu Grove, 
Meherrin river, 
Mecklenburg county, 
Meigsville, 

Memoirs of Indian Wars 
Merriniaa's Shop, 
Mersey's, 

MlDDLIiLOURN, 

Middietown or I 

Polsley's Mil'js, \ 
Middletown, P. V. 

Middiebrook, P. Y.. 

Middlesex county, 
Middleburg, P. V. 

Midway, P. O. 

Middlewav or Smith- } n \t 

field, ' S 



153. 
1271 

205; 

223! 
2251 
3ll' 
99 
269 
454 
415 
387 
327 

150 

134 

494 

3 88 
415 

45 
225 
224 
419 

45 

P. V. lyn 

134 



P. 


0. 


433 


P. 


0. 


173 


P. 


0. 


223 


P. 


0. 


386 


P. 


o. 


185 


p. 


0. 


221 


P. 


0. 


354 


p. 


0. 


22b 

45 

229 


p. 


V. 


424 

350 


p. 


0. 


259 


p! 


o. 


131 


p. 


V. 


462 



P. O. 391 



339 
316 
235 
212 
159 

372 



Military organization, &1' 

Mihon,' 

MiUlarm, 

Miller's Tavern, 

Millvilie, 

Miilgrove, 

Millboro', 

Milboro' Spring, 

Mill Creek, 

Millwood, 

Mil ford, 

Minerul VVaters, 

Mitchell's, 

Modostiovvn, 

Monongahela river, 

-Monticello, 

Montague, 

Monroe count}-, 

Montpelier, 

Montville, 

Monroeton, 

Monongahela county, 

Montgomery county, 

Moorfields, 

Morgan county, 

Mocenian's river, 

Morgan ville, 

Morris' Hill, 

Morrisville, 

Moorje's Ordinary, 

Morgantown, 

Mountains, 

Alleghany, 

Blue, 

Blue Ridge, 
Mount Aho, 
Mount Israel, 
Mount Vernon, 
Mount Laurel, 
Mount Giiead, 
Mount Horeb, 
Mount Airy, 
Mouni Meridian, 
Mount Sidney, 
Mountain Cove, 
Mount Lineus, 
Mountain Cove, 
Mount Crawford, 
Mount Hope, 
Mount Jackson, 
Murrell's Shop, 



P. O. 
P O. 
P. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
P o. 
p. V. 



p. o. 



p. V. 

p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. V. 
P o. 
p. V. 



P o. 
p. o. 

p o. 
P. o. 
p. o. 
P. o. 
P o. 
p. V. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
p. o. 
P o. 
p. o. 



S3 
114 
143 
167 
202 
234 
287 
322 
327 
339 
363 
24 
182 
112 
46 
115 
167 
392 
187 
213 
261 
389 
400 
361 
402 
115 
252 
309 
173 
269 
391 
27 
30 
31 
32 
117 
ib. 
169 
185 
213 
241 
262 
317 
318 
336 
390 
403 
433 
450 
ib. 
241 



632 



GENERAL INDEX. 



N 



O 



Nunsemoud river, 






47 


Oak Grove, 


P. 


0. 




Nansemond County, 






236 


Oak Grove, 


P. 


O. 




Narrative of Mrs. Scott, 






437 


Oakland, 


P. 


O. 




Natural Bridge, 






427 


Oakville, 


P. 


V. 


1. 


Natural Tunnel : See ) 


P. 


0, 


442 


Oak Hill, 


P. 


0. 


17b 


Stock creek, ) 


Oatland Mills, 


P. 


O. 


214 


Navy Yard, Washington, 




505 


Occoquan, 


P. 


v.^ 


. 274 


Negro Foot, Election ) 






187 


Occoquan river, 






47, 


Precinct, ) 






O.f^ce Tavern, 


P. 


0, 


127, 


Nelson Count)'-, 






239 


Ohio county, 






404' 


New Glasgow, 


P. 


V. 


129 


Ohio river, 






■ 47 


New York, 


P. 


V. 


117 


Old Church, 


P. 


0. 


187 


New Canton, 


P. 


V. 


13.5 


Old Point Comfort, 


P. 


o. 


164 


New Store, 


P. 


0. 


ib. 


Onancock creek. 


P 


0. 


112 


New London, 


P. 


V. 


141 


Orange county. 






253 


New Baltimore, 


P. 


V. 


173 


Orange 


C. 


H. 


255 


New Found Mills, 


P. 


0. 


187 


Orange Spring, 


P. 


o. 


ib. 


New Town, 


P. 


o. 


201 


Orleans, 


P. 


0. 


173 


Newark, 


P. 


0. 


222 


Orsborn Ford, 


P. 


0. 


442 


New-market or Tye ri- ) 


P. 


0. 


241 


Otter Bridge, 


P. 


o. 


132 


ver warehouse, ^ 


Otter Peaks, 






ib. 


New Kent County, 






242 


Overall's, 


P. 


0. 


415 


New Kent 


C. 


H. 


243 


Oxford, 


P. 


0. 


143 


IS e why's Cross Road, 


P. 


(). 


276 


P 








New Hope, 


P. 


V. 


318 


Paddy Town, 


P. 


V. 


359 


New Castle, 


P. 


V. 


329 


Page county, 






408 


New Town, or Stevens- ) 
burg, ^ 


P. 


V. 


339 


Pain's Cross Roads, 
Painsviile, 


P. 
P. 


0. 

V. 


206 
128 


New river. 


P 


o. 


393 


Palmers's Springs, 






234 


Newbern, 


P. 


V. 


401 


Palatine Hill, 


P. 


o. 


392 


New-market, 


P. 


V. 


450 


Palmyra, 


P. 


V. 


irc 


Nicholas County, 






403 


Pamunkey river, ^^ 






49 


Nicholas C. H. or > 






ib 


Panther's Gap, 


P. 


0. 


432 


Summcr.sville, ^ 






Paris, 


P. 


V. 


173 


Ninevah, 


P. 


o. 


340 


Partlow, 


P. 


o. 


283 


Norfolk County, 






243 


Parham's Store, 


P. 


0. 


287 


Norfolk Borough, 


P. 


T. 


247 


Parisburg, 


P. 


V. 


348 


Northampton County 






249 


Parkersburg, 


P. 


V. 


465 


Northumberland Co. 






251 


Pattonsburg and Buc- 


ip 


V. 


329 


Northumberland 


c. 


H. 


252 


hannan. 


) 






North river mills, 


p. 


O. 


359 


Patrick county. 






256 


North river Meeting ) 


P. 


0. 


ib. 


Pitt'rick, 


p 


0. 


201 


House, ) 


Paytonsburg, 


P. 


o. 


262 


North-west river Bridge 


p. 


0. 


248 


Peaks of Otter, 






132 


North End, 


p. 


0. 


229 


Pedlar's mills. 


P. 


0. 


129 


Nottoway river. 






47 


Pendleton, 


P. 


0. 


442 


Nottoway County, 






252 


Pendleton county. 






415 


Nottoway 


c. 


H. 


ib. 


Penn's, 


p. 


0. 


260 


Noland's Ferry, 


p. 


0. 


214 


Penitentiary sy.stem > 






501 


Nuttsville, 


p. 


0. 


206 


Dis. Columbia, ) 









GENERAL INDEX. 



633 



Penitentiary system ) 






85 


Principal rivers, 






23 


of Virginia, ^ 






Prospect Hill, 


p. 


0. 


171 


Peninsula Chesapeake, 






39 


Prospect, 


p. 


0. 


269 


Pennsborough, 






466 


Pryor's Vale, 


p. 


o. 


129 


Pembroke Springs, 


P. 


0. 


340 


Public Buildings, D. C. 






499 


Petersburg, 


P. 


T. 


162 


Pungoteague, 


p. 


0. 


112 


PerterstoAvn, 


P. 


O. 


393 


Purcell's Store, 


p. 


o. 


215 


Philmont, 


P. 


V. 


214 


Prunty Town, 


p. 


V. 


364 


Physic Spring, 


P. 


o. 


135 


R 








Pig river, 






50 


Racoon Ford, 


p. 


o. 


150 


Pine Grove, 


P. 


0. 


463 


Raines' Tavern, 


p. 


0. 


161 


Pipmg Tree, 


P. 


0. 


205 


Randolph county. 






422 


Pittsylvania County, 






260 


Randolph Macon Col- ) 






234 


Pleasant Hill, 


P. 


0. 


454 


lege, \ 






Pleasant Valley, 


P. 


o. 


171 


Rapid Ann Meeting House, 




225 


Pocotalico, 


P. 


0. 


381 


Rapid Ann river. 






52 


Pocotalico river, 






50 


Rappahannock river, 






ib. 


Pocahontas county, 






417 


Rappahannock Academy 


,p. 


0. 


143 


Poindexter's store, 


P. 


0. 


222 


Rappahannock county 






276 


Point Pleasant. 


P. 


V. 


388 


Ratification of Federal ) 






523 


Political and Moral ) 






66 


Constitution, ) 






condition, ^ 






Rebecca Furnace, 


p. 


(). 


329 


Poplar Run, 


P. 


o. 


255 


Rector Town, 


p. 


V 


173 


Poplar Mount, 


P. 


0. 


183 


Red Hill, 






142 


Port Republic, 


P. 


V. 


434 


Red House, 


p. 


0. 


151 


Population of the Dib- } 






476 


Red Sulphur Springs, 


p 


o. 


393 


trict of Columbia. ^ 






Red Sulphur Seminary, 






396 


'• of Alexan- f 






479 


Reed's, 


p. 


o. 


366 


dria, D. C. S 






Reedy Spring, 


p. 


o. 


142 


of George- > 
town, D. C. S 






494 


Religion, 

Religious and Moral As 


^ 




76 


of Wash- ) 






499 


sociations of Alexan- 


\ 




478 


ington, D. C. ) 






dria, D. C. 


) 






" of Eastern "i 
and Western Vir- > 
ginia. ) 








Republican Grove, 


P. 





185 






66 


Revenue, 






103 








Rexeville, 


P 


o. 


159 


Port Royal, 


P 


V. 


143 


Richardsville, 


P. 


o. 


ib. 


Portsmouth, 


P. 


T. 


248 


RICHMOND CITY, 






188 


Potomac river. 






50 


Richmond county. 






277 


Ptfttiesville, 


P. 


o. 


222 


RiCH3!OND, 


c. 


H. 


ib. 


Powhatan county, 






262 


Right of Suffrage, 






71 


Powel's, 


P. 


0. 


182 


Richieville, 


P 


o. 


164 


Primary Schools, 






77 


Riplev, 


p. 


V 


360 


Preston county, 






420 


Rivanna river, 






52 


Prince Edward county. 




265 


River Bank, 


p. 


o. 


255 


Prince Edward, 


C. 


H. 


269 


Roanoke Bridge, 


p. 


0. 


151 


Princess Ann county, 






271 


Roanoke river. 






53 


Princess Ann, 


c. 


H. 


ib. 


Robertson's Store, 


p. 


0. 


262 


Prince George county 


, 




269 


Rock Creek, 






52 


Prince George, 


c. 


H 


270 


Rocky Mount, 






178 


Prince William county. 




271 


Rock Mills, 


p 


0. 


159 


Principnl Towns, 

80 






23 i 


KocKBDiDGE counfy. 






424 



634 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Rockingham count}', 

ROMNEY, 

Rose Mills, 
Rough Creek Church, 
Rose Hill, 
Ruckmanville, 
Rumford Academy, 
Russell county, 

S 
Saint Tammany's, 
Saint James's Church 
Salem, 
Salem, 
Salem, 

Salt Sulphur Springs, 
Saltville, 
Sandiidj^p's. 
Sandy Mount. 
Sandy river, 
Sandy river church, 
Sappoiiy Creek, 
Sannder.son's, 
Shultz's J^ange, 
Scottsbu rg. 
Scenery and Natural 

Curiositit-?. 
Scottsvilje, 

SCOTTSVILLE, 

ScoTT county. 

Section First, Nat u ml 
and Poliriral, 

Second, Natu- 
ral and Political, 

" Third, iXutnral 
and Political, 

" Fourth, Natu- 
ral and Political, 

Siege of York 
Gloucester, 

Seven Mile F.jrd, 

Sewells. 

Seweli Mountain, 

Shackelford, 

Shady (J rove. 

Shannon Mill, 

Sheetx's Mill, 

Sherrai-d's Stor<\ 

Sheppardslown. 

Shenandoah riv<-r, 

SIIE\.^^;!>OA^! r<!n,!i\ 

Shumsiion. 

81iori PiMnp 







432 


P. 


V. 


360 


p. 


0. 


129 


P. 


0. 


151 


p. 


0. 


384 


p. 


0. 


323 


p. 


o. 


205 
434 


p. 


o. 


235 


p. 


0. 


132 


p. 


V. 


174 


p. 


V. 


330 


p. 


0. 


364 


p. 


o. 


39G 


p. 


o. 


454 


p 


o. 


129 


p. 


o. 


183 
54 


p. 


0. 


269 


1^ 


0. 


1 64 


p. 


(). 


182 


p. 


0. 


466 


p. 


o. 


185 
25 


p. 


Y. 


117 


p. 


V. 


205 
440 



and ) 

s 



p. o. 
1^ o. 
\\ o. 
p. o 
p. o. 
p. o. 

V o. 
p (). 

P V 



I' V. 

p, (> 



18 
19 

ih 

20 

293 

460 
336 
354 
201 
178 
182 
360 

il). 
37 3 

54 
4 45 
364 
195 



Situation, Boundaries. \ 
and Extent of Va. ^ 

Sistersville, 

Skidmore's, 

Slate Mills, 

Smith's Creek, 

Smjthfield, 

Smithsville, 

Smitli Store, 

Smithfield, 

Smyth county, 

Snickersville, 

Snicker's Ferry, 

jSoil of the Di.s. of Col 

jSomerville, 

iSommerton, 

South Q,uay. 

South Hill," 

Soutli Landing, or } 
Brownsville, ^ 

Southampton county, 

Sparta, 

Spanish Grove, 

Si'OTTSYLVANIA COUUty, 
SpOTTSYLA'AMA, 

Spottedville, 

Spring Farm, 

Spring Creek, 

Springfield, 

Spring Garden, 

Stanardsville, 

Stafford Spring?, 

Stat- ro III) county, 

Stafford, 

Staunton, 

iStevensville, 

Steven.sbura", 

Stock Creek. 

Stoney Point Mills, 

Stone" Wall Mills, 

Stoney Point, 

Stoney ('reek AVare- ) 

liouse, S 

Stoney Man, 
Slonev Ci'eeic, or Sliry- } 

ock, ■ S 

Strassbnrg, 
Sturgeon\ ille, 
Sublett"s Tavern, 
Sugar Tree, 
St.1 ffoi.k, 
,->ri;itv «'i'Uiil\' 



17 



P. 


0. 


463 


p. 


0. 


424 


p. 


0. 


276 


p, 


o. 


4a4 

392 


p. 


o. 


265 


p 


o. 


262 


p. 


V, 


197 
452 


p. 


V. 


215 


p. 


o 


340 
471 


p. 


V. 


173 


p. 


V. 


238 


p' 


o 


239 


p. 


0. 


235 


p. 


V 


334 

27,8: 


p. 


o. 


1.4)4, 


p 


0. 


235 

279 


c. 


H. 


284 


p. 


0. 


285 


p. 


o. 


318 


p 


o. 


354 


p. 


V 


360 


p 


o. 


2Gi 


p 


(). 


255 


p. 


c. 


286 

284 


c. 


H. 


.285, 


p. 


V. 


318 


p 


o. 


201 


p 


V, 


1 59 
442 


p 


o. 


161 


p. 


o. 


135 


p. 


o. 


117 



P. O. 287 

4 1 5 

P () 452 



P O. 
1^ V. 
P O 
P. O. 
P V 



450 
133 
265 
262 
238 
286 



GENERAL INDEX. 



635 



SURRV, 


C 


H 


286 1 


Verdiersville, 


P. 


o 


255 


Sussex county, 






ib. 


Va. House of Delegates, 






469 


Sussex, 


c. 


H. 


287 


" Senate, 






470 


Suttonsville, 


p. 


V 


404 


" Election Laws, 






515 


Sweet Springs, 


p. 


0. 


397 










System Appalachian, 






31 


W 








T 








Walkerton, 


P. 





201 


Table of Penitentiary I 
convicts, ^ 






86 


Walker's Church, 
Walnut Branch. 


P. 
P. 


o 
o. 


269 
174 


Tanner's Store. 


p 


o. 


235 


Walnut Grove, 


P. 


o. 


381 


Tan Yard, 


p 


o 


252 


Warm Springs. 


P. 


V. 


323 


Tappahannock, 


p. 


V. 


167 


Warminster, 


P. 


0. 


241 


Taylor's Store, 


p. 


0. 


178 


Warren's Store. 


P 


o 


185 


Taylorsville, 


p. 


0. 


187 


Warrenton, 


P. 


V 


174 


Taylorsville, 


p. 


V. 


260 


Warren. 


P. 


V 


126 


Tazewell county, 






460 


Warren Ferry, 


P 


0. 


135 


Teages' Valley, 


p. 


0. 


381 


Warwick county. 






288 


Templeton, 


p. 


0. 


270 


Warwick 


C. 


H 


ib. 


Tennessee river, 






54 


Wasji.incton, 


P 


V 


276 


Thompson's >^ Roads, 


p. 


0. 


222 


WASHINGTON City 






496 


Thompson's Store, 


sP. 


0. 


■187 


Washington co. D. C 






509 


'Thompsonville, 


P. 


0. 


1.59 


Washington Co Va. 






463 


Thornburg, 


P. 


V. 


284 


Water Fowl of Potomac 






482 


■Thornton's Gap, 


P. 


0. 


1.59 


Watkius' Store, 


'p. 


0. 


262 


9r borough fare, 


P. 


V. 


275 


Waterford, 


P 


V 


216 


Thorn Hill, 


P. 


o. 


255 


Watkinsville, 


P 





182 


Tiber or Goose Creek, 


P 


0. 


132 


Wattsboro', 


P. 


o. 


223 


Todd's Store, 


P 


o. 


284 


Wayland.-^burg, 


P. 





159 


iTlraylorsville, 


P. 


o. 


196 


VVaynsboro. 


P. 


V. 


319 


Travellers' Repose, 


P. 


o. 


419 


Waugh's Ferrv, 


P 


o 


129 


Triadelphia, 


P. 


o. 


405 


Weaver s Mills. 


P. 


o, 


175 


Trout Run, 


P. 


o. 


362 


Wellsburg, 


P. 


V. 


332 


Turner's Store, 


P 


o. 


144 


Western Ford. 


P. 


o. 


424 


Twyman's Store, 


P 


0. 


284 


West Liberty. 


P. 





405 


Tye river, 






56 


Westmoreland c'tv. 






288 


Tye River Mills, 


P 


o. 


211 


Westmoreland 


c 


H 


292 


Tyler county. 






4«>2 


Western V irginia — In- 


I 

^ 






U 








troduction. 




297 


■Union Hall, 


P 


o. 


178 


West Union, 





405 


:Union, 


P. 


V 


215 


Wharton's Mill.^. 


p. 


o 


1.32 


Uniox, 


P. 


V. 


400 


Wheatlev, 


p. 


V 


175 


i Union Mills, 


P 


■O 


176 


Wheeler's Spring, 
WiiKELfNG City, 


p. 


o 


151 


Unted Slates Arsenal, 






506 


p 


T. 


406 


University ot A'irginia. 


P. 


0. 


M7 


Wliite Day, 


p 


o. 


392 


Upperv'ilfp, 


P. 


V. 


2J5 


White HnIK 


p 


V 


340 


Urbanna, 


P. 


T 


236 


White Chimneys. 


p 


o. 


144 


Urquhart's Store, 


P 


o 


:>70 


White Plnin.f. 


p 


o. 


133 


V 








White Oak Grove, 


p 


o. 


132 


Vadensbur?, 


P 


o. 


153 While House, 


p. 


o. 


235 


Variety Mills, 


P. 


o. 


241 White Sulphur Sprini^*. 


p. 


0. 


354 


Veilleboro', 


P 


o 


144! While Post, 


p 


o 


340 


Verdoii 


P 


0. 


1S7 


Whittles' Mills, 


p 


o 


235 



636 



CtENEKAL l.NDEX 



Wkoiiiico Church, 

Wiidurness, 
Williamsburg, 
William's Store, 
Wilsonvillc, 
"Wilmington, 
Winchester, 
Winn's Tavern, 
Wonders of Cave Hill ) 
or RufTner's Cave, ) 
Wood Grove, 
Woodla\vn, 
Wood county. 

WOOPSTOCK. 



P.O. 


252r 


Woodvillc, 




P V 


27r 




128 


Woodpecker's Level, 


P. 0. 


178 


P 0. 


284 


Wright's Mills, 




p. o. 


366 


P T. 


198 


Wyatt's Ferry, 




p. o. 


424 


P. O. 


262 


Wyer's Cave, 






311 


P. O. 


324 


Wyliesburg, 




p. 0. 


151 


P.O. 


176 


Wythe county. 






466 


P. T. 


340 




Y 






P. o. 


176 


Yanceyville, 




p. 0. 


229 




409 


Yancey's Mills, 




P.O. 


126 




Yellow Branch, 




P, O. 


142 ♦ 


P O. 


216 


York county, 






292 


P 


187 


York Town, 




p. V 


293 




465 


York river, 






56 


P V 


452 


Youghioghany 


river. 




57- 



^Fe'30 



FINIS. 



